Carl  Swensson 


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THE  I.IRILARV 

THH  UXI\'I:RSITY 

t)l' c:A1  IIORXIA 

LOS  ANGELES 


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GIFT  OF 


Mr.    Lloyd  E.   Gwith 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Arciiive 

in  2008  with  funding  from 

IVIicrosoft  Corporation 


http://www.archive.org/details/againinswedenskeOOswen 


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OSCAII   II. 
UEI'UODlCEn    AKTEU    A    rHoTOdKAlMI    HY    THK   ((MUT    I'lUtTOOKAr'TER, 
A.  .TONASON.  OOTHENBUKO. 


Gfllfl  *  I]^  *  ^WEDEI^ 


SKETCHES  AND  REMINISCENCES 


FROM    THE    LAND    OF    OUR    FORE-FATHERS.    DURING 

THE  YEAR  OF  THE  GREAT  EXPOSITION  AND 

THE  KING'S  JUBILEE.  1897 


BT 


Rev.  Prof.  CARL  SWENSSON,  Ph.  D. 

President  of  Bethany  College,   LIndsborg,   Kansas 

And  Author  of  '•Homeward;"  -'In  S-weden  ,"  "The  Banner  of  the  Cross;"  -By  the  Fire- 
side;"" Annotations  on  the  Gatatians;"  "Album  of  Jubilee;"'  "Forget-me-not,"  etc. 


PUBLISHED    BY 

SWEDISH   BOOK  COMPANY 

CHICAGO 


Enterc<l  according  to  Act  ol  Congress.  In  ti.e  year  iSgB. 

by  Carl  Swensson. 
In  the  Ofi&ce  o(  the  Librarian  of  (  ongreM.  1.1  WMhlngtoB. 


^^ 


CONTENTS. 

Chapter.                                                                                      Page. 
To  the  Reader 7 

To  Sweden 8 

I.     Off  for  Sweden 9 

II.     A  Day  at  Niagara 15 

III.  In  the  Shadow  of  a  Great  Hero 20 

IV.  On  Board  the  "Mongolian" 23 

V.     By  Whom  Were  We  Discovered 26 

VI.     What  I  Heard  on  the  Ocean 69 

VII.     From  Malmo  to  Stockholm 103 

VIII.     The  Swedish-American  Singers 109 

IX.     The  Great   Exposition 125 

X.     The  Opening  Day  and  "Old  Stockholm" 147 

XI.     Industrial  Hall  and  Machinery  Hall 152 

XII.     The  Art  Exhibit 156 

XIII.  To  Norrland  in  the  Company  of  the  Journalists 166 

XIV.  The  Meeting  of  the  Diocese  of  Hernosand 195 

XV.     In  a  Buggy  to  Wiksjo,  and  a  Paper  on  "Church  Con- 
ditions in  Sweden" 230 

XVI.  The  King  of  Siam  in  Norrland 298 

XVII.  To  Beautiful  Nordingra 311 

XVIII.  In  Splendid  and  Prosperous  Sundsvall 320 

XIX.  With  Some  Newspaper  Men  of  Norrland 329 

XX.     Sabra  and  Hernosand,    an    Interview  with  General 

Toll 337 

XXI.    To  Ancient  Visby 354 

XXII.     With  the  Bishop  and  Clergymen  of  Gothland 362 


1415S21 


Chapter.  Page. 

XXIII.  At  Fridhem  and  in  Visby 371 

XXIV.  To  Dalecarlia 376 

XXV.     "The  Eye  of  Dalecarlia" 387 

XXVI.     From  Orsa  to  Rattvik 394 

XXVII.     A  Sunday  in  Leksand 399 

XXVIII.    A  Trip  to  FaJun,  Gefle  and  Elfkarleby 407 

XXIX.     Two  Beautiful  Rivers  in  Norrland 412 

XXX.     Prince  Charles  and  Princess  Ingeborg 427 

XXXI.  "Skansen,"  or  "the  Redoubt,"  and  the  Northern  Eth- 
nographic Museum 431 

XXXII.     The  Royal  Palace  and  Armory 440 

XXXIII.  The  Riddarholm  Church  and  Other  Churches 449 

XXXIV.  A   Day  at  Gripsholm 459 

XXXV.    Upsala,  Danmark,  and  Old  Upsala 465 

XXXVI.     A  Day  in  Ancient  Lund 483 

XXXVII.  Norrkoping,  Linkoping,  and  the  Battle  of  Stangebro.  520 

XXXVIII.  At  the  Lannaskede  Springs,  and   With  the  Crippled 

Dr.  Floren 527 

XXXIX.  Eighty  Miles  by  Team  in  Smaland  and  Vestergotland  531 

XL.     Svenljunga,  Boras  and  Herrljunga 560 

XLI.     A  Sunday  in  Hjarpas 563 

XLII.  John  Ericsson's  Monument  in  Filipstad,  Vermland.  569 

XLIII.     A  Day  in  Beautiful  Carlstad 585 

XLIV.     Trollhattan    595 

XLV.     Visiting  the  King 604 

XLVI.     A  Few  Hours  in  Gothenburg 609 

XLVII.     King  Oscar's  Jubilee 615 

XLVIII.     Home  Again 629 


TO  THE  READER. 

Did  you  ever  walk  in  pleasant  paths,  selecting  from  along 
the  wayside  many  pretty  flowers,  appealing  to  your  taste  and 
fancy,  to  be  treasured  as  a  remembrance  of  your  day  of  visit 
and  rest?  Did  you  ever  ask,  as  you  looked  upon  a  beautiful,  in- 
spiring landscape  beneath  your  feet:  to  whom  does  it  belong  and 
who  lives  there?  If  you  did,  you  understand  fully  the  origin 
and  aim  of  the  following  pages. 

I  would  give  you,  with  your  permission,  a  hand-full  of  "For- 
get-me-nots" and  Northern  "Linneas"  from  that  land  of  son^g 
and  romance,  where  my  fathers  once  lived  and  where  I  have 
wandered  about  so  recently ;  and  as  you  look  out  over  the  lovely 
valleys  and  rugged  mountains,  the  placid  lakes  and  roaring  rivers 
of  that  country,  where  the  "Sagas"  found  their  lovely  subjects 
and  the  "run"-stones  arose  to  bear  eloquent  testimony  to  the 
glorious  past,  I  would  try  to  tell  you  something  about  the  people 
living  there  now,  about  their  illustrious  King,  and  about  them- 
selves, the  happy  and  contented  citizens  of  the  freest  monarchy 
that  history  has  ever  recorded. 

That  is  all.  It  must  be  done  in  a  hurry,  or  the  flowers  might 
wither.  It  must  be  done  briefly,  or  you  might  tire  of  it  in  our 
busy,  American  age  of  incessant  toil  and  excitement.  Give  me, 
then,  your  kind  permission,  and  we  will  hasten  on  to  the  task 
itself,  so  charming  to  the  one  whose  good  fortune  it  is  now  to 
greet  you  with  a  sincere  welcome  to  a  few  moments  in  Sweden 
and  of  Sweden. 

Bethany  College,  the  day  of  the  King's  Jubilee,  Sept.  i8,  1897. 

Carl  Swensson. 


TO  SWEDEN, 

Sweden,  the  noble,  liberty-loving,  lofty-minded,  generous  and 
loving  mother  of  two  millions  of  Swedish-Americans  in  the 
United  States, — proud  and  faithful  children,  who  will  never  for- 
get their  brave  and  illustrious  ancestry,  and  who  are  returning 
time  and  again  with  growing  gratitude  and  veneration  to  visit 
in  that  far-away,  fascinating  land,  where  summer  makes  one  long, 
nightless  day  of  untold  charms,  and  winter  seems  but  a  portal 
to  heavenly  mansions  among  the  festive,  indescribable  illumina- 
tions of  the  northern  sky, — to  Sweden,  the  ancient  cradle  of 
men  and  women  who  loved  liberty,  truth  and  valor  more  than 
life,  and  the  present  home  of  the  most  beloved  monarch  and  the 
most  satisfied  people  on  the  globe,  is  this  volume  humbly  and 
gratefully  inscribed  by  the  Author. 


AGAIN  IN  SWEDEN. 


CHAPTER  I. 
Off  For  Sweden. 


The  ven-  thought  is  an  inspiration.  It  makes  my  heart 
bound  with' the  vigor  of  youth.  Sleep  becomes  a  dream  agam, 
and  the  waking  hours  a  happy  trance. 

But  as  yet  I  am  only  in  little,  Swedish  Lindsborg,  m  far  away 

Kansas  is  a  revelation.  So  good  and  so  bad,  all  at  once.  An 
engine  of  enthusiasm,  unbounded  hopes  and  possibilities,  rushing 
on  madlv  almost  at  times,  with  prophetic  public  opinion  at  the 
throttle  past  successes  shoveling  in  the  coal,  and  the  brakemen 
all  asleep  in  neighboring  states:  a  dilapidated  cottonwood  tree 
on  the  high,  stormswept  hills  of  the  Smoky,  with  falling  leaves, 
decaving  trunk,  and  a  faraway,  sad  and  busted  look  in  general 

One  dav  distancing  all  competitors  with  the  ease  of  a  tullv 
developed  natural  and  acquired  superiority,  another  the  conscious 
and  deserving  object  of  the  jeers  of  everybody,  yes,  even  of  the 
smiling,  noddling,  un-killable  sunflower  bv  the  wayside 

Such  is  Kansas.  The  admiration  of  her  friends  belied  by 
her  own  citizens:  beloved  of  God.  feared  by  the  Devil;  and 
%vithal  the  most  interesting  child  of  the  whole  family. 

From  a  wilderness  she  becomes  the  pleasant  and  happy 
home  of  a  million  and  a  half  of  intelligent,  law-abiding  citizens 
in  less  than  one  generation. 

She  plants  over  9.000  school-houses,  nearly  3.000  churches  and 
manv  far-famed  colleges  and  universities,-and  no  saloons.-m 
her  'charming  vallevs  and  upon  her  fertile  praines,  before  her 
first  born  white  boy  has  had  time  to  become  even  the  youngest 
of  grandfathers. 

9 


She  is  bright  enough  to  hoodwink  cautious  John  Bull  into 
the  most  impossible  financial  adventures,  accompanied  in  his 
Kansas  losses  by  the  distanced  and  gloomy  sagacity  of  New  Eng- 
land and  New  York,  weeping  late  but  sincere  tears  at  the  ease  of 
their  destruction. 

She  is  honest  enough  to  pay  oflf  $105,000,000  of  her  mort- 
gages during  seven  years  of  hard  times,  hot  winds,  Hades-politics 
and  a  diminished  per  capita  allowance  of  both  dollars  and  sense. 

After  producing  all  at  once  a  Populist  Governor,  an  intellect- 
ually unapproached  Senate  and  House,  and  sending  an  ex-rebel 
officer  to  represent  her  in  the  most  dignified  legislative  hall  of 
the  Xation,  an  avowed  Socialist  and  infidel  on  her  own  Supreme 
bench  for  six  years,  blood-bought  Kansas,  hallowed  by  the  mem- 
ory of  thousands  of  martyrs  to  the  cause  of  everybody's  liberty, 
turns  coolly  and  intelligently  around  and  faces  the  coming  day 
once  more,  willing  to  feed  the  world  by  sixty  millions  of  bushels 
of  excellent  wheat,  selling  at  McKinley  and  general  prosperity 
prices,  and  156,000,000  bushels  of  corn,  and  this  is  not  a  corn 
year  at  all,  making  juicy  and  high  priced  beef  for  Queen  Victoria 
and  Kaiser  Wilhelm  with  their  hungry  subjects,  while  the  Smoky 
Hill,  Arkansas  and  Big  Blue  stockmen  and  farmers  smilingly 
pocket  the  big  profits. 

Over  nearly  9,000  miles  of  railroads  within  her  borders  she 
hauls  this  year  $177,904,888  worth  of  wheat,  corn,  live  stock  and 
miscellaneous  produce  to  the  markets  of  the  Nation  and  of  the 
world,  while  her  mortgage  indebtedness  is  only  $55,000,000.  leav- 
ing a  balance  on  the  right  side  of  the  ledger  of  $122,904,888.  to 
be  enjoyed  by  her  happy  people. 

The  Kansas  hen  stands  prominently  to  the  front  among  the 
great  patriots  of  the  day.  having  contributed  nearly  $4,000,000 
to  the  "Saving  of  our  Country"  during  one  year,  a  sum  sufficient 
to  pay  all  of  the  state  and  city  taxes  of  our  state,  and  yet  leaving 
a  handsome  balance;  yes,  a  sum  fully  one  fourth  greater  than 
the  total  paid  to  our  teachers  and  for  school  supervision.  The 
Kansas  hen  never  discusses  politics,  nor  plots  in  the  dark,  nor 
makes  "slates,"  nor  whittles  dry  goods  boxes.  She  is  an  illus- 
trious example  of  what  minding  one's  own  business  will  do  for 
an  intelligent,  careful  and  business-like  man  in  the  Sunflower 
State. 

Kansas  is  rich  in  wind,  wisdom  and  gas,  and  produces 
vast    quantities    of   coal,    kerosene     and     lead,    with     excellent 

10 


stucco  enough  to  build  a  World's  Fair  at  every  county  seat. 
Her  supply  of  a  most  charming,  varied  and  healthful  climate 
has  never  been  questioned  even  by  the  Colonel  in  kilted  uniform 
orthe  great  and  wonderful  sockless  statesman  of  Medicuie  Lodge. 
Yes  1  am  as  yet  onlv  in  Kansas,  but  a  true  Kansan  loves  his 
.tate  and  believes  in  its  future.  Many  of  her  sons  have  gone 
East,  only  to  return  to  fair  Kansas  agam  m  a  short  tune.^  ihere 
is  something  fascinating,  almost  intoxicating  in  the  West.  A 
former  Kansan  may  sit  in  his  New  York  office  and  long  for  a 
dav  on  the  plains.  Once  a  Kansan  always  a  Kansan.  ^^lajor 
Pond  wrote  me  a  few  days  ago:  "I  long  for  a  Kansas  breeze. 
To  me  Kansas  is  the  best  spot  on  earth." 

But  we  are  going  to  Sweden,  not  to  Kansas,  and  so  good-bye 
to  its  fair,  blue  heaven,  its  unbounded  hopes  and— yes,  good-bye. 
Off  for  Sweden ! 

The  words  are  short  and  simple  and  yet  how  inspiring  to 
every  Swedish-American  heart.  The  Swedes  are  happy  and 
contented  in  any  clime,  but  yet  they  often  experience  an  intense 
longing  to  revisit  the  fatherland,  the  land  of  their  nativity. 

"Anyone  who  ever  saw  that  wonderland 
Will  wish  to  see  it  again  and  again." 

The  number  of  Swedish-Americans  who  visit  Sweden  in- 
creases right  along,  year  by  year.  Had  the  railroads  and 
steamship  companies  showed  the  usual  and  expected  liberality. 
the  number  of  such  visitors  this  Summer  would  have  been 
very  large.  All  hopes  along  those  lines  were  disappointed,  and 
the' tourist  to  King  Oscar's  land  found  it  necessary  to  pay  the 
usual  prices  for  his  accommodations. 

Thousands  traveled  northward,  bound  to  see  the  Exposition 
at  Stockholm  and  if  possible  be  present  at  the  King's  Jubilee^ 
Three  great  midsummer  excursions  left  Chicago  for  the  land  of 
the  :^Iidnight-Sun  and  many  others  followed  later,  and  are  yet 
following  at  this  writing. 

Our  American  life  demands  rest  occasionally.  This  is  espe- 
cially true  in  reference  to  all  brain  workers,  all  professional  and 
business  men.  If  the  commands  of  weary  nature  are  not  heeded, 
premature  decay  of  power,  and  even  death,  will  be  the  result. 
The  men  of  America  die  young;  the  women  live  long.  The  rea- 
son is  patent  to  every  one.  Our  men  are  a  busy,  restless,  ner- 
vous set  of  beings,  always  under  a  strain  or  on  a  run.     The 

II 


American  woman  is  the  happiest  being  God  ever  made,  as  well 
as  the  most  lovely  and  beautiful.  She  is  Queen  of  all  she  sur- 
veys, and  Queen  Victoria's  recent  jubilee  goes  a  great  way  to 
prove  my  observation  as  to  happy  longevity. 

It  is  difificult  to  find  rest  in  America.  The  telegraph,  the 
daily  paper,  the  mails  will  always  bother  and  disturb.  With  a 
few  thousand  miles  of  ocean  between  you  and  your  place  of  busi- 
ness, the  situation  is  essentially  changed.  Then  rest  and  recu- 
peration become  possible.  Rest  then,  hard  working  American, 
rest  before  it  will  be  too  late 

Let  me  add  one  more  thing.  It  does  anyone  good  to  visit 
the  old  world  just  to  have  some  of  his  prejudices  removed.  We 
are  prone  to  over-estimate  everything  .Vmerican,  our  resources, 
our  possibilities,  our  established  standing.  Not  only  on  Fourth- 
of-July  do  we  egotistically  boast  of  our  unsurpassed  greatness 
and  unconquerable  power,  at  the  same  time  speaking  with  con- 
tempt of  other  lands  and  other  nations.  This  is  a  natural  result 
of  our  peculiar  and  commanding  position  on  the  Xorth  Ameri- 
can Continent,  our  wonderful  resources  and  our  great  achieve- 
ments. Yet,  wc  are  only  a  babe  in  the  family  of  nations,  a  very 
healthy  and  flourishing  child,  it  is  true,  but  not  fullgrown  as  yet, 
by  any  means. 

In  Europe  we  gain  the  opportunity  for  comparison.  Such 
opportunities  increase  the  reliability  of  our  judgment.  An  un- 
reliable judgment  is  only  an  opinion,  of  nuich  or  no  value  as 
the  case  may  chance  to  be.  A  keen,  true  judgment,  worthy  to  be 
depended  upon,  is  the  highest  exponent  of  intelligent  manhood 
and  citizenship. 

The  dangers  are  small.  The  large  majority  of  Americans 
return  to  our  shores  with  increased  patriotism  and  enthusiasm 
for  dear,  old  Uncle  Sam.  Our  advantages  are  so  superior,  our 
life  so  full  of  the  vigor  of  youthful  hope,  that  the  deep  ruts  of 
Europe  fail  to  look  inviting.  Some  millionaires  and  their  wives 
and  daughters  may  be  led  astray  by  their  love  of  a  titled  aristoc- 
racy and  a  luxurious  ease,  but  to  the  average  .\merican  a  trip 
across  the  great  waters  will  not  prove  harmful,  but  beneficial. 

.■\nd  yet  the  instability  of  every  condition  in  the  United  States 
is  something  to  be  greatly  deplored.  I  thought  of  it  frequently 
while  in  Canada  and  England.  A  reign  of  sixty  years  is  so 
vastly  different  from  one  of  four  or  eight.  We  are  made  to  suf- 
fer in  various  ways  by  our  frequent  and  unexpected  changes. 

12 


Many  conditions  should  be  taken  out  of  party  politics  and  be 
cared  for  in  some  other  manner.  We  need  more  stability,  more 
reliability  in  state  and  church  alike. 

Some  of  our  ministers  therefore  fall  in  love  with  the  dignified, 
trusty  situation  of  church  matters  in  little  Sweden.  No  one  can 
fail  to  see  and  feel  that  charm.  I  say,  how^ever:  let  them  go. 
They  will  make  room  for  more  and  as  worthy  young  men  in 
America,  from  among  our  own  ranks.  Anyone,  German  or 
Swede,  staying  here,  because  he  feels  he  must,  or  that  he  ought 
to,  should  be  made  to  understand,  that  this  country  can  get  along 
splendidly  without  him.     God  bless  his  return! 

All  aboard! 

The  popular  Missouri  Pacific  carried  our  party  to  Kansas 
City.  It  was  a  pleasant  day  across  the  prairies  of  Kansas.  From 
the  great  Missouri  City,  which  ought  to  belong  to  Kansas,  we 
took  "the  greatest  Railroad  in  the  World,"  the  Sante.Fe,  a  mag- 
nificent system,  directed  by  a  fine  set  of  officials.  The  next 
morning  found  us  in  Chicago,  bright  and  early.  No  wonder. 
We  had  traveled  on  the  shortest  route  between  the  two  cities. 

What  a  terrible  ado,  until  you  have  all  of  the  tickets  and 
checks  and  other  documents  for  an  extended  European  tour.  It 
seems  that  steamship  companies  in  general  are  a  little  slow  and 
crowded  about  their  work.  They  certainly  are  as  compared  with 
our  railroad  companies. 

In  Chicago  I  saw  with  much  interest  the  interior  of  one  of 
our  great,  modern  publishing  houses  and  book  makers.  If  the 
best  informed  man  of  two  hundred  years  ago  would  walk  into 
one  of  these  mammoth  establishments,  his  brain  would  whirl.  It 
would  be  impossible  for  him  to  realize  what  wonderful  strides 
omvard  the  art  of  printing  has  made.  Formerly,  yes,  only  a  few 
years  ago,  composition  by  hand,  no  electrotyping,  no  rapid  press- 
work.  Now  composition  and  stereotyping  by  the  same  machine, 
and  presswork  so  wonderfully  correct  and  fast,  that  a  ''layman" 
is  simply  filled  with  unspeakable  amazement.  The  same  perfec- 
tion is  met  with  in  illustrating  and  binding.  These  everyday 
occurrences  are  the  miracles  of  the  Nineteenth  Century.  What 
next?  Some  day  the  orator  and  author  will  probably  speak  and 
write  into  a  mechanism  that  will  produce  the  completed  magazine 
or  book  without  the  help  of  any  artisan.  Then  humanity  wall 
work  less  and  enjoy  more  and  be  better  paid  for  its  labor  than 
ever  before.     While  machines  are  enabling  one  man  to  perform 

13 


the  work  of  twci-t}-  a  few  years  ago,  wages  are  on  the  increase. 
Work  is  worth  more  in  money  in  our  day  than  in  the  times  of 
our  fathers. 

"Grand  Trunk  for  Niagara  Falls  and  New  York."  That  w^as 
our  train.  The  trip  was  a  pleasant  one  to  the  Falls.  I  cannot 
get  over  how  impressed  I  was  by  the  exemplary  courtesy  of  the 
officials  of  this  road  in  Chicago  and  Montreal  alike.  Were  this 
a  kingdom  and  I  the  king,  they  would  surely  be  decorated  at 
once. 

At  Port  Huron  we  passed  through  the  famous  St.  Clair  tun- 
nel, in  some  respects  the  most  remarkable  in  the  world.  It  is 
appropriately  called  "the  link  that  binds  two  great  nations,"  and 
over  it  flow  all  the  waters  of  the  Great  Lakes,  which  later  tumble 
over  the  cliff  at  Niagara  Falls  and  by  and  by  reach  the  Atlantic 
in  that  most  charming  and  majestic  of  rivers,  the  St.  Lawrence. 

Let  me  tell  you  something  about  this  tunnel.  The  length  of 
the  tunnel  proper  is  6,025  ^^et,  and  of  the  open  portals  or  ap- 
proaches 5,603  feet  additional,  or  more  than  two  miles  altogether, 
making  it  the  longest  submarine  tunnel  in  the  world.  The  tun- 
nel is  a  continuous  iron  tube,  nineteen  feet,  ten  inches  in  diame- 
ter, put  together  in  sections  as  the  work  progressed,  firmly  bolted 
everywhere,  the  total  weight  of  iron  aggregating  about  56,000,000 
pounds.  The  work  was  commenced  in  September,  1888.  and  the 
tunnel  was  opened  for  freight  traffic  in  October.  1891.  a  little 
more  than  three  years  from  the  beginning  of  the  work.  Passen- 
gers used  the  tunnel  for  the  first  time  on  December  7.  1891. 

The  rails  of  the  track  rest  upon  crosstics.  only  six  inches 
apart,  laid  on  stringers,  which  in  turn  rest  upon  a  bed  of  brick 
and  concrete,  filling  the  bottom  of  the  tube. 

The  engines  used  to  pull  the  trains  through  the  tunnel  and 
up  the  steep  grade  aher  emerging,  are  the  largest  in  the  world, 
having  ten  driving  wheels  and  weighing  nearly  200.000  pounds. 
The  boilers  are  74  inches  in  diameter,  the  fireboxes  132 J  inches 
long  and  42I  inches  wide,  and  the  cylinders  arc  22  inches  in 
diameter,  with  28-inch  stroke.  These  monster  engines  were  built 
especially  for  work  in  this  tunnel  by  the  Baldwins  of  Philadel- 
phia. 

The  cost  of  this  great  "dark  hole"  that  we  passed  through  is 
only  $2,700,000.  a  sum  that  seems  incredibly  small  to  me,  com- 
pared with  the  magnitude  of  the  task  undertaken  and  the  results 
attained.     The  capacity  of  the  tunnel  is  4,000  cars  per  day,  and 

14 


the  money  expended  in  its  construction  will  yield  a  quick  and 

profitable  return. 

Now  we  are  in  Canada,  rushing  along  at  a  high  rate  of  speed, 
until  we  arrive  at  the  greatest  place  in  America,  m  one  sense, 
Niagara  Falls. 


CHAPTER  II. 
A   Day  at   Niagara  Falls. 

No  American  ought  to  visit  Europe  as  a  tourist  until  he  has 
seen  some  of  the  wonders  of  his  own  country.     It  has  been  my 
good  fortune  to  travel  about  somewhat  in  the  wide  domain  of 
Uncle  Sam,  and  vet  I  feel  instinctively,  how  litde  have  I  not  seen 
of  our  own  varied  and  interesting  sceneries  and  natural  wonders. 
How  charming  is  not  a  Summer  drive  over  the  elevated  boule- 
vard of  Duluth,  where  cool  breezes  of  Lake  Superior  make  you 
forget  the  oppressive  heat  of  the  great  twin  cities  of  St  Paul  and 
Minneapolis.     In  winter  a  visit  to  Galveston  and  a    boat  ride 
on  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  are  certainly  very  charming.     It  is  grand 
to  behold  majestic  Mt.  Rainer  from  the  deck  of  an  elegant,  fleet- 
footed  steamer  on  the  placid  waters  of  Puget  Sound,  and  the 
great  plains  and  mountain  ranges  are  certainly  seen  in  a  new 
and  captivating  light  from  the  elevated  and  commanding  summit 
of  Pike's  Peak.     One  never  forgets  the  awe-inspiring  and  sub- 
lime impressions  received  as  the  limited  express  dashes  through 
the  unrivaled  Roval  Gorge,  with  towering    and    perpendicular 
mountain  sides  darkening  the  brightness  of  even  the  Colorado 
summer-dav.     Have  you  ever  entered  the  Golden  Gate  from    he 
gigantic  Pacific  just  as  the  sun  sent  his  morning  greeting  to   he 
patriotic  citizens  of  San  Francisco,  or  have  you  ^org^tten  the 
dust  of  the  great  desert  in  the  cooling  embrace  of  the  Great  Salt 
Lake,  where  unseen  hands  seem  to  prevent  your  sinking  below 
the  surface  of  the  brinv,  mirror-like  water?     You  have  steamed 
down  the  magnificent  Columbia  from  Portland  to  Astona^and 
up  the  picturesque  Mississippi  from  Rock  Island  to  St.  Paul, 


until  you  wondered  if  the  world-renowned  Rhine  could  excel 
what  you  had  already  seen?  Probably  the  soothing  breezes, 
the  quieting  repose  of  Minnetonka  and  Chautauqua  are  not  un- 
known to  you,  and  you  have  undoubtedly  been  carried  gently  or 
violently  around  the  fascinating  curves  of  the  Alleghanies  or  over 
the  verdant  ranges  of  the  Rockies  in  Xew  ^^lexico.  The  beauties 
of  the  Hudson,  so  charming,  so  everlastingly  new  and  interesting, 
the  pleasure  of  a  coast  trip  from  New  York  to  New  England, 
during  a  moon-lit  summer  night;  the  fascinating  sceneries  of 
the  Potomac,  of  the  Capitol ;  of  ^Mt.  A'crnon ;  of  the  valleys  in 
Pennsylvania  and  New  York;  of  the  pineries  of  the  North  and 
of  the  South;  of  the  opcnheartcd  prairies  of  the  West;  the  digni- 
fied repose  of  Philadelphia  and  St.  Louis;  the  unchecked  hurry 
of  Chicago;  the  binoclcd  wisdom  of  Boston,  and  the  European 
airs  of  New  York;  you  may  have  seen  it  all,  as  I  have  done,  and 
yet  exclaim  almost  in  agony :  wkat  do  I  really  know  of  this  vast 
expanse,  called  the  United  States  of  America?  Our  territory  is 
so  immense;  our  sceneries  so  varied;  our  distances  so  great,  that 
we  Americans  feel  proud  and  humble  at  the  same  time;  proud 
of  our  possessions,  humble  by  our  experiences. 

Niagara  is  worthy  of  its  great  reputation.  There  is  only  one 
Niagara,  and  we  can  always  point  to  it  with  righteous  and  justi- 
fiable pride.  There  were  Europeans  in  our  party;  artists,  musi- 
cians, professional  men.  You  ought  to  have  seen  their  sincere 
admiration  and  heard  their  eloquent  exclamations  about  our 
great  American  waterfall. 

There  is  much  to  see  at  Niagara.  We  took  carriages  and 
received  very  fair  treatment  both  as  to  guides  and  prices.  One 
ought  to  see  the  Cantilever  P>ri(lge,  Railway  Suspension  Bridge, 
Rapids  View,  Whirlpool  Rapids  and  the  Whirlpool.  Then  the 
Prospect  Park,  Inclined  Railway,  American  Falls,  Goat  Island, 
Cave  of  the  Winds,  Avery's  Rock,  and  the  American  Rapids. 
Also  the  Museum,  Bath  Island.  Three  Sister  Islands,  Luna  Is- 
land, Terrapin  Rock,  American  Rapids,  and  the  Horseshoe  Falls. 
It  can  be  done  very  conveniently  in  a  few  hours. 

On  the  Canadian  side  we  had  most  excellent  views  of  all  of 
the  Falls. 

What  is  the  chief  characteristic  of  Niagara,  one's  first  and 
most  lasting  impression?  \'astncss.  majesty.  There  is  so  much 
of  it:  Greatness  un-measured,  majesty  unsurpassed.  No  de- 
scription in  words  is  adequate.     Immortal  Charles  Dickens  has 

16 


portrayed  Niagara  in  his  American  notes.     Kind  reader,  listen 
to  his  word-pictures  for  a  moment: — 

He  says:  "At  length  we  alighted;  and  then  for  the  first 
time,  I  heard  the  mighty  rush  of  water,  and  felt  the  ground 
tremble  underneath  my  feet.  The  bank  is  very  steep,  and  was 
slippery  with  rain  and  half-melted  ice.  I  hardly  know  how  I 
got  down,  but  I  was  soon  at  the  bottom,  and  climbing,  with 
two  English  officers  w^ho  were  crossing  and  joined  me,  over 
some  broken  rocks,  deafened  by  the  noise,  half  blinded  by  the 
spray,  and  wet  to  the  skin.  We  were  at  the  foot  of  the  American 
Fall.  I  could  see  an  immense  torrent  of  water  tearing  head- 
long down  from  some  great  height,  but  had  no  idea  of  shape, 
or  situation,  or  anything  but  vague  immensity.  When  we  were 
seated  in  the  little  ferry-boat,  and  were  crossing  the  swollen 
river  immediately  before  the  cataracts,  I  began  to  feel  what  it 
was;  but  I  was  in  a  manner  stunned,  and  unable  to  comprehend 
the  vastness  of  the  scene.  It  was  not  until  I  came  on  Table 
Rock,  and  looked — great  Heaven,  on  what  a  fall  of  bright-green 
water! — that  it  came  upon  me  in  its  full  might  and  majesty. 
Then,  when  I  felt  how  near  to  my  Creator  I  was  standing,  the 
first  effect,  and  the  enduring  one — instant  and  lasting — of  the 
tremendous  spectacle,  was  Peace.  Peace  of  mind,  tranquility, 
calm  recollections  of  the  dead,  great  thoughts  of  eternal  rest  and 
happiness:  nothing  of  gloom  or  terror.  Niagara  was  at  once 
stamped  upon  my  heart,  an  image  of  beauty:  to  remain  there 
changeless  and  indelible,  until  its  pulses  cease  to  beat  forever. 
Oh,  how  the  strife  and  trouble  of  daily  life  receded  from  my 
view,  and  lessened  in  the  distance,  during  the  ten  memorable 
days  we  passed  on  that  enchanted  ground!  What  voices  spoke 
from  out  the  thundering  water;  what  faces,  faded  from  the  earth 
looked  out  upon  me  from  its  gleaming  depths;  what  Heavenly 
promise  glistened  in  those  angels'  tears,  the  drops  of  many  hues, 
that  showered  around,  and  twined  themselves  about  the  gor- 
geous arches  which  the  changing  rainbows  made!  *  *  *  *  To 
wander  to  and  fro  all  day,  and  see  the  cataracts  from  all  points  of 
view;  to  stand  upon  the  edge  of  the  great  Horseshoe  Fall,  mark- 
ing the  hurried  water  gathering  strength  as  it  approached  the 
verge,  yet  seeming,  too,  to  pause  before  it  shot  into  the  gulf 
below;  to  gaze  from  the  river's  level  up  at  the  torrent  as  it  came 
streaming  down;  to  climb  the  neighboring  heights  and  watch 
it  through  the  trees,  and  see  the  wreathing  water  in  the  rapids 

19 


hurrying  on  to  take  its  fearful  plunge;  to  linger  in  the  shadow 
of  the  solemn  rocks  three  miles  below;  watching  the  river  as, 
stirred  by  no  visible  cause,  it  heaved  and  eddied  and  awoke  the 
echoes,  being  troubled  yet,  far  down  beneath  the  surface,  by  its 
giant  leap;  to  have  Niagara  before  me,  lighted  by  the  sun  and  by 
the  moon,  red  in  the  day's  dechne,  and  gray  as  evening  slowly 
fell  upon  it;  to  look  upon  it  every  day,  and  wake  up  in  the  night 
and  hear  its  ceaseless  voice:  this  was  enough.  I  think  in  every 
quiet  season  now,  still  do  these  waters  roll  and  leap  and  roar  and 
tumble,  all  day  long:  still  are  the  rainbows  spanning  them,  a 
bundled  feet  below.  Still,  when  the  day  is  gloomy,  do  they  fall 
like  snow,  or  seem  to  crumble  away  like  the  front  of  a  great 
chalk  cliff,  or  roll  down  the  rock  like  dense,  white  smoke.  But 
always  does  the  mighty  stream  appear  to  die  as  it  comes  down, 
and  always  from  its  unfathomable  grave  arises  that  tremendous 
ghost  of  spray  and  mist  which  is  never  laid;  which  has  haunted 
this  place  with  the  same  dread  solemnity  since  darkness  brooded 
on  the  deep,  and  that  first  flood  before  the  deluge — light — came 
rushing  on  creation  at  the  word  of  God." 


CHAPTER  III. 
In  the  Sh.\dow  of  a  Great  Hero. 

We  had  one  brief  day  in  Xew  York.  It  must  be  well  spent. 
It  was  well  spent,  indeed. 

I  admire  Xew  York  more  and  more.  It  is  so  much  cleaner, 
so  much  more  complete,  so  much  grander  and  more  interesting 
than  it  used  to  be  only  ten  years  ago.  But  it  is  not  very  Ameri- 
can. The  tourist  is  almost  in  Europe  upon  reaching  the  great 
metropolis  of  our  own  Continent. 

Patriotism  is  one  of  the  cardinal  virtues.  It  should  be  dili- 
gently cultivated.  We  cannot  speak  of  it  too  often.  In  my 
college  work  we  sing  "America"  and  "'God  Save  Our  Country" 
frequently  at  chapels.  It  is  a  part  of  my  religion  to  ask  for  God's 
blessing  in  prayer  and  song  upon  the  country  which  is  mine  by 

20 


my  birthright  already,  and  by  education,  love  and  admiration 
afterwards. 

The  first  thing  I  wanted  to  see  in  Xew  York  was  General 
Grant's  monument. 

We  found  out  tTiat  Xew  York  is  a  great  city.  It  took  a 
long  time  to  reach  the  monument.  Incidentally  we  saw  the 
splendid  parade  of  5,000  clean  street  cleaners.  Now  we  under- 
stood why  the  Xew  York  of  today  is  so  much  cleaner  than  the 
Chicago  of  today.  The  street  cleaning  brigade  is  as  necessary  to 
the  welfare  and  prosperity  of  the  city  as  the  clearing  house,  and 
in  one  sense,  even  more  so.     I  shall  never  forget  that  sight. 

General  Grant  is  a  character  that  improves  upon  closer 
acquaintance.  He  grows  with  age.  His  memory  will  climb  up 
and  take  its  rightful  place  as  the  third  of  the  American  trium- 
virate: Washington,  Lincoln,  Grant.  There  is  so  much  to  ad- 
mire in  this  Xapoleon  the  first  of  America,  the  silent,  uncon- 
querable hero  of  our  Civil  War.  I  do  not  mean,  but  what  he 
has  been  great  all  this  time.  Most  assuredly.  And  yet,  his 
greatness  grows.  As  we  look  upon  the  many  eventful  happen- 
ings of  his  life  from  a  greater  distance,  the  perspective  becomes 
clearer  and  truer.  We  call  him  General  Grant.  To  me  he  is  not 
only  the  General,  but  also  one  of  the  greatest  of  our  presidents 
and'  statesmen,  and  also  in  his  personal  character  a  typical  Ameri- 
can. Weigh  it  all,  remember  the  peculiar  environments.  Com- 
pare him  from  different  points  of  view  and  tell  me  afterwards,  if 
I  am  not  right. 

We  have  reached  our  destination.  Xow  we  see  the  monu- 
ment. I  was  present  at  the  unveiling  of  the  beautiful  Grant 
Monument  in  Lincoln  Park,  Chicago.  Xone  present  there  will 
have  any  difficulty  in  remembering  the  impressive  ceremonies. 
Chicago  is  quick,  energetic,  active  and  is  unsurpassed  in  the 
American  characteristic  of  getting  there.  The  renowned  Queen 
of  Lake  Michigan  has  the  great  General  on  horseback,  in  motion. 
Xew  York  is  sedate,  slow,  solid  and  dignified.  The  Monument 
is  the  same.  Monuments  are  tell-tales.  They  form  not  seldom 
a  soul-picture  of  their  surroundings. 

See  the  great  architectural  pile.  Its  first  greeting  to  the 
visitor  is:  "Let  us  have  peace."  Yes,  there  we  see  not  the 
bloodv,  victorious  hero  of  the  battlefield  only,  but  the  true  Ameri- 
can who  fought,  not  for  glory,  but  for  the  Salvation  of  his  Coun- 
try, for  peace.     Oh,  that  the  words  of  Grant  might  echo  and  re- 

21 


echo  through  our  broad  land  and  keep  its  people  in  love  of  peace. 
Peace,  not  war  should  be  the  motto  of  the  next  century.  Will 
it  be  so?  Who  can  tell?  Let  the  demagogue  who  incites  to 
arms  and  bloodshed  listen  to  America's  greatest  war-hero:  "Let 
us  have  peace." 

Some  days  ago  I  listened  to  my  own  Governor.  The  people 
were  assembled  at  a  Fall  Festival.  The  signs  of  renewed  "Pros- 
perity" abounded.  The  "General"  and  all  of  his  family  were 
there.  The  Governor  was  proud  of  his  State,  so  he  said  and 
so  he  looked,  but  the  main  part  of  his  speech  was  an  argument 
against  the  principles  of  Arbitration.  When  the  Governor  vis- 
ited New  York  this  Summer,  and  for  the  first  time,  he  went  to 
Wall  Street  and  the  Sub-Treasury.  When  I  visited  the  great 
metropolis,  I  went  to  the  tomb  of  the  dead  hero.  Shades  of 
Grant!  To  hear  the  Governor  of  a  farming,  stock-raising  state 
speak  against  Arbitration,  a  Governor  elected  by  the  People's 
Party  praise  the  principle  of  war! 

"Let  us  have  peace." 

We  entered  the  circular,  national  sanctuary.  Hats  were  volun- 
tarily removed,  or  a  policeman  would  remove  them  for  you.  The 
American  nation  lacks  in  reverence.  I  am  glad  that  the  policeman 
has  the  right  kind  of  orders  over  there  by  the  beautiful  Hudson. 

What  a  grand  rotunda.  To  me  it  seems  a  copy  of  the  tomb 
of  Napoleon  the  Great.  In  that  fact  it  is  a  disappointment. 
Grant  was  a  much  worthier  man  than  Napoleon.  He  deserved 
a  design,  all  his  own.  But  the  place  is  grand,  impressive  and 
never-to-be-forgotten.  The  spirit  of  peace  reigned  there.  I  may 
be  foolish.  At  Napoleon's  tomb  my  heart  froze.  Everything 
was  so  grand,  so  cold.  There  was  almost  a  frown  in  the  very 
air.  In  this  American  "Memorial,  to  one  of  our  greatest  and 
most  beloved  sons,  my  feelings  were  so  different.  Peace,  rest! 
A  father's  warning:  Don't  trifle  with  it!  Preserve  peace.  See 
that  all  interests  become  the  interest  of  everyone.  Peace,  Pros- 
perity, Patriotism! 

From  a  circular  opening  one  sees  the  gray  pedestal  upon 
which  is  placed  the  chocolate  colored  sarcophagus  of  stone,  con- 
taining the  earthly  remains  of  the  great  general  and  citizen. 
This  is  in  the  story  below.  To  it  the  public  have  no  admission. 
By  and  by  trophies  and  memories  from  the  war  will  fill  a  good 
deal  of  vacant  space.  By  and  by  the  faithful  and  noble  wife 
will  rest  by  her  husband's  side. 


22 


Ulysses  S.  Grant. 

Such  is  the  simple  inscription  upon  the  costly  casket.  No 
more  could  be  said.  History  knows  the  rest.  The  American 
people  have  engraved  the  story  of  that  life  upon  the  immortal 
tablets  of  a  heartfelt  gratitude. 

It  was  an  hour  of  worship,  of  devotion  and  healthful  medita- 
tion. 

We  stepped  outside.  There  was  the  beautiful  Hudson,  appre- 
ciated all  the  more  by  one  who  has  seen  the  far-famed  rivers  of 
other  climes.  The  location  for  the  monument  could  not  be 
better.  It  is  well  chosen.  There  is  something  of  Mt.  Vernon 
in  that  view.  And  why  should  only  George  Washington  be 
the  "father  of  his  country?"  Is  there  nothing  of  the  same  kind  to 
be  said  of  Lincoln  and  Grant? 

From  Grant  to — John  Ericson.  We  stood  by  his  simple 
monument  in  Battery  Park  and  remembered  the  significant  part 
his  "Monitor"  took  in  our  Civil  War.  By  and  by  we  will  stand 
by  his  tomb  in  far-away  Sweden. 


CHAPTER  IV. 
On  Board  "The  Mongolian." 

Here  we  are,  plunging  along  in  the  mist  amid  the  accompani- 
ment of  the  fog  horn,  whose  serenade  this  time  is  the  most  per- 
severing I  ever  heard.  We  have  listened  to  it  almost  without 
interruption  for  more  than  twenty-four  hours.  At  first  such 
an  experience  is  terrible,  but  one  gets  used  to  it  after  a  while. 
I  have  slept  well,  taken  my  morning  bath,  breakfasted,  and  feel 
as  well  as  ^IcKinley  or  Mark  Hanna,  in  fact  much  better,  as  no 
troubles  or  anxieties  are  allowed  to  ship  with  the  American  tour- 
ist for  Europe. 

Time  speeds  merrily  on,  as  our  company  is  a  very  interesting 
one.  Major  J.  B.  Pond,  of  New  York,  is  with  us  with  his  ever- 
lasting fund  of  anecdote  and  reminiscence.  Rev.  Bishop  Gray, 
of  Florida,  Dr.  Lawson,  of  Brooklyn,  Mr.  Marr,  of  Ceylon,  Mex- 

23 


ico,  England,  and  others  almost  equally  interesting,  help  to  make 
up  our  list  of  passengers.  The  weather  has  not  been  stormy  so 
far,  and  the  "Mongolian"  is  the  steadiest  ship  I  ever  traveled 
with. 

I  do  not  know  whether  we  are  in  England  or  the  United 
States;  last  Sunday  the  American  bishop  prayed  first  for  Queen 
Victoria  and  then  for  President  McKinley  with  equal  fervor.  I 
suppose  we  belong  to  both  countries  at  the  present  time.  All 
right,  let  it  be  so,  and  that  gives  me  the  right  to  speak  of  a  few 
international  affairs. 

Last  night  I  overheard  and  finally  took  part  in  a  conversation 

about  the  standing  of  the  different  nations  with  the  world  at  large. 

Everyone  agreed  to  one  thing:  the  British  are  the  best  protected 

people  in  the  world  while  abroad.     Said  one:  "the  American  is  all 

right  at  home,  but  he  is  nobody  when  abroad."     The  British 

consuls  must  often  protect  American  citizens,  sometimes  because 

the  American  consul  is  somewhere  else,  sometimes  because  he 

does  not  know  how;  and  sometimes  because  the  commanders  of 

our  men  of  war  have  not  sufficient  authority.    I  am  unable  to  say, 

of  course,  how  much  truth  there  is  in  the  above,  but  Americans 

and  Englishmen  alike  testified  to  cases  that  had  come  under  their 

observation.     One  thing  more.     Our  representatives  abroad  are 

frequently  off  from  their  post  of  duty.     In  the  City  of  Mexico 

last  fall  all  of  our  men  had  left  their  places,  and  our  American 

affairs  were  in  the  hands  of  a  polite— Mexican.     So  said  a  wealthy 

and  influential  passenger  who  is  largely  interested  in  our  sister 

republic.     The  four  men  in  charge  had  gone  home  to  vote  for 

Bryan.     Our  representative  at  Stockholm,  who  has  been  known 

chiefly  by  his  absences,  came  home  to  vote  for  McKinley.     In 

both  cases  the  business  of  our  country  and  the  interests  of  our 

countrymen  were  left  largely  to  the  care  of  themselves.     By  such 

absences  we  have  even  lost  important  treaties  and  commercial 

relations.     In  one  of  the  important  capital  cities,  one  of  the  most 

important  to  the  United  States,  our  chief  representative  has  for 

the  last  months  been  seen  at  the  pool  room,  betting  on  the  races, 

etc..  just  like  a  common  sport.     An  Englishman,  who  had  seen 

him  there,  looked  me  in  the  face  and  said:  "very  naturally  that 

kind  of  conduct  does  not  add  to  the  dignity  of  your  nation 

abroad."     He  added:  "of  course  he  did  not  do  this  until  after 

the   election  last   November.     Your  system   of  changing  your 

representation  abroad  every  four  years  is  abominable.     Your 

24 


entire  diplomatic  service  ought  to  be  made  more  permanent,,  if 
you  wish  to  have  it  as  efficient  as  that  of  other  great  nations. 
Your  representatives  are  not  paid  sufficiently  anyway  to  keep  up 
your  dignity  abroad.  This  is  exceedingly  short-sighted  par- 
simony. Your  nation  is  very  wealthy  and  can  well  afiford  to  take 
its  place  in  the  world  at  large  among  the  other  great  nations.'^ 

In  this  connection  I  am  very  glad  to  remember  that  Presi'dent 
McKinley's  appointments  so  far  have  included  many  gentlemen 
of  former  diplomatic  experience,  gentlemen  who  will  not  come 
to  their  respective  legations  as  comparative  greenhorns,  but  well 
equipped  for  their  duties.  In  the  same  proportion  as  we  expect 
to  profit  by  the  commerce  of  the  world,  in  just  that  same  pro- 
portion should  we  be  ambitious  to  send  only  men  of  adequate 
capacity  to  represent  us  and  our  interests  among  other  nations 
and  in  the  foreign  parts  of  the  world.  The  more  liberal  and 
vigorous  our  foreign  policy  becomes,  the  greater  will  be  our 
national  honor,  dignity  and  glory,  and  the  greater  our  revenues 
from  our  commercial  relations  with  other  parts  of  the  world. 
And  William  McKinley  with  John  Sherman  are  now  at  the  helm 
in  our  own  country.     Hurrah! 

As  I  am  writing  this  the  gentleman  who  introduced  tea  culture 
into  Ceylon  is  sitting  by  the  table.  He  has  made  a  great  success 
of  it,  and  is  now  attempting  to  do  the  same  for  Mexico.  Presi- 
dent Diaz  sent  for  him  and  offered  him  a  bonus  of  $20,000  for  the 
first  chest  of  tea  produced  by  him  upon  Mexican  soil.  He 
expects  to  call  for  the  fulfillment  of  the  contract  very  soon.  1 
took  the  liberty  of  interviewing  him  on  the  subject.  It  takes 
about  two  years  to  bring  the  tea  plant  into  bearing.  In  Ceylon 
he  owned  a  cofifee  plantation.  Some  terrible  insect  or  blight 
destroyed  the  coffee.  This  gentleman  then  went  into  the  tea 
countries,  secured  information  and  seed,  and  now  the  Ceylon 
tea  is  well  known  in  the  great  markets  of  the  world.  It  gives 
1,200  pounds  to  the  acre  on  the  lowlands,  250  on  the  highlands 
and  is  picked  the  year  around.  In  China  tea  makes  only  35  to  40 
pounds  to  the  acre.  The  gentleman  in  question  owns  a  large 
coffee  plantation  in  ]\Iexico  and  has  now  planted  two  hundred 
acres  to  tea.  His  first  chest  will,  as  referred  to  above,  bring  him 
$20,000.  If  he  succeeds  it  means  an  immense  addition  to  the 
possibilities  of  our  sister  republic. 

I  asked  him  about  labor  and  pay  for  labor.    He  pays  in  Mexi- 
can money  $io@i2  per  month  and  rations  for  his  plantation 

-5 


hands.  The  rations  amount  to  $1.35  per  month.  In  our  money 
it  means  $5  to  $6  per  month  with  rations  of  about  67  cents  per 
month  for  each  laborer.  He  could  get  a  fine  turkey  or  two 
chickens  for  25  cents  and  his  meat  costs  him  6^  cents,  all  in  Mex- 
ican money.  I  asked  him  about  Mexican  free  silver.  It  would 
be  kept  up  for  some  years,  he  said.  It  brought  capital  into  the 
country,  as  the  money  of  other  countries  doubled  in  Mexico,  and 
the  rich  and  wealthy  paid  their  laborers,  farmers  and  producers 
in  this  depreciated  currency,  while  they  received  their  own  pay 
in  good  money  in  the  markets  of  the  world.  It  is  a  splendid 
arrangement  for  the  owners  of  capital  and  great  plantations,  it 
seems,  but  how  it  benefits  labor  seems  very  problematical. 

We  have  seen  six  or  eight  beautiful  icebergs,  'but  have  now 
passed  beyond  their  district  and  are  fast  nearing  Europe. 


CHAPTER  V. 
Bv  Whom  Where  We  Discovered? 

Yes,  we  arc  on  our  way  to  dear,  old  Sweden.  Pardon  my 
wandering  thoughts.  The  ocean  is  a  splendid  brain  stimulant, 
that  is  after  the  first  few  days,  and  on  the  supposition  that  you 
are  not  sea-sick. 

Who  found  our  own  shores  first?  Who  are  the  true  dis- 
coverers of  America?  From  whom  did  Columbus  himself  get  the 
thought  and  inspiration  to  cross  the  mighty  deep?  Why,  the 
thought  is  so  natural,  and  so  interesting  to  me  at  this  time.  It 
becomes  more  so  from  the  fact  that  we  are  on  our  way  to  the 
country  that  gave  the  world  some  of  the  most  illustrious  adven- 
turers and  discoverers  history  ever  recorded.  Wo  have  Xorden- 
skiold,  Nansen  and  Andree  from  the  Scandinavia  of  today,  known 
to  the  entire  civilized  world,  but  theirs  is  only  the  old  Viking 
blood,  sent  to  school,  to  the  college  and  university  of  our  age, 
and  then  started  in  the  old  play  of  the  daring  and  courageous 
forefathers  of  many  centuries  ago. 

Scandinavia  is  a  romance,  an  epic  of  great  strength,  a  dream 

26 


of  undaunted  heroism  in  the  face  of  the  greatest  danger,  of  suc- 
cess under  the  most  adverse  circumstances.  Read  its  history, 
feel  the  charm  thereof  as  others  have  done  before,  and  then  visit 
the  land  in  the  beautiful,  far  away  north. 

But  before  I  relate  to  you,  dear  reader,  how  I  came  to  Sweden, 
let  me  tell  you  how  the  old  Norsemen  came  to  America.  We 
have  plenty  of  time.  The  "Mongolian"  moves  slowly  today  in 
the  fog  and  among  the  icebergs. 

Thank  you.  How  pleasant  it  will  be  to  tell  you  all  a  little  of 
the  story  of  these  brave  mariners,  while  I  am  enjoying  the 
thought  that  our  captain  is  known  to  be  very  cautious  and  that  his 
ship  has  the  reputation  of  being  unusually  safe  and  sound. 

All  ready!     Here  comes  my  story.* 

The  name  Norsemen  (Scandinavians,  Northmen,  Normans, 
and  in  English  history,  Danes)  was  early  given  in  common  to  the 
Swedes,  Norwegians,  Danes  and  Icelanders.  Their  ancestors 
once  lived  in  the  regions  north  of  the  Black  Sea,  and  belonged  to 
the  great  Germanic  or  Teutonic  family  of  the  Caucasian  branch  of 
the  Aryan  race.  Some  centuries  before  Christ  they  were  forced, for 
some  reason  or  another,  to  emigrate,  and  finally  arrived,  through 
Russia  and  Finland  and  across  the  Baltic,  in  Sweden.  As  to  the 
time  of  their  arrival  in  Sweden  opinions  vary,  some  claiming  that 
it  took  place  at  about  the  beginning  of  the  Christian  era;  others 
saying  that  they  came  already  in  the  year  375  B.  C,  and  took 
possession  of  the  country  above  the  colonies  of  the  Goths.  Already 
in  the  second  or  third  centuries  of  the  Christian  era  the  power  of 

*For  a  fuller  presentation  of  the  history  of  the  Norsemen  as  connected 
with  our  American  life,  the  general  reader  is  respectfully  referred  to 
The  Viking  Age.  by  Paul  B.  DuChaillu,  and  the  Universal  Histories  01 
Clare  and  Ridpath,  and  especially  to  the  excellent  History  of  the  United 
States  (in  Swedish)  and  "The  Norsemen  in  America"  (in  Swedish),  by 
Prof.  J.  A.  Enander,  LL.  D.,  and  "America  Not  Discovered  by  Colum- 
bus," by  Prof.  Rasmus  B.  Anderson,  the  author  of  several  other  works  in 
English  of  much  interest  and  value  to  the  student.  I  have  used  these 
sources  very  freely,  being  fully  acquainted  with  the  scholarship  and  stand- 
ing of  the  distinguished  autho'rs.  "Sweden  and  the  Swedes,"  by  the  Hon. 
W.  W.  Thomas,  Tr..  our  ex-minister  to  Sweden-Norway,  and  "Songs 
from  the  North"  (Vol.  I.),  by  ^Irs.  Valborg  Hovind  Stub,  are  worthy 
of  unreserved  praise,  as  is  also  an  article  on  "Iceland  and  Its  People,' 
by  Ruth  Schaffner,  in  a  late  issue  of  The  Chautauquan.  My  story  is  an 
article  of  mine  in  The  Progress,  reprinted  by  the  courtesy  of  the  pubr 
Ushers. 

31 


the  Norsemen  grew  very  rapidly.  The  Goths  emigrated  from 
Scandinavia,  and  eventually  fought  the  Romans.  The  Norsemen 
became  sovereigns  of  the  north.  They  were  acquainted  with  the 
use  of  iron,  and  by  their  iron  and  genius  they  have  ably  and  suc- 
cessfully defended  their  independence  ever  since. 

Scandinavia  (Sweden,  Norway  and  Denmark)  comprises  two 
large  peninsulas  in  Northern  Europe.  The  area  of  Sweden  is  170,- 
713  square  miles.  The  greatest  length  of  the  country  from  north 
to  south  is  986  miles  and  its  greatest  breadth  286  miles.  The 
length  of  its  coast  line  is  1,603  "lil^s.  The  country  is  divided  into 
three  chief  parts:  Gc3taland,  Svealand,  and  Norrland.  The  area 
of  Norway  is  122,780  miles,  its  greatest  breadth  is  280  miles,  and 
it  has  as  enormous  coast  line  of  3.018  miles.  It  is  divided  into 
eighteen  amts  (counties),  ami  is  the  most  sparsely  settled  country 
in  Europe.  Denmark's  area  is  14,124  square  miles,  making  the 
total  area  of  Scandinavia  307,617  square  miles,  or  three  times 
larger  than  Italy,  four  times  larger  than  our  six  New  England 
states  taken  together,  larger  than  France,  than  Germany,  larger 
than  any  European  country  except  Russia. 

The  extreme  northern  location  of  Scandinavia,  the  mountains, 
forests,  and  lakes  of  Sweden-Norway,  have  in  combination  made 
a  very  large  population  impossible.  .\nd  yet  the  climate  is  not 
by  far  as  severe  as  might  be  supposed.  The  Gulf  Stream  and  the 
ocean  temper  the  cold,  and  agriculture  is  possible  in  regions 
twelve  hundred  miles  north  of  Diihuh.  The  long  summer  days 
aid  nature  very  materially  in  maturing  the  crops.  The  long 
winter  nights  are  illumined  by  the  bright  .\urora  l>orealis.  The 
Midnight  Sun  and  the  Northern  Light  combine  in  producing  a 
climate  of  weird  and  unsurpassed  beauty — a  climate,  the  character 
of  which  could  not  fail  to  make  lasting  impressions  upon  the 
people  inhabiting  such  a  country. 

Have  you  ever  visited  Scandinavia  in  simnner?  Ah,  one  can 
never  forget  the  pleasures  of  such  a  trip.  Steaming  up  the  lovely 
fjords,  surrounded  by  everlasting  mountain  fastnesses;  listening 
to  the  solenm  song  of  the  cascades  in  the  mighty  forests,  while 
the  summer  breeze  plays  a  most  fascinating  accompaniment  in  the 
tops  of  the  stately  pine  trees;  skipping  about  on  the  placid  lakes 
in  rollicking  yachts,  amid  scenes  of  ever-changing  beauty;  for- 
getting the  day  and  the  night  in  the  unsurpassed  experience  of  an 
ideal  existence,  "where  there  is  no  more  night,"  one  feels  instinct- 
ively that  the  people  of  such  a  country  could  never  be  but  inde- 

3-2 


pendent,  liberty-loving,  romantic,  daring,  brainy  and  invincible. 

The  Scandinavian  countries  are  today  probably  the  best  edu- 
cated, the  happiest,  and  most  satisfied  on  the  globe.  Illiteracy 
is  reduced  to  a  minimum.  The  latest  statistics  shov^  that  the 
per  cent  of  illiteracy  in  Sweden  is  but  six-tenths  of  one  per  cent. 
The  public  school  system,  the  colleges  and  universities  of  these 
countries  are  not  surpassed  by  any  other  land.  The  university  at 
Upsala,  Sweden,  this  year  has  matriculated  1,459  students,  every 
one  of  whom  was  an  A.B.  or  B.S.  before  entering  the  university. 
Our  greatest  American  universities  seldom  register  more  than  300 
post  graduate  students.  Poverty  is  never  found  in  its  hideous 
aspect.  There  are  no  slum  districts  in  the  cities  in  the  same  sense 
as  among  us,  nor  are  there  any  tramps.  Law  and  order  are  estab- 
lished more  completely  than  anywhere  else,  except  in  Switzerland. 
The  people  are,  as  such.  God-fearing  nations.  Their  governments 
are  next  to  ideal  monarchies,  and  an  American  traveling  in 
Scandinavia  often  cannot  help  wishing  in  his  heart:  "Oh,  that 
some  of  the  same  conditions  existed  in  our  country!" 

Railroads,  the  telegraph,  telephone,  electric  light,  and  other 
modern  improvements  are  found  even  in  far-away  Norrland. 
Agriculture,  horticulture,  dairying,  mining,  fishing,  and  home 
industries  of  every  kind  flourish,  and  are  continually  being  devel- 
oped into  greater  perfection.  The  religious  life  of  the  people  is 
sincere  and  reliable.  Such  are  today  the  countries  of  the  old- 
time  Norsemen  and  Vikings. 

The  language  spoken  in  the  three  Scandinavian  countries  up 
to  the  year  A.D.  1200  is  called,  by  Icelandic  authorities '^Norraena 
mal,"  or  "Dansk  tunga."  The  Norse  language  found  in  far-away 
Iceland,  its  most  permanent  home  and  refuge,  being  by  very 
nature  protected  from  undue  foreign  influences,  and  "it  has  there, 
by  its  early  and  settled  literature,  remained  purer  than  any  other 
modern  language."  The  Swedish,  and  even  more  so  the  Danish 
and  Norwegian,  have  gradually  departed  from  the  mother  tongue 
by  the  introduction  of  many  words  of  Roman,  Greek  and  German 
extraction.  The  language  of  the  Norsemen  was  the  true  expo- 
nent of  the  people  and  climate  of  the  ever-memorable  North — 
"hard  as  the  sword  of  the  Viking  warrior,  expressive  as  the  man- 
date of  the  ancient  ting  (mass  meeting),  reliable  and  honest  as  a 
northern  grasp  of  the  hand,  beautiful  as  the  eyes  of  a  Norse 
maiden,  pure  as  the  air  of  the  far-famed  Northland,  sublime  as 
nature  itself  in  the  country  of  the  viks,  fjords,  lakes,  torrents  and 

3^ 


the  Midnight  Sun."  It  was  poetic,  it  was  patriotic,  it  was  self- 
conscious  and  independent.  Longfellow  said:  "The  Icelandic 
is  as  remarkable  as  the  Anglo-Saxon  for  its  abruptness,  its 
obscurity,  and  the  boldness  of  its  metaphors.  Poets  are  called 
song-smitiis;  poetry,  the  language  of  the  gods;  gold,  the  daylight 
of  dwarfs;  the  heavens,  the  skull  of  Ymer;  the  rainbow,  the  bridge 
of  the  gods;  a  battle,  a  bath  of  blood,  the  hail  of  Oden,  tlie  meet- 
ing of  shields;  the  tongue,  the  sword  of  words;  a  river,  the  sweat 
of  earth,  the  blood  of  the  valleys;  arrows,  the  daughters  of  mis- 
fortune; the  earth,  the  vessel  that  floats  on  the  ages." 

The  Norsemen  early  expressed  their  thoughts  in  written  lan- 
guage. First  of  all  may  be  mentioned  their  rock  carvings.  Many 
such  "hall-ristningar"  were  made,  ])reserving  to  posterity  the 
story  of  the  valor  and  virtue  of  great  and  noble  men  and  women 
of  the  people.  The  Norseman,  Thorfinn  Karlsefne,  had  an 
inscription  of  this  kind  carved  on  the  Assonet-stone  (Dighton 
writing  rock),  Massachusetts,  in  the  year  loio.  Then  we  next 
have  the  "runas"  sometimes  combined  with  the  above,  comprising 
sixteen  signs,  afterward  complemented  by  five  more.  The  Swed- 
ish "runas"  are  by  Geijer,  Strinnholm,  and  Holmberg,  said  to  be 
the  foundation  of  the  Anglo-Saxon  "runas."  and  these  latter  the 
foundation  of  the  German.  The  oldest  written  records  in  the 
land  of  the  North  are  the  "run-stenar"  (stone  tablets  with  runa- 
inscriptions).  Of  the  1,500  "run-stenar"  found  so  far  about  1,300 
are  in  Sweden.  The  most  of  them  seem  to  belong  to  the  years 
950- 1 200. 

Poetry  was  ever  looked  upon  with  love  and  reverence  by  the 
Norsemen.  The  i)oets  were  welcome  guests  in  the  courts  of  kings 
and  warriors,  and  were  well  paid  for  their  labor.  The  oldest  pro- 
ductions of  Norse  poetry  were  distinguished  by  their  warlike 
rhythm,  daring  transpositions,  and  beautiful,  unfailing  figures  of 
speech.  They  were  transmitted  from  father  to  son  by  verbal  tra- 
dition. The  unsurpassed  imagery  of  these  songs  can  hardly  be 
described.  Oden  had  not  less  than  two  hundred  appellations. 
Heaven,  earth,  the  ocean,  and  every  force  in  nature  received  their 
respective  names  and  personifications.  The  songs  were  either 
mythical,  semi-mythical,  or  historical.  The  first  two  kinds  are 
the  oldest. 

The  memory  of  the  poets  and  singers  was  something  remark- 
able. Geijer  mentions  an  instance.  The  blind  poet  Stuf  sang 
to  Harald  Hardrade  in  one  evening  sixty  songs  (poems  of  some 

34 


length)  and  said  that  he  could  have  given  thirty  more  had  the 
occasion  permitted  it. 

The  Sagas  (saga,  from  segja,  say,  relate)  v^^ere  the  history  of 
that  day,  as  it  lived  upon  the  lips  of  the  people.  It  is  difficult  for 
our  age  to  understand  how  enthusiastically  they  were  told  and 
retold,  and  how  wonderfully  the  partiotism  of  the  young  was 
kindled  and  perpetuated  in  this  manner.  This  was  true  especially 
in  Iceland.  The  Norse  colonists  in  that  far-away  land  looked 
upon  their  language  and  the  memory  of  their  great  and  brave 
forefathers,  handed  down  to  them  from  generation  to  generation 
in  the  "Sagas,"  as  the  best  and  dearest  inheritance  of  everything 
they  had  brought  along  from  the  old  Scandinavian  countries.  To 
these  Icelanders  is  due  a  great  deal  of  credit  for  preserving  unto 
posterity  the  story  of  the  life  and  experience  of  the  Norsemen  in 
the  ages  gone  by.  Tradition  gave  way  to  literature.  In  the 
Eddas  of  Saemunder  (1333,  Iceland)  and  of  Snorre  Sturlesson 
(11 78- 1 24 1,  Iceland)  is  found  a  most  wonderful  treasury  of  his- 
toric information,  of  poetic  beauty,  and  of  Norse  individuality. 
"The  ancient  literature  and  traditions  of  Iceland  excel  anything  of 
their  kind  in  Europe  during  the  Middle  Ages.  The  Icelandic 
poems  have  no  parallel  in  all  the  treasures  of  ancient  literature. 
There  are  gigantic  proportions  about  them,  and  great  and  over- 
whelming tragedies  in  them,  which  rival  those  of  Greece.  The 
early  literature  of  Iceland  is  now  fast  becoming  recognized  as 
equal  to  that  of  ancient  Greece  and  Rome."  "Among  no  other 
people  of  Europe  can  the  conception  and  birth  of  historical  litera- 
ture be  more  clearly  traced  than  amongst  the  people  of  Iceland" 
(i).     It  would  be  interesting  to  sketch  in  this  connection  the  lan- 

(i).  William  and  Mary  Howitt:  "There  is  nothing  besides  the 
Bible,  which  sits  in  a  divine  tranquility  of  unapproachable  nobility,  like 
a  king  of  kings  amongst  all  other  books,  and  the  poem  of  Homer  himself, 
which  can  compare  in  all  of  the  elements  of  greatness  with  Edda.  There 
is  a  loftiness  of  stature  and  a  growth  of  muscle  about  it  which  no  poets 
of  the  same  race  have  ever  since  reached.  The  obscurity  which  hangs 
over  some  parts  of  it,  like  the  deep  shadows  crouching  mid  the  ruins  of 
the  past,  is  probably  the  result  of  dilapidations;  but,  amid  this,  stand  forth 
the  boldest  masses  of  intellectual  masonry.  We  are  astonished  at  the 
wisdom  which  is  shaped  into  maxims,  and  at  the  tempestuous  strength 
of  passions  to  which  all  modern  emotions  appear  puny  and  constrained. 
Amid  the  bright  sunlight  of  a  far-ofif  time,  surrounded  by  the  densest 
shadows  of  forgotten  ages,  we  come  at  once  into  the  midst  of  gods  and 
heroes,  goddesses  and  fair  women,  giants  and  dwarfs,  moving  about  in  a 
world  of  wonderful  construction,  unlike  any  other  worlds  or  creations 

35 


which  God  has  founded  or  man  has  imaged,  but  still  beautiful  beyond 
conception. 

The  Icelandic  poems  have  no  parallel  in  all  the  treasures  of  ancient 
literature.  They  are  the  expressions  of  the  souls  of  poets  existing  in  the 
primeval  and  unefTeminated  earth.  They  are  the  limnings  of  men  and 
women  of  godlike  beauty  and  endowments,  full  of  the  vigor  of  simple, 
but  impetuous  natures.  There  are  gigantic  proportions  about  them. 
There  are  great  and  overwhelming  tragedies  in  them,  to  which  those  of 
Greece  only  present  any  parallels. 

The  Edda  is  a  structure  of  that  grandeur  and  importance  that  it 
deserves  to  be  far  better  known  to  us  generally  than  it  is.  The  spirit 
in  it  is  sublime  and  colossal." 

Pliny  Miles:  "The  literary  history  of  Iceland  in  the  early  ages  of  the 
republic  is  of  a  most  interesting  character.  When  we  consider  the 
limited  population  of  the  country,  and  the  many  disadvantages  under 
which  they  labored,  their  literature  is  the  most  remarkable  on  record. 
The  old  Icelanders,  from  the  tenth  to  the  fixtcenth  century,  through  a 
period  of  the  history  of  the  world  when  little  intellectual  light  beamed 
from  the  surrounding  nations,  were  as  devoted  and  ardent  workers  in 
the  fields  of  history  and  poetry  as  any  community  in  the  world  under  the 
most  favorable  circumstances.  Springing  from  the  Old  Norse  stock, 
they  carried  the  language  and  habits  of  their  ancestors  with  them  to  their 
highland  home.  The  Eddas  abound  in  mythological  machinery  to  an 
extent  quite  equal  to  the  writings  of  Homer  and  Virgil." 

Schlegel  says,  in  his  "Esthetics  and  Miscellaneous  Works":  "If  any 
monument  of  the  primitive  northern  world  deserves  a  place  among  the 
earlier  remains  of  the  South,  the  Icelandic  Edda  must  be  deemed  worthy 
of  that  di.^^tinction.  The  spiritual  veneration  for  Nature,  to  which  the 
sensual  Greek  was  an  entire  stranger,  gushes  forth  in  the  mysterious 
language  and  prophetic  tradition  of  the  Northern  Edda  with  a  fine  tide 
of  enthusiasm  and  inspiration  sufficient  to  endure  for  centuries,  and  to 
supply  a  whole  race  of  future  bards  and  poets  with  a  precious  and  ani- 
mating elixir.  The  vivid  deliniations,  the  rich,  glowing  abundance  and 
animation  of  the  Homeric  pictures  of  the  world,  are  not  more  decidedly 
superior  to  the  misty  scenes  and  shadowy  forms  of  Ossian,  than  the 
Northern  Edda  in  its  sublimity  to  the  works  of  Hesiod." 

Prof.  Dr.  Dietrich  asserts  "that  the  Scandinavian  literature  is  extraor- 
dinarily rich  in  all  kinds  of  writings." 

Charles  L.  Brace,  in  speaking  of  Iceland,  says: 

"The  Congress,  or  'althing,'  of  the  Icelanders,  had  many  of  the  best 
political  features  which  have  distinguished  parliamentary  government  in 
all  branches  of  the  Teutonic  race  since. 

"To  this  remote  island  (Iceland)  came,  too,  that  remarkable  profes- 
sion, who  were  at  once  the  poets,  historians,  genealogists  and  moralists 
of  the  Norse  race,  the  Skalds.  Tl.cse  men,  before  writing  was  much  in 
use,  handed  down  by  memory,  in  familiar  and  often  illiterative  poetry, 
the  names  and  deeds  of  the  brave  Norsemen,  their  victories  on  every 
coast  of  Europe,  their  histories  and  passions,  and  wild  deaths,  their 
family  ties,  and  the  boundaries  of  their  possessions:  their  adventures  and 

36 


voyages,  and  even  their  law  and  their  mythology.  In  fact,  all  that  history 
and  legal  documents,  genealogical  records  and  poetry  transmit  now,  was 
handed  down  by  these  bards  of  the  Norsemen.  Iceland  became  their 
peculiar  center  and  home.  Here,  in  bold  and  vivid  language,  they 
recorded  in  works,  which  posterity  will  never  let  die,  the  achievements  of 
the  Vikings,  the  conquest  of  almost  every  people  in  Europe  by  these 
vigorous  pirates;  their  wild  ventures,  their  contempt  of  pain  and  death, 
their  absolute  joy  in  danger,  in  combat  and  difficulty.  In  these,  the 
oldest  records  of  our  (i.  e.,  the  Americans')  forefathers  will  be  found 
even  among  these  wild  rovers  the  respect  for  law  which  has  characterized 
every  branch  of  the  Teutonic  race  since;  here,  and  not  in  the  Swiss 
cantons,  is  the  beginning  of  Parliament  and  Congress;  here,  and  not 
with  the  Anglo-Saxions,  is  the  foundation  of  trial  by  jury;  and  here, 
among  their  most  ungoverned  wassail,  is  that  high  reverence  for  woman, 
which  has  again  come  forth  among  the  Anglo-Norse  Americans.  The 
ancestors  (at  least  morally)  of  Raleigh  and  Nelson,  and  Kane  and 
Farragut,  appear  in  these  records,  among  these  sea-rovers,  whose  passion 
was  danger  and  venture  on  the  waters.  Here,  too,  among  such  men  as 
tlie  'Raven  Floki,'  is  the  prototype  of  those  American  pioneers  who 
follow  the  wild  birds  into  pathless  wildernesses  to  found  ne^v  republics. 
And  it  is  the  Norse  'udal'  property,  not  the  European  feudal  property, 
which  is  the  model  for  the  American  descendants  of  the  ancient  Norse- 
man. 

"In  these  Icelandic  Sagas,  too.  is  portrayed  the  deep  moral  sentiment 
which  characterizes  the  most  ancient  mythology  of  the  Teutonic  races. 
Here  we  have  no  dissolute  Pantheon,  with  gods  revelling  eternally  in 
earthly  vices,  and  the  evils  and  wrongs  of  humanity  continued  forever. 
Even  the  ghosts  of  the  Northmen  have  the  muscle  of  the  race;  they  are 
no  pale  shadows  flitting  through  the  Orcus.  The  dead  fight  and  eat 
with  the  vigor  of  the  living.  But  there  comes  a  dread  time  when  destiny 
overtakes  all,  both  human  and  divine  beings,  and  the  universe  with  its 
evil  and  wrong  must  perish  (Ragnaroke).  Yet  even  the  crack  of  doom 
finds  not  the  Norsemen  timid  or  fearing.  Gods  and  men  die  in  the  heat 
of  the  conflict;  and  there  survives  alone,  Baldur,  the  'God  of  Love,'  who 
shall  create  a  new  heaven  and  a  new  earth. 

"It  is  from  Iceland  that  we  get  the  wonderful  poetic  and  mythologic 
collections  of  the  Elder  and  Younger  Eddas.  In  this  remote  island  the 
original  Norse  language  was  preserved  more  purely  than  it  was  in  Norway 
or  Denmark,  and  the  Icelandic  literature  shed  a  flood  of  light  over  a  dark 
and  barbarous  age.  Even  now  the  modern  Icelanders  can  read  or  repeat 
their  most  ancient  Sagas  with  but  little  change  of  dialect. 

"But  to  an  American,  one  of  the  most  interesting  gifts  of  Iceland  to 
the  world  is  the  record  of  the  discovery  of  Northern  America  by  Ice- 
landic rovers  (?)  near  the  year  looo. 

"We  think  few  scholars  can  carefully  read  these  Sagas,  and  the  accom- 
panying in  regard  to  Greenland,  without  a  conviction  that  the  Icelandic 
and  Norwegian  Vikings  did  at  that  early  period  discover  and  land  on 
the  coast  of  our  eastern  states.  .  .  •  The  shortest  winter  day  is  stated 
with  such  precision  as  to  fix  the  latitude  near  the  coast  of  Massachusetts 

Z7 


and  Rhode  Island.     .     .     •     Iceland,  then,  has  the  honor  of  having  dis- 
covered America.  ,       ,, 

"That  volcanic-raised  island,  with  its  mountains  of  ice  and  valleys 
of  lava  and  ashes,  has  played  no  mean  part  in  the  world's  history."— 
Christian  Union,  July  15,  1874- 


guage  and  literature  up  to  the  present  time  of  the  three  Scandina- 
vian countries,  Sweden.  Norway  and  Denmark.  Our  present 
purpose  will  not  admit  of  that.  It  is  to  be  regretted,  however, 
that  the  EngUsh-speaking  world  has  access  to  so  few  worthy 
translations  of  the  masterpieces  of  Scandinavian  literature,  old 
and  new.  Did  an  opposite  condition  exist,  the  beauties  of  the 
poets  and  authors  of  the  North  would  receive  universal  homage. 
Bayard  Taylor  said:  "The  Swedish  language  combines  the 
strong  manhood  of  the  German  with  the  delicate  beauty  of  the 
Italian."  Longfellow,  who  died  as  Professor  of  the  Scandinavian 
languages  and  literature  at  Harvard  University,  acknowledged 
that  in  his  opinion  he  could  never  do  justice  in  a  translation  to 
Tegner's  IVithiof's  Saga,  of  which  at  least  twenty-one  versions 
into  English  exist  at  the  present  time.  The  charming  natural- 
ness, the  native  modesty  and  delicacy,  the  conscientious  care 
about  the  details,  the  thorough  knowledge  of  things  theoretical 
and  practical,  exhibited  continually  by  Scandinavian  writers, 
coupled  with  a  most  wonderful  communion  and  intimacy  with 
nature,  and  a  spirit  of  irresistible  weirdness  and  mysticism,  give  a 
charm  to  the  best  northern  writers  which  in  our  American  litera- 
ture so  far  has  been  ecjualed  only  by  Longfellow  (2). 

The  religion  of  the  Norsemen,  or  the  Asa-doctrine,  was  of  a 
deep,  pure,  mystic,  and  contemplative  kind  (1).  In  the  peculiar, 
profound,  enigmatic,  and  yet  almost  symbolic,  language  of  the 
ancients,  it  relates  about  the  creation  of  everything,  about  the 
representatives  of  the  Evil  and  the  Good,  about  the  continued 
battle  between  Spirit  and  Matter  both  on  earth  and  in  heaven, 
about  the  reward  of  X'irtue  and  punishment  of  Guilt,  and  finally 
about  the  eventual  destruction  of  the  finite  gods  and  the  finite 
world  in  a  great  universal  conflagration,  out  of  which,  however, 


(2).  Benjamin  Lossing  says:  "It  is  back  to  the  Norwegian  (Norse) 
Vikings  wc  must  look  for  the  hardiest  elements  of  progress  in  the  United 
States."  •" 

(i).  Sec  Victor  Rydbcrg.  Starback  or  Enander.  for  a  full  presenta- 
tion of  this  interesting  subject. 

3S 


STOCKHOLM 


THE   ROYAL   GARDENS.      2.   THE  NATIONAL   MUSEUM. 
3.      BERN'S  MUSIC   HALL. 


the  Good  would  come  victorious.  A  new,  rejuvenated  earth 
should  exist,  and  its  Ruler  would  be  "the  One  whose  name  no 
one  dares  to  speak,"  a  God  more  powerful  than  all  other  gods. 

The  Asa-doctrine  occupies  an  important  place  among  all  the 
mythologies  of  the  world.  It  is  so  comprehensive,  and  in  some 
respects  so  difficult  of  a  full  and  satisfactory  explanation — depend- 
ing on  its  fertility  of  beautiful  suggestion  and  a  most  enchanting 
symbolism — that  a  mere  outline  must  suffice  for  our  present  pur- 
pose. 

The  Norsemen  believed  that  heaven  and  earth  had  been  cre- 
ated out  of  chaos.  The  present  condition  of  things  was  the  work 
of  the  gods,  "the  merciful  and  kind  powers."  Man  was  also 
created  by  them,  and  lived  with  them  originally,  during  the 
Golden  Age  of  Peace  before  the  outbreak  of  the  strifes  between 
light  and  darkness,  the  Good  and  the  Evil. 

The  gods  and  the  goddesses  of  the  Norsemen  were  from  the 
beginning  nothing  but  the  personified  forces  of  nature.  After  a 
while,  however,  the  songs  of  the  poets  and  popular  belief  trans- 
formed them  into  living  beings,  endowed  with  the  body  and  the 
desires,  the  faults  and  virtues,  characteristics  of  the  common 
members  of  the  human  family.  They  were  subject  to  the  decrees 
of  fate  (the  Nornor)  and  of  the  unseen  and  powerful  God,  "the 
Powerful  One  from  above,  who  ordains  everything,  pronounces 
judgment,  elYects  reconciliation,  and  decides  the  reward  which 
is  to  be." 

The  Asa-gods  were:  Oden,  Thor,  Frej,  Balder,  Njord,  Heim- 
dall,  Tyr,  Brage,  Hoder,  Vidar,  Ale,  Uller  and  Forsete. 

The  goddesses  (Asynjor)  were:  Frigg,  Freja,  Iduna,  Gefion, 
Sjofn,  Vor,  Eir,  Lofn,  Saga.  Fulla.  Lin  och  Gna. 

The  representatives  of  Evil  were:  Loke,  Hel,  the  Midgard- 
dragon,  and  the  Fenris-wolf. 

The  story  of  the  creation  is  the  following  one:  A  great  abyss 
(Ginunga-gap)  existed  in  the  beginning  between  the  world  of 
light  and  fire  (Muspelhem)  to  the  South  and  the  world  of  darkness 
and  cold  (Niflhem)  to  the  North.  In  the  latter  was  a  well  (Hver- 
gelmer)  from  which  twelve  rivers,  Eli-waves;  flowed  into  the 
Ginunga-gap.  There  the  frosty  ice  from  Niflhem  was  thawed  out 
by  the  heat  from  Muspelhem,  and  out  of  the  drops  was  formed 
a  being  (Ymer)  who  received  his  life  through  "the  power  of  Him 
who  sent  out  the  heat."  While  he  slept  a  man  and  a  woman 
grew  out  of  his  side,  and  from  his  two  feet  came  a  son.     In  this 

41 


manner  the  P'rost-giants  came  into  existence.  When  Ymer  (mat- 
ter) was  created  by  the  cow  Audumbla  (organic  force)  was  made 
out  of  the  drops  of  the  ice.  After  three  days  Bure  was  made;  he 
received  a  son,  Bor,  who  married  the  daughter  of  a  giant.  They 
had  three  sons,  Oden,  Vile  and  Ve.  These  then  killed  Ymer,  and 
so  great  was  the  quantity  of  blood  that  all  the  Frost-giants  except 
Bergelmer  were  drowned.  He  became  the  father  of  new  fam- 
ilies of  giants.  The  sons  of  Bor  now  took  the  body  of  Ymer,  and 
from  his  f^esh  created  the  earth,  from  his  blood  the  ocean,  from 
his  bones  the  mountains,  from  his  teeth  the  stones,  from  his  hair 
the  trees,  from  his  skull  the  heavens,  and  from  his  eyebrows  the 
Midgard.  The  corners  of  heaven  were  made  to  rest  upon  four 
dwarfs,  called  East,  West,  North,  South.  On  the  heaven  sparks 
from  Muspclhcm  were  fastened  so  at  to  give  light  to  heaven  and 
earth.  Night,  of  the  family  of  the  giants,  and  Delling,  of  the 
family  of  the  gods,  had  a  son,  Day.  Night  and  Day  traveled 
around  the  world  every  twenty-four  hours.  In  their  company 
the  Sun  and  Moon,  children  of  Mundilfor,  were  regularly  to  be 
seen.  The  home  of  the  giants,  Utgard.  was  at  the  extreme  of  the 
ocean,  while  the  domicile  of  the  gods.  Midgard.  was  located  in 
the  central  part  of  the  earth.  In  Midgard  was  found  the  city 
Asgard,  with  the  palaces  of  \'in-golf  and  Gladhem.  and  the  great 
\'alhall.  From  Midgard  a  bridge,  Bifrost  (the  rainbow),  led  to 
heaven.  Upon  this  bridge  the  gods  daily  stepped  down  to  the 
earth  to  dispense  justice  at  the  well  of  Urd.  In  the  nether  world, 
the  "underground,"  was  found  the  home  of  Hel  (the  woe,  \'e,  of 
Hel  makes  the  Swedish  word  helvete— hell).  All  evil  persons  and 
all  who  did  not  die  in  the  war  or  by  a  violent  death,  came  to  this 
place.  From  two  trees.  Ask  and  Embla.  growing  on  the  shores 
of  the  ocean,  the  gods  created  men.  They  were  allowed  to  live 
within  the  limits  of  Midgard.  the  home  of  the  gods. 

The  tree.  Yggdrasil.  an  ash.  was  the  holiest  meeting-place  of 
the  gods.  This  tree  spread  its  branches  over  the  whole  world, 
and  reached  into  heaven.  In  the  top  of  the  tree  was  a  wise  eagle, 
and  between  its  eyes  a  hawk.  In  the  tree  were  four  deer,  eating 
its  buds,  and  a  squirrel,  always  running  up  and  down,  trying  to 
create  bad  feelings  between  the  eagle  and  the  great  serpent,  Nid- 
hogg.  in  the  well.  Hvergelmer.  in  Niflhem.  where  he  kept  gnaw- 
ing upon  one  of  the  three  roots  of  Yggdrasil.  Another  root  went 
out  to  the  giants,  and  below  it  was  the  well  of  IMimer,  containing 
wisdom  and  insight.     The  third  root  proceeded  to  the  gods  and 

42 


to  man.  There  the  well  of  Urd  was  found,  and  there  the  three 
Nornor  (Fates),  Urd  (the  Past),  \'erdandi  (the  Present),  and 
Skuld  (the  Future)  decided  the  irrevocable  fate  of  both  men  and 
gods. 

Oden  was  the  oldest  and  most  respected  of  the  gods,  the  All- 
Father.  Wednesday — Oden's  day — is  named  after  him.  Thor 
was  the  god  of  power  (Thursday  bears  his  name).  Frej  was  the 
god  of  harvest  and  weather.  Friday  reminds  us  of  this  god. 
Balder,  the  god  of  innocence  and  goodness,  was  the  great  favorite 
among  the  gods,  and  the  Balder-myth  is  of  undying  interest  in 
the  history  of  Norsemen.  Xjord  was  the  god  of  the  mariner  and 
fisherman.  Heimdall  was  the  faithful  watchman  of  the  gods. 
His  trumpet,  Gjallarhorn,  could  be  heard  all  over  the  world.  Tyr 
w^as  the  god  of  warfare — so  was  Oden;  Brage  the  god  of  poetry 
and  oratory.  Uller  w'as  the  god  of  the  duel,  and  Forsete  was  the 
great  arbitrator,  the  lover  of  good  will  among  men. 

Of  the  goddesses  Frigg  was  the  wife  of  Oden.  She  knew  all 
the  fates,  but  could  keep  quiet.  Frigga  was  the  goddess  of  love, 
Iduna  guarded  the  apples  of  eternal  youth,  Gefion  received  allwho 
died  as  maidens,  Yor  stood  up  for  truth,  and  punished  men  and 
women  who  did  not  keep  their  promises,  Sjofn  made  men  and 
women  love  one  another,  Lofn  removed  all  obstacles  for  true  lov- 
ers, Eir  understood  medicine,  and  Saga  was  the  goddess  of  his- 
tory. 

The  Norsemen  had  temples  in  which  they  worshipped  their 
gods.  The  principal  one  was  at  Upsala,  Sweden.  Ancient 
authors  speak  of  it  as  a  very  costly  and  impressive  edifice.  ''The 
walls  and  roof  were  covered  with  gold."  (i)  The  worship  of  the 
Norsemen  consisted  chiefly  in  sacrifices  and  sacred  promises. 
Three  great  festivals  were  annually  held  at  Upsala,  October  14, 
January  12,  and  April  14.  The  usual  sacrifices  w^ere  animals,  but 
sometimes  when  the  peril  or  troubles  were  exceedingly  great,  even 
the  king  himself  was  sacrificed  (2).  Every  farmer  was  a  priest; 
the  king  was  the  chief  priest. 

The  Christian  religion  was  introduced  into  Sweden  by  Ansgar. 
King  Bjorn  gave  him  full  permission  to  preach  the  gospel  of 
Christ  in  830.     Sigfrid  is  another  of  Sweden's  most  noted  Chris- 


(i).     Adam  of  Bremen:     "Totum  ex  auro  paratum." 
(2).     Ane  the  Old  is  said  to  have  sacrificed  nine  of  his  sons.     Hakon 
Jarl  sacrificed  his  son  Erling  before  a  great  battle  in  995. 

43 


tian  pioneers.  Olof  Skotkonung  was  baptized  by  Sigfrid  in  1007, 
and  was  the  first  Christian  king  of  Sweden.  The  author  has 
visited  the  spring  where  the  ceremony  was  performed  in  Vester- 
gothland.  In  the  beginning  of  the  eleventh  century  Denmark 
had  become  a  Chirslian  country.  In  Norway  the  kings  Olof 
Tryggveson  and  Olof  Haraldson,  the  holy,  worked  industriously 
for  the  conversion  of  the  people.  They  sometimes  used  force. 
This  enraged  the  Viking  blood.  Olof  died  at  Stiklestad  in  1030. 
His  death  accomplished  more  than  his  life.  Norway  soon  after- 
ward became  a  Christian  country.  The  three  countries  accepted 
the  doctrine  of  the  Lutheran  Reformation  at  an  early  day,  and 
have  since  been  faithful  to  the  Church  of  the  Reformation.  They 
are  today  pre-eminently  the  Protestant  countries  of  the  world,  the 
per  cent  of  other  believers  being  imperceptibly  small  (3). 

The  \'ikings  were  sea-warriors.  Scandinavia  is  so  circum- 
scribed by  water  that  the  ocean  easily  and  naturally  became  the 
second  native  home  of  the  sturdy  sons  of  the  North.  Al- 
though agriculture  and  domestic  arts  were  prized  very  highly 
among  the  Norsemen,  the  spirit  of  adventure  would  not  allow  the 
men  and  youth  of  the  nation  only  to  stay  at  home  in  peaceful 
pursuits.  The  whole  training  of  the  boys  and  young  men  rather 
prepared  them  for  deeds  of  strength  and  valor.  Their  educa- 
tion was  athletic.  To  fence  with  swords,  to  throw  spears,  to 
shoot  with  bow  and  arrow,  to  throw  with  slings,  to  ride,  swim, 
run,  jump,  climb,  wrestle,  skate,  skee  and  play  ball  were  the 
common  accomplishments.  A  life  of  ease  was  shunned.  The 
maiden  would  not  marry  a  man  who  stayed  at  home,  who  had 
achieved  no  glory.     As  warriors  the  Norsemen  had  no  superiors, 

(3).  The  relative  value  of  Protestantism,  and  more  especially  oi 
Lutheranism,  can  easily  be  seen  in  the  comparative  statistics  of  these  three 
northern  countries  and  of  the  three  southern  continental  countries,  Italy, 
Spain  and  Portugal.  Let  us  begin  with  illiteracy.  In  the  three  Scandi- 
navian countries  the  per  cent  has  dwindled  down  to  a  fraction  of  one 
per  cent.  In  Italy  it  is  53,  in  Spain  72,  and  in  Portugal  probably  still 
larger.  In  Italy  there  are  2.470  murders  in  a  year;  in  Spain,  1,200;  in  the 
Scandinavian  countries  murder  is  of  very  rare  occurrence,  so  rare  that 
I  can  find  no  statistics  thereof.  Who  has  not  heard  of  the  multitude  of 
tramps  and  beggars  in  the  southern  European  countries  mentioned?  The 
writer  was  a  tourist  for  four  months  in  the  three  Scandinavian  countries, 
and  in  that  time  saw  one  beggar  and  no  tramps.  In  the  Scandinavian 
countries  tramping  and  begging  are  not  tolerated;  Education  and  Religion 
flourish;  and  the  general  condition  is  very  superior.  Let  us  in  free  Amer- 
ica remember  that  an  open  Bible  is  the  condition  for  all  true  forms  of 
liberty,  44 


and  they  were  especially  at  home  on  the  sea.  The  French  his- 
torian Thierry  says:  'The  Viking  could  govern  a  vessel  as  a 
good  rider  manages  his  horse,  running  over  the  oars  while  they 
were  in  motion.  He  could  throw  three  javelins  to  the  mast- 
liead  and  catch  them  alternately  in  his  hand  without  once  miss- 
ing. Equal  under  such  a  chief,  supporting  lightly  their  voluntary 
submission,  and  the  weight  of  their  coat-of-mail,  which  they 
promised  themselves  would  soon  be  exchanged  for  an  equal 
vv eight  of  gold,  the  pirates  held  their  course  gayly,  as  their  old 
songs  express  it,  along  the  track  of  the  swans.  Often  were  their 
fragile  barks  wrecked  and  dispersed  by  the  North  Sea  storm, 
often  did  the  rallying  sign  remain  unanswered,  but  this  neither 
increased  the  cares  nor  diminished  the  confidence  of  the  sur- 
vivors, who  laughed  at  the  winds  and  waves  from  which  they 
had  escaped  unhurt.  Their  song  in  the  midst  of  the  tempest 
was: 

"The  force  of  the  storm  helps  the  arms  of  our  rowers, 
The  hurricane  is  carrying  us  the  way  which  we  should  go." 

The  following  brief  summary,  based  principally  upon  Dr. 
Enander's  works,  w'ill  show  how  great  and  widespread  was  the 
ififluence  of  the  Norse  Vikings  (i).  In  449  warriors  from  the 
Danish  and  Saxon  shores  of  the  North  Sea  came  to  England  to 
assist  the  Britons  against  the  Picts  and  Scots.  The  latter  were 
defeated,  but  the  auxiliary  army  then  turned  against  the  Britons 
and  forced  them,  after  hostilities  extending  more  or  less  over 
two  centuries,  to  flee  to  Wales  and  Bretagne.  The  victors,  many 
of  whom  undoubtedly  were  Norsemen,  called  themselves  Anglo- 
Saxons.  They  divided  the  vanquished  country  into  seven  king- 
doms, which  were  finally  united  into  one,  named  England,  in  827. 
Already  in  753  Norse  Vikings  visited  this  country,  and  the 
Norsemen,  in  England  called  Danes,  afterwards  often  terrorized 

(i).  Montesquieu,  L'Esprit  de  Lois:  "The  great  prerogative  of 
Scandinavia,  and  what  ought  to  recommend  its  inhabitants  beyond  every 
people  upon  the  earth,  is,  that  they  afforded  the  great  resource  to  the 
liberty  of  Europe,  that  is,  to  almost  all  the  liberty  that  is  among  men. 
The  Goth  Jornandc,"  adds  he,  "calls  the  north  of  Europe  the  forge  of 
mankind.  I  should  rather  call  it  the  forge  of  those  instruments  which 
broke  the  fetters  manufactured  in  the  south.  It  was  there  those  valiant 
nations  were  bred  who  left  their  native  climes  to  destroy  tyrants  and 
slaves,  and  so  teach  men  that  nature  having  made  them  equal,  no  reason 
could  be  assigned  for  their  becoming  dependent  but  their  mutual  hap- 
piness." 

45 


the  inhabitants.     They  settled  in  the  northern  pan  of  the  coun- 
try and  forced  Alfred  the  Great  and  his  associates  to  leave  the 
kingdom.     Finally  Alfred  became  ^^ctorious.  but  he  was  unable 
to  drive  the  Norsemen  away  from  the  northern  provinces.    They 
could  neither  be  bribed  to  leave,  nor  did  a  massacre  upon  them 
prove  successful  in  accomplishing  the  same  purpose.     The  Xorse 
\iking5  came  to  France  already  prior  to  the  death  of  Oiarles 
the  Great  in  Si 4-     In  911  Gange  Rolf  from  XorNvay  conquered 
the  country  of  lower  Seine,  which  afterwards  was  named  Xor- 
mandie,  and  Bretagne  also  became  subject  to  him.     The  eastern 
ponion  of  Ireland  was  subjugated,  and  the  power  of  the  Norse- 
men lasted  until   1172.     The  Hebrides.  Orkney.  Shetland  and 
Faroe  Islands  were  also  vanquished.     The  shores  of  Scotland. 
Belgium  and  Holland  were  invaded.     Iceland  was  discovered  by 
a  Swede.  Gardar  Svafarsson.  in  861.  and  was  settled  by  Norse- 
men. 874-934-     Not  long  after  the  settling  of  Iceland.  Greenland 
was  discovered.     Spain  received  several  visits  from  the  \'ikings 
in  the  ninth  and  tenth  centuries,  and  these  bold  warriors  became 
the  terror  of  the  people  also  on  the  shores  of  Italy  and  .\frica. 
The  great  empire  of  Russia  was  founded  in  the  year  862  b_v 
Rurik.  a  Swedish  warrior  who  emigrated  to   Russia  with   his 
two  brothers  and  founded  a  kingdom  with  Novgorod  as  the  cap- 
ital city.     The  czars  reigning  before  the  year  1598  were  descend- 
ants of  Rurik.     The  fleets  of  the  Russian  Norsemen  soon  threat- 
ened even  Constantinople,  where  some  of  their  former  connec- 
tions formed  the  body  guard  of  the  emperor.     In  about  881  some 
Swedes  and  Friesians  marched  along  the  Rhine  into  the  countr>- 
of  the  Alps  and  founded  Switzerland.     Norsemen  from   Nor- 
mandie  came  to  Italy  and  Sicily  in  1017  to  assist  the  Grecian 
and  Longobardian  princes  in  their  feuds.     After  a  while  these 
French  Norsemen  began  to  acquire  possession  of  the  land  for 
their  o\\-n  benefit.     Their  duke.  Robert  Guiscard.  conquered  the 
entire  southern  half  of  the  countn.-  and  was  recognized  by  the 
Pope  as  Duke  of  Apulia.  Calabria  and  Sicily  in  the  year  1060. 
Sicily  and  Malta  were  conquered  by  Roger,  the  brother  of  Rob- 
ert.      The  latter  now  was  sufficiently  powerful  to  attack  the 
Grecian  emperor,  threaten  Constantinople  and  storm  Rome.  The 
son  of  Roger  \^-as  in  11 30  made  king  of  these  Norse  countries, 
from  this  on  called  "the  two  Sicilys."     From  the  Norse  Nor- 
mandie  William  the  Conqueror,  the  great  grandson  of  Gange 
Rolf,  with  60.000  men  in  1066.  sailed  for  England,  fought  and 

46 


V.  oij  ihe  battle  of  Hastings,  and  vanquished  the  Anglo-Saxons. 
The  language  and  customs  of  Xonnandie  and  France  were  now 
introduced  into  England.  The  name  Englishman  became  an  in- 
sult, and  not  until  the  time  of  Edward  III.  (1377)  was  English 
again  used  in  the  courts  of  justice  of  that  countn*. 

Is  it  improbable  then  that  a  people  of  such  migratory,  w^ar- 
like  habits,  of  such  varied  and  powerful  connections,  of  such 
undoubted  and  unparalled  courage,  should  find  the  way  across 
the  might\^  deep  to  the  American  continent  centuries  before 
Columbus?     Let  histon.-  answer. 

The  small  and  numerous  kingdoms  in  the  Xortii  were  by 
and  by  merged  into  larger  ones,  until  one  king  ruled  in  Den- 
mark, one  in  Sweden  and  one  in  Xorway.  Many  of  the  van- 
quished princes  and  mighty  men  then  emigrated,  preferring  vol- 
untarj^  expatriation  to  dependence.  Large  numbers  of  the  \  i- 
kings,  for  so  long  a  time  the  terror  of  all  Europe,  were  just  such 
men.  Their  numbers  sometimes  corresponded  to  their  valor. 
They  were  not  a3wa\'S,  by  far,  only  a  handful  of  men.  Holm- 
berg  estimates  the  number  of  Swedish  ships  apart  from  the  Dan- 
ish and  Norwegian,  during  the  \'iking  age.  at  io,ocx),  each  bein^ 
manned,  on  an  average,  by  eighty  warriors.  Olaf  Tr}'ggveson*s 
ship  measured  148  feet  in  length  and  carried  about  1,000  men  (i  ). 

We  have  already  referred  to  the  discover)-  of  Iceland  b\-  a 
Swede.  Gardar  Svafarsson,  in  861.  Another  Viking,  Flocke 
Vigerdeson,  gave  the  island  its  present  name.  The  colonization 
was  begun  in  874,  during  the  reign  of  Harald  Harfager  in  Nor- 
way. Erik  Emundson  and  his  son  Bjom  in  Sweden,  and  Gorm 
the  Old  in  Denmark.  The  usurpation  of  the  first  named  had 
displeased  many  of  the  best  and  most  powerful  of  the  Nor- 
wegians. Rather  than  be  dependent  they  decided  to  emigrate. 
Iceland  became  their  new  countn,-.  To  these  Nonvegians  many 
Swedes  were  added.  One  of  them  was  the  ancestor  of  the  great 
Icelandic  historian,  Snorre  Sturlesson.  Iceland  became  an  aris- 
tocratic republic  \i-ith  ideal  conditions  in  many  respects. 

The  ocean  was  the  great  seat  of  action  of  the  Icelander.  Vi- 
king-expeditions  and  later  commerce  became  his  favorite  occu- 
pations.    Icelandic  braves  and  Icelandic  poets  could  be  seen  at 


:  Z-.-der:  "Already  ib  A.  D.  98  Tadtos,  the  Roman  Mstorian, 
saj-s:  "The  Swedes  were  powerfiil  in  men,  arms  and  ship?'" — Fleets  of 
600  or  TtX)  ships  are  freqaently  mentioned.  The  fleet  of  Knut  the  Great, 
in  his  attack  on  Xorvray,  numbered  1,440  ships. 

47 


the  court  of  kings  and  princes  in  all  of  Xorthern  Europe.  The 
poets  of  this  interesting  little  island  were  in  possession  of  the 
best  education  of  their  age;  the  warriors  were  unsurpassed  in 
daring  bravery.  On  their  return  home  to  Iceland  they  brought 
with  them  from  the  many  countries  visited  not  only  material 
wealth,  but  also  intellectual.  After  the  introduction  of  the  Chris- 
tion  religion  in  the  year  looo,  Iceland  soon  established  not  less 
than  four  colleges,  and  many  of  their  alumni  and  students  later 
attended  the  best  universities  of  France,  Germany  and  England. 
The  first  bisliops  of  Iceland  were  trained  at  foreign  universities 
and  sustained  friendly  relations  with  the  most  learned  men  of 
Europe  in  their  day.  Some  of  the  farmers  wore  very  scholarly 
men,  "sufficiently  learned  to  be  ministers." 

From  this  courageous,  well  educated,  well-disciplined  people 
came  the  first  discoverers  of  America. 

It  is  interesting  to  notice  the  almost  Utopian  conditions  exist- 
ing in  Iceland  up  to  this  day  as  far  as  education,  religion,  lit- 
erature, government  and  general  culture  are  concerned.  It  is 
now  as  before  a  veritable  little  wonderland.  Illiteracy  is  un- 
known. There  are  a  number  of  high-schools  throughout  the 
country,  two  ladies'  seminaries,  and  the  Latin  school  at  Reykjavik 
with  a  five  years*  course,  preparing  the  students  for  entering  the 
univer.^iity  at  Copenhagen.  Fight  general,  several  religious  and 
one  temperance  paper  are  published,  also  three  magazines.  The 
Icelanders  are  Protestants  and  Lutherans.  They  are  probably 
the  most  loyal,  innocent,  pure-minded  people  of  the  world.  Crime, 
theft,  debauchery  and  cruelty  arc  almost  unknown  among  them. 
The  annual  exports  are  six  million  pounds  of  codfish,  seven 
thousand  pounds  of  eider-down,  about  five  thousand  head  of 
ponies,  and  nearly  one-half  million  sheep.  The  population  num- 
bers 78,000  people  (2). 

(.2).  Ruth  ShafTncr:  "Nothing  cin  be  more  dcliKhtful  than  a  horse- 
back trip  of  800  or  1,000  miles  through  Iceland.  Tlie  traveler  sees  thou- 
sands of  mountains  covered  with  eternal  snow  outrivaling  the  .'Xlps  in 
grandeur;  great  geysers  and  innumberable  hot  wells;  waterfalls,  one  of 
which — the  Gullfoss — is  second  only  to  Niagara  in  size  and  beauty; 
crystal  streams  and  dashing  rivers,  lava  beds  of  fantastic  figures,  covered 
with  moss  that  glistens  in  the  sun  like  hoar  frost;  and  as  a  crowning 
glory  the  atmosphere  is  so  brilliant  that  objects  eighty  miles  distant 
appear  close  at  hand.  The  effects  of  light  and  shadow  are  the  purest  I 
have  ever  seen,  and  the  contrast  of  color  is  truly  astonishing;  one 
square  foot  of  a  mountain  juts  out  in  a  blaze  of  gold  against  the  flank 
of  another,  dyed  of  the  darkest  purple,  while  up  against  the  azure  sky 
beyond  rise  peaks  of  glistening  snow  and  ice." 

48 


(iKNKNAI.   OUANTS    MAUSOL^ 


About  the  year  876  or  878,  shortly  after  the  discovery  of  Ice- 
land, one  Gunbjorn  was  driven  by  untoward  winds  to  a  sterile 
and  lonely  island.  He  succeeded  in  saving  himself  as  well  as 
the  ship  and  returned  to  Iceland,  where  he  related  about  seeing  a 
land  with  great,  white  mountains  north  of  the  little  island. 
Nearly  a  hundred  years  later  two  Icelanders  made  a  successful 
attempt  to  find  Gunbjorns-skar.  In  982  or  984  Erik  the  Red, 
outlawed  for  murder  from  Iceland,  and  hailing  either  from  Nor- 
way or  probably  from  Bohus  province  in  Sweden,  sailed  for  this 
nameless  country,  deciding  to  spend  his  three  years  of  expatria- 
tion there.  After  a  journey  of  about  250  miles,  he  passed  the 
present  Cape  Farewell  and  along  the  west  shore  of  the  island 
to  the  present  Julianes-haab.  He  spent  the  three  years  in  the 
new  country  and  named  it  Greenland,  in  order  to  attract  settlers, 
as  he  expressed  it  himself,  and  probably  also  because  of  its  green 
pastures.  In  the  Spring  of  986  Erik  returned  to  Greenland  with 
25  ships,  with  a  cargo  of  men,  cattle  and  provisions.  Fourteen 
of  these  ships  reached  their  destination.  The  first  colony  was 
planted.  It  prospered  greatly.  The  fisheries  were  excellent. 
Ships  of  commerce  soon  began  to  visit  Greenland,  and  the  Green- 
landers  themselves  traversed  "known  and  unknown  seas."  It 
seems  that  the  climate  was  milder  than  now,  and  the  colonies  in 
consequence  penetrated  quite  far  into  the  inland.  At  the  height 
of  their  prosperity  there  existed,  according  to  Icelandic  authority, 
280  larger  or  smaller  settlements,  with,  at  least,  17  churches  and 
several  cloisters.  In  the  year  1000  already  Leif  Eriksson  had 
been  sent  by  King  Olof  of  Norway  to  proclaim  Christianity  in 
Greenland.  In  the  year  11 12  one  Erik  became  bishop  of  this 
country.  This  same  Erik  was  in  1121  ordained  bishop  of  Vin- 
land  by  the  bishop  of  Lund,  Sweden,  and  went  thither,  accom- 
panied by  clergymen  and  colonists.  In  1126  Greenland  received 
its  own  ordained  bishop  in  the  person  of  one  Arnold.  He  was 
succeeded  by  14  other  bishops,  known  to  ecclesiastical  history 
(i).  In  1408  Andreas,  the  last  bishop  of  Greenland,  was  or- 
dained by  Bishop  Eskil  in  Norway. 

As  Greenland  belongs  to  the  American  continent  as  much  as 
the  West  Indies,  Gunbjorn  was  the  first  known  European  who 
landed  in  this  country.  It  took  place  about  876,  or  616  years 
before  Columbus  discovered  the  West  Indies. 

(i).  Torfoeus  gives  a  list  of  seventeen  bishops  who  ruled  in  Green- 
land. 

53 


The  Icelandic  authorities  early  speak  of  a  Great-Iceland  (is- 
land it  miklaK  Several  scholars  believe  this  to  be  the  country 
south  of  the  Chesapeake  Bay.  To  this  country  an  Icelander  of 
Swedish  origin,  Are  Marson.  was  storm-driven  in  983,  afterwards 
living  there  until  his  death.  Another  Icelander,  Bjorn  Asbrand- 
son,  coming  there  later,  contrived  to  become  chief  of  a  tribe  of 
natives,  and  1027  sent  word  to  Iceland  through  a  third  Icelander, 
Gudlief  Gudlogsson,  who  had  also  been  storm  driven  to  the 
shores  of  our  continent. 

In  986  an  Icelander,  Bjame  Harjulfsson  was  storm-driven 
towards  an  unknown  shore.  By  the  description  of  the  journey 
he  must  on  the  return  have  sailed  by  Massachusetts,  Nova 
Scotia,  Newfoundland,  finally  arriving  at  Greenland.  Bjarne  went 
to  Norway  and  related  the  story  of  his  adventure  to  Leif  Eriks- 
son, son  of  Erik  the  Red.  who  about  the  year  looo  sailed  to 
explore  the  unknown  country  in  company  with  thirty-five  men. 
After  passing  Labrador.  Newfoundland  and  Nova  Scotia.  Leif 
and  his  associates  arrived  at  the  shores  of  New  England.  They 
sailed  into  a  sound,  then  into  a  river,  then  into  a  lake,  which  is 
Mount  Hope  Bay,  often  yet  taken  by  the  tourist  to  be  a  lake. 
They  remained  through  the  winter,  built  a  large  house,  found 
the  climate  milder  than  at  home,  and  the  days  of  more  equal 
length,  the  shortest  day  being  nine  hours  long,  which  gives 
41°  24'  10"  as  the  latitude  of  the  place,  or  near  Fall  River,  Massa- 
chusetts. Leif  called  the  country  X'inland,  because  a  German, 
or  "Southerner,"  in  one  of  his  extended  walks  had  run  across 
some  wild  grapes,  or  "Weintrauben,  Weintrauben,"  as  he  ex- 
claimed in  great  excitement  on  his  return  to  the  camp.  In  the 
spring  Leif  loaded  his  ships  with  lumber  and  returned  to  Green- 
land. Leif  Eriksson  was  the  first  white  man  sailing  with  the 
avowed  purpose  of  finding  land  across  the  Atlantic.  He  did  not 
discover  America  by  accident.  His  purpose  was  as  well  known 
to  himself,  his  people  and  his  friends  as  was  that  of  Columbus  in 
1492. 

On  his  return  Leif's  brother,  Thor\-ald  Eriksson  (i),  thought 
that  the  land  discovered  was  not  sufficiently  explored.     Leif  gave 

(i).  Baldwin:  "This,  considering  the  circumstances,  was  an  adven- 
turous voyage,  a  brave  e.xploring  e.xpedition  sent  from  the  Arctic  regions 
to  make  discoveries  in  the  mysterious  world  at  the  South.  On  reading 
the  narrative,  one  longs  for  that  more  ample  account  of  the  voyage,  which 
would  have  been  given,  if  Thorwald  himself  had  lived  to  return." 

54 


him  his  own  ships,  and  in  1002  Thorvald  sailed  with  a  company 
of  thirty  men.  He  arrived  safely  and  remained  over  the  winter. 
In  the  first  encounter  with  the  natives,  he  was  wounded  and 
died  (2).  His  associates  returned  to  Greenland.  The  third 
brother,  Thorsten,  then  decided  to  journey  to  Mnland,  that  he 
might  bring  back  the  remains  of  his  brother  and  have  them 
buried  in  consecrated  ground.  He  was  tossed  about  on  the  deep 
during  all  the  summer  of  1005,  and  finally  landed  on  the  western 
coast  of  Greenland,  where  Thorsten  and  many  of  his  associates 
died  during  the  winter. 

His  beautiful  widow,  Gudrid,  married  Thorfinn  Karlsefne. 
The  newly  married  couple  decided  to  emigrate  to  \'inland.  Thor- 
finn  was  of  noble  family,  several  of  his  ancestors  having  been 
elected  kings.  Three  ships  belonged  to  the  expedition.  The 
first  was  commanded  by  Snorre  Thorbrandsson.  the  second  by 
Bjarne  Grimulfsson  and  Thorhall  Gamlason.  and  the  third  by 
Thorwald,  married  to  Leif's  sister,  the  fierce,  cold-blooded  Frodis. 
The  party  consisted  of  151  men  and  seven  women.  On  their 
arrival  to  America  Thorhall  and  a  few  men  returned,  making  the 
company  now  number  151  persons.  They  finally  arrived  safely 
at  the  place  where  Leif  Eriksson  had  built  his  house  in  the  year 
1000. 

In  the  spring  of  1008  the  Norseman  made  a  treaty  with  the 
natives  (Skraelingar).  The  same  summer  a  son — the  first  white 
child  of  the  new  continent,  the  first  native-born  X'ew  Englander 
— was  born  to  Thorfinn  and  Gudrid.  In  baptism  he  received 
the  name  Snorre,  and  became  the  ancestor  of  many  distinguished 
men,  among  whom  may  be  mentioned  the  celebrated  Icelandic- 
Danish  sculptor,  Albert  Thorwaldsen  (1844).  The  natives  soon 
became  inimical,  and  in  loii,  the  colonists  returned  to  Green- 
land.    The  attempt  at  colonization  was  unsuccessful. 

The  inscription  on  the  Dighton  Writing  Rock  on  the  right 
bank  of  Taunton  river  in  Bristol  county,  Massachusetts,  reads: 
"Thorfinn,  with  one  hundred  and  fifty  one  Xorse  seafaring  men 
took  possession  of  this  land."  The  form  of  a  woman  and  the 
letter  S.  remind  one  very  forcibly  of  Gudrid  and  Snorre. 

In  the  neighborhood  of  Xewport.  R.  I.,  is  found  an  ancient 
stone  tower,  25  feet  high,  resting  upon  eight  round  pillars,  each 

(2).  Anderson:  "Let  us  remember  Thorwald  Erikson,  the  first 
European  and  the  first  Christian  who  was  buried  beneath  American 
sod." 

55 


over  three  feet  in  diameter,  and  seven  feet  nine  inches  in  height. 
The  diameter  of  the  building  is  eighteen  feet,  nine  inches.  The 
pecuHar  structure  is  of  the  same  architectural  style  as  many 
churches  of  the  12th  century,  and  Rafn  believes  upon  a  very 
strong  historical  probability  that  the  Newport  tower  has  been 
a  chapel  of  a  cloister  or  church,  built  by  the  Norsemen  (i). 

Other  expeditions  to  \inland  took  place  from  time  to  time. 
Colonies  were  founded  in  several  places.  The  expeditions  also 
reached  further  South,  to  the  Carolinas.  Georgia  and  Florida. 
The  last  expedition  took  place  in  1347.  or  130  years  only  before 
Columbus  visited  Iceland.  Columbus  himself  speaks  of  his  jour- 
ney in  a  letter  quoted  by  Washington  Irving  (2). 

The  question  of  the  authenticity  of  the  above  is  well  settled. 
The  fact  that  the  Norsemen  discovered  America  can  no  longer 
be  doubted.  Adam  of  Bremen  already  in  1075  says  that  "he  had 
knowledge  of  \'inland,  not  by  fabulous  guesses,  but  through 
the  most  positive  information  from  the  Danes."  The  manu- 
scripts containing  the  Sagas  relating  to  America  are  contained 
in  the  well-known  Codex  Flatoeensis,  finished  in  the  year  1387. 
I*:  is  still  found  in  the  archives  of  Copenhagen  in  its  integrity. 
Ecclesiastical  history  adds  its  testimony,  and  the  literature  on  the 
subject  is  very  voluminous.  (See  Bibliography  of  Pre-Colum- 
bian Discoveries  of  America  in  Prof.  Rasmus  B.  Anderson's 
"America  Not  Discovered  by  Columbus,"  pp.  124-140,  and  also 
in  Dr.  Enandcr's  United  States  History,  Vol.  i,  p.  52).  Alex- 
ander von  Humboldt  in  the  Cosmos,  Vol.  2,  pp.  269-272,  states 
among  other  things:  "The  discovery  of  the  northern  part  of 
America  by  the  Norsemen  cannot  be  disputed.  The  length  of 
the  voyage,  the  direction  in  which  they  sailed,  the  time  of  the 
sun's  rising  and  setting,  are  accurately  given.  While  the  Chalifat 
of  Bagdad  was  still  flourishing  under  the  Abasides  and  while 
the  rule  of  Samanides,  so  favorable  to  poetry,  still  flourished  in 

(i).  Anderson:  "The  Newport  Tower  was,  as  the  Indians  told  the 
early  settlers,  built  by  the  giants,  and  the  Norse  discoverers  certainly 
looked  like  giants  to  the  natives." 

Ridpath,  History  of  the  World,  II.,  554:  'The  Norse  remains 
which  have  been  found  at  Newport,  at  Garnet  Point,  and  several  other  places 
seem  to  point  clearly  to  continued  occasional  voyages  by  the  Northmen." 

(2).  Anderson  calls  attention  to  the  fact  that  the  son  of  Columbus, 
Fernando  Columbo,  in  the  biography  of  his  father,  Chapter  IV.,  speaks 
of  the  latter's  visit  to  Iceland.  Columbus  himself  based  his  conviction, 
so  he  says,  "on  the  authority  of  the  learned  writers." 

56 


Persia,  America  was  discovered  about  the  year  looo,  by  Leif,  son 
of  Erik  the  Red,  at  about  411°  N.  L."  (3). 

(3).  Baldwin  Ancient  America,  p.  284:  "It  appears  to  be  an  authenti- 
cated fact  that  the  Northmen  had  a  settlement  or  settlements  in  New 
England  six  hundred  years  previous  to  the  arrival  of  English  settlers." 

Brownell:  "It  has  been  made  evident,  that  the  American  continent 
five  centuries  before  the  memorable  voyage  of  Columbus,  was  discovered 
and  frequently  visited  by  men  of  European  race,  by  Northmen." 

Baldwin:  "These  narratives  are  plain,  straightforward,  business-like 
accounts  of  actual  voyages  made  by  Northmen  in  the  tenth  and  eleventh 
centuries  to  Greenland,  Newfoundland,  Nova  Scotia,  and  the  coast  of 
Massachusetts  and  Rhode  Island.  Within  the  whole  range  of  the  litera- 
ture of  discovery  and  adventure  no  volumes  can  be  found  which  have 
more  abundant  internal  evidence  of  authenticity." 

Joseph  Story  Fay:  "It  is  now  well  established  that  in  the  tenth 
century  the  Norsemen  visited  this  country,  and  coasting  down  from 
Greenland,  passed  along  Cape  Cod,  through  Vineyard  Sound  to  Narra- 
gansett  Bay,  where  it  is  believed  they  settled.  In  the  neighborhood  of 
Assonet  and  Dighton,  inscriptions  upon  the  rocks  have  been  found,  and 
traditions  exist  that  there  were  others,  which  have  been  destroyed." 

Adam  of  Bremen,  canon  and  historian,  t  1076.  "There  is  a  region 
which  has  been  visited  by  many,  lying  in  that  ocean  (the  Atlantic),  which 
is  called  Vinland,  because  vines  grow  there  spontaneously,  producing 
very  good  wine;  corn  likewise  springs  up  there  without  being  sown. 
This  we  know  not  by  fabulous  conjecture,  but  from  positive  statements 
of  the  Danes." 

Ridpath,  History  of  the  World,  II.,  p.  553:  "Since  1838,  when  through 
the  efforts  of  Rafu  and  the  Royal  Society  of  Copenhagen  the  Scandi- 
navian Sagas  have  been  submitted  to  the  critical  judgment  of  Europe, 
all  ground  of  doubt  has  been  removed  relative  to  the  Norse  discoveries 
in  the  West  at  the  close  of  the  tenth  and  the  beginning  of  the  eleventh 
century.  It  is  now  conceded  that  Labrador,  Newfoundland,  Nova  Scotia 
and  the  northeastern  parts  of  the  United  States  were  visited,  and,  to  a 
limited  extent,  colonized,  before  the  Norman  Conquest  of  England. 
In  the  year  1000  the  actual  discovery  of  America  was  made  by 
Leif  Erickson." 

Davis:  "Let  us  praise  Leif  Erickson  for  his  courage,  let  us  applaud 
him  for  his  zeal,  let  us  respect  him  for  his  motives,  for  he  was  anxious 
to  enlarge   the  boundaries   of  knowledge.     He   reached   the   wished-for 

land, 

'Where  now  the  western  sun, 

O'er  fields  and  floods, 
O'er  every  living  soul 
Dififuseth  glad  repose.' 

He  opened  to  view  a  broad  region,  where  smiling  hope  invites  succes- 
sive generations  from  the  old  world. — Are  not  the  hardy  adventurers 
plowing  the  briny  deep,  more  attractive  than  the  troops  of  Alexander  and 
Napoleon?" 

57 


As  to  the  practical  results  of  these  discoveries,  not  much  can 
be  said.  The  world  was  seemingly  not  at  that  time  ready  for 
America.  The  enmity  of  the  native  Skraelingar,  the  visitation 
of  the  black  plague  in  Europe  and  her  colonies,  as  well  as  in 
other  parts  of  the  world,  combined  to  annihilate  the  efforts  of 
the  bold  Norsemen 

As  noted  already,  Columbus  visited  Iceland  in  1477.  It  is 
impossible  to  suppose  that  the  expeditions  to  America  by  the 
Norsemen  were  at  that  day  unknown  in  Southern  Europe.  Gud- 
rid,  who  had  lived  in  Mnland  for  three  years,  made  a  pilgrimage 
to  the  Holy  Father  in  Rome,  after  her  return  to  Iceland.  She 
remained  in  "the  eternal  city"  for  quite  a  time.  Is  it.  then, 
probable  that  she  never  spoke  of  the  romantic  \'inland  expedi- 
tions? Can  we  believe  that  the  descendants  of  Snorre.  who  was 
born  in  America,  three  of  whom  (I)rand,  Thorlak  and  Bjorn) 
became  bishops  of  Iceland,  never  informed  the  chief  authority 
of  the  church  concerning  the  attempts  at  colonization  made  by 
their  forefathers  in  the  country  in  which  some  of  their  brethren 
in  the  faith  were  still  living?  Is  it  at  all  probable  that  the  Ice- 
landic Bishop  Jon  left  his  diocese  for  \'inland  without  even  in- 
forming the  Pope  whither  he  went,  or  that  the  Archbishop  of 
Lund  never  reported  his  ordination  of  Bishop  Erik  Upsi  for  Vin- 
land  in  1121?  And  did  not  the  Pope  Paschal  II.  appoint  Erik 
to  this  office  as  early  as  11 12? — Anderson. 

Surely,  then,  Columbus  received  the  impetus  for  his  ambi- 
tious expeditions  from  the  previous  discoveries  by  the  Norse- 
men, to  whom  more  credit  is  due  than  was  ever  accorded  them 
either  by  general  history  or  by  American  history  (4) 

In  1638  Swedish  innnigrants  landed  in  America  again.  New 
Sweden  was  founded  and  several  other  colonies.  The  present 
site  of  Philadelphia  was  once  owned  by  these  Swedish  immi- 
grants. As  late  as  1823  the  Swedish  language  was  used  in  the 
"Gloria  Dei"  church  in  Philadelphia.  Many  of  the  best  families 
in  tlie  east  are  descendants  of  those  colonists  from  the  far  North. 


(4).  Anderson:  "I  have  here  given  five  reasons  why  Columbus  must 
have  known  the  existence  of  the  .American  continent  before  he  started 
on  his  voyage  of  discovery.  i.  Gudrid's  visit  to  Rome.  2.  The 
appointment  of  Pope  Paschal  II..  of  Erik  Upsi  as  Bishop  of  Vinland.  3. 
Adam  of  Bremen's  account  of  Vinland,  in  his  book  published  1073.  4. 
The  map  procured  from  the  Vatican  for  the  Pinzons.  5.  Columbus'  own 
visit  to  Iceland  in  the  year  1477." 

58 


Among  them  may  be  mentioncci  tlie  Bayards,  Childs,  Springers, 
Petersons,  and  others.  Senator  Ingalls  hails  from  the  Norse 
Ingjald,  probably  the  royal  family  of  that  name,  and  Senator 
Thurston  from  the  Norse  family  Thorsten,  both  belonging  to 
the  Norsemen  who  made  England  their  home  centuries  ago.  In 
the  forties  the  immigration  from  the  Scandinavian  countries 
(Sweden,  Norway,  and  Denmark)  again  began.  The  present 
Scandinavian-born  population  in  this  country  was  in  1890  as 
follows:  From  Sweden,  478.041;  Norway,  2^22,(^6^;  Denmark, 
132,543;  or  a  total  of  933.249-  Counting  their  descendants  in 
the  first,  second,  and  third  generations,  the  Scandinavian  popu- 
lation of  the  United  States  today  must  be  somewhat  above  two 
millions  and  a  half,  or  more,  probably  fully  three  millions. 

These  Swedes,  Norwegians,  and   Danes  and  their  children 
have  written  proud  history  in  the  annals  of  our  nation  so  far. 
In  the  civil  war  they  flocked  around  the  stars  and  stripes  with 
great  enthusiasm.     It  was  a  Swede,  John   Ericson,   who  with 
his  Monitor  checked  the  northward  march  of  the  Confederacy. 
They  have  been  industrious,  law-abiding,  and  loyal;  they  have 
built  hundreds  and  hundreds  of  churches  and  school-houses;  they 
have  founded  many  academies,  colleges  and  seminaries,  crowded 
by  thousands  of  young  people,  anxious  to  procure  a  liberal  and 
thorough  education;  they  are  publishing  hundreds  of  newspa- 
pers and  magazines;  they  amalgamate  easily  and  have  come  to 
stay;  they  are  examples  of  a  devoted  patriotism  to  the  country 
of  their  adoption;  they  are  full  of  works  of  mercy  and  good  deeds 
in  general.     The  Central  States,  the  great  West,  would  be  glad 
to  welcome  a  million  more  of  such  splendid  immigrants,  who 
become  good  American  citizens,  loyal,  intelligent,  and  law-abid- 
ing from  the  very  beginning.     They  hold  many  positions  of  trust 
already.     The   Hon.   Knute   Nelson,  a  sturdy   Norwegian,  has 
been  Congressman,  Governor,  and  is  now  United  States  Senator. 
The  Hon.  John  Lind,  a  Swede;  the  Hon.  N.  P.  Haugen,  a  Nor- 
wegian; the  Hon.  Haldor  E.  Boen,  a  Norwegian;  the  Hon.  Mar- 
tin J.  Johnson,  a  Norwegian,  and  the  Hon.  K.  Halvorsen,  a  Nor- 
wegian, have  been  or  are  members  of  Congress.     Congressman 
Claude  A.  Swanson,  of  Virginia,  hails  from  Sweden-England- 
Ireland,  and  retains  the  original  Swedish  name  with  only  the  e 
changed  to  a.     Many  Scandinavians  have  held  or  are  holding 
State  offices.     Prof.   Rasmus   B.  Anderson   has  served  as  our 
Minister  to  Denmark,  and  Dr.  J.  A.  Enander  was  appointed  tp 

59 


the  same  office,  resigning  the  appointment,  however,  on  account 
of  a  serious  illness.  One  of  the  finest  private  libraries  in  this 
country  is  owned  by  a  Swede,  Svante  Palm,  Ph.  D.,  in  Austin, 
Texas.  The  multi-millionaire.  Swen  M.  Swensson,  of  Xew  York, 
was  a  Swede.  The  students  at  the  colleges  of  these  Norsemen 
in  America  are  very  patriotic,  and  at  some  of  the  institutions 
great  patriotic  festivals  belong  to  the  annual  programme.  They 
Itarn  to  speak  English  readily,  and.  in  many  cases — the  late 
Hjalmar  Hjort  Boyesen  being  an  illustrious  example — become 
unusually  proficient  as  writers  and  public  speakers.  All  hail  to 
the  Norsemen  of  our  great  Republic! 

Well,  I  knew  that  you  would  appreciate  this  hour.  How- 
much  better  acquainted  with  Sweden  we  all  feel  now.  We  will 
not  be  strangers  in  landing  upon  the  shores  where  our  fore- 
fathers once  lived.  But  I  must  ask  for  your  forbearance  for  a  few 
minutes  more.  There  is  something  new  to  be  added.  In  volume 
IX.  of  the  American  Church  History  Series,  the  learned  scholar 
Father  Thomas  O'Gorman,  professor  of  church  history  in  the 
Catholic  University  of  North  .America.  Washington,  D.  C.  dis- 
cusses this  question  from  an  ecclesiastical  point  of  view.  Please 
be  seated  while  I  read  a  page  or  two  to  you.  There  is  plenty  of 
time.  The  bugle  for  dinner  will  not  sound  yet  for  an  hour.  Pro- 
fessor O'Gorman  says: 

"But  before  entering  upon  this  study,  a  word  about  an  episode 
which  has  the  enchantment  that  comes  from  distance  of  time,  and 
would  look  like  some  fanciful  myth  did  not  history  give  it  a  cer- 
tainty that  cannot  be  denied.  It  is  the  passage  of  Catholicity  on 
our  shores  four  hundred  years  before  Columbus  gave  to  the  Old 
World  the  lasting  possession  of  America.  The  church  came  and 
went  v>ith  the  Norsemen,  without,  however,  leaving  on  our  land 
any  durable  trace,  so  far  as  our  present  knowledge  goes.  B»t 
the  coming  and  going  are  recorded  in  Norse  literature  and 
Roman  archives. 

The  tenth  and  eleventh  centuries  were  the  period  of  greatest 
activity  for  the  Northmen  of  Scandinavia.  On  the  shores  of 
England,  Ireland,  France,  Italy  and  Greece  their  viking  boats 
poured  out  hordes  of  warriors  who  spread  desolation  far  and  wide 
and  planted  colonies  that  have  entered  into  the  makeupof  Europe. 
Westward,  too,  they  pushed  their  way.  The  islands  of  the  North 
Atlantic,  the  Orkneys,  Shetlands.  and  Faroes,  became  Norse  out- 
posts.    But  it  was  in  Iceland  that  grew  up  their  most  vigorous 

60 


and  renowned  offshoot.  It  was  reached  by  them  in  784.  Very 
soon  there  was  settled  in  that  mid- Atlantic  island  a  population  of 
fifty  thousand  Norsemen,  who  set  up  a  republic  bound  to  the 
mother  country  by  a  very  slender  allegiance.  A  rich  Icelandic 
literature  sprang  up  before  England,  France,  Italy,  and  Spain 
had  come  into  possession  of  their  present  languages.  The  his- 
torical records  of  Iceland  especially  are  unequaled  by  anything 
contemporaneous  elsewhere,  and  hardly  surpassed  by  anything 
done  in  modern  times. 

These  are  our  authorities  for  the  history  of  the  Norse  occu- 
pation of  Greenland,  which  was  discovered  at  the  end  of  the  ninth 
century,  colonized  at  the  end  of  the  tenth  century,  and  Christian- 
ized at  the  beginning  of  the  eleventh  century.  About  one  hun- 
dred years  thereafter  a  bishop  was  assigned  to  the  Greenland 
church.  His  see  was  at  Gardar.  From  the  first  bishop  appointed, 
in  1 1 12,  to  the  last  one  appointed  by  Innocent  \'III.  and  con- 
firmed by  Alexander  VI.  in  1492,  the  year  of  the  discovery  by 
Columbus,  a  period  elapsed  of  three  hundred  and  eighty  years 
of  a  hierarchy — consequently  of  organized  church  life — regular 
and  continuous  down  to  the  year  1409;  fitful  and  interrupted  from 
1409  to  1492.  Between  the  two  extreme  dates,  in  the  palmiest 
period  of  Greenland  Christianity,  there  were  on  its  inhospitable 
shores  one  bishop,  a  cathedral,  fifteen  churches,  four  or  five  mon- 
asteries, and  a  Catholic  population  of  ten  thousand  souls.  This 
information  rests  on  historical  evidence  that  is  irresistible. 

Likewise  it  is  absolutely  certain  that  southwest  of  Greenland 
a  country  was  discovered,  and  for  hundreds  of  years  was  visited 
frequently  and  inhabited  for  periods  of  two  or  three  years  at  a 
time  by  traders  and  missionaries  from  Greenland  and  Iceland — a 
country  known  in  Icelandic  and  other  annals  as  Yinland  the 
Good.  This  is  not  the  place  to  vindicate  the  authenticity  and 
veracity  of  the  sagas,  especially  those  contained  in  the  "Hauks- 
bck"  and  the  "Flateyjarbok."  We  hold  it  as  absolutely  certain 
that  Vinland  was  on  the  American  mainland,  and  as  all  but  abso- 
lutely demonstrated  that  it  was  on  the  New  England  coast.  We 
believe  that  Boston  has  thade  no  mistake  in  raising  a  statue  to 
Leif  Ericsson,  the  discoverer  of  \'inland. 

One  proof,  and  only  one,  is  wanting.  Greenland  is  still  cov- 
ered with  the  ruins  of  churches,  of  monasteries,  and  of  the  homes 
of  Scandinavian  settlers.  But  in  Vinland,  so  far,  no  trace  of 
buildings  has  been  found.     The  archaeological  proof  is  wanting. 

63 


Now  the  truth  is,  the  narrative  of  the  sagas  do  not  call  for 
any  such  corroboration.  Nowhere  do  they  state  that  the  North- 
men made  permanent  settlements  in  Mnland,  but  only  temporary 
visits  for  timber  and  peltries,  or  missionary  voyages  to  evangelize 
for  a  season  the  natives.  Solid  buildings  were  not  necessary  for 
such  sojourns;  it  is  no  wonder,  then,  that  ruins  are  not  to  be 
found,  though  we  fancy  smaller  remains,  such  as  pottery,  tools, 
and  various  implements,  marking  their  passage,  may  yet  be 
unearthed.  And,  moreover,  the  Skraellings — such  was  the  name 
given  by  the  discoverers  to  the  savages  of  \'inland — hindered  the 
permanent  settling  of  the  newcomers.  \'cry  true,  centuries  later 
a  handful  of  Europeans  landed  on  the  very  same  shores  touched 
by  the  Scandinavians  and  drove  the  natives  before  them  into  the 
interior;  but  the  Europeans  had  firearms,  whereas  the  Scandi- 
navians were  almost  matched  in  weapons  of  war  by  the  bow  and 
arrow  and  the  stone  hatchet  of  the  Indian.  We  need  not  wonder 
then  that  no  permanent  Scandinavian  settlements  were  made,  and 
it  is  useless  to  demand  that  we  produce  vestiges  of  them. 

In  a  word,  Vinland  was  civilly  a  trading  post  and  ecclesiasti- 
cally a  missionary  station  of  the  mother  colony  and  church  of 
Greenland.  We  must,  therefore,  expect  to  find  in  ecclesiastical 
history  only  incidental  allusions  to  Vinland  as  an  out-station. 
But  such  allusions,  scant  as  they  may  be,  are  precious  to  the  his- 
torian, and  tell  nnich  to  the  imagination.  We  confess  at  once 
that  we  have  in  the  records  only  such  incidental  allusions  to  the 
work  of  the  church  in  Vinland. 

The  first  bishop  of  Greenland  was  Eric  Gnupson  or  Upsi.  He 
was  appointed  in  1112,  but  was  not  consecrated  until  1120.  The 
"Annales  Regii  Islandorum,"  which  gives  the  history  of  Iceland 
down  to  1307,  informs  us  that  this  bishop  never  went  to  his  duties 
in  Greenland,  but  did  missionary  work  in  \'inland,  where  he  died, 
probably  for  the  faith.  This  statement  hints  that  the  Greenland 
voyagers  had  entered  into  continuous  intercourse  with  the  natives, 
and  that  the  work  of  evangelizing  them  was  attempted.  Cranz 
goes  so  far  as  to  say  that  from  mo  to  the  time  of  Bishop  Upsi 
(1120),  Scandinavian  colonists  lived  in  Vinland,  and  that  they  had 
become  merged  by  intermarriage  in  the  surrounding  tribes. 

In  1246,  under  Bishop  Olaf,  the  seventh  incumbent  of  Gardar, 
the  holy  see  asked  the  Peter  pence  from  Greenland.  And  from 
this  time  forward  we  find  Greenland  mentioned  by  name  and 
Vinland  by  implication  only  in  various  documents  regarding  the 

64 


Peter  pence  of  the  diocese  of  Gardar,  as  well  as  in  the  accounts 
of  the  collectors  contained  in  the  financial  records  of  the  Vatican. 
The  Archbishop  of  Drontheim,  appointed  in  1276  to  make  the 
collection,  applied  to  Pope  John  XXI.  for  permission  to  send 
collectors  in  his  stead,  giving  as  reasons  the  distance  and  the 
length  of  time  that  he  would  have  to  be  absent  from  his  see  in 
Norway.  In  consequence  Nicholas  III.  in  1279  granted  extraor- 
dinary faculties  to  the  collectors  appointed  by  the  Archbishop  of 
Drontheim. 

We  gather  from  a  bull  of  ^lartin  \T.  in  1282  that  the  tithes  of 
the  diocese  of  Gardar  were  paid  in  produce  of  the  country — teeth 
of  walrus,  hides,  and  furs;  that  they  were  shipped  to  Norway,  and 
there  converted  by  sale  into  current  money.  But  what  interests 
us  most  is  that  in  the  bull  of  1279,  dispensing  the  Archbishop  of 
Drontheim  from  a  personal  visit  to  Greenland,  and  delegating  his 
appointees  thereto,  we  read  the  following  words:  "To  collect  the 
tithes  and  the  products  of  the  communes,  as  well  in  the  diocese  of 
Gardar  as  in  the  islands  and  neighboring  territories."  From  this 
we  conclude  that  lands  outside  Greenland  were  known  and  were 
under  the  jurisdiction  of  the  Bishop  of  Gardar,  and  were  inhab- 
ited by  the  faithful,  or  at  least  were  exploited  by  them.  In  this 
passage  we  see  an  implicit  reference  to  \"inland. 

\\'hat  products  gathered  in  these  various  collections,  or  what 
share  of  them,  came  from  Vinland  we  can  only  conjecture.  The 
statements  in  the  financial  records  of  Rome  (the  "Liber  Cen- 
suum")  give  but  the  totals  for  the  diocese  of  Gardar,  the  only  name 
the  products  as  walrus-te^th,  hides  and  furs.  Now  we  know  from 
the  sagas  that  furs  were  an  article  of  barter  between  the  Scandi- 
navians and  the  natives  of  \'inland.  This  is  not  to  say  that  all  the 
furs  were  from  that  colony,  for  seals  were  abundant  in  Greenland. 
We  do  find  in  the  report  by  the  nuncios  of  Sweden  and  Norway 
of  the  collections  made  between  1326  and  1330  one  article  that 
could  have  come  only  from  Mnland — "a  cup  of  transatlantic  wood 
valued  at  ten  golden  florins:"  "Unus  ciphus  de  nuce  ultramarina, 
existimatus  II.  florenos  auri."  The  cup  may  have  been  w^orked 
in  Greenland,  but  the  wood  must  have  come  from  Vinland,  for 
two  reasons:  first,  there  was  no  wood  in  Greenland;  secondly,  there 
was  wood  in  Mnland,  and  wood  used  precisely  for  ornamental  and 
domestic  purposes.  The  sagas  tell  us  that  the  main  staple  of 
commerce  between  Mnland,  Norway  and  Greenland  was  wood. 
This  was  what  made  the  vovages  to  Mnland  so  profitable,  and 

'     65 


kept  the  crews  there  for  years  at  a  time  getting  out  their  cargoes. 
Moreover,  the  saga  of  Thorfinn  Karlsefne  narrates  how  the  wood 
of  Mnland  was  worked  to  domestic  purposes,  and  how  it  was 
valued  at  high  prices,  a  Bremen  merchant  having  paid  Karlsefne 
a  large  sum  for  his  scalepans,  or,  as  others  will  have  it,  for  the 
bar  with  which  he  closed  his  door. 

During  the  administration  of  Bishop  Alfus  (consecrated  in 
1376)  came  to  the  Catholic  inhabitants  of  Greenland  the  first 
notice  of  the  danger  that  was  to  exterminate  them  a  few  years 
later.  The  savages  they  had  met  in  \'inland  in  the  beginning  of 
the  eleventh  century — the  Skracllings — made  a  raid  into  Green- 
land. These  tribes  arc  supposed  to  have  been  the  descendants  of 
the  American  glacial  man,  and  to  be  represented  now  by  the 
Eskimos  of  Greenland.  They  were  no  doubt  driven  northward 
by  more  numerous  and  more  cultured  bands  of  Indians  coming 
from  the  south — the  present  American  red  man,  to  whom,  in 
the  course  of  time,  they  shall  have  to  yield,  and  by  whom  they 
shall  be  driven  to  seek  a  home  in  northern  climes.  It  must  be 
remembered  that  the  early  Xorse  colonists  found  no  aborigines 
in  Greenland. 

Meanwhile  the  intercourse  between  Greenland  and  Norway 
was  declining  and  becoming  more  and  more  infrequent.  A  curi- 
ous entry  in  Icelandic  annals  (1386)  states:  "A  ship  came  from 
Greenland  to  Norway  which  had  lain  in  the  fonner  country  two 
whole  years.  The  men  who  returned  by  this  ship  brought  the 
news  of  Bishop  Alf's  death  from  Greenland,  which  had  taken 
place  there  six  years  before."  According  to  this  entry  not  for 
six  years  at  least  had  there  been  any  communication  between 
the  two  countries.  The  black  death  which  swept  over  Europe 
in  the  middle  t)f  the  fourteenth  century  may  have  had  something 
to  do  with  this  neglect  l.1  its  colony  by  Norway.  But  there  was 
a  political  measure  that  had  much  more  to  do  with  it.  As  dis- 
covery and  first  colonization  are  always  the  result  of  individual 
enterprise,  so  also  the  prosperity  of  the  colony  and  its  communi- 
cation with  the  mother  country,  and  especially  its  commerce, 
depend  on  individual  activity  and  love  of  gain.  In  1380-87 
Queen  Margaret  of  Norway,  on  whose  head  were  united  the 
crowns  of  Denmark  and  Norway,  made  the  trade  of  Greenland 
a  royal  monopoly,  to  be  carried  on  in  ships  belonging  to  or 
licensed  by  the  sovereign.  In  consequence  the  colony  gradually 
fell  into  oblivion,  and  being  thus  abandoned,  grew  too  weak  to 

66 


resist, the  invading  Skraellings.  The  gradual  closing  in  of  ice- 
packs may  also  have  made  communication  more  and  more  diffi- 
cult. 

The  following  letter  of  Nicholas  V.  (1448),  commissioning 
two  bishops  in  Iceland  to  see  to  the  spiritual  wants  of  the  deso- 
late Greenlanders,  tells  the  sad  story: 

"Whereas  my  beloved  children  who  are  natives  of  and  dwell 
in  the  great  island  of  Greenland,  which  is  said  to  lie  on  the  ex- 
tremest  boundaries  of  the  ocean,  northward  of  the  kingdom  of 
Norway  and  in  the  district  of  Throndjem,  have  by  their  pitiful 
complaints  greatly  moved  our  ear  and  awakened  our  sympathy; 
and  whereas  the  inhabitants,  for  almost  six  hundred  years,  have 
held  the  Christian  faith,  which  by  the  teaching  of  their  first 
instructor.  King  Olaf,  was  established  amongst  them,  firm  and 
immovable  under  the  Roman  see  and  the  apostolic  forms;  and 
whereas  in  after  years,  from  constant  and  ardent  zeal  of  the 
inhabitants  of  the  said  island,  many  sacred  buildings  and  a  hand- 
some cathedral  have  been  erected  on  this  island,  in  which  the 
service  of  God  was  diligently  performed  until  heathen  foreigners 
from  the  neighboring  coast,  thirty  years  since,  came  with  a  fleet 
against  them,  and  fell  with  fury  upon  all  the  people  who  dwelt 
there,  and  laid  waste  the  land  itself  and  the  holy  buildings  with 
fire  and  sword,  without  leaving  upon  the  island  of  Greenland 
other  than  the  few  people  who  are  said  to  be  far  off,  and  which 
they,  by  reason  of  high  mountains,  could  not  reach,  and  took 
off  the  much-to-be-commiserated  inhabitants  of  both  sexes,  par- 
ticularly those  whom  they  looked  upon  as  convenient  and  strong 
enough  for  the  constant  burden  of  slavery,  and  took  home  with 
them  those  against  whom  they  could  best  direct  their  barbarity. 
Whereas,  moreover,  the  same  complaint  further  saith  that  many, 
in  the  course  of  time,  have  come  back  from  said  captivity,  and 
after  having  here  and  there  rebuilt  the  devastated  places,  now 
wish  to  have  the  worship  of  their  God  again  established,  and  set 
upon  the  former  footing;  and  since  they,  in  consequence  of  the 
before-named  pressing  calamity,  are  wanting  the  necessary  means 
themselves,  to  support  their  priesthood  and  superiors,  and  there- 
fore, during  all  that  period  of  thirty  years,  have  been  in  want  of 
the  consolations  of  the  bishops  and  the  services  of  the  priests, 
except  when  some  one,  through  desire  of  the  service  of  God,  has 
been  willing  to  undertake  tedious  and  toilsome  journeys  to  the 
people  whom  the  fury  of  the  barbarians  has  spared;  where  we 

67 


have  a  complete  knowledge  of  all  these  things,  therefore,  we  now 
charge  and  direct  you,  brethren,  who,  we  are  informed,  are  the 
nearest  bishops  to  the  said  island,  that  ye,  after  first  conferring 
with  the  chief  bishop  of  the  diocese,  do  nominate  and  send  them 
a  fit  and  proper  man  as  bishop." 

However,  for  reasons  that  we  know  not,  this  decree  remained 
without  effect.  Fifty  years  later  the  Greenlanders  renewed  their 
petition  to  Innocent  VIII.  Their  situation  was  pitiful.  Left  to 
themselves  for  a  century  without  bishop  and  priests,  they  had 
fallen  into  ignorance  and  complete  forgetfulness  of  the  religion 
of  their  ancestors.  The  only  memorial  of  it  that  remained  among 
them  was  a  corporal  on  which  the  last  priest  a  hundred  years 
before  had  consecrated  the  holy  eucharist.  Around  this  they 
congregated  occasionally  for  such  worship  as  tradition  had 
handed  down.  Moved  by  their  pitiful  petition,  Alexander  \T., 
successor  of  Innocent  \TII.,  confirmed  for  the  see  of  Gardar  a 
Benedictine  monk,  Mathias,  whom  Innocent  \TII..  before  dying, 
had  named  to  that  sec.  The  document  from  which  we  gather 
these  details  is  a  letter  of  Alexander  \T.  (1492-93)  to  the  Roman 
congregations,  ordering  that  the  necessary  briefs  and  papers  of 
appointment  be  delivered  to  the  a{)pointed  bishop  without  the 
ordinary  expenses  of  chancery.  From  it  we  learn  also  that  one 
of  the  causes  of  the  interruption  of  communication  between  Eu- 
rope and  Greenland  was  the  intense  cold  and  the  abundance  of 
icepacks. 

It  is  strange  that  we  have  this  last  historical  mention  of  the 
Catholic  colonization  of  Greenland  in  the  very  year  that  Colum- 
bus set  out  from  Spain  and  landed  on  the  island  of  San  Salvador. 
Thus  did  the  church  of  Greenland  pass  out  of  sight  and  memory, 
though  in  1520  the  last  Catholic  .Archbishop  of  Drontheim,  Eric 
Walkendorf.  sought  to  gather  information  of  the  long-unheard-of 
see  of  Gardar,  with  the  intention  of  renewing  communication 
with  the  lost  sufTragan.  But  the  Reformation  swept  over  Nor- 
way, ended  the  hierarchy  there,  and  then  silence  and  oblivion 
fell  upon  Catholic  Greenland.  What  became  df  the  descendants 
of  Scandinavia  we  knov.-  not.  But  they  left  behind  the.n  ruins  of 
churches  and  Catholic  inscriptions  on  stray  fragments  that  per- 
petual snows  enshroud.  Thus  with  Greenland,  an  1.  indeed,  long 
before  the  disappearance  of  Greenland,  ended  the  \'inlan:l  episode 
in  the  history  of  the  Catholic  Church  in  the  United  States. 

It  can  hardly  be  doubted  that  the  long  and  frequent  inter- 

68 


course  of  the  Scandinavians  with  the  natives  of  the  American 
mainland  during  centuries  of  commerce  and  years  of  captivity, 
that  the  missionary  expeditions  of  bishops  and  priests  to  our 
shores,  left  behind  some  vague  knowledge  of  our  religion,  some 
Catholic  practices  and  customs  which,  in  the  course  of  time, 
became  more  or  less  overgrown  with  superstitions.  This  may 
explain,  to  some  extent,  the  traces  of  Christianity  found  by  early- 
French  explorers  and  missionaries  among  the  tribes  along  the 
St.  Lawrence.  It  might  also  explain  the  Christian  practices  and 
emblems  found  among  the  more  southern  tribes,  and  spare  us 
the  theories,  not  yet  historically  established,  that  the  Apostle  St. 
Thomas,  or  the  Irish  monks  St.  Columba  and  St.  Brendan,  pene- 
trated as  far  as  Mexico  gind  evangelized  the  natives  of  the  south. 
There  is  no  impossibility  or  improbability  of  intercourse  between 
all  the  tribes  of  America  from  ^^lexico,  and  even  Peru,  to  the 
colder  regions  of  Canada.  There  are  in  different  sagas  and  in 
the  relation  of  the  Zeni  brothers  strong  indications  of  such  an 
intercourse.  The  legends  of  St.  Thomas  and  the  Irish  monks 
are  fascinating  but  conjectural.  They  are  a  field  in  which  the 
imagination  loves  to  roam,  but  in  which  the  historical  sense  finds 
small  satisfaction." 

Give  all  righteous  glory  to  Columbus  and  his  discoveries, 
but  do  not  forget  that  his  discovery  was  not  a  new  one,  it  was 
simply  a  re-discovery.  The  discovery  by  the  Norsemen  laid 
the  foundation,  but  proved  to  be  of  little  practical  value.  Colum- 
bus found  America  when  it  ought  to  be  found,  and  the  results 
have  been  greater  than  the  dreams  of  the  most  fertile  imagination. 

Long  live  Columbus  and  long  live  Leif  trikson  and  his  brave 
comrades ! 


CHAPTER  VI. 

What  I  Heard  on  the  Ocean. 

Ten  days  aboard  a  steamer  is  a  long  time.  Our  stay  was 
prolonged  by  fogs  and  strong  head  winds  from  Friday,  ]\Iay  28, 
until  Wednesday  morning,  June  9.  We  did  not  complain.  The 
company  was  good  and  interesting,  the  table  splendid,  and  the 

69 


captain  safe  and  conservative.  I  like  the  Allan  Line  for  its 
moderate  charges,  its  good  captains  and  its  liberal  accommoda- 
tions. 

A  day  is  long,  however,  out  on  the  wide,  wide  ocean.  One 
has  time  for  much  meditation,  much  conversation  and  yet  find 
plenty  of  hours  left  for  rest. 

Our  company  on  the  "Mongolian"  was  one  to  be  long  remem- 
bered. We  had  come  from  several  countries  and  many  profes- 
sions and  walks  of  life.  We  soon  became  acquainted.  Let  me 
then  introduce  you  to  our  steamer  family. 

Hon.  Mr.  Barrows,  Fire  Commissioner  of  Brooklyn,  was  my 
first  new  acquaintance.  He  was  an  affable,  talkative  gentleman, 
who  gave  me  much  and  interesting  information  of  the  Fire  De- 
partment of  a  great,  modern  metropolis.  It  was  especially  inter- 
esting and  satisfactory  to  find  out  that  the  firemen  were  pen- 
sioned after  twenty  years  of  faithful  service.  Some  pensioners 
have  as  much  as  $2,500  per  annum.  This  is  but  right.  Their 
work  is  one  of  constant  dan^jcr.  In  two  minutes  from  the  time 
of  the  alarm  they  are  often  at  the  place  of  fire,  battling  with  the 
fury  of  the  flames. 

I  remember  with  much  gratitude  the  fine  piano  playing  of 
Professors  Laurin  and  Thorstenberg,  and  the  singing  by  several 
members  of  our  party. 

At  10:30  a.  m.  on  the  first  Sunday  of  our  trip  we  assembled 
in  the  main  salon  for  Divine  worship.  Bishop  Gray  of  Southern 
Florida  officiated.  The  Angelican  liturgy  is  long  and  impressive, 
and  was  well  rendered  by  the  many  Episcopalians  aboard.  To 
me  it  was  a  glad  hour.  I  was  forcibly  reminded  of  the  unity  in 
faith  of  all  believers.  The  singing  was  hearty,  and  now  comes 
the  sermon. 

Bishop  Gray  spoke  on  the  Apostles'  creed  with  a  suitable 
Bible  text  as  an  adjunct.  The  speaker  called  attention  to  two 
words:  delivered — once — to  the  saints.  Our  creed,  our  faith, 
comes  from  above  and  is  inspired  and  revealed  once  for  all  and 
completely. 

The  bishop  reviewed  all  the  great  doctrines  of  our  Christian 
religion,  and  laid  especial  stress  upon  the  divinity  of  Christ.  "No 
man  can  do  for  me,  what  I  cannot  do  for  myself."  Christ  must 
be  divine,  in  order  to  be  our  Savior.  The  speaker  talked  en- 
couragingly of  the  hope  for  such  as  had  no  opportunitv  of  hear- 
ing the  Gospel  in  this  life.     Baptism  and  the  Lord's  Supper  are 

70 


If 


7/J///J^ 


^ii 


I 


51. 


something  more  than  a  mere  form,  they  are  reahties.  So  is  the 
Resurrection,  and  the  best  is  reserved  to  the  last:  hfe  everlasting. 
The  dark  stream  of  death  cannot  blot  out  our  existence.  Life 
here  is  only  the  vestibule,  then  comes  the  entrance  into  the  man- 
sions above. 

The  bishop  spoke  earnestly  and  in  strong  words  for  the  faith 
of  the  fathers. 

Later  in  the  day  I  overheard  a  discussion  between  Major 
Pond  and  the  bishop  on  the  doctrine  of  the  Resurrection.  It 
was  the  churchman  and  the  layman  who  met  and  who,  each  of 
them,  used  his  own  vocabulary.  The  Resurrection  will  prove  a 
glorious  reality,  but  why  in  the  name  of  common-sense  should 
we  try  to  make  it  more  difficult  of  conception  than  God  has 
made  it?  Every  Christian  should  remember  the  difference  be- 
tween a  material  body  and  a  spiritual  body.  Read  the  whole 
presentation  of  this  question  by  Paul,  and  it  will  become  clearer 
and  easier.  The  verities  of  life  are  usually  the  unseen  things 
even  now,  the  spiritual,  the  ever-abiding.  Life,  personality— 
who  has  seen  them,  who  can  deny  them? 

From  the  bishop  I  afterwards  learned  much  of  interest  con- 
cerning the  great  doctrine  of  the  Episcopalians,  the  Apostolic 
succession  and  the  threefold  division  of  the  ofBce  of  the  min- 
istry. I  cannot  deny  that  some  of  the  distinctions  seemed  fanci- 
ful and  forced  into  existence,  but  it  was  really  so  welcome  to 
hear  it  all  discussed  by  living,  experienced  lips.  For  that  reason 
I  am  very  grateful  to  the  bishop  for  his  kindness  in  making  this 
clear  statement  to  me  of  his  side  of  the  question,  yet  I  cannot 
share  in  his  enthusiastic  hope  that  some  day  all  Christendom 
will  unite  around  this  doctrine  and  become  one.  That  union 
will  be  established  around  the  Divine  Christ,  Redemption,  Justi- 
fication and  a  new  Spiritual  life,  if  at  all.  That  is  the  way  it 
looks  from  my  point  of  observation. 

The  bishop  also  related  much  of  interest  in  regard  to  the 
Colored  Question  of  the  South.  He  had  much  experience  with 
the  negroes  and  had  ministered  to  them  since  before  the  war. 
Northern  description  of  conditions  in  the  South  were  usually  over- 
drawn, both  formerly  and  now.  Uncle  Tom's  Cabin  was  an 
overdrawn  picture.  In  a  large  majority  of  cases  the  slaves  were 
better  ofif  before  the  emancipation  than  after.  A  patriarchal  con- 
dition existed:  the  slaves  belonged  to  the  family,  to  the  place. 
They  were  cared  for  when  sick.    The  master  would  himself  go 

75 


for  the  doctor  for  his  sick  slave,  if  needs  be.  Many  ex-slaves 
had  told  him  that  they  longed  back  to  the  good  old  times.  Even 
as  slaves  the  negroes  had  become  more  enlightened  than  before. 
America  had  helped,  lifted  and  civilized  them.  He  spoke  feelingly 
of  his  own  work  among  them.  During  a  pastorate  of  twenty  years, 
preached  for  the  masters  in  the  forenoon  and  in  the  same  church 
for  the  slaves  in  the  afternoon.  He  had  confirmed  many  blacks, 
and  had  seen  slaves  commune  at  the  same  altar  as  their  masters. 
He  had  preached  for  them  before  their  emancipation  and  after 
that  event  had  also  opened  a  school  for  their  benefit. 

The  good  bishop  gave  me  his  version  of  the  Bible  on  slavery. 
There  were  60,000,000  of  slaves  in  the  days  of  Christ  and  He 
said  nothing  about  it.     Paul  returned  Onesimus  to  his  master. 

The  bishop  complained  that  the  Methodists  and  Baptists  down 
South  through  their  revivalism  separated  religion  from  morality. 
The  colored  brother  would  be  very  religious  at  the  prayer-meet- 
ing, but  steal  chickens  afterwards.  The  Episcopalians  taught 
their  colored  members  the  Commandments  and  the  Creed,  in- 
structed them  thoroughly  in  the  word  of  God,  and  the  results 
justified  their  method. 

I  heard  many  interesting  incidents  connected  with  the  church 
work  South  among  the  colored  people.  Many  became  devoted 
and  faithful  church  members.  In  the  opinion  of  Bishop  Gray, 
the  colored  question  will  take  care  of  itself,  if  let  alone.  The 
right  way  is  to  help  the  negro  to  help  himself.  The  famous 
Prof.  Booker  Washington  had  entered  upon  the  right  path.  His 
message  to  his  own  race  was:  "Don't  beg  for  equality  of  the 
whites,  but  make  yourself  worthy  of  it,  and  it  will  soon  be  ac- 
corded to  you." 

Major  Pond  was  the  most  conspicuous  gentleman  aboard  the 
ship.  I  w^ondered  in  seeing  his  name  on  the  passenger  list,  if 
he  was  the  "only  and  original  one."  He  was.  Let  me  tell  you 
how  he  looks.  Six  feet,  three  inches  about.  Heavy  set,  mous- 
tache and  chin  whiskers,  glasses,  and  no  end  to  his  fund  of 
anecdotes  and  interesting  reminiscences. 

His  father  was  a  pioneer  in  Wisconsin  many  years  ago.  You 
ought  to  hear  the  major  speak  of  those  days  of  trial,  of  self- 
denial,  of  hunger  and  positive  want.  His  father  used  to  say: 
"that  boy  may  see  Chicago  a  city  of  30,000."  Pond  Senior  had 
great  hopes  for  the  new  city  on  the  shores  of  Lake  Michigan. 
Once  he  added:    "You  may  live  to  see  the  day  when  you  may 

76 


go  to  Chicago  by  steam  cars  in  twenty-four  hours  (from  Fond  du 
Lac)."  Major  Pond  was  a  pioneer  of  Kansas,  coming  there  in 
1856.  He  was  well  acquainted  with  Jim  Lane,  Tom  Osborne, 
Preston  B.  Plumb,  Col.  Phillips  and  other  old-timers.  I  learned 
more  of  the  early  and  inside  history  of  Kansas  from  the  lips  of 
the  sturdy  frontiersman  than  I  had  ever  heard  before.  Some 
of  the  statements  were  a  revelation.  We  say:  "All  that  glitters 
is  not  gold."  Why  do  people  admire  Jim  Lane  and  extol  him 
to  the  skies?  Was  he  ever  worthy  of  it?  I  doubt  it.  And 
how  the  government  was  cheated  by  some  of  those  patriots. 
Just  think  of  it.  Well,  I  can't  tell.  So  you  will  not  find  out 
anything  through  me,  but  the  panoramic  views  of  early  Kansas, 
that  I  looked  upon  from  the  deck  of  the  "Mongolian"  will  never 
be  forgotten. 

The  Major  had  seen  Salina  and  our  own  valley  long  before 
it  was  settled.  He  knew  all  about  the  building  of  the  Kansas 
Pacific,  and  remembered  several  gentlemen  of  our  valley,  with 
whom  the  writer  was  familiar,  especially  Mr.  Christian  Eberhardt 
and  John  McPhail. 

Then  the  major  would  relate  precious  personal  recollections 
of  Stanley,  Talmage,  "Ian  Maclaren"  and  especially  of  Beecher, 
whose  manager  the  major  had  been  for  eleven  years.  One  even- 
ing we  prevailed  upon  him  to  deliver  his  lecture  on  Beecher  in 
the  salon.  This  he  kindly  did,  and  promised  me  to  use  a  part 
of  it  with  the  public.     Here  it  is: — 

"His  life  was  seen  and  read  of  all  men— his  public  life;  but  few 
comparatively  have  known  of  his  domestic  gentleness  and  in- 
variable sweetness  of  nature. 

He  was  the  center  of  loving  hearts. 

Strong  and  powerful  as  he  knew  he  was,  with  those  he 
loved  he  was  gentle  and  tender-hearted  as  a  mother.  No  one 
feared  or  shunned  him.  His  love  could  cover  all  offenses  and 
his  pitying  heart  makes  all  excuses. 

As  to  enmities,  he  had  none. 

And  he  scarcely  knew  how  to  realize  that  he*  had  enemies. 
He  had  only  tender  thoughts  for  them. 

When  argued  with  by  near  friends  as  to  his  carrying  his 
doctrine  of  forgiveness  too  far,  he  would  reply,  "Can  we  go 
farther  than  to  bless  those  who  curse  us,  and  pray  for  those  who 
despitefully  use  us?  Ah,  there  is  so  little  known  of  the  spirit 
of  Christ  in  the  world,  that  when  a  man  is  trying  feebly  and 

77 


afar  off  to  follow  Him,  even  Christians  do  not  understand  it." 

No  answer  could  be  made  to  such  reasoning,  and  friends 
learned  of  him  new  views  of  what  was  meant  by  being  a  Chris- 
tian. He  was  the  most  joyous,  radiantly  happy  man  that  was 
ever  known. 

His  theory  was  that,  as  a  son  of  God,  in  unison  with  his 
Father,  he  had  a  right  to  happiness. 

This  joy  no  man,  or  set  of  men,  or  circumstances,  would  he 
allow  to  take  from  him.  And  he  had,  as  I  can  bear  witness,  a 
power  of  abstraction  by  which  he  could  put  away  all  thought  of 
trouble,  difficulty  or  danger,  and  rise  into  a  higher  atmosphere, 
where  the  heavens  were  blue  and  unclouded,  while  his  eyes  and 
ears  appeared  to  be  sealed  to  all  lower  considerations.  To  those 
nearest  to  him  at  such  times  the  power  seemed  almost  superhu- 
man. 


From  my  earliest  recollection,  in  our  log  cabin  on  the  frontier 
of  Wisconsin,  the  name  of  Dr.  Lyman  Beecher  was  a  house- 
hold word.  One  day,  I  think  it  was  the  summer  of  1846,  my 
mother  was  reading  a  paper  that  some  friend  had  sent  from  the 
East,  containing  a  sermon  by  Henry  Ward  Beecher,  a  young  son 
of  Lyman  Beecher,  pastor  of  a  new  church  in  Indianapolis,  in 
which  the  young  man  had  dared  to  denounce  slavery.  It  was  of 
great  interest  to  us  all,  for  my  father  was  a  very  "black  Aboli- 
tionist" and  this  news  was  a  great  comfort  to  him.  Wisconsin 
was  a  refuge  for  fugitive  slaves,  and  many  a  night  have  I  slept 
out  on  the  prairie  with  father  and  neighbors,  protecting  some 
runaway  slave,  who  had  been  piloted  North  through  Oberlin,  O., 
West  into  Northern  Illinois  and  Milwaukee,  Wis.  The  Free 
Democrat,  an  Abolition  paper  published  in  Milwaukee,  was  very 
popular  in  our  household.  It  kept  us  informed  on  all  matters 
pertaining  to  the  anti-slavery  cause.  Garrison,  Thurlow  Weed, 
Phillips,  Beecher,  Finney,  Fred  Douglass,  were  names  as  familiar 
to  me  in  boyhood  as  those  of  my  own  relatives.  Then  came  the 
Kansas  conflict.  Capt.  John  Brown  and  Sharp's  Rifles  (known 
as  Beecher  Bibles). 

Educated,  trained,  and  a  participant  in  Kansas  in  those  early 
conflicts,  as  I  was,  with  the  name  of  Beecher  as  a  beacon  light, 
you  may  perhaps  be  able  to  realize  my  feelings  of  reverence  and 
awe  for  this  great  man  when  I  met  him  for  the  first  time  in 
Brooklyn,  in  his  own  house,  in  April,  1876.     I  never  had  ex- 

78 


perienced  such  a  feeling  before.  My  lips  trembled,  my  tongue 
seemed  paralyzed,  my  throat  clogged,  my  eyes  flooded.  I  was 
helpless;  I  was  joyous;  so  filled  to  overflowing  with  something 
that  I  must  have  made  a  pretty  big  goose  of  myself.  Holding 
fast  to  my  hand,  Mr.  Beecher  walked  over  to  the  sofa  in  his 
parlor,  set  me  down,  and  began  questioning  me  about  James 
Redpath,  who  had  owned  the  Redpath  Lyceum  Bureau,  in  Bos- 
ton, and  for  whom  Mr.  Beecher  had  lectured  just  before  the 
great  trial.  I  told  him  that  Mr.  Redpath  had  gone  out  of  the 
business  and  returned  to  journalism  in  New  York,  and  that  Mr. 
Hathaway  and  I  had  bought  out  the  concern;  that  a  number 
of  engagements  for  him  to  lecture  had  been  postponed  the  sea- 
son before,  on  account  of  his  legal  troubles  in  the  suit  against 
him,  with  a  promise  on  his  (Mr.  Beecher's)  part  that  new  dates 
would  be  given  as  soon  as  he  could  know  himself.  Nearly  a 
year  had  passed,  and  these  people  were  waiting. 

Mr.  Beecher  replied  that  he  had  not  been  sitting  six  months 
in  that  trial  for  the  purpose  of  getting  rid  of  lecturing. 

To  make  a  long  story  short,  the  time  was  arranged  for;  the 
new  dates  for  New  England  to  begin  Monday,  April  i8,  1876, 
in  New  London,  Conn.  This  was  the  first  lecture  given  by  Mr. 
Beecher  under  my  auspices.  From  that  time  until  February, 
1887,  three  weeks  before  his  death,  Mr.  Beecher  and  I  traveled 
together  nearly  400,000  miles.     He  lectured  1,261  times  for  me. 

On  many  of  our  lecture  tours  we  were  favored  with  Mrs. 
Beecher's  companionship.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Beecher  were  both 
good  travelers,  never  the  slightest  trouble.  They  carried  each 
their  own  hand  baggage  and  would  allow  no  outsider  to  touch 
it.  One  little  journey  we  made  together,  a  sort  of  "vacation 
excursion."  The  three  of  us  started  from  New  York,  Monda}', 
July  9,  1883,  visiting  Albany,  Rochester,  Niagara  Falls,  several 
towns  in  Canada,  Detroit,  Chicago,  Milwaukee,  Minneapolis,  St. 
Paul,  Winnipeg,  Yellowstone  Park,  Helena,  Butte  (Mont.),  Port- 
land (Ore.),  Puget  Sound,  San  Francisco,  Sacramento,  Oak- 
land, San  Jose,  Salt  Lake,  Leadville,  Denver,  principal  cities  of 
Kansas  and  Texas,  to  New  Orleans,  Montgomery,  Atlanta,  Co- 
lumbus, Savannah,  Augusta,  closing  in  Charleston,  S.  C,  Oct. 
18,  arriving  in  New  York  on  Saturday,  the  20th.  We  had  ex- 
perienced but  two  uncomfortable  hot  days,  Oct.  5  and  6  in  Gal- 
veston, Tex. — a  temperature  of  104  deg.  These  were  the  two 
most  trying  days  to  Mr.  Beecher  that  I  ever  knew.     Mr.  Beecher 

79 


delivered  seventy-five  lectures  on  that  little  circuit  of  the  conti- 
nent, preaching  sixteen  sermons,  many  of  them  in  Plymouth 
Churches,  and  traveled  17,000  miles. 


We  had  returned  from  Mr.  Beecher's  first  visit  to  Nash- 
ville and  Memphis,  in  May,  1879.  It  had  been  a  short  tour  of 
unusual  interest  to  him;  he  had  never  before  been  south  of 
Mason's  and  Dixon's  line,  except  a  single  night  in  Richmond, 
Va.,  in  1877.  I  accompanied  him  on  the  tour,  and  to  his  first 
Friday  evening  prayer  meeting  in  Plymouth  Church  after  our 
return,  for  I  was  quite  certain  his  people  were  to  be  treated  to 
some  interesting  incidents  of  our  journey,  and  I  asked  Mr.  Ellin- 
wood  (Mr.  Beecher's  stenographer)  to  take  down  the  "talk"  and 
write  it  out  for  me,  privately,  which  he  did,  and  here  it  is: 

"After  the  war,  for  the  first  time  in  my  life,  it  seemed  to 
me  that  it  was  possible  for  me  to  visit  the  Southern  portion  of 
my  native  land.  There  had  always  been  a  sting  in  the  thought 
that  I,  a  citizen  of  the  United  States,  who  if  need  be  would  lay 
down  his  life  for  his  country,  could  not  cross  Mason  and  Di.xon's 
line  with  any  certainty  of  coming  back,  and  that  my  name  was 
a  name  to  conjure  with  and  bring  up  evil  spirits.  It  had  always 
hurt  my  pride  of  patriotism,  that  I,  a  loyal  and  freedom-loving 
man,  could  not  go  where  I  pleased  on  this  continent,  while  a 
slaveholder  could  go  where  he  pleased.  A  man  that  owned  a 
plantation,  and  cracked  his  whip  over  five  hundred  slaves,  could 
go  to  Boston  and  Niagara,  and  wherever  he  chose;  but  I,  that 
owned  nobody,  and  did  not  believe  in  the  ownership  of  men  by 
any  man,  could  not  go  into  either  of  thirteen  or  fourteen  of  these 
United  States.  I  had  feared  that  I  should  die  without  the  sight. 
I  did  not  know  how  the  change  was  to  be  brought  about,  but  I 
believed  that  there  would  be  emancipation;  that  the  conscience  of 
mankind  would  slowly  unfold  and  work  in  secret  ways  toward 
liberty;  and  that  in  the  remote  future  free  labor,  applied  to  the 
raising  of  cotton  and  sugar,  would  compete  in  the  market  with 
slave  labor,  and  lead  to  abolition.  That  was  my  theory;  but  the 
Lord  cut  it  short  in  righteousness;  he  severed  the  Gordian  knot 
with  the  sword;  this  country  was  made  free  from  end  to  end; 
and  even  since  I  have  said  within  myself,  'Before  I  die  I  hope 
to  tread  the  soil  of  every  State  in  this  Union.'  And  now  I  have 
actually  been  away  'down  South.' 

"I  went  first  to  Nashville — a  beautiful  citv,  in  which  there 

80 


are  more  than  five  hundred  colored  people  being  educated  for 
teachers  or  preachers  or  the  professions.  The  Fisk  University 
— one  of  the  marvels  of  the  world — is  there.  It  is  really  a  very 
remarkable  building,  and  it  is  very  nobly  manned.  The  whole 
of  it  has  been  sung  into  existence  by  men  and  women  that  had 
been  in  slavery.  And,  do  you  know,  they  look  upon  you  at 
this  church  as  being  the  author  of  their  success?  For  you  will 
recollect  that  the  'Jubilee  Singers'  came  here  impoverished  and 
discouraged,  hoping  that  they  might  raise  a  little  money  by 
singing.  They  were  hardly  able  to  meet  their  expenses  in  get- 
ting here.  In  this  lecture-room,  on  a  Friday  evening,  they  were 
asked  to  sing  some  of  their  songs;  and  you  said,  after  hearing 
them,  'Those  songs  must  be  heard  in  the  great  church;'  and 
when  Sunday  came  they  sang  there;  the  fire  was  kindled;  and 
invitations  came  in  for  them  to  sing  in  other  places.  Dr.  Cuyler 
opened  his  church  for  them,  and  other  churches  were  opened. 
Then  they  began  to  have  calls  from  New  England;  and  finally 
they  went  abroad.  The  result  was  that  they  earned  over  $200,000 
singing  through  America,  England,  Germany  and  France;  and 
they  have  built  with  their  breath  that  great  collegiate  institu- 
tion, where  about  five  hundred  of  their  kind  are  being  instructed. 
These  people,  that  not  twenty  years  ago  were  chattels,  bought 
and  sold  like  cattle,  have  been  lifted  out  of  bondage,  and  gone 
all  over  the  world,  and  reaped  its  wealth,  and  brought  jt  back, 
and  reared  toward  heaven  this  dome,  through  whose  crystal  roof 
comes  down  a  light  that  leads  men  and  women  to  immortal 
glory.  Talk  about  old  Rome,  her  achievements  and  her  cathe- 
drals! They  are  grand;  but  I  will  point  to  the  rearing  of  the 
Fisk  University  by  ex-slaves  and  their  singing,  and  say,  Tt  is 
the  most  wonderful  thing  that  has  yet  been  done  in  architecture.' 
"I  went  the  next  day  to  Memphis.  I  shall  never  be  Pres- 
ident of  the  United  States, — I  have  made  up  my  mind  to  that, — 
but  I  had  a  taste  of  what  it  would  be  to  be  President;  for  they 
gave  me  twenty-one  guns  when  I  went  into  the  town.  I  thought 
to  myself,  'Am  I  on  earth?  and  am  I  in  Memphis,  on  the  Missis- 
sippi River,  clear  down  in  the  southwest  corner  of  the  State  of 
Tennessee,  and  only  twelve  miles  from  the  State  of  Mississippi? 
And  are  these  twenty-one  guns  for  the  pastor  of  Plymouth 
Church?  Well,  things  have  turned  round  pretty  lively!'  I  do 
not  know  how  many  people  saw  that  spectacle;  I  only  know  that 
I  saw  it.     I  was  taken  about  the  city  b\'  the  editor  of  the  Mem- 

81 


phis  Appeal,  one  of  the  most  stirring  of  the  Southern  papers.  I 
could  not  ask  for  a  more  kind  reception  than  I  received  at  his 
hands.  It  was  about  6  o'clock  in  the  evening  when  I  arrived, 
and  the  lecture  was  at  8.  As  there  was  no  lecture-room  large 
enough  to  hold  the  people  that  wanted  to  gather,  Agricultural 
Hall  was  taken,  and  4,000  seats  were  put  into  it,  and  out  from 
a  gallery,  looking  down  upon  the  people,  I  delivered  my  lecture; 
and  I  delivered  it  just  as  plump  and  as  fair  as  I  ever  did  any- 
where else.  I  received  just  as  cordial  and  respectful  a  hearing 
as  ever  I  had,  and  I  never  desire  to  speak  to  a  more  thoughtful, 
cultivated,  courteous,  sympathetic  and  respectful  audience  than 
I  had  in  Memphis.  Yet  they  knew  who  I  was,  and  they  very 
well  knew  what  my  sentiments  had  been  and  were." 

"I  bless  God  that  the  day  has  come  when  a  true  heart,  with 
kind  and  sympathetic  feelings,  will  give  a  man  entrance  into 
every  State  of  this  Union  to  discuss  any  question  that  it  is  neces- 
sary to  discuss  before  the  people  of  the  United  States." 

It  was  on  the  23d  of  January,  1877,  I  had  arranged  with  W. 
T,  Powell,  of  Richmond,  Va.,  for  Mr.  Beecher  to  lecture  in  that 
city.  Mr.  Powell  was  manager  of  the  Richmond  Theater.  He 
was  to  pay  $400  for  the  lecture.  It  was  to  be  on  Tuesday  even- 
ing. Mr.  Beecher  lectured  Monday  evenmg  in  Baltimore,  and 
we  had  arranged  to  take  the  sleeper  immediately  after  the  Balti- 
more lecture  and  be  in  Richmond  early  the  following  morning. 

As  we  went  aboard  the  sleeper  at  Baltimore,  a  telegram  was 
put  into  my  hands,  which  read  as  follows: 

"No  use  coming.  Beecher  will  not  be  allowed  to  speak  in 
Richmond.     No  tickets  sold. 

"Signed,  W.  T.  Powell." 

I  at  once  replied:  "Have  started.  Mr.  Beecher  will  be  on 
hand  to  keep  his  contract."  I  did  not  mention  the  incident  to 
Mr.  Beecher. 

Just  before  our  arrival  in  Richmond  the  following  morning, 
Mr.  Powell  came  to  me  on  the  train  and  told  me  that  the  feeling 
against  Mr.  Beecher  in  Richmond  was  so  bitter  that  it  would 
not  do  for  him  to  attempt  to  speak;  that  not  a  ticket  had  been 
sold  and  he  dare  not  advertise.  He  showed  me  a  number  of 
papers  that  contained  most  bitter  articles  about  Mr.  Beecher, 
and  a  printed  circular,  which  was  the  most  violent  I  had  ever 
read — not  even  in  the  antebellum  days  could  anything  have  been 
more  vindictive  or  abusive.     Every  vituperative  adjective  that  the 

82 


English  language  contains  seemed  to  be  applied  to  Mr.  Beecher 
and  Mrs.  Stovve,  his  sister.  I  did  not  allow  Mr.  Powell  to  see 
Mr.  Beecher.  We  parted  at  the  depot  on  our  arrival,  he  saying 
he  would  see  me  later. 

Mr.  Beecher  and  I  went  direct  to  the  Exchange  Hotel,  and 
as  he  registered  our  names  I  saw  at  once  that  there  was  a  gen- 
eral disposition,  from  the  landlord  and  hotel  clerk  down  to  the 
negro  porter  and  bell-boy,  to  guy  us.  As  we  were  passing 
through  the  hall  and  up  to  our  room,  a  general  disposition  to 
sneer  and  make  nasty  remarks  prevailed. 

We  went  down  to  breakfast,  and  even  the  colored  waiter  and 
head  waiter,  who  seated  us,  were  disgustingly  uncivil.  Mr. 
Beecher  m.ade  no  remarks.  We  ate  our  breakfast,  and  as  we 
passed  out  of  the  dining-room  into  a  long  hall,  we  met  a  pretty 
little  golden-haired  child.  Mr.  Beecher,  in  his  characteristic 
manner,  stopped  and  began  talking  to  and  caressing  the  child, 
taking  some  candy  from  his  pocket  (he  never  was  without  bait 
for  children),  offered  it,  and  was  just  getting  into  the  little  girl's 
favor  when  the  mother  came  along  and  snatched  her  away,  as 
though  she  were  rescuing  it  from  a  fierce  beast  of  prey. 

Mr.  Beecher  walked  quietly  to  his  room.  I  left  instructions 
at  the  hotel  office  that  no  one  was  to  knock  on  his  door.  Mr. 
Powell  called  and  assured  me  that  it  would  be  all  Mr.  Beecher's 
life  was  worth  to  attempt  to  speak  in  Richmond,  f  told  him  I 
would  let  him  ofif  that  night  from  his  contract  if  he  would  rent 
me  the  theater.  He  consented,  and  I  at  once  got  out  some  bills 
and  dodgers  and  advertised  Mr.  Beecher  to  speak  that  evening. 
The  Legislature  was  in  session  and  passed  an  informal  vote  that 
none  of  them  would  go  near  the  theater.  The  Tobacco  Board 
did  the  same. 

Evening  arrived,  and  I  could  get  no  one  to  attend  the  door, 
so  I  did  it  myself.  Mr.  Powell  applied  for  an  extra  force  of  a 
dozen  police,  which  was  of  no  account,  as  they  were  wholly  in 
sympathy  with  the  crowd. 

The  Rev.  Dr.  Grey,  the  principal  Presbyterian  minister,  and 
the  head  of  a  leading  institution  of  learning  in  Richmond,  wrote 
the  chief  of  police  that  while  he  distinctly  wished  it  to  be  under- 
stood that  he  did  not  endorse  or  favor  Mr.  Beecher's  speaking 
in  Richmond,  he  sincerely  hoped  that  the  threat  to  Qgg  Mr. 
Beecher  would  not  be  carried  into  efifect. 

As  each  member  of  the  Legislature  and  Tobacco  Board  knew 

85 


that  none  of  the  other  members  would  attend  the  lecture,  he 
embraced  the  opportunity  to  go;  and  there,  to  their  surprise, 
they  all  met.  It  was  a  crowd  of  men  who  made  the  best  of  the 
joke  they  had  played  upon  themselves.  They  were  hilarious, 
bitter  and  disrespectful.  They  filled  up  the  seats  of  the  theater, 
kept  their  hats  on,  and  talked  loud,  spitting  tobacco  juice  wher- 
ever it  was  the  most  convenient. 

The  time  came  for  me  to  go  after  Mr.  Beecher.  I  had  no 
door-tender,  but  the  theater  was  full  of  men,  and  my  pockets 
stufTed  with  dollars,  so  I  left  the  door  to  take  care  of  itself.  I 
found  him  ready.  While  in  the  carriage  on  our  way  from  the 
hotel  to  the  theater  not  a  word  passed  between  us.  We  had 
neither  of  us  broached  the  situation  during  the  day.  When 
we  arrived  at  the  stage  door  of  the  theater  the  dozen  of  police- 
men were  keeping  the  crowd  back.  As  we  alighted  from  the 
carriage,  going  into  the  door,  a  general  yell  went  up.  We  met 
Mr.  Powell  on  the  stage.     He  called  me  one  side,  and  said: 

"Don't  you  introduce  Mr.  Beecher.  The  gallery  is  full  of 
eggs.     You  will  have  trouble,"   etc. 

I  stepped  into  the  waiting-room.     Mr.  Beecher  said: 

"Go  ahead;  I  am  ready." 

I  walked  on  the  stage.  He  followed.  As  we  sat  down,  I 
saw  the  theater  full  of  men  only.  The  crowd  was  disposed  to 
be  uncivil,  canes  began  to  rake  the  baluster  of  the  balcony  rail- 
ing, and  their  feet  to  pound  the  floor.  In  less  than  a  minute  a 
rebel  yell  fairly  shook  the  theater.  Mr.  Beecher  signaled  me 
to  proceed. 

I  stood  a  moment  for  them  to  get  quiet,  and  then  introduced 
him  to  his  first  Virginian  audience. 

Mr.  Beecher  was  to  speak  on  "Hard  Times,"  but  had  decided 
to  change  the  subject  to  "The  Ministry  of  Wealth."  He  arose 
and  stepped  toward  the  footlights.  Another  yell  went  up.  He 
stood  unmoved  and  waited  for  them  some  time.  Finally,  a  quell 
came  and  he  began.  He  said  that  there  was  a  natural  law  that 
brains  and  capital  controlled  the  commercial  world,  and  it  could 
not  be  changed  even  by  the  Virginia  Legislature  which  opened 
with  prayer  and  closed  with  benediction.  The  Legislature  were 
all  there,  and  the  public,  like  any  other  public,  were  ready  to 
accept  any  good-natured  drive  at  the  Legislature. 

It  was  not  many  minutes  before  the  audience  was  in  full  sym- 
pathy with  the  speaker,  and    for  two  and    a    half    hours  Mr. 

86 


Beecher  addressed  that  crowd,  swaying  them  witli  his  mighty 
eloquence  and  telHng  them  such  truths  as  they  never  before 
hstened  to.  His  peroration  was  a  tribute  to  the  Commonweakh 
of  Virginia,  the  Mother  of  Presidents,  her  history  and  her  people, 
and  closed  wath  a  brief  retrospect:  how  she  had  prospered  when 
she  set  her  mark  high  and  bred  her  sons  for  Presidents  and 
position,  but  how  changed  when  she  came  to  breed  them  for 
the  market;  how  manfully  and  nobly  her  worthy  sons  had  kissel 
the  sod,  and  how  sad  had  been  her  lot.  But  in  all  her  prosperity 
and  adversity,  God  had  not  forsaken  her.  The  rising  generation 
were  learning  to  work.  Industry  brought  prosperity,  and  soon, 
very  soon,  Virginia  was  to  be  one  of  the  brightest  stars  in  the 
constellation  of  States. 

Such  applause  and  cheers  as  he  got  during  that  address  I  have 
never  before  or  since  witnessed. 

He  stepped  ofT  the  stage  and  to  the  carriage,  and  we  were  in 
our  rooms  at  the  hotel  before  half  of  the  audience  could  get  out 
of  the  theater. 

After  getting  to  his  room,  Mr.  Beecher  threw  himself  back 
in  a  large  chair  in  front  of  a  blazing  w^ood  fire,  and  laughingly 
said: 

"Don't  you  think  we  have  captured  Richmond?" 

He  had  no  more  than  spoken  when  the  door  opened  and  a 
crowd  of  men  came  rushing  in.  My  first  impression  was  that 
it  was  a  mob,  as  it  did  not  seem  that  there  had  been  time  for 
them  to  come  from  the  theater,  but  I  w-as  mistaken. 

The  foremost  was  a  tall  man  with  a  slouch  hat.  (They  were 
all  in  slouch  hats.)     He  said: 

"Mr.  Beecher,  this  is  our  Lieutenant-Governor.  We  have 
come  to  thank  you  for  that  great  speech.  This  is  our  Member 
for  So  and  So,  and  this  is  Judge  Harris,"  etc.,  etc.,  introducing  a 
score  or  more  of  prominent  Virginians. 

"Mr.  Beecher,  we  want  you  to  stay  and  speak  for  us  to- 
morrow evening.     We  want  our  women  to  hear  you,"  etc. 

Mr.  Beecher  was  in  his  most  happy  humor.  He  shook  the 
Virginians  warmly  by  the  hand.  He  told  them  that  he  w-as 
simply  a  piece  of  artillery  that  Pond  hauled  about  the  country 
and  touched  off  just  when  he  pleased,  and  that  they  must  talk 
to  him. 

I  assured  them  that  Mr.  Beecher  was  announced  for  Wash- 
ington the  following  evening,  and  his  time  w-as  all  booked  for  the 

87 


season.     They  offered  to  raise  $500,  if  he  would  remain  over. 

The  following  morning  at  7  o'clock  many  Virginians  were 
at  the  station  to  see  him  off.  All  the  morning  papers  contained 
extensive  synopses  of  the  lecture  and  favorable  notices. 

Mr.  Beecher  has  since  spoken  twice  in  Richmond  to  the 
choicest  audiences  that  old  capital  can  turn  out.  I  consider  this 
the  greatest  lecture  I  ever  knew  Mr.  Beecher  to  give. 


March  26,  1878,  we  were  in  Topeka,  Kan.  While  on  a  three 
weeks'  tour  in  the  West  we  were  at  the  Teft  House,  having 
arrived  by  an  early  train  from  Kansas  City.  We  ate  breakfast, 
and  Mr.  Beecher  retired  to  his  room,  while  I  entertained  old 
friends  in  the  office,  and  there  were  many  (as  the  exciting  part 
of  my  career  had  been  in  this  blood-bought  State),  from  Mr. 
McMeakin,  the  proprietor,  with  his  beard,  which  hung  down 
to  the  skirts  of  his  garments,  to  Tom  Anderson,  Major  Adams, 
Chester  Thomas,  George  Peck,  Gov.  Tom  Osborne,  Benj.  Simp- 
son, Rossington,  and  such.  Mr.  McMeakin  interrupted  the  oc- 
casion by  saying  that  an  old  colored  man  standing  at  the  desk 
wanted  to  see  Mr.  Beecher,  and  would  not  accept  the  explanation 
that  he  would  see  no  one  during  the  morning,  as  he  was  resting. 

It  was  an  old  darkey,  with  a  long-tailed  broadcloth  coat  and 
a  plug  hat  about  the  same  age  as  himself.  He  was  a  typical 
Uncle  Ephraim.     I  left  the  crowd  and  spoke  to  him. 

"Mr.  Beecher  is  resting.  He  can  see  no  one  until  he  is  up 
and  rings  his  bell." 

'That's  right,  sir.  I  know  all  about  that,  sir.  You  just  take 
me  to  him.  You'll  know  if  he  wants  to  see  me.  He  would  be 
here  just  now  if  he  knew  I  was  to  see  him." 

"What's  your  name?"  I  asked. 

"It  makes  no  difference.  Just  take  me  to  him.  I  lived  with 
him  six  years  in  Indiana.  My  wife  nursed  Miss  Hattie  and  little 
Massa  Harry.     He  knows  me  well  'nuff." 

It  came  in  such  sincere  enthusiastic  darkey  earnestness  that 
I  fully  realized  he  was  exactly  the  person  Mr.  Beecher  would  be 
glad  to  see  at  any  hour. 

I  escorted  him  to  Mr.  Beecher's  room,  walking  quietly  in 
without  knocking,  as  was  my  custom.  He  was  lying  on  his 
bed  wide  awake. 

"Here  is  an  old  citizen  of  Kansas  who  not  only  claims  that 
he  knows  you,  but  insists  that  you  want  to  see  him," 

88 


Mr.  Beecher  had  no  more  than  set  eyes  on  him  than  he 
exclaimed: 

"Well,  I  guess  he's  about  right.  Jim,  how  are  you?  Come 
in  and  tell  me  about  yourself  right  away.  I  haven't  seen  you 
for  over  thirty  years." 

"Thirty-three  years,  Mr.  Beecher,"  said  the  darkey. 

"Well,  well,  why  haven't  you  reported  to  me  where  you  were 
all  this  time.     What  has  become  of  Letitia?" 

"She's  right  here,  Mr.  Beecher.  She's  going  to  the  lecture 
to-night  just  to  see  you." 

"Where  are  you  living?     Have  you  got  a  family?" 

"I  live  here  in  Topeka.  Letitia  and  I.  We's  got  four  sons. 
They  all  time  about  here.  All  got  good  farms  but  Henry,  our 
youngest  boy.  He  ain't  no  good.  Henry  was  named  for  you, 
Mr.  Beecher.  He's  at  the  race-track.  He  trains  fine  horses  for 
the  biggest  horseman  in  Kansas,"  and  he  went  on  giving  his 
history  for  thirty-three  years.  He  and  his  eldest  sons  had  been 
through  the  war,  and  they  had  been  in  all  the  struggles  in  Kansas, 
and  he  knew  all  about  it. 

"Lititia  is  mighty  anxious  to  see  you,  Mr.  Beecher.  Yes, 
she  is,  sir." 

"Pond,  get  a  carriage,  and  we'll  ride  out  to  see  Letitia.  You'll 
see  what  good  housekeeping  is." 

We  all  went  down  to  the  office  together.  The  same  crowd  of 
old  friends  were  still  loitering  about,  waiting  for  a  chance  to  see 
and  meet  Mr.  Beecher,  to  whom  I  introduced  them,  and  then 
ordered  a  hack. 

Mr.  Beecher  told  the  gentlemen  that  he  was  very  glad  to 
see  an  old  servant  who  had  once  taken  great  care  of  him  and 
Mrs.  Beecher  when  they  first  lived  in  Indiana,  and  he  was  going 
out  to  see  his  wife,  whom  Mrs.  Beecher  had  partially  brought  up 
and  trained  in  housekeeping.  They  told  Mr.  B.  that  Jim  was  very 
well  known  and  respected,  and  the  richest  colored  man  in  Ivansas. 

A  few  moments  later  Mr.  Beecher  and  this  colored  man  and 
myself  were  riding  through  the  streets  of  the  capital  of  Kansas 
in  an  open  carriage.  There  could  be  no  more  appropriate  back- 
ground for  that  picture  than  the  Capital  of  Kansas.  We  soon 
drove  up  to  a  very  fine-looking  large  frame  house  in  the  quarter 
of  negro  aristocracy.  There  were  flowers  in  the  yard  and  climb- 
ers over  windows  and  doors.  As  we  were  dismounting  Mr. 
Beecher  said: 

89 


"I  see  Letitia  has  not  forgotten  her  love  for  flowers." 

Just  then  a  very  large  and  motherly  colored  woman  came 
to  the  door  to  welcome  him.  I  don't  believe  that  in  all  our 
travel  we  ever  enjoyed  a  visit  more  than  that.  They  lived  over 
their  early  life  in  Indiana,  and  Mr.  Beecher  recollected  just  the 
incidents  and  circumstances  they  were  in  touch  with, — the  build- 
ing of  the  house,  the  making  of  the  gardens,  the  flowers,  the 
different  horses,  cows,  and  the  long  rides  they  had  together  in 
his  missionary  work,  prying  their  old  mud  wagon  out  of  the  mire 
and  pulling  the  horses  out  of  swamps.  Each  and  all  had  shared 
these  hardships  alike,  and  w^ere  now  enjoying  alike  the  remi- 
niscences. 

After  an  hour  we  drove  back  to  the  hotel,  Mr.  Beecher  sound- 
ing the  praise  of  his  old  servants  until  we  arrived.  Dinner  was 
ready,  and  no  small  portion  of  the  town  waiting  to  set  eyes  on 
my  star. 

About  6  that  evening  Jim  came  in  with  a  large  pitcher  of  hot 
cofifee,  something  that  was  hard  to  get  in  that  country. 

"Mr.  Beecher,  Letitia  was  afeared  you  would  have  no  good 
coffee  here,  and  she  knowed  how  much  you  needed  it,  as  you 
speak  to-night.     She  never  forgot  the  cofTee,  you  know." 

"Oh,  Jim,  tell  Letitia  that  she  know^s  just  how  to  have  a  good 
lecture  to-night." 

It  was  a  good  lecture. 

Mr.  Beecher's  visit  to  his  old  servants  before  he  had  seen  any 
callers  was  much  and  favorably  commented  upon,  and  greatly 
enhanced  the  popularity  of  the  already  best-known  colored  citizen 
in  the  town." 

You  will  all  be  grateful,  I  am  sure,  for  this  opportunity  of 
getting  somewhat  nearer  to  a  man,  who  in  American  history 
will  always  be  mentioned  together  with  Lincoln  and  Grant. 
Beecher  stands  out  larger  and  more  important  as  his  massive 
form  is  planted  beside  those  who  lived  with  him,  and  whose 
greatness  is  everywhere  recognized. 

Major  Pond  keeps  up  his  interest  in  the  West.  The  Western 
Church  College,  the  pioneer  institutions  of  learning  have  a  great 
friend  and  admirer  in  the  great  impressario,  who  found  it  profit- 
able as  lately  as  last  year  to  offer  a  good  speaker  $25,000  for 
fifty  lectures. 

Another  very  entertaining  fellow-passenger  was  Rev.  Dr.  Law- 
son,  formerly  of  Brooklyn,  but  now  of  Camden,  N.  J.     He  had 

90 


been  a  member  of  the  well  known  "Ministerial  Union"  of  Brook- 
lyn, and  is  a  fine  and  gifted  Christian  gentleman.  I  spent  many 
an  enjoyable  hour  in  his  entertaining  company.  Dr.  L.  had 
been  well  acquainted  with  Beecher.  His  opinion  of  the  "here- 
sies" of  the  latter  seemed  to  be  that  he  would  never  had  proceeded 
as  far  as  he  did,  had  it  not  been  for  unfair  and  unjust  criticisms, 
which  continually  urged  him  on  still  further.  It  seems  plausible. 
Such  has  been  the  case  of  others.  A  spirited  horse  should  not 
be  whipped  without  judgment.  On  one  occasion  Dr.  L.  has 
read  a  paper  on  the  Holy  Ghost  before  the  above  mentioned  Min- 
isterial Union.  Beecher  then  related  his  remarkable  experi- 
ence at  Manchester,  where  the  audience  for  two  hours  refused 
to  listen  to  his  plea  for  the  .emancipation  of  the  slaves  in  the 
South.  B.  said:  "I  felt  God  upon  me.  I  had  to  say:  'hold  back, 
the  vessel  is  too  weak.'  I  stepped  a  victor  upon  that  platform, 
whether  it  would  take  one  or  five  hours  to  prove  it." 

At  another  time  Dr.  L.  gave  me  the  history  of  Abe  Lincoln's 
famous  remark:  "God  must  love  the  common  people,  for  he 
made  so  many  of  them."  Lincoln's  partner  had  taunted  him 
about  his  commonplace  appearance  and  careless  dress.  The 
coming  president  and  martyr  had  really  a  new  shirt  that  morning, 
but  it  was  put  on  with  the  front  in  the  back.  It  was  surely  "a 
cold  day"  when  old,  honest  Abe  "got  left." 

On  Sunday  morning  Dr.  L.  related  an  experience  from  a 
previous  ocean  tour.  An  Episcopalian  had  said:  "there  are  three 
churches,  the  Roman,  Greek,  and  Anglican,  now  different  in 
form,  but  some  day  they  will  be  the  same  in  form  as  well.  All 
the  rest  are  heretics  and  are  going  to  the  devil."  A  Scotchman 
overhearing  the  remark  said:  "Well,  I  would  much  rather  go  to 
the  devil  alone  than  in  your  company."  A  friend  told  this  inci- 
dent to  Dr.  Lawson,  and,  intending  a  bright  reflection  upon  the 
intolerance  of  the  Episcopalian,  said:  "Well,  that  is  worse  than 
the  close  communion  Baptists,  and  I  thought  they  were  the 
worst  I  ever  knew."     Dr.  Lawson  is  a  Baptist. 

Dr.  Lawson  conducted  the  services  the  next  Sunday.  We 
united  in  singing:  "Jesus,  lover  of  my  Soul."  What  a  grand, 
old  song  for  a  Sunday  out  on  the  ocean.  The  sermon  proved  to 
be  a  most  interesting  one.  The  lesson  was  Alath.  i6:  24,  "If  any 
man  will  come  after  us,  let  him  deny  himself,  and  take  up  his 
cross,  and  follow  me." 

The  doctor  said  in  part:     "The  Lord  cannot  be  served  by 

91 


proxy.  His  service  is  a  personal  service.  In  serving  us  Christ 
experienced  a  terrible  lonesomeness.  His  followers  often  do 
the  same.  The  right  are  not  always  the  many.  Right  and  might 
are  not  necessarily  twins.  There  are  three  ideas,  or  principles, 
of  Christian  life  to  be  remembered.  All  include  self-denial.  But 
there  are  several  kinds  of  self-denial.  One  is,  giving  up  the 
higher  for  the  lower.  Esau  is  an  example.  Another,  giving 
up  the  lower  for  the  higher.  Moses  is  now  an  example.  True 
Christian  self-denial  means  denying  one's  self,  one's  inner  self. 
Our  greatest  military  hero  was  called:  Unconditional  Sur- 
render Grant.  The  beginning,  the  essence  of  Christian  life  is 
Unconditional  Surrender  to  Christ.  The  second  is  Obedience. 
This  is  the  constructive  principle.  Livingston  was  found  dead 
praying.  The  men  who  accomplish  anything  are  in  God's 
hands  through  faith,  which  is  obedience  and  prayer.  To  do 
the  will  of  God,  is  the  greatest.  Obedience  is  the  eye  of  knowl- 
edge and  also  the  central  core  of  character.  We  are  often 
tempted  to  make  the  cross  of  Christ  which  we  must  carry  as 
his  followers  mean  only  suffering.  Nay,  it  is  sweet  service. 
Third  principle  is.  Cling  to  the  Supreme  example.  "Follow  me." 
Christ  is  true  Christianity.  Creeds  are  good  and  necessary,  but 
Christ  is  always  greater  than  all  creeds  put  together. — Winter 
apples  are  sour,  unless  let  alone  until  ready.  Character  must 
grow.  Give  it  a  chance  to  mature.  Don't  despair  because  it 
is  not  perfect  at  once.  Peter  was  like  a  sheet-iron  stove  lighted 
up  with  shavings. — To  know  how  to  love  is  to  know  how  to 
hate.  Love  the  good  and  you  will  hate  the  evil.  There  is  only 
one  way:  Surrender,  Obedience,  Follow  Christ.  ''A  man  of 
God,  who  went  about,  doing  good." 

After  the  sermon  I  had  another  interview  with  my  cabin- 
neighbor.  Bishop  Gray.  I  heard  more  completely  the  story  of 
his  work  among  the  colored  people,  of  Hoffman  Hall,  at  Nash- 
ville, their  Theological  School  for  the  South,  and  about  his  labor 
in  the  new  field.  He  had  colored  churches  of  one  thousand 
members  each  in  his  diocese.  The  races  must  be  kept  apart 
in  the  local  work  and  together  in  the  general  work.  The  bishop 
spoke  warmly  of  national  and  cosmopolitan  unity  in  Christ.  His 
colored  pastors  and  lay  delegates  take  part  in  the  official  meet- 
ings of  the  Episcopal  church.  He  spoke  feelingly  about  the 
great  change  going  on  in  the  South  and  praised  his  colored 
churches.     They  are  capable  of  a  highly  intellectual  religion, 

92 


FOUR   OF  THE  LEADING   MEN   OF  THE   EXPOSITION. 

1       THE    CROWN    PRINCE   QUSTAVUS.      2.      BAKON  TAMM. 

3.      ARTHUR  THIEL.      -I.      THORE   BLANCHE. 


^IBlll^ 


not  only  emotional.  I  heard  his  reasons  why  he  wanted  slavery 
abolished.  It  implied  a  lower  grade  of  existence.  Its  abolish- 
ment was  best  for  the  blacks  and  best  also  for  the  whites.  The 
New  South  is  a  reality.  There  is  more  life,  more  activity,  energy, 
more  cities  and  more  industries.  There  will  never  be  the  old 
patriarchal,  easy,  hospitable  life  any  more,  but  it  is  best  for  all 
concerned.  Let  the  South  wath  its  colored  question  alone,  and 
it  will  work  out  its  own  salvation  slowly  but  surely.  This  seemed 
to  be  the  central  idea  of  the  bishop. 

One  night  as  we  were  sitting  at  the  dinner  table  Major  Pond 
came  over  to  my  place  and  said:  "Say  now,  Swensson,  I  will 
just  announce  that  you  will  lecture  to  us  to-night."  How  could  I 
escape?  The  man  who  looked  the  Indian  and  border  ruffian 
fearlessly  in  the  eye  has  much  of  the  commanding  power  at  his 
easy  disposition.  I  had  to  obey  and  so  to  my  great  surprise  came 
to  hear  also  my  own  voice  aboard  the  steamer.  I  was  introduced 
by  the  major  himself  and  felt  unusually  embarrassed  as  I  looked 
my  fellow-passengers  in  the  eye. 

What  did  I  say?  First  of  all  I  gave  utterance  to  my  grati- 
tude for  the  good  company  enjoyed.  I  had  traveled  aboard  an 
English  ship  for  the  first  time  and  had  come  into  closer  contact 
wath  that  people,  and  because  of  it  all,  I  was  glad.  There  is  but 
one  great,  Christian  people  the  world  over,  and  we  all  belong  to 
that  nation.  Here  we  are  assembled  from  England,  from  the 
North  and  South  of  America  and  from  Sweden,  all  in  one, 
happy  family. 

In  the  next  place,  I  urged  that  all  of  us  should  hold  onto  the 
grand,  old  first  principles,  for  the  maintenance  of  which  our 
fathers  paid  such  a  great  price.  Don't  be  in  a  hurry  to  change 
base.  Let  us  contemplate  our  achievements  w^ith  humility;  let 
us  persevere  in  the  well-beaten  paths  of  our  ancestors. 

We  proud  Americans  dare  not  forget  that  Europe  is  the 
foundation  upon  which  our  civilization  rests.  And  the  nine- 
teenth century  as  a  whole  is  founded  upon  the  preceding  cen- 
turies. Proud  children,  scoffing  progeny,  are  an  abomination. 
Don't  belong  to  that  class. 

But  the  building  should  not  stop  with  the  basement.  On 
the  foundation  so  well  laid  may  she  lift  her  pinnacles  clear  up 
into  the  heavens.  Our  history  as  a  great  commonw^eath  is  only 
begun.     May  God  bless  and  prosper  the  continuation. 

"Major  Pond  is  the  great  impressario  of  us  all.     He  knows 

97 


how  to  press  into  service.  Crossing  the  great  pond  means  that 
the  great  Pond  will  do  with  you  just  as  he  pleases.  He  said,  I 
should  speak  of  Kansas  and  Bethany.  So  I  would,  but  you 
would  probably  believe  me  vain  and  selfish,  did  I  follow  the 
major's  announcement  too  closely." 

Now  I  spoke  briefly  of  Kansas,  and  as  I  had  to,  also  of 
Bethany  College,  located  in  a  beautiful  valley  two  hundred  miles 
west  of  Kansas  City  and  four  hundred  miles  east  of  Denver, 
in  the  very  midst  of  twenty  thousand  Swedish-Americans,  in 
a  small  inland  city,  which  never  had  a  saloon,  but  instead  of 
that,  numerous  and  beautiful  churches  and  well  attended 
schools.  I  told  of  our  two  hundred  graduates  and  our  four 
hundred  students  in  annual  attendance,  mentioning  that  YalCj 
Chicago  and  Upsala  recognized  our  diploma  without  examina- 
tion. I  did  not  forget  to  state  that  we  annually  render  "The 
Messiah"  on  Good  Friday  strictly  with  home  talent. 

After  this  brief  mention  of  "home  affairs"  I  called  the  atten- 
tion of  the  audience  to  the  fact  that  our  ancestors  were  the  first 
white  Americans,  having  visited  New  England  as  early  as  A. 
D.  looo.  The  Swedes  were  Lutherans.  There  were  1,400,000 
Lutheran  Communicants  in  the  LTnited  States,  and  the  Lutheran 
population  of  the  world  numbered  fifty  millions  of  people.  T 
told  them  how  the  Swedish  people  at  large  amalgamate  easily, 
love  liberty,  go  to  church,  vote  the  Republican  ticket,  mind  their 
own  business  and  give  their  children  a  good  education. 

I  spoke  of  our  great  and  responsive  American  patriotism,  but 
how  well  we  needed  to  be  on  our  guard  against  all  new  fads  and 
humbugs  in  religion,  economics,  or  everyday  life.  We  must  try 
for  more  stability,  more  reliability,  more  strength  and  less  of  un- 
expected upheavals  and  bloodless  revolutions,  endangering  our 
standing  and  reputation  both  at  home  and  abi-oad  and  tapping 
our  strength  and  life-energy. 

The  great  Teutonic  race  is  God's  chosen  people  for  the  twen- 
tieth century. 

Well,  I  rejoiced  when  it  was  over,  and  felt  very  keenly  the 
kindness  and  warmth  of  the  major's  kind  remark  afterwards: 
"Swensson,  I  never  make  a  mistake  as  to  my  man." 

After  my  talk  we  had  more  of  Major  Pond's  reminiscences. 
I  wish  that  our  mutual  friend,  the  greatest  v/estern  railroad  law- 
yer, Hon.  George  R.  Peck,  had  been  there  to  listen  to  the  sympa- 
thetic, interesting    and    never-to-be-forgotten    story,  in  which 

98 


"George"  and  "Jim"  figured  as  the  two  heroes.  Now  I  know  a 
little  about  the  boyhood  and  early  manhood  of  Air.  Peck,  and 
my  wonder  at  his  phenomenal  success  is  at  an  end.  There  could 
be  no  failure  to  such  a  beginning.  I  am  glad  "George"  helped 
"Jim"  against  some  of  our  early  Kansas  scoundrels,  who  to  this 
day  find  it  convenient  to  employ  guards  around  their  houses  as 
a  natural  result  of  the  "good  works"  they  have  performed  in 
years  gone  by. 

One  afternoon  we  had  much  innocent  fun.  Let  me  tell  you 
of  it  in  detail.     Here  is  the  program,  as  far  as  it  was  rendered: 

Steamship  "Alongolian." 
Jubilee  sports  to  be  held  on  board  June,  1897. 
PROGRAM  OF  EVENTS. 

1.  Chinese  Rooster  Contest. 

2.  Egg  and  Spoon  Race. 

3.  Beauty  Competition  for  Ladies. 

4.  Ugly  Competition  for  Men. 

5.  High  Jump. 

6.  Potato  Race. 

7.  Tug  of  War. 

Number  i  was  extremely  funny,  numbers  3  and  4  were 
decided  by  ballot,  and  number  7  created  the  greatest  interest. 

No.  7  was  the  tug  of  war  and  proved  very  exciting.  The 
Englishmen  had  some  college  athletes  in  their  crew  and  had 
talked  it  all  over  beforehand,  had  agreed  on  everything.  We 
hardly  knew,  until  the  time  came,  who  belonged  to  the  Ameri- 
can eight.  You  ought  to  have  seen  the  two  teams.  Young, 
agile,  protid,  high-tempered  men  on  the  English  side  with  one 
heavy-weight.  Here  are  some  of  the  Americans:  Major  Pond 
was  our  captain,  about  six  feet  three,  and  weighing,  I  would 
judge,  about  260.  I  came  next,  six  feet  one  and  a  half  inch, 
weighing  240.  Then  Air.  Barrows,  Brooklyn's  Fire  Commis- 
sioner; Mr.  Parkinson,  a  strong,  well-fed  New  York  real  estate 
man,  then  a  heavyset,  naturalized  Scotchman;  Dr.  Floreen,  my 
fellow-traveler,  and  two  others.  The  Englishmen  got  in  a  sur- 
prise on  us  at  first,  by  starting  before  the  command  was  given. 
That  bluff  did  not  work.  Now,  for  good!  The  major  gave  his 
old-time  command  of  the  great  plains.  His  burly  team  was 
entirely  under  his  control  at  once.  Hear  him  call !  We  walked 
off  with  the  Englishmen,  once,  twice,  at  all  times  and  entirely, 

99 


The  tug  of  war  was  ours  so  easily  that  one  of  our  team  tauntingly 
said:  "We  will  take  five  of  our  men  and  pull  any  eight  of  yours." 
It  was  a  small  pill,  but  very  sour,  and  the  English  sought  revenge 
in  replying:     "Well,  you  couldn't  have  done  it,  if  it  hadn't  been 

for  those Swedes," 

One  day  Dr.  Lawson  was  in  unusually  good  humor  and  then 
said:  "God  had  only  one  Son  and  He  made  Him  a  preacher  and 
a  missionary."  Then  the  doctor  looked  sad.  He  had  just  passed 
through  a  great  sorrow.  A  wonderfully  gifted  daughter,  learned, 
scholarly,  poetic,  had  been  snatched  from  his  household  by  death. 
The  kind-hearted  congregation  had  sent  their  pastor  and  his 
family  on  a  vacation.  We  saw  some  sea-gulls.  This  had  put 
the  gloom  on  the  bereaved  father's  face.  He  said:  "Come  with 
me."  In  his  cabin  he  showed  me  the  following  stanzas  by  his 
young,  departed  daughter: 

TO  A  SEA  GULL. 

Were  you  born  of  the  calm  of  the  soft  gray  skies, 

0,  gull  with  the  wings  of  white, 

I     Or  the  mighty  roar  of  the  restless  sea 
Stretching  to  the  utmost? 

You  have  flown  afar  from  the  ceaseless  beat 

Of  the  waves  on  the  quiet  shore, 
Have  you  found  a  haven  in  the  sunset  skies 

That  dream  of  the  never-more? 

You  have  left  behind  all  earthly  things 
To  sail  in  the  far-ofif  sky. 

1,  too,  long  to  rise,  I  strive  to  be  free, 
I  soar,  but  I  may  not  fly. 

For  my  weary  heart  falls  back  again 

Like  a  bird  with  a  wounded  wing — 
And  yet — if  our  longings  were  all  fulfilled. 

Would  life  more  sweetness  bring? 

So  full  of  peace  is  your  quiet  flight, 

So  full  of  unrest  the  sea. 
That  I  sit  and  dream  till  the  day  is  done 

The  fancies  that  come  to  me. 

My  weary  heart  is  the  sea,  dear, 

The  thought  of  thee,  the  flight 
Which  bears  me  far  on  quiet  wing 

To  a  land  of  pure  delight." 
lOO 


There  is  always  a  concert  towards  the  end  of  the  journey. 
We  had  one  also,  and  it  proved  to  be  a  very  enjoyable  occasion. 
Bishop  Gray  presided.  The  collection  plate  was  passed  by  the 
well-known  artist  and  actress,  Julia  Marlowe,  for  the  benefit  of 
the  Sailors'  Orphan  Home  in  Liverpool. 

Captain  Braes  was  a  fine  commander  and  a  perfect  gentle- 
man. We  all  fell  in  love  with  him.  I  visited  with  him  in  his 
office  and  learned  what  our  ship  was  carrying  across  for  the 
benefit  of  our  English  cousins.     Let  me  tell  you: — 

100,213  bushels  of  barley. 
20,000  bushels  of  oats. 
9,000  bushels  of  corn. 
10,000  sacks  of  flour, 
1,400  sacks  of  oatmeal. 
314  boxes  of  ham  and  bacon. 
300  packages  of  rubber. 
130  casks  of  copper. 
444  barrels  of  rosin,  oils,  etc. 
108  packages  of  funiture. 
375  old  car  axles. 
453  boxes  of  cheese. 
250  barrels  of  syrup. 
2,309  pigs  of  lead. 
100  barrels  oxide  of  zinc. 

I  carload  of  lumber. 
41  horses. 
336  packages  of  sundries. 

Our  passenger  list  numbered  yy  cabin,  76  second  cabin  and 
59  steerage  passengers.  The  crew  numbered  83  persons.  We 
carried  800  tons  of  coal  on  leaving  New  York  and  consumed  56 
tons  per  day. 

In  coming  to  America  the  "Mongolian"  had  carried  a  cargo 
of  beer,  whisky,  pitch,  linoleum,  wool,  granite,  earthenware, 
sacking,  iron  buckets,  mineral  waters,  oranges,  iron  gates,  wool- 
ens, linen,  lace  curtains,  cutlery. 

Some  readers  are  always  anxious  to  know  what  tourists  get 
to  eat  and  drink,  especially  on  the  ocean.  To  satisfy  their  curi- 
osity, I  asked  my  steward  for  the  bills  of  fare  of  one  day.  Here 
they  are: — 


lOI 


MENU. 

Allan  Line,  S.  S.  Mongolian 
Sunday,  6th  June,  '97. 

BREAKFAST. 

Boiled  Hominy. 
Porridge  and  Milk. 

Fried  Shad. 

Smoked  Herring. 

Stewed  Beefsteak  and  Mushrooms. 

Buttered  Eggs  on  Toast. 

Broiled  York  Ham. 

Corn  Fritters  and  Maple  Syrup. 

Mince  Collops  on  Toast. 

Broiled  Wittshire  Bacon. 

Fried  and  Boiled  Eggs  to  Order. 

American  Hash. 

Cold  York  Ham. 

Cold  Ox  Tongue. 

Hot  Rolls. 
Tea  and  Coffee. 


LUNCH. 

Boillion  Soup. 

Sardines. 

Hot: 

Fricassie  of  Chicken. 

Beef  Steak  Pie. 

Cold: 

Roast  Beef. 

Corned  Beef. 

Roast  Mutton. 

Stewed  Veal. 

Ox  Tongue. 

Brisket  of  Beef. 

Cumberland  Ham. 

Pig's  Feet. 

Head  Cheese. 

Bologna  Sausage. 

Salad  and  Cheese. 

Baked  and  Boiled  Potatoes. 

Stewed  Apples  and  Rice. 

Vanilla  Ice  Cream. 

Tea  and  Coffee. 

102 


DINNER. 

Soups: 

Americaine.  Oyster. 

Fish: 

Boiled  Salmon  and  Anchovy  Sauce. 

Entrees. 

Navaree  Ox  Tail.  Curried  Beef  and  Rice. 

Kromiskys  a  la  Russe. 

Joints. 

Roast  Lamb  and  Mint  Sauce.  Corned  Beef  and  Carrots. 

Roast  Turkey  a  la  Bovencale.  Braised  Beef  a  la  Mode. 

Ox  Heart,  Sage  and  Onions- 
Vegetables: 
String  Beans.  Turnips.  Mashed  and  Plain  Potatoes. 

Sweets: 
Plum  Pudding.  Rice  Pudding.  Wine  Jelly.  Swiss  Apple  Tart. 

Compote  of  Peaches.      Stewed  Rhubarb.      Sponge  Cake.      Jam  Tartlets. 

Fruit. 
Tea  and  Coffee. 

Finally  we  sighted  land  one  beautiful  afternoon  at  3:30 
o'clock.  Some  of  our  passengers  were  landed  at  Moville,  Ire- 
land, a  couple  of  hours  later.  The  next  morning  we  passed  up 
the  beautiful  Clyde,  arriving  in  busy,  prosperous  Glasgow  early 
in  the  forenoon.  We  parted  with  the  steady,  safe  "Mongolian" 
and  its  gallant  captain  almost  with  sadness  and  regrets.  Our 
voyage  had  been  both  safe  and  pleasant  and  will  never  be  for- 
gotten. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

From  Malmo  to  Stockholm. 

I  honestly  wondered  how  dear  old  Sweden  and  its  lovely 
capital  would  look  after  we  had  first  seen  London,  Paris,  the 
Rhine  and  Berlin.  We  had  enjoyed  the  sights  so  hugely;  we 
had  almost  raved  among  the  vast  treasures  of  art,  history  and 
archeology;  yes,  we  felt  that  we  had  traveled  rather  too  fast, 
taken  in  too  much,  and  seen  the  greatest  things  first.     There 

103 


are  dangers  connected  with  this  mode  of  tourist-Hfe.  It  may 
produce  a  feehng  of  satiety,  that  prevents  further  e'njoyment. 

We  reached  King  Oscar's  country  at  Malmo  and  took  a 
limited  train  at  1 1  .-05  p.  m.  for  Stockhohii.  It  was  a  most  pleas- 
ant train  and  trip.  The  distance,  383  miles,  was  covered  in 
twelve  hours  and  a  half,  including  stop  for  breakfast  and  at  all 
important  stations.  The  fare,  second  class,  was  fourteen  dollars. 
Our  train  did  not  carry  third  class  coaches,  otherwise  we  should 
have  bought  that  kind  of  a  ticket,  which  is  much  cheaper.  You 
ask  quite  naturally:  What  kind  of  railroad  coaches  have  they 
in  Sweden?  Answer:  All  kinds,  nearly.  Travel  is  divided 
into  three  classes.  '"Only  fools  and  Americans  travel  first  class," 
that  was  told  to  me  in  England.  It  holds  good  pretty  much  all 
over  Europe.  You  may  indeed  once  in  a  great  while  feel  will- 
ing to  pay  something  extra  for  the  privilege  of  traveling  alone 
and  so  take  first  class.  Otherwise  second  class  is  plenty  good 
enough  for  anyone,  and  third  class  is  sufficient  for  the  most  of 
us.  Members  of  European  Congresses  and  Parliaments  travel 
third  class.  I  know  it,  because  I  have  made  their  acquaintance 
in  third  class  coaches. 

Well,  we  are  in  a  second  class  car  this  time.  It  was  called 
a  corridor  coach  and  had  an  aisle  on  one  side  of  the  car,  from 
which  doors  led  to  compartments  with  two  broad,  splendidly 
upholstered  lounges,  racks  for  baggage,  hooks  for  coats  and 
cloaks,  mirrors,  etc.,  in  each  and  a  door  that  locked  from  the 
inside.  The  aisle  or  corridor  led  to  toilet  rooms,  and  gave  us 
the  usual  connection  with  the  balance  of  the  train.  There  are, 
as  a  rule,  a  sufficient  number  of  cars  to  avoid  crowding,  and 
so  the  conductor  gave  Mrs.  S.  and  myself  a  room  all  to  ourselves 
for  the  entire  trip  and  without  a  cent  of  extra  charge.  Uphol- 
stered pillows  were  found  on  the  lounges  and  we  had  an  unusu- 
ally comfortable  sleeping  car,  paying  nothing  for  the  privilege. 
Afterwards  we  learned  that  for  81  cents  extra  we  would  have 
been  entitled  to  a  room  in  a  compartment  sleeping  car  for  the 
entire  distance.  What  say  you  fellow-Americans  at  home  about 
such  prices?  One  dollar  and  sixty-two  cents  for  a  room  for 
two,  a  compartment  in  a  sleeping  car  for  383  miles.  The  Pull- 
man and  Wagner  rates  ought  to  be  cut  in  two.  It  can  not  be 
done  any  too  soon,  either.  A  large  part  of  our  population  at 
home  must  constantly  travel.  Unless  they  desire  a  premature 
death,  they  must  seek  sleep  at  night.     Just  think  of  it;  you 

104 


first  pay  for  a  first  class  ticket,  and  sometimes  a  little  extra  be- 
cause the  train  is  limited,  and  then  three  dollars  for,  not  a  room, 
but  a  berth  in  a  Pullman  car.  The  rate  here  in  a  compartment 
car  is  slightly  above  one-fourth  of  our  American  prices.  It 
seems  to  me  that  our  railroad  companies  as  a  rule  are  very  rea- 
sonable as  to  passenger  rates,  but  the  Pullman  and  Wagner  rates 
are  simply  absurdly  high  and  merit  a  very  essential  reduction. 

The  conductor  was  exceedingly  polite  and  gave  us  all  neces- 
sary information  about  breakfast,  etc.,  without  solicitation.  In 
short,  everything  made  a  pleasant  impression  upon  us.  I  slept 
about  four  hours  and  then  my  tourist  nature  conquered  Mr. 
Sleep.  I  saw  beautiful  Smaland  and  wealthy  Ostergotland  once 
more.  It  was  delightful.  Spring  and  summer  in  one,  warmth 
without  heat,  lakes  and  rivers,  mountains  and  valleys,  and  signs 
everywhere  of  an  industrious.  God-fearing  and  law-abiding  peo- 
ple. Sweden  is  growing,  is  developing.  While  we  have  tam- 
pered with  Free  Trade,  the  Country  of  my  Fathers  is  enjoying 
the  blessed  results  of  a  protective  and  patriotic  policy.  Rich, 
wealthy  America  ends  this  year  with  a  deficit  of  enormous  pro- 
portions; little  Sweden,  full  of  peace  and  happiness,  and  attend- 
ing strictly  to  its  own  business,  closes  the  ledger  year  after  year 
with  millions  to  its  credit.  Yes,  and  we  are  a  Republic  and 
they  are  a  Monarchy.  I  tell  you,  fellow-Americans,  we  must 
do  better  again  in  America,  or  we  will  most  assuredly  bring 
popular  government  to  shame  and  disrepute. 

At  Katrineholm  we  stopped  for  breakfast.  Here  you  are. 
A  large,  commodious  dining-room,  scrupulously  neat  and  clean. 
In  it  a  great  table  in  the  center.  By  its  side  a  smaller  table. 
On  the  first  a  splendid  array  of  eatables;  on  the  latter  the  best 
of  cofifee,  tea  and  milk.  Help  yourselves.  Get  your  plate,  knife 
and  fork,  take  cold  veal,  roast  or  ham,  or  fish;  sit  down  at  one 
of  the  many  smaller  tables  and  eat  at  your  leisure.  All  right, 
here  are  your  eggs,  your  cutlets,  your  potatoes,  new  plate  and 
a  fresh  start.  Through?  Good  and  well.  Here  are  your  straw- 
berries and  cream,  unless  you  prefer  more  of  the  former,  and 
more  colTee,  or  tea,  or  milk;  and  for  seven  cents  extra  a  bottle 
of  good  beer  is  added  to  your  breakfast.  Why,  all  this  is  splen- 
did, no  crowding,  no  waiting  for  your  orders,  no  delay  by  stupid 
or  cranky  waiters.  You  have  finished  a  most  excellent  meal  in 
plenty  of  time,  and  the  price  is  only  40  cents.  Why,  it  is  natural 
that  one  should  feel  in  the  very  best  of  humor  after  such  treat- 

107 


ment  Two  hours  later  our  train  rolls  into  the  great  Central 
Station  in  Stockholm,  and  there  we  were  met  by  a  friend  from— 
Kansas. 


io8 


CHAPTER  Vm. 

The  Swedish-American  Singers. 

One  of  the  most  remarkable  and  noted  facts  in  connection 
with  the  Exposition  as  far  as  this  country  is  concerned  was  the 
Swedish  tour  of  a  large  and  selected  male  chorus  of  singers,  rep- 
resenting the  several  organizations  in  this  country,  combined  in 
the  Swedish  Singers'  Union  of  North  America. 

I  met  some  of  these  gentlemen  in  Stockholm  the  very  day  of 
my  arrival.  They  had  been  exceedingly  well  received  every- 
where and  rejoiced  that  the  long  spoken  of  trip  had  materialized. 

The  King  had  received  them  very  graciously.  This  was 
highly  appreciated  by  everybody.  One  of  the  officers  said  to 
me:  "Yes,  I  liked  it  very  much  because  of  the  boys  who  enjoy 
such  displays."  The  King  spoke  so  pleasantly  to  them,  that 
some  felt  very  embarrassed,  and  one  is  reported  as  having  for- 
gotten his  name. 

I  visited  the  headquarters  of  the  singers  the  next  day.  It 
seemed  we  were  in  Chicago  again,  not  in  far-away  Stockholm. 
I  heard  the  United  Singers  at  the  World's  Fair  in  Chicago  on 
Swedes  Day,  the  21st  of  July,  1893,  ^"^  appreciated  to  hear  a 
part  of  them  in  Stockholm  this  summer.  They  sang  well.  Their 
pronunciation  was  good,  the  phrasing  and  coloring  seemed 
perfect.  No  wonder  that  they  were  well  received  everywhere. 
They  well  deserved  it. 

I  met  Director  Ortengren,  Messrs.  Johansen,  Hallbom  and 
others.  From  the  newspapers  and  other  documents  at  my  dis- 
posal, I  desire  to  present  a  brief  narrative  of  their  trip. 

Let  me  tell  first  of  all  then  about  their  grand  annual  meeting 
at  New  York  just  previous  to  their  tour  abroad. 

The  report  appeared  in  the  well-known  "Hemlandet"  of  Chi- 
cago, and  is  as  follows: — 

109 


"The  Swedish  Singers'  Union  of  America  held  a  great  singers' 
festival  on  Tuesday  and  Wednesday  of  last  week  in  New  York, 
the  second  meeting  since  the  association  was  founded.  It  was 
equally  as  successful  as  the  former  meeting,  which  was  held  at 
Chicago  during  the  World's  Fair  in  1893. 

At  eight  o'clock,  Tuesday  morning,  the  first  guests  began  to 
arrive.  At  that  time  the  boats  of  the  Norwich  Line  arrived 
with  singers  from  Boston,  New  Haven,  and  other  places.  The 
singers  from  the  northeastern  states  were  received  at  the  harbor 
by  the  president  of  the  association,  Mr.  Chas.  Johansen,  and  the 
reception  committee  of  the  New  York  singers.  Shortly  after 
nine  o'clock,  singers  from  the  west  came  in  via  the  Erie  railroad. 
Their  number  was  between  sixty  and  seventy  and  consisted  of 
members  chosen  from  the  Swedish  Glee  Club  and  the  Svithiod 
Club  of  Chicago,  together  with  singers  from  Rockford,  111.,  and 
other  places. 

These  singers  and  others  from  the  West  had  been  induced 
to  give  two  concerts  while  en  route  on  Sunday  afternoon  and 
evening  at  Jamestown,  N.  Y.  The  afternoon  program  was  ren- 
dered principally  by  Svithiod's  singers,  the  evening  program 
by  the  singers  of  the  Glee  Club.  Both  concerts  were  very  well 
attended  and  aided  materially  in  strengthening  the  association's 
treasury. 

Upon  their  arrival  at  New  York  the  Glee  Club  and  several 
others  stopped  at  the  Morton  House,  while  Svithiod's  members 
were  kindly  entertained  at  the  Stevens  House  by  its  proprietor, 
Mr.  A.  E.  Johnson.  The  Harmony  Club  from  Boston  stopped  at 
the  Bartholdi  House  on  23rd  street.  At  the  Stevens  House  were 
also  registered  besides  the  Svithiod  singers,  the  Glee  Club  of 
Boston;  Brage  of  Worcester;  Orpheus  of  New  Haven  and  several 
individual  members  ficrn  the  societies  at  Rockford.  111.,  Provi- 
dence, R.  I.,  New  Britain  and  other  cities. 

After  the  singers  had  renewed  old  acquaintanceship,  they  sep- 
arated, some  to  take  in  the  sights  of  the  city,  others  to  find 
acquaintances.  Here  and  there  about  the  city  one  could  occa- 
sionally catch  glimpses  of  their  well-known  white  caps.  The 
headquarters  of  the  association  were  established  at  the  hall  of 
the  New  York  society,  which  showed  its  hospitality  in  a  most 
pleasing  manner. 

On  Tuesday  afternoon  at  two  o'clock,  the  singers  assembled 
for  rehearsal  at  the  Carnegie  ^lusic  Hall  under  the  leadership  of 

no 


Director  Ortengren.  The  chorus,  which  numbered  about  350 
voices,  was  powerful  and  harmonious.  The  first  tenor  and  sec- 
ond bass  parts  were  especially  well  represented,  and  the  singers, 
who  were  to  perform  in  the  evening,  rehearsed  their  parts  with 
skill  and  spirit. 

Carnegie  Hall,  which  has  a  seating  capacity  of  3,000  persons, 
w^as  beautifully  and  richly  decorated  with  the  Swedish  and  Ameri- 
can colors.  In  the  center  on  the  wall  behind  the  singers  was 
placed  an  American  shield,  sustained  by  a  golden  eagle  and 
around  the  shield  was  draped  the  Swedish  flag.  Beneath  the 
shield  were  the  words  A.  U.  S.  S.  (American  Union  of  Swedish 
Singers)  in  blue  and  yellow  electric  lights.  On  all  sides  of  this 
eiTective  decoration  were  similar  shields  with  American  flags 
draped  about  them.  Along  the  four  rows  large  American  flags 
were  festooned,  and  between  every  two  American  flags  were 
suspended  numerous  smaller  Swedish  and  American  flags. 

An  immense  Swedish  flag  floated  from  the  flag-pole  above 
the  headquarters,  and  over  the  entrance  were  hung  Swedish  and 
American  flags  together  with  a  transparency  with  the  words: 
"Headquarters  of  the  American  Union  of  Swedish  Singers." 

On  Tuesday  evening  an  audience  of  about  1,500  persons  had 
gathered  at  the  concert  hall.  The  large  choir  then  rendered  the 
selections  "Hor  oss  Svea,"  "Lankjending,"  with  a  solo  by  Mr. 
Swedelius,  "Hiirliga  land,"  "Stridsbon"  and  "The  Star  Spangled 
Banner"  in  such  a  highly  pleasing  manner  that  they  were  re- 
warded by  tumultuous  applause.  The  smaller  choruses,  which 
appeared  during  the  program  of  the  afternoon,  were  very  select, 
and  they  also  gave  evidence  that  they  had  worked  diligently 
and  with  earnestness. 

They  were  all  compelled  to  respond  to  encores.  Svithiod's 
singers,  who  had  been  the  giants  of  the  evening,  were  compelled 
to  give  two  additional  selections.  Their  remarkable  ensemble 
singing  and  perfection,  both  as  to  tone  and  time,  their  mag- 
nificent and  sonorous  tenor  voices,  the  splendid  singing  of  Mr. 
Swedelius,  the  soloist,  did  much  to  arouse  and  retain  the  interest 
of  the  public.  The  assisting  artists  were  also  rewarded  with 
much  applause.  INIrs.  Hallbeck  rendered  an  aria  from  "Den 
Bergtagna"  and  received  an  encore.  A  polka  by  Dannstrom, 
and  a  waltz  aria  from  "Romeo  and  Juliet"  by  Miss  Lila  Juel  were 
rendered  very  meritoriously.  Mr.  Behrens  sang  an  aria  from 
"Trollflojten"  with  accustomed  skill. 

Ill 


The  orchestra,  under  the  leadership  of  Director  Ringwall, 
consisted  of  45  members  and  was  composed  exclusively  of  noted 
musicians. 

Among  those  who  attended  the  concert  were  noticed:  Mayor 
Strong  of  New  York,  together  with  the  consul-general  of  Sweden 
and  Norway,  Mr.  Karl  Woxen. 

On  Wednesday  morning  a  business  meeting  was  held  at  head- 
quarters. Mr.  Johansen  presided  as  chairman.  It  was  deter- 
mined at  this  meeting  that  the  next  festival  should  be  held  at 
Brooklyn.  The  election  of  ofBcers  resulted  as  follows:  Mr. 
Holmes,  president;  Mr.  Theo.  Nieckels  of  Brooklyn,  secretary; 
Mr.  William  Dahlen  of  Chicago,  first  vice-president;  and  Mr. 
Hjalmar  Nilsson,  local  editor  of  "Skandinavia"  in  Worcester, 
Mass.,  second  vice-president. 

On  Wednesday  evening,  another  concert  was  given  at  the 
Carnegie  Music  Hall,  and  this  was  also  a  success. 

The  societies  which  took  part  in  the  festival  were  as  follows: 
Glee  Club,  Chicago,  with  20  members;  Svithiod,  Chicago,  18; 
Lyran,  Chicago,  6;  Glee  Club,  Boston,  24;  Harmony,  Boston,  15; 
Brage,  Worcester,  24;  Orpheus,  New  Kaven,  15;  Lyran,  Bridge- 
port, 4;  Orpheus,  Minneapolis,  2;  Pacius,  Jamestown,  2;  Svea, 
Moline,  111.,  i;  Svea,  Minneapolis,  8;  Sons  of  Svea,  Rockford, 
111.,  7;  Swedish  Singing  Society,  Perth  Amboy,  N.  J.,  8;  Swedish 
Singing  Society,  McKeesport,  Pa.,  4;  Glee  Club,  Brooklyn,  36; 
Lyran,  New  York,  30;  Svea,  New  York,  34;  Blue  Band,  Brook- 
lyn, 24;  Linnea,  Brooklyn,  21;  and  the  Amateur  Club  of  Brook- 
lyn, 28. 

On  Saturday  about  one  hundred  of  the  association's  best 
singers  embarked  on  the  "City  of  Rome"  and  thus  began  the 
appointed  voyage  to  Sweden." 

The  following  about  the  reception  accorded  the  singers  in 
Gothenburg  is  a  fair  sample  of  how  the  Swedes  received  these, 
their  welcome  brethren  from  our  shores: — 

"It  had  been  determined  that  the  committee,  together  with 
the  Bricoll  chorus  and  others  interested,  should  meet  our  lon^ 
expected  countrymen  from  the  other  side  of  the  Atlantic,  out  at 
sea,  and  at  Vinga  extend  to  them  the  first  greetings  of  welcome. 
But  fate  had  ordained  otherwise.  "Bele"  arrived  several  hours 
sooner  than  was  expected,  the  steamship  excursion  had  to  be 
deferred,  and  both  we  and  the  strangers  were  disappointed  in 
the  hope  for  a  more  festive  meeting,  which  would  doubtless  have 

112 


accompanied  a  reception  out  at  sea,  while  the  strains  of  music 
alternately  resounded  from  the  steamers  and  echoed  against  the 
cliflfs  of  our  native  land. 

The  reception  was,  if  not  so  festive,  nevertheless  as  cordial, 
although,  of  course,  the  altered  time  of  arrival  prevented  so 
large  a  gathering  at  the  wharf  as  there  would  otherwise  have  been. 

At  half  past  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  the  "Bele"  came  in 
sight.  She  was  soon  in  sit  the  wharf,  and,  while  the  steamer 
was  fastened  to  the  shore,  the  singers  gathered  on  deck  and,  with 
uncovered  heads,  sang  "Vart  Land."  The  beautiful  song,  so 
suitable  to  the  occasion,  evidently  made  a  deep  impression  on  the 
minds,  not  only  of  the  assembled  people  of  Goteborg,  but  also 
of  the  Americans  themselves. 

After  the  last  sound  of  the  music  had  died  away  Editor 
Henrik  Hedlund  proposed  a  "Long  live  the  singers"  and  this 
was  followed  by  loud  and  prolonged  cheers. 

Shortly  after  the  singers  were  welcomed  by  the  committee 
and  relatives  and  friends.  They  were  then  conducted  to  a  hotel 
and  after  much  needed  rest  from  their  long  journey  and  a  short 
tour  about  the  city,  they  gathered  at  half  past  eight  in  the  even- 
ing for  the  festival  at  Lorensberg,  to  which  the  singers  had  been 
invited.  So  many  of  the  city's  inhabitants  had  seized  this  oppor- 
tunity of  welcoming  their  countrymen  that  the  drawing-room 
of  the  Alhambra  was  filled  to  the  uttermost  even  before  the  be- 
ginning of  the  festivities.  Over  eight  hundred  people  were  said 
to  be  assembled. 

After  they  had  partaken  of  supper,  they  all  gathered  around 
their  bowls.  During  supper  the  Swedish-Americans  had  a  splen- 
did opportunity  to  revive  acquaintanceship  at  a  genuine  Swedish 
"huggsexa." 

The  first  toast  of  the  evening  was  proposed  by  the  United 
States  Consul  Boyesen,  and  elicited  cheers  for  his  majesty,  King 
Oscar,  and  the  President  of  the  United  States.  Thereupon 
"Ur  Svenska  hjertans  djup"  was  sung  by  Gota  Par  Bricoll's 
chorus. 

Then  followed  the  address  of  Editor  Henrik  Hedlund  to  the 
guests: — 

"We  had  expected  the  pleasure  of  meeting  our  guests  even 
out  at  sea.  But  they  are  Swedish-Americans  and  consequently 
know  how  to  take  care  of  time;  we  were  forestalled  by  them. 
So  much  more  cordial  does  our  greeting  of  welcome  to  them 

113 


become.  The  old  and  yet  new  Sweden  has  with  anxious  heart 
seen  thousands  upon  thousands  of  her  sons  and  daughters  leave 
this  country  where  they  could  be  of  so  much  good;  but  she 
has  been  compelled  to  recognize  in  this  a  law  of  nature.  It 
bears  testimony  to  the  vitality  of  a  people  to  be  able  to  send  out 
so  many  to  a  foreign  land.  They  have  been  a  credit  and  an 
honor  to  their  old  mother  country,  who  welcomes  them  with  a 
heart  filled  with  pride  and  joy.  Probably,  they  are  returning 
like  those,  who,  having  left  the  paternal  estate,  return  to  see 
how  things  are  at  home.  Many  among  you  doubtless  experi- 
enced a  strange  and  unaccountable  feeling  in  your  hearts  when 
you  saw  again  the  fences  around  the  homes  of  your  fathers,  the 
old,  native  clififs,  towering  above  the  water. 

And  now  you  have  landed  and  will  see  the  changes  that 
have  taken  place  in  the  old  world.  You  will  find  much  that 
has  grown  old,  but  nevertheless  you  will  find  much  that  will 
bear  evidence  that  the  old  mother  is  still  spry  and  active  and 
understands  how  to  meet  the  demands  of  the  times.  Her 
thoughts  and  actions  can  be  favorably  compared  with  those  of 
other,  probably  larger  and  richer,  nations.  You  will  find,  as  if 
placed  on  a  tray,  before  you,  the  best  that  we  have  conceived 
and  accomplished  during  your  absence,  gathered  at  the  Stock- 
holm Exposition. 

It  often  happens  that  he  who  leaves  his  native  land  carries 
with  Him  some  native  custom.  There  are  few  things  which  so 
gladden  our  hearts  as  to  see  the  good  old  home  customs  cher- 
ished as  dear  and  valuable  gifts.  The  custom  which  you  have 
carried  with  you  is  that  of  Northern  song.  Thanks  are  due  to 
you  that  it  thrives  in  that  great  country  beyond  the  sea.  It  is 
with  gladness  and  joy  that  we  perceive  how  the  old  custom 
flourishes  there  and  brings  brightness  and  joy  to  life.  As  "Bele" 
to-day  approached  the  harbor  the  glorious  song,  "Vart  Land," 
echoed  from  its  deck.  On  such  an  occasion  it  is  not  to  be  won- 
dered at  that  all  experience  thrills  of  deep  emotion.  You  were 
received  with  rejoicing  and  gladness  and  fraternal  feelings.  May 
we  again  in  Sweden  hear  your  songs!  Everywhere  you  will  be 
received  most  kindly. 

First  and  last;  welcome  to  Goteborg!     A  hearty  welcome!" 

This  address  was  delivered  with  warmth  and  was  followed 
by  cheers  of  "Long  live  the  Swedish-American  Singers'  Asso- 
ciation," 

114 


The  Bricoll  singers  then  sang  an  improvised  "Valkomsthel- 
sning  till  v^ra  vanner,"  and  "Jag  vet  ett  land." 

Director  Ortengren  stepped  up  and  commanded  his  com' 
pany  of  fifty-four  men  strong  to  gather  about  him.  After  they 
had  assembled  on  the  platform  Dr.  Victor  Nilsson  of  Minne- 
apolis responded  to  the  address  of  welcome: 

"The  singers  desire  to  express  with  deep  emotion  their  thanks 
for  this  cordial  reception.  Mr.  Hedlund  said  that  the  people  of 
Goteborg  had  been  anticipated,  but  the  singers  had  not  expected 
being  received  with  a  kindness  and  hospitality  so  greatly  in  ad- 
vance of  what  they  had  anticipated.  It  is  indeed  delightful  that 
our  company  were  so  unreservedly  received  in  Goteborg,  itself 
so  reserved. 

We  have  not  come  here  for  the  purpose  of  competing  with 
your  own  sons  of  song,  nor  yet  to  show  what  we  ourselves  can 
do,  but  rather  to  bring  greetings  from  the  great  country,  where 
our  countrymen  naturally  congregate.  Receive  what  we  have 
to  give,  we  shall  do  our  best." 

Then  the  great  chorus  sang  Wennerberg's  "Hor  oss  Svea." 
It  was  sung  with  power  and  feeling,  the  harmony  was  excellent, 
the  articulation  clear.  They  were  rewarded  with  a  storm  of  ap- 
plause. 

Ass't  judge  of  the  district,  P.  Lamberg,  then  addressed  the 
leader  of  the  chorus: 

"The  Swedish  art  of  song  has,  indeed,  had  numerous  re- 
nowned representatives  who  have  earned  fame  and  reputation 
abroad,  where  also  our  Swedish  Student  choruses  have  won  de- 
cisive victories.  That  beautiful  and  harmonious  voices  are  found 
among  those  of  Svea's  sons  who  have  sought  homes  beyond  the 
sea,  has  just  now  been  evidenced.  But,  good  chorus  singing 
requires  not  alone  a  muuber  of  singers,  they  must  be  led,  inter- 
ested, and  cheered,  if  good  results  are  to  be  attained.  As  the 
speaker  now,  on  behalf  of  those  present,  addresses  himself  to 
Director  Johan  Ortengren,  it  is  not  to  a  stranger  to  Swedish 
music-loving  people;  on  the  contrary,  many  have  held  him  in 
grateful  remembrance  ever  since  he  so  enhanced  and  elevated 
the  royal  opera,  and  since  then  his  fame  has  reached  our  ears, 
especially  as  the  successful  leader  of  the  Chicago  Glee  Club.  A 
hearty  thanks  for  faithful  and  skilled  work  for  Swedish  song! 
The  thanks  of  all  Swedes  is  due  to  everyone  who  extends  the 
knowledge  of  Sweden  and  its  culture." 

119 


"Long  live  Ortengren"— and  shouts  of  hurrah  greet  the  ears 
of  Diiector  Ortengren,  who  expressed  his  gratitude  and  then 
lequested  the  members  of  the  Glee  Club  to  sing  a  song.  Witt's 
"I  natten"  was  rendered  in  a  highly  appropriate  manner. 

Aron  Jonasson,  court  photographer,  thereupon  recited  a  hu- 
morous production  which  he  had  written  in  honor  of  the  Swed- 
ish singers.  Its  rendition  was  frequently  interrupted  by  ap- 
plause. 

After  the  reading  of  the  poem  the  Bricoli  chorus  rendered 
several  selections  from  Bellman,  "Drick  ur  ditt  glas,"  and  "Ski- 
den  hit,  mark  och  mins." 

Mr.  G.  O.  Borjesson  proposed  the  toast  for  the  Swedish- 
American  woman;  the  choir  sang  "Kornmodsglansen,"  and  Edi- 
tor Henrik  Hedlund  in  conclusion  thanked  the  singers,  both  the 
Swedish-Americans  and  those  of  Goteborg. 

This  closed  the  formal  part  of  the  program  but  the  people 
remained  and  spent  an  hour  in  pleasant  chat  and  song. 

The  general  opinion  was  that  the  festival  had  been  a  success 
in  a  marked  degree  and  that  the  participants  would  ever  cherish 
pleasant  memories  of  the  occasion. 

The  matinee  in  the  Park  was,  as  was  expected,  given  to  a 
crowded  house.  Already  at  the  entrance,  placards  announced 
that  all  tickets  had  been  sold  and  when  the  time  arrived  for  the 
commencement  of  the  program,  the  large  concert  hall  and  its 
galleries  were  filled  with  an  audience  that  awaited  with  great 
interest  the  appearance  of  the  musicians.  .\  quarter  of  an  hour 
or  more,  past  the  time  set,  slipped  by  and  on  account  of  the 
heat  of  the  room,  the  audience  began  to  be  impatient;  but  Mr. 
Ortengren  then  appeared  on  the  platform,  followed  by  his  com- 
pany of  singers,  clad  in  festival  habit  and  decorated  with  singer's 
badges,  and  all  at  once  the  audience  was  transformed  into  atten- 
tive listeners. 

The  first  number  of  the  program  was  Wennerberg's  "Hor 
OSS  Svea,"  and  powerful  waves  of  sound  rolled  through  the  hall. 
The  hall  is  by  no  means  perfect  with  respect  to  its  acoustics; 
and  filled,  as  it  now  was,  it  became  probably  more  unfavorable 
than  usual.  Nevertheless,  this  apparently  inspired  company  of 
singers  victoriously  met  all  difficulties,  and  the  song  produced 
a  most  touching  impression.  This  was  in  truth  a  festive  occa- 
sion when  old  Sweden  was  given  the  pleasure  of  listening  to 
tones,  which  in  spite  of  the  fact  that  their  bearers  had  been 

120 


remote  from  their  native  land  for  years,  nevertheless  exhibited 
that  strength  and  vigor,  which  is  such  a  marked  characteristic 
of  Swedish  song.  The  interexchange  of  sympathies  and  feehngs 
between  the  singers  and  the  audience  was  overpowering.  A 
thundering  applause  followed  the  rendition  of  the  song  and 
recalled  the  singers  to  the  stage  when  they,  in  recognition  of  this 
kindness,  gave  as  an  encore  the  old  selection  from  Bellman,  'Ur 
vagen  for  gamla  Smithens  bar."  This  decided  it,  and  every 
succeeding  number  had  to  be  follow^ed  by  an  encore  so  that, 
thanks  to  the  good  nature  of  the  singers,  the  program  was 
doubled. 

Among  the  encores,  especial  notice  was  taken  of  the  one  that 
succeeded  Josephson's  "Virt  Land."  It  was  a  genuine  negro 
song  which  has  been  so  incorporated  into  the  songs  of  America 
that  it  can  almost  be  characterized  as  a  national  song,  "Way 
down  upon  the  Suwanee  river,  far,  far  away,"  are  the  intro- 
ductory words  to  this  w^onderfully  touching  song,  whose  whole 
burden  is  a  sigh  and  a  longing  for  home.  During  her  Ameri- 
can tour,  Christine  Nilsson  had  this  song  in  her  repertoire,  and 
much  of  the  never-to-be-forgotten  memory,  which  the  singer  left 
on  the  other  side  of  the  Atlantic,  consists  in  the  power  with 
which  she  rendered  this  favorite  melody.  Especial  mention  of 
every  song  w^ould  be  tedious  but,  nevertheless,  it  should  be  men- 
tioned that  the  audience  was  aroused  to  the  highest  pitch  of 
enthusiasm  at  the  sound  of  "Bjorneborgsmarschen"  and  that 
part  of  Soderman's  "Bond  brollop"  which  was  given  as  an  en- 
core. 

From  the  foregoing  it  appears  that  the  worthy  chorus,  under 
their  invincible  leader,  would  have  been  highly  successful  with- 
out outside  aid.  However,  the  singers,  for  the  sake  of  variety 
in  the  program  and  with  a  view  of  reviving  the  memory  of 
common  conquests,  had  engaged  our  country's  most  prominent 
concert  soloist,  Carl  Fredrik  Lundquist,  whose  presence  on  the 
program  richly  enhanced  its  value  to  the  charmed  audience. 
Then,  the  audience  was  carried  away  by  Svedborn's  character- 
istic song,  "Sten  Sture,"  by  Sjogren's  no  less  masterly  "Fogden 
i  Tenneberg,"  and  in  conclusion  by  several  folksongs  on  which 
he  bestowed  the  true  humor  and  the  effective  dramatic  rendition 
which  he  alone  is  able  to  give.  He  was  recalled  repeatedly  after 
this  number,  and  it  w^as  evidently  the  purpose  of  the  audience 
to  hear  also  Lundquist's  old,  popular  stand-by,  '"Du  gamla,  du 

121 


friska,"  but  he  as  plainly  evidenced  his  determination  not  to  com- 
ply with  their  wish  and  he  doubtless  will  show  his  gratitude  later 
on  to  the  ally  who  finally  induced  the  audience  to  cease  their 
clamor  for  the  fulfillment  of  their  wishes.  The  closing  number 
was  the  American  national  song,  "Star  Spangled  Banner,"  which 
formed  a  fitting  close  to  the  festivities.  It  not  only  gave  the 
audience  undivided  pleasure  but  may  well  be  considered  as  an 
encouraging  introduction  to  the  visit  of  the  American  singers 
with  us  in  Sweden. 

The  photographing  of  the  chorus,  both  as  a  whole  and  in 
separate  groups,  took  place  yesterday  at  eleven  o'clock,  after 
the  singers  had  breakfasted  at  the  Park.  Even  before  the  close 
of  the  concert  the  photographer,  Mr.  A.  Jonason,  exhibited 
large  sized  copies  of  the  groups.  This  was  surely  a  record  in 
rapid  photography  and,  as  evidence  of  this,  the  singers  them- 
selves can  be  quoted,  for  on  seeing  them,  they  were  heard  to  say: 
"This  could  not  have  been  done  more  rapidly  even  in  America." 

The  photographer  has  certainly  every  reason  to  be  satisfied 
with  this  acknowledgment. 

The  departure  takes  place  to-day  at  9:35  a.  m.  on  the  fast 
train  of  the  West  Coast  railway.  The  singers  give  a  matinee 
at  Halmstad  to-day  and  a  concert  at  Helsingborg.  From  there 
they  go  to  Malmo,  Kopenham,  and  then  on  to  Stockholm  and 
other  Swedish  towns. 

The  following  is  from  Stockholm: — 

"When,  yesterday  at  noon,  the  singers  assembled  at  the  south 
arch  of  the  Palace,  wearing  their  white  caps  with  Swedish- 
American  emblems,  they  were  received  by  the  especially  invited 
guests,  Minister  Fergusson,  Consuls  O'Neil  and  Georgii,  and 
Merchant  Michael  Samuel. 

After  their  reception  they  betook  themselves  to  the  center 
of  the  Palace-yard,  where  songs  were  rendered.  The  King  was 
seated  in  a  window  above.  While  "Virt  Land"  was  being  sung 
he  came  down  to  the  singers  and  conversed  with  Director  Ortcn- 
gren  and  several  of  the  singers.  The  king  expressed  a  de  i"e 
to  hear  the  Swedish  National  song,  and  it  was  listened  to  by  hiiii 
and  those  present  wath  bared  heads — after  which  the  king  invitsd 
them  all  to  partake  of  lunch. 

In  the  large  hall  were  seen  his  Excellency  Bostiom,  secretary 
of  state,  and  several  other  members  of  the  cabinet,  f  rst  marshal  of 
the  court,  Count  von  Rosen,  Duke  D'Otrante,  cab  net-chamber- 

122 


lain,  Baron  Cederstrom,  and  many  other  personages  of  note.  The 
hnich  proceeded  during  a  delightful  conversation.  The  King 
appeared  and  pressed  the  hands  of  many  of  the  Swedish-Ameri- 
cans and  engaged  in  friendly  conversation  with  them. 

Thereupon  the  King  commanded  silence  and  uttered  the  fol- 
lowing words: — 

"My  friends!  As  you  now  arrive  in  the  land  of  your  fathers 
on  this  side  of  the  broad  Atlantic  and  return  to  the  country' 
where  your  forefathers  struggled,  suffered  and  died,  I,  as  the 
King  of  that  nation,  desire  to  greet  you  welcome.  E'en  though 
it  is  with  pleasure  that  we  receive  you  in  our  midst,  neverthe- 
less, it  is  with  regret  that  mother  Svea  sees  her  sons  leave  their 
native  land.  But  you  may  be  assured  that,  as  long  as  you  do 
not  forget  your  old  mother  country,  your  progress  will  be  noted 
by  mother  Svea  with  pleasure.     God  be  with  you!" 

These  words  were  listened  to  by  the  guests  with  the  deepest 
emotion. 

The  singers  shouted  "Long  live  the  king"  and  followed  this 
up  by  four  cheers  of  energetic  hurrahs.  They  then  sang  "Glad 
sSsom  fogeln,"  (Happy  as  a  bird)  in  which  the  Kingj'oined. 

Director  John  Ortengren,  Editor  Charles  Johansen,  Dr. 
Victor  Nilsson,  Cashier  G.  Hallbom,  and  Architect  M.  Dahlander 
were  introduced  to  the  King.  He  promised  to  attend  their  concert. 

After  the  King  had  retired  the  strangers  were  conducted 
about  the  Palace,  which  they  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  thor- 
oughly. A  visit  was  made  to  the  roof  of  the  Palace  and  from 
there  they  had  a  glorious  view  of  the  city,  which  was  greatly 
admired. 

From  the  Palace  the  guests  dispersed  and  the  remainder  of 
the  day  was  spent  in  sight-seeing  about  the  city. 

The  date  of  the  first  concert  in  Stockholm  was  June  30,  in 
the  Music  Hall  of  Fredrikshof.  The  King  attended,  and  upon 
his  entering  the  hall,  the  singers  rendered  the  National  Air  of 
Sweden.  The  program  was  creditably  rendered,  and  a  great 
audience  was  present.  The  American  songs:  "Suwanee  River," 
"Star  Spangled  Banner,"  and  "America"  seemed  to  especially 
please  the  people  of  the  capital. 

The  day  following  the  American  singers  rendered  a  beautiful 
selection  on  the  "Skansen"  to  an  audience  of  about  6,000  people, 
who  received  Director  Ortengren  and  his  singers  with  vociferous 
applause. 

123 


Later  in  the  evening  a  banquet  was  spread  at  Breidablick. 

About  midnight  ]Mr.  Ferguson,  the  American  minister,  and 
the  American  Consul  were  serenaded. 

On  July  3rd  a  second  concert  was  given  at  Fredrikshof. 

On  Sunday,  July  4th,  the  great  American  Day,  Consul 
Georgii  and  ^lessrs.  Lagerlof.  Kinberg,  Horneij,  Dahlstrom, 
Frohlund,  Svensson.  Forsgren  and  Westman  had  arranged  a 
festive  occasion  at  Hasselbacken  in  honor  of  the  Swedish- Ameri- 
can singers. 


Before  returning  to  America  the  popular  conductor  of  this 
American  Union  of  Swedish  singers  had  a  special  audience  with 
King  Oscar  and  was  received  very  graciously. 

Director  Ortengren  and  his  splendid  and  energetic  singers 
have  added  new  laurels  not  only  to  their  own  fame,  but  also  to 
that  of  Swedish  song  in  general,  by  their  Swedish  tour  this  sum- 
mer. 

Long  live  Director  Ortengren  and  the  American  Union  of 
Swedish  Singers! 


124 


CHAPTER  DC 

The  Great  Exposition. 

Twenty  thousand  Swedish-Americans  have  visited  the  coun- 
try of  their  fathers  this  summer.  The  number  has  been  given  to 
me  by  Mr.  A.  E.  Johnson,  the  king  of  immigration  agents  in 
all  America,  and  also  by  Larson  Brothers,  the  leading  emigra- 
tion firm  of  Stockholm.  Twice  that  number  of  our  people  would 
have  taken  a  vacation  for  a  trip  to  Sweden,  had  not  the  Steamship 
companies  pooled  and  kept  up  prices,  instead  of  making  a  rea- 
sonable exposition  or  holiday  rate  for  all  visitors  to  the  Scandi- 
navian Industrial  Exposition  held  at  Stockholm  from  May  15 
to  Oct.  1st  this  year. 

I  regret  that  pooling  arrangement  very  much  and  for  several 
reasons.  In  the  first  place  every  hard-working  Swede  in  the  United 
States  has  deserved  such  a  vacation  and  would  have  profited 
by  it.  The  average  American  citizen  returns  from  a  European 
tour  with  increased  love  and  affection  for  his  own  country.  Pa- 
triotism does  not  always  grow  best  at  home,  but  increased  pa- 
triotism is  always  a  decided  gain  for  ourselves  as  a  nation.  The 
Swedish-Americans  are  as  a  rule  very  patriotic  American  citi- 
zens, but  a  summer  in  the  old  .country  invariably  adds  to  the 
love  and  enthusiasm  for  their  new  home  and  country'. 

On  the  other  hand  the  Exposition  at  Stockholm  was  well 
worth  a  visit.  It  showed  in  silent,  but  eloquent  language  what 
the  Scandinavian  countries  are  capable  of  doing  along  the  lines 
of  industry  and  art.  It  was  impossible  to  visit  and  study  that 
lovely  exposition  (the  expression  is  judiciously  chosen)  without 
receiving  lasting  impressions,  confirming  one's  faith  in  the  fu- 
ture greatness  and  importance  of  the  already  creditable  and  grow- 
ing intelligence  and  industries  of  the  Scandinavian  countries. 
Yes,  that  is  the  reason  why  I  would  have  had  as  many  as  possible 

125 


of  the  Swedish-Americans  in  Stockhohii  this  summer.  That 
visit  would  have  made  them  yet  fonder  of  the  dear  old  country 
of  their  fathers.  Sweden  is  our  noble,  unapproached  mother; 
America  is  our  lovely,  beautiful  bride;  the  sweetest  of  them  all. 
A  man  who  is  proud  of  his  mother  and  heartily  in  love  with 
his  wife,  is  all  right,  and  can  be  relied  upon,  as  a  general  rule, 
to  do  his  full  duty. 

Thirty-one  years  ago  the  first  great  Scandinavian  Exposi- 
tion was  held  in  Stockholm,  in  the  summer  of  1866.  Two  similar 
expositions  have  since  then  taken  place  in  the  largest  city  of 
Scandinavia,  Copenhagen,  the  proud  capital  of  Denmark.  The 
first  of  these  was  held  in  1872,  the  second  in  1888.  This  makes 
the  exposition  in  Stockholm  this  summer  the  fourth  great  Scand- 
inavian Exposition. 

The  plans  for  this  Exposition  have  been  making  for  manv 
years.  The  beginning  was  attempted  already  in  the  year  1880. 
The  proposition  was  then  seconded  by  twenty-one  of  the  "lans" 
(districts, counties), by  the  Swedish  Sloyd  Association;  by  import- 
ant industrial  associations  in  twenty-nine  cities,  and  by  the  board 
of  the  Iron  Exchange.  Another  attempt  was  made  in  the  fol- 
lowing year.  In  the  year  1885  the  government  presented  a  prop- 
osition, based  upon  these  petitions,  to  the  Swedish  Congress, 
which,  however,  voted  in  the  negative.  In  1889  the  question 
was  again  revived,  and  tliis  time  referred  by  the  government  to 
the  Chamber  of  Commerce,  which  solicited  information  from  all 
interested  parties  resulting  in  a  strong  proposal  by  said  Chamber 
of  Commerce,  in  Sept.,  1890,  to  the  government,  strongly  favor- 
ing the  holding  of  a  Scandinavian  Industrial  and  Art  Exposition 
in  Stockholm. 

The  government  however  remained  undecided. 

On  Dec.  16,  1893,  thirty-one  associations,  and  two  thousand 
seven  hundred  proprietors  of  factories  and  manufactories,  and 
others,  petitioned  the  King,  saying  that  it  was  their  sincere  wish, 
that  the  question  of  said  exposition  should  be  settled  as  soon 
as  possible.  The  petition  also  suggested  the  year  1897  ^^  ^ 
very  suitable  one  for  the  holding  of  the  exposition. 

The  government  now  took  action  granting  the  prayer  of  the 
petitioners.  On  April  27,  1894,  a  commission  was  created  for 
the  development  of  the  necessary  plans,  etc. 

The  Crown  Prince  was  made  the  Chairman  of  the  Commis- 
sion, which  was  divided  into  two  sections,  one  for  Art  and  one 

126 


for  the  Industries.  Prince  Eugene  was  selected  as  Chairman 
of  the  first  sub-division  and  Baron  G.  Tarn  of  the  second. 

On  Nov.  21,  1894,  the  place  for  holding  the  Exposition  was 
finally  decided  upon,  and  June  7,  1895,  the  government  definitely 
resolved  that  the  Exposition  should  become  a  reality,  and  ap- 
pointed the  several  necessary  permanent  Commissions,  with  the 
same  gentlemen  at  the  head  as  mentioned  above. 

Now  followed  the  competition,  by  invitation,  of  the  archi- 
tects. The  prizes  were  conferred  as  follows:  Machine  Hall,  E. 
J.  Thorburn;  Art  Hall,  F.  Boberg;  addition  to  the  Nordiska  Mu- 
seum, A.  Lindegren;  Main  Entrance,  F.  Boberg-.  Messrs.  Bo- 
berg and  Lilljekvist  were  authorized  to  make  plans  for  the  Manu- 
facturers' Building,  or  Industrial  Hall;  the  Art  Hall;  the  Ma- 
chinery Hall  and  Main  Entrance  were  left  to  Mr.  Boberg; 
the  addition  to  the  Nordiska  Museum  to  Mr.  Lindegren;  the 
Fisheries  Hall,  to  Mr.  Thorburn,  and  the  building  for  the  Army 
and  Navy  to  Mr.  Josephson. 

In  the  beginning  of  July,  1895,  the  work  was  actually  begun. 

Norway  has  taken  a  very  active  part  in  the  Exposition. 

The  Norwegian  part  has  been  directed  and  organized  by  a 
special  Commission  with  headquarters  at  Christiania,  and  with 
sub-committees  at  Bergen,  Trondhjem  and  Stavanger.  The 
chairman  is  Consul  General  Chr.  Christoferson;  secretary,  Mr. 
Hj.  Manskow;  general  commissioner,  Mr.  Aug.  C.  Mohr;  sec- 
ond commissioner,  Mr.  E.  C.  Gjestvang. 

Denmark  also  had  its  own  commission  and  committees, 
headed  by  the  Hon.  F.  de  Jonquieres.  The  chairman  of  the 
special  departments  were  appointed  as  follows:  Art,  Prof.  Otto 
Badre;  Industries  and  Manufactories,  Mr.  C.  Michelsen;  Fish- 
eries, Earl  Moltke-Bregentved;  Horticulture,  Mr.  E.  Glasel. 

Russia  and  Finland  have  also  taken  a  splendid  part  in  the 
Exposition.  The  General  Commissioner  is  the  Hon.  member 
of  the  Council  of  State,  Mr.  Paul  Miller;  secretary,  Consul-Sec- 
retary, Mr.  G.  A.  Asp. 

The  original  intention  was  to  make  the  Exposition  purely 
Scandinavian.  This  was  changed  so  as  to  give  Russia  the  same 
rights  (petitioned  for  by  Russia)  in  the  Industrial  Departments 
as  the  Scandinavian  countries,  and  so  as  to  make  the  Art  De- 
partment entirely  International. 

The  grounds  were  also  enlarged  from  the  original  128,000 
square  meters  to  208,000  square  meters,  and  if  the  adjoining 

129 


"Skansen,"  in  so  many  ways  really  a  part  of  the  Exposition,  is 
included,  the  total  area  will  reach  a  little  over  400,000  square 
meters.  I  feel  assured  that  no  exposition  in  the  entire  history 
of  the  world  has  controlled  so  beautiful  and  so  suitable  grounds, 
made  such  already  by  nature  itself. 

The  proposed  cost  of  the  Exposition  is  calculated  to  reach 
only  the  sum  of  4,275,000  kronor,  a  sum  marvelously  small  to 
us  Americans.  We  must  remember,  however,  that  there  are  no 
fat  jobs  at  this  Exposition,  no  one  "to  be  taken  care  of"  in  con- 
nection with  this  great  enterprise,  and  that  labor  and  lumber  are 
both  very  cheap  in  the  country  of  King  Oscar.  Five  million 
kronor  mean  as  much  in  Stockholm  as  $5,000,000  in  Chicago. 
And  yet  one  who  has  seen  this  Exposition  can  hardly  believe  that 
the  cost  is  not  greater.  There  is,  of  course,  one  further  explana- 
tion. Very  many  buildings  were  erected  by  private  corporations 
and  individuals,  without  any  cost  to  the  Exposition  itself. 

I  visited  the  Exposition  for  the  first  time  on  a  beautiful 
morning  when  the  unparalleled  northern  summer  was  at  its 
height.  The  ride  along  the  "Strandvagen"  was  very  charming, 
and  in  a  few  minutes  we  had  reached  the  Main  Entrance.  Once 
inside  the  grounds  I  stopped  in  wonder  and  admiration.  My 
next  feeling  was  akin  to  anger  and  dismay.  Why  had  not  an 
Exposition  so  lovely  on  the  very  face  of  it,  so  charming  at 
first  view  already,  been  more  extensively  advertised?  I  had 
really  received  a  pamphlet  concerning  it  in  Glasgow,  and  seen 
another  pamphlet  of  it  in  a  locked  up  glass-front  book-case 
in  the  Stettiner-Bahnhof  in  Berlin,  but  with  these  exceptions 
our  fortunes,  good  or  bad,  while  traveling  in  other  European 
countries,  had  not  put  us  in  any  connection  whatsoever  with  these 
beautiful  exhibits,  showing  what  Sweden  and  its  neighbors  can 
do.  Among  the  Swedes  of  America  chiefly  through  the  broad- 
minded  and  kind-hearted  cooperation  of  the  Swedish-American 
press  and  the  strong  and  business-like  efforts  of  Mr.  A.  E. 
Johnson,  the  Exposition  had  been  fairly  w'ell  advertised.  But 
it  is  always  so:  Sweden  and  the  Swedes  are  too  modest,  have 
not  a  sufficiency  of  self-consciousness,  and  so  very  often  are 
unable  to  make  free  use  of  their  advantages  and  rights.  Again 
and  again  cases  proving  this  fact  have  come  under  my  observa- 
tion. They  are  by  ver>'  nature  true  noblemen,  and  it  is  distasteful 
to  them  to  be  pushing  their  own  claims.  Don't  be  alarmed, 
dear  reader,  I  know  whereof  I  speak;  and  I  mention  this  fact  not 

130 


as  myself  a  descendant  of  this  splendid  family  among  nations,  but 
as  a  native-born  American  citizen,  a  Pennsylvanian,  trying  to  be 
as  brave  and  pushing  as  the  rest  of  you. 

For  instance,  the  Swedes  in  America  arc  sufficiently  numerous 
to  decide  the  result  at  the  elections  in  many  of  our  states.  As 
a  rule  they  are  Republicans.  For  a  quarter  of  a  century  they 
have  been  true  and  loyal  to  the  great  party  of  their  choice.  Party 
leaders  generally  are  kind  to  them  at  the  beginning  of  every 
important  campaign,  sometimes  give  them  splendid  promises, 
but  frequently  forget  and  ignore  them  as  soon  as  the  election  is 
over  and  the  result  is  assured.  Why?  Because  our  people  are 
good-natured,  easily  reconciled,  and  as  a  rule  modest  and  un- 
assuming. But  the  second  generation  is  grov^ing  up,  and  in  this 
one  thing  at  least  the  sons  are  unlike  their  fathers  and  will  de- 
mand the  recognition  so  well  deserved.  A  change  is  alread_y 
going  on;  in  America  the  Swedes  are  becoming  Americans,  not 
so  polite,  not  so  unassuming,  but  with  more  of  the  "getting- 
there"  quality  in  them  than  their  brothers  in  the  fatherland.  And 
so  of  recent  years  political  promises  to  our  people  are  fulfilled 
in  more  instances  than  before,  although  there  is  room  for  much 
improvement  as  yet.  Experience  is  the  mother  of  wisdom.  Po- 
litical sagacity  begets  success.  It  is  difficult  to  conceive  of  any- 
thing more  foolish  than  being  a  fool.  The  one  who  fully  under- 
stands this  truism,  is  an  American  and  will  eventually  be  suc- 
cessful. 

But  we  are  in  Stockholm;  not  in  the  United  States,  at  an  Ex- 
position, not  at  a  political  convention. 

As  stated  before,  I  was  much  surprised  at  the  picture  before 
me.  The  appointments  all  seemed  to  be  so  excellent,  there 
was  an  air  of  the  aesthetic  present  everywhere.  Nothing  shabby, 
mean  or  out  of  place,  and  yet  very  little  reminding  you  of  the 
exceptional  grandeur  of  the  Chicago  World's  Fair  in  1893.  The 
grounds,  picturesque  and  inviting  by  nature,  were  laid  out  in  a 
charming  manner.  It  all  looked  like  a  mid-summer-day  dream. 
I  stood  almost  motionless  for  quite  awhile,  trying  to  impress 
the  general  contours  in  my  mind  forever.  To  my  right  stood  the 
Nordiska  Museum,  now  chiefly  occupied  by  pedagogical  and 
sloyd  exhibits.  This  building  is  permanent.  Immediately  in 
front  stands  the  immense  Industrial  Hall;  or  manufacturers' 
building,  occupying  an  area  of  15,000  square  meters,  the  cupola 
being  339  feet  high.     This  building  is  the  largest  edifice  in  the 

131 


world,  erected  from  lumber.  To  my  left  stands  the  Administra- 
tion Building  and  immediately  adjoining  we  find  the  pavilion  of 
the  Tourist  and  Sport  Department,  in  which  the  well  known 
Swedish  Tourist  Association  has  a  charming  and  interesting  ex- 
hibit. To  the  right  of  the  Industrial  Hall  stands  the  Build- 
ing of  the  Army  and  Navy,  and  to  its  left  the  Swedish  and  Danish 
Fisheries  Hall,  the  Norwegian  Fisheries  Hall  being  located  fur- 
ther up  on  the  DjurgSrdsbruns-viken,  the  water  bounding  the 
grounds  to  the  left.  Between  the  two  halls  of  the  fisheries  in- 
dustries is  "Gamla  Stockholm,"  (ancient  Stockholm)  located,  a 
novel  part  of  the  Exposition  never  to  be  forgotten.  Further 
to  the  right  and  back  of  the  Industrial  Hall,  near  the  '"Saltsjdn," 
the  water  bounds  the  grounds  on  the  right  hand  side.  We  find 
two  of  the  most  important  buildings,  the  immense  Machinery 
Hall  and  the  Art  Hall,  both  very  attractive  not  to  say  imposing. 
Back  of  all  of  these  buildings,  yes,  of  the  grounds  proper  we  find 
"Hasselbacken,"  a  famous  summer  restaurant  and  amusement 
place;  and  "Skansen,"  the  great  Historical  Park  of  Sweden, 
something  entirely  unique  in  conception  and  execution. 
»  But  we  must  go  back  to  the  Main  Entrance  of  the  Exposi- 
tion. Take  another  look.  Don't  be  in  a  hurry.  You  see  build- 
ings and  pavilions  everywhere.  No  wonder,  there  are  about  one 
hundred  of  them  besides  those  already  mentioned.  Probably 
you  have  imagined  that  the  Exposition  could  be  seen  and  studied 
in  an  afternoon  or  two?  What  a  grand  mistake!  You  will 
return  without  seeing  much  of  it,  if  such  were  your  plans.  I 
trust,  however,  that  you  have  plenty  of  time,  and  then  there 
will  be  a  feeling  of  genuine  satisfaction  on  your  part,  when  you 
say  good-bye  to  the  beautiful  place. 

We  are  at  the  main  entrance  again  of  the  Exposition,  trying 
to  gather  into  one  picture  the  lovely  panorama  before  us.  "How 
do  you  do,  Swensson,"  and  I  am  greeted  by  a  dear  friend  from 
Hartford,  Conn.  He  introduced  another  New  Englander.  Yes, 
so  it  was  the  entire  summer:  friends  from  America  everywhere. 
It  made  us  all  feel  so  near  to  our  home.  I  said  many  a  time, 
"Sweden  is  far  oflf  only  the  first  time  you  visit  it  from  America." 
I  am  glad  of  the  experience.  Let  us  go,  many  of  us,  and  often, 
to  this  charming  summer  paradise. 

But  just  now  we  will  visit  the  Press  Building,  or  the  Bureau 
of  the  Press,  as  they  call  it  here.  This  department  is  located  in 
one  of  the  permanent  buildings,  a  pleasant  two-story  stone  edi- 

132 


fice.  The  management  had  done  everything  for  the  accommoda- 
tion and  assistance  of  the  Press.  There  were  splendid  waiting 
and  reading  rooms,  and  an  excellent  telephone  room,  full  of  in- 
struments for  the  use  of  the  newspaper  men.  The  telephone  sys- 
tem of  Sweden  is  so  complete  and  so  practical,  that  the  bulk  of 
the  news  is  transmitted  in  that  manner.  You  are  at  Stockholm. 
You  represent  a  paper  in,  say  Hernosand,  350  miles  off.  You 
sit  down  in  the  telephone  room,  call  up  your  paper,  and  tell  them 
directly  every  day  all  you  want  to  about  the  Exposition  and  any- 
thing else  that  you  desire  them  to  know.  How  simple,  how 
cheap,  how  practical.  I  trust  the  day  will  come,  when  this  same 
thing  can  be  done  in  our  own  country. 

In  the  reading  room  many  American  papers  were  on  file. 
Several  American  newspaper  men  also  had  their  names  in  the 
Registry,  among  whom  I  may  mention  Mr.  Harwood,  repre- 
senting Harper's  Weekly,  the  Independent,  and  other  large  and 
first  class  American  newspapers. 

Mr.  Tore  Blanche  is  the  chief  of  this  department.  He  is  a 
fine,  cultured,  affable  and  kind-hearted  gentleman,  and  received 
me  very  cordially.  We  had  a  pleasant  visit  together  and  chatted 
chiefly  about  the  Exposition.  I  regretted  the  seeming  lack  of 
a  generous,  widespread  effort  at  advertising  it  in  an  adequate 
manner.  Mr.  Blanche  informed  me  that  more  had  been  done 
than  I  really  had  been  informed  of,  and  that  in  Sweden  the  great 
Fair  was  well  and  thoroughly  known  by  almost  everybody.  This 
I  afterwards  found  to  be  a  fact.  There  was  a  genuine  enthu- 
siasm all  over  the  country  for  the  Exposition.  The  railroads  co- 
operated and  on  certain  days  special  trains  were  run  for  the  ac- 
commodation of  the  public.  The  fares  and  total  cost  were  ab- 
surdly low.  The  round  trip  fare  from  Gothenburg,  including  ad- 
mission, etc.,  to  the  Exposition  for  two  days  (4  kronor)  was 
13  kronor,  or  $3.51.  The  distance  from  Gothenburg  to  Stock- 
holm is  284  English  miles.  The  train  load  was  limited  to  500, 
and  every  ticket  was  sold  many  hours  before  the  train  started. 
It  made  a  neat  sum  for  the  railroad  company  and  was  a  great 
and  appreciated  accommodation  to  the  public.  The  price  of  a 
similar  trip  from  Christiania,  Norway,  to  Stockholm  and  return, 
including  hotels,  meals,  and  two  days  at  the  Exposition,  was 
21  kronor,  or  $5.67.  The  roads  brought  18,000  visitors  in  one 
day  to  Stockholm  by  these  cheap  fares.  I  wish  our  American 
railroads  would  follow  suit.     Just  think  of  it,  how  easily  we 

133 


could  get  up  immense  and  useful  church,  educational  and  musical 
gatherings,  if  the  railroads  would  do  the  fair  and  liberal  thing 
by  us.  It  would  benefit  the  railroads  as  well  as  accommodate  the 
public.  As  it  is,  one  has  to  beg  and  work  for  half-a-year  many  a 
time,  and  fail  anyway,  because  the  railroads  do  not  want  to  be 
bothered  or  take  their  share  of  the  risk.  The  above  Gothenburg 
and  return  rate  was  about  $2.75  for  568  miles.  Just  think  if 
Bethany  College,  for  instance,  could  get  a  $2.00  round  trip  for 
the  annual  Messiah  festival  from  Kansas  City  to  Lindsborg  and 
return,  distance  traveled  only  414  miles,  what  crowds  would 
result.  But  in  America  we  have  our  "associations,  pools,  man- 
agers' agreement,"  and  who  can  name  it  all,  prohibiting,  or  at 
least  affording  an  excuse  for  anything  like  a  general  enterprise 
along  the  lines  indicated.  Oh,  that  we,  proud  Americans,  should 
have  to  go  to  little  Sweden  to  learn  the  lesson  of  cheap  and 
popular  railroading.  "Ah,  but  the  government  owns  and  con- 
trols the  railroads  of  Sweden,"  answers  my  Populist  friend.  Yes, 
a  part  of  them,  but  less  than  one-half  of  the  mileage  of  the 
country;  and  I  was  told,  that  the  government  roads  were  always 
slowest  in  adopting  any  improvements. 

Pardon  the  digression.  In  summer  time  in  Sweden  they 
have  a  peculiarly  sensible  and  liberal  arrangement.  On  some 
roads  a  one  day  ticket  is  always  a  return  ticket  without  extra 
charge.  On  all  roads,  as  far  as  I  could  learn,  a  return  ticket 
good  for  four  days,  I  believe,  could  be  had  at  a  materially  reduced 
price.  This  arrangement  increased  travel  at  a  time  of  the  year 
when  operating  expenses  to  the  roads  were  smaller  than  durin_g 
other  seasons.  The  steamboats  do  the  same  thing.  If  a  one 
way  ticket  is  10  kronor,  the  round  trip  is  15,  good  on  any  boat 
of  the  company  for  the  period  of  one  week.  Not  that  alone. 
If  you  desire  to  make  a  tour  of  the  country,  a  tourist  ticket  may 
be  bought  at  a  greatly  reduced  price,  without  necessitating  the 
return  over  the  same  road  at  all.  Two  of  us  made  a  tour  of 
Dalarne,  visiting  Upsala,  Krylbo,  Leksand,  Mora,  Orsa,  Rattvik, 
Falun,  Gefle,  Elfkarleby,  and  back  to  Stockholm,  the  fare  for 
the  whole  trip  of  five  days  being  only  $5.75.  Many  of  these 
trips  are  planned  by  the  Tourist  Association,  or  by  the  railroads, 
but  anyone  may  plan  a  tour  to  his  own  liking,  and  by  ordering 
his  ticket  one  day  in  advance  get  the  benefit  of  the  low  rate. 
The  only  condition  is  limit  of  time,  30  to  45  days,  I  believe,  and 
the  final  return  to  the  starting  point. 

134 


As  I  said,  Mr.  Blanche  was  a  very  pleasant  gentleman  and 
extended  to  myself  and  wife  the  courtesies  customary  to  press 
representatives,  and  aiding  me  in  many  other  ways,  in  order 
that  I  might  have  as  full  and  complete  a  view  of  the  Exposition 
as  possible. 

To  Mr.  Blanche  is  due  very  much  credit  for  the  success  of 
the  Exposition. 

Do  you  remember  the  fanciful  prices  charged  for  meals  at 
Chicago?  What  an  unusually  brief  existence  a  dollar  had  at 
most  of  the  restaurants  at  our  World's  Fair.  At  Stockholm  one 
may  do  as  he  pleases.  If  he  is  willing  to  pay  for  it,  an  ex- 
pensive meal  awaits  him;  if  he  does  not  care  for  it,  27  cents 
will  provide  a  good  square  meal  for  himself  and  wife. 

They  have  what  is  called  a  "People's  Kitchen."  Prince  Karl 
is  said  to  be  very  much  interested  in  the  success  of  the  enter- 
prise, and  ladies  of  high  rank  aid  not  only  by  their  influence 
but  also  by  taking  part  in  the  real  work.  The  "People's  Kitchen" 
does  not  belong  only  to  the  Exposition  but  is  a  permanent  Stock- 
holm arrangement. 

Shall  we  try  it?  Yes,  we  must  take  our  turn.  There  is 
always  a  great  crowd  waiting.  You  see  the  prices  posted  in 
large  letters.  Soup,  meat  and  vegetables  40  ore;  "iskallardricka," 
10  ore.  The  "iskallardricka"  is  a  very  weak,  pure  beer,  generally 
considered  a  good  and  harmless  drink.  You  pay  and  get  your 
checks  at  the  entrance,  go  into  the  immense  dining  hall,  find  a 
neat  table,  among  the  hundreds  placed  there,  go  to  the  great  invit- 
ing counters,  present  your  checks,  get  your  well-cooked  courses 
of  soup  and  meat  and  vegetables  and  your  glass  of  "dricka," 
sit  down  at  the  clean  table,  feel  greatly  satisfied,  finish  your  meal 
of  13^  cents,  and  give  your  place  to  another.  The  experiment 
has  proven  a  most  wonderful  success.  Even  King  Oscar  has 
visited  this  "People's  Kitchen"  and  partaken  of  the  food  pre- 
pared for  the  multitudes. 

My  total  impression  of  the  Exposition  is,  that  the  manage- 
ment has  sincerely  tried  to  make  it  as  good  and  as  cheap  in 
money  as  possible  throughout.  It  is  an  Exposition  first  and 
last  for  the  Swedish  people  at  large.  It  will  make  Sweden  feel 
her  own  strength  and  resources  as  never  before.  The  bringing  of 
the  masses  from  every  point  of  the  kingdom  to  see  the  exhibits, 
is  a  most  capital  idea.  Let  Omaha  and  the  Mississippi  Valley 
in  'q8  profit  by  the  example  of  Stockholm  in  '97. 

135 


One  afternoon  four  of  us  proceeded  to  the  Opera  Restaurant, 
principally  to  see  the  paintings  and  decorations,  concerning  which 
Dr.  Waldenstrom  made  so  much  ado  some  time  ago.  As  we 
entered  our  eyes  wandered  around  the  walls  and  ceilings,  expect- 
ing to  see  what  had  raised  the  ire  of  the  great  and  famous  preach- 
er-politician. I  am  glad  to  say  that  we  were  disappointed.  In 
Europe  one  beholds  more  of  such  pictures  almost  everywhere  in 
public  places  than  here.  But  thereby  hangs  a  tale.  The  people 
say,  that  the  grass  and  shrubbery  have  grown  wonderfully  since 
the  attack  of  Dr.  W.  upon  these  decorations.  That  may  be 
the  case.  Honest,  upright  Sweden  is  no  stranger  to  the  tricks  of 
policy  and  stratagem. 

Without  offering  an  opinion  on  this  mooted  question,  allow 
me  to  say  that  our  visit  was  well  repaid  not  only  by  the  excellent 
cuisine  of  the  place,  but  yet  more  by  our  unexpected  meeting 
with  probably  the  best  known  Swedish-American  now  living, 
the  popular  land  and  immigration  agent  Mr.  A.  E.  Johnson, 
Knight  of  the  Royal  Vasa  Order  and  chief  owner  of  the  influ- 
ential Chicago  weekly,  the  "Hemlandet,"  the  oldest  Swedish 
newspaper  in  America. 

Mr.  Johnson,  who  was  accompanied  by  his  estimable  wife, 
invited  us  all  to  coffee  on  the  spacious  veranda.  In  Sweden 
you  eat  in  one  room  or  place,  and  sip  your  cofifee  and  smoke  your 
cigar,  simultaneously,  somewhere  else.  It  is  a  very  pleasant 
custom,  but  takes  more  time  than  we  busy  Americans  care  to 
give  to  a  meal. 

Our  conversation  was  most  interesting,  as  Mr.  Johnson  had 
recently  arrived  and  brought  the  latest  news  from  our  own  coun- 
try, and  still  more  because  Mr.  J.  is  always  an  interesting  con- 
versationalist. 

Mr.  Johnson  frequently  visits  Sweden.  He  has  never  forgot- 
ten the  country  of  his  fathers.  The  former  Vermland  boy  has 
experienced  splendid  luck  and  secured  an  enviable  standing  in 
America,  but  cherishes  continually  the  warmest  feelings  in  his 
generous  heart  for  the  far-away  land  in  the  north.  His  Ameri- 
can wife  fully  shares  these  sentiments  with  her  husband.  From 
him  I  learned  that  the  splendid  steamer  "America"  had  made  a 
successful  and  profitable  round-trip  to  the  United  States  directly 
from  Scandinavian  ports  and  that  she  would  make  two  more 
similar  round-trips  this  season.  I  saw  this  steamer  at  Copen- 
hagen.    She  is  a  noble,  splendid  ship,  and  I  congratulate  those 

136 


who  get  the  opportunity  of  travehng  directly  to  Scandinavia  with 
such  a  fine  steamer. 

The  next  afternoon  Mr.  Johnson,  Mr.  Harwood  of  Harper's 
Weekly,  the  Independent,  and  the  Minneapolis  Evening  Journal, 
and  myself  were  invited  to  dine  at  the  renowned  restaurant,  Has- 
selbacken.  Our  host  was  Mr.  Tore  Blanche,  the  president  of 
the  Exposition  Press  Bureau.  I  need  not  state  that  I  accepted 
the  invitation  with  much  pleasure. 

Before  the  dinner  hour  we  met  and  were  introduced  to  some 
of  the  leading  officials  of  the  Exposition,  chief  among  whom  was 
Mr.  A.  Thiel,  the  general  manager,  who  is  a  most  affable  and 
pleasant  gentleman,  full  of  push  and  energy.  Afterwards  we 
walked  towards  the  Hasselbacken  in  company  with  Mr.  Blanche 
and  saw  many  things  of  interest,  details  here  and  there,  charming 
in  themselves  but  easily  passed  over  by  a  stranger,  until  pointed 
out  by  one  who  is  perfectly  familiar  with  everything. 

Hasselbacken  is  the  most  popular  and  best  known  restaurant 
in  all  Sweden.  It  is  beautifully  located  in  the  woods  on  the 
slope  of  a  hill,  and  with  a  whole  galaxy  of  dining  rooms,  verandas, 
and  shaded  places  in  the  park.  From  a  beautiful  stand  exquisite 
music  is  continually  rendered.  It  is  truly  an  ideal  spot  for  a 
dinner,  and  Mr.  Blanche  had  soon  found  an  admirable  place 
for  our  little  party. 

Mr.  Blanche,  our  host,  understands  and  speaks  our  language 
quite  well  and  the  conversation  flowed  freely  ere  long.  Mr.  Har- 
wood is  a  typical  American  newspaper  man  of  the  better  kind, 
industrious,  hardworking,  intelligent,  strictly  temperate  and  inde- 
fatigable. 

At  first  we  naturally  enough  spoke  of  the  Exposition.  Mr. 
Harwood  was  more  than  pleased  with  it,  and  so  were  the  rest  of 
us.  Harper's  Weekly  intended  to  publish  only  half  a  page  of  illus- 
trations, but  on  receiving  Mr.  Harwood's  report  changed  it  to 
two  full  pages  and  the  reading  matter  besides,  ordering  two 
more  articles  of  the  same  kind  at  the  same  time.  Mr.  Harwood 
was  pleased  not  only  with  the  Exposition,  but  with  all  of  Sweden, 
just  like  the  rest  of  us  Americans. 

After  a  while  our  conversation  entered  a  wider  channel.  Mr. 
Harwood  criticised  some  conditions  obtaining  in  Sweden  in  a 
mild  manner,  and  Mr.  Blanche  spoke  of  America.  Mr.  Johnson 
and  myself,  claiming  to  know  a  little  about  both  countries,  list- 
ened for  a  while,  but  finally  joined  in  the  exchange  of  views 

141 


in  that  unreserved  mood  which  the  occasion  seemed  to 
justify. 

Mr.  Harwood  seemed  to  think  that  the  people  of  Sweden 
frequented  the  restaurants,  parks  and  eating  and  drinking  places 
too  much.  He  did  not  refer  to  the  present  occasion  as  Mr. 
Blanche  ordered  nothing  stronger  than  a  mild  claret,  which 
those  of  us  who  so  desired  mixed  with  ice  water.  The  criticism 
was  a  general  one.  "You  don't  live  in  your  homes  at  all  during 
the  summer,  and  that  can  hardly  be  the  correct  thing,"  said  the 
American  newspaper  man.  ''Your  life  is  too  expensive,  and  it 
is  full  of  dangers."  Mr.  Blanche  said  it  was  now  summer  and 
that  many  cares  of  homelife  and  housekeeping  were  lessened  by 
the  custom  referred  to.  Mr.  Johnson  wished  Mr.  Harwood  to 
remember,  that  Stockholm  was  not  quite  identical  with  Sweden, 
nor  its  citizens  with  the  Swedish  people  in  general.  In  the  end 
Mr.  Blanche  and  all  of  us  accepted  Mr.  Harwood's  criticism, 
which  is  certainly  well  founded  and  justified.  A  tourist  noticing 
the  immense  crow^ds  assembling  every  beautiful  summer  night 
from  8  o'clock  until  midnight,  or  later,  at  the  various  summer 
restaurants  and  pleasure  resorts  in  lovely  parks,  illuminated  and 
full  of  the  very  best  of  music  must  of  necessity  ask  himself  the 
question:  Where  do  they  get  all  the  money  for  this,  and  is  this 
kind  of  a  life  conducive  to  good  public  morals? 

Large  quantities  of  beer,  punch,  mineral  waters,  etc.,  are  con- 
sumed at  such  places  every  night,  but  good  order  is  always  pre- 
served. They  are  frequented  by  the  "better  classes"  as  they  say 
over  there.  When  I  read  Mr.  Wellman's  letters  a  few  weeks 
ago  in  a  Chicago  paper,  saying  that  the  river  was  covered  with 
corks,  I  smiled  to  myself.  Mr.  Wellman  must  have  imagined 
that  he  was  writing  a  political  speech  in  penning  those  lines. 
First  of  all,  the  cork  story  is  a  "fish  story."  Secondly,  the  places 
referred  to,  with  one  or  two  exceptions,  are  not  located  by  the 
river  at  all.  For  our  sake  and  his  own,  I  am  glad  that  the 
noted  newspaper  correspondent  wrote  in  English;  if  he  had 
written  in  Swedish,  his  own  dear  self  would  soon  be  seen  in 
the  "Panoptikon"  as  the  greatest  prevaricator  that  ever  visited 
the  fair  capital  of  Sweden. 

Mr.  Harwood  was  not  satisfied  with  the  daily  press  in  Sweden. 
In  his  opinion  someone  would  come  to  Stockholm  one  of  these 
days  and  make  his  fortune  by  publishing  a  modern  daily  upon 
the  American  plan.     Such  a  paper  would  have  all  the  news, 

142 


written  up  in  the  newspaper  language  of  to-day,  and  distributed 
to  the  pubHc  while  yet  fresh.  Now  I  listened  with  even  greater 
interest  than  before.  The  new  world  wished  to  teach  the  old 
world;  the  old  world  listened  with  incredulity. 

With  the  exception  of  the  miserable  mail  and  railroad  ar- 
rangements for  the  daily  papers,  putting  the  Stockholm  dailies, 
for  example,  into  Hernosand  the  second  day  after  publication, 
I  found  little  to  criticise  in  the  newspapers  of  to-day  in  Sweden. 
The  press  in  King  Oscar's  land  has  advanced  wonderfully  in 
seven  years.  The  news  are  very  naturally  sometimes  quite 
scarce  as  compared  with  our  own  supply,  but  the  sources  and 
territory  are  much  more  limited  than  in  our  country.  We  say, 
the  Swedes  are  slow,  and  we  see  some  of  their  phlegma  in  their 
newspaper  work,  I  admit,  but  they  are  waking  up  and  are  already 
imitating  some  of  the  "Enterprise"  of  many  of  our  American 
newspaper  reporters.  I  refer  to  the  unreliability  of  some  of  their 
statements.  jNIany  a  time  did  I  smile  at  this  fact,  as  new  cases 
were  constantly  developed.  Some  of  this  experience  is  personal. 
In  a  few  days  the  Swedish  papers  made  me  president  of  four 
different  colleges.  The  American  reporter  never  served  me 
more  generously. 

With  these  exceptions  Mr.  Harwood  was  full  of  praises  for 
the  Swedes  both  of  the  Fatherland  and  of  America.  He  knew 
them  well  in  this  country.  His  commendations  were  fair  and 
sincere.  By  this  turn  in  the  conversation  we  entered  at  once 
upon  the  discussion  of  the  very  natural  question:  "What  kind 
of  people  are  the  Swedes  in  America  in  general,  what  are  thej 
doing,  what  is  their  reputation?" 

Mr.  Blanche  believed  that  they  were  generally  workingmen 
and  common  day  laborers,  with  a  good  mechanic  and  business 
man  thrown  in  here  and  there.  Many  Americans  believe  just 
exactly  the  same  thing.  They  take  the  Swedes  to  be  a  nation 
of  servant  girls,  coachmen  and  hired  hands.  As  far  as  Mr.  Blanche 
is  concerned,  I  was  not  much  astonished  by  his  mistake.  Why?i 
Because  the  large  majority  of  the  Swedes  that  emigrated  froni 
the  Fatherland  belonged  to  the  laboring  classes.  They  came" 
here  to  better  their  economic  conditions,  and  they  came  without 
pride  and  presumption.  They  were  willing  to  do  any  kind  of 
work,  until  something  better  offered.  In  later  years  many  edu- 
cated Swedes  have  arrived  on  our  shores  and  are  doing  well, 
as  a  general  rule,  notwithstanding  the  fact  that  some  of  them 

143 


suffered  greatly  with  the  usual  European  "big-head"  during  the 
first  year  with  us. 

Mr.  Blanche  could  hardly  be  expected  to  know  how  things 
had  changed,  since  these  poor  and  moneyless  Swedes  had  come 
to  our  own  great  and  wealthy  America.  I  became  excited,  my 
heart  beat  faster.  I  told  our  kindhearted  host,  that  with  us  all 
honest  toil  was  honorable.  The  boys  and  girls  from  the  far-away 
North  had  worked  hard,  saved  their  earnings,  and  built  up  a 
splendid  reputation  for  industry  and  thrift.  Now  thousands  of 
them  are  independent.  Many  own  the  farms  and  business  of 
those  that  employed  them  some  years  ago.  But  that  was  not 
all.  These  Swedes  although  originally  belonging  to  what  they 
please  to  call  "the  laboring  classes"  over  there,  had  by  their 
contact  with  American  life  become  polished  and  refined,  the 
peers  of  anyone,  and  their  native  intelligence  and  nobility  now 
developed  and  trained,  had  already  given  them  a  proud  place 
among  their  fellow-citizens  in  the  broad  and  happy  domain  of 
Uncle  Sam.  When  God  made  the  Swedes,  He  used  no  wood- 
work in  the  upper  story,  and  so  to-day  they  are  found,  in  dozens 
of  places,  the  foremost  promoters  of  everything  good,  noble  and 
elevating. 

Yes,  even  after  a  summer  in  Sweden  I  am  greatly  impressed 
with  the  proud  thought:  What  a  splendid,  polished  and  refined 
people  the  Swedes  of  America  are  as  a  class!  They  are  better 
than  their  brethren  over  there.  This  is  my  decided  conviction. 
I  speak  of  the  Swedes  as  a  whole,  of  course.  There  are  excep- 
tions everywhere.  This  must  be  freely  admitted.  There  are 
occasionally  rotten  eggs  in  every  barnyard,  even  the  best. 

Well,  I  could  not  but  think  of  the  thousands  of  bright  and 
happy  homes,  owned  by  the  Swedes  of  America,  of  their  good 
furniture  and  splendid  furnishings  in  general,  of  their  pianos, 
organs  and  libraries,  the  newspapers  and  magazines  which  crowd 
the  post-office  in  their  midst,  and  the  splendid  education  which 
they  provide  for  their  children. 

Pardon  me,  I  must  confess  that  I  felt  greatly  moved  with 
pleasant  and  proud  emotions  as  I  contemplated  our  grand  and 
faithful  Swedish  people  in  America. 

Any  dark  shadows  on  the  beautiful  picture?  Yes,  I  cannot 
deny  it.  Let  me  mention  one.  In  some  places  the  Swedes 
of  America  are  copying  the  worldly,  high-toned  gentlemen  of 
Sweden  in  desecrating  the  Lord's  Day  by  worldly  pleasure  and 

144 


by  excessive  drinking  at  some  of  their  banquets.  Let  it  l)e 
stopped.     That  play  is  a  dangerous  one  and  ends  in  a  tragedy. 

We  told  Mr.  Blanche  that  the  Swedes  in  America  were  now 
found  in  almost  every  walk  of  life.  They  hold  many  important 
offices  of  trust  and  honor  in  states,  counties,  cities  and  towns; 
they  are  bankers,  merchants,  lawyers,  professors,  doctors,  archi- 
tects, civil-engineers,  photographers,  and  the  very  best  of  me- 
chanics. Thousands  and  tens  of  thousands  arc  independent  farm- 
ers in  many  of  our  best  sections  of  agricultural  lands,  and  their 
farm  houses  are  in  many  instances  veritable  mansions. 

Many  as  yet  work  for  others,  but  they  plod  on  hopefully  in 
anticipation  of  one  day  being  "their  own."  A  home  of  his  own, 
if  not  a  business  of  his  own,  that  is  the  ambition  of  every  Swede 
in  America. 

We  told  Mr.  Blanche  how  the  Swedes  in  the  United  States 
build  churches  and  colleges,  how  they  support  a  splendid  news- 
paper press  of  their  own,  how  they  interest  themselves  in  music, 
singing,  the  fine  arts — and  I  had  only  to  point  across  the  table 
to  Mr.  A.  E.  Johnson,  who  owns  a  valuable  collection  of  his 
own,  constantly  on  the  increase,  as  a  living  example  of  the 
truthfulness  of  my  statement.  Right  in  little  Lindsborg  there 
are  Swedish  homes  with  much  valuable  canvas  on  the  walls  in 
the  drawing  rooms  and  parlors,  painted  by  artists  of  good  repu- 
tation. 

Then  comes  the  religious  and  church  work  of  our  people. 
The  Swedish  Lutherans,  the  Augustana  Synod,  alone  have  847 
churches,  110,430  communing  members  and  a  total  membership 
of  187,314,  660  church  edifices  and  288  parsonages,  worth  $3,- 
977,597,  and  their  annual  contributions  amount  to  $807,010.54. 
The  Swedish  Lutherans  own  five  educational  institutions,  six 
orphanages,  one  Deaconess  Institute,  three  hospitals.  The 
Methodists,  Baptists,  Mission  Friends  add  greatly  to  these  num- 
bers and  sums.  The  whole  constitutes  a  chapter  so  noble,  so 
encouraging,  as  to  call  forth  sincere  gratitude  to  God  who  in 
His  infinite  w'isdom  gave  these  sturdy  sons  and  daughters  new 
and  happy  homes  in  this  wide,  resourceful  country  of  ours,  and 
in  turn  gave  them  to  us  Americans,  to  constitute  one  of  the 
best  integral  parts  of  our  great  nation. 

Finally,  we  unitedly  invited  Mr.  Blanche  to  visit  us  in  America 
and  become  more  intimately  acquainted  with  our  extensive  ter- 
ritory, our  vast  resources,  and  our  youthful,  energetic  civiliza- 

145 


tion-  yes  the  happy  homes  of  two  million  Swedish- Americans. 
We  Americans  have  much  to  learn  from  a  visit  to  this  far-away 
Northland,  and  our  Swedish  friends  would  certainly  pass  through 
a  similar  experience  by  a  closer  acquaintance  with  our  country. 
The  afternoon  was  pleasantly  spent,  indeed.  It  was  now  6:30 
o'clock,  and  with  many  thanks  we  said  gooy-bye  to  our  host, 
Mr.  Blanche. 


146 


CHAPTER  X. 

The  Opening  Day  and  "Gamla  Stockholm." 

Now  I  must  tell  you  something  of  the  opening  of  the  Ex- 
position on  May  15th.  It  was  a  gala  day  in  Stockholm.  Large 
groups  of  visitors  could  be  seen  everywhere.  A  feeling  of  re- 
joicing and  satisfaction  pervaded  the  multitude.  No  wonder, 
the  Exposition  was  a  success  from  its  first  day. 

It  was  an  impressive  sight  when  the  popular  monarch, 
crowned  with  silver  hair,  with  the  elasticity  and  strength  of  a 
young  man,  spoke  to  the  great  audience  in  a  clear,  penetrating, 
far-reaching  voice.     His  Majesty  said: — 

"While  war  in  the  southeast  corner  of  our  continent  is  drag- 
ging its  bloody  mantle  across  the  classic  ground,  which,  crowned 
by  the  silver  diadem  of  lofty  Olynrpus  since  thousands  of  years, 
is  spread  out  between  the  minarets  around  the  cupola  of  the 
temple  of  Sophia  by  the  shores  of  the  Bosphorus  and  the  Acro- 
polis mountains,  with  their  glorious  colonnades  and  peristyles 
by  the  Aegean  sea,  preparations  are  going  on  for  quite  a  different 
contest  in  Ultima  Thule,  the  ancient  Saga-land,  hardly  yet  known 
even  by  its  name  in  old  Hellas. 

Volunteers  have  really  also  here  forced  themselves  across 
our  boundaries,  but  they  did  not  rush  on  with  the  torches  of 
hate  in  their  hands,  no,  they  approached  with  outstretched  arms 
for  a  friendly  shaking  of  hands,  and  here  to-day,  the  Sophia-day, 
the  battle  is  to  be  fought  under  the  bright  cupola  of  the  northern 
sky  in  springtime. 

It  is  to  be  inaugurated  and  its  beginning  is  to  be  proclaimed 
by  high-sounding  trumpets  and  the  festive  roar  of  the  cannon. 

But  it  is  to  be  a  battle  which  will  not  demand  blood  nor  cost 
any  wounded. 

Here,  where  Sveas  and  Goths  assembled,  were  reconciled 

147 


and  united;  here,  where  the  much-praised  Miilaren  whose  wide- 
comprising  bed  Gifion,  according  to  the  legend,  cut  through  to 
the  waters  of  the  Eystra-SaU  has  found  its  headquarters;  where 
afterwards  the  wide-reputed  and  noble-minded  governor  and  jarl 
founded  the  capital  city  of  Sweden,  he  who  became  the  first 
patron  in  the  North  of  not  only  the  sanctity  of  the  church,  of 
woman,  and  of  the  home,  but  also  of  the  thing  (court,  assembly); 
here  history  itself  has  pointed  out  a  suitable  place  for  the  great, 
peaceful  "allsharjarting"  which  is  to  assemble;  here  the  Swedish 
people  have  made  an  appointment  to  meet  their  brethren  on  the 
Scandinavian  peninsula  west  of  the  mountains,  their  friends  on 
the  shores  of  the  sound  and  the  Belts,  and  their  neighbors  on  the 
other  side  of  the  Baltic,  by  the  banks  of  the  Neva  and  Aura, 
in  a  peaceful  contest  upon  the  industry-field  of  labor. 

What  stands  before  our  eyes,  let  it  speak  for  itself!  At  this 
hour  it  is  not  my  aim  to  judge  of  the  comparative  worth  of  the 
objects  exhibited  or  to  interpret  or  weigh  their  merits — this  de- 
cision is  and  must  be  reserved  for  the  knowledge  of  those  who 
are  professionals  and  experts,  to  be  rendered  only  after  mature 
and  serious  consideration. 

Because  only  in  that  manner  can  we  gain  the  assurance,  that 
no  clouds  of  selfishness,  vanity  or  envy  will  whirl  about  to 
darken  the  rays  of  truth  and  benevolence  as  they  fall  upon  the 
scales  of  Justice. 

Upon  this  festive  occasion  I  only  desire  to  express  to  all  and 
each  one  my  warm  and  heart-felt  welcome,  as  I  now  declare 
the  Art  and  Industrial  Exposition  of  1897  opened." 

Then  the  trumpets  sounded  gayly  and  the  cannon  roared,  and 
the  battle  was  on. 

I  regret  my  inability  to  present  to  the  reader  a  translation 
of  the  grand  Festival-Cantata  by  the  noted  poet,  Snoilsky. 

"Gamla  Stockholm"  means  simply  ancient  or  old  Stockholm. 
It  is  a  restitution  of  what  has  been  long,  long  ago,  or  Stock- 
holm during  the  time  of  the  Vasas.  The  work  was  well  done, 
and  Gamla  Stockholm  proved  to  be  the  most  popular  adjunct  of 
the  entire  Exposition. 

Of  course  we  visited  it.  One  felt  so  queer  all  at  once.  It 
was  like  coming  into  a  new  world,  that  was  very,  very  old  at 
the  same  time.  The  people  in  charge  looked  like  the  pictures 
one  sees  in  books.  The  signs  were  lettered  in  old  characters  and 
old  language.     I  enjoyed  these  signs  very  much  and  regret  ex- 

148 


ceedingly  that  they  were  not  all  copied  in  my  book  of  notes. 
Over  the  tavern  of  St.  Gertrude  one  read: — 

"Go  in,  dearly  beloved  friend,  and  for  a  small  penny  thou 
shalt  enjoy  the  sweetness  of  life  very  lively." 

I  believe  "the  dearly  beloved  friend"  did  enjoy  a  very  lively 
existence  at  popular  St.  Gertrude's. 

We  walked  about  on  the  quaint,  crooked,  narrow  streets, 
climbed  up  some  queer  steps,  sat  down  in  a  much  stranger  porch 
and  had  excellent  waffles  and  coffee.  We  resumed  our  prom- 
enade, saw  the  palace,  the  church,  the  court  house,  and  the  place 
from  which  Christian  II.,  the  tyrant,  witnessed  the  Stockholm 
massacre  of  November  1520,  when  82  distinguished  Swedes  were 
beheaded  in  one  day. 

In  the  basement  of  the  court  house  was  a  famous  restaurant, 
"Ridhuskallaren."  We  took  a  meal  there  and  felt  highly  pleased 
with  the  visit.  The  mottoes  on  the  wall  surely  belonged  to  the 
past.  Here  is  one:  "Happy  is  the  perch;  he  may  drink  when- 
ever he  wishes  to."  Here  is  one  more:  "Good  drink  is  food 
at  the  same  time." 

One  evening  we  visited  Gamla  Stockholm  to  see  it  in  the 
twilight,  because  there  is  no  night  at  all  at  Stockholm  in  sum- 
mer-time. We  found  it  crowded  with  visitors.  On  the  open 
square  in  front  of  the  court-house  were  arranged  sports,  plays 
and  even  fights,  all  in  accordance  with  the  good  times  of  yore. 

There  were  also  ancient  play-houses  and  theaters.  We  en- 
tered one  to  see  some  more  pictures  from  the  times  of  the  Vasas, 
but  were  entirely  disappointed,  and  soon  left  the  place.  It 
seemed  to  be  simply  a  money-making  scheme,  and  had  no  busi- 
ness in  Gamla  Stockholm  whatsoever. 

Well,  I  could  of  course  tell  you  the  names  of  the  streets  and 
buildings  and  squares,  but  the  average  reader  cares  little  for  it, 
and  so  we  will  say  good-bye  to  this  very  interesting  corner  in 
order  to  pay  a  visit  to  the  large  Industrial  Hall, 


151 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Industrial  Hall  and  Machinery  Hall. 

The  main  building  of  the  Exposition  is  the  Industrial  Hall. 
It  was  well  worth  a  prolonged  visit. 

On  entering  the  cupola  part  of  the  building  one  saw  first  the 
exhibit  of  gold  and  silver-ware,  then  exhibits  of  articles  made 
of  glass,  then  the  varied  and  great  exhibits  of  Eskilstuna,  then 
the  telephone  exhibit,  then  the  porcelain  and  crockery,  and  finally 
the  exhibits  of  clocks  and  watches. 

In  the  tower  to  the  left  were  seen  exhibits  of  stoves,  heating 
apparatus,  wire,  glazed  utensils,  glass-ware,  a  distilling  apparatus 
in  operation,  etc. 

In  the  tower  to  the  right  one  saw  exhibits  of  specimens  of 
ore,  iron,  articles  made  of  other  metals,  art-casting,  and  punch 
and  wines. 

In  the  gallery  to  the  left  were  found  the  exhibits  of  tin-ware 
and  arms. 

In  the  gallery  to  the  right  one  saw  the  exhibits  of  tools  and 
toys. 

In  the  gallery  further  to  the  left  were  the  exhibits  of  lamps 
and  other  lighting  apparatus  and  of  all  kinds  and  sizes  of  baskets. 

In  the  gallery  further  to  the  right  could  be  seen  the  exhibits  of 
grain,  flour,  milk,  eggs  and  of  the  bakers  and  bee-raisers. 

Now  we  are  in  the  hall  proper.  In  the  center  we  find  the 
exhibits  of  machinery  in  operation,  of  pins  and  the  like. 

To  the  left  one  sees  the  exhibits  of  muslins,  woolens,  yarns, 
musical  instruments,  confectionery,  preserves,  fruits,  spices,  etc. 

To  the  right  are  the  exhibits  of  tobacco,  bookbinding,  linen 
goods,  Jute-goods  and  hemp-goods;  also  furniture,  wall  paper 
and  decorations. 

152 


In  the  rear  were  the  exhibits  of  clothing,  and  nearest  to  the 
wall  the  exhibits  of  carpets,  etc. 

The  rear  gallery  was  occupied  chiefly  by  clothing,  furniture, 
iron  beds,  and  organs. 

The  Norwegian  Department 
had  its  place  in  the  right  part  of  the  hall.     It  was  a  fine  and 
worthy  exhibit. 

In  the  center  were  the  exhibits  of  the  stone-industry,  art- 
productions  and  paper,  etc.  On  both  sides  were  exhibits  of  furs. 
Further  in  were  the  minerals  and  next  to  the  wall  the  sport 
exhibit. 

To  the  right  were  the  textile  exhibits,  and  to  the  left  the 
furniture  exhibits.  Back  of  the  mineral-industry  and  in  an  ad- 
junct was  the  chemical  exhibit. 

The  Gallery. 
First  comes  the  tourist-exhibit.  Back  of  it  is  the  grand  pres- 
entation of  the  topography  and  sceneries  of  Norway,  wdth  the 
Cathedral  of  Trondhjem  to  the  right.  This  was  all  very  inter- 
esting and  provoked  much  favorable  comment.  To  the  left  was 
an  exhibit  of  home-sloyd. 

On  the  left  gallery  we  found  the  exhibits  of  Women's  sloyd, 
more  home-sloyd,  and  the  like. 

On  the  right  gallery  were  the  exhibits  of  the  schools,  etc. 

The  Danish  Department. 
In  the  left  part  of  the  great  hall  were  the  Danish  exhibits. 
The  visitor  enters  through  two  towers  or  minarets. 
The  central  part  nearest  to  the  entrance  contained  the  lovely- 
exhibits  of  porcelain,  terra-cotta  and  ceramics.      Back  of  this 
were  the  exhibits  of  gold  and  silver- ware  and  jewelry.     In  a  spe- 
cial room   were   seen  the  gifts  to  the   golden   wedding  of   the 
Danish  King  and  Queen,  and  the  gifts  to  the  silver  wedding  of 
the  Crown  Prince  and  the  Crown  Princess.     In  the  central  part 
were  also  found  the  exhibits  of  mineral  product,  the  iron  in- 
dustry, brick,   stone,  woolens,   silks,  furniture,  and  exhibits   of 
telegraphic  instruments. 

To  the  right  were  seen  musical  instruments  of  many  kinds, 
specimens  of  the  skill  of  the  Danish  cabinet-makers,  beers  and 
other  malt  preparations,  liquors,  tobacco  and  a  special  room 
containing  the  exhibits  of  the  Danish  tanneries. 

To  the  left  were  the  exhibits  of  light-house  appliances,  and  of 
tin  and  copper-ware.     Also  of  saddlery,  paper-hanging  and  deco- 

153 


rative  art,  the  paper  industry,  and  photography.     In  the  corner 
v/ere  found  exhibits  of  everything  pertaining  to  book-making. 

In  the  central  part  of  the  gallery  were  exhibits  of  drawings 
and  models  from  several  Copenhagen  institutions.  In  the  cor- 
ners were  exhibits  of  drawings  belonging  to  the  building — and 
other  mechanical  trades. 

To  the  left  were  the  exhibits  of  female  sloyd  and  other  work 
by  women.    Also  exhibits  of  educational  appliances  and  the  like. 

To  the  right  were  exhibits  from  the  Institutions  for  the  Blind 
and  Deaf,  also  of  statistics,  geography  and  other  maps,  etc. 
The  Russian-Finnish  Department. 

These  exhibits  had  their  place  in  an  addition  to  the  great 
hall  towards  the  Djurgirdsbrunnsviken.  There  were  two  en- 
trances from  the  Danish.  The  main  entrance  is  directly  from 
the  grounds. 

This  entrance  is  in  the  Russian  fashion  of  the  17th  century, 
with  Oriental  and  Bysantine  mottoes.  At  first  you  see  a  colossal 
exhibit  of  flour,  representing  the  chief  industry  of  Russia,  agri- 
culture. This  flour  was  baked  according  to  the  Russian  method 
in  the  Danish  steam  bakery,  by  Russian  bakers.  The  product 
was  distributed  or  sold  among  the  visitors  at  this  entrance. 

The  central  part  had  a  bust  of  the  Emperor.  Back  of  it 
was  a  fine  exhibit  of  gold  and  silver-ware  in  old  Russian  styles, 
and  the  almost  wonderful  exhibit  of  furs.  Next  was  the  exhibit 
from  the  Imperial  Cabinet  of  porcelains  and  polished  stones  and 
stone-ware,  some  being  the  personal  property  of  the  Emperor. 
Further  towards  the  Danish  Department  were  exhibits  of  ropes, 
arms,  shoes,  traveling-bags  and  trunks. 

To  the  left  were  the  exhibits  of  furniture,  paper-hangings  and 
other  decorations,  brocades,  the  imperial  banner,  a  sample  of 
the  imperial  mantle  used  at  the  coronation,  etc.,  silk  goods, 
muslins,  sloyd;  an  exhibit  from  the  Department  of  Agriculture 
and  domains,  whatever  the  last  may  mean. 

Here  is  also  the  Finnish  Department,  containing  exhibits  of 
leather  goods,  photography,  specimens  from  many  kinds  of 
schools,  musical  instruments,  etc. 

To  the  right  were  the  exhibits  of  pianos,  photographs,  educa- 
tional material,  especially  for  manual  training  and  the  like;  also 
of  Asiatic  goods,  as  carpets,  rugs,  embroideries,  silver-ware; 
chemicals;  and  the  exhibit  of  the  great  firm  of  Nobel  Brothers. 

The  Russian  Department    also    contained    exhibits    of  tea, 

154 


sugar,  wines,  brandies,  beers,  cigarettes,  preserves,  optical  instru- 
ments, etc. 

The  Machinery  Hall  was  a  splendid  building,  covering  an  area 
of  about  15,000  square  meters.  The  great  engine,  which  was  in 
one  large  room,  was  full  of  interesting  machinery.  Don't  ask 
me  anything  more  about  it,  please,  as  I  cannot  go  into  details. 
It  all  made  a  splendid  impression  upon  the  visitors. 


155 


CHAPTER  Xn. 

The  Art  Exhibit. 

I  visited  in  the  Art  Hall  more  frequently  than  anywhere  else. 
One  gets  terribly  tired  from  trying  to  comprehend  a  long  array 
of  machinery,  sloyd,  manufactured  goods  and  the  results  of  va- 
ried industries,  unless  one  has  the  good  fortune  of  being  a  pro- 
fessional. It  is  different  with  the  beautiful.  That  wonderful,  un- 
defined something,  and  the  love  of  it,  is  the  common  mark  of 
nobility  of  the  human  kind.  There  is  room  for  us  all.  We 
have  a  right  to  be  there,  at  least  as  interested  lookers-on. 

The  Art  Hall  was  a  fine  building  and  the  exhibits  were  very 
creditable.  I  am  only  a  "layman"  when  it  comes  to  these  things, 
and  being  aware  of  the  fact,  you  will  kindly  allow  me  to  use 
the  eyes  and  words  of  another  Eethany-man,  who  is  a  profes- 
sional and  fully  knows  whereof  he  speaks.     He  says: — 

"In  order  to  exercise  a  reliable  judgment  concerning  any 
special  thing,  one  must  have  a  special  knowledge  of  just  that 
one  thing.  Painters,  sculptors,  and  architects  are  very  often  de- 
prived of  one  advantage,  accorded  to  other  artists,  that  of  being 
judged  by  competent  men,  specialists,  knowing  whereof  they 
speak.  Art  productions  are  usually  criticised  by  so-called  spe- 
cialists, it  is  true,  but  these  are,  as  a  rule,  newspaper  men,  literary 
men,  poets  or  sometimes  only  well-read  men  in  general,  who, 
among  other  studies,  may  have  looked  through  a  volume  on 
aesthetics,  but  who  seldom  aft-e  artists  themselves.  The  art  criti- 
cisms published  by  the  press  very  naturally  influences  the  public 
in  a  marked  degree.  The  press  is  largely  responsible  for  the 
deplorable  fact  that  people  in  general  purchase  their  paintings 
with  so  little  judgment.  How^  often  do  we  not  find  that  real  art 
products  are  vehemently  criticised  and  condemned  by  newspa- 
pers and  magazines,  while  indififerent  canvasses  are  lauded  way 


up  In  the  skies.  The  artists  call  attention  to  this  fact,  but  receive 
in  reply:  "How  would  it  turn  out  if  you  artists,  known,  as  you 
are,  as  being  eccentric  and  one-sided,  should  yourselves  wield 
the  power  of  public  criticism.  No,  that  would  not  do  at  all.  We 
must  hear  outsiders  with  a  clear  head  and  unbiased  judgment 
to  pass  on  those  things."  The  artist  calls  attention  to  the  fact 
that  one  must  have  studied  art,  in  order  to  fully  understand  art. 
He  now  receives  the  following  as  a  reply:  "Has  not  the  art- 
critic,  Mr.  X.,  studied  art?  I  admit  that  he  never  held  a  brush 
in  his  own  hand,  but  he  cannot  be  caught  in  the  History  of  Art; 
he  has  visited  every  Exposition  of  note,  he  has  seen  all  the 
great  galleries  of  Europe,  and  it  would  be  impossible  for  him  not 
to  distinguish  at  once  an  original  'Frans  Hals'  or  'Van  Dyck.' 
Such  a  man  ought  to  understand  art,  his  judgment  is  not  clouded 
by  adherence  to  any  'school'  or  other  eccentricities  of  taste  and 
judgment."  This  may  all  be  true,  but  let  us  ask:  "Does  not 
even  such  a  man  often  stand  in  front  of  a  painting  or  piece  of 
sculpture  full  of  admiration,  without  noticing  the  lack  of  artistic 
character  in  that  production,  or  even  real,  blunders  in  the  sketch- 
ing and  coloring,  while  an  artist,  because  of  his  special  studies 
and  practice,  notices  those  things  without  effort  and  at  once. 

Let  us  use  an  instance  from  another  arena  as  an  illustration 
of  what  I  mean.  Mr.  Y.  has  never  touched  a  musical  instru- 
ment during  his  entire  life  so  far,  but  he  is  endowed  with  a  good 
ear  for  music  and  has  attended  concerts  and  operas,  and  he  has 
heard  the  best  singers  and  musicians  in  all  of  America  and  Eu- 
rope. Would  not  Mr.  Y.,  then,  be  a  splendid  musical  critic? 
His  splendid  ear.  has  listened  to  much  fine  music,  his  unbiased 
judgment  knows  of  none  of  the  controversies,  tendencies  and  the 
many  details  belonging  to  vocal  training  and  all  other  depart- 
ments of  music.  Why  don't  the  authorities  send  him  up  to 
write  a  review  and  critique  of  a  great  symphony-concert  or  a 
renowned  opera?  You  say,  that  ^ould  be  preposterous.  But 
admitting  your  position,  why  do  people  believe  that  the  profes- 
sionally untrained  eye  is  more  reliable  in  judging  art  than  the  un- 
trained ear  is  in  judging  music? 

We  have  called  attention  to  these  facts  in  order  to  emphasize 
the  great  importance  of  a  reliable,  adequate  and  fair  public  cri- 
tique of  the  products  of  art.  Upon  this  public  judgment  rests 
not  a  little  of  responsibility,  yes,  accountability.  Professional 
knowledge  ought  to  receive  greater  acknowledgment. 

^57 


It  is  true  that  many  artists  are  full  of  bias,  envy  and  partisan- 
ship, but  there  are  many  exceptions,  artists  who  judge  of  art 
from  a  truly  independent  artistic  and  intelligent  point  of  view. 
The  taste  of  the  public  should  be  cultivated,  developed,  raised, 
so  that  their  eyes  would  be  opened  to  the  recognition  of  what  is 
great,  noble  and  true  in  art.  True  art  and  artists  deserve  to 
be  encouraged;  all  false  art  and  all  forms  of  humbuggery  in  art 
should  be  exterminated. 

As  a  general  rule,  art  is  now  in  a  flourishing  condition.  Every 
country  seems  to  have  its  Golden  Age  in  art.  In  the  beginning 
of  modern  times  it  was  Italy,  then  came  Spain,  Holland,  Bel- 
gium, etc.  During  a  large  part  of  this  century  France  has  dom- 
inated, but  during  the  later  years  Scandinavia,  Germany,  Eng- 
land and  America  have  made  gigantic  strides  towards  the  first 
ranks  among  living  artists.  We  are  now,  especially,  in  Scandi- 
navia, in  a  crisis,  as  it  were.  The  joyous  but  efifeminate  idealism 
of  the  middle  of  this  century  produced  in  the  eighties  the  daring, 
brutal,  but  strong  realism  and  naturalism  which  is  so  well 
known.  This  is  now  making  room  for  a  new  tendency.  This 
we  felt  and  noticed  as  we  looked  upon  and  examined  the  art 
exhibits  at  Stockholm,  especially  in  the  room  belonging  to  the 
North-lands.  During  a  crisis  or  great  change  artists  make  them- 
selves guilty  of  many  extremes,  some  of  them  almost  comical. 
So  even  now.  The  ideal  tendencies  which  now  permeate  art  have 
found  their  most  radical  exponents  in  synthetism  and  pointism. 
These  have  now  cooled  oflf  somewhat  and  allowed  themselves  to 
be  jewed  down  to  symbolism  and  romanticism.  These  tendeijcies 
are  yet  in  their  teens  and  are  guilty  of  many  boyish  escapades, 
showing  lack  of  correct  discipline  in  many  instances.  But  they 
are  very  interesting,  especially  if  one  looks  upon  them  as  a 
transition  to  a  more  manly,  mature  and  noble  idealism. 

We  trust  that  when  these  comical,  immature  extremes  have 
run  their  course,  the  next  era  in  art  will  prove  to  be  the  greatest 
of  them  all. 

Let  us  briefly  look  at  the  Swedish  art  exhibits  at  Stock- 
holm. 

Count  Von  Rosen  is  a  true  artist  and  his  paintings  are  above 
all  the  quarrels  of  the  "schools."  W1iat  a  fine  conception  is 
not  displayed  in  his  portraits  of  Palm,  the  painter,  and  Wikner, 
the  philosopher.  Among  the  earlier  paintings  of  Von  Rosen,  not 
now  exhibited,  are  his  "Prodigal  Son"  and  "Erik  XIV.  and  Karin 

158 


Mansdotter,"  unsurpassed  in  Swedish  art  as  to  noble  symbolism 
and  a  true  portrayal  of  the  times  represented. 

We  stop  intentively  in  front  of  Zorn's  painting  and  are  amazed 
at  the  simplicity  and  stolidity  of  his  conception  and  the  bril- 
liancy of  his  technique.  How  easily  does  not  his  brush  overcome 
every  obstacle.  Zorn  has  always  been  Zorn,  and  will  in  all  prob- 
ability remain  the  same.  He  is  himself  and  walks  composedly 
and  independently  through  all  the  "schools"  and  "tendencies." 
Some  years  ago  I  stood  in  front  of  a  canvas  by  Zorn  in  company 
with  an  angry,  radical  synthetist.  The  face  of  the  latter  gradu- 
ally changed  into  a  smile  of  admiration.  He  could  not  help 
himself.  He  was  charmed  in  spite  of  his  own  assertion  a  few  min- 
utes before,  that  "Zorn  was  superficial."  He  said:  "It  is  really  im- 
possible not  to  admire  Zorn."  It  is  interesting  to  know  that  Zorn's 
portrait  of  himself  belongs  to  the  National  Gallery  of  Sweden. 

I  am  also  glad  to  know  that  two  other  Swedish  artists  have 
received  well-merited  recognition.  I  refer  to  Bruno  Liljefors 
and  Richard  Bergh.  What  a  grand  conception  of  nature  and 
animal  life  is  not  exhibited  by  Liljefors  in  his  "Ocean  Eagles," 
"The  Swan,"  etc.  This  is  what  we  would  call  the  painting  of 
animal  life  in  its  perfection.  How  different  from  that  which  was 
admired  formerly  in  Sweden.  Then  it  was  a  yellow,  little,  fat, 
pug-nosed  puppy  with  glasses,  and  with  his  fore-paws  on  an 
opened  book,  or  a  cat, looking  out  from  the  interior  of  an  old  shoe. 
Those  paintings  sold  easily,  but  that  was  play,  not  art,  and  a 
degradation  of  true  art,  which  should  be  discountenanced.  Bergh 
is  an  emotional,  mystic,  philosophically  inclined  artist.  Some- 
times he  is  peculiar,  but  always  interesting  on  account  of  his 
unusual  ability.  Bergh's  celebrated  portrait,  "My  Wife,"  is  one 
of  the  best  ever  produced  by  a  Swedish  brush.  The  same  is  true 
of  his  portraits  of  Miss  Eva  Bonnier,  although  some  critics  tried 
to  bring  it  into  disrepute  at  first. 

The  portrait  of  Prince  Eugene,  by  Bjorck,  at  the  Museum,  is 
splendid,  but  we  were  disappointed  in  his  paintings  at  the  Expo- 
sition. Carl  Larson  is  tallented,  funny,  varied,  spiritual,  but 
sometimes  somewhat  empty  and  played-out.  Ernst  Josephson  is 
a  great  colorist,  interesting  and  clear-cut  in  his  conception.  His 
portrait  of  Skanberg  is  excellent.  The  same  is  true  of  his  "Sme- 
der"  and  "Stromkarl."  The  latter  was  offered  to  the  National 
Gallery  as  a  gift,  but  was  refused  as  not  sufficiently  representa- 
tive of  Swedish  art.     Incredible,  but  true! 

163 


Among  landscape  painters  Wahlberg,  whose  "Moonlight"  is 
at  the  National  Gallery,  should  be  mentioned,  although  some 
call  him  old.  Prince  Eugene  is  an  artist  of  no  mean  rank,  as 
his  "Molnet,"  "Sommarnatt,"  "Dar  Skogen  bleknar"  testify. 
Emil  Jansson's  specialty  for  years  has  been  night  scenes.  Per 
Ekstrom  has  a  fine,  poetic  conception  of  nature.  Karl  Nord- 
strom is  worthy  of  consideration,  but  he  is  beginning  to  be  too 
eccentric,  in  our  opinion.  Kreuzer  is  in  danger  of  losing  his  in- 
dividuality as  an  artist. 

Among  Sweden's  lady  artists  mention  should  be  made  of  Eva 
Bonnier,  Elizabeth  Keyser  and  others. 

Prof.  John  Borjeson  is  a  great  sculptor,  and  many  of  his 
works  adorn  public  places.  We  may  mention  the  statues  of  Carl 
X.  Gustaf  at  Malmo,  of  Geijer  at  Upsala,  and  of  Scheele  at  Hum- 
legarden,  Stockholm.  The  most  gifted  of  all  Sweden's  sculptors 
is  probably  Per  Hasselberg.  His  statues,  "Snoklockan,"  "Nack- 
rosen,"  and  "Grodan,"  are  wonders  of  beauty  and  purity  of  both 
conception  and  execution.  This  is  also  true  in  almost  the  same 
degree  of  the  works  of  Christian  Eriksson. 

But  we  must  close  our  survey  of  the  Swedish  artists  and  their 
interesting  and  creditable  works.  We  cannot  but  express  our 
surprise,  however,  that  so  many  well-known  artists  were  not 
represented  at  all  at  the  Exposition,  while  others,  unknown,  were 
represented  by  paintings  of  seemingly  small  merit  and  interest. 

The  total  impression  we  received  from  the  Swedish  part  of 
the  Art  Exhibit  was  that  in  some  respects  it  was  unexcelled  as 
to  variety,  fertility  of  ideas,  great  strength  and  originality,  but 
that  the  order  of  exhibit  w^as  without  plan,  if  the  idea  was  any 
other  than  the  simple  decoration  of  the  walls. 

The  Norwegian  Department  was  characterized  by  strength 
and  seriousness,  and  it  contained  many  noble  and  worthy  works 
of  art. 

Werenskiold,  by  many  placed  foremost  among  living  Nor- 
wegian artists,  exhibited  splendid  portraits,  among  which  may 
be  mentioned  that  of  the  artist  Collet. 

Thaulow's  landscapes  show  much  feeling  and  a  fine  concep- 
tion. Among  other  prominent  Norwegian  artists  we  might  men- 
tion Eilif  Peterson,  Sinding,  Strom,  Collet,  Heycrdahl,  etc. 

Danish  art  is  hardly  to  be  compared  with  Swedish  as  to 
strength  and  variety,  but  equals  it  in  warmth,  feeling  and  life. 
Allow  us  to  mention  in  this  connection  Kroger,  Aucher,  Uiggo 

164 


Johansen,    Paulson,    Skoogaard,    Wllliamsen,    and    others. 

Finnish  art  ranks  very  high  and,  as  that  of  Norway,  is  known 
by  its  strength  and  seriousness,  allow  us  to  mention  the  names 
of  Edelfelt  and  Gallen. 

American  art  has  lately  advanced  very  rapidly.  Daring, 
strength,  breadth,  and  intensity  are  its  chief  characteristics.  The 
best  conception  of  American  art  one  receives  at  Paris,  where  a 
whole  army  of  American  artists  may  be  found.  At  Stockholm 
Sargent  was  represented  by  two  portraits,  Harrison  by  several 
fine  landscapes,  Vormole  by  landscape,  Alexander  by  three,  of 
which  his  "Rest"  provoked  much  favorable  criticism,  and  Whis- 
tler by  two  small,  but  good  paintings.  I  have  seen  many  proofs 
of  Sargent's  and  Whistler's  high  rank  as  artists  in  London,  Paris 
and  America.  Whistler's  canvas  in  the  Luxembourg  Gallery  is 
in  all  of  its  simplicity  so  grand,  that  we  hardly  know  of  any- 
thing superior  to  it  in  modern  art. 

Among  the  many  excellent  paintings  in  the  German  Depart- 
ment allow  us  to  mention  the  unexcelled  portrait  of  Bismarck  bv 
the  master,  Leubach.  We  see  not  only  Prince  Bismarck  on  that 
canvas,  we  think  we  notice  also  the  entire  idea  of  German  unity 
in  that  noble  masterpiece. 

England  exhibited  many  paintings  of  much  interest  by  Watts, 
Waterhouse,  Swan,  Shannon,  Burne-Jones,  and  others.  One 
who  has  seen  the  galleries  of  London  and  Liverpool  has  learned 
to  respect  the  art  of  England. 

Of  French  art  none  receives  an  adequate  idea  except  in 
France.  One  must  see  it  at  home,  that  is  in  Paris.  There  is 
only  one  Pavis  dn  Chavannes  in  the  world,  and  he  is  a  French- 
man. 

We  have  not  time  to  speak  of  the  art  of  Italy,  Spain,  Russia 
and  Belgium. 

In  our  opinion  the  art  exhibit  was  the  grand  climax  of  the 
Stockholm  Exposition.     The  Art  Hall  itself  was  a  piece  of  art. 


165 


CHAPTER  XIIL 

To    NORRLAND    IN   THE    COMPANY    OF   THE   JOURNALISTS. 

There  is  one  part  of  Sweden  resembling  the  United  States 
more  than  any  other  section,  and  yet  there  is  nothing  in  all  of 
King  Oscar's  land  so  entirely  different  from  our  country  as  just 
that  province.  I  refer  to  Norrland,  a  territory  covering  more 
than  one-half  of  the  area  of  Sweden,  with  a  population  of  only 
slightly  over  half  a  million  of  people.  A  few  decades  ago  the 
Humber  of  inhabitants  was  less  than  half  of  that  sum.  The  be- 
ginning is  only  yet.  Fifty  years  from  now  the  present  territory 
of  Norrland  ought  to  contain  a  population  of  at  least  two  mil- 
lions. 

Why?  Let  me  tell  you.  The  lumber  interests  of  Norrland 
are  simply  unlimited.  The  forests  are  as  a  rule  not  allowed  to 
be  destroyed.  The  large  companies  and  the  government  are 
cutting  only  timber,  having  reached  a  certain  size.  In  that  man- 
ner the  forests  are  preserved  and  will  also  become  more  valuable 
as  time  passes  on.  The  lumber  output  of  only  the  Sundsvall 
and  Hernosand  districts  for  last  year  was  upwards  of  fifty  millions 
kronor. 

The  entire  lumber  export  of  Sweden  for  the  same  year,  not 
including  the  home  consumption,  was  116,961,572  kronor.  The 
bulk  of  this  sum  goes  to  Norrland. 

That  is  not  all.  The  mountains  are  full  of  valuable  minerals. 
I  will  mention  only  the  Gellivare  district.  There  are  whole  moun- 
tains of  the  most  excellent  iron  ore  in  the  world  in  that  far 
away  land.  What  is  in  sight  would  be  enough  to  supply  the 
present  need  of  the  world  for  one  hundred  and  twenty  years.  A 
railroad  has  lately  been  completed  to  Gellivare.  The  beginning 
is  made  and  600,000  tons  of  iron  ore  are  now  shipped  annually. 
It  will  be  millions  of  tons  by  and  by. 

166 


There  are  many  rivers  and  cataracts  in  Norrland.  These 
will  be  put  to  service  in  producing  electricity  in  practically  un- 
measured quantities.  The  electricity  so  produced  will  be  used 
in  the  reduction  of  the  iron  ore.  No  ore,  but  the  best  grade  of 
iron  and  steel  will  then  be  shipped  from  Norrland  to  the  markets 
of  the  world.  All  of  this  will  give  employment  to  thousands  of 
laborers,  keep  the  money  at  home,  and  add  to  the  general  pros- 
perity of  the  people. 

I  am  not  done  yet.  In  Jemtland,  a  part  of  Norrland,  there 
is  a  sufficient  area  of  agricultural  lands,  which,  if  cultivated, 
would  produce  enough  cereals  to  feed  the  entire  present  popu- 
lation of  Sweden.  That  soil  will  be  tilled  some  day.  Agriculture 
in  general  will  be  pushed  to  the  front,  being  largely  neglected 
now,  on  account  of  the  ease  by  which  the  Norrland  farmer  has 
received  money  from  his  forest  lands.  Now  the  laborers  of  Norr- 
land import  their  pork  largely  from  the  United  States,  and  get 
their  meal  flour  in  the  same  manner  from  Russia.  Meat, butter  and 
eggs,  bread  stufifs,  everything  demands  a  good  price,  but  the 
Norrland  agriculturists  of  to-day  are  too  indolent,  or  at  least 
not  enough  enterprising  to  produce  sufficient  products  for  their 
own  home  consumption.  These  conditions  will  not  last,  how- 
ever. By  and  by  the  Norrland  farmers  will  wake  up  and  farm 
their  fertile  lands  and  raise  beef  and  chickens  and  eggs  and  even 
bread  stufifs  in  amazing  quantities. 

All  this  will  make  business  along  every  line.  The  beginning 
is  already  made. 

And  now,  my  dear  readers,  we  will  start  for  Norrland  from 
Sweden's  far-famed  beautiful  capital  city,  Stockholm. 

The  trip  is  a  delightful  one.  In  summer  you  always  make 
it  by  one  of  the  many  well-built  commodious  steamers,  plying 
between  Stockholm  and  Sundsvall,  Hernosand,  Ume§,  Lule^, 
Pitea.  To  Sundsvall  and  Hernosand  you  may  start  any  day  of 
the  week.  The  fare  to  the  latter  place,  lirst-class,  is  only  i8 
kronor,  or  hardly  $5.00,  for  a  distance  of  350  miles,  consuming 
from  20  to  24  hours.  If  one  buys  a  round  trip  ticket,  good  for 
30  days,  the  proportionate  cost  is  reduced  very  materially.  The 
above  price  does  not  include  board,  which  is  paid  for  extra. 
The  cost  now  depends  upon  the  traveler's  taste  and  habits.  To 
me  this  meant  only  about  a  dollar  and  twenty-five  cents  for  the 
trip  per  capita,  as  we  in  Kansas  are  used  to  express  it. 

At  the  boat-landing  Airs.  Edla  Lund,  formerly  of  Bethany, 

167 


now  of  Augustana  college,  met  us  to  exchange  greetings.  At 
3:05  p.  m.  we  started  on  our  northern  trip.  It  was  a  most 
delightful  day,  and  we  enjoyed  the  unapproached  beauty  of  the 
"Skargirden"  or  the  entrance  from  the  Baltic  into  the  Stock- 
holm harbor,  more  than  I  can  express  it  in  a  few,  feeble  words. 
Our  trance  of  ecstasy  lasted  for  nearly  five  hours.  Then  at 
about  eight  o'clock  in  the  evening  we  had  finally  reached  the 
open  sea. 

I  tell  you  Sweden  is  as  charming  as  before,  even  if  you  come 
directly  from  Paris  and  the  Rhine.  Its  beauty  is  strictly  its  own, 
it  is  not  borrowed  from  anyone  else.  Oh,  I  wish  there  were 
another  name!  "Skargdrden,"  sounds  too  simple,  indeed.  Yes, 
let  me  call  it  a  piece-meal  paradise.  No,  even  that  is  insufficient. 
Watch  for  five  hours  as  we  did,  all  of  those  little  islands,  capes, 
sounds,  waterways  in  every  direction  with  their  bright,  spring- 
like verdure,  their  majestic,  but  pleasant  rocks,  polished  slowly 
by  the  waves  of  the  Baltic  during  thousands  of  years;  the  hun- 
dreds of  summer  villas,  dotting  the  lovely  scene,  and  giving  life 
and  youthful  pleasure  to  the  entire  panorama;  the  dozens  of 
steamers  and  yachts,  plying  to  the  north  and  south,  to  the  east 
and  west;  stand  as  we  did,  trying  to  perpetuate  the  memory  of 
this  scene  or  that,  until  you  were  fairly  bewildered  and  had  to 
give  it  up — Yes,  do  all  this,  and  then  give  me  an  adequate  name 
for  a  picture  of  such  freshness,  such  variety,  such  beauty,  such 
inspiration  and  invigoration,  a  name  that  would  tell  the  story  to 
one  who  has  never  been  there  to  see  for  himself.  No,  it  cannot 
be  done.  Again  and  again  the  panorama  is  almost  the  same, 
then  changes,  then  returns,  until  it  seemed  to  me,  that  there  was 
an  immense,  winding  boulevard  of  islands  and  capes,  of  sounds 
and  inlets,  standing  on  parade  to  please  the  American  tourists, 
paying  a  visit  to  the  home  city  of  that  charming  man  and  mon- 
arch. King  Oscar  II. 

I  saw  this  wonderful,  romantic  and  never-to-be-forgotten  en- 
trance to  Stockholm  five  times  during  the  summer,  but,  oh, 
that  I  could  have  passed  over  those  charmed  waters  yet  many 
times  more.  When  one  has  arrived  in  Stockholm  through  the 
Baltic  "Skargarden,"  or  archipelago,  from  the  east,  and  from 
the  "Malaren"  on  the  west,  he  feels  instinctively,  that  there  is 
only  one  Stockholm  in  all  the  wide,  wide  world.  The  guess  is 
right.     Even  some  fine  specimens  of  John  Bull  admit  it. 

We  were  not  alone  on  the  beautiful  steamer.     Chief  among 

168 


our  fellow-passengers  was  a  party  of  members  of  the  great  In- 
ternational Congress  of  Journalists  just  held  at  Stockholm.  They 
were  from  Germany,  France  and  Southern  Europe.  How  they 
talked!  Such  speed!  Did  you  ever  see  a  runaway  cyclone  in 
Minnesota?  Yes.  Well  that  is  standing  still  as  compared  to 
those  French  and  Italian  tongues  that  I  listened  to.  Did  you 
hear  the  click  of  a  hundred  telegraph  instruments,  all  going  at 
once?  Then  you  have  it.  That  is  the  way  it  sounded  from 
their  dining-room,  later  on  in  the  afternoon.  Fine  fellows,  all  of 
them,  and  some  very  distinguished,  but — they  should  have  talked 
English!  Some  Swedish  journalists,  who  had  the  party  in  charge, 
very  kindly  ofifered  to  introduce  me  and  invited  me  to  share  in 
their  refreshments,  but  neither  my  tongue  nor  my  palate  and 
throat  had  the  right  sort  of  an  education  for  that  kind  of  a  pro- 
gram, and  so  I  politely  declined.  Some  of  these  newspaper  men 
experienced  not  a  little  trouble  about  finding  the  right  state- 
rooms, when  the  time  to  go  to  bed  finally  had  arrived. 

In  speaking  of  the  journalists,  anyone  who  looked  upon 
their  radiant  faces  could  easily  see  that  they  enjoyed  their  stay 
in  Sweden  in  the  highest  degree.  The  congress  of  the  jour- 
nalists was  one  of  the  most  important  events  of  the  summer 
and  of  the  Exposition.  Among  other  things,  the  result  of  this 
congress  of  newspaper  men  was,  that  the  land  of  our  Fathers  was 
advertised  as  never  before.  We  arrived  too  late  to  participate 
in  this  mighty  meeting,  even  as  lookers-on,  and  as  I  was  not 
a  delegate,  I  must  content  myself  with  telling  you  what  the  best 
Stockholm  and  Chicago  papers  said  of  it. 

Those  who  took  part  in  the  congress  arrived  in  Stockholm 
by  a  special  train  on  the  evening  of  a  midsummer's-day.  Some 
came  from  IMalmo,  others  from  Gothenburg,  where,  as  was  also 
the  case  at  Copenhagen,  they  w^ere  received  in  the  most  obliging 
manner  by  their  professional  brethren.  At  the  latter  place  a 
very  enthusiastic  festival,  winding  up  with  a  magnificent  display 
of  fire-works,  was  given  in  their  honor.  The  journalists  of 
Malmo  had  arranged  for  a  dinner  in  the  King's  park  for  their 
foreign  guests.  Here  the  Frenchmen  seemed  to  attract  the  most 
attention.  About  70  of  those  who  participated  in  the  festival  at 
Copenhagen  went  to  Gothenburg,  where  the  reception  was  not 
less  hearty.  The  local  committee  had  prepared  carriages  and 
took  their  guests  to  all  the  points  of  interest  in  the  city,  after 
which,  upon  the  invitation  of  the  management  of  the  Mountain 

169 


R,  R.,  they  boarded  a  special  train  and  made  a  visit  to  Troll- 
hattan  falls,  where  they  took  dinner. 

All  was  bustle  and  commotion  in  the  central  railroad  depot 
at  Stockholm.  Greetings  were  exchanged  in  several  languages 
as  the  strangers  arrived.  Then  the  travelers  were  ushered  into 
carriages  and  conveyed  to  the  hotels. 

At  9  o'clock  in  the  evening  the  Journalists'  Club  tendered 
them  a  grand  reception  on  the  Opera  Terrace.  The  sky  was 
clear  over  the  river  and  city,  and  on  this  charming  summers 
evening,  the  strangers  received  their  first  impressions  of  the  va- 
ried beauties  of  Stockholm,  the  queen  of  Malaren.  The  agree- 
able reception  was  in  no  wise  disturbed  because  a  few  Italians 
had,  in  their  thirst  and  haste,  happened  to  empty,  each  one  a  very 
large  glass  of  Swedish  beer,  thinking  all  the  while  that  it  was 
nothing  but  ordinary  cold  water,  and  as  a  result  felt  rather  weak- 
ened than  strengthened,  and  with  wry  faces  complained  that  the 
water  of  Sweden  was  full  of  mineral  qualities. 

The  dinner  was  one  confusion  of  tongues  and  voices,  in  one 
dialectal,  cosmopolitan  language,  and  the  conversation  afterwards 
was  even  more  animated.  It  became  a  festival  tending  to  unite 
all  into  one  common  brotherhood;  Frenchmen  and  Germans, 
Swedes  and  Spaniards,  Danes  and  Italians  agreed  as  if  they  all 
were  of  the  same  nationality,  and  the  ladies,  about  one  hundred 
in  number,  with  their  handsome  toilettes  and  good  humor,  did 
their  part  to  increase  the  gladness  of  the  occasion. 

The  address  of  welcome  was  made  by  Mr.  Hildebrand,  curator 
of  the  Royal  Museum.  The  festival  continued  until  morning,  so 
that  those  who  were  from  countries  situated  farther  south  had 
the  opportunity  of  beholding  a  northern  midsummer's  night. 

On  June  26th  at  10  o'clock  a.  m.  the  congress  held  its  first 
session  in  the  spacious  auditorium  of  the  House  of  Nobles. 
Baron  A.  E.  Nordenskiold,  chairman  of  the  committee  of  the 
journalists'  congress,  amid  thundering  applauses,  welcomed  the 
congress  to  Stockholm.  When  the  sound  of  the  applause  had 
died  away  Count  Douglas,  the  foreign  minister,  arose  to  greet 
the  congress  in  behalf  of  the  Swedish  government. 

When  he  had  finished  there  was  a  momentary  pause.  Soon 
the  cry:  "Le  roi"  was  heard  and  at  the  same  time  the  tall  and 
stately  form  of  the  King  appeared  in  back  part  of  the  auditorium. 
With  hearty  greetings  right  and  left,  he  strides  forward  through 
the  hall,  accompanied  by  the  crown  prince  and  the  members  of 

170 


the  central  committee,  and  seats  himself  in  the  chair  which  had 
been  prepared  for  him,  at  the  chairman's  right  side.  When  the 
shout  of  "Long  Hve  the  King"  had  ceased  Air.  Wilhehn  Singer, 
the  president,  declared  the  congress  opened.  In  a  long  and 
mteresting  speech  he  gave  an  account  of  the  development  of 
the  press  organization  and  of  the  congresses  held  at  Bordeaux, 
Antv^erp  and  Budapest.  The  organization  extends  to  nearly 
all  parts  of  the  civilized  world.  Only  the  English  journalists 
remain  outside,  but  it  is  hoped  that  they  will  soon  join.  At  the 
close  of  his  address,  Mr.  Singer  turned  to  his  majesty.  King 
Oscar,  and  proposed  a  "Long  live  the  King."  The  cry  was 
taken  up  by  the  whole  audience.     All  paid  homage  to  the  King. 

Moved  by  the  attention  showed  him,  his  majesty  arose,  and 
in  his  own  name  and  in  the  name  of  the  crown  prince  he  thanked 
the  congress,  using  the  French  language. 

Thereupon  the  congress  adjourned,  but  the  King  remained 
yet  for  some  time. 

The  congress  was  assembled  in  the  House  of  Parliament  and 
took  up  the  work  in  sections. 

The  first  section  met  in  the  hall  of  the  first  chamber  of  Par- 
liament and  discussed  the  question  of  literary  ownership. 

The  duty  of  the  second  section  was  to  discuss  the  questions 
of  a  reduction  in  the  price  of  telegrams  for  the  press  and  the 
advisability  of  an  international  employment  bureau  for  journal- 
ists. It  met  in  the  conference  rooms  of  the  first  chamber  of 
Parliament. 

At  2  p.  m.  a  joint  meeting  was  held,  over  which  the  curator 
of  the  Royal  Museum,  Mr.  Hildebrand,  presided.  It  was  an- 
nounced that  the  minister  from  England,  who  was  present,  had 
placed  himself  at  the  disposal  of  the  congress.  Hereafter  a  com- 
munication from  the  English  press  was  read  to  the  effect  that 
the  most  important  members  of  the  English  Institute  of  Journal- 
ism had  formed  an  association  for  the  purpose  of  joining  the 
general  Press  Association  of  Europe. 

After  the  reading  of  the  treasurer's  report,  which  showed 
a  balance  of  3,000  francs,  the  association's  central  committee 
was  made  complete  by  the  election  of  Mr.  Carstensen  of  Den- 
mark and  Mr.  Bonifandini  of  Italy. 

A  large  crowd  of  foreigners  had  assembled  to  see  the  exhibi- 
tion in  swimming  which  Director  Kohler  had  arranged  to  take 
place  on  the  same  day,  in  honor  of  the  congress  of  the  journal- 

^7Z 


ists.  The  exhibition  was  a  grand  success  and  both  surprised 
and  pleased  the  observers. 

In  the  evening  the  city  of  Stockholm  held  a  festival  in  honor 
of  the  foreigners.  The  festival  was  celebrated  in  Behren's  hall,  in 
the  park  of  Berzelius.  Upon  this  occasion  the  park  was  closed 
to  the  public.  About  800  of  the  principal  citizens  of  Stock- 
holm were  present.  A  concert  headed  the  evening's  program. 
The  court  orchestra  played;  Mr.  Arvid  Odman,  Tor  Aulin  and 
Miss  Thulin  sang.  Supper  was  now  served.  Baron  Tamm,  the 
chief  governor,  proposed  a  toast  to  the  foreign  guests  and  ex- 
pressed the  hope  that  they  would  carry  with  them  only  pleasant 
memories  from  Sweden.  The  toast  was  responded  to  by  Mr.  de 
Taunay,  president  of  the  International  Press  Association.  After 
supper,  cofifee  was  served  in  the  open  air,  and  Meissner's  or- 
chestra played  the  national  airs  of  the  several  countries  repre- 
sented. This  brought  the  enthusiasm  of  the  different  national- 
ities up  to  a  very  high  pitch. 

The  second  joint  congress  of  the  journalists  was  held  on 
June  26,  after  Riddarholm's  church  and  the  National  Museum 
had  been  visited.  Dr.  Lauser,  the  vice-president,  presided.  The 
question  concerning  the  cost  of  international  telegrams  for  the 
press  came  first.  Mr.  A.  de  Beraza,  who  had  prepared  the 
report,  opened  the  discussion  with  a  brief  explanation  of  the 
leading  points  in  his  report.  Through  the  mediation  of  Mr. 
Boucher,  minister  for  the  French  posts  and  telegraph  system, 
negotiations  had  been  begun  with  several  countries  concerning 
the  telegraph  question.  These  negotiations  had  up  to  the  pres- 
ent time  led  to  the  following  results:  Germany,  Belgium,  Bul- 
garia, Netherlands,  Roumania  and  Switzerland  would  make  no 
reduction  in  rates  for  the  press;  Austria,  Servia,  Portugal  have 
not  yet  answered,  but  it  is  probable  that  Austria  will  refuse;  Italy 
has  not  yet  decided  but  a  favorable  answer  is  expected.  Eng- 
land will  accept  the  proposal  but  wishes  the  telegrams  to  be  sent 
by  night.  France,  Spain,  Luxemburg  and  Sweden  have 
answered  favorably,  Denmark  and  Norway  are  yet  to  be 
heard  from.  Resolutions  to  continue  the  negotiations  were 
carried. 

The  question  of  literary  ownership  followed.  Considerin^g 
the  principle  it  involved,  this  was  the  most  important  of  all  the 
questions  before  the  congress,  and  one  that  from  the  beginning 
had  been  the  source  of  many  heated  discussions,  both  for  and 

174 


against.     Mr.  A.  Bataille  of  P'rance  and  ^Ir.  A.  Ostcrrieth  of 
Germany  presented  the  following  resolutions: — 

1.  It  is  desired  that  all  newspaper  articles,  which  are  the  pro- 
duct of  mental  labor  (qui  constituent  des  oeuvres  de  I'esprit),  be 
protected  as  such  without  any  conditions  or  restrictions.  Yet 
there  is  reason  for  making  a  distinction  between  political  articles 
and  those  of  a  different  nature. 

2.  Still  the  right  of  quoting  must  be  acknowledged  as  being 
necessary  for  the  sake  of  public  discussion. 

3.  The  reprinting  of  articles  containing  information  intended 
only  for  the  press  (information  de  presse)  is  prohibited,  if  said 
reprinting  assumes  the  character  of  a  dishonorable  compe- 
tition. 

The  division  in  charge  objected  strenuously  to  these  resolu- 
tions. They  wished  to  strike  out  clauses  i  and  2  and  make  the 
following  addition  to  clause  3:  The  signature  and  source  being 
given,  is  enough  to  show  that  no  dishonorable  competition  is 
intended.  The  author  has  in  every  case  the  right  to  prohibit 
the  reprinting  of  his  articles,  holding  the  publisher  accountable. 

This  change  was  strongly  advocated  by  Messrs.  Branting  and 
Humbert.  The  latter  set  forth  his  views  with  that  warmth  and 
fervor  characteristic  of  Frenchmen,  and  he  was  often  interrupted 
by  shouts  of  assent  and  applause.  Mr.  Humbert  thought  that 
it  would  be  a  pleasure  for  an  author  to  see  his  articles  quoted, 
and  that  it  was  of  importance,  that  they  should  be  reprinted  in 
other  papers,  so  that  thereby  his  opinions  would  be  more  widely 
spread.  Moreover,  it  would  not  be  right  in  this  manner  to  sup- 
press a  number  of  the  smaller  papers,  which  occupied  an  im- 
portant place  in  the  work  of  spreading  ideas,  by  thus  prevent- 
ing them  from  using  articles  taken  from  the  larger  journals.  In 
fact,  writers  were  not  unsatisfied  because  their  articles  were  re- 
printed. It  was  only  those  authors  who  never  had  the  pleasure 
of  seeing  their  articles  quoted,  that  desired  this  protection  which 
they  did  not  need. 

On  the  same  day  at  6  p.  m.  a  dinner  was  given  at  Hassel- 
backen  by  the  management  of  the  Exposition,  in  honor  of  the 
congress.  The  crown  prince  presided.  The  speakers  were  the 
crown  prince,  Mr.  Singer,  the  chief  governor,  Mr.  Lauser  and 
Mr.  Julius  Clareties.     The  feeling  was  of  the  very  best  kind. 

About  9  o'clock  p.  m.  the  company  dispersed  in  order  to 
continue  the  festivities  in  "Old  Stockholm."     Even  this  old  part 

175 


of  the  city  called  forth  remarks  of  pleasure  and  admiration,  and 
the  festivities  here  were  also  very  successful. 

When  Helgeandsholm's  bridge  had  been  crossed  and  the 
north  gate  had  been  entered,  strains  of  Italian  music  conducted 
by  Messrs.  Andren  and  Wavvrinsky  reached  the  ears  of  the  guests. 
The  other  nations  were  also  remembered  by  short  selections 
which  were  understood  and  heartily  applauded,  ]\Ir.  Sven  Scho- 
lander,  accompanied  by  his  lute,  sang  ballads  in  many  different 
languages.  At  the  court  house  an  orchestra  played  Swedish 
melodies.  Jodde,  from  Goljaryd,  showed  how  well  he  could  sing 
the  songs  of  the  country  people.  Outside  of  St.  Gertrude's  a 
hand  of  acrobats  entertained  the  company.  At  the  Bollhus 
theater  "Snaljap"  and  other  good  things  for  the  inner  man  were 
received.  In  fact,  all  the  business  men  of  '"Old  Stockholm"  at- 
tended to  their  various  duties  with  characteristic  faithfulness. 
Various  episodes  took  place. '  Magicians,  knights  and  burghers 
of  the  17th  century  mingled  in  the  procession  of  modern  peoples. 
Things  became  lively  for  a  while,  when  a  company  of  old  farm- 
ers, dressed  like  knights  of  the  17th  century,  who  were  sitting 
around  a  table  drinking  ale,  got  into  a  previously  arranged  fight, 
and  in  the  uproar  which  followed  were  seized  by  the  ancient 
watchmen  and  conducted  away  through  the  old,  narrow  streets. 

On  Sunday  a  visit  was  made  to  the  "Skans."  All  admired  the 
remarkable  beauty  of  this  famous  place.  The  pleasure  of  the 
day  was  enhanced  by  various  kinds  of  music  and  other  enjoy- 
ments which  the  place  afforded. 

The  festivities  of  the  Stockholm  press  took  place  at  "Salts- 
jobaden,"  on  Sunday  at  5  p.  m.  The  weather  was  all  that  could 
be  desired.  The  place  was  reached  after  a  delightful  trip  by 
steamboat.  In  passing  the  mouth  of  the  narrow  sound  Staket, 
flowers  were  showered  down  upon  the  excursionists  by  the  people 
assembled. 

Among  the  many  speeches  made,  that  of  ^^Ir.  de  May  of 
Belgium,  delivered  in  almost  perfect  Swedish,  attracted  special 
attention. 

C.  O.  Montan,  editor  of  ''Stockholm's  Dagblad,"  made  the 
address  in  behalf  of  the  press  of  Stockholm.  At  8  p.  m.  the 
company  dispersed  so  as  to  be  able  to  reach  the  grand  festivities 
at  the  opera,  which  began  at  9  o'clock  p.  m.,  and  was  for  us 
Swedes  an  unusually  lively  play.  Alreadv  the  eagerness,  not  to 
say  the  confusion,  which  prevailed  before  the  play  began,  when 

176 


all  those  who  were  unacquainted  with  the  hall  should  find  their 
seats,  gave  the  place  a  new  and  interesting  appearance. 

The  proceedings  were  continued  on  Monday,  June  28,  at  10 
a.  m.     The  following  resolution  was  carried: — 

Newspaper  articles,  which  are  the  products  of  mental  labor, 
as  well  as  other  like  products,  ought  to  be  protected  by  laws 
which  assure  the  author  the  right  of  ownership.  Yet  at  our 
next  congress  it  will  be  advisable  to  investigate  how,  for,  and 
under  what  conditions  the  right  of  ownership  can  be  applied, 
especially  to  political  articles. 

The  reprinting  of  simple,  information  for  the  press  ought  to 
be  prohibited,  when  it  assumes  the  character  of  dishonorable 
competition. 

Thereupon  Mr.  Osterreith  moved  that  the  following  resolu- 
tion, formulated  by  Mr.  Hildebrand,  be  accepted: 

This  congress  expresses  as  its  desire,  that  Sweden  and  all 
other  lands  that  do  not  yet  belong  to  "I'Union  internationale 
pour  la  protection  de  la  propriete  litteraire  et  artistique"  join 
in  the  Bern  agreement  as  soon  as  possible.  The  motion  was 
carried. 

At  2  p.  m.  the  congress  assembled  again  in  full  numbers. 
The  most  important  question  in  the  order  of  business  was  the 
question  concerning  the  establishment  of  an  international  bureau 
of  correspondence.  The  division  in  charge  had  strengthened 
the  measure  in  question,  the  purpose  of  which  was  to  place 
every  newspaper  in  such  a  position,  that  upon  special  occasions 
it  could  procure  information  directly,  without  sending  a  corre- 
spondent or  being  necessitated  to  depend  upon  uncertain  sources. 
Mr.  Torelli-Viollier,  who  launched  the  measure,  spoke  very 
warmly  for  its  acceptance;  but  was  opposed  in  a  very  forcible  and 
eloquent  speech  made  by  Mr.  Laugier,  wdio  pointed  out  the  dan- 
ger of  said  measure.  The  papers  would  be  tempted  to  use  it 
even  in  such  cases  as  demanded  a  personal  knowledge  and  a 
thorough  grasp  of  facts,  and  such  a  bureau  could  easily  rob  the 
press  of  individual  genius.  Mr.  Laugier  was  supported  by  Mr. 
Schulthess,  who  pointed  that  the  telegraph  bureaus  performed 
just  the  functions  that  would  belong  to  a  central  bureau  of  this 
kind.  Mr.  Fauche  of  Marseilles  spoke  in  favor  of  the  measure. 
He  said  that  the  congress  ought  to  assist  the  smaller  and  less 
wealthy  journals,  which  could  not  afford  to  have  their  own  re- 
porters in  such  cases.     By  such  an  arrangement  these  journals 

177 


would  not  be  dependent  upon  the  larger  papers,  as  had  hitherto 
been  the  case.  After  much  discussion  both  for  and  against,  the 
resolution  was  carried. 

Messrs.  de  Sonza  and  de  Beraza  announced  that  the  press 
of  Brazil  and  Argentine  Republic  sought  to  be  admitted  to  the 
association. 

The  delegates  from  Portugal,  in  behalf  of  their  country,  pre- 
sented an  invitation  to  the  congress  to  meet  at  Lisbon  next 
year.     The  invitation  was  unanimously  accepted. 

After  much  practical  information  had  been  given  by  various 
members,  Editor  Ernst  Beckman  tendered  the  thanks  of  the 
Swedish  press  to  the  members  of  the  congress,  because  they 
had  not  permitted  the  long  distance  to  deter  them  from  attend- 
ing, and  proposed  a  four-fold  Swedish  hurra  in  honor  of  the 
fourth  international  congress  of  journalists.  The  hurras  were 
given.     The  congress  adjourned. 

On  the  evening  of  the  same  day,  the  members  of  the  con- 
gress and  other  invited  guests  went  by  steamboat  to  the  Palace 
of  Drottningholm.  The  festival  given  here  by  the  King  was 
a  brilliant  climax  to  the  many  festivals  held  in  honor  of  the 
foreign  newspaper  men. 

The  band  of  the  Svea  Life-guards  played  a  festive 
march  in  the  vestibule,  and  the  warriors  of  Charles 
XIL  with  drawn  swords,  immovable  and  silent  as  Egyp- 
tian priests,  formed  a  guard  of  honor  on  the  stairs. 
Tables  groaning  under  the  weight  of  the  bountiful  supper  were 
placed  in  nearly  every  room  of  the  lower  floor,  in  the  southern 
rooms  as  well  as  in  the  large  gallery;  and  it  was  indeed  a  supper 
that  could  tempt  the  palate  of  the  most  fastidious  person.  After 
a  while  the  King  took  the  floor,  and  using  the  French  language, 
made  a  speech  which  was  often  interrupted  by  shouts  of  applause. 

The  next  in  order  after  the  supper  was  a  promenade  in  the 
park  which  had  been  lighted  up  by  means  of  torches  and  where 
coffee  was  served.  Even  here  the  King  was  seen  conversing 
with  his  guests,  and  when  he  finally  bade  them  farewell  and 
departed,  he  was  followed  by  hearty  cheers  and  shouts  of:  "Long 
live  the  King." 

The  company  now  boarded  the  steamboats  again  and  returned 
to  the  city.  It  was  a  trip  that  will  never  be  forgotten  by  the  for- 
eign visitors. 

In  the  twilight  of  the  northern  summer  evening,  richly  illu- 

178 


minated  villas  appeared  decorated  with  flags  which  assumed  a 
very  pleasing  appearance,  in  the  now  red  and  now  blue  lights 
from  the  Bengal  fires  on  the  shores.  Roars  from  canons  and 
shouts  of  hurras  on  the  shores  accompanied  the  excursionists 
upon  their  trip. 

During  the  following  days  the  members  of  the  congress  made 
excursions  to  various  parts  of  the  country,  for  example,  to  Jon- 
koping,  Visby,  Upsala,  Dalarne,  Sundsvall  and  Ostersund. 

The  visit  to  Upsala  was  the  most  interesting.  The  visitors 
went  first  to  Old  Upsala,  where  each  one  drained  his  horn  of 
mead  on  Frey's  grave;  then  to  the  Cathedral,  where  the  mighty 
organ  pealed  forth  its  tones;  after  this  to  the  University  building, 
where  the  rector  himself  made  a  speech,  and  the  students  showed 
that  they  could  sing.  At  the  castle  the  governor  of  the  province 
invited  them  to  breakfast.  Among  the  participants  appeared 
Christine  Nilsson,  who  resides  in  Sweden  for  the  summer,  and 
who  received  much  attention  throughout  the  entire  festival. 

There  were  trips  to  Visby,  Jonkoping,  Dalarne  and  Norr- 
land.  The  latter  trip  was  extended  by  some  clear  up  to  Gellivare. 
The  Norrland  excursion  is  the  one  we  had  in  company. 

Many  excellent  addresses  were  delivered  by  members  of  the 
congress.  The  one  that  provoked  the  most  favorable  comment 
and  at  the  same  time  showing  what  the  visitors  thought  of 
Sweden  was  delivered  by  the  noted  Frenchman,  Jules  Clareties 
at  the  dinner  given  the  journalists  by  King  Oscar  at  Drottning- 
holm.     It  was  as  follows: — 


THE  ADDRESS  OF  JULES  CLARETIES. 

He  said:  Since  His  Majesty  has  had  the  kindness  to  grant  me 
the  word,  I  consider  myself,  at  the  same  time  that  I  am  deeply 
moved,  highly  fortunate  in  being  allowed  the  pleasure  of  giving 
utterance  to  the  feelings  of  gratitude  and  respect,  which  animate 
the  guests  of  Sweden.  We  have  just  witnessed  wonderful  scenes, 
w^here  nature,  art,  and  industry  have  conspired  to  astonish,  and 
transport  us.  But  the  most  lasting  impression,  which  we  will 
carry  home  wnth  us  from  this  never-to-be-forgotten  journey,  is 
that  which  the  press  of  all  nations  has  experienced  from  the 
royal  hospitality,  which  fills  us  with  gratitude. 

Yesterday,  as  we  betook  ourselves  to  Saltsjobaden,  we  be- 

1/9 


held  a  most  beautiful  scene,  one  of  those  scenes,  which  would 
test  the  brush  that  produced  "The  Summer  Night"  and  others 
among  the  superior  productions  of  the  Swedish  School.  On 
the  calm  and  peaceful  waters,  blue  as  the  heavens  themselves, 
our  boats  glided  on  between  the  cliffs  while  the  flags  of  all  na- 
tions mingled  their  colors  and  gaily  floated  in  the  lovely  breezes. 
Indeed,  I  found  in  this,  our  glorious,  nay,  almost  fairy-like  voy- 
age, the  interpretation  of  our  dream :  a  united  people,  who  pro- 
gress toward  a  common  ideal:  peace  and  brotherhood.  Trulj 
this  dream  of  philosophers  and  poets  became  for  several  hours 
a  living  reality.  The  two  boats,  which  on  the  placid  Scandi- 
navian seas  conveyed  representatives  of  so  many  European  na- 
tions, symbolized  the  united  peoples  of  His  Majesty,  the  King. 

To-day,  it  is  His  Majesty  himself  who  has  invited  us,  and 
it  is  to  him  that  the  expressions  of  our  thanks  and  our  respect 
should  be  addressed.  When  we  were  children,  we  read  the  noble 
history  of  Charles  XH.  as  a  beautiful  romance  which  Voltaire 
used  to  glorify  after  Henry  IV.  We  have  been  transported,  we, 
as  France,  by  the  artistic  power  of  fascination  and  the  knightly 
grace  of  Gustavus  III.,  when  he  transferred  to  Sweden  the  pomp 
of  Versailles  and  the  pleasure  of  Trianons. 

Modern  history  also  has  its  heroes,  and  these  are  the  pro- 
gressive men  of  a  people  who  lead  nations  which  are  intrusted 
to  them,  to  light,  liberty,  and  progress.  This  admirable  work 
is  that  of  His  Majesty,  King  Oscar  II.,  who  for  twenty-five  long 
years,  has  labored  with  great  success  for  higher  education  and 
for  the  lessening  of  poverty  in  Scandinavia. 

The  magnificent  Exposition,  which  we  have  seen  with  our 
own  eyes,  is  an  evidence  thereof.  Everywhere  the  most  power- 
ful activity.  Northern  thought  has  touched  a  certain  real  depth 
in  the  problem  of  humanity  and  caused  a  disquiet  which  has 
also  seized  the  Gallic  mind.  We  have  in  Paris  successively  paid 
homage  to  Nordenskiold  and  Nansen,  who,  while  other  peoples 
have  moistened  the  soil  of  Africa  with  their  blood,  have,  with 
danger  to  their  lives,  struggled  onward  toward  the  Midnight  Sun 
and  a  peaceful  conquest  of  the  North  Pole.  We  are  with  a 
King  and  people,  both  of  whom  are  great  because  of  their  love 
for  work  and  peace. 

The  inexhaustible  mines  of  the  North,  which  constitute 
Sweden's  chief  resource,  can  supply  the  whole  world  with  iron. 
Gellivare's  iron  shall  not  be  the  iron  of  war,  it  belongs  to  the 

i8o 


THE  exposition:      OLD  STOCKHOLM— CITY   HALL  AND   BRAKE    PALACE. 


THE   exposition:      OLD   STOCKHOL^I— THE   TdWEi:  '-THREE   CROWNS." 


plow,  to  industry,  and  is  the  iron  which  sustains  Hfe  and  not 
destroys  it.  Northern  soil,  which  produces  metals,  produces  also 
harvests. 

The  consumption  of  rye,  this  rye,  bright  as  the  locks  of  its 
growers,  the  consumption  of  rye  and  wheat  increases,  while  the 
consumption  of  alcohol  decreases.  Life  in  general  is  more  quiet 
here  than  in  any  other  place  in  the  world.  The  spiritual  life  is 
stronger,  deeper  and  more  active.  All  citizens  can  read.  All 
can  wTite,  and  how  could  it  be  otherwise?  The  King,  into  whose 
hands  their  fate  is  intrusted,  is  like  the  queen,  who  in  Stock- 
holm extended  hospitality  to  Renee  Des  Cartes,  a  king  profound 
in  talent  and  in  thought.  Both  a  poet  and  a  sailor,  he  has 
sung  of  the  sea,  the  broad  sea,  which  he  loves,  and  whose  great- 
ness and  whose  storms  he  has  celebrated. 

The  Swedish  Academy,  which  has  literary  contests  such  as 
we  have,  at  one  time  awarded  the  prize  for  poetry  to  the  author 
of  "Svenska  flottans  minnen"  without  knowing  to  whom  they 
were  giving  it.  When  the  envelope,  containing  the  competitor's 
name,  was  opened,  it  was  found  that  the  winner  of  the  prize 
was  the  King,  who,  worthy  to  be  ranked  among  his  country's 
most  prominent  speakers  and  poets,  received  this  reward  and 
could  entwine  the  green  laurel,  of  which  Roosand  speaks,  about 
the  noble  and  ancient  crown. 

But  His  Majesty  has  yet  a  claim  on  us  Frenchmen,  and  a 
greater  one  on  our  gratitude,  and  those  among  us  who  have 
admired  the  author  of  the  "Songs  to  the  Sea,"  know  that  the 
royal  poet  has  a  right  to  wear  one  of  the  insignias,  before  which 
all  people  bow,  for  they  only  recall  the  memory  of  goodness  and 
sacrifice.  One  day  in  Nizza  a  man  was  about  to  perish  in  a 
runaway.  The  frantic  horse  plunged  by  like  a  tragic  vision, 
meanwhile  the  air  resounded  with  cries  of  anguish  from  the 
unfortunate  driver.  In  a  few  moments  the  man  would  have  been 
crushed  to  death  on  the  pavement  when  a  passer-by  springs 
forward,  throws  his  tall  form  against  the  wild  animal,  seizes 
the  nostrils  with  a  powerful  hand,  stops  the  horse,  and  saves 
the  unfortunate  man.  His  one  desire,  this  passer-by,  was  to 
avoid  the  thanks  and  emotions  of  the  crowd.  But  with  us,  as 
here,  the  King  of  Sweden-Norway  is  known  and  loved,  and  one 
sees  the  badge  of  the  French  colors  on  the  breast  of  His  Majesty 
Oscar  H.,  because  this  is  given  to  the  brave  man  who  has  saved 
a  human  life. 

185 


The  noble  ruler  reigns  also  over  a  people  who  are  loyal, 
warm-hearted,  sympathetic  and  strong.  We  shall  never  forget 
the  cheers  coming  from  the  depths  of  their  hearts.  We  shall 
never  forget  the  stirring  and  soul-inspiring  words  of  His  Royal 
Highness,  the  Crown  Prince.  We  shall  carry  with  us  to  our 
native  land  the  memory  of  a  beautiful  dream,  short  as  the  one 
of  which  Mauritz  of  Sachsen  spoke,  and,  when,  in  a  few  months, 
the  Scandinavian  people  shall  celebrate  the  jubilee  of  His  Majesty 
Oscar  n.'s  peaceful  and  illustrious  reign,  then  it  will  behoove 
us,  who  have  seen  this  magnificent  display  of  art,  of  industry, 
of  diligence,  of  prosperity,  to  announce  what  honor  of  this  pro- 
gress and  of  the  intellectual  and  material  development  accrues 
to  the  King.  And  I,  with  all  respect  and  reverence,  in  the  name 
of  the  press,  drink  to  the  health  of  the  liberal,  just,  great  and 
fartherly  monarch;  in  the  name  of  literature,  to  the  health  of  a 
King,  at  the  same  time  a  poet  and  an  orator,  who  through  his 
fascinating  power  could  impress  those  whom  he  leads  with  his 
authority.  And,  in  conclusion,  allow  me  to  say,  with  the  recollec- 
tion that  it  is  one  of  the  privileges  of  the  French  Academy  to 
pay  homage,  which  is  given  to  virtue,  with  garlands,  becoming 
to  genius,  I  drink  to  the  health  of  the  King,  who,  to  all  the  titles 
that  he  bears,  has  added  the  highest  honor,  the  King,  who  wrote 
in  deeds  when  he  saved  human  life — the  ruler  who  has  best 
understood  the  duties  of  a  King:  to  love  his  people  and  serve 
humanity! 

All  hail  to  His  Majesty,  the  King  of  Sweden  and  Norway!" 

The  members  of  the  excursion  to  Dalarne  and  Norrland  be- 
came very  enthusiastic  over  their  trip.  Will  you  allow  me  to 
quote  what  some  of  them  said?     It  is  as  follows: — 

"What  shall  I  say  of  our  flight  to  Dalecarlia,  which  ends  to- 
day and  which  impresses  me  as  being  a  dream?  It  is  a  reverie, 
an  enchanting  journey  through  the  incredible.  Oh,  patriotism! 
Here  alone  can  one  properly  apprehend  it  and  feel  its  whole 
power  and  fascination.  Yesterday,  we  visited  an  old  church  by 
the  shores  of  a  lake,  whose  waters  seemed  as  clear  and  pure  as 
the  innocent  eyes  of  the  country's  beautiful  maidens.  The  organ 
was  ready  to  receive  us,  to  welcome  us  with  its  solemn  hymns. 
As  we  entered,  the  organist  sounded  the  deep  and  mellow  tones 
of  the  organ,  a  chorus  of  boys  and  girls  sang  hymns,  and  Luth- 
er's anthem  filled  the  room  with  sacred  melody.  We  were  but 
ten  tourists  in  the  church  where  six  thousand  people  assemble 

i86 


(by  sea)  from  surrounding  districts  to  attend  divine  service  on 
Sunday,  and,  as  I  sat  on  a  wooden  bench,  I  thought  of  these 
simple  souls,  who  gather  here,  build  and  live  here  among  neigh- 
bors in  their  red-painted  cottages.  Suddenly  the  organist  played 
a  Dalecarlian  song,  a  song  which  is  sung  by  this  honorable 
people  in  this  free  and  happy  country  which  never,  never  was 
conquered,  and  where  Gustavus  Adolphus,  Charles  XII.  and 
Gustavus  III.,  in  sore  straits,  always  found  their  most  faithful 
defenders,  their  most  law-abiding  subjects,  and  their  bravest 
soldiers. 

We  left  the  church  and  pursued  our  way  deeper  into  the 
forest.  Oh!  how  beautiful  is  the  pure  forest  after  a  rain,  with 
its  green  boughs,  the  balsamic  fragrance  of  the  grass,  the  flowers 
and  the  small  bells  of  linnaea,  which  are  so  rare,  so  tender,  and 
so  fragrant!  From  path  to  path,  we  came  through  the  dense 
wood  to  an  entirely  new  tower,  very  high  and  built  of  pinetrees 
which  rise  above  the  forest.  It  was  dedicated  yesterday  and 
in  the  tree  is  engraved  the  year,  1897.  We  went  up  and,  from  the 
height,  we  beheld  a  sea,  a  vast  sea  of  verdure,  which  extended  as 
far  as  eye  could  see  and  consisted  of  pines,  over  whose  tops  we 
now  stood  and  which  extended  into  infinity,  as  the  waves  of  the 
sea.  When  we  descended  we  found  a  whole  village  below. 
I  noted  down  these  impressions  and  surprises  as  we  passed.  It 
is  necessary  to  return  and  remain  for  some  time  if  one  is  to  get 
an  idea  of  Swedish  hospitality.  Is  it  necessary  for  me  to  paint 
the  feelings  I  experienced  when  I  at  times  saw  the  French  flag 
floating  almost  alone  beside  the  flag  of  Sweden?  It  also  seemed 
to  me  that  the  red  cottages,  the  white  clouds,  and  the  blue 
heavens,  formed  an  immense  tricolor  which  followed  us  con- 
stantly, and  soothingly  unfolded  itself  to  us." 

"Leksand  is  a  beautiful,  country-like  borough,  the  center  of  a 
parish,  containing  ten  thousand  inhabitants,  and  embracing  ten 
villages.  On  Sunday  the  people  go  to  church  in  large,  black, 
six  to  eight-oared  boats,  which  in  form  resemble  the  gondolas 
of  Venice.  The  holiday  dress  of  the  women  consists  of  an 
apron,  striped  with  bright  colors,  of  which  red,  green  and  white 
were  most  prominent,  a  bodice  and  a  cloth  of  red,  green  or 
blue,  enveloping  the  white  linen  with  short  sleeves,  a  high  cap 
of  black,  dotted  cloth  with  a  red  tassel  securely  fastened  on  the 
blonde  hair.  Thus  clad,  they  sit  in  the  poop  of  the  boat  with 
their  Bibles  and  hvmn-books  in  their  hands,  talking  and  chatting 

187 


over  diverse  subjects.  Before  them  sit  the  rowers,  strong  and 
powerful  men,  with  locks,  fair  as  the  ripening  grain  of  the  fields, 
with  blue  eyes  and  countenances  open  and  frank,  wearing  black 
felt  hats,  long  coats  which  fall  in  wide,  waving  folds  about  their 
forms,  red  vests,  knee  breeches  of  yellow  skins,  white  woolen 
stockings  and  strong  hob-nailed  shoes.  Several  of  these  boats 
could  be  seen  on  the  lake  as  we  arrived.  It  was  a  most  pleas- 
ing sight. 

The  whole  village  is  down  at  the  bridge.  The  wagons  await 
us.  Leksand's  aristocracy  step  into  the  wagons  with  us  and  we 
direct  our  way  to  the  church,  a  large  structure  without  style  and 
yet  picturesquely  located  in  a  verdant  elm  grove,  just  opposite 
the  spot  where  the  Dal  river,  which  we  cross  over  by  means  of  a 
solid  floating-bridge,  empties  out  of  the  lake.  By  the  side  of 
the  church  stands  the  belfry,  a  tall  and  massive  wooden  structure 
built  in  Russian  style  of  architecture,  now  entirely  blackened  by 
age. 

As  we  entered  the  church,  we  heard  the  beautiful  strains  of 
Mendelssohn's  "Wedding  March."  Thereupon  the  choir  sang 
one  of  Luther's  hymns.  The  beautiful  harmony  of  the  sacred 
melody  re-echoed  powerfully  under  the  arch  and  in  the  twi- 
light of  this  sacred  place.  An  uncontrollable  emotion  seized  us 
through  contact  with  this  sturdy  and  hearty  people,  who,  in 
order  to  honor  their  strange  guests,  welcomed  us  at  the  foot 
of  the  altar  in  the  house  of  God.  After  the  singing  of  the  hymn, 
the  melodious  tones  of  the  organ  could  again  be  heard  and  the 
melody  of  Dalecarlian  song  burst  forth  from  under  the  arch. 
Down  there  in  the  center  of  the  chorus,  with  hat  in  hand,  stands 
an  old,  yet  vigorous  man,  a  freeholder,  in  his  native  costume, 
singing  the  beloved  song  with  a  voice  pregnant  with  emotion. 
The  tears  steal  down  his  cheeks.  This  peasant  is  the  executive 
director  of  the  railroad  company  in  whose  care  we  were  trans- 
ported here  and  also  of  the  company  whose  boats  will  convey 
us  from  one  end  of  the  Siljan  lake  to  the  other.  The  old  man 
clasps  our  hands  vigorously,  and  we,  trembling  with  emotion, 
leave  this  sacred  shrine  where  hundreds  of  men  and  women  had 
invited  us  strangers,  to  commemorate  with  them  in  solemn 
prayer,  their  beautiful  and  illustrious  Fatherland. 

We  again  went  aboard  the  boats  and  leave  Leksand,  saluted 
at  our  departure  with  shouts  of  hurrah  by  these  great  and  noble 
people. 

i88 


It  is  now  evening,  the  clock  strikes  seven,  and  it  is  time  to 
partake  of  dinner.  It  is  served  to  us  on  deck.  The  sun,  which 
yet  shines  on  high  from  a  heaven  of  azure,  the  waves,  blue  as 
the  beautiful  maidens'  eyes,  who  hasten  down  to  greet  us  from 
the  strand,  the  appearance  of  the  lake,  which  spreads  its  vast  ex- 
panse between  the  pine  forests,  nay,  also  the  reaction  from  the 
stirring  scene  we  had  just  witnessed  in  Leksand;  loosened  our 
tongue's  fetters.  And  there  at  the  table  we  proposed  enthu- 
siastic toasts  to  free  Dalecarlia  and  its  people  in  the  German, 
French,  Hungarian,  English,  Swedish,  Italian,  Latin,  Finnish  and 
Dutch  languages.  We  disembarked  at  Mora  just  as  those  of 
us  who  desired  to  speak  in  Homer's  martial  language  were 
about  to  begin  our  remarks. 

Mora!  There  is  the  whole  community  gathered  in  groups 
on  the  bridge  to  see  and  receive  us.  A  choir,  consisting  of  pow- 
erful young  men,  sing  as  we  disembark.  Shouts  of  hurrah  echo 
and  re-echo  in  the  evening's  clear  air. 

About  a  twenty  minutes'  drive  from  the  hamlet  lies  Utme- 
land's  monument,  a  simple  chapel,  shaded  by  large  birch-trees. 
Here  is  the  holy  shrine  of  Dalecarlian  patriotism.  Here  it  is 
that  Gustavus  Vasa,  during  his  struggles  for  the  independence 
of  Sweden  four  hundred  years  ago,  hid  himself  for  eight  days 
crouched  in  a  cellar,  during  the  Danish  persecution. 

There  is  the  cellar  in  the  center  of  the  monument;  it  has  not 
been  changed  in  the  least.  The  whole  population  of  Mora  fol- 
lowed us  on  our  pilgrimage.  We  station  ourselves  about  the 
cellar  door  and  one  of  us  utters  the  following  words:  Said  he, 
"We  owe  an  especial  testimony  of  veneration  to  the  undimmed 
glory  which  fills  this  renowned  spot,  where  a  great  nation's  liberty 
first  sprouted  and  where  a  powerful  people's  liberties  first  took 
root.  It  shows  how  will-power  and  the  spirit  of  self-sacrifice 
alone  can  for  ages  found  and  shape  traditions  of  patriotism  and 
fidelity  through  generations." 

The  hour  has  come  when  we  must  resume  our  journey.  It 
is  almost  ten  o'clock  and  we  have  a  voyage  of  twenty  kilometers 
before  we  arrive  at  our  night  lodgings. 

Night — that  is  hardly  the  right  word.  There  is  no  night  in 
this  land.  The  sun  has  set  but  the  whole  heavens  are  lighted 
up  with  flames.  One  would  almost  think  that  they  are  the  im- 
mense flames  of  a  fire  which  roars  in  the  enormous  forests  some- 
where beneath  the  horizon.    It  is  a  sea  of  fire  with  reflections  of 

189 


purple  and  gold  of  rare  intensity  and  under  this  strange,  shim- 
mering cupola,  rests  the  lake  like  a  shining  mass  of  pale  gold  in 
which  the  motion  of  the  propeller  leaves  a  wake  of  gleaming 
sparks,  which  dance  a  magic  saraband  on  the  floating  surface. 

This  Northern  evening  is  one  of  singular  and  impressive 
beauty.  Its  lasts  for  hours  during  a  lingering,  fading  of 
colors,  until  a  light,  soft  veil,  mystic  as  a  dream,  sinks  down  over 
this  grandeur,  whose  broad  and  calm  contour  melts  away  in 
the  distant  horizon  and  directs  our  enraptured  glances  upward 
to  the  infinite  heaven.  Again  the  light  returns  almost  unnoticed 
and  beams  forth  gently,  this  time  silvered.  The  lake,  white  as 
molten  lead,  on  whose  surface  are  delineated  large  spots  of 
pale  gold,  caused  by  immense  rafts  which  the  river's  swift  cur- 
rent shall  carry  to  the  sea,  is  ruffled  by  the  morning  breeze  and 
remains  like  mother  of  pearl  in  the  silver  and  rose-colored  reflec- 
tions. The  wake  leaves  a  furrow  of  silver  in  the  waves  of  blue 
and  on  the  shore  the  woods  delineate  black,  pointed  capes  against 
the  opal-colored  blue  of  the  heavens.  It  is  the  dawn  of  morn- 
ing which  appears,  a  dawning  clear  and  pure  as  the  looks  of  a 
child. 

And,  as  we  sit,  there,  astounded,  admiring  such  magnificence, 
buried  in  a  devotional  contemplation  of  beauty,  so  serene  and 
delightful  during  this  summer  night  as  clear  as  crystal,  the 
young  men,  who  had  accompanied  us  from  Mora  and  who  had 
entertained  us  with  their  beautiful  melancholy  Dalecarlian  songs, 
arose,  took  ofif  their  hats,  and  on  the  deck  sang  with  power  the 
prayer  of  Gustavus  Adolphus  before  battle,  which  is  no  other 
than  Luther's  hymn:  "A  mighty  fortress  is  our  God."  We  all 
arose  and  those  of  us  who  were  of  Teutonic  descent  or  of  the 
Protestant  religion  recognized  the  beautiful  song  and  joined  our 
voices  with  those  of  the  young  Swedes. 

What  a  solemn,  blessed  moment!  Never  shall  they,  who 
were  on  board  forget  this  morning  hour  on  the  large  Lake  Sil- 
jan's  silvery  waves." 

That  was  very  well  said,  indeed.  It  gives  joy  to  every  Swed- 
ish heart. 

Now  I  beg  to  introduce  some  very  interesting  and  suggestive 
words,  spoken  by  the  chairman  at  the  very  opening  of  the  con- 
gress in  the  Hall  of  the  House  of  Nobles.     They  read  as  follows: 

"We  have  as  yet  hardly  done  more  than  to  indicate  our  wish 
and  determination  to  exist.     But  our  short  past,  nevertheless, 

190 


allows  us  already  now  to  hope  that  the  day  shall  come  when 
we,  in  the  social  struggles  which  the  twentieth  century  must 
fight,  shall  be  able  to  exercise  an  influence  in  the  world  as  the 
champions  of  liberty,  justice  and  conservatism.  Divided,  as  we 
have  hitherto  been,  we  have  too  often  been  compelled  to  act  as 
mouthpieces  for  ideas  and  movements  which  have  been  orig- 
inated and  led  by  others.  We  shall  now  have  the  great  honor  of 
being  the  most  powerful  promoters  of  universal  peace;  an  in- 
evitable necessity  for  the  happiness  and  advancement  of  the 
people." 

Grand  words!  How  different  from  some  nonsense,  uttered 
by  Americans  of  high  station  even  in  this  year  of  the  Lord,  1897. 

Now  our  steamer,  although  somewhat  belated,  has  almost 
reached  Sundsvall.  The  journalists  and  their  manager,  Editor 
Peterson,  are  all  on  deck.  See  that  little  steamer.  It  is  headed 
for  us.  Yes,  that  is  the  welcome  of  the  Press  Club  of  Sundsvall 
to  the  journalists.  The  band  plays,  hats  are  lifted,  greetings 
are  exchanged.  At  the  landing  a  great  concourse  of  people  had 
assembled,  but  no  one  had  sense  enough  to  raise  a  cheer  for  the 
newspaper  visitors.  The  Daily,  however,  contained  the  follow- 
ing welcome: — 

To  The  Strangers. 

"It  is  wdth  mingled  feelings  of  joy  and  pride  that  we  in  this 
manner  tender  you  our  first  greetings,  as  you  this  day  set  foot — 
the  most  of  you  very  probably,  for  the  first  time — on  the  soil 
of  'Norrland.'  We  do  this  so  much  more  willingly  from  the 
fact  that  we  recognize  and  appreciate  your  arrival  as  an  evidence 
of  the  peaceful  feelings  and  fraternal  spirit  existing  between  our 
people  and  yours. 

Our  nation  has  had  the  inestimable  fortune  of  enjoying  the 
blessings  of  peace,  unbroken  for  more  than  eighty  years,  and  we 
have,  as  you  during  your  visit  at  our  capital  have  had  oppor- 
tunity of  noticing,  made  use  of  this  peace,  as  well  as  possible, 
for  both  intellectual  and  material  development. 

For  this  advancement,  we  are  indebted  indirectly  to  the  peace- 
ful inclinations  of  your  peoples  and  nations.  We  have  received 
from  you  valuable  gifts  for  our  spiritual  culture,  for  our  art  and 
literature,  for  our  industry  and  trade,  and,  as  far  as  we  have 
been  able,  we  have  tried  to  requite  these  kindnesses. 

In  return  for  the  ideas  and  knowledge,  which  your  immortal 

191 


artists  and  authors,  your  scientists  and  artificers  have  given  us, 
we  have  returned  to  you  the  products  of  our  forests,  ore  from 
our  mountains,  and  granite  from  our  quarries.  Presents  received 
and  reciprocated  have  cemented  the  feeHng  of  friendship  be- 
tween us. 

And,  now,  after  the  close  of  this  meeting,  as  you  go  into  the 
heart  of  Sweden  to  learn,  through  experience,  of  our  people's 
habits  and  customs,  of  our  country's  condition  and  of  her  beau- 
tiful scenery,  we  bid  you  welcome,  a  hearty  welcome  to  the  land 
of  iron  and  of  forestry,  to  the  wonderful  dreamland  of  the  mid- 
night sun  and  to  the  glory  of  our  northern  light! 

We  hope  that  from  this  voyage  you  may  carry  home  many 
pleasant  memories  and  we  assure  you  that  we  will  always  cherish 
the  memory  of  your  visit  to  us. 

Knowing  this,  we  bid  you  a  sincere  and  hearty 

Welcome." 

We  continue  our  trip  for  three  hours  to  Hernosand,  the 
capital  of  the  diocese  and  province,  the  home  of  the  bishop  and 
governor,  etc.  Our  boat  was  three  hours  late,  but  two  dear 
friends  stood  at  the  landing  in  spite  of  it  all  to  welcome  us. 
Many  thanks,  dear  brother  and  sister! 


192 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

"The  Meeting  of  the  Diocese  of  Hernosand." 

It  was  a  beautiful  afternoon  in  June,  and  seven  years  since 
mj!  previous  visit.  Hernosand  was  like  itself,  but  here  as  every- 
where else  were  many  signs  of  continued  growth  and  improve- 
meat. 

We  were  taken  to  the  Episcopal  residence  at  once,  escorted 
by  two  members  of  the  family.  Our  rooms  were  very  pleasant 
and  the  thoughtfulness  of  loving  hands  was  evidenced  by  many 
of  the  arrangements. 

There  is  nothing  greater  than  love,  because  there  is  nothino^ 
greater  than  God,  and  He  is  love.  Oh,  that  this  comprehensive, 
all-including  commandment  of  the  blessed  New  Testament  era 
were  more  heeded  in  our  own  new  and  great  world,  whose  chief 
temptation  is  selfishness,  cold  and  unfeeling  selfishness.  Every 
touch  of  love,  every  token  of  true  friendship  is  like  a  brilliant  star 
upon  the  sky  of  night.  God  be  blessed  for  them  all.  They  orig- 
inate with  Him,  they  lead  back  to  Him.  In  our  "Swedish- 
home"  they  were  so  plentiful,  so  common,  that  our  visit  seemed 
but  a  prolonged  dream. 

The  ministers  of  the  diocese,  the  most  extensive  in  Sweden, 
were  assembled,  not  in  annual  session,  but  in  a  seventh-year  ses- 
sion. The  next  previous  meeting  was  held  seven  years  earlier. 
I  had  the  pleasure  and  privilege  of  being  present  and  talking 
that  time,  also.  Now  the  ministers  and  their  ladies  and  other 
guests  were  enjoying  a  course  dinner  in  the  spacious  rooms  of 
the  second  story.  The  program  or  menu  was  half  completed  on 
our  arrival,  but  the  reverend  bishop  and  his  kind-hearted,  sweet- 
tempered,  hospitable  wife  came  to  our  rooms  and  welcomed  us 
so  sincerely  and  heartily,  that  we  can  never  forget  it.  The 
same  was  true  of  their  children. 

195 


To  me  the  bishop  said:  "Carl,  you  must  come  with  me 
at  once  into  the  dining-room."  I  obeyed.  In  a  moment  I 
was  in  the  midst  of  a  couple  of  hundreds  of  distinguished  guests. 
The  bishop  requested  silence,  and  spoke  a  hearty  welcome  to  all 
the  "hospites"  (special  guests).  In  speaking  of  your  humble 
servant,  the  host,  who  is  of  very  small  stature,  said,  with  a  kind, 
humorous  smile  on  his  beaming  face:  "And  now  I  have  the 
pleasure  of  welcoming  and  introducing  my  big  relative  from 
America,  who  has  just  arrived."  I  stood  -there,  over  six  feet 
tall,  and  felt  quite  embarrassed  for  a  moment.  The  bishop's  smile 
was  contagious:  they  all  joined  in  it,  and  I  did  the  same,  and 
after  the  response  by  the  senior  "hospites,"  there  were  many 
hand-shakings  and  kind  expressions  on  the  part  of  my  respected 
and  dear  brethren  of  seven  years  ago. 

The  dinner  was  served  according  to  the  fashion  of  a  "Walk- 
ing table."  This  is  a  most  splendid  and  practical  arrangement 
and  merits  being  copied  .in  our  country.  At  one  college  and  in 
one  large  Swedish  community  it  has  been  used  for  several  years, 
and  with  much  satisfaction. 

The  eatables,  knives,  forks,  etc.,  are  placed  on  a  large  center 
table.  According  to  age,  station  and  the  rules  of  prevailing  eti- 
quette the  guests  now  helped  themselves,  after  the  blessing  had 
been  asked. by  the  host.  Then  there  are  numerous  small  tables 
everywhere,  and  of  these  you  and  a  couple  of  friends  chose  one, or 
you  may  prefer  to  eat  standing,  walking,  chatting.  At  proper 
intervals  the  speech-making  is  sandwiched  into  the  program 
according  to  the  rules  of  an  etiquette  with  which  all  guests  pres- 
ent are  supposed  to  be  fully  acquainted. 

This  custom  and  arrangement  makes  a  big  dinner  a  thing  of 
pleasure  instead  of  the  opposite.  It  gives  the  charm  of  ease, 
liberty,  and  change  to  the  guests.  Time  flies  merrily  on,  and 
before  you  realize  it,  two  or  three  hours  have  been  consumed. 

On  the  last  day  of  this  seventh-year  session,  the  members  of 
the  convention,  according  to  time-honored  custom,  invite  the 
bishop  and  his  family,  together  with  the  special  guests  present,  to 
a  dinner.  The  host  or  hosts  are  chosen  from  among  the  oldest 
and  most  honored  members  of  the  ministry.  There  were  four 
hosts  at  the  dinner  next  day,  to  which  we  were  invited.  Cards 
by  the  plates  showed  where  every  one  was  to  be  seated.  The 
hosts  and  others  gave  the  special  guests  all  necessary  informa- 
tion beforehand.     Oh,  how  kind  they  were  to  us  American  Luth- 

196 


erans.  The  impression  made  by  that  fraternal  courtesy  and  love 
will  never  be  obliterated.  My  wife  was  assigned  the  place  to  the 
left  of  the  bishop.  My  place  was  directly  opposite  the  bishop, 
and  to  the  right  of  the  most  honorable  member  in  the  ministerial 
family  of  the  great  diocese.     This  time  we  had  no  walking  table. 

I  felt  nervous;  the  bishop  and  one  of  the  hosts  had  informed 
me  that  to-day  I  was  expected  to  respond  to  a  toast.  Yes,  I 
had  done  that  before,  many  a  time,  but  these  surroundings  were 
so  new  and  novel,  I  had  arrived  so  lately,  and  in  all  felt  so 
insignificant  as  compared  with  all  kindness  and  respect  showered 
upon  us. 

My  toast  was:  the  Swedish-Lutheran  woman,  our  mother 
and  wife,  our  sister  and  daughter.  It  was  a  splendid  subject. 
It  helped  me,  warmed  me,  saved  me. 

But  it  is  time  that  I  should  tell  you  something  of  the  con- 
vention itself.     Here  is  the  program : 

June  30th. 

7:45  a.  m.  The  members  assembled  in  the  rooms  of  the  con- 
vention. 

8:00  a.  m.  Full  morning  service  in  the  Cathedral.  Sermon 
by  the  Rev.  Dean  P.  O.  Grape  of  Neder  Tornea. 

11:30  a.  m.  The  bishop  opens  the  convention  and  reads  a 
paper  upon  the  subject:  "The  conditions  for  the  effects  of  Holy 
Baptism  as  a  means  of  grace." 

After  the  reading  of  this  paper,  there  will  be  a  discussion, 
based  upon  the  essay  or  thesis  of  the  president  of  the  meeting, 
the  Rev.  L.  U.  F.  Oberg  of  Vannas,  upon  the  subject:  "Christ 
as  High  Priest,  according  to  the  Hebrews,"  the  discussion  will 
be  continued  until  2:30  p.  m. 

6:00  p.  m.  The  orator  of  the  session,  Prof.  G.  F.  T.  Tornvall, 
Ph.  D.,  will  speak  upon  the  subject:     "Faith  and  Knowledge." 

July  I  St. 

8:00  a.  m.  Morning  service  in  the  Cathedral.  Sermon  by  the 
Rev.  Dean  A.  H.  Sandstrom  of  Bygdea. 

11:30-2:30.  The  discussion  of  yesterday  continued  and  con- 
cluded. The  bishop  will  read  the  first  part  of  his  official  report. 
If  time  permits  the  motions  of  the  Executive  Committee  will  be 
discussed. 

6:00  p.  m.  Memorial  address  by  the  Rev.  K.  L.  Ostman  of 

Sabra. 

197 


July  2nd. 

8:00  a.  m.  Morning  service  in  the  Cathedral.  Sermon  by 
Rev.  O.  K.  Hellsen  of  Selanger. 

ii:30-2-:30.  Conclusion  of  the  official  report  of  the  bishop. 
Discussion  of  the  motions  of  the  Executive  Committee. 

6:00  p.  m.  Continuation  of  the  above  discussion.   Conclusion. 

We  heard  good  reports  of  the  apologetic  lecture  on  Faith  and 
Knowledge  on  the  first  evening  by  Professor  and  Doctor  Torn- 
vall.  You  will  all  be  interested  in  reading  it.  We  will  give  you 
a  synopsis  of  it.     The  doctor  said  in  substance: — 

"It  is  an  old  subject,  but  one  which  has  at  all  times  pos- 
sessed an  unusual  interest,  not  least  in  our  own  time,  and  it  is 
of  the  highest  importance  to  our  whole  race  as  well  as  to  the 
individual,  to  obtain  a  clear  conception  of  its  meaning.  The 
questions  touch  man's  most  vital  interests  and,  with  all  reason, 
it  can  be  said  that  on  these  two,  faith  and  knowledge,  depends 
the  possibility  of  our  race  to  reach  perfection.  Therefore,  it  is  of 
the  utmost  importance  that  each  one  obtains  his  proper  position 
and  that  he  stands  in  the  proper  relation  to  others."  The  speaker 
did  not  pretend  to  present  new  and  original  speculations,  nor  did 
he  claim  that  he  would  exhaust  the  subject.  He  wished  rather  to 
give  clearness  in  a  practical  manner  to  separate  pertinent  ques- 
tions and  take  into  consideration  the  substance,  means,  certainty 
and  meaning  of  Christian  faith  and  general  human  knowledge. 

"What  is  faith  in  the  Christian  meaning?"  The  speaker  con- 
fined himself  to  the  answer  found  in  the  epistle  to  the  Hebrews: 
"Faith  is  the  substance  of  things  hoped  for,  the  evidence  of 
things  not  seen."  In  these  words  both  the  theoretical  and  the 
practical  side  of  faith  is  given.  In  a  practical  sense,  faith  is  out 
of  the  jurisdiction  of  knowledge,  but  theoretically  it  is  united 
with  it.  Faith  is  a  union  or  communion  of  the  heart  with  God, 
and  a  comprehension  of  things  not  seen.  Man  belongs  not  only 
to  the  visible  world,  but  also  to  the  invisible.  In  spite  of  per- 
severing attempts  no  one  could  escape  the  impression  exercised 
by  the  invisible  world. 

The  substance  and  object  of  Christian  faith  is  God,  and  He, 
whom  He  sent,  Jesus  Christ,  and  with  Him  the  revelation  of 
the  being  of  God,  Christ  also  solved  the  practical  necessity  of 
reconciling  us  with  God. 

Man  will  never  arrive  at  true  faith  through  the  work  of  rea- 
son and  scientific  efforts.     "Blessed  are  they  that  have  not  seen 

198 


and  yet  have  believed."  Faith  is  not  a  certainty  to  be  won 
by  investigation,  but  an  affair  of  the  heart,  a  free  devotional  love 
for  God.  As  soon  as  faith  is  made  exclusively  an  affair  of  the 
understanding,  love  dies  in  ashes.  It  was  thus  with  the  scholas- 
ticism of  Mediaeval  ages;  it  will  be  thus  with  some  of  the  strict 
orthodoxy  of  modern  times. 

Personal  experience  is  the  only  way  to  faith,  although  a  cer- 
tain theoretical  knowledge  is  presupposed.  The  question  of 
faith's  assurance  depends  on  its  beginning.  It  comes  through 
the  inner  consciousness.  Christ  was  certain  of  his  sending,  like- 
wise the  apostles;  Luther  was  certain  of  his  faith  and  was  influ- 
enced thereby  to  found  a  church  which  believed  in  the  possi- 
bility of  faith  assurance.  This  subjective  side  in  the  increase 
of  faith,  this  feeling  of  certainty,  is  separated  from  the  mystic, 
romantic  tendency  which  occasionally  reveals  itself.  A  strong 
subjective  tendency  is  found  in  the  Lutheran  church  relative  to 
the  assurance  of  faith  and  the  freedom  of  conscience,  but  this 
tendency  may  be  accompanied  by  grave  dangers,  as  our  times 
have  shown. 

In  order  to  come  into  proper  relationship  with  Christ,  I 
must  know  something  about  Him  as  an  historical  person;  that 
is  the  objective  side  of  faith.  Here  exists  a  union  between  faith 
and  knowledge  so  that  the  latter  becomes  the  foundation  for  the 
development  of  the  former.  The  inner  experience  is  not  alone 
of  importance  to  the  assurance  of  faith,  but  also  a  clear  concep- 
tion and  retention  of  its  substance.  For  this  reason,  confessions 
of  faith  had  been  formulated. 

The  speaker  then  came  to  a  consideration  of  the  second  di- 
vision of  his  subject,  knowledge,  and  touched  upon  its  nature, 
substance,  means,  and  certainty.  Knowledge  is  the  understand- 
ing of  something,  but  with  the  pretension  that  it  comprehends  its 
object  with  general  validity.  Knowledge  could  occupy  itself  with 
the  visible  world;  empirical  knowledge,  supported  by  experiment; 
it  could  occupy  itself  with  the  invisible:  rational  knowledge  which 
deduces  its  substance  from  the  conclusions  of  reason.  But  knowl- 
edge is  limited  both  in  extension  and  intension,  moreover  it  is 
abstract  in  opposition  to  our  visible  perceptions,  so  that  it  loses 
in  inner  wealth  as  it  gains  in  outer  compass.  Knowledge  is  still 
man's  mark  of  nobility,  even  though  it  is  only  one  side  of  our 
spiritual  life,  and  it  would  be  hazardous  to  tear  the  work  of  the 
intellect  away  from  that  of  the  heart,  the  conscience,  and  the 

199 


will.  Thereby  man  would  be  led  upon  by-paths  and  have  his 
inner  life  destroyed.  Knowledge  has  had  its  time  of  being  over- 
rated, as  during  the  period  of  "Enlightenment,"  but  also  later 
when  it  led  to  the  worship  of  self.  If  left  to  itself,  knowledge  would 
lead  to  a  separation  from  God.  Conscience  must  be  the  original 
point  of  union  between  man  and  God. 

The  history  of  philosophy  shows  great  failure,  when,  after 
the  expiration  of  thousands  of  years,  it  must  be  said,  that  all 
efiforts  are  in  vain,  from  the  fact  that  knowledge  has  a  limit 
beyond  which  it  cannot  pass.  In  our  time  the  empirical  investi- 
gation claims  to  sit  in  the  place  of  honor.  It  comes  in  contact, 
if  not  in  conflict  with  the  Christian  faith.  The  natural  province 
of  faith  is  certainly  the  supernatural  world,  but  it  may  also  have 
as  its  object  the  visible,  so  that  knowledge  and  faith  come  in 
touch  with  each  other.  But  faith  and  knowledge  have  different 
aims  which  causes  a  seeming  opposition.  Faith  wishes  to  satisfy 
our  spiritual  needs,  empirical  knowledge,  the  desires  of  sense. 
As  far  as  the  advancement  of  the  world  is  concerned,  empirical 
knowledge  can  settle  nothing  concerning  being  itself,  but  very 
much  concerning  the  world's  development,  changes,  etc. 

Faith  and  knowledge  differ  not  only  in  degree,  so  that  faith 
would  be  considered  uncertain,  while  knowledge  would  be  plain 
and  incontrovertible,  and  therefore  the  supplement  of  faith.  Faith 
is  not  only  a  theoretical  position  and  belief,  but  it  is  a  living  com- 
munion with  God.  True  men  of  science  have  also  been  believers 
and  have  acknowledged,  that  knowledge  recurs  to  premises  which 
themselves  cannot  be  proven.  But  every  age  of  great  inven- 
tions and  discoveries  has  been  accompanied  by  a  contempt  of 
faith;  so  also  in  our  time,  which  has  taken  such  giant  strides 
with  respect  to  the  conquering  of  the  powers  of  nature.  From 
this  has  followed  over-estimation  and  pride,  accompanying  the 
old  question:     "Who  is  Christ,  whose  voice  I  shall  hear?" 

Our  age  is  in  a  special  sense  an  age  of  unbelief.  The  blame 
lies  not  alone  with  the  men  of  knowledge,  but  also  with  the  men 
of  faith,  who  have  made  a  mistake  in  not  properly  respecting 
science,  even  when  it  has  been  in  the  right.  May  science  not 
be  refused  to  produce  as  many  results  as  it,  on  its  own  premises, 
will  find  possible?  The  seeming  antagonism  between  faith  and 
knowledge  depends  on  the  fact  that  their  bounds  are  not  dis- 
cerned. 

What  portion  should  the  defenders  of  faith  occupy  in  this 

200 


struggle?  They  must  not  stand  by  indifferent,  when  opposition 
is  to  be  met  in  part  from  without  and  in  part  from  within.  First 
of  all,  their  own  faith  should  be  revealed  in  their  lives,  so  that 
the  truth,  in  which  they  believe,  becomes  a  reality.  It  was  not 
the  arguments  of  the  first  Christians,  but  it  was  their  lives  that 
seized  and  converted  their  persecutors.  Now  one  often  hears  of 
faith,  but  less  often  sees  it. 

The  speaker  continued  concerning  the  necessity  of  humility  in 
the  believer,  and  how  he  should  try  to  convert  opponents.  One 
often  heard  such  men  say  that  they  would  willingly  embrace 
the  faith  of  Christianity  if  their  reason  did  not  make  such  objec- 
tions. This  excuse  leads  one  astray,  for  it  is  not  the  under- 
standing, but  the  will  which  decides  in  such  a  case.  Knowledge 
ends  where  the  province  of  faith  begins.  The  obstacles  to  faith 
are  not  of  a  theoretical,  but  of  a  practical  nature.  Heathendom 
began  not  with  a  theoretical,  but  a  practical  deviation  from  God, 
modern  heathens  do  likewise. 

In  conclusion,  it  was  maintained,  that  there  is  much  in  which 
neither  faith  nor  knowledge,  but  alone  a  contemplation  of  eternity 
can  give  clearness. 

The  official  seven-year  report  of  the  bishop  was  a  very  inter- 
esting document.     It  was  listened  to  with  wrapt  attention. 

Americans  in  general  will  no  doubt  be  interested  in  looking 
over  a  synopsis  of  the  report.  It  will  help  to  give  us  a  correct 
idea  of  church  and  religious  conditions  in  more  than  one-half  of 
the  area  of  Sweden.  The  kind  reader  will  bear  m  mind  that  this 
document  speaks  of  the  population  in  Norrland  as  a  whole,  and 
not  only  of  that  part  of  the  people,  which  we  in  America  would 
call  "religious."  The  bishop's  report,  condensed,  was  as  fol- 
lows : — 

The  Bishop's  Official  Report. 

In  the  first  place  a  report  was  given  concerning  the  condi- 
tion of  the  congregations  belonging  to  the  diocese  of  Hernosand. 
At  the  last  meeting,  the  bishop  had  pointed  out  two  difficulties 
with  which  he  had  to  contend:  (i)  the  extensiveness  of  the  dio- 
cese, which  made  it  hard  to  express  any  general  judgment  over 
the  whole  of  it;  (2)  that  he  as  a  newcomer  did  not  yet  have 
much  experience  as  to  the  condition  of  the  diocese.  The  first 
difficulty  still  remained,  because  all  attemps  to  have  the  diocese 
divided  had  been  unsuccessful.  Therefore  a  difference  must  be 
made  between  different  parts  of  the  diocese.     The  second  diffi- 

201 


culty  had  been  diminished;  as  he  had  gained  more  knowledge, 
but  the  extensiveness  of  the  diocese  made  this  knowledge  incom- 
plete, and  therefore  it  must  be  augmented  by  the  reports  that 
had  been  sent  in. 

<>^  The  ministerial  work  of  the  church,  the  means  for  perform- 
ing the  same,  in  the  first  place  the  ministry.  Here  this  ques- 
tion ought  to  be  answered:  Is  the  present  force  strong  enough 
for  the  ministerial  work  of  the  diocese,  or  in  other  words,  have 
we  enough  of  pastors?  There  was  not  a  superabundance  of 
pastors,  nor  yet  any  felt  want  of  them,  as  during  the  last  few 
years  a  greater  number  of  the  young  men  of  the  diocese  had 
chosen  the  ministerial  calling,  than  had  been  the  case  in  former 
years.  Besides  this  about  twenty  candidates  for  the  ministry 
from  other  diocese  had,  since  the  last  synod,  joined  the  diocese 
of  Hernosand.  Still  the  consistory  could  have  made  use  of 
more,  and  it  was  requested  that  each  one  should  do  his  part, 
that  talented  young  men  might  pursue  the  study  of  theology  and 
receive  financial  aid  for  this  purpose. 

In  another  sense  it  could  also  be  said  that  the  diocese  suf- 
fered from  a  manifest  and  felt  want  of  pastors.  Many  parts  of 
the  diocese  receive  too  little  attention,  as  the  population  is  scat- 
tered over  such  a  large  area  (the  diocese  of  Hernosand  is 
larger  than  all  the  others  combined).  So  little  attention 
has  been  paid  to  this  requirement  that  nov/  no  other  dio- 
cese has  so  large  a  population  in  proportion  to  the  num- 
ber of  pastors.  Each  resident  pastor  has  the  care  of  3,000 
souls  scattered  over  a  territory  of  68  square  miles.  To  be  sure, 
a  part  of  this  territory  consists  of  barren  mountain  regions,  but 
nevertheless  even  in  these  places,  dwellings  are  found  here  and 
there.  In  looking  over  the  dififerent  congregations,  it  is  found 
that  in  57  of  113  pastorates  at  least  one  new  pastor  is  necessary, 
ii"  the  spiritual  need  shall  be  properly  cared  for.  There  is  not 
a  congregation  in  the  whole  diocese  where  the  ministerial  force 
can  be  reduced.  Here  is  a  crying  need  that  becomes  greater 
with  the  rapidly  increasing  population.  Seven  years  ago  the 
number  of  inhabitants  was  526,000,  but  now  it  reaches  578,711, 
an  increase  of  50,000. 

What  shall  be  done?  (i)  We  and  our  congregations  ought 
to  pray  earnestly  that  the  Lord  may  send  reapers  for  the  abund- 
ant harvest;  (2)  we  ought  to  make  the  need  of  bettering  this  con- 
dition known  as  widely  as  possible  and  do  something  for  it; 

202 


STOCKHOLM   MONUMENTS  :      1.      CHARLES   XIL      2.      CHARLES  XIII. 
3.      MOLIN'S  FOUNTAIN.      4.      GUSTAVUS  VASA.      0.      EARL  BIRGER. 


(3)  we  should  try  to  obtain  aid   from  the  pubHc  funds,  for  the 
purpose  of  paying  more  pastors. 

Church  councils.  The  significance  of  this  institution  de- 
pended upon  its  composition  and  work.  Only  in  a  few  congrega- 
tions was  there  any  complaint  as  to  the  fitness  of  those  elected 
to  the  church  councils.  In  very  many  congregations  wise  selec- 
tions had  been  made.  The  work  of  the  church  councils  was 
different  in  different  regions;  in  some  places  it  was  not  carried 
on  in  the  proper  manner;  in  other  regions  it  treated  economic 
questions,  but  in  many  congregations  the  church  councils  went 
farther  and  was  of  great  assistance  to  the  ministry.  As  a  proof 
of  this  several  reports  w-ere  read. 

As  to  the  question  whether  and  in  what  manner  other  laymen 
assist  the  pastor  in  his  work,  the  answers  showed  that  in  several 
congregations  the  ministers  were  strongly  supported  by  the  lay- 
men and  to  a  certain  extent  assisted  by  them  in  the  performance 
of  certain  duties,  as  visiting  the  sick  and  taking  part  in  devo- 
tional meetings,  even  societies  existed  that  together  with  the 
pastor  performed  works  of  charity,  a  few  men  who  assisted  in 
such  work  w^ere  also  found  among  the  employers  of  labor. 

Regarding  the  different  kinds  of  work  we  shall  first  speak  of 
the  divine  services.  Public  worship  has  been  conducted  every- 
where, Lapland  not  excepted.  Still  a  few  congregations,  espe- 
cially in  Jamtland,  could  not  have  services  every  Sunday  on  ac- 
count of  a  lack  of  pastors.  Storsjo  congregation  suffered  the 
most,  having  only  four  services  each  year.  During  the  Lenten 
season  sermons  upon  the  sufferings  and  death  of  Christ  have 
been  preached,  except  in  a  few  Finnish  congregations,  some- 
times on  Sundays  and  sometimes  during  the  week.  Mission  ser- 
mons are  often  preached  in  various  parts  of  the  diocese,  Bible 
studies  are  conducted,  sometimes  in  the  churches,  but  mostly 
in  the  houses.  Other  week  services  are  of  rare  occurrence.  It 
would  be  desirable  if  all  the  meetings  were  held  in  the  churches. 

Communion  services.  There  is  a  great  difference  in  the  num- 
ber of  times  the  several  churches  have  partaken  of  the  Lord's 
Supper  each  year.  Of  two  parishes  in  northern  x^ngermanland, 
having  an  equal  population,  the  one  had  communion  6,  the  other 
12,  times  a  year;  in  Sorsele  communion  services  have  been  held 
13  to  14  times  yearly.  No  exact  average  can  be  given,  but  6 
times  a  year  in  a  parish  of  6,000  inhabitants  is  conceded  to  be 
less  than  the  average. 

207 


The  examination  for  communion  is  not  observed  as  generally 
as  hitherto,  not  being  required  by  law  any  more,  still  it  had  its  sig- 
nificance, as  being  more  personal  than  the  general  confession, 

Catechisations,  which  are  ordained  by  law,  have  been  held 
everywhere  except  in  two  city  congregations  and  a  few  churches 
in  the  country.     In  many  places  they  are  regarded  as  festivals. 

Pastoral  visits  to  the  sick.  These  are  common  in  West 
Bothnia  and  Angermanland,  and  are  becoming  more  frequent  in 
other  places.  Towards  the  south  they  are  less  numerous;  this 
is  also  the  case  among  the  Finnish  congregations.  The  pastor 
should  visit  the  sick  without  being  asked  to  do  so. 

Ministerial  ceremonies  were  often  performed  in  the  houses 
although  the  church  is  the  proper  place.  In  Angermanland  and 
Jamtland  baptism  is  usually  administered  in  the  churches,  in 
about  30  congregations  this  ceremony  is  performed  outside  of 
the  church.  In  some  places  marriages  never  take  place  in  the 
church,  in  others  always  in  the  church.  In  most  cases  the  mar- 
riage ceremony  is  performed  in  the  parsonage  or  at  the  home 
and  this,  strange  to  say,  is  even  true  of  the  otherwise  church- 
loving  Angermanland.  A  certain  bashfulness  seemes  to  be  the 
cause  of  this,  something  very  surprising,  as  a  marriage  ceremony 
is  nothing  to  be  bashful  about,  if  no  other  reasons  are  to  be 
found.  Churchings  took  place  sometimes  in  the  church,  some- 
times out  of  it.  In  some  regions,  for  example  in  Stode  and 
Njurundan  in  Medelpad  this  ceremony  is  omitted  altogether. 
Baptism,  marriage  and  churchings  ought  to  take  place  in  the 
church.  The  principal  result  would  be,  that  the  churches  would 
learn  to  understand  that  these  ceremonies  belonged  to  the  con- 
gregations, and  the  people  would  receive  edification  therefrom. 

Catechumenical  instructions.  In  this  the  northern  and 
southern  part  of  the  diocese  differed  very  much.  It  is  true  that 
there  had  been  an  improvement  in  West  Bothnia  and  North 
Bothnia,  but  the  time  spent  in  instructing  has  been  too  brief, 
especially  where  education  is  lacking.  59  days  is  about  the  aver- 
age time  in  xA.ngermanland  and  Jamtland.  A  longer  time  than 
this  has  often  been  objected  to  by  the  parents,  who  do  not  wish 
to  spare  their  children  for  so  long  a  time  and  pay  for  their  board 
and  lodging. 

Church  discipline.  It  is  often  complained  that  there  is  a  lack 
of  discipline  in  the  Swedish  church.  The  spirit  of  the  times 
seems    to    be    against   it,  and  the  lax  laws  do  their  part.     Still 

208 


discipline  is  not  a  thing  of  the  past,  at  least  not  in  this  diocese. 
Pastors  and  members  of  the  church  councils  often  interfere  with 
warnings  and  exhortations.  The  offences  where  interposition 
must  be  made  are  chiefly,  neglect  in  the  bringing  up  of  children, 
discord  in  wedlock,  unchastity,  concubinage  and  drunkenness. 
It  is  the  duty  of  the  pastor  to  warn  those  who  lead  immoral 
lives  to  refrain  from  partaking  of  the  Lord's  Supper.  If  the 
means  that  are  accessible  are  employed,  church  discipline  may 
be  exercised  even  in  these  days.  The  poorest  way  is  to  do 
nothing. 

The  spiritual  condition  of  the  church  members.  Here  their 
attitude  towards  the  means  of  grace  was  considered,  first  the 
w'ord.  Reverence  for  and  the  use  of  the  word  of  God  differs 
very  much  in  the  various  parts  of  the  diocese.  Some  reports 
state  that  the  scriptures  are  read  diligently  and  held  in  rever- 
ence, other  reports  state  the  opposite.  No  general  judgment 
can  be  pronounced,  but  it  is  certain  that  the  word  of  God  is 
reverenced  and  read  more  and  more. 

From  most  parts  of  the  diocese,  there  is  a  complaint  that  the 
word  is  heard  more  than  read,  especially  among  the  Finnish  con- 
gregations, where  not  all  can  read  and  a  lack  of  books  prevail. 
In  certain  parts  of  Jamtland  the  reading  of  the  Word  of  God  has 
been  laid  aside  and  newspapers  are  read  instead,  and  those  not 
of  the  best  kind. 

The  use  of  edifying  books  varies.  The  church-going  people 
read  Luther,  Arndt,  Scriver,  Rosenius,  Fjellstedt,  some  Nohr- 
borg,  Ahlberg,  Melin  and  other  authors.  Luther  is  read  most 
in  West  Bothnia,  but  also  the  songs  of  Zion  and  the  old  hymn 
book.  Those  who  entertain  more  liberal  religious  views  read 
Waldenstrom's  and  Ekman's  writings.  The  distribution  of 
books  throughout  the  diocese  is  very  large,  but  poorer  books 
and  newspapers  enter  with  the  good.  Means  have  been  pro- 
vided for  the  dissemination  of  suitable  literature.  The  National 
Bible  Society  assists  many  congregations  in  purchasing  Bibles. 
The  New  Testament  has  been  translated  into  the  language  of 
Lapland,  the  new  church  manual  into  Finnish,  besides  this  a 
new  hymn  book  and  prayer  book  are  in  preparation. 

Family  worship.  The  reports  of  the  pastors  are  not  satis- 
factory respecting  this.  Family  worship  is  unusual  even  where 
the  father  and  mother  use  the  word  of  God.  Especially  is  this 
true  among  the  Finns,  less  so  in  Angermanland  and  West  Both- 

209 


nia.     One  condition  necessary  for  the  promotion  of  this  custom 
is  that  the  pastor  has  family  worship  himself. 

Baptism.  As  a  rule  all  the  children  are  baptized.  Of  course 
the  children  of  the  Baptists  must  be  excepted.  In  Medelpad  it 
often  happens  that  baptism  is  withheld  from  the  children.  Private 
baptisms  are  more  common  in  the  northern  provinces  than  in 
the  southern.  Out  of  134  children  in  Jorn  100  had  received 
private  baptism.  This  is  explained  by  the  long  distances,  but 
the  pastor  ought  to  try  to  reduce  the  number  of  private  bap- 
tisms as  much  as  possible.  In  Tornea  private  baptism  was 
administered  with  much  negligence.  Private  baptisms  were  gen- 
erally confirmed  in  the  church,  but  was  seldom  administered 
unless  by  necessity  except  among  the  Separatists  in  West  Both- 
nia, in  Jamtland  only  in  three  congregations,  in  Angermanland 
in  a  few,  in  Medelpad  somewhat  oftener. 

The  Lord's  Supper.  At  the  last  synod  there  was  a  complaint 
of  a  constantly  increasing  neglect  in  the  use  of  the  Lord's  Sup- 
per. According  to  the  reports  there  is  probably  some  improve- 
ment. When  the  communion  is  slighted  the  pastor  has  a  (deli- 
cate task  before  him.  On  the  one  hand  he  must  not  permit  its 
abuse,  on  the  other  hand  he  must  be  careful  not  to  refuse  those 
who  eagerly  long  to  partake  of  it.  Many  let  their  first  com- 
munion be  their  last. 

The  church  attendance.  In  this  Angermanland  stands  first. 
The  churches  are  well  attended.  In  the  two  upper  provinces  the 
attendance  varies.  In  Medelpad  the  attendance  has  increased, 
but  it  could  be  better  in  these  provinces.  In  Jamtland  some 
churches  are  well  attended,  others  not  so.  The  causes  are  sepa- 
ratism and  indifference,  the  long  distances  and  cold  winters.  In 
West  Bothnia  services  are  sometimes  held  in  the  hamlets. 

Observance  of  the  Sabbath.  As  a  rule  no  work  is  done  on 
the  Sabbath.  This  is  true  of  the  whole  diocese.  Still  the  day 
is  not  always  observed  in  the  proper  manner.  It  is  often  used 
for  concluding  bargains  and  in  traveling,  especially  in  the  upper 
parts  of  the  diocese.  In  the  southeastern  part  excursions  are 
often  made.  The  societies  are  to  blame  for  this.  Against  these 
there  is  not  much  to  be  said,  even  if  dangers  can  arise  through 
the  neglect  of  divine  worship.  This  may  happen  if  the  excur- 
sions are  made  to  the  churches  or  in  the  afternoons.  On  Sun- 
day and  the  evening  before,  pleasure  parties  are  often  held,  at 
which  vice  do  not  infrequently  occur. 

210 


The  interest  for  missions  is  seen  by  the  well  attended  mission- 
meetings  and  the  money  given.  The  movement  is  strongest  in 
Angermanland,  weakest  in  North  Bothnia,  but  there  are  com- 
paratively few  churches  where  there  is  rto  interest  for  missions. 
The  most  work  is  done  for  foreign  missions,  but  home  missions 
are  not  forgotten.  In  supporting  our  evangelical  organizations 
at  home,  we  ought  not  to  forget  that  the  Swedish  church  also 
has  its  missions  that  need  support. 

Revivals.  Concerning  such  many  comforting  reports  have 
been  handed  in.  In  about  40  churches  of  the  diocese  many 
have  been  roused  from  their  spiritual  sleep.  Many  of  these  are 
young  people.  This  is  a  proof  of  the  Spirit's  work  in  our  con- 
gregations. The  results  of  these  revivals  have  been  good  in 
many  respects.  In  some  cases  the  work  of  the  Separatists  has 
been  the  cause  of  the  revivals,  but  at  least  in  one  church  in 
Jamtland  they  have  been  carried  on  in  orthodox  lines. 

Religious  work  by  the  laymen  is  carried  on  in  nearly  all  the 
churches,  and  can  be  divided  into  two  classes:    the  work  that 
was  in  accordance  with  our  churches  and  aided  our  pastors,  and 
the  separatistic  movements  which  were  more  or  less  hostile  to- 
wards our  church.     The  former  kind  of  work  was  a  result  of  our 
home  association  and  our  mission-societies  among  whose  pastors 
there  were  many  school-teachers.     This  work  by  the  laymen  is 
found  least  in  the  Finnish  provinces  and  in  the  southern  parts 
of  the  regions  inhabited  by  the  Lapps,  most  in  Angermanland, 
West  Bothnia  and  parts  of  Jamtland.     The  pastors  praised  this 
work.     In  many   places   they   complained   that   there  were   not 
enough  such  laymen  and  wished  there  were  more.     According 
to  the  conception  of  the  bishop,  this  work  was  not  always  justi- 
fiable, but  in  this  diocese  it  formed  a  necessary  aid  to  the  work 
of  the  ministry,  although  it  was  accompanied  with  dangers  to 
the  lay-preachers  themselves,  when,  instead  of  supporting  the 
pastors   they  thought  themselves   sufficient   for  the   work,   and 
were  tempted  to  be  proud,  as  they  were  welcomed  everywhere 
but  remained  at  no  place  long  enough  to  be  criticised,  and  were 
also  tempted  to  preach  without  the  necessary  preparation.     The 
lay  preachers  did  not  always  have  the  power  of  withstanding 
these  temptations.     Those  who   labored   within   smaller   circles 
where  they  dwelt  were  less  exposed  to  these  dangers.     It  was 
desirable  they  and  the  societies  which  sent  them  out  should  stand 
in  closer  relation  to  the  ministrv. 


211 


Those  preachers  and  colporteurs  who  did  not  connect  them- 
selves with  the  church  were:  Laestadians,  Baptists,  the  preach- 
ers of  the  "Swedish  Missionary  Alliance,"  the  "Holy  Alliance," 
the  Salvation  Army  and  others.  These  unorthodox  sects  labored 
most  in  Medelpad,  then  in  Herjeadalen  and  parts  of  Jamtland, 
least  in  the  province  of  West  Bothnia  and  Swedish  North  Both- 
nia. Their  moderation  was  praised  by  some  congregations,  but 
in  others  they  had  tried  to  make  proselytes.  One  weakness  and 
concession  of  the  pastors  showed  itself  in  that  they  had  permitted 
them  to  use  the  school-houses  to  hold  meetings  in,  something 
very  unbefitting,  as  the  results  of  the  work  of  these  unorthodox 
lay-preachers  made  itself  manifest  in  party  movements  and 
church  dissentions. 

Party  organizations  and  separatism.  The  former  arose  when 
the  church  members  began  to  convene  in  certain  special  groups, 
yet  without  parting  from  the  rules  and  ordinances  of  the  church. 
Separatism  took  place  when  they  severed  their  relations  with 
the  church,  chiefly  on  account  of  the  means  of  grace.  To  the 
former  belonged  the  old-time  Lutherans  in  West  Bothnia.  The 
party  of  Forslund,  the  school-master  of  Dorothea,  was  not  widely 
spread.  A  great  field  was  occupied  by  the  Laestadian  move- 
ment, which  originated  in  the  Finnish-speaking  congregations, 
whence  it  spread  to  Upper  and  Lower  Kalix.  The  opinions  of 
the  Laestadian  movement  varied,  for  they  held  different  views 
in  different  places.  It  separated  most  from  the  church  in  the 
confession  of  faith  and  absolution.  Old-time  Lutherans  were 
found  along  the  coast  of  West  Bothnia  and  in  two  congregations 
of  Jamtland;  their  headquarters  were  the  congregations  of  Pitea, 
Elfsbyn,  Lower  and  Upper  Kalix.  At  no  place  does  this  move- 
ment prosper.  The  Bodellists  form  a  branch  of  the  sect.  They 
have  no  connection  with  the  clergy,  except  at  the  customary 
public  examinations,  when  they  usually  are  present  at  the  dispu- 
tations. Annites  were  found  only  in  four  congregations  of  An- 
germanland  and  in  one  congregation  of  West  Bothnia;  they  were 
most  numerous  in  Arnas,  having  45  congregations. 

Among  the  later  Separatists  are  the  Baptists,  spread  in  An- 
germanland  and  West  Bothnia,  less  in  South  Lapland,  more  in 
North  Bothnia,  also  in  the  greater  part  of  Jamtland  and  over 
the  whole  of  Medelpad.  Sundsvall  numbered  over  300  mem- 
bers, their  number  in  the  whole  diocese  is  estimated  at  a  little 
more  than  3,700,  thus  considerably  smaller  than  in  1890,  when 

212 


they  were  supposed  to  be  about  4,500.  From  the  official  report 
appears,  that  the  Baptists  no  longer  increase.  Most  of  the  Bap- 
tists remain  lawfully  in  that  denomination,  to  which  they  belong, 
and  stick  to  their  old  habits  of  fishing  in  muddy  water.  Hand  in 
hand  with  the  Baptists  we  have  the  Separatists,  having  no  written 
confession  of  faith,  the  Freereligious,  the  Adherents  of  Walden- 
strom and  others,  whose  center  is  "the  Swedish  Missionary  Asso- 
ciation." In  Angermanland  they  are  less  numerous  than  the 
Baptists,  likewise  in  Jamtland;  in  West  Bothnia  they  outnumber 
the  Baptists,  in  South  Lapland  very  few  are  found  of  either  sect, 
in  North  Bothnia  and  Medelpad  they  are  about  equally  strong. 
It  is  difficult  to  give  the  correct  number;  according  to  probable 
estimation  in  1890,  they  did  not  at  that  time  exceed  2,500,  now 
they  approach  probably  3,000.  Their  success  is,  however,  not 
as  great  as  they  themselves  claim.  Reports  from  several  places 
bear  witness  to  this  fact.  Their  mood  of  action  is  different;  in 
some  places  despiteful,  in  others  more  calm  and  peaceable. 

There  are  but  few  Methodists.  In  the  whole  diocese  only 
262  of  that  denomination  are  found,  in  Angermanland  only  2,  in 
West  Bothnia  none,  in  Medelpad  they  are  most  numerous.  In 
the  entire  diocese  are  only  17  Mormons.  The  Plymouth  Breth- 
ren are  stronger,  and  stand  in  direct  opposition  to  the  church, 
but  are  found  only  in  4  congregations,  numbering  in  all  a  hun- 
dred members,  of  whom,  strange  to  say,  78  live  in  the  city 
where  the  bishop  resides.  The  number  of  Salvation  Army  sol- 
diers is  undecided.  In  Medelpad  are  found  a  few  Adventists  and 
Leeanians. 

General  view  of  Separatism.  In  a  great  many  congregations 
not  a  single  Separatist  can  be  found.  In  Angermanland  this 
is  the  case  in  15  congregations,  in  the  province  of  West  Bothnia 
in  14,  in  North  Bothnia  in  18,  in  Jamtland  in  27  congregations. 

Of  the  whole  population,  278,700  people,  not  fully  5,000  are 
Separatists.  We  can  report  not  only  a  stagnation  among  them, 
but  also  a  return,  sometimes  to  the  mother  church,  but  some- 
times also  to  unbelief. 

A  danger,  similar  to  that  of  Separation,  is  the  refined  ration- 
alism, uncommon  in  Angermanland,  North  and  West  Bothnia, 
more  prevailing  in  Medelpad,  and  common  in  Jamtland  and 
Harjeadalen.  Sometimes  the  effects  are  shown  by  an  indiffer- 
ence to  the  church,  which  often  passes  over  to  gross  materialism. 
It  is  disseminated  among  some  educated,  but  chiefly  among  the 

213 


day-laborers.  Obnoxious  newspapers  spread  the  seed  of  unbe- 
lief, and  perform  secretly  a  work  of  destruction,  greater  than 
it  now  appears.  Agitators  from  other  places  have  not  been  want- 
ing. 

Thus  in  "Malmbefget"  70  members  have  been  gained  for  the 
Utilitarian  Society.  The  temperance  work  has  sometimes  served 
as  a  gate  to  unbelief.  In  one  congregation  several  of  the  Good 
Templars  had  deserted  their  order,  to  organize  a  new  one,  where 
faith  in  God  should  not  be  necessary. 

The  moral  condition  in  the  congregations.  A  few  congrega- 
tions were  found  almost  perfect  in  this  respect;  within  others 
rudeness  and  moral  degradation  prevailed.  Only  a  few  general 
statements  could  be  made,  (i)  In  several  parts  of  the  diocese 
a  decided  advancement  in  morals  has  been  made;  (2)  violent 
crimes  are  less  common  in  this  diocese;  (3)  the  constant  residents 
have  proven  themselves  more  satisfactory  in  moral  respect,  than 
the  floating  population. 

The  following  violations  against  morals  have  been  noticed: 
Smuggling  on  the  Finnish  frontier,  the  stealing  of  reindeer,  un- 
lawful hunting  and  depredations  of  forests  in  the  northern  parts 
of  the  diocese,  profanity,  running  saloons  without  license  in 
North  Bothnia  and  Lapland,  partly  in  Medelpad  and  in  the 
southern  part  of  Jamtland.  Drunkenness,  the  national  vice,  and 
unchastity  were  the  most  prevalent  vices.  Drunkenness  has 
greatly  decreased  in  most  of  the  congregations  of  Angermanland, 
it  was  worse  in  West  Bothnia,  many  evils  existed  in  North 
Bothnia.  In  Medelpad  one  worked  with  success  for  the  temper- 
ance cause,  the  same  was  true  in  Jamtland,  with  the  exception 
of  two  or  three  places.  It  could  be  said,  that  drunkenness,  on 
the  average,  had  decreased  within  the  diocese.  The  causes  for 
this  were  to  be  found  partly  in  the  noble  efforts  of  the  clergy, 
partly  in  the  education,  given  through  a  developed  school-system, 
in  the  general  religious  spirit,  and  in  temperance  societies,  as 
the  Blue-Ribbon  Society,  and  the  Good  Templars.  Of  the 
former  no  complaints  were  heard,  concerning  the  latter  different 
opinions  were  held,  in  some  places  they  were  praised,  in  others 
censured.  The  temptation  of  neglecting  one  side  of  morality, 
for  the  sake  of  upholding  another  was  near  at  hand.  The  many 
secret  performances  of  the  Good  Templars  often  resulted  in  oppo- 
sitions from  the  side  of  the  clergy.  It  is  to  be  desired,  that  strong 
measures  be  taken  against  whisky-selling  and  beer-drinking. 

214 


Unchastity  had  not  decreased.  The  number  of  illegitimate 
children  varied  in  different  congregations.  As  extremes  were 
mentioned  Norderon,  where  in  12  years  no  illegitimate  child 
had  been  born,  and  the  large  parish  of  Lofanger,  where  no  illegit- 
imate children  were  born  during  the  last  two  years.  In  Jorn 
during  the  last  7  years,  the  unlawfully  begotten  were  only  i^ 
per  cent,  in  Norrsjo  still  less,  while  in  Holm,  Medelpad,  the  num- 
ber constituted  25  per  cent  of  all  children  born,  and  in  Storsjo, 
Jamtland,  nearly  ^^  per  cent.  In  West  Bothnia  and  North 
Bothnia  immorality  had  not  gained  such  a  strong  foothold,  but 
Medelpad,  the  greater  part  of  Jamtland  and  Haejeadalcn  were 
the  most  corrupted,  where  20  per  cent  of  all  the  children  were 
born  out  of  wedlock.  In  many  congregations  chaste  brides  were 
something  unusual.  The  causes  of  this  unchastity?  The  masses 
of  laborers,  roaming  about,  the  nightly  meetings  of  different 
societies,  and  before  everything  else,  the  custom  of  staying  out 
at  night,  which  though  on  the  decline,  still  prevailed,  except 
in  two  congregations  of  Angermanland  and  in  the  Finnish 
regions.  Measures  for  counteracting  this  vice?  Several  socie- 
ties have  been  organized  for  this  purpose,  as  young  men's  and 
young  women's  Christian  Associations,  singing  societies,  debat- 
ing societies  and  others.  Still  very  little  will  be  gained,  unless 
the  home  exert  a  more  beneficial  influence,  than  hitherto.  In 
this  respect  the  official  reports  were  greatly  disappointing.  The 
examples  set  at  home  were  often  of  the  poorest  kind,  the  dis- 
cipline still  worse.  Disobedience  of  children  and  servants 
seemed  to  increase. 

At  last  was  mentioned  the  influence  of  separatism  on  moral- 
ity. For  the  Separatists  especially  protested  against  the  immor- 
ality within  the  church.  To  what  standard  then  had  they  raised 
morality  among  themselves?  Opinions  were  different  from  dif- 
ferent places.  Some  testified  that  separatism  had  done  a  great 
deal  for  the  work  against  morality,  others  that  it  had  done 
neither  good  nor  harm,  still  others,  that  it  exerted  a  bad  influ- 
ence upon  morality.  The  morality  of  the  old-time  Lutherans 
and  of  the  Separatists  left  much  to  be  desired.  Greater  corrup- 
tion prevailed  among  the  Baptists  than  among  the  freereligions. 
Separatism  had,  briefly  said,  faults  in  moral  respects,  as  well  as 
religious  and  denominational  faults. 

The  educational  system  had  been  a  success  almost  everywhere 
through  the  establishments  of  schools,  and  the  employing  of 

217 


new  teachers.  In  Nordmaling,  i6  new  school-houses  had  been 
erected  since  1890,  and  two  rebuilt.  In  the  Finnish  parishes  22 
schools  for  instruction  of  the  Swedish  language  had  been  estab- 
lished. Preparations  were  made  for  establishing  several  Lap- 
landish  schools.  Popular  education  ranked  high  in  some  parts 
of  Jamtland,  and  in  certain  lumber  regions. 

But  in  the  diocese  at  large  much  remains  to  be  done  in 
regard  to  education.  The  poverty  of  the  scattered  population 
makes  it  difficult  for  them  to  get  teachers.  The  population  of 
the  conservative  West  Bothnia  does  not  always  appreciate  the 
blessings  of  schools.  Smaller  public  schools  are  an  unsatis- 
factory substitute,  for  the  ordinary,  ambulatory  schools  oflfer 
great  inconveniences. 

In  18  congregations  of  the  diocese  a  large  number  of  chil- 
dren have  not  been  able  to  receive  instruction,  and  the  same 
happened  in  Arjeploug  to  more  than  one-fourth  of  the  entire 
number  of  children.  The  attitude  of  the  parents  to  the  schools 
is  often  good,  and  it  seems  to  be  more  and  more  so.  But  often 
the  necessity  of  the  education  of  children  is  not  perceived.  The 
school-board  often  omit  to  visit  the  schools;  this  refers  chiefly 
to  the  Finnish  congregations. 

Sunday-schools  were  common,  except  in  the  Finnish  dis- 
tricts. Some  were  kept  by  Separatists,  and  nothing  could  be 
said  against  that,  as  long  as  the  children  were  not  enticed  away 
from  church.  About  100  Lutheran  Sunday-schools  were  to  be 
found. 

In  order  to  raise  the  standard  of  popular  education,  public 
libraries  were  established,  which  formerly  were  frequently  made 
use  of.  Newspaper  reading  had  now  taken  their  place.  The 
ministers  ought  to  take  special  care  of  these  libraries  and  provide 
good  reading. 

Since  the  year  1890  city  churches  had  been  built  in  Lulea, 
Umea  and  Sundsvall,  and  chapels  in  several  country  congrega- 
tions. Extensive  repairs  had  been  made  in  the  cathedral  of 
Hernosand,  and  in  many  other  places.  Great  interest  was  taken 
in  keeping  the  churches  in  good  order.  Yet  there  remains  much 
to  be  done.  Many  churches  ought  to  be  enlarged  or  rebuilt, 
among  which:  Ullanger,  Anundsjo,  Nordmaling,  Norsjo, 
Arvidsjaur,  Pitea  City,  Ostersund  and  others. 

New  churches  ought  to  be  erected  in:  Bjarta  at  Sando, 
Ramsele,  Anundsjo,  Chapels    in    Sjalevad,    Nordingra,    Safvar, 

218 


Vannas,  Skelleftca  (two  new  churches)  I^yske,  Xorsjo,  Jorn, 
Bjurtriisk,  Arvidsjaur,  Arjeploug,  Pitca  country  congregation, 
Lulea,  Ranea,  Pajala,  Lycksele,  Frcdrika,  Sorscle,  Asele,  Torp, 
Borgsjo,  Strom,  Hotagen,  k'rostvikcn  and  Stugun. 

The  graveyards  had  been  enlarged  and  improved.  They  had 
not  all  been  sufficiently  taken  care  of,  and  planting  of  trees  was 
wanting,  especially  in  Finnish  districts. 

During  a  period  of  the  last  seven  years  large  donations  had 
been  made,  to  the  church,  for  the  promotion  of  morality  and  for 
educational  purposes.  The  bishop  read  a  long  list  of  these  dona- 
tions.    Great  willingness  to  give  had  always  been  noticed. 

This  description  of  the  conditions  of  our  diocese  showed,  said 
the  bishop,  both  shadows  and  sunshine,  but  on  the  whole  the 
condition  had,  as  he  mentioned  in  his  address  of  welcome,  not 
grown  worse,  but  was  decidedly  better  than  what  could  be 
excepted  with  the  insufficient  means  at  hand. 

The  views  of  the  bishop  on  Baptism  are  of  much  interest  to 
every  church  member  and  student  of  church  history  and  sym- 
bolics. The  Lutheran  Church  believes  in  infant  baptism.  All 
Lutherans  in  Sweden  and  everywhere  stand  united  on  that  prin- 
ciple. The  minister  is  the  person  and  the  ministry  the  office 
through  which  Baptism  is  to  be  administered.  In  Norrland 
there  are  parts  where  the  people  live  a  great  distance  from  the 
nearest  pastor,  and  so  in  cases  of  necessity  administer  baptism 
by  the  agency  of  laymen.  In  many  places  in  Sweden  there  are 
Separatists  who,  because  of  enmity  to  the  order  prescribed  by 
the  church,  administer  baptism  through  the  agency  of  laymen. 
Are  those  by-baptisms  to  be  recognized  by  the  church?  Bishop 
Johansson  says:  "They  must  be."  Bishop  Ullman  says:  "They 
should  not  be  recognized."  A  test  case  has  been  decided  by  the 
highest  authorities  in  favor  of  the  Hernosand  bishop.  Fiom  the 
point  of  view  of  true  Lutheranism  and  the  Word  of  God,  Bishop 
Johansson  is  clearly  in  the  right.  Bishop  Ullman  can  certainly 
not  rest  his  case  on  anything  but  church  policy.  Such  extremes 
of  high-churchliness  cannot  bear  good  fruits.  The  state  church 
will  never  be  benefited  by  any  radical  measures  against  her  few 
opponents,  especially  when  not  founded  upon  the  doctrines  and 
usages  of  the  Reformers.  Let  the  state  church  remain  Lutheran 
and  beware  of  any  Romanistic  tendencies.  On  the  other  hand, 
let  the  Separatists  cool  down  and  realize  their  own  superficiality 
and  onesidedness.     Many  of  them  are  doing  so  already. 

219 


But  I  will  let  you  hear  Bishop  Johansson  himself,  in  transla- 
tion from  the  newspaper  report.  The  following  are  his  views: — ■ 
*  The  bishop's  discourse  concerning  the  conditions  for  the  ef- 
ficacy of  baptism  as  a  means  of  grace,  now  followed.  Baptism 
was  considered  in  part  from  a  subjective  point  of  view: — the  con- 
dition of  the  one  to  be  baptized — in  part  from  an  objective  point 
of  view: — the  act  of  baptism  itself.  With  respect  to  the  former, 
it  was  held  that  baptism  presupposed  a  desire  for  the  grace 
which  is  communicated  through  baptism.  If  baptism  could  com- 
municate grace  without  this  condition,  then  it  must  act  imper- 
sonally. Desire  was  considered  in  this  respect  as  synonymous 
with  faith :  Faith  without  baptism  can  save,  but  baptism  with- 
out faith  could  not.  This  pronounced  the  sentence  over  all 
compulsory  baptisms.  It  would  be  easy  to  grasp  this  meaning 
of  Baptism  when  adults  are  considered,  but  far  more  difficult 
when  children  are  concerned.  Even  these  require  salvation,  fo|" 
they  are  born  with  an  heritage  of  sin,  and  we  have  no  right  to 
withhold  from  them  the  means  of  grace,  communicated  through 
baptism.  But  this  presupposes  faith  and,  if  children  are  with- 
out faith,  then  baptism  is  valueless  to  them  as  a  means  of  grace. 
Can  children  have  faith,  and  if  so,  in  what  manner  do  they  obtain 
it?  The  answers  of  parents  and  sponsors  are  not  valid  for  the 
children.  Children  have  not  faith  by  nature.  Such  a  concep- 
tion is  not  supported  by  the  Scriptures.  Faith  is  something 
more  than  receptiveness  for  that  which  is  good.  How  shall 
one  then  conceive  anything  positive  in  the  child  at  the  same  as 
we  recognize  the  negative?  Two  tenets  should  be  held  forth; 
first,  that  a  child  possesses  receptiveness  but  no  power  of  resist- 
ance; second,  that  God  always  takes  the  first  step  in  the  work  of 
salvation.  God  can  then  create  within  the  child  a  faith  which 
receives  grace,  when  he  meets  that  child  in  baptism.  An  ac- 
tivity of  the  Holy  Ghost,  which  can  be  called  faith,  enters  into 
the  child  in  and  through  baptism.  It  is  difficult  for  us  to  hold 
precise  views  as  to  this  faith  of  the  infants  and  yet  it  cannot  be 
denied.  The  essential  spirit  of  faith  is  a  returning  to  God,  and 
this  can  exist  without  consciousness.  An  analogy  is  offered  in 
one  condition  during  sleep,  when  faith  still  is  found.  The  com- 
parison is  not  apt.  for,  during  sleep,  consciousness  is  but  momen- 
tarily lost,  but,  with  the  child,  both  self-consciousness  and  will, 
though  only  as  potentiality,  must  be  supposed  to  exist,  and  even 
so  faith,  not  only  as  a  possibility  but  also  as  some  form  of  activity, 

220 


must  be  assumed.  Baptism  is  a  washing  of  regeneration,  which 
gives  spiritual  hfe. 

Further  and  as  a  result  of  the  above,  some  conceptions  of 
Baptism  were  shown,  among  others,  that  the  baptismal  gift  of 
grace  should  be  given  only  to  certain  children,  who  were  capable 
of  receiving  grace.  Baptism  would  then  be  hypothetical,  al- 
though the  receptiveness  of  all  children  is  the  same. 

The  faith  of  the  child  is  undeveloped,  but  as  the  child  grows, 
it  ought  to  be  developed,  otherwise  this  spark  of  faith  would 
die  out.  This  development  should  occur  during  the  education 
of  the  child  and  should  conclude,  relatively  speaking,  at  the  time 
of  confirmation. 

The  baptists,  who  reject  infant  baptism,  might  for  some  rea- 
son desire  the  baptism  of  their  children.  Should  such  children 
be  baptized?  The  speaker  w^as  inclined  to  answer  affirmatively. 
Even  if  parents  do  not  approve  of  baptism,  still  the  children 
would  be  instructed  in  the  fundamental  principles  of  Christianity 
and  thereby  be  able  to  grow  in  faith. 

With  respect  to  baptism  from  an  objective  point  of  view,  it 
was  held  that  it  should  be  administered  in  the  proper  manner, 
i.e.,  in  conformance  with  the  Words  of  God.  In  this  we  find 
three  things  to  be  noticed:  first,  the  purpose  of  baptism,  which 
is  to  make  the  one  baptized  a  disciple  of  Christ;  second,  the  ap- 
plying of  water  to  the  body;  third,  that  baptism  is  administered 
in  the  name  of  the  Triune  God.  These  three  points  were  de- 
veloped by  the  speaker.  With  respect  to  the  first,  he  opposed 
the  Roman  Catholic  conception  and  discussed  the  question, 
whether  the  disposition  of  mind  in  the  one  baptized  affected 
baptism  and  in  what  proportion.  With  respect  to  the  second,  it 
was  stated  that  at  first  immersion  was  practiced.  In  the  Occi- 
dental church  the  question  of  immersion  w^as  no  longer  consid- 
ered as  of  essential  importance.  The  main  thing  was  simply  that 
the  body  should  come  in  contact  with  water. 

Even  with  several  deviations,  baptism  could  act  as  a  means 
of  grace,  just  so  that  nothing  essential  was  omitted.  Through 
baptism  the  one  baptized  w^as  admitted  into  the  church,  and 
therefore  it  should  be  administered  by  the  pastor,  but  in  case 
of  necessity,  it  can  be  administered  by  a  layman  with  equal  va- 
lidity. 

In  our  diocese,  parents  often  allow  their  children  to  be  bap- 
tized by  laymen,  not  only  in  cases  of  necessity,  but  also  because 

221 


of  the  great  distance  to  the  pastor.  In  other  parts  of  our  coun- 
try Separatist  parents  allow  laymen  to  baptize  their  children. 
This  is  an  abuse  which  should  be  corrected,  but,  if  baptism 
is  otherwise  correctly  administered,  it  must  be  valid,  or 
else  it  would  be  placing  the  administrator  of  the  means  of 
grace  above  faith.  These  baptisms  are  not  in  conflict  with  the 
laws  of  the  church,  as  many  believed.  In  conclusion  the  speaker 
referred  to  the  results  of  baptism  and  stated  that  it  need  not  be 
repeated,  being  a  cleansing  unto  regeneration  through  the  Holy 
Ghost. 

The  memorial  address  was  a  model  of  its  kind,  as  far  as  I 
could  judge.  I  had  met  during  my  previous  visit,  seven  years 
earlier,  several  of  those,  whose  memory  was  now  celebrated. 
Chief  among  them  were  Rev.  Dr.  Brandell,  Dean  Arbman,  and 
Rev.  Dr.  Widen.  It  seemed  to  me  that  the  speaker  uttered  the 
truth  so  kindly,  so  lovingly,  even  when  a  sense  of  truth  and 
justice  made  unmixed  compliments  impossible,  but  he  was  after- 
wards criticised  by  some.  Better  have  no  memorial  addresses 
at  all,  than  to  have  them  untrue  and  misrepresenting. 

To  me  it  was  exceedingly  interesting  to  listen  to  the  discus- 
sion by  the  ministers  of  the  salary-question.  I  believed  no 
troubles  of  that  kind  existed  in  dear,  old  Sweden.  The  salaries 
are,  however,  surprisingly  uneven,  and  the  second  pastors  and 
assistants  are  often  very  poorly  paid.  I  found  that  dollars  and 
cents  form  an  important  part  of  Swedish  life,  just  the  same  as 
here. 

At  about  lo  p.  m.  the  clergy  escorted  the  bishop  to  the  Epis- 
copal residence.  The  Dean  Englund,  one  of  the  oldest,  most 
learned  and  popular  men  of  the  diocese,  spoke  feelingly  to  the 
bishop,  'who  replied  briefly  and  in  the  same  spirit.  Both  ad- 
dresses were  full  of  confidence,  love  and  hope.  Then  all  bared 
their  heads  and  sung  a  stanza  of  Luther's  immortal  battle  hymn: 
"A  mighty  fortress  is  our  God." 

My  respectful  and  fraternal  regards  to  that  fine  body  of  men 
and  church  workers,  the  ministers  of  Norrland! 
A  Sunday  in  Norrland. 

The  average  reader  cannot  realize  what  it  means  to  a  clergy- 
man and  public  speaker,  who  has  been  in  the  harness  uninter- 
ruptedly for  months  and  years,  and  often  forced  by  circumstances 
to  preach  and  talk  in  public  from  five  to  ten  times  a  week — 
what  it  means  for  him  to  be  free,  to  be  like  other  people,  to  sit 

222 


in  the  pew  with  his  wife  and  friends  and  look  at  the  pulpit  from 
an  entirely  new  point  of  view.  Ah,  it  was  glorious  to  be  free, 
and  to  enjoy  our  liberty  in  such  company  as  wc  did. 

We  attended  the  morning  service  in  the  large  and  imposin_g 
Cathedral.  It  has  been  renovated  and  decorated  since  my  first 
visit  there,  and  is  now  a  most  beautiful  temple  of  God. 

The  Swedish  morning  service  is  very  impressive,  and  every- 
body joined  heartily  in  rendering  it  in  the  right  spirit,  it  seemed. 
The  organ  is  a  splendid  instrument  and  was  well  handled  by 
Director  Lind.  In  the  gallery  I  saw  some  officers  and  the 
students  of  the  Military  School,  located  in  the  city. 

The  sermon  by  Rev.  Chelander  was  a  splendid  one,  based 
upon  the  regular  morning  lesson.  Math.  9:  9-13.  The  subject 
announced  was:  "Two  old  pictures,  that  of  Jesus  and  your 
own."  The  parts  were  two.  The  first,  the  image  of  Jesus;  the 
other,  your  own  picture.  Jesus  is  the  physician  of  souls.  He 
has  the  heart,  and  He  has  the  ability.  The  health  of  the  Chris- 
tian is  to  constantly  need  Christ.  Our  own  picture  is  one  of 
two.  Either  we  have  the  mind  and  heart  of  the  Pharisee  or  of 
the  publican.  We  ought  to  feel  as  Paul;  the  chief  of  sinners. 
We  may  feel,  however,  as  the  Pharisee,  better  than  the  rest. 

I  admire  the  Swedish  preaching  for  two  reasons:  First,  their 
system  of  Pericopes,  used  also  by  the  Swedish-Lutherans,  the 
Augustana  Synod,  of  this  country,  and  consisting  of  a  three  years 
course  of  lessons  from  the  Gospels  and  Epistles,  makes  it  obli- 
gatory to  treat  of  all  important  parts  and  doctrines  of  the  New 
Testament.  The  subject  for  the  morning  sermon  is  always  the 
regular  morning  lesson  from  the  Gospels.  The  idea  is  a  most 
excellent  and  fruitful  one,  and  is  greatly  liked  by  those  who 
use  it. 

In  the  second  place,  the  Lutherans  preach  simple,  straight- 
forward gospel  sermons.  Politics,  Literature,  Aesthetics  are  not 
discussed  in  the  pulpit  over  there.  The  old  theme  of  Salvation 
through  faith  in  Christ  is  the  theme  of  the  sermons.  Usually 
the  sermons  are  well  prepared,  but  there  are  exceptions.  Some 
of  the  old  ministers  preach  very  stale  and  dry  sermons.  My  im- 
pression is  that  the  preachers  in  general  ought  to  study  expres- 
sion and  delivery  more  than  they  have  done.  The  same  is  true  of 
American  ministers.  Nothing  is  too  good  for  God  and  in  serv- 
ing Christ.  If  an  actor  needs  expression  and  delivery,  why 
should  a  minister  of  God  be  uncouth,  careless  and  uneducated 

223 


in  these  matters?  One  house-mother  takes  flour  and  makes  ex- 
cellent bread;  another  takes  the  same  kind  of  flour,  goes  through 
the  same  performance,  but  the  bread  is  valueless,  no  one  will 
eat  it.  Don't  blame  the  flour,  my  friend.  So  with  ministers. 
Therefore  they  should  be  careful  about  not  only  the  contents, 
but  also  the  delivery.  I  refer  to  both  the  sermon  and  the  reading 
of  the  liturgy.  Oh,  how  the  liturgy  is  "murdered"  by  many 
who  stand  before  the  altar  of  God.  Yes,  had  I  the  money,  I 
would  organize  and  endow  a  Sacred  School  of  Elocution,  where 
candidates  for  the  ministry  would  be  put  through  a  thorough 
training.  Thank  God,  we  have  good,  orthodox  seminaries,  but 
don't  forget  or  look  down  upon  the  formal  part  as  un-important. 

After  the  service  I  had  the  pleasure  of  an  introduction  at  the 
Episcopal  residence  to  General  Toll,  a  fine,  splendidly-looking 
military  gentleman,  in  whose  heart  is  the  fear  of  God. 

My  near  and  dear  friends.  Rev.  and  Mrs.  Rogberg,  of  Den- 
mark, near  Upsala,  invited  me  to  attend  an  afternoon  service  on 
an  island,  or  peninsula,  some  miles  distant  from  Hernosand.  I 
accepted  at  once,  and  the  trip  proved  a  very  pleasant  one.  The 
small  church  was  too  small,  and  so  at  my  suggestion,  the  seats 
were  all  carried  outside,  and  we  made  a  church  with  the  pure 
blue  of  the  summer  sky  for  a  ceiling,  the  dark  evergreens  of 
the  Norrland  forests  for  walls,  and  the  beautiful  waters  of  the 
Baltic  for  grounds.  They  made  me  preach  to  the  people  in 
this  superb  church  edifice,  and  I  yielded.  Nothing  is  so  pleas- 
ant to  me  as  to  deliver  the  dear,  old  Gospel  message  to  those 
who  are  anxious  to  receive  it. 

I  remember  one  thing  from  the  interior  of  the  little  church 
which  we  deprived  of  its  pews.  On  the  altar  cloth  were  em- 
broidered in  beautiful  letters:  "He  that  thirsteth,  let  him  come 
to  me."  Have  you  ever  heard  of  a  better  selection?  Oh,  to  me 
it  seemed  so  full  of  Gospel  truth  and  consolation. 

The  return  trip  over  the  placid  waters  was  charming.  The 
number  of  passengers  was  so  great,  however,  that  the  boat  found 
some  trouble  in  getting  away  from  shore,  but  with  that  accom- 
plished sped  on  for  home  at  a  lively  rate.  There  was  no  service 
in  the  evening.  The  "evening"  service  had  been  held  at  5  p.  m. 
That  gave  us  the  evening  free,  at  home.  Why  don't  we  imitate 
our  Swedish  friends?  Don't  we  need  some  time  in  our  homes? 
Would  it  not  be  comfortable  and  profitable  for  us  to  become 
acquainted  with  our  own  wives  and  children  and  friends?    The 

224 


1       PROF    N    P    ODMAN.       2.      BISHOP  KUNDGREN.      3.      BISHOP  JOHANSSON. 
'4.  '   BISHOP   VON   SCHEELE.      5.      LADY  VON   SCHEELE. 
G.      LADY  JOHANSSON. 


1.     KEY.  C.  ROGBERG.      2.     RURAL  DEAN  BILL.      3.     RURAL  DEAN  SANDZ^N. 
4.      REV.  JUHLIN.      5.      REV.  HOLM. 


church,  the  chib,  the  secret  orders,  the  theater  are  uniting  in 
robbing  us  of  our  home  Hfe.  Americans  criticise  Europe  on 
her  outdoor  Hfe,  but  we  forget  our  own  mnumerable  meetings, 
committees,  entertainments  and  the  Hke,  held  after  dark,  and 
placing  an  abyss  between  us  and  our  "loved  ones,"  if  you  will 
really  allow  a  busy  American  to  use  so  beautiful  a  phrase. 

The  last  Sunday  in  Hernosand  found  me  in  the  pulpit  of  the 
great  Cathedral.  What  a  grand  audience.  How  attentively 
they  all  seemed  to  listen.  What  reverence  and  respect  for  "the 
holy  place"  I  noticed  everywhere.  The  first  Sunday  I  saw  the 
pulpit  from  the  pew;  now  it  was  reversed,  and  I  looked  upon 
the  pew  from  the  pulpit.  Both  are  splendid  points  of  observa- 
tion. It  does  a  clergyman  good  to  sit  in  the  pew:  it  would  be 
well  for  many  laymen  to  stand  in  the  pulpit  occasionally. 


229 


CHAPTER  XV. 

In  a  Buggy  to  Wiksjo  and  a  Paper  on  Church  Conditions 

IN  Sweden. 

On  Tuesday  morning,  May  6th,  Rev.  Chelander,  Mr.  Johans- 
son (the  only  and  scholarly  son  of  the  bishop,  and  who  is  pre- 
paring to  take  a  very  high  theological  diploma  in  another  year 
or  two),  with  myself,  started  for  Wiksjo,  an  inland  place  about  28 
miles  distant.  You  ought  to  have  seen  our  rig.  It  had  two  seats 
and  four  very  low  wheels,  and  only  one  horse  was  hitched  to  it. 
In  our  basket  was  a. splendid  lunch.  We  started  a  quarter  past 
nine  and  arrived  at  our  destination  at  5  p.  m.  So  you  see  we 
did  not  make  fast  time  at  all.  In  the  hills  one,  two  or  three  of 
us  walked.  Half-ways  we  rested  a  while  and  ate  our  lunch  in 
the  grand  old  forest,  breathing  the  pure,  healthy  air  of  the  fir- 
trees. 

We  passed  six  beautiful  lakes,  talked  and  became  better 
acquainted  than  ever  before.  Eight  hours  is  a  long  time  in  a 
buggy,  and  I  will  improve  the  time  by  reading  you  a  lecture  on 
church  conditions  in  Sweden,  extracted  from  a  recent  work  by 
Rundgren.  I  have  found  so  much  ignorance  and  falsification 
as  to  these  things  in  America,  that  the  reader  will  pardon  me 
for  my  ambition  to  give  a  full  exhibit  of  the  facts  in  the  case. 

Don't  get  tired.    Eight  hours  is  a  long  time,  you  know. 

Now  we  will  begin: 

THE  ECCLESIASTICAL  DIVISIONS. 

Ecclesiastically,  Sweden  is  divided  into  twelve  bishoprics  or 
dioceses,  to  which  should  be  added  the  municipal  consistory  oi 
Stockholm  and  the  Royal  Consistory. 

With  respect  to  this  division  into  bishoprics,  it  may  be  said 
that  even  before  the  appointment  of  the  first  Swedish  archbishop 
in  Upsala,  1163,  there  were  seven  of  the  present  Swedish  dio- 
ceses,   viz.,  Upsala,    Linkoping,    Skara,    Strengnas,    Vesteras, 

230 


Vexio,  and  the  archbishopric  of  Lund,  which,  at  that  time,  was 
subject  to  Denmark.  An  especial  superintendency  was  estab- 
lished in  1620  by  Gustavus  II.  Adolphus  in  Goteborg  for  that 
city  and  a  portion  of  Vestergotland,  to  which,  in  1646,  Ilalland 
was  added,  and  later  Bohnslan.  It  was  elevated  to  a  bishopric 
in  1665.  There  was  already  a  superintendent  in  Kalniar,  al- 
though it  was  as  yet  under  the  jurisdiction  of  the  bishop  of 
Linkoping,  appointed  by  Gustavus  I.;  but  Charles  IX.  separated 
it  from  Linkoping  and  Charles  XI.  made  it  a  bishopric  in  1678. 
Vermland  was  subject  to  the  bishops  of  Skara  during  the  middle 
ages,  but  an  especial  superintendent  for  it  and  a  portion  of 
Vestergotland  was  commissioned  in  Mariestad,  1586,  and  after- 
wards in  Karlstad,  1647.  It  became  a  bishopric  in  \j-/i.  Norr- 
land,  which  up  to  this  time  had  been  united  with  the  arch- 
bishopric of  L'psala,  received  an  especial  superintendency  at 
Hern5sand  in  1647  and  in  1772  was  elevated  to  a  bishopric  by 
Gustavus  III.  Lastly  Gotland,  which  had  for  ages  been  sub- 
ject to  the  bishops  of  Linkoping,  received  during  the  Danish 
ascendancy  (1570-1658)  her  own  superintendent  at  Visby  and  this 
was  continued  even  after  the  island  became  again  a  part  of 
Sweden.  A  bishop  was  appointed  in  1772  at  the  time  that  the 
two  preceding  bishoprics  were  established. 

The  area  and  population  of  the  different  bishoprics  is  pre- 
sented in  the  following  table: 

TABLE   A. 


BISHOPRICS. 

L^psala 

Linkoping 

Skara  

Strengnas 

Vesteras   

Vexio    

Lund;    

Goteborg 

Kalmar 

Karlstad    

Hernosand 

Visby 

Consistory  in  Stockholm.. 
Non-Lutherans    in     legal 

congregations 

Total 


Area 

in  square 

Kilometers. 


Population 

1850. 


Population 


32,591-50 
18,776.10 
12,696.65 
13,092.17 
38,808.52 

18.723-35 
14,274.30 

15,033-56 

5.775-08 

24.410.67 

241,380.15 

3-158.44 

32-75 


438,753-24 
231 


278,108 

337-783 
288,947 
230,416 
270,491 
261,556 
550.538 
383.976 
1 19.441 
305.500 
278,108 

44.572 
93,070 


467.380 
391,462 
352.506 
306,132 
363,600 
314.828 
732.536 
531.864 
141,654 
347.122 
536.833 
51.337 
244,226 

3.501 


3,442,506  1  4,784,981 


The  bishoprics  of  Upsala  and  Hernosand,  which  in  1850  had 
the  same  population,  show  the  greatest  relative  increase.  The 
reason  for  this  is  the  great  increase  in  population  in  the  northern 
provinces. 

Bishoprics  are  divided  into  districts,  which  in  1890  num- 
bered one  hundred  and  eighty-three.  Each  district  includes 
upon  an  average  from  seven  to  eight  pastorates.  The  smallest 
is  the  deanery  of  Upsala,  with  but  two  pastorates,  the  largest, 
Luggude  with  seventeen.  With  respect  to  the  population  of 
each  district,  the  first  district  (Hagunda  in  the  archbishopric) 
had  less  than  5,000,  while  the  eighth  district  had  50,000  inhabit- 
ants. The  southern  district  of  the  deanery  of  Goteborg  ranks 
first  with  the  exceptionally  large  population  of  139,254.  The 
average  population  of  each  district  is  26,147 

It  is  more  difficult  to  report  the  number  of  congregations 
and  pastorates,  for  one  is  often  in  doubt  as  to  whether  certain  as- 
sembles should  be  considered  as  congregations — and  as  pastor- 
ates, or  not. 

The  central  bureau  of  statistics,  whose  reports  I  follow,  never- 
theless in  1890  gives  the  number  of  congregations  as  2,538,  and 
of  pastorates  1,379. 

The  size  of  the  congregations  and  the  division  by  provinces 
is  contained  in  the  following  report : 


232 


Total. 

t»r--di-^cC'^'-'«'i»<"^Tj-'~ouncv)u-)VOm'}-M-'^nCS»-'C^fn 

o 

00 
<^ 

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o 

o 
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r<^ 

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O 

CC 

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o 
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o 

1 

10,000  and 
over. 

00|,r-,r-CS»-|.r-|.^|\OT--q-|        |        I'-l        |<St-|        |        1 

5,000—10,000. 

1        1        1        |(S'r-.r-01»-CS.r-.r-|r^CST-CS|<ST-|'r-,r-|        1 

3,000—5,000. 

I""!"!  1  1  1  1  I"!  I'^'^l'^l'"!  1"" 

04 

2,000-3,000. 

<N^|^<v,|      1^1      1      i^i^cM^I      1      1      1      1      1      1      1^ 

1,000—2,000. 

"-i'-|CJ(S»-|     1     |MfO|<SNT-»-|n|cs|     1     i^T- 

500—1.000. 

O-^lfSI     1     I'-'l     1     |^'-C1|     1     1     1     I'-l     1     1     1     1 

under  500. 

'"    1     1     1     1     1     1     1     1     1     1    '^    1     1     1     1     1     1     1     1     1     1     1     1     1 

6.                City 

Congregations. 

Stockholm  city 

"           province 
Upsala 

Sodermaniand     " 
Ostergotland      " 
Jfinkoping           " 
Kronoberg          " 
Kalmar               " 
Gotland 

Blekinge              " 
Kristianstad 
Malmohus           " 
Halland 

G("')teborg            " 
Eltsborg              " 
Skaraborg           " 
Vermland            " 
Orebro                " 
Vestmanland      " 
Kopparberg        " 
Gefleborg            " 
Vesternorrland  " 
Jiimtland            " 
Vesterbotten       " 
Norrbotten         " 

O 

"o 
f- 

T3 

n 
« 

I- 

Total. 

O"^C^00r^mC\(Sv0r^Ovor^Or--00O00\r)»-00-*r~.M 

o 

CO 

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o 

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u 

3 

10,000  and 
over. 

1  1  1  1  1  1  i  1  1  1  1  1  1  1  1-- 1  1-  1-  r- 

5,000—10,000. 

T-CS'-"-,'-CS'J->     |\0     1      1      IvOCSt-i^oO'^CnOoO     I    Mm 

CO 

ON 

3,000—5,000. 

2,000-3,000. 

rr, 

1,000-2,000. 

500—1,000. 

00 
CO 

under  500. 

O 
f- 

z 

>     2 

0!       h 
H       < 
Z       O 

p      w 
o     a: 
o     o 

o 
u 

Stockholm   province.. 
Upsala                 " 
Sodermaniand    " 
Ostergotland       " 
jrmkiiping           " 
Kronoberg          " 
Kalmar                " 
Gotland              •' 
Blekinge              " 
Kristianstad        " 
Malmiihus           " 
Halland 

G()teborg            " 
Elfsborg              " 
Skaraborg           " 
Vermland           " 
Orebro                " 
Vestmanland       " 
Kopparberg        " 
Gefleborg            " 
Vesternorrland   " 
Jiimtland             " 
Vesterbotten 
Norrbotten          " 

0)   « 

j:  o 

I 


^33 


Among  the  congregations  with  more  than  10,000  inhabit- 
ants, there  were  two  country  and  six  city  congregations  with  a 
population  between  15,000-20,000,  and  eleven  city  congregations 
with  more  than  20,000  members. 

Bjereshog  congregation  in  the  province  of  Malmohus  has  the 
least  number,  with  but  116,  and  Ostermalm  the  greatest,  with 

42,407. 

If  we  notice  the  separate  groups,  the  one,  which  includes  con- 
gregations between  1,000-2,000  members,  is  found  to  be  the 
largest,  with  803  in  number,  of  which  29  are  city  congregations. 

The  second  group  follows  wath  705  congregations.  The  very 
small  congregations  (each  less  than  500)  are  345. 

If  a  simpler  presentation  of  the  difference  in  size  of  the  con- 
gregations is  desired,  the  groups  may  be  united  and  can  very  well 
be  presented  as  follows: 

Small  congregations  (less  than  1,000  inhabitants) 1,050 

Medium  sized  congregations  (1,000-3,000  inhabitants) 1,133 

Large  congregations  (3,000-5,000  inhabitants) 209 

Very  large  congregations  (more  than  5,000  inhabitants).  . .  146 

Congregations  are  in  general  small  on  the  early  settled  fertile 
prairies  of  Scane,  Vestergotland,  Ostergotland,  Upland,  and  also 
Gotland,  which  last-named  province  has  no  country  congrega- 
tion with  more  than  1,500  inhabitants.  Congregations  are  large 
especially  in  the  thinly  peopled  region,  where  they  ought  to  be 
small,  as,  for  instance,  in  Vermland,  Dalecarlia  and  Norrland. 
Even  Blekinge,  although  thickly  peopled,  has  very  large  con- 
gregations, which  is  explained  by  the  fact  that  the  increase  in 
population  in  this  province  has  been  unusually  large  during  the 
last  one  hundred  and  fifty  years. 

Sweden  has  very  large  parishes  as  compared  with  most  other 
countries.  Denmark  had  1,721  parishes  in  1868,  which  gave 
about  1,000  inhabitants  to  each  one.  And  as  Gotland  and  Oland 
are  often  pointed  out  as  being  too  richly  endowed  with  churches, 
it  can  be  stated,  that  the  Faroe  Islands,  with  10,000  inhabitants, 
have  not  less  than  40  parishes,  divided  into  seven  pastorates, 
and  the  island  Samos,  whose  population  hardly  exceeds  that  of 
Oland,  has  78  churches,  in  spite  of  the  fact  that  its  area  is  only 
453  square  miles.  In  Norway,  according  to  the  year-book  for 
1896,   there  are  473  pastorates,  and  they  more  often  than  in 

234 


Sweden  include  from  three  to  four  congregations.  These  con- 
gregations are  about  as  large  as  those  in  Sweden,  although  there 
are  not  so  many  very  large  ones  as  with  us.  Christiania  has 
more  territorial  congregations  than  Stockholm,  which  is  nearly 
twice  as  large,  and  Gefle  includes  one  congregation,  while  Stav- 
anger  has  three  or  four.  On  the  other  hand,  Finland  has  a 
more  unfavorable  arrangement,  and  its  condition  reminds  one  of 
northern  Sweden.  In  1872,  there  were  but  339  pastorates.  Their 
congregations  number  about  500,  which  gives  about  5,000  per- 
sons to  each.  Still  more  unfavorably  is  it  arranged  in  the 
provinces  of  the  Baltic,  where  parishes  of  10,000  to  15,000  in- 
habitants are  not  infrequent. 

It  is  certain  that  a  great  number  of  new  congregations  should 
be  established.  If  4,000  inhabitants  are  considered  as  a  maxi- 
mum number  for  a  rural  congregation,  and  12,000  as  a  maximum 
for  a  city  congregation,  then,  according  to  the  census  of  1890, 
189  new  congregations  should  be  created — as  follows:  15  in 
Stockholm,  2  in  the  province  of  Stockholm,  3  in  the  province  of 
Sodermanland,  3  in  the  province  of  Upsala,  8  in  Ostergotland,  i  in 
the  province  of  Jonkoping,  4  in  the  province  of  Kronoberg,  ii 
in  the  province  of  Kalmar,  11  in  Blekinge,  2  in  the  province  of 
Kristianstad,  5  in  the  province  of  Malmohus,  12  in  the  province 
of  Goteborg  and  Bohus,  3  in  the  province  of  Elfsborg,  i  in  the 
province  of  Skaraborg,  14  in  Orebro  province,  17  in  Vermland 
province,  2  in  Vestmanland  province,  15  in  Kopparberg  province, 
16  in  Gefleborg  province,  15  in  Vesternorrland  province,  2  in 
Jamtland  province,  15  in  the  province  of  \'esterbotten,  and  12 
in  the  province  of  Norrbotten.  Since  the  increase  in  population 
is  commonly  greatest  in  the  large  congregations,  it  can  be  said 
that  at  least  200  new  congregations  must  be  founded  in  order 
that  the  most  embarrassing  irregularities  may  be  removed.  Here 
is  a  field  of  labor  for   Home   Missions. 

Pastorates  in  Sweden  usually  include  two  congregations.  In 
the  bishoprics  of  Vesteras  and  Linkoping,  more  often,  there  is 
but  one  congregation  to  each  pastorate.  In  the  bishoprics  of 
Skara  and  Karlstad,  together  with  the  former  Norwegian  prov- 
inces, Jamtland  and  Bohus,  each  pastorate  usually  consists  of 
three  or  four  congregations.  In  the  bishoprics  of  Lund,  Gote- 
borg (with  the  exception  of  Yestergotland  pastorates  in  winter) 
and  Visby.  divine  services  in  pastorates  with  several  churches 
are  maintained    through  duplication.       In    most    other    places 


where  the  number  of  churches  exceeds  the  number  of  ministers, 
services  ahernate. 

The  number  of  churches,  pastorates,  and  congregations,  to- 
gether with  their  average  population  is  presented  in  the  follow- 
ing table: 

TABLE   c. 


BISHOPRIC 

Upsala  bishopric 

Linkoping 
Skara  " 

Strengnas  '* 

Vesteras  "     .  . 

Vexio 

Lund  "     .  . 

Goteborg  " 

Kalmar 

Karlstad  " 

Hernosand 
Visby 

Stockholm   consistory 
Total    


No. 
churches 


272 
207 

343 
166 
136 
181 
429 
268 
69 

133 

205 

93 
15 


No. 
Congre- 
gations. 


249 
213 

372 
171 
129 

185 
441 
271 

68 

139 
189 

93 
18 


2.517  I  2,538 


Estim'd 

average 

Cong. 


No.      I  Ave.  Pop. 
Pastor-    of   Pastor- 
ates,      ates. 


1,877 
1,837 
948 
1,790 
2,818 
1,707 

1,668 
1,962 
2,083 

2,497 
2,840 

552 

13.568 

1,885 


170 
149 
124 
106 
105 
95 
243 
112 

45 

60 

108 

44 
18 


2,749 
2,694 
2,842 
2,888 
3,463 
3,314 
3,014 
4,748 
3,148 
5,785 
4.970 
1,166 
13,568 


1,379!  3,470 


Congregations  in  Visby  and  Skara  bishoprics  are  accordingly 
very  small.  On  the  other  hand,  those  of  Hernosand,  Vesteras, 
Karlstad,  and  Kalmar,  are  very  large.  In  the  bishopric  of  Up- 
sala, the  average  membership  corresponds  very  nearly  to  the 
average  for  the  nation  as  a  whole.  Pastorates  are  also  very 
small  in  Visby  bishopric,  numbering  on  an  average  but  1,166 
inhabitants,  while  a  pastorate  in  Karlstad  bishopric  has  upon  an 
average  5,785. 

The  average  population  of  a  Swedish  congregation  is  1,885, 
and  of  a  Swedish  pastorate  3,470.  In  Denmark,  which  had  988 
pastorates  in  1868,  not  more  than  2,000  persons  came  to  each 
pastor,  but,  as  the  number  of  pastorates  has  been  but  little  in- 
creased since  that  time,  the  average  number  would  in  all  prob- 
ability be  about  2,100.  In  Norway  and  Finland,  on  the  other 
hand,  the  average  is  considerably  larger  than  in  Denmark  and 
Sweden.  In  Sweden  the  number  of  pastorates  has  increased 
during  this  century  by  about  150.  This  is  certainly  not  much 
of  an  increase  when  one  considers  that  the  population  during  the 
same  time  has  been  doubled.     The  number  of  pastorates  in  the 

236 


NORRKOPING  : 
3. 


1.      VIEW   FROM   THE   IKON  BRIDGE.        2.      QLEEN   STREET. 
STRANDWAY   IN   THE   PEOPLE'S   NEW  PARK. 


bishopric  of  Abo  in  Finland  alone  increased  during  the  years 
1830-1872,  from  127  to  171. 

The  reason  for  the  division  into  rural  congregations  with  a 
large  population,  depends  on  the  fact  that  the  greater  part  of 
Sweden  is  thinly  peopled.  Suppose  the  area  of  Sweden  is  8,000 
geographical  square  miles,  then  each  congregation  occupies  3.15 
such  miles,  while,  for  example,  in  Denmark  each  congregation 
occupies  .4  square  miles.  Accordingly,  a  Swedish  congregation 
has  about  eight  times  as  large  an  area  as  a  Danish.  Neverthe- 
less it  should  be  noticed  that  the  northern  provinces  with  their 
large,  thinly  peopled  parishes  in  a  great  measure  cause  the  large 
average.  In  the  bishopric  of  Lund,  a  congregation  includes 
upon  an  average  32.3  square  kilometers,  and  in  Visby  bishopric 
33.9  square  kilometers,  while  in  the  bishopric  of  Hernosand,  a 
congregation  is  spread  out  over  a  surface  of  1,292.2  square  kilo- 
meters. 

The  difference  in  area  of  the  rural  congregations  is  shown  by 
Table  D.  Since  the  area  of  the  city  congregations  is  insignifi- 
cant I  consider  it  unnecessary  to  take  it  into  account. 

As  can  be  expected,  parishes  in  Southern  Sweden  are  com- 
paratively small  in  area,  but  in  Northern  Sweden  they  are  ex- 
traordinarily large.  The  province  of  Malmohus  alone  has  no 
parish  whose  area  exceeds  100  square  kilometers.  On  the  other 
hand,  the  province  of  Norrbotten  has  none,  whose  area  is  less 
than  that  figure..  Next  to  the  province  of  Malmohus  comes 
that  of  Skaraborg,  with  257  parishes  on  8,091.52  square  kilo- 
meters of  land,  which  gives  31.4  square  kilometers  to  each  parish. 

If  Sweden  as  a  whole  were  as  well  supplied  with  churches 
as  the  bishoprics  of  Skara  and  Visby,  the  number  of  churches 
would  be  about  5,200,  or  more  than  twice  as  many  as  now.  Again, 
if  conditions  in  all  of  Sweden  were  the  same  as  in  the  bishoprics 
of  Stockholm,  Hernosand,  Vesteras,  and  Karlstad,  the  number 
of  churches  and  congregations  would  only  amount  to  about  1,500. 
And,  further,  if  the  congregation  of  Ostermalm  were  to  be  consid- 
ered as  the  average,  Sweden  would  have  but  100  pastorates,  but, 
if  Atlingbo  were  to  be  considered  as  the  average  population  of  a 
pastorate,  the  number  of  Swedish  pastorates  would  be  22,256! 


239 


TABLE    D. 


PROVINCE. 


Stockholm  .  .  . , 

Upsala 

Sodermanland 
Ostergotland   . 
Jonkoping    .  . . 
Kronoberg    .  . , 

Kalmar 

Gotland   , 

Blekinge 

Kristianstad  .  . 
Malmohus  .  , .  , 

Halland   

Goteborg   .  . .  . 

Elfsborg 

Skaraborg  .  .  .  , 
Vermland  .  . .  . 

Orebro 

Vesteras   

Kopparberg  .  . 
Gefleborg  .... 
Vesternorrland 

Jamtland    

Vesterbotten  .  . 
Norrbotten   .  . . 


No.  Congregations  with 


Less 

than 

25sq.kil 

i6 

25 
10 

44 
4 
4 
8 

34 

7 

45 

180 

19 
21 

53 

154 

I 

5 
7 
I 

4 
3 


25-50 

50—100 

sq.  kil. 

sq.  kil. 

37 

32 

26 

21 

27 

42 

32 

36 

32 

56 

15 

23 

25 

20 

47 

9 

5 

12 

56 

32 

46 

14 

33 

23 

28 

29 

72 

72 

70 

23 

5 

22 

13 

10 

15 

23 

2 

9 

I 

6 

4 

6 

2 

4 

2 

— 

100-200 
sq.  kil. 

23~ 

9 
II 

30 

32 

35  I 

31  I 

2  I 

II  j 

_9  I 

10 

6 

22 

9 
31 
20 

15 
10 
II 
17 
9 


200-500 

sq.  kil. 


More 

than 

500s. k. 


TotaL 


2 

4 
2 
6 

3 
6 

15 

I 
I 


I 

3 

I 

I 

22 

II 

8 

17 

19 

26 

14 
I 
2 


7 
I 

17 
10 

13 
31 
23 
20 


no 

85 

92 

148 

127 

83 
99 
92 
36 

143 

240 

86 

87 
220 

257 
88 
60 
68 
56 
51 
69 
60 
27 
22 


Total I  646 


595 


524  I  353   166  I  122  j  2,406 


The  Clergy: — 

It  results  from  the  very  nature  of  the  case,  that  Protestantism 
does  not  require  so  intricate  a  system  and  government  for  re- 
ligious activity  as  Romanism.  It  is  also  evident  that  a  congre- 
gation of  the  state  church  can  be  larger  than  a  congregation  of 
a  free  church,  since  in  the  former  there  must  always  be  considered 
a  greater  or  less  number  of  persons  who,  as  far  as  possible,  with- 
draw themselves  from  religious  impressions,  at  least  from  taking 
much  individual  care  of  their  souls.  In  accordance  with  this, 
the  clergy  among  the  Catholics  and  sects  is  comparatively  more 
numerous  than  in  the  Lutheran  Church. 

With  reference  to  the  national  churches  the  proportion  be- 
tween the  clergy  and  laity  in  the  different  European  countries 
is  presented  in  the  following  table  (Brachelli,  Staaten  Europas, 
1876): 

240 


TABLE    E. 

(a)  The  Catholic  Church  in: 

Italy I  priest  for 

Spain 

Portugal    

Switzerland 

Holland ]i 

Germany 

France   

Belgium 

Austria 

Hungary    

Russia 

Great  Britain    

(b)  The  Protestant  churches  have  in: 

France i  clergyman  for 

Great  Britain   

Hungary 

Holland ]' 

Denmark 

Switzerland    

Germany 

Sweden-Norway   

Austria-Hungary   .... 

Finland 

Russia    

As  can  be  expected,  the  country  where  the  pope  lives,  Italy, 
is  especially  well  equipped  with  priests.  Next,  of  course,  comes 
the  arch-Catholic  Spain. 

In  Protestant  countries,  there  is  in  general  one  clergyman  for 
1,200  persons.  Only  Austria-Hungary,  Finland,  and  Russia 
have  a  relatively  less  number  of  clergymen  than  Sweden  and 
Norway.  The  provinces  of  the  Baltic  are  very  poorly  equipped 
in  an  ecclesiastical  way,  and  this  causes  a  very  high  average  in 
Russia.  Since  1876,  the  number  of  Swedish  clergymen  has 
been  somewhat  lessened  and  amounted  to  2,684  i"  1890,  accord- 
ing to  the  Report  to  the  Ofificial  Statistics  of  Sweden,  A.  XXXII: 
3.  This  figure  is  possibly  somewhat  low,  if  all  the  persons,  or- 
dained to  the  service  of  the  Swedish  church,  are  to  be  consid- 
ered. In  any  case,  the  figure  should  by  this  time  be  increased 
by  one  hundred. 

The  population  of  Sweden  on  the  31st  of  Dec,  1894,  was  4.- 
873,183,  and  the  number  of  clergymen  2.776.  which  makes  1,775 
to  each  clergyman.  If  we  revert  to  the  beginning  of  the  century, 
we  find  that  the  number  of  pastors  was  considerably  larger  than 

241 


267  inhabitants. 

419 

536 

540 

680 

812 

823 
1,050 
1. 143 
1. 145 

I,200(?) 
1,320 

794  inhabitants. 
908 

952 
1,100 
1,300 
1,440 
1,600 
1,714 
1,734 
2,268 
3,6qo 


now,  while  the  population  was  about  half  of  what  it  is  at  the 
present  time,  so  that  in  1805  there  was  one  pastor  for  753  inhabit- 
ants. The  number  of  clergymen  at  that  time  was  3,202.  In 
1825  there  were  3,476  (of  these  pastors  and  members  of  the 
higher  clergy,  1,079;  assistant  pastors,  829;  others,  1,568).  In 
1850  the  corresponding  figures  were  3,354-1-103-893-1.358,  while 
in  1896  the  figures  were  2,776-1,328-897-560. 

While  the  number  of  pastors  and  assistant  pastors  since  1825 
has  been  increased  by  317,  the  number  of  others  has  been  de- 
creased to  about  one-third  of  what  it  was  in  1825.  This  change, 
which  must  be  considered  in  the  main  advantageous,  depends 
in  part  upon  the  fact,  that  house-preachers  and  ordained  in- 
structors are  not  now  found;  in  part,  upon  the  fact,  that  school- 
teachers are  now  more  seldom  ordained,  and  in  part,  in  conclu- 
sion, on  a  diminished  desire  to  enter  the  ministry,  and  increased 
claims  with  respect  to  the  fixed  salary  of  the  unpromoted. 

Notwithstanding  the  great  decrease  in  the  number  of  unpro- 
moted, nevertheless  the  number  of  clergymen  ought  to  have 
increased  on  the  whole,  if  new  clerical  positions  had  been  estab- 
lished in  proportion  to  the  increase  in  population.  A  condition 
of  weakness  in  the  Swedish  church  is  undeniably  the  reason  why 
that  has  not  occurred.  Compare,  for  example,  the  great  increase 
in  other  bodies  of  officers,  especially  the  corps  of  teachers.  Thus 
in  several  decades  the  number  of  school-teachers  in  Stockholm 
has  been  many  times  doubled,  while  the  number  of  ministers  is 
about  the  same.  The  pastoral  positions  established  during  this 
century,  number,  supposedly,  as  before  stated,  about  150.  Quite 
a  large  number  of  assistant  pastorships  and  similar  positions  have 
been  created  during  the  last  decades,  but  a  great  number  of 
similar  places  have  alro  1  een  discontinued.  Only  in  the  bishopric 
of  Upsala,  where  undoubtedly  the  over-supply  of  unnecessary 
chapels  was  greatest,  the  number  of  assistant  pastors  in  connec- 
tion with  the  new  administration  of  the  salaries  has  decreased 
from  156  to  113. 

The  number  of  clergymen  in  1890,  the  division  among  the 
different  provinces,  as  to  cities  and  country,  and  the  relation  to 
the  population  is  presented  in  Table  F. 

Gothland  is,  as  it  seems,  best  supplied  with  ministers.  Then 
comes  the  provinces  of  Stockholm,  Skaraborg,  and  Upsala.  The 
city  of  Stockholm  and  the  provinces  of  Blekinge  and  Vester- 
botten,  which  have  more  than  3,000  persons  to  each  clergyman, 

242 


have  the  least  number,  relatively  speaking.  Actually  speaking, 
the  province  of  Skaraborg  has  the  largest  number  of  clergymen, 
and  exceeds  thus  the  fertile  and  richly  populated  province  of 
Malmohus.  The  province  of  Elfsborg  comes  nearest  to  the  aver- 
age, and  the  provinces  of  Kronoberg  and  Kalmar  slightly  under 
the  same.  As  can  be  seen  in  the  fourth  and  fifth  chapter,  a 
numerous  clergy  is  not  always  a  guarantee  of  much  religious 
activity  and  life  in  a  congregation  or  a  clue  against  religious  de- 
fection. Even  in  this  respect  quality  has  more  significance  than 
quantity. 

That  more  pastors  are  needed  in  some  regions,  is,  however, 
an  indisputable  fact.  This  applies  especially  to  the  provinces  of 
Stockholm,  Blekinge,  Goteborg,  Vermland,  Orebro,  Kopparberg, 
and  Gefieborg,  together  with  the  bishopric  of  Hernosand. 


TABLE    F. 


PROVINCE. 


Cities. 

Country. 

64 

6 

131 

15 

89 

i.S 

104 

28 

i«3 

5 

135 

6 

99 

12 

120 

6 

56 

i.^ 

30 

7 

106 

40 

16.S 

8 

66 

39 

74 

8 

150 

14 

202 

12 

lOI 

10 

67 

II 

96 

8 

82 

10 

76 

6 

82 

3 

44 

I 

39 

4 

36 

351 

2,333 

Total. 


Av.  No, 
Members 
for  one 
clergy- 
man. 


Stockholm  (city) 

Stockholm  (province) 

Upsala 

Sodermanland 

Ostergotland 

Jonkoping 

Kronoberg 

Kalmar 

Gotland 

Blekinge 

Kristianstad 

Malmohus 

Halland 

Goteborg 

Elfsborg   

Skaraborg 

Vermland   

Orebro 

Vestmanland   

Kopparberg 

Gefleborg  

Vesternorrland 

Jamtland 

Vesterbotten 

Norrbotten 

"Total  

243 


64 

137 
104 
119 
211 
140 

105 

132 

62 

43 
113 
205 

74 
113 
158 
216 

113 
77 

107 
90 
86 
88 

47 
40 
40 
2:684" 


3,851 
1,114 
1,163 
1,302 
1,263 

1,383 
1,532 
1,556 
828 
3,316 
1,833 
1,799 
1,839 

2,635 
1,745 
1,144 
2,242 

2,371 
1,284 
2,184 
2,406 
2,372 

2,137 
3,069 
2,619 


1,786 


Remark. — Rural  congregations,  which  constitute  additions  to 
city  congregations,  are  included  among  the  cities.  In  cities  there 
i?  a  clergyman  to  every  2,848  persons,  but  in  the  country  one  for 
every  1,665  persons.  In  reality  the  present  situation  in  many 
parts  presupposes  that  a  great  number  of  members  in  the  different 
congregations  withdraw  themselves  from  religious  activity.  If 
this  were  not  the  case,  how  could  a  pastor  get  along,  if,  for 
example,  half  of  the  30,000  communicants,  which  are  found  in  the 
congregation  of  Ostermalm,  desired  to  partake  of  the  Lord's  sup- 
per every  time  or  at  least  every  other  time  that  there  was  com- 
munion? Or  if  the  majority  wished  to  solicit  spiritual  guidance 
from  the  curate  of  souls!  I  have,  however,  in  the  calculation  of 
the  sufficiency  of  the  clerical  strength  for  the  people  included  both 
regular  and  auxiliary  clergymen.  In  reality  only  the  former 
should  be  considered,  since  the  latter,  in  general,  but  step  in 
where  the  former  could  not  fulfill  their  duties. 

Conditions  should  evidently  thus  be  presented  in  a  still  more 
unfavorable  light. 

To  report  the  number  of  regular  clerical  positions  is  quite 
difficult,  since  one  is  continually  in  doubt  concerning  many  of 
them  as  to  how  they  should  be  considered.  That  is  often  the 
case,  for  example,  with  assistants,  school  preachers,  and  the  like. 
Pastoral  positions  are  of  course  as  numerous  as  pastorates.  Only 
in  one  case  has  one  man  two  pastorates,  viz.:  the  dean  of  Upsala. 
Assistant  pastorships  and  similar  positions  number  912  according 
to  the  report,  concerning  the  regulation  of  clergymen's  salaries, 
which  is  found  in  P.  Rydholm's  edition  of  the  Church  Laws  of 
Sweden.  Pastoral  and  clerical  positions  in  Sweden  were,  in  1890, 
said  to  number  collectively,  2,291.  In  order  to  get  a  proper  con- 
ception of  the  number  of  regub.r  clerical  positions,  it  is  necessary 
to  increase  this  figure  by  about  twenty  from  the  fact  that  some 
school  preachers  and  the  like  have  clerical  duties  and  besides  not 
a  few  adjuncts  to  pastorates  have  been  instituted  during  the  last 
few  years.  Since  I  have  not  included  in  this  examination  of  the 
relation  between  clerical  positions  and  the  population  the  royal 
consistory  of  Stockholm,  or  military  congregations  in  general, 
the  number  remains  at  2,303. 


244 


The  relation  between  clerical  positions  and  the  population. 

TABLE    G. 


M 

- 

J* 

05 
0 

2 

BISHOPRIC. 

rs 

1 

1 

0 
1 

an 

H 
0 

g? 

iO 

w 

>b. 

Sr^- 

u 

w 

s 

8 
p 

§ 

0 

Upsala 

Bishopric.  . 

.   89 

131 

35 

20 

13 

288 

Linkoping 

•     92 

121 

30 

II 

9 

263 

Skara 

.    61 

136 

33 

5 

3 

238 

Strengnas 

•    51 

95 

21 

12 

6 

186 

Vesteras 

.    40 

,S8 

52 

16 

II 

177 

Vexio 

.   38 

124 

25 

5 

6 

198 

Lund 

21 

91 

68 

44 

46 

270 

Goteborg 

4 

72 

54 

36 

28 

194 

Kalmar 

•      23 

31 

9 

15 

2 

80 

Karlstad 

2 

36 

58 

21 

17 

134 

Hernosand 

I 

59 

75 

36 

21 

192 

Visbv 

.      28 

19 

3 

— 

50 

Stockholm 

Consistory.  . . 

.      — 

3 

4 

— 

26 

33 

Total 

•    450 

977 

467 

221 

178 

2,303 

The  second  column  has  the  largest  number  and  the  last  col- 
umn, which  represents  abnormal  conditions,  the  least,  and  it  never- 
theless amounts  to  178.  Except  Stockholm  it  is  especially  the 
bishoprics  of  Lund  and  Goteborg  which  give  the  largest  contri- 
butions to  this  column. 

Four  hundred  and  fifty  of  Sweden's  pastors  labor  in  congre- 
gations whose  size  allows  them  to  become  acquainted  wdth  all  of 
their  parishioners.  This  applies  principally  to  almost  the  whole 
of  Gotland  and  in  general  to  the  congregations  on  the  fertile 
prairie  lands.  There  was  upon  an  average  in  Sweden  in  1890  an 
ordinary  clerical  position  to  every  2,088  inhabitants  (in  Upsala 
bishopric  one  to  1,521,  in  Linkoping  one  to  1,517,  in  Skara  one 
to  1,487,  in  Strengnas  one  to  1,659,  ^"  Vesteras  one  to  i,955'  i^ 
Vexio  one  to  1,606,  in  Lund  one  to  2,703,  in  Goteborg  one  to 
2,750,  in  Kalmar  one  to  1,793,  in  Karlstad  one  to  2,571,  in  Herno- 
sand one  to  2,810,  and  in  Visby  one  to  1.047).  Since  then  the 
average  should  have  been  increased  not  a  little.  The  high  aver- 
age in  the  bishopric  of  Lund  is  caused  by  the  absence  of  assist- 
ant pastorships.  Blekinge  and  the  large  cities  also  contribute 
much  to  the  raising  of  the  average.  Take  away  Blekinge,  Malmo 
and  Helsingborg,  which  for  a  population  of  211,316  persons  in 
1890  had  but  42  clerical  positions,  and  the  average  for  the  re- 

245 


mainder  would  be  but  2,286  for  the  bishopric.  In  order  that  the 
last  column  with  the  figures  178  should  disappear,  it  would  be 
necessary  to  create  200  new  places.  How  necessary  this  is,  even 
if  we  do  not  consider  that  the  clergyman  should  be  the  curate  of 
the  whole  congregation,  can  be  understood  from  the  fact  that  the 
number  of  catechumens  confirmed  in  a  congregation  of  4,000 
inhabitants  used  to  be  from  70  to  80.  On  the  other  hand  a  great 
number  of  unnecessary  assistant  pastorships  could  be  and  ought 
to  be  discontinued,  especially  in  Upland  and  Ostergotland.  Again 
to  unite  pastorates — as  has  been  proposed  this  year  in  the  Swed- 
ish Congress — can  hardly  be  looked  upon  as  a  wise  step  by  one 
acquainted  with  conditions,  especially  in  our  own  times,  which 
place  greater  responsibility  on  a  pastor  than  formerly,  and  in  our 
land,  where  pastorates  are  in  general  already  too  large. 

If  we  pass  over  now  to  the  conditions  of  promotion  in  the 
Swedish  church,  the  attention  of  anyone,  who  has  some  knowl- 
edge of  conditions  in  other  countries,  is  attracted  by  the  singular 
fact  that  hardly  half  of  the  Swedish  clergymen  are  regular  pastors. 
Nevertheless,  the  situation  is,  as  before  stated,  considerably  more 
favorable  than  formerly.  Some  little  progress  in  this  improve- 
ment can,  however,  not  be  taken  into  account,  since  the  number 
of  unpromoted  is  at  a  minimum  and  the  new  places,  which  will 
be  established  in  the  near  future,  are  more  often  assistant  pastor- 
ships and  ordinary  adjunct  positions  than  regular  pastorates. 

In  order  to  get  an  idea  as  to  the  length  of  time  required  before 
a  clergyman  in  the  Swedish  church  becomes  a  pastor,  I  have 
examined  the  registers  of  three  bishoprics,  Skara  (1896),  Streng- 
nas  (1892),  and  Lund  (1886).  In  the  first  named  bishopric  the 
age  of  clergymen  was  upon  an  average  45 . 6  years  and  length  of 
service  17.9  years  at  their  first  promotion  to  a  pastorate.  In  the 
second  the  figures  were  respectively  41.3  and  14.4  years,  and  in 
the  third  43  and  15.4.  The  number  of  those  who  were  more  than 
50  years  of  age  at  their  first  appointment  was  in  Strengnas  16,  and 
in  Lund  43.  The  number  who  had  served  more  than  20  years 
were  in  the  bishopric  of  Skara  29,  in  Strengnas  22,  and  in  Lund 
63.  With  years  of  service  we  mean  in  this  case  the  number  of 
years  that  has  elapsed  after  ordination.  If  we  add  to  this  service 
as  teachers,  etc.,  and  if  we  consider  the  fact  that  patrons  generally 
call  younger  men  as  pastors,  it  can  be  readily  seen  that  the  aver- 
age age  for  those  who  win  promotion  in  the  usual  way  is  con- 
siderably higher.     Since  the  proportion  between  pastorates  and 

246 


the  number  of  clergymen  at  least  in  the  bishoprics  of  Strengnas 
and  Lund  is  quite  favorable,  the  average  for  the  whole  nation 
could  hardly  be  more  advantageous  than  in  these  bishoprics,  but 
slightly  better  than  in  Skara.  At  45  years  of  age  and  after  17 
years  of  service  a  Swedish  clergyman  has,  according  to  these 
facts,  a  prospect  of  becoming  a  pastor  in  a  small  pastorate.  On 
account  of  an  increased  course  of  study  and  other  circumstances 
the  age  at  ordination,  however,  has  been  advanced  in  later  times 
to  about  30  years  upon  an  average,  wherefore  the  age  at  pro- 
motion to  pastorship  would  be  somewhat  more  advanced. 

The  new  clerical  laws  of  promotion  take  relatively  less  notice 
of  educational  requirements.  As  a  result  thereof  the  number  of 
preachers  who  have  pursued  academical  subjects  other  than  those 
required,  has  been  lessened.  Especially  does  this  apply  with 
respect  to  the  degree  of  Doctor  of  Philosophy.  There  are  but 
about  ten  ordained  licentiates  in  Philosophy  now  in  Sweden. 
Excepting  the  instructors  at  Universities  and  Colleges,  there  are 
about  250  or  9  per  cent  of  the  clergymen  of  Sweden  who  have 
passed  examinations  as  licentiates  in  philosophy  or  theology  or 
are  Doctors  of  Divinity.  The  largest  number  of  such  clergymen 
is  found  in  the  bishopric  of  Lund  (58),  and  least  in  the  bishoprics 
of  Kalmar  (4),  and  Visby  (4). 

It  is  a  singular  fact,  worthy  of  honor  and  respect,  that  the 
corps  of  officials  in  Sweden  is  recruited  from  all  classes  of  society. 
This  applies  especially  to  the  clergy  which  ever  since  the  reforma- 
tion has  encouraged  people  to  rotate  as  to  the  professions.  Min- 
isters' sons  and  farmers'  sons  have  most  frequently  devoted  them- 
selves to  the  clerical  vocation.  In  later  times,  however,  this  con- 
dition has  been  somewhat  changed.  While  during  the  years 
1700.  1780  and  1820,  40  per  cent  of  the  pastors  of  the  bishopric  of 
Lund  were  ministers'  sons,  in  1878  there  was  but  28  per  cent. 
In  1891,  68  clergymen  in  the  bishopric  of  Upsala  were  ministers* 
sons  and  in  the  bishopric  of  Strengnas  39,  in  the  bishopric  of 
Lund  (1886)  no,  in  Goteborg  60,  and  in  Skara  (1896)  6y.  In 
case  that  conditions  in  the  remaining  bishoprics  does  not  dififer 
too  much  from  those  given,  about  25  per  cent  of  the  pastors  of 
Sweden  have  come  from  the  homes  of  clergymen.  This  condi- 
tion goes  to  show  that,  even  though  we  now  take  more  notice 
than  formerly  of  an  inner  calling,  nevertheless  ministers'  homes 
often  produce  a  love  for  the  ministry. 

251 


Conditions  With  Respect  to  Salaries  and  other  Expenses  for  Re- 
Hgious  Purposes. 

The  expenses  of  religious  work  are  defrayed  in  part  by  taxes, 
of  which  the  setting  apart  of  tithes  is  the  most  important,  in  part 
through  the  rent  of  estates,  farms,  and  lands  which  are  either 
donated,  procured  by  the  congregation  or  granted  by  the  crown, 
and  in  part  by  gifts,  collections,  and  subscriptions. 

Tithes  were  introduced  into  Sweden,  according  to  some  ac- 
counts, already  at  the  time  of  Knute  Erikson,  according  to  others, 
in  1290  at  a  diet  in  Askerback  (or  Alleback).  They  were  intended 
to  be  used  for  the  salaries  of  the  clergy,  and  the  support  of  the 
church  and  the  poor. 

It  is  well  known  that,  when  Gustavus  Vasa  put  under  the 
crown  the  property  of  the  church  and  the  ministry,  he  also  took 
away  from  them  two-thirds  of  the  tithes  and  placed  those  also 
under  the  rule  of  the  crown.  This  part,  therefore,  received  the 
name  of  crown  tithes.  Through  this  he  deprived  the  clergy  not 
only  of  that  part  of  the  tithes  which  had  been  alloted  to  the  poor, 
so  that  the  whole  support  of  the  poor  fell  upon  the  communities 
in  which  they  lived,  but  also  of  that  part  which  had  been  granted 
the  support  of  the  church,  so  that  now  this  must  be  paid  by  the 
congregations.  This  was  in  reality  in  order  to  impose  on  estates 
two  altogether  new  municipal  taxes,  from  which  they  had  hitherto 
been  exempt. 

The  salary  regulating  fund  was  formed  in  connection  with 
the  new  salary  regulations  as  a  result  of  the  decree  of  congress 
in  1862.  The  fund,  which  according  to  the  congressional  letter 
of  June  29,  1866,  has  the  privilege  of  using  the  income  from  the 
forests  on  ecclesiastical  lands  which  are  not  divided  among  the 
proprietors,  had,  at  the  close  of  the  year  J887,  a  balance  in  its 
favor  of  1,310,676  crowns.  Since  then  it  has  been  considerably 
increased  and,  at  the  close  of  the  year  1894,  consisted  of  2,345,327 
crowns.  The  income  of  the  fund,  which  during  the  year  1891 
amounted  to  252,324  crowns,  comes  chiefly  from  the  sale  of  tim- 
ber. Farm  rents  and  revenues  constituted  during  the  years 
1872-91  824,658  crowns.  Interest  and  gain  in  capital  have  been 
increased  during  the  same  time  to  773,073  crowns.  The  money 
from  the  sale  of  timber  comes  into  the  treasury  chiefly  from  north- 
ern Sweden;  farm  rents  on  the  other  hand,  principally  from  the 
southern  districts.  The  disbursements  of  the  fund,  the  greater 
part  appropriations  for  the  payment  of  salaries,  were  in  1882; 

252 


79,8/9  crowns,  in  1885,  97,994,  in  1888,  109,252,  and  in  189T, 
155,676. 

The  taxable  value  of  parsonages  and  other  lands  appropriated 
for  the  payment  of  the  clergy  amounted  in  1886  to  54,511,318 
crowns,  of  which  45,677,985  crowns  were  for  parsonages  of 
pastors  and  salary  paying  estates.  Divided  among,  in  round 
numbers,  2,200  benefices,  this  would  be  a  taxable  value  of  2^,yyy 
crowns  for  each.  Some  of  the  residences  are  hardly  larger  than 
cottages,  while  others  are  large  estates.  Some  of  the  smaller 
estates  here  included  are  chiefly  in  Skane  and  Vestergotland — the 
country  where  congregations  are  usually  more  numerous  than 
clergymen.  The  corresponding  estates  in  the  bishopric  of  Gote- 
borg  are  often  granted  as  widows'  homes,  the  number  now 
amounts  to  75  with  a  combined  taxable  value  of  987,400  crowns, 
which  on  the  average  allows  13,165  for  each.  For  the  sake  of 
comparison,  it  may  be  stated  that  the  taxable  value  of  parsonages 
in  Denmark,  which  has  but  about  1,000  clerical  positions,  con- 
stituted about  48,000,000  crowns,  and  the  income  from  the  same 
was  about  1,470,000  crowns. 

The  church  and  clerical  estate  withdrawn  by  Gustavus  I. 
numbered  about  6.300,  while  the  whole  number  of  estates  with- 
drawn from  the  church  was  about  13,700. 

How  large  the  reduction  of  property  belonging  to  the  clergy 
and  church  really  was  can  be  conceived,  if  one  considers  that  at 
the  beginning  of  the  Reformation  there  were  clergymen  who 
ruled  over  from  three  to  six  estates  with  from  ten  to  thirty  ten- 
ants. 

The  income  of  the  clergy  and  the  different  sources  from  which 
it  comes  are  presented  in  the  following  table  of  statistics: 


253 


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u-> 

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NO 

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o\ 

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allow 

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Regu 

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254 


The  payment  by  the  congregations  accordingly  amounted  to 
^,']%2,']2'j  crowns.  The  corresponding  figures  in  1893  were 
5,487,966.  It  may  be  noted  that  the  dues  of  city  congregations 
during  the  seven  years  was  increased  by  28,375  crowns;  also  that, 
as  a  result  of  the  decisions  of  the  salary  convention  in  some  pas- 
torates salaries  in  these  cities  have  been  considerably  increased 
from  which  follows  that  the  decrease  in  general  was  in  reality  still 
greater  than  at  first  sight. 

If  we  take  the  population  for  1893  as  a  divisor,  the  clerical  tax 
this  year  for  every  Swedish  citizen  was  1.21  crowns,  or  about  34 
cents.  In  reality  this  tax,  as  well  as  several  others,  is  very  un- 
evenly divided  both  in  relation  to  the  population  and  with  respect 
to  the  sums  required  for  the  right  of  suffrage.  In  general  the 
clerical  tax  in  cities  is  considerably  lighter  than  in  rural  districts. 
This  tax  for  all  of  the  cities  and  boroughs  of  Sweden  amounted 
in  1890  to  but  713,716  crowns,  in  which  connection  it  besides 
should  be  noted  that  the  dues  from  the  majority  of  rural  congre- 
gations united  with  cities  are  included  in  this  amount. 

Even  in  relation  to  the  value  of  real  estate  and  other  income, 
dues  are  very  unevenly  divided. 

Paid  in  1886,  58,926  crowns  in  receipts  for  poll-taxes. 

Any  one  who  desires  to  form  a  judgment  concerning  the 
relation  between  the  population  and  the  dues  for  the  salaries  of 
the  clergy  as  well  as  for  church  purposes  as  a  whole,  can  do  so 
with  reference  to  the  compendium  which  follows: 


255 


TABLE    I. 


PROVINCE. 
(Country.) 

Population. 

Valuation. 

Disbursements 
for  church 
purposes. 

Salaries 

for 

clergymen. 

Stockholm  .  ,   .  . 

Upsala 

Sodermanland  .  . 
Ostergotland  .  .  . 
jonkoping  .  .    .  . 
Kronoberg  .  .   .  . 

Kalmar 

Gotland 

Blekinge 

Kristianstad.   . .  . 
Malmohus  . .    .  . 

Halland 

Goteborg 

Elfsborg 

Skaraborg 

Vermland 

Orebro 

Vestmanland  .    . 
Kopparberg  .   .  . 

Gefleborg 

Vesternorrland   . 

Jamtland 

Vesterbotten  .  .  . 
Norrbotten  .  .  .  . 

141,782 
97,410 
135,612 
212,087 
166,373 

151,630 
199,322 

43,926 
109,665 
204,727 
260,705 
115,516 
180,165 
250,276 
221,761 
227,940 
166,253 
116,609 
191,087 
172,181 
189,514 

95.446 
124,036 
100,371 

1,210,325 
738,581 
956,250 

1,492,530 
841,090 
630,646 
950,612 

273,317 

453.586 
1,193.510 
2,691,046 

548,123 
1,086,741 
1,116,232 
1,273,220 
1,240,059 
1,288,694 

883,778 
1,190,634 
1,248,959 

1,459,785 
462,514 

524,341 
453-423 

363,665 
272,783 
328,081 

471-544 
315,150 
252,484 
375,116 
110,688 

112,499 
534.785 
745.385 
326,360 
315,426 
417,154 
495.730 
370,451 
275,585 
328,676 

373,413 
383,826 
363,165 

175.419 
201,013 

167,033 

227,419 
172,142 

198,313 
299,440 

171,501 
150,443 
215,329 
69,147 
60,805 
322,746 
491,800 
154,606 
177,082 

257,939 
242,927 
211,812 
161,072 
198,764 
237,922 
203.474 
206,006 
106,909 

137,764 
98,888 

Total 

3,874,394 

24,207,996 

8,075,404 

4,774.250 

After  this  examination  into  the  relation  of  the  preachers' 
salaries  to  the  taxable  property,  I  pass  over  to  their  division  in 
the  body  of  the  clergy.  The  clergy  consists,  if  I  have  counted 
correctly,  according  to  the  last  register,  of  2,776  persons.  If  we 
do  not  include  those  who  have  no  share  in  the  aforesaid  fund, 
but  are  included  among  the  unpromoted  clergymen,  the  figure 
would  be  about  2,700.  Since  7.373,965  crowns  are  to  be  divided 
among  these,  each  clergyman  would  get  upon  an  average  about 
2,730  crowns. 

The  division  of  the  clergymen's  salaries  among  pastors  and 
assistant  pastors  appears  in  the  following  table: 


256 


TABLE   J. 

Bishopric. 

No. 

Dues  in  ready 
money. 

Taxable  value 
of  parsonages. 

Salary  allowed 

by  Salary 

Regulating 

Committee. 

Average 
salary 
for  each 
position 

Pastors 
Upsala  ..... 
Linkoping  . . 

Skara 

Strengnas  .  . 
Vesteras    . .  . 
Vexio    .    ... 

Lund 

Goteborg   .  . 
Kalmar  .  .    . 
Karlstad  .  .  . 
Hernosand  . 

Visby 

Stockholm 
Consistory    . 

167 

150 
122 

105 
104 

94 
240 
109 

44 

62 

104 

43 

8 

555,694 
417,428 
306,008 
329,780 
389,853 
249,035 
1,067,261 

462,433 
134,937 
223,095 

460,343 
111,094 

54,468 

5,240,491 
4,968,500 
5,342,300 
3,607,460 
2,742,450 
2,551,167 
12,232,093 
2,422,080 
1,108,000 
2,278,172 
1,969,122 
1,216,150 

660,570 
585,045 
474,965 
443,165 
439,540 
314,260 

1,297,745 
499,540 
174,910 
281,635 
404,680 
136,510 

72,660 

3,956 
3,900 

3,893 
4,221 
4,226 

3,343 
5,407 
4,583 

3,975 
4,543 
3,891 
3,175 

9,083 

Total  .. 

1,352 

4,761,429 

45,677,985 

5,785,225 

4,279 

TABLE    K. 


Salary  allowed 

Average 

. 

Dues  in  ready 

Taxable  value 

by  Salary 

salary 

money. 

of  parsonages. 

Regulating 
Committee. 

for  each 
position 

Assistant 

Pastors 

Upsala  .... 

112 

163,902 

855,810 

188,310 

1,681 

Linkoping.  . 

no 

128,487 

1,193,715 

165,670 

1,506 

Skara 

113 

122,093 

1,523,785 

171,260 

I.516 

Strengnas  .  . 

78 

106,667 

797,530 

133,790 

1,715 

Vesteras   .    . 

71 

133,952 

471,912 

140,705 

1,982 

Vexio 

lOI 

119,543 

893,560 

141,090 

1,397 

Lund 

29 

48,076 

661,500 

64,360 

2,219 

Goteborg   .  . 

81 

153,196 

607,700 

159.030 

1,963 

Kalmar  .  .    . 

34 

41,648 

337,500 

56,170 

1,652 

Karlstad   .  .  . 

75 

113,755 

851,667 

139,205 

1,856 

Hernosand   . 

83 

141,683 

462,454 

141,110 

1,700 

Visbv 

6 

5,697 

84,200 

7,600 

1,267 

Stockholm 

Consistory    . 

19 

76,520 

80,440 

4,234 

Total  .  . 

912 

1,355,219 

8,741,333 

1,588,740 

1,742 

As  appears,  the  clergy  are  paid  best  in  the  most  northerly  and 
the  most  southerly  bishoprics  and  also  in  the  eastern  dioceses. 
A  Swedish  pastor  has  on  an  average  4,279  crowns  as  salary.  In 
this,  on  the  one  hand,  is  included  in  some  parts  free  residence 

257 


and  in  some  places  forests.  On  the  other  hand  we  note  a  deduc- 
tion for  fees  and  the  support  of  some  houses,  dues  to  the  treas- 
ury, and  the  expenses  of  coachmen.  Pastors  in  Scania  and  some 
pastors  in  the  bishopric  of  Goteborg  pay  the  expenses  of  their 
residences.  In  Scania  this  happens  through  the  mediation  of 
the  Scanian  clergymen's  building  treasury.  The  yearly  dues  to 
this  treasury  for  1886  was  1 13,246  crowns,  which  gives  596  crowns 
to  each  member  or  about  11  per  cent  of  the  salary.  For  eleven 
members  the  year's  contribution  amounted  to  a  thousand  crowns' 
for  each,  a  considerable  reduction  from  the  nominal  salary. 

If  pastorates  are  divided  according  to  their  revenues  we  find 
that  178  pastorates  afford  more  than  6,000  crowns  in  salary  (of 
these  91  are  situated  in  the  bishopric  of  Lund),  525  afford  4,000, 
5,999,  and  660  or  about  half  the  number  of  pastorial  places  afford 
less  than  4,000.  In  the  last  group  are  included  the  majority  of 
pastorates  in  all  bishoprics  with  the  exception  of  the  bishoprics 
of  Lund,  Goteborg,  Strengnas  and  Karlstad.  A  salary  of  more 
than  10,000  crowns  is  allowed  in  but  four  pastorates,  viz.:  Klara, 
Jacob,  the  congregation  of  Goteborg's  Cathedral  and  Skelleftea. 
On  the  other  hand  there  are  no  less  than  239  pastors  whose  sal- 
aries do  not  amount  to  more  than  3,000  crowns  each. 

Assistant  pastors  in  Sweden  have  on  an  average  1,772  crowns 
in  salary.  If  we  deduct  those  places  when  the  salaries  amount  to 
more  than  2,000  crowns — they  are  about  200 — the  average  figure 
would  hardly  reach  1,500,  and  if  we  include  the  yearly  expenses 
for  buildings  and  the  support  of  the  houses  of  each  benefice,  con- 
sidering it  at  200  crowns,  the  average  sum  would  be  1,300  crowns. 
In  reality  the  salaries  as  they  were  allowed  at  the  apportionment  of 
the  salary  regulation  committee,  combined  with  the  salary  allowed 
by  His  Royal  Majesty  were  for  14  assistant  pastors  1,100  crowns 
each  or  under,  for  140,  1,100-1,300,  for  260,  1,300-1,500,  and  for 
140  1,500-1,700  crowns. 

If  we  pass  over  now  to  other  expenses  for  church  purposes, 
the  presentation  need  be  only  very  brief. 

The  church  warden's  salary  is  generally  so  inconsiderable  that 
it  should  not  be  taken  into  account.  In  the  bishoprics  of  Lund 
and  Goteborg  it  commonly  happens  that  the  congregation  has 
an  accountant,  whose  salary  seldom  is  more  than  3  crowns.  The 
other  church  servants  are:  Sexton,  organist,  chanter,  beadle, 
fireman,  bellows-treader,  ringer  and  grave-digger.  It  is  evident 
that  not  all  of  these  officers  are  found  in  each  church. 

.   258 


The  salaries  of  the  sexton  and  organist  have  at  the  last  regula- 
tion of  salaries  been  greatly  reduced.  In  many  places,  especially 
in  the  bishopric  of  Skara,  the  salary  of  the  sexton  does  not  amount 
to  lOO  crowns  and  very  seldom  are  the  salaries  of  the  organist 
and  sexton,  combined,  200  crowns. 


TABLE  L. 


BISHOPRIC. 


Salaries  in 
ready  money. 


Taxable  value 
of  residences 

with 
agriculture. 


Upsala        Bishopric. 

Linkoping 

Skara 

Strengnas 

Vesteras 

Vexio 

Lund 

Goteborg 

Kalmar 

Karlstad 

Hernosand 

Visby 

Stockholm  Consistory 

Stockholm  Royal  Consistory 


124,975 

100,588 

66,594 

76,206 

80,157 

72,220 

219,085 

151,662 

28,330 

56,273 

80,499 

11,987 

89,615 

1,901 


98,125 

109,400 

112,000 

57,000 

94,502 

24,800 

1,291,560 

249,300 

2,700 

56,800 

35,600 

5,700 


Total 


1,160,092 


2,137487 


Besides  these  salaries  it  happens  often  that  these  officers 
receive  free  residences,  one  or  more  collections,  compensation  for 
employment,  etc.  The  sexton's  residence,  w^here  it  exists,  is  gen- 
erally inconsiderable,  but  at  times  it  may  be  as  large  as  an  average 
parsonage. 

The  combined  disbursements  for  church  purposes  constituted 
10,848,190  crowns  in  1893.  For  the  public  schools  disburse- 
ments for  the  same  year  14,351,507  crowns.  In  1888  the  figures 
were  respectively  9,965,054  crow^ns  and  12,195,400  crowns,  from 
which  it  appears  that  the  budget  of  the  public  school  is  yet  in 
strong  progression.  The  difference  becomes  greater  between  the 
disbursements  for  church  purposes  and  for  the  public  school  if  we 
consider  the  relation  in  cities.  While  the  disbursements  for  the 
former  in  1893  constituted  2,772,786  crowns  (house  and  in- 
ventories 1,183,059,  salaries  for  clergymen  713,716,  church  serv- 
ants 347,543,  other  expenses  528,468),  the  disbursements  for  the 
public  schools  were  4,630,078  crowns  (house  and  inventories  958,- 

261 


5o6  crowns,  salaries  2,770,108  crowns,  the  other  expenses  901,464 
crowns.) 

When  disbursements  for  church  purposes  are  considered  we 
should  remember  that  not  all  of  these  means  are  derived  through 
assessments.  A  very  large  number  of  churches  have  consider- 
able church  treasuries,  and  in  the  bishoprics  of  Lund  and  Gote- 
borg,  especially  in  the  former,  the  churches  own  estates  whose 
revenues  are  sufficient  and  occasionally  more  than  sufficient  for 
the  support  of  the  church.  How  great  an  amount  the  church 
treasuries  of  Sweden  at  present  contain  I  am  not  able  to  report, 
but  the  figures  would  hardly  fall  under  10  millions  of  crowns, 
although  a  great  number  of  the  churches  have  no  balance  in  the 
treasury  worthy  of  mention.  In  the  bishopric  of  Lund  the 
reserve  was  in  1876,  after  debts  had  been  deducted,  2,636,801 
crowns,  and  in  the  bishopric  of  Linkoping  (1895)  1,365,168,  but 
debts  were  215,395  crowns.  In  the  most  of  the  bishoprics  the 
figures  are,  however,  considerably  less.  In  the  bishopric  of 
Strengnas  (1890)  the  reserve  or  balance  of  the  church  treasury, 
after  debts  had  been  deducted,  was  but  232,441  crowns. 

Dissenters  and  Separatists. 

Sweden  enjoys  the  advantage  of  a  comparatively  great 
ecclesiastical  unity.  While  in  several  Germanic  countries  the 
population,  in  religious  respects,  is  divided  into  two  or  more  par- 
ties of  nearly  the  same  strength,  and  while  not  only  liberal  Eng- 
land but  also  the  despotically  governed  Russia,  have  long  been 
supplied  with  sects  of  Non-Conformists,  Sweden  has  up  to  the 
very  latest  years  presented  a  united  and  unanimous  people  on 
religious  questions.  In  spite  of  the  fact  that  these  conditions 
have  been  considerably  changed  in  the  last  thirty  years,  never- 
theless, according  to  official  reports,  99  per  cent  of  our  people 
belong  to  the  Swedish  Lutheran  Church,  and  if  we  reckon  as 
belonging  to  the  State  Church  all  who  have  not  legally  with- 
drawn from  it,  the  per  cent  would  be  99.9,  since  the  number  of 
those  who  have  legally  withdrawn  was  in  1890  but  4,277  per- 
sons. 

The  whole  number  of  those  differing  from  our  church,  in- 
cluding the  unbaptized  children,  was,  according  to  official  reports 
for  1890,  49,763.  This  number  is  too  low,  as  I  shall  show  fur- 
ther on.  However,  of  the  number  given  not  less  than  23,307 
were  unbaptized  children,  12,500  Baptists  and  5,143  Methodists. 

262 


The  time  during  which  the  defection  from  the  State  Church 
was  greatest  seems  to  have  been  between  1870  and  1890.  Since 
that  time  both  the  five-year  reports  of  the  governors  of  the 
provinces,  and  the  reports  of  the  bishops  state  that  tlie  propa- 
ganda of  Dissenters  and  Separatists  no  longer  have  the  same 
progress  as  before. 

Thus,  for  example,  the  governor  in  the  province  of  Upsala,  in 
his  five-year  report,  says,  concerning  Separatism:  "This  move- 
ment has  in  a  great  number  of  congregations  in  the  southern 
part  of  the  province  almost  entirely  died  out.  In  large  tracts  of 
this  part  of  the  province,  not  a  Separatist  can  now  be  found.  In 
the  rural  districts  of  the  province  not  less  than  38  are  in  the 
northern  part."  In  a  like  manner  in  the  province  of  Kalmar: 
"Rather  stagnant  or  retrogressive,  at  least  with  respect  to  genu- 
ine Separatism."  Concerning  the  province  of  Vesteras,  the  five- 
year  report  says:  "With  respect  to  the  religious  movements, 
especially  those  of  a  Separatistic  nature,  they  can  not  be  said  to 
have  increased,  but  rather  weakened.  The  exterior  expression 
for  them  remains,  of  course,  the  same,  but  interest  has  de- 
creased." And  in  the  corresponding  report  for  the  province  of 
Jamtland,  we  read:  "In  the  schismatic  movement  nothing  has 
occurred  during  the  five  years  which  is  of  noteworthy  interest. 
The  only  thing  that  can  be  stated,  is  that  these  movements  have 
made  no  progress,  and  one  is  even  warranted  in  saying  that 
the  Baptists,  which  is  the  most  widespread  of  these  sects,  in  this 
province  is  retrogressing,  so  that  the  influence  which  this  move- 
ment has  long  exercised  has  been  lessened  considerably."  It  is 
communicated  from  the  province  of  Blekinge  that  the  member- 
ship of  the  Methodist  congregation  in  Karlskrona  during  the 
period  (1885- 1890)  decreased  from  416  to  278.  And,  at  the  last 
synod  of  the  bishopric  of  Goteborg,  it  was  reported,  that  the 
Methodist  congregation  in  Humelstad  was  dissolved  and  their 
meeting-house  torn  down. 

If  we  now  pass  over  to  the  Dissenters'  geographical  extension 
in  our  land,  we  notice  immediately  that  this  is  very  changeable. 
In  the  exhibit  we  give  below  the  official  figures  from  reports  of 
the  State  Central  Bureau  have  been  followed,  even  though  these 
figures  are  too  lov\^: 


263 


TABLE    M. 


BISHOPRIC. 


Upsala  .... 
Linkoping  .  . 

Skara 

Strengnas  .  . 
Vesteras   .  . . 

Vexio  

Lund 

Goteborg  .  . . 
Kalmar  .... 
Karlstad  .  .  . 
Hernosand   . 

Visby   

Consistory 
Stockholm 


of 


341  I      528  I      800 


0 

Metho- 

Uabap- 

Others 

0 
0 

dists. 

Baptists. 

tized 

Unbap- 

3 

children. 

tlzed. 

3 

758 

1,646 

3.9S6 

237 

98 

916 

821 

1.579 

54 

60 

25 

136 

640 

13 

12 

515 

2,097 

3,2^7 

405 

III 

571 

1,972 

3.736 

250 

201 

87 

87 

608 

20 

18 

168 

881 

1,169 

243 

49 

183 

120 

409 

14 

34 

59 

57 

114 

I 

3 

881 

426 

3.007 

26 

59 

169 

2,309 

3444 

360 

134 

470 

763 

528 

63 

6 

68 


Others. 


324 

277 

72 

258 

165 
103 

549 
409 
10 
127 
594 
156 


7 1     379 


ctiq  H 

o  p  «  o 

"  n'?  o 

0.3-S" 


7.049 
3.707 

898 
6.673 
6,895 

923 
3.059 
1,169 

244 
4.526 
7,010 
1,986 

2,123 


Total   I  5,143  111,843  [23,307  I  1,754  I  792  I  3,423 


46,262 


Remarks.  Legalized  congregations  with  their  own  church 
book-keeping  are  not  included.  Members  of  these  are  3,501 
(1890.)  ^  ^^ 

To  "others"  belong  Separatists  (701),  Salvation  Army  (287), 
Swedenborgian  (34),  French  Reformed  (32),  English  Episcopal 
(135),  Catholie-Apostolic  (313),  Roman  Catholic  (514),  Greek- 
Catholic  (10),  Mosaic  (1,121),  Mormons  (234), '  Non-confessors 
and  others  (42).     Reports  are  for  the  year  1890. 

As  already  remarked,  these  figures  are  too  low.  Only  those 
which  report  the  number  of  "unbaptized  children,"  "other  un- 
baptized  persons"  and  those  "not  confirmed"  can  be  relied  upon. 
And  it  may  be  remarked  as  a  cheering  fact,  that  the  number  of 
unconfirmed  is  not  larger  than  792. 

In  that  part  of  the  Report  of  the  Official  Statistics  of  Sweden, 
from  which  these  figures  are  taken,  exhibits  in  detail  for  the 
different  pastorates  are  also  given.  If  we  study  these  reports 
and  compare  them  with  the  statistics  of  the  non-Lutheran  so- 
cieties we  find  that  Separatism  and  the  existence  of  sects  has  the 
greatest  influence  and  is  most  prevalent  in  middle  Sweden  and 
southern  Norrland,  or,  more  particularly  determined,  in  Upsala, 
Strengnas,  Vesteras    and    Karlstad    bishoprics    together  with 

264 


Medelpad  and  Gothland.  These  movements  have  been  able  to 
exercise  comparatively  less  strength  in  the  bishoprics  of  Herno- 
sand  and  Linkoping,  and  least  in  the  bishoprics  of  Vexio,  Kal- 
mar,  Lund,  and  Goteborg. 

In  the  five  last-named  bishoprics,  the  pastorates,  where  none, 
or  at  least  very  few  Dissenters  are  found,  constitute  the  pre- 
ponderating number. 

The  figures  concerning  non-Lutheran  religious  societies, 
which  have  been  issued  by  the  Central  Bureau  of  Statistics,  are, 
however,  too  small,  and — since  the  reports  for  the  respective  con- 
gregations have  been  computed  upon  a  different  basis  and  from 
other  sources — are  even  in  some  other  respects  misleading.  If 
we  follow  the  Dissenters'  own  reports,  the  average  number  of 
free-church  members,  when  we  consider  the  Swedish  Mission 
Societies,  Baptist  Societies,  and  Methodist  Societies  as  one,  would 
be,  in  relation  to  the  population,  by  provinces  as  follows,  per 
I, GOO  inhabitants: 

TABLE    N. 

Vermland 64 

Gotland 62 

Orebro 5^ 

Vestmanland   5^ 

Gefleborg 5^ 

Upsala 46 

Sodermanland 3° 

Stockholm   . , 37 

Kopparberg 33 

Stockholm  (city) 3^ 

Vesternorrland  (province)    3^ 

Ostergotland   25 

Jonkoping 23 

Elfsborg 19 

Kalmar ^5 

Goteborg ^4 

Jamtland ^3 

Blekinge • ^3 

Skaraborg ^~ 

Kristianstad ° 

Norrbotten ° 

Malmohus  ^ 

Halland o 

Kronoberg 4 

Vesterbotten  3 

These  figures  confirm  what  has  been  said  before  concerning 

265 


the  geographical  extension  of  Sectarianism  and  Separatism.  The 
very  hot-bed  of  the  "laseri"  of  Norrland  and  Smaland,  which 
during  the  first  half  of  the  century  were  the  battle-ground  for 
the  attention  and  persecution  of  the  authorities,  and  the  so-called 
"Liberalists,"  and  which  (laseri)  is,  at  present,  looked  upon  by 
the  free-church  members  as  the  reason  for  the  spiritual  dark- 
ness of  this  region,  are  consequently  the  best  protected  places 
in  our  land  from  sects  and  Separatists. 

I  have  not  had  the  opportunity  of  obtaining  statistics  con- 
cerning the  distribution  of  "mission-houses"  in  the  different 
provinces  or  bishoprics,  but  the  following  figures,  which  I  have 
arranged  from  divers  reports,  ought  to  be  approximately  correct. 
The  bishopric  of  Upsala  with  the  city  of  Stockholm  has  260, 
Linkoping  no,  Skara  100,  Strengnas  140,  Vesteras  200,  Vexio 
120,  Lund  140,  Goteborg  40,  Kalmar  30,  Karlstad  240,  Herno- 
sand  90,  and  Visby  30.  If  these  houses  were  somewhat  evenly 
distributed  over  the  land,  then  40  per  cent  of  Sweden's  congre- 
gations would  be  without  a  mission-house.  Since,  however,  a 
very  large  number  of  congregations,  especially  in  the  provinces 
of  Orebro,  Kopparberg,  and  Vermland,  have  five,  six,  seven 
and  even  ten,  or  more,  such  meeting-houses,  and  since  two,  or 
more,  meeting-houses  are  found  in  hundreds  of  congregations, 
we  find  that  the  people  in  more  than  two-thirds  of  Sweden's 
2,538  Evangelical  Lutheran  congregations  rather  attend  the  di- 
vine services  in  their  churches  than  in  other  more  or  less  Sepa- 
ratistic  places  of  worship.  In  some  regions  these  meeting-houses 
are  very  rare.  In  the  province  of  Kronoberg,  there  are  but  27 
(1890),  in  Halland  7  or  8,  in  the  rural  district  of  Malmohus 
province  a  score,  etc.  In  reality,  the  erection  of  a  meeting-house 
is  not  always  a  reliable  indication  of  a  sect's  progress  in  the 
region  where  the  building  is  erected.  Often  the  outlook  at  these 
places  is  so  "dark"  that  the  sects  are  compelled  to  summon  help 
from  all  parts  of  the  country  to  "evangelize"  the  district. 

Of  the  so-called  free-church  societies  the  Swedish  Mission- 
Society  is  generally  considered  to  be  the  most  important.  The 
Swedish  Mission-Society,  or  Mission-Covenant,  is  a  very  strong 
organization  of  Separatists.  The  Separatism,  which  appeared  in 
Norrland  at  the  beginning  of  the  century,  and  in  less  strength  in 
other  regions,  is  in  comparison  with  the  Swedish  Mission-Society 
of  very  subordinate  importance.  These  older  Separatistic  move- 
ments have  chiefly  appeared  as  a  reaction  because  of  defections 

266 


of  life  or  doctrine  in  the  state  church  from  pure  Lutheran  teach- 
ings, while  the  followers  of  Waldenstrom,  the  Mission-Friends, 
are  hostile  or,  at  least,  indifferent  to  the  pure  teachings.  In 
reality,  the  old  Separatism,  and  likewise  the  old  Pietism  have  no 
connection  with  the  later  movements.  The  last  named  has  more- 
over appeared  and  had  its  greatest  progress  in  those  regions 
where  the  former  were  unknown,  and  that  those  regions  where 
the  free  religionists  of  today  have  made  but  little  progress,  are 
the  same  in  which  the  religious  interest  had  been  best  and  most 
generally  beforehand  awakened,  Waldenstrom  himself  admits  in 
an  utterance  concerning  the  old  hymn-book  at  the  Church  Coun- 
cil of  1868.  The  governor's  report  from  the  province  of  Norr- 
botten  also  informs  us  that  the  "Lutheran  Separatism"  (viz.,  the 
old  Separatism)  is,  because  of  its  strict  Lutheranism,  an  aid  to 
the  clergy  against  sects  of  all  kinds.  In  the  account  of  Sepa- 
ratism, therefore,  I  omit  those  Separatists  who  have  not  yet 
united  themselves  with  the  Mission-Society. 

The  Mission-Society  has  historically  appeared  through  a  sepa- 
ration from  the  "Evangeliska  Fosterlands  Stiftelsen"  of  the 
Mother  Church.  Of  primary  importance  to  this  society  was  the 
great  meetings  of  1877  and  1878  at  Stockholm,  and,  with  respect 
to  doctrine,  the  question  of  the  Atonement  (Waldenstrom  being 
a  Socinian),  and  the  meaning  and  nature  of  the  Lord's  Supper, 
as  applied  to  right  of  partaking  in  it. 

The  Society  has  had  great  progress.  Its  congregations  and 
societies  number  over  900,  to  which  belong  more  than  800 
"mission-houses,"  and  its  membership  exceeds  70,000.  It 
supports  a  great  number  of  ministers  and  has  a  Theological 
Seminary  in  Stockholm.  It  has  many  foreign  missions  and  al- 
lows its  most  trusted  man  a  very  large  income. 

The  society  supports  foreign  missions  in  North  Africa  and 
Congo,  in  Petersburg,  Caucasia,  and  Persia,  in  China  and  Turke- 
stan. For  that  matter,  all  its  mission  work  can  well  be  called 
"foreign  mission,"  since  its  labors,  even  in  Sweden,  consist  in 
converting  people  from  the  Lutheran  church  to  the  Society,  and 
since  the  Society  considers  those  regions,  where  no  followers  of 
Waldenstrom  are  found,  as  dark,  whether  the  people  in  these 
districts  worship  Christ  or  Buddha,  are  Lutherans  or  Aloham- 
medans.  Mission  charts  are  even  said  to  be  found,  giving  the 
extension  of  Christianity  In  our  land,  and  the  papers  of  the 
Society  s.peak  of  "Darkest  Africa"  and  "Darkest  Smaland"  in 

267 


such  a  manner  that  the  reader  must  get  the  idea  that  there  can 
hardly  be  a  difference  worthy  of  mention,  between  the  spiritual 
condition  of  the  Fetich-worshipers,  savages,  negroes  degraded  in 
every  vice,  and  the  people  of  Smaland,  known  for  its  religious 
activity,  where  powerful  spiritual  revivals,  at  least  with  respect 
to  the  province  of  Kronoberg  and  the  bishopric  of  Kalmar,  are 
more  than  a  century  old.  One  does  not  need  more  than  to 
contemplate  these  and  similar  facts  in  order  to  be  convinced  that 
the  spirit,  which  animates  the  Swedish  Mission-Society  is  in 
positive  opposition,  not  only  to  the  State  Church,  but  also  to  the 
Lutheran  Church  generally,  especially  the  pietistic  sentiment  in 
the  same.  This  appears  clearly  from  the  fact  that  the  Lutheran 
Church  in  America,  where,  as  is  well  known,  all  denominations 
are  free,  has  also  become  the  object  of  mission  work  on  the 
part  of  the  Mission-Society,  of  the  followers  of  Waldenstrom. 

What  has  already  been  said  concerning  sects  and  Separatists 
in  general  is  applicable  also  with  reference  to  the  extension  of 
the  Mission-Society  in  our  land.  Its  membership  is  most 
numerous  in  Vermland,  Nerike,  Dalecarlia,  Stockholm  province 
and  city,  Vestermanland,  Medelpad,  Helsingland,  Gothland,  the 
province  of  Jonkoping,  Sodermanland  and  certain  parts  of  Oster- 
gotland.  In  the  remaining  parts  of  our  country  they  appear 
either  in  certain  districts  only,  or  are  very  scattered. 

Their  representation  in  the  different  bishoprics,  the  number 
of  "mission-houses"  and  congregations  all  appear  in  Table  O: 

TABLE   o. 


BISHOPRIC. 

Upsala 

Linkoping 

Skara 

Strengnas 

Vesteras 

Vexio 

Lund 

Goteborg 

Kalmar 

Karlstad 

Hernosand 

Visby 

Stockholm 

Total .T7TT 

268^ 


No.  Con- 

No. Missiob 

gregations. 

Houses. 

168 

165 

63 

55 

73 

75 

87 

71 

108 

115 

50 

42 

68 

53 

24 

14 

16 

23 

126 

148 

78 

35 

39 

II 

8 

4 

908 


811 


THE   RATLAVAY    BRIDGE    ACKOSS  THE  INDAL   RIVEK. 
LOG   CHUTE  FROM   OSTEHSTROM.      THE   RIVER   INDAL,  bILLRE,  LIDEN. 


Remarks:  The  Special  Statistics  are  possibly  not  fully  exact, 
since  it  has  been  difficult  to  determine  to  which  bishopric  a  por- 
tion of  the  free-congregations  belong.  Several  congregations 
have  one-half  or  one-third  of  a  mission-house.  These  are  not 
included.     Figures  are  for  1896. 

The  largest  free-congregations  are  the  Lutheran,  Mission- 
Society's  eastern  and  western  congregations  of  Stockholm  (1,835 
members),  of  Gefle  (1,202),  of  Goteborg  (1,080),  of  Norrkoping 
(816),  of  Jonkoping  (800),  Stockholm's  southern  congregation 
(694),  of  Upsala  (650),  of  Karlstad  (619),  of  Kristinehamn  (554), 
of  Leksand  (551),  of  Vase  (531),  of  Karlskoga  (530),  of  Sunne 
(504)),  and  of  Nora  (500).  On  the  other  hand  there  are  89 
congregations  in  which  the  number  of  members  does  not  reach  20. 

The  members  of  Stockholm's  combined  free  congregations 
number  3,571  (i. 35-100  per  cent  of  the  population)  and  Gote- 
borg's  combined  free-congregations  have  1,328  members 
(i. 19-100  per  cent  of  the  population). 

Of  the  two  University  cities,  Upsala  has  650  followers  of 
Waldenstrom,  and  Lund  45.  The  free-congregation  of  Jonko- 
ping has  800  members,  while  the  corresponding  number  for  the 
somewhat  larger  city  of  Karlskrona  is  no.  The  almost  equally 
large  cities  of  Karlstad  and  Uddevalla  have  respectively  619 
and  20.  Eskilstuna  has  420,  Kalmar  89,  and  Varberg  7  free- 
church  members.  As  far  as  I  can  learn  from  the  Mission- 
Society's  last  register,  there  are  no  free  congregations  in  Vexio, 
Eksjo,  Vimmerby,  Vestervik,  Sigtuna,  Solvesborg,  Kristianstad, 
Ystad,  Kungsbacka,  Kungelf,  Askersund,  Haparanda,  Sim- 
brishamn,  Engelholm  and  Marstrand.  Also,  in  a  part  of  the 
remaining  cities  the  Society's  congregations  are  very  weak.  Thus, 
for  instance,  the  free-congregation  in  Falkenberg  is  deprived  of 
such  important  factors  in  a  congregation's  sound  development 
as  a  minister,  a  leader,  members,  and  a  place  of  worship.  The 
free-congregation  of  Magra  in  Vestergotland  seems  to  be  equally 
meagre. 

The  greatest  number  of  followers  of  Waldenstrom  are  found 
in  the  bishopric  of  Karlstad  (about  15,500,  of  whom  more  than 
14,000  are  found  in  Vermland).  Visby  bishopric  has  absolutely 
the  smallest  number  (987),  but  relatively  the  bishopric  of  Lund 
has  least  (3,263).  Not  including  the  city  of  Goteborg,  the 
bishopric  of  Goteborg  has  but  1,421  Separatists.  Even  these 
are  gathered  in  a  few  localities  so  that,  if  Stora  Lundby  with  254 

^7Z 


Separatists,  Moludal  with  107,  Halmstad  with  238,  and  Enslof 
with  206,  are  not  inckided,  the  remainder  of  the  bishopric  has 
but  616  Separatists  to  about  400,000  inhabitants.  Such  also 
are  the  conditions  in  Kalmar  bishopric,  where  half  of  the  number 
of  the  Mission-Society's  followers  are  to  be  found  in  Monsteras, 
Hogsby,  Torsas,  and  Soderakra.  Halland  has  501,  the  provinces 
of  Kronoberg  and  Vesterbotten  respectively  154  and  266  (1895). 
Had  the  Mission-Society  had  the  same  progress  in  the  whole 
nation  as  in  the  province  of  Kronoberg  it  would  have  a  mem- 
bership of  only  about  4,500,  but,  if  the  progress  had  been  the 
same  as  in  the  province  of  Karlstad,  it  would  have  had  about 
276,000  members.  The  city  of  Stockholm  and  the  bishoprics 
of  Upsala,  Strengnas,  Vesteras,  and  Karlstad  comprise  about 
two-thirds  of  Sweden's  Separatists. 

The  number  of  members  in  the  Swedish  Mission-Society  ap- 
pears in  Table  P. 

Next  to  the  Mission-Society  comes  the  Baptist  Society  with 
respect  to  progress  and  membership.  While  Denmark  has  but 
3,310  Baptists,  Norway,  2,244,  Finland  1,570,  German  Switzer- 
land 503,  and  the  whole  German  Empire  24,571,  Sweden  had 
in  the  year  1896  not  less  than  38,094  Baptists — a  number  which 
seems  to  indicate  that  Sweden  must  have  a  soil  more  receptive 
of  that  peculiar  doctrine  than  any  other  Lutheran  land. 

How  the  Baptists  first  appeared,  is  generally  known.  Its 
first  conquests  were  won  in  Halland,  whose  only  Baptist  congre- 
gation (Weddige-Mark)  is  the  oldest  in  Sweden,  founded  in  1848. 
But  although  this  congregation,  with  its  meeting-house — as  is 
stated  in  the  report  of  the  Extension  of  the  Baptist  Society  by 
provinces,  which  appeared  in  "Veckoposten"  at  the  close  of  the 
year  1894 — still  remains  as  an  evidence  of  the  favor  of  God, 
nevertheless  it  was  not  in  these  districts  where  a  great  number 
of  spiritually  inclined  teachers,  supported  by  the  confidence  of 
the  religiously  interested  people,  were  active,  that  the  Baptist  So- 
ciety should  win  its  greatest  conquests.  It  was,  instead,  central 
Sweden,  submerged  in  spiritual  death,  which  was  to  be  the  soil 
most  receptive  to  the  seed-corn  of  the  Baptists — a  place  which 
prided  itself  on  the  deep  calm  of  its  spiritual  life  and  where  there 
was  a  peculiar  freedom  from  all  spiritual  movements.  The 
membership  of  the  society  increased  very  rapidly,  so  that,  e.  g., 
the  Stora  Mellosa  Baptist  congregation  already  in  1870  had  307 
members,  while  in  1895  it  had  but  264. 

274 


In  1855,  Sweden  had  9  Baptist  congregations  with  a  com- 
bined membership  of  476.  In  1870  this  number  had  increased 
to  8,617.  In  1880  the  Baptist  Society  had  19,297  members,  303 
congregations,  116  meeting-houses,  and  14.776  Sunday  School 
children.  In  1890  the  corresponding  figures  were  34,837 — 524 
— 244 — 33,825.  In  1896  they  were  38,094 — 555(  of  which  4  were 
organized  in  1895) — 307 — 40,924.  These  figures  testify  to  great 
progress.  However,  it  appears  that  the  progress  during  tlie  last 
years  has  been  considerably  less  than  before.  While  the  mem- 
bership during  the  years  1880-1890  increased  by  about  80  per 
cent,  the  increase  during  the  years  1890-96  was  not  even  10  per 
cent.  The  number  baptized  during  the  years  1886-90  was  14,718 
but  during  the  year  1895  only  1,905,  and  the  decrease  in  the 
number  baptized  in  comparison  with  the  preceding  year  was 
690. 

During  the  years  1886-90,  1,615,819  crowns  were  collected 
for  the  society's  expense  and  for  missionary  work.  During  the 
years  1895,  438,587  crowns  were  collected  for  "the  advancement 
and  sustenance  of  the  kingdom  of  Christ."  The  Baptists'  meet- 
ing-houses of  1895  were  valued  at  2,370,429  crowns,  and  the 
debt  resting  upon  them  amounted  to  800,425  crowns. 

With  respect  to  the  number  of  Baptists  in  the  provinces,  you 
are  referred  to  Table  P. 

The  greatest  number  are  found,  relatively  speaking,  in  Goth- 
land (219  Baptists  to  10,000  inhabitants),  absolutely  speaking  in 
the  province  of  Vesternorrland  (4,389).  It  should  be  noted  here 
that  the  district  of  Medelpad  gives  the  greatest  number  to  this 
figure,  viz.,  3,328,  while  Angermaland  by  right  is  considered  by 
the  bishop  of  Hernosand  as  belonging  to  the  nation's  most  ortho- 
dox provinces.  The  least  number  of  Baptists,  relatively  and 
absolutely,  are  found  in  the  province  of  Halland  (79).  The  aver- 
age number  in  this  province  is  6  Baptists  to  10,000  inhabitants. 

The  Swedish  Baptist  Society  is  divided  into  19  district  so- 
cieties, in  which  655  ministers  labor.  The  smallest  district  so- 
ciety is  that  of  Norrbotten,  with  216  members,  8  congregations, 
3  meeting-houses,  and  4  ministers.  The  largest  are  those  of 
Stockholm,  with  6,774  members,  63  congregations,  36  oratories, 
and  96  ministers,  and  Nerike,  with  respectively  4,151 — 37 — 31 — 

58. 

The  third  of  the  more  important  dissenting  religious  organiza- 
tions is  that  of  the  Methodists.     This  society  is  considered,  in 

275 


general,  as  being  more  worthy  of  respect  and  as  being  more 
religious  than  either  of  the  two  preceding  societies.  Its  increase 
is  also  considerably  slower.  A  great  number  of  its  members, 
although  far  from  all,  have  withdrawn  from  the  Swedish  Church 
in  the  correct  and  prescribed  manner. 

The  Methodist  Society  in  Sweden  is  divided  into  five  dis- 
tricts, viz.,  Gefle,  Gothland,  Goteborg,  Malmo,  and  Stockholm. 
Of  these  Goteborg  is  the  largest,  with  4.175  in  full  membership, 
and  423  on  probation,  40  local  preachers,  31  congregations,  and 
37  churches.  Next  comes  Gefle  district,  wdth  3,747  members 
admitted  into  full  membership,  492  on  probation,  yj  local  preach- 
ers, 28  congregations,  and  34  churches.  The  largest  Methodist 
congregations  are  Gefle,  with  707  members  in  full  membership, 
and  150  on  probation,  St.  Paul  Church  of  Stockholm,  with,  re- 
spectively 465  and  95,  St.  Peter  Church  of  Stockholm,  with  497 
and  29,  Trinity  Church  of  Stockholm,  wdth  389  and  49,  Upsala, 
with  575  and  150,  Emanuel  Church  of  Goteborg,  with  477  and 
74,  St.  Jacob  Church  of  Goteborg,  with  386  and  33,  Orebro,  with 
337  and  2}^,  Visby,  with  310  and  15,  and  Norrkoping,  with  524 
and  65. 

The  total  number  of  Methodists  in  Sweden  (1896)  was  16,725, 
of  which  1,890  were  on  probation. 

No  great  increase  in  the  society  has  occurred  during  the  last 
years.  The  number  of  members  in  full  membership  was  increased 
during  1896  by  310,  and  the  number  of  probationists  by  18.  In 
Goteborg  district  the  membership  decreased  by  94. 

The  whole  number  of  Methodist  congregations  in  Sweden  is 
112,  number  of  churches  120,  with  a  valuation  of  1,385,363 
crowns. 

Eleven  parsonages  are  found  with  a  valuation  of  33,262 
crowns.  The  debt  resting  on  the  church  property  of  the  so- 
ciety amounts  to  462,975  crowns.  During  the  last  year  the 
number  of  churches  was  increased  by  10,  the  number  of  local 
preachers  decreased  by  10  (from  141  to  131)  and  the  debt  on  the 
church  property  increased  by  21,731  crowns. 

The  Methodists  have  often  special  religious  instruction  for 
their  children,  and,  besides,  Sunday  Schools,  where  they  receive 
children  of  even  other  than  Methodist  parents.  Methodist  min- 
isters administered  baptism  last  year  to  297  candidates,  against 
339  during  the  preceding  year. 

The  Sunday  School  is  for  the  Methodists,  as  the  Baptists  and 

276 


Mission-Society,  the  institution  from   which  they   expect   most 
aid,  and  indeed  by  right. 

Table  P.  presents  comparative  statistics  of  the  free-church 
societies  for  1895: 

TABLE    P. 


PROVINCE. 


Baptists. 


Mission  Society. 


Methodists. 


No.  of 
Mernb  rs. 


No.  of 
Members. 


2 
^  o 


No.  of 
Members. 


Stockholm  (city). 
Stockholm  (prov.) 

Upsala   

Sodermanland    .  . 
Ostergotland  .... 

Jonkoping 

Kronoberg 

Kalmar  

Gotland   

Blekinge 

Kristianstad   .... 

Malmohus  

Halland   

Goteb.  &  Bohus.. 

Elfsborg   

Skaraborg   

\"ermland   

Orebro 

\^estmanland  .... 
Kopparberg  .... 

Gefleborg   

\^esternorrland   . . 

Jamtland 

Vesterbotten  .... 
Norrbotten 


Whole  nation.. 


3-586 
1,194 
1,232 

2731 

2,438 

626 

360 

1,017 

IJ35 

675 

1,098 

496 

79 

633 

865 

500 

2,130 

3-942 

1,726 

3,018 

2,933 

4-389 

921 

174 
216 


132 

76 

100 

169 

89 

2>^ 

^2> 

44 

219 

47 
50 

13 

6 

20 

31 
20 

84 
209 
120 
146 

134 

201 

88 

13 
19 


38,094  i     71 


3.343 
4,342 
3,698 
2,785 
3,245 
3,622 

no 
1,647 
1,181 

812 

773 
1,402 

607 
2,754 

3,953 
2,265 
12,829 
5.081 
4,608 
3,127 

6,893 

2,110 

418 

266 

724 


72,595 


123 

275 
301 
172 
320 
184 

7 
72 
228 
57 
35 
Z7 
44 
88 

143 
93 

507 
269 

323 
149 

315 

98 

40 

20 

_63 

148 


1,446 

152 

572 
1,188 

389 
167 
772 
920 
388 
II 
542 
169 

1,103 
296 
124 

1-273 

1.458 

943 

596 

1,026 

272 

18 


14,507 


53 
9 
63 
35 
44 
20 
10 

34 
178 

27 

0.5 

14 

12 

35 
10 

5 
50 

77 
66 
29 

47 

12 

2 


29 


Concerning  the  remaining  religious  organizations,  it  is  suffi- 
cient in  this  connection  to  name  the  following: 

The  New  Church,  or  the  followers  of  Swedenborg,  have  two 
congregations  in  Stockholm.  Besides  these,  there  are  individuals 
who  in  their  view  of  life  have  adopted  more  or  less  of  Sweden- 
borg's  teachings. 

The  Irvingites,  or  the  Catholic  Apostolic  Church,  have  (1890) 
congregations  in  Stockholm  and  Norrkoping.       During  later 

277 


years  this  society  has  won  followers  in  Hernosand,  Vada,  Augarn, 
and  other  regions.  The  views  of  this  sect  probably  partake  too 
much  of  the  nature  of  true  Christianity  to  win  followers  among 
those  who  desire  to  leave  the  Lutheran  Church, 

There  are  four  Roman-Catholic  congregations,  viz.,  in  Stock- 
holm, Goteborg,  Gefle,  and  Malmo.  In  Stockholm  the  society 
makes  great  efforts,  but  the  great  progress,  that  many  fear,  will 
hardly  be  the  result.  The  whole  number  of  Papists  in  Sweden 
in  1890  were  reported  at  1,390.  This  figure  does  not  indicate 
any  "increase,"  in  the  number  of  Swedish  Catholics,  worthy  of 
mention. 

Of  the  remainder  there  are  one  French  Reformed  congrega- 
tion, two  English  Episcopal,  and  one  Greek  Catholic  congrega- 
tion. The  Mosaic  congregations  number  seven.  The  number 
of  Mosaic  believers  is  3,402,  of  which  1,293  are  in  the  city  of 
Stockholm.  In  the  column  "Others"  (Table  M.)  are  included 
9  Utilitarians,  7  Infidels,  2  Atheists  and  i  Free-Thinker. 

The  Church  Life. 

In  judging  of  the  church  life  in  a  church-body,  it  is  above  all 
the  relation  of  the  common  people  to  the  means  of  Grace,  which 
must  be  considered  from  an  Evangelical-Lutheran  point  of  view. 
While  the  rationalistic,  the  so-called  humanitarian  tendency,  as 
well  as  sects  in  general  attach  the  greatest  importance  to  the 
sacrificial,  to  man's  actions.  Evangelical  Christianity  places  more 
weight  on  the  sacramental,  God's  grace  and  faith.  The  less  the 
means  of  Grace  are  used  the  more  spiritual  death  and  spiritual 
darkness,  even  if  the  exterior  culture,  piety,  and  honesty  seem  to 
have  improved.  For  exterior  piety,  which  receives  not  its 
strength  from  the  Means  of  Grace  is  and  will  be  but  Paganism 
in  its  best  form. 

On  the  other  hand  it  is  evident,  that  even  the  relation  to  the 
means  of  grace  may  be  but  exterior,  so  that  the  use  of  these 
means  bring  about  no  change  in  the  religious  and  moral  state  of 
a  man.  This  relation,  formerly  more  common  than  now,  can 
be  considered  as  a  Jewish  tendency  in  the  Evangelical  church. 

We  can  also  look  upon  the  relation  to  the  Means  of  Grace 
as  aflfecting  the  inner  life,  but  not  reflected,  a  relation,  which 
should  be  closely  considered,  when  we  are  to  judge  of  the  spirit- 
ual attitude  in  certain  districts  of  our  country  before  the  year 

1850. 

278 


In  order  to  rightly  judge  of  the  reHgious  life,  it  is  therefore 
necessary  to  observe,  as  far  as  is  practicable,  what  effect  the 
means  of  grace  has  upon  the  common  people  and  the  individual. 
It  is  not  necessary  to  say  that  this  examination  is  considerably 
more  difificult  for  the  Lutheran  than  for  the  Donatist. 

In  conclusion,  in  judging  of  the  religious  life,  the  moral  re- 
lation of  the  people  must  be  taken  into  consideration,  the  increase 
or  decrease  of  the  more  apparent  or  common  sins. 

iMrst,  then,  an  account  of  the  use  of  the  means  of  grace  in 
the  Swedish  Church,  so  far  as  is  practicable  with  the  aid  of 
incomplete  reports,  should  be  presented. 

The  use  of  the  Word  of  God  as  a  means  of  grace  is  evidenced 
above  all  by  a  participation  in  the  public  Divine  Services. 

In  the  different  bishoprics,  conditions,  in  this  respect  as  in 
many  others,  differ  considerably. 

The  situation  seems  least  encouraging  in  the  bishoprics  of 
Upsala,  Strengniis,  Vesteras,  and  Karlstad,  where  the  public  Di- 
vine services  in  most  of  the  congregations  are  very  poorly  at- 
tended. However,  the  churches  in  these  bishoprics  are  not  so 
generally  neglected  as  is  commonly  imagined.  "On  the  con- 
trary," states  the  last  report  for  the  bishopric  of  Upsala,  "Re- 
ports show  not  only,  that  in  many  places  the  time-honored  cus- 
tom of  Sunday  attendance  at  the  house  of  God  continues  to  be 
observed,  but  also,  that,  in  many  congregations,  where  a  deterio- 
ration had  begun,  the  interest  in  Divine  Service  had  been  again 
aroused." 

The  situation  is  far  better  in  the  bishoprics  of  Linkoping  and 
Visby.  For  the  bishopric  of  Linkoping  it  was  reported  at  the 
ministerial  meeting  of  1895  that  the  number  of  attendants  at 
church  had  been  increased  in  about  90  congregations,  decreased 
in  about  70,  and  but  slightly  altered  in  the  remainder. 

Diligence  in  attendance  to  the  word  of  God  seems  best  in 
greater  parts  of  the  bishoprics  of  Skara,  Vexio,  Lund,  and  Herno- 
sand,  and  in  almost  the  whole  of  the  bishoprics  of  Goteborg  and 
Kalmar — the  districts  where  the  older  Lutheran  Pietism  most 
powerfully  rooted  itself  in  the  minds  of  the  people. 

The  attendance  at  church,  every  Sunday  and  holiday  in  the 
bishoprics  of  Stockholm,  Upsala,  Vesteras,  Strengnas,  and  Karl- 
stad is  about  10  per  cent  of  the  population,  or  173,000.  In  the 
bishoprics  of  Linkoping,  Hernosand,  and  Visby  15  per  cent,  or 
147,000.    In  the  bishoprics  of  Skara,  Vexio,  Lund,  Goteborg,  and 

279 


Kalmar  25  per  cent,  or  520,000.     In  the  whole  nation  (about 
2,500  churches)  840,000. 

About  17  per  cent  of  Sweden's  population  does,  according 
to  this  calculation,  attend  church  every  Sunday.  Even  if  we 
approximate  the  number  of  those  who  listen  to  services  con- 
ducted by  preachers  in  school-houses  or  other  places  besides 
the  church  at  3  per  cent,  and  the  number  who  attend  the  Dis- 
senters' services  at  5  per  cent,  nevertheless,  about  75  per  cent 
of  our  people  are  absent  from  every  kind  of  divine  service  every. 
Sunday.  In  this  connection  it  should  be  noticed,  however,  that 
in  Sweden  small  children  are  not  taken  along  to  church;  also, 
that  where  distances  to  churches  are  very  great  people  gather 
in  separate  houses  to  hear  sermons  read.  This  appHes  especially 
to  Norrland. 

With  reference  to  the  use  of  God's  Word  in  the  homes,  it  is 
generally  complained  and  lamented  that  family  devotions  are 
very  rare. 

"The  so-called  'old  readers,'  "  says  a  former  report  for  the 
bishopric  of  Vexio,  "who  in  general,  are  distinguished  for  their 
good  knowledge  of  Christianity  and  their  religious  spirit,  are 
also  those  who  most  diligently  use  the  word  of  God  in  their 
homes  and  most  regularly  conduct  family  devotions."  Indi- 
vidual communion  with  God's  Word  seems  more  common.  This 
is  vouched  for  at  least  with  reference  to  the  bishopric  of  Gote- 

borg. 

The  Holy  Bible  is  now  found  in  almost  all  homes.  Less 
distributed  are  our  confessions  of  faith.  Since  the  subscribers  to 
the  last  edition  were  over  22,000,  it  can  be  assumed  that  these 
books  are  found  in  from  30,000  to  40,000  Swedish  homes.  The 
books  of  devotion  most  used  in  the  bishoprics  of  Hernosand, 
Kalmar,  Vexio,  Skara,  Lund,  and  Goteborg  are  the  productions 
of  Luther,  Arndt,  Nohrborg,  Roos,  and  Schartau.  Otherwise 
Rosenius,  Waldenstrom  and  Aloody  seem  to  be  the  authors  most 
in  favor.  In  Finnmarken  the  works  of  Laestadius  and  Laitinen 
have  a  wide  circulation.  In  the  bishoprics  of  Hernosand,  Vexio, 
and  Kalmar,  the  religiously  inclined  use  as  song-books  "Syrens 
Sangbok,"  "Mose  och  Launnets  A^isor,"  and  the  "old  hymn- 
book,"  which  in  some  places  in  this  region  was  used  at  the 
regular  service  even  until  a  few  years  ago.  In  place  of  books 
of  devotion,  the  free-religious  use  mostly  papers  for  their  edifica- 
tion. 

280 


INTERIOR   OF  THE  CHURCH  OF   HEKXOSAND. 


With  respect  to  Holy  Baptism,  the  condition  in  our  land 
is,  that  if  the  Baptists  are  not  counted  in,  very  few  parents  allow 
their  children  to  grow  up  unbaptized.  The  number  of  unbap- 
tized  children  in  Sweden  was  in  1890  23,307,  and  others  un- 
baptized, 1,754- 

The  number  of  unbaptized  children  in  the  different  bishoprics 
appears  in  Table  M. 

In  the  majority  of  the  congregations  there  are  but  a  very 
few  children  who  remain  unbaptized,  and,  in  527  of  Sweden's 
1,379 "pastorates,  there  are  no  unbaptized  children.  These  pas- 
torates are  divided  among  the  different  bishoprics,  as  follows: 

Bishoprics.  Pastorates. 

Upsala 21 

Linkoping 50 

Skara 67 

Strengnas 13 

Vesteras 12 

Vexio  55 

Lund 150 

Goteborg 75 

Kalmar 31 

Karlstad 3 

Hernosand 39 

Visby II 

In  the  most  of  the  bishoprics,  the  reports  complain  that  bap- 
tism is  deferred  until  the  child  becomes  from  one  to  two  months 
old,  and  even  much  older.  Exceptions  from  this  rule  occur 
chiefly  in  the  bishopric  of  Goteborg  and  the  majority  of  the 
congregations  in  the  southern  bishoprics,  where  children  receive 
the  blessings  of  baptism  very  early. 

When  the  use  of  the  Holy  Communion  is  to  be  discussed, 
fixed  and  reliable  figures  are  missed,  just  the  same  as  when  it  con- 
cerns the  churchliness  of  the  people.  That  the  number  of  com- 
municants has  decreased  in  a  marked  degree  during  the  last  30 
years,  is  generally  known.  In  order  to  understand  how  great  this 
change  is,  which  has  taken  place  in  this  respect,  I  quote  the  follow- 
ing from  a  delineation  of  Sweden's  ecclesiastical  relation  in  1825: 
"There  are  congregations  where  persons  are  found  occasionally 
who  go  eight  or  more  times  to  the  Lord's  Supper  (this  is  the 
case  with  many  of  the  northern  'readers'),  but  the  most  com- 
mon attendance  is  from  two  to  four  times  per  year.  For  this 
reason  communions  are  in  general  very  well  attended  and  this 

283 


is  so,  especially  from  the  fact  that  in  relation  to  the  population,  . 
communion  days  are  in  many  places  too  few;  for  instance,  there 
are  congregations  of  1,200  persons  where  the  Lord's  Supper  is 
partaken  of  but  six  times  per  year.  The  great  number  of  com- 
municants, which,  in  the  rural  congregations  on  a  communion 
day,  occasionally  amounts  to  500  and  over,  requires  naturally 
a  great  store  of  wine  (e.  g.,  in  Legsand  per  year  18  firkins)." 

In  all  of  the  bishoprics'  reports,  with  the  exception  of  Gote- 
borg  and  Kalmar,  it  is  complained  that  there  is  a  greater  or  less 
decrease  in  the  number  of  communicants.  Thus,  for  example, 
says  the  report  from  the  bishopric  of  Upsala:  "From  nearly 
all  parts  of  the  bishopric  come  complaints  of  a  continued  de- 
crease, and  in  many  places  it  has  decreased  to  more  than  half 
of  what  it  formerly  was;  indeed,  congregations  can  be  found 
where  hardly  a  tenth  of  the  members  appear  at  the  communion 
table  during  the  year." 

The  last  report  for  the  bishopric  of  Linkoping  says  that  the 
participation  in  the  Lord's  Supper  has  decreased  in  a  consider- 
able degree  in  about  100  congregations,  in  a  slight  measure 
increased  in  about  50,  and  has  been  without  any  particular  change 
from  the  old  number  in  the  remainder.  In  one  congregation 
the  number  has  decreased  from  1,200  to  400,  in  another  from 
1,469  to  936,  in  a  third  from  1,700  to  800,  etc. 

In  the  bishopric  of  Skara  conditions  are  more  favorable,  so 
that  the  number  of  communicants  annually  in  many  places  is 
greater  than  the  population.  The  northern  and  eastern  parts 
of  the  bishopric  are  an  exception  from  this  rule. 

Non-attendance  at  the  administering  of  this  Means  of  Grace 
seems  greatest  in  the  bishoprics  of  Strengnas,  Vesteras,  and 
Karlstad.  Not  half  of  the  number  entitled  to  communion  par- 
take of  communion  in  the  majority  of  these  bishoprics. 

Concerning  the  bishoprics  of  Vexioitwas  reported  forthe  year 
1887  (conditions  were  tolerably  unchanged  at  the  last  Synod): 
"The  number  of  communicants  has  increased  in  the  province 
of  Kronoberg  in  15  congregations,  and  in  the  province  of  Jonko- 
ping  in  5  congregations,  and  decreased  in  the  province  of  Krono- 
berg in  4,  and  in  the  province  of  Jonkoping  in  25  congregations." 
Concerning  the  bishopric  of  Lund,  the  report  from  the  rural 
district  of  South  Scania  states  that  the  respect  and  desire  for  this 
holy  sacrament  is  as  deep  and  intense  as  of  yore,  and  that,  as 
a  result  thereof,  the  Lord's  Supper  is  often  commemorated  sev- 

284 


eral  times  a  year  by  nearly  all  who  are  entitled  to  this  privilege. 
An  opposite  condition  exists  in  North  Scania  and  Blekinge.aswell 
as  in  the  city  congregations.  As  an  example,  it  may  be  related 
that  in  a  city  congregation  in  1890  there  were  5,569  communi- 
cants, and  the  number  who  availed  themselves  of  this  privilege, 
1,554.  And  the  figures  for  a  rural  congregation  in  the  district 
\'illand  were  respectively  2,360  and  826.  However  lamentable 
this  may  appear,  it  may  nevertheless  be  noted  that  these  figures, 
which  here  seem  very  unfavorable,  would  in  the  bishoprics  of 
middle  Sweden  be  considered  quite  advantageous. 

No  change  worthy  of  mention  has  taken  place  in  the  bishopric 
of  Goteborg  during  the  later  years.  The  number  of  communi- 
cants has  decreased  in  10  congregations  and  increased  in  10 
pastorates.  In  several  congregations  not  one  is  negligent,  and 
in  the  majority  very  few  in  regards  to  this  Aleans  of  Grace. 
Concerning  many  congregations  it  is  said  that  the  majority  go  to 
communion  three  to  five  times  a  rear. 

Of  the  bishopric  of  Kalmar  we  read:  "From  most  of  the 
congregations  it  is  reported  that  this  sacrament  is  received  one 
or  more  times  a  year  bv  all,  or  nearly  all.  who  are  entitled 
to  it." 

In  the  bishoprics  of  Hernosand  and  Visby  the  number  of 
communicants  has  decreased  in  most  of  the  congregations,  but 
increased  in  a  few. 

Although  we,  as  before  stated,  have  no  access  to  exact  re- 
ports concerning  the  yearly  number  of  communicants  in  Sweden, 
nevertheless,  we  can,  with  an  eye  on  the  reports  which  are  at 
hand,  form  an  approximate  estimate  of  the  probable  number 
which,  even  though  it  may  be  considered  far  from  exact,  still 
would  not  deviate  many  per  cent  from  the  actual  situation.  Ac- 
cordingly I  have,  with  reference  to  the  reports,  which  appear  in 
the  bishops'  messages,  compared  with  accounts  from  pastorates 
in  different  parts  of  the  nation,  arranged  the  following  compu- 
tation respecting  the  approximate  number  of  communicants  in 
Sweden  every  year:  '  ' 

In  the  bishoprics  of  Stockholm,  Upsala,  Strengnas, 
Vesteras,  and  Karlstad,  15  per  cent  of  the  whole 
population   260,000 

In  the  bishoprics  of  Linkoping,  Hernosand,  and  Vis- 
by, 40  per  cent 390,000 

285 


In  the  bishoprics  of  Vexio,  Skara,  and  Lund,  80  per 
cent 1,120,000 

In  the  bishoprics  of  Goteborg  and  Kalmar,  no  per 

cent 740,000 

In  the  whole  nation 2,510,000 

If  we  assume  that  the  number  of  communicants  in  Sweden  is 
in  round  numbers  3,200,000,  and  consider  that  the  magnitude  of 
the  above  probable  figures  depends  upon  the  fact  that  a  very 
large  per  cent  of  church  people  commune  several  times  a  year, 
we  can  safely  hold  that  not  much  over  half  of  those  confirmed 
remain  in  communicant  relationship  to  the  church. 

The  reasons  for  the  declining  use  of  the  Means  of  Grace  in 
question  are  indeed  many.  Among  the  cultured  class  there  ex- 
ists very  often  a  certain  scepticism  as  to  the  value  of  the  Eucharist. 
However,  the  most  important  reasons  are  unbelief,  indifference, 
and  Separatism,  and  above  all,  the  very  custom  of  absenting 
one's  self  from  this  Means  of  Grace,  in  part  probably  depending 
upon  the  unscriptural  exhortations  of  many  preachers  to  the 
people,  that  they  may  not  for  this  reason  or  that  partake  of  the 
Lord's  Supper.  That  still  other  reasons  could  be  presented  is 
shown  by  the  following  report  from  Vexio:  "Several  years  ago 
communion  was  held  but  once  a  month  but,  for  several  reasons, 
and  especially  that  no  support  should  be  left  to  the  more  or  less 
correct  assertion  that  anxious  souls  did  not  have  the  opportunity 
of  enjoying,  often  enough,  the  Lord's  Supper,  the  innovation  of 
holding  communion  twice  a  month  was  commenced.  Each  of 
these  two  communions  are  now  just  as  largely  attended  as  when 
but  one  communion  service  was  held  during  each  month." 
Similar  experience  I  have  had  in  one  of  the  congregations  of 
Nerike. 

Confirmation  seems  to  be  the  religious  institution  which  has 
the  most  general  sympathy  of  the  people.  Even  if  the  figure 
which  the  Central  Bureau  of  Statistics  reports  for  the  number 
unconfirmed  (792)  should  be  somewhat  too  low,  nevertheless  it 
is  certain  that  very  few  baptized  children  neglect  confirmation. 
Indeed,  the  desire  to  "ga  och  liisa"  is  in  general  so  great  that  in 
many  places  threats  of  prohibition  are  used  as  a  means  of  getting 
children  to  attend  the  public  schools,  although  participation  in 
school  instruction  is  obligatory  and  legislation  grants  powerful 
means  as  aid  in  this  respect;  while  the  instruction  for  confirma- 

286 


tion  is  not  only  voluntary  and  tuition  charges  also  voluntary,  but 
it  is  also  opposed  very  actively  by  Dissenters  as  well  as,  for  ex- 
ample, by  the  Society  for  Religious  Liberty. 

In  close  connection  with  this  instruction,  as  well  as  with  the 
Means  of  Grace,  the  Lord's  Supper,  comes  the  individual  pastoral 
care  of  the  souls.  For  this  end  the  clergy  were  solicited  espe- 
cially during  the  first  half  of  the  century  in  those  regions  where 
much  spiritual  interest  had  been  aroused. 

And  this  is,  even  in  a  less  degree,  still  the  obtaining  condition 
of  things.  Thus,  it  is  reported  from  the  bishopric  of  Vexio,  that 
the  clergy  were  in  this  respect  solicited  in  the  province  of  Krono- 
berg,  often  in  68  congregations,  occasionally  in  8,  and  seldom 
in  4;  in  the  province  of  Jonkoping,  on  the  other  hand,  often  in 
35  congregations,  occasionally  in  33  and  seldom  in  32.  In  the 
report  for  the  pastorate  of  Vexio,  we  read:  "Many  of  the  mem- 
bers of  the  congregation,  when  they  have  become  anxious  con- 
cerning their  salvation,  have  called  upon  the  ministers,  and  two 
of  the  ministers  have,  according  to  their  annotations,  been  called 
to  120  sick  persons;"  in  the  report  from  L^rshult:  "From  and 
including  the  first  of  May,  188 1,  to  the  same  day,  1887,  the  pastor 
has,  according  to  notes,  been  called  to  visit  the  sick  599  times. 
He  has  often  received  visits  from  persons  who  have  felt  a  desire 
to  speak  with  him  about  their  souls  and  their  concern  for  eter- 
nity." 

For  the  bishopric  of  Linkoping  it  is  reported  that  individual 
administering  of  the  communion  to  sick  and  aged  persons  occurs 
often  in  51  congregations,  and  that  the  clergy  are  often  called 
upon  for  the  individual  care  of  the  souls  in  14  congregations. 

In  certain  congregations  in  Norrland,  in  the  majority  of 
congregations  in  the  southern  bishoprics  soul-comforting  visits 
to  the  sick  occur  often,  and  in  the  bishopric  of  Goteborg  it  is 
the  rule  in  several  places  that  ministers  have  at  certain  fixed 
times  receptions  for  persons,  who  seek  spiritual  advice. 

Calls  to  the  sick  as  well  as  a  desire  for  the  pastor's  individual 
care  of  the  souls  seem  to  occur  more  seldom  in  the  remaining 
bishoprics. 

With  respect  to  the  remaining  functions  of  the  church  it  may 
be  noted  that  Burial  of  the  dead  without  the  assistance  of  a 
clergyman  occurs  in  very  few  instances,  that  church  marriage 
is  general,  and  that  those  who  are  not  entitled  to  it  often  submit 
themselves  to  instruction  for  confirmation,  in  order  to  escape  the 

28; 


civil  marriage.  The  number  of  marriages  entered  into  before 
the  civil  authorities,  constituted,  in  1894,  380.  The  greatest  num- 
ber of  civil  marriages  took  place  in  the  province  of  Kopparberg 
(70)  and  the  province  of  Orebro  (44).  The  least  number  oc- 
curred in  Halland  province  (o),  in  Kronoberg  province  (3),  in 
Kalmar  province  (3),  in  Vesterbotten  province  (i),  and  in  Gote- 
borg  province  (6)  (of  which  5  were  in  the  city  of  Goteborg). 

Taken  in  general,  the  number  of  marriages,  in  Sweden  as  well 
as  in  the  remainder  of  Europe,  has  decreased.  The  whole  num- 
ber of  marriages  was  in  1894,  27,851,  against  28,478  in  1889.  As 
a  comparison,  it  may  be  stated  that  in  1810  the  figures  were 
25,780,  and  in  1850  26,267.  I  give  these  figures  here  since  they 
are  of  importance  in  judging  of  social  and  moral  conditions. 

If  one  should  form  a  judgment  after  this  account  of  the  re- 
ligious conditions  concerning  the  present  Christian  religious  life 
of  Sweden  it  could  hardly  be,  in  the  main,  encouraging.  With 
reference  to  diligence  in  the  use  of  the  Means  of  Grace,  respect 
for  the  laws  of  God  and  man,  religious  earnestness  and  love  for 
the  Word  of  God  and  our  church,  an  astonishing  deterioration 
has  taken  place,  so  that  some  of  our  congregations  in  this  re- 
spect, at  least  in  the  most  important — the  celebration  of  the 
death  of  Christ — rank  probably  lowest  in  the  whole  Lutheran 
Christendom.  Progress  on  the  other  hand  is  evidenced  chiefly 
in  increased  sobriety  and  richer  contributions  to  missions. 
Through  the  combined  efforts  of  unbelief,  indifference,  and  Sec- 
tarianism, a  devastation  and  a  defection  from  Christian  faith  and 
Christian  customs  have  passed  over  our  land  during  a  few  de- 
cades, a  defection,  rare  in  the  history  of  the  church. 

Nevertheless,  such  a  dark  portrayal  does  not  apply  to  con- 
ditions in  all  parts  of  Sweden.  The  situation  is  worst'  in  the 
bishoprics  of  Upsala,  Karlstad,  Vesteras,  and  Strengnas,  and  also 
in  Medelpad,  and  several  congregations  in  the  bishopric  of 
Hernosand;  in  the  northern  part  of  the  bishopric  of  Linkoping, 
in  Gullbcrg,  Boberg,  Vilfolka,  and  \'alkebo  of  the  same  bishopric; 
in  Tveta  and  Vestra  district  of  the  bishopric  of  Vexio;  in  the 
districts,  \"estra  and  Ostra  Goinge.  Villand,  Gard  and  Ostra,  in 
the  bishopric  of  Lund,  together  with  a  part  of  the  laboring  dis- 
tricts in  the  western  parts  of  the  same  bishopric. 

In  most  of  the  congregations  in  the  just  named  territories  the 
majority  of  the  people  live  without  the  sacramental  relationship 
to  the  church.     Conditions  are  somewhat  better  in  the  bishopric 


of  Visby  and  the  remaining  parts  of  the  bishoprics  of  Linkoping 
and  Hernosand,  especially  the  latter,  as  also  separate  regions  in 
the  provinces  of  Upsala  and  Gefleborg. 

On  the  other  hand  it  must  be  acknowledged  that  the  church 
people  in  the  bishoprics  of  Lund,  Vexio,  Skara,  Goteborg,  and 
Kalmar  represent  the  majority  of  the  people,  and  that  the  re- 
ligious activity  of  the  church  in  these  parts  has  a  great  reputa- 
tion and  has  been  crowned  with  much  success.  To  more  than 
one  of  the  congregations  in  these  bishoprics  can  be  applied  what 
is  said  concerning  one  of  the  congregations  of  Kronoberg 
province:  "The  people  here,  and  especially  those  who  wish  to 
be  reckoned  for  something  in  a  religious  and  spiritual  sense, 
have  a  great  fear  of  everything  new  and  consider  it  almost  as 
something  anti-Christian."  Another  account  says:  "The  con- 
gregation stands  as  one  man  against  Separatism  and  hostility 
to  the  church,  if  anything  such  makes  an  attempt  to  enter.  At 
the  Luther  festival  in  1883  the  congregation  decided  to  enter  as  a 
perpetual  member  in  the  society,  the  Friends  of  the  Church, 
into  which  the  whole  congregation  is  now  received.  This  seems 
to  have  strengthened  her  union  against  unreligious  currents  from 
without." 

If  we  now  ask  for  the  reason  of  the  great  defection,  not  only 
from  the  church,  but  also  from  Christianity  as  a  whole — for  a 
Christianity  without  the  use  of  the  Means  of  Grace  is  unknown 
to  the  Bible — the  answers  appear  to  be  numerous.  The  spirit 
of  the  times,  the  bad  class  of  newspapers,  liberty  to  preach  the 
teachings  of  infidelity,  Separatism  and  Sectarianism,  are  com- 
monly named.  There  is  a  conservative  factor  which  should  be 
taken  into  account  in  this  connection — a  factor  which  seems  to  be 
the  most  important,  when  we  seek  an  explanation  to  the  question 
concerning  the  defection  from  the  church  and  Christianity:  This 
factoristheolder  spiritual  awakenings  and  movements  in  Sweden. 
Almost  in  all  places  where  these  movements  have  appeared,  re- 
ligious interest  is  strong,  diligence  in  the  use  of  the  Means  of 
Grace  great,  and  the  progress  of  dissenters — both  religious  and 
irreligious — slight. 

The  Separatists  and  Dissenters  should  not  receive  all  the 
blame  for  the  seeming  religious  indifference  of  the  people.  They 
have  helped  indirectly,  but  the  spirit  of  the  times  is  one  of  general 
indifference  as  far  as  true  regilion  is  concerned.  This  indiffer- 
ence is  in  general  not  based  upon  inquirv,  but  rather,  only  a  habit. 

289 


The  Mission-Friends  and  other  dissenters,  not  partaking  of  the 
Lord's  Supper  in  the  churches  form  only  10-12  per  cent  of  the 
absentees. 

Better  times  are  surely  coming.  They  are  here  now.  The 
eastern  horizon  is  becoming  radiant  with  the  promise  of  a  new 
day.  Sweden  will  turn  back  with  life  and  energy  to  the  faith 
and  church  of  the  fathers.  We  should  not  be  too  pessimistic. 
Compare  our  conditions  with  those  obtaining  even  in  glorious 
America,  and  we  have  many  reasons  for  rejoicing. 

At  Wiksjo  and  Back  Again. 

Well,  you  may  not  have  liked  the  long  lecture,  but  I  believe 
you  did,  and  were  glad  to  find  out  all  those  things,  and  from  a 
reliable  source. 

Our  little  horse  has  pulled  his  heavy  load — heavy,  indeed, 
except  when  we  walked — with  much  patience.  We  will  soon  be 
there  now.  But  what  a  hill!  You  should  have  seen  it.  It 
seemed  to  me  that  it  was  a  mile  and  a  half  long  and — well,  just 
about  as  steep,  too.  We  walked  down  the  great  hill,  and  found 
later  that  there  was  still  another  valley  below  the  one  we  had 
reached.  What  a  lovely  view  we  had.  Was  this  Switzerland  all 
at  once?  See  yonder  mountain  range,  see  the  forest,  and  the 
intersecting  valleys.  I  was  charmed.  Yes,  so  it  was  all  the  time 
in  Norrland.     Something  new,  strange,  beautiful  or  sublime. 

Do  you  see  that  silvery  veil  in  the  distance?  That  is  the  Falls. 
By  and  by  we  reached  the  place.  By  and  by  we  climbed  part 
of  the  distance  to  the  top.  Just  think  of  it.  The  w^ater  dashes 
down  over  the  precipices  a  distance  of  175  feet.  In  the  spring- 
time the  volume  of  w^ater  is  very  great  and  the  scene  becomes 
grand.  Now  it  was  simply  beautiful  and  picturesque.  If  those 
Falls  were  in  America,  we  would  make  much  ado  about  them,  but 
the  conservative  citizens  of  Norrland  are  not  much  given  to 
excitement  and  so  say  very  little  about  it. 

To  our  left  and  below  the  Falls  we  passed  the  lovely  Westana 
country-seat,  now  owned  by  a  company.  These  country-seats 
always  filled  me  with  envy.  A  wealthy,  or  even  a  comfortably 
fixed  farmer,  is  the  most  independent  of  all  men.  God  bless 
every  one  of  them. 

There  is  the  quaint,  old  church.  It  was  built  in  octagon  style. 
The  steeple  is  erected  separately  a  short  distance  from  the  church. 
Once  inside  we  found  it  a  very  nice  and  comfortable  edifice. 

290 


1.      THK   INDAL    KIVEH    AT   LIDEX. 

2.      THE    SALMON   CHUTE   AT   THE   DEAD   FALLS: 

3.      TWO   DTNE   HOLES   AT   THE   DEAD   FALLS. 


There  was  to  be  a  service  and  I  had  been  induced  to  preach 
the  sermon.  The  organ  is  a  good  one,  but  the  organist  was 
entirely  too  slow.  It  made  me  provoked  to  think  that  in  this  grand 
and  glorious  century  of  ours  the  leaders  of  our  church  music 
should  insist  on  sending  the  people  rejoicing  to  heaven  to  the 
step  of  a  solemn,  dragging,  never-ending  funeral  march.  Just 
think  of  how  the  splendid  old  chorals  are  mutilated  by  such  men 
at  the  organ.  I  met  the  gentleman  before  the  service,  and  he  was 
very  afifable.     I  am  glad  I  did  not  meet  him  afterwards. 

A  mile  further  on  in  a  most  romantic  place  we  found  the 
parsonage.  The  good  pastor  was  unmarried,  but  a  cultured  and 
refined  lady,  a  sister  of  his,  who  looked  like  an  American,  pre- 
sided with  much  grace  over  the  afifairs  of  the  household. 

We  were  invited  to  cofTee  at  once.  After  a  while  a  bountiful 
supper  followed.  I  was  made  one  of  a  most  pleasant  company 
of  clergymen  and  their  families.  How  fast  the  hours  sped  on. 
It  seemed  that  we  had  to  part  at  once,  but  happily  only  for  the 
night.  The  Rev.  Dean  Bill  and  his  most  estimable  wife,  both 
acquaintances  since  my  previous  tour  in  Sweden,  and  yoiir  humble 
servant  were  invited  to  spend  the  night  with  the  good  pastor. 
The  Bills  had  lived  in  that  humble  parsonage  way  out  in  the 
wilderness  for  twenty  years.  The  pastor's  study  was  converted 
into  a  bed-room  for  the  'American."  I  slept  well  and  awoke 
bright  and  early  the  next  morning.  On  the  shelf  in  the  opposite 
corner  of  the  room  I  saw  a  package  with  the  inscription:  "Mr- 
ginia  Superior  Tobacco.  E  Pluribus  Unum."  Yes,  tobacco 
makes  one  of  them  all.  It  unites  the  world.  Who  did  ever  see 
a  confirmed  bachelor  that  did  not  smoke?  Yes,  let  them  do  it. 
And  how  many  a  husband  would  not  chime  in,  did  he  dare  to: 
"A  good  cigar  is  a  better  companion  than  a  quarrelsome  wife." 
But  then,  a  good  wife  is  better  than  both  of  them. 

After  breakfast  the  ministers  were  called  to  order  by  the  chair- 
man. It  was  a  district  meeting  ("Kontraktsmote").  First  some 
routine  business  was  transacted,  and  then  followed  a  practical, 
theological  discussion,  opened  by  one  of  the  youngeu  ministers 
and  participated  in  by  all.  The  subject  was:  "How  to  produce 
a  warmer  feeling  for  the  church  and  more  loyalty  to  her  institu- 
tions in  the  hearts  of  her  members."  Now  I  listened  with  doubled 
interest.  We  ministers  were  alone.  That  is  the  time  when  peo- 
ple are  themselves.  The  discussion  was  pleasant,  fraternal  and 
sometimes  almost  exciting.     The  young  pastor  who  introduced 

295 


the  subject  was  a  very  warm-hearted  emotional  fellow,  and  some 
of  the  others  called  him  down  somewhat.  Then  he  restated 
some  of  his  former  positions,  and  by  and  by  there  was  a  better 
and  fuller  agreement. 

My  heart  goes  out  to  those  dear  brethren  in  Norrland.  They 
are  noble-minded,  faithful  and  well  qualified  for  their  office.  Oh, 
that  I  may  meet  them  again! 

They  have  an  interesting  rule  in  regard  to  the  bill  of  fare  at 
these  "kontrakt"  meetings.  There  must  not  be  more  than  a 
certain  amount  of  eatables.  The  good  sister  of  the  host  had 
broken  this  agreement  a  little  bit,  by  having  both  "Smorgasbord" 
and  soup.     It  was  her  right  to  have  the  one,  but  not  the  two. 

As  usual  Swedish  beer,  milk  and  coffee  were  served  with  the 
meal,  the  latter  a  little  after  the  conclusion  of  the  real  program. 

Many  Americans  will  be  interested  in  knowing  that  in  this 
romantic  place  speckled  trout  were  plentiful.  Our  good  hostess 
had  provided  herself  with  a  good  supply  for  the  two  days;  and 
for  that  reason,  if  for  no  other,  I  trust  that  she  did  not  take  to 
heart  the  gentle  criticism,  uttered  rather  publicly  by  one  of  the 
youngest  clergymen  present  because  of  the  presence  of  both 
"Smorgasbord"  (a  supply  of  nice,  cold  dishes,  often  used  as  an 
introduction  to  the  warm  dishes  of  a  meal.  I  have  seen  as  many 
as  twelve  dishes  on  this  first  part  of  the  program,  often  inducing 
a  stranger  to  make  up  his  entire  meal  from  what  is  meant  only  as 
a  stepping  stone  to  the  real  thing),  and  soup  at  the  same  time  in 
her  inviting  bill  of  fare. 

The  day  was  done,  and  oh,  how  rapidly.  At  a  quarter  before 
six  we  started  for  Hernosand.  Now  we  were  four  rigs  in  com- 
pany. The  procession  was  headed  by  the  Rev.  Dean  Bill  and  his 
wife,  comfortably  seated  in  a  large  two-wheeled,  one-seated  vehi- 
cle, called  "Norrlands-karra."  We  walked  up  the  great  hill  in  a 
slow  pace.  The  ladies  in  the  company  seemed  to  be  about  the 
best  walkers.  The  "American"  was  the  slowest  of  them  all.  But 
then,  you  ought  to  have  seen  that  hill.     I  say  this  in  self-defense. 

Before  reaching  the  hill  some  of  us  had  ascended  a  "nipa," 
a  sort  of  an  isolated  blufif  formation.  The  legend  says,  a  great 
treasure  is  hid  on  it,  but  no  one  can  find  it,  who  is  not  absolutely 
quiet.  Well,  we  did  not  find  it.  The  good  wife  of  the  Dean  was 
the  best  mountain  climber  of  us  all. 

About  half  ways  we  stopped  for  lunch.  It  was  a  picnic.  The 
venerable  Dean  could  not  forget  that  I  had  come  from  far-away 

296 


America.  He  made  himself  a  "chief,"  called  for  his  "squaw" 
and  invited  the  "braves"  to  form  a  circle  about  himself,  and  so 
we  proceeded  to  empty  the  remnants  of  the  lunch  baskets  of  the 
day  before.  Such  remnants.  As  I  write  this,  the  wish  is  natural, 
that  some  of  them  might  find  their  way  to  my  writing  desk,  as  I 
pen  these  lines  long  before  day-break. 

At  10:55  ^'^  ^1^^  reached  Sabra  and  said  good-bye  to  the  good 
company,  proceeding  alone  in  our  "trilla"  to  Hernosand  and 
reaching  the  Episcopal  residence  at  1 1 130.  Almost  the  entire 
family  was  up,  awaiting  our  arrival.  At  12:30  a.  m.,  in  broad 
daylight  the  "Americans"  were  snugly  put  to  sleep  in  their  com- 
fortable beds.  A  heavy  curtain,  pulled  down  over  the  windows 
helped  us  somewhat  to  believe  that  it  was  night. 

Oh,  that  lovely  northern  summer  night.  One  never  gets  over 
it  in  fact  or  vision.  Thank  God,  that  I  have  seen  it.  How  shal- 
low and  empty  one's  idea  of  summer  is,  until  that  unspeakable 
reality,  a  summer  in  Sweden,  is  added  to  one's  previous  experi- 
ence. 


297 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

The  King  of  Siam  in  Norrland, 

The  unexpected  always  happens.  Who  would  think  that  I, 
a  native  born  American  citizen,  should  travel  to  the  northern  part 
of  Sweden  in  order  to  see  the  King  of  Siam?  But  that  is  just 
what  happened  to  us  in  that  far-away  land  in  the  North.  We  had 
even  to  change  our  plans  for  the  simple  reason  that  this  dark-com- 
plexioned majesty  and  autocrat  had  rented  for  his  own  use  the 
entire  line  of  steamers  on  the  two  rivers,  Angermanelfven  and 
Indalselfven,  for  the  days  upon  which  we  had  planned  to  be 
among  their  regular  passengers. 

Yes,  indeed,  a  heathen,  absolute  sovereign  did  force  all  Chris- 
tian travelers  in  that  section  of  the  country  to  wait  until  some 
other  time.  We  did  not  like  it,  but  vastly  preferred  waiting  to  the 
seeming  necessity  which  King  Oscar  had  to  submit  to:  that  of 
embracing  and — kissing  the  chocolate-colored  husband  of  two 
hundred  wives!  The  politeness  of  the  Swedes  knows  of  no  limits. 
King  Oscar  is  a  Swede. 

The  description  below  is  from  the  pen  of  that  popular  and 
well  known  tourist-correspondent,  the  Hon.  Frank  G.  Carpenter: 

"Chulalongkorn  is  the  King  of  Siam.  He  is  the  richest  ruler 
of  the  world,  with  perhaps  the  exception  of  the  czar,  and  he  has 
more  power  over  his  subjects  than  any  monarch  other  than  of  the 
petty  tyrants  of  savage  Africa.  T  heard  much  about  him  during 
m>  stay  in  Siam  a  few  years  ago.  His  majesty  was  away  from 
his  capital  at  the  time  of  my  visit,  having  gone  up  the  River 
Menam  in  one  of  his  royal  houseboats,  with  about  thirty  of  his 
wives,  and  was  not  expected  back  for  weeks.  I  met,  however,  the 
men  closest  to  him,  for  I  had  letters  from  our  cabinet  ministers 
at  Washington  to  the  leading  Siamese  officials,  and  was  thus 

298 


given  an  inside  view  of  matters  connected  with  his  majesty  and 
his  government. 

His  majesty  is  called  Chiilalongkorn  for  short.  His  real 
title  is  Prabat  Somdet  Pra  Pramend  Maha  Chulalongkorn  Kate 
Klow  Chow-yu-Hua.  He  is  the  ninth  child  of  Maha  Mongkut, 
who  was  the  last  king.  ]Maha  Mongkut  had  eighty-four  children, 
and  of  these  Chulalongkorn  was  chosen  to  be  placed  upon  the 
Siamese  throne.  He  has  thirty-four  half  brothers  and  forty-nine 
half  sisters,  and  he  liked  one  of  his  half  sisters  so  well  that  he  mar- 
ried her,  and  she  is  now  the  queen. 

The  king  is  44  years  old.  He  is  about  5  feet  4  inches  high, 
has  a  plump,  olive-brown  face,  beautiful  eyes  of  a  liquid  black,  a 
broad,  high,  rather  full  forehead,  and  short,  straight  black  hair. 
His  nose  is  short  and  half  flat,  his  lips  are  rather  thick,  and  his 
upper  lip  is  decorated  with  a  silky  black  moustache.  He  dresses 
in  clothes  which  might  pass  well  for  those  of  a  bicycler.  In  the 
place  of  pantaloons  he  wears  a  wide  strip  of  black  silk,  or  surong, 
which  Siamese  gentlemen  wrap  around  their  waists  and  pull 
between  their  legs  so  that  it  forms  a  pair  of  loose  knee  breeches. 
He  wears  long  silk  stockings  and  low  shoes,  while  the  upper  part 
of  his  body  is  clad  in  a  military  coat.  His  majesty  sometimes 
wears  a  helmet.  At  other  times  he  sports  a  derby  hat,  and  it  is 
only  upon  state  occasions  at  his  home  that  he  puts  on  one  of  his 
enormous  crowns.  These  crowns  are  pyramids  of  jewels  set  in 
gold,  rising  in  circular  tiers.,  and  ending  in  a  long  point,  like  that 
of  a  pencil,  eighteen  or  twenty  inches  above  the  head  of  the 
wearer. 

Has  Plenty  of  Money. 

The  king  is  practically  owner  of  Siam,  which  is  one  of  the 
richest  countries  of  Asia.  It  is  bigger  than  Germany,  and  richer 
than  Egypt.  There  is  no  land  anywhere  which  will  produce  more 
valuable  rice.  Its  mighty  forests  are  full  of  teak  wood,  and  its 
mines  contain  gold,  silver  and  precious  stones.  The  king  has 
hundreds  of  elephants,  some  of  which  are  worth  $1,000  apiece, 
and  his  income  is  said  to  amount  to  more  than  $10,000,000  a 
year. 

I  was  told  in  Bangkok  that  he  had  between  $30,000,000  and 
$40,000,000  stored  up  for  a  rainy  day,  and  that  he  could  increase 
his  revenues  at  will.  It  is  the  king  who  decides  what  the  taxes 
are  to  be.     He  taxes  what  he  pleases  and  whom  he  pleases.      He 

299 


gets  his  money  from  all  sorts  of  sources,  from  gambling  to  farm- 
ing, and  the  taxes  upon  some  classes  of  people  are  so  heavy  that 
the  Siamese  men  have  often  to  sell  their  wives  and  children  as 
debt  slaves  to  enable  them  to  foot  the  bills.  I  saw  men  in  chains 
working  on  the  road  under  the  shadow  of  the  palace  wall,  and  I 
was  told  that  the  king's  laws  were  such  that  all  his  subjects  have 
to  work  a  part  of  each  year  without  pay  for  him.  He  has,  you 
know,  about  10,000,000  of  people  in  his  kingdom.  The  king's 
power  is  absolute.  By  a  word  he  can  deprive  a  man  of  his  prop- 
erty, throw  him  into  chains  or  put  him  to  death.  He  owns  not 
only  the  men,  but  the  women  as  well,  and  he  has  the  right  to  take 
into  his  harem  any  maiden  that  attracts  his  fancy. 

A  Visit  to  the  Palace. 
The  king  has  acres  of  palaces.  In  the  center  of  the  big  City 
of  Bangkok  there  is  a  little  city  surrounded  by  a  big  wall  which 
contains  the  quarters  of  his  majesty  and  those  of  his  servants  and 
his  harem.  The  latter  is  shown  to  no  man,  but  I  was  able  to  go 
through  some  of  the  finest  buildings  of  the  palace  proper.  Pass- 
ing the  soldiers  at  the  gate  I  walked  for  perhaps  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  by  one  building  after  another  until  I  came  to  an  immense 
structure  which  in  the  distance  looked  like  marble.  As  I  drew 
closer  I  saw  that  the  marble  was  stucco  and  that  the  building  was 
made  of  brick  or  stone  covered  with  plaster.  It  was,  however, 
very  imposing.  It  covered  a  vast  area  of  ground  and  rose  to 
the  height  of  three  tall  stories  before  the  high-ridged  roof  began. 
It  had  many  steeples  and  towers,  and  the  wide  stairway  which  led 
to  the  front  door  were  guarded  by  immense  elephants  of  some 
metal  plated  with  gold. 

Passing  by  these  golden  elephants,  I  went  up  the  steps  and 
entered  the  king's  council  chamber.  He  has  here  a  throne  which 
looks  like  a  bed,  and  upon  it  I  was  told  that  his  majesty,  as  a  rule, 
sat  with  his  legs  crossed  like  a  Turk  while  he  received  his  cabinet 
ministers  and  discussed  matters  relating  to  his  kingdom.  I 
learned  that  the  chief  work  of  the  palace  was  done  at  night  under 
the  rays  of  the  electric  light,  and  that  the  king  and  the  cabinet 
ministers  did  a  large  part  of  sleeping  in  the  day  time.  On  the 
opposite  side  of  the  hall  I  saw  another  large  room. 
King's  Reception  Room. 

This  was  the  king's  reception  room  for  foreigners.     It  is  gor- 
geously furnished  and  contains  rare  vases  from  Dresden,  beautiful 

300 


carvings  from  Japan  and  China  and  some  wonderful  gold  work 
from  the  jewelers  of  Siam,  There  were  elephants'  tusks  beauti- 
fully polished,  standing  here  and  there  in  the  corners,  and  oil 
paintings  looked  down  from  the  walls. 

The  next  room  into  which  I  was  taken  was  the  most  wonderful 
I  had  even  seen.  It  was  the  throneroom,  where,  upon  great  state 
occasions,  the  king  receives  ministers  of  state.  The  room  covers 
a  vast  extent,  its  ceiling  being  at  least  fifty  feet  from  the  floor.  It 
is  longer  than  the  east  room  at  the  White  House  and  as  wide  as 
a  theater.  At  the  back  there  is  a  rostrum,  upon  which  the  king 
sits  at  such  times  on  a  golden  chair,  under  royal  umbrellas  upheld 
by  servants.  Around  the  room  running  along  the  walls  and 
extending  some  distance  out  from  the  ends  there  is  a  very  thicket 
of  golden  trees  and  bushes.  These  little  trees  have  their  trunks 
and  branches  plated  with  gold.  The  leaves  are  of  solid  gold,  as 
are  also  the  smaller  twigs.  They  are  made  by  the  cunning  gold 
workers  of  the  different  provinces,  and  are  sent  by  the  governor 
and  subordinate  oflficials  in  different  parts  of  the  kingdom  as  pres- 
ents to  his  majesty.  On  one  side  of  the  room  I  saw  a  number  of 
silver  trees  among  the  gold  ones,  and  it  seemed  to  me  that  the 
amount  of  metal  required  to  make  them  must  have  been  worth 
a  fortune. 

The  Queen  and  the  Harem. 

It  is  according  to  law  for  the  king  to  take  one  of  his  half  sisters 
as  a  wife  and  to  make  her  his  queen.  This  keeps  the  royal  family 
comparatively  pure,  as  only  her  sons  can  ascend  to  the  throne. 
The  present  queen  is,  I  am  told,  about  fifteen  years  younger  than 
the  king.  She  is  said  to  be  a  very  progressive  woman,  and  to 
help  him  considerably  in  the  management  of  his  government. 
She  directs  his  household  establishment  and  rules  the  harem. 
Her  majesty  is  a  fair  type  of  the  best-looking  Siamese  maiden. 
She  has  a  light  brown  complexion,  oily  black  hair,  which  is  cut 
short,  and  which  consists  of  black  bristles,  like  those  of  a  shoe 
brush,  standing  out  all  over  her  head. 

Her  majesty  smokes  cigarettes,  as  do  all  the  ladies  of  her 
harem,  and  she  is  very  fond  of  chewing  the  betel  nut.  Betel  nut 
chewing  is  common  among  all  classes  in  Siam.  This  nut  is  the 
green  nut  of  the  Areca  palm.  In  some  respects  it  makes  you 
think  of  a  green  walnut.  It  is  cut  into  little  pieces  and  mixed 
with  tobacco  and  pink-colored  lime,  the  mixture  forming  the  cud 


which  Siamese  ladies  chew  with  more  gusto  than  any  of  our 
American  girls  chew  wax. 

Betel  chewing  is  far  more  disgusting  than  wax  chewing.  As 
the  fair  betel  chewers  masticate  their  toothsome  cud  its  juice 
colors  the  saliva  red,  and  their  mouths  seem  to  be  filled  with 
blood.  Their  teeth  become  as  jet  and  their  lips  are  turned  dark 
brown. 

Black  Teeth  a  Sign  of  Beauty. 

Black  teeth  in  Siam  are  a  sign  of  beauty.  The  people  have  a 
saying  that  any  dog  can  have  white  teeth,  but  it  is  only  those  who 
are  rich  enough  to  afford  the  betel  nut  who  can  have  beautiful 
black  ones.  Not  only  the  queen,  but  also  all  the  ladies  of  the 
harem  chew.  I  visited  a  large  store  right  near  the  palace  which 
furnishes  the  ladies  much  of  their  finery,  their  sweetmeats  and 
their  articles  of  toilet.  Among  other  things  which  are  sold  are 
betel  spittoons.  These  are  little  cups  about  the  size  of  a  shaving 
mug.  Every  one  of  the  king's  wives  has  one  or  two,  and  each 
lady  keeps  one  always  by  her  side,  lifting  it  to  her  lips  from  time 
to  time  and  squirting  out  into  it  her  surplus  saliva. 

Every  lady  of  the  harem  has  also  her  betel  box.  This  is  for 
the  materials  of  chewing.  Some  of  the  boxes  are  of  silver,  and 
those  of  the  king  and  queen  are  set  with  jewels.  During  my  stay 
in  the  king's  store  I  asked  some  questions  as  to  the  fashions 
affected  by  the  queen  and  the  other  ladies  of  the  harem.  I  was 
told  that  the  favorite  costume  of  the  king's  wives  is  the  surong  or 
waist  cloth,  falling  to  the  knees,  and  a  jacket  of  silk.  I  saw  many 
of  the  jackets  in  this  store.  They  were  loosely  made,  and  were 
decorated  with  ribbons  and  Swiss  embroidery.  The  man  told  me 
that  most  of  the  women  preferred  to  go  barefooted,  and  that  most 
of  them  wore  anklets  of  gold. 

Has  One  or  Two  Hundred  Wives. 

The  king  keeps  between  one  and  two  hundred  ladies  in  his 
harem.  They  are  selected  from  the  best  families  of  the  country, 
and  I  was  told  that  the  nobles  of  the  court  were  anxious  to  have 
their  daughters  taken  up  by  the  king,  as  through  them  they  were 
able  to  secure  fat  jobs  and  official  favor.  The  rules  governing 
the  king's  household  establishment  are  very  rigid.  No  woman 
can  go  outside  of  the  palace  without  his  permission,  and  her  days 
of  royal  favor  are  usually  short.  After  the  age  of  25,  if  a  woman 
has  not  had  children,  she  becomes  one  of  the  waiting  maids  of  the 

302 


SOWABHA    PONGSRI,  QUEEN   OF   SIAM. 


younger  wives,  new  girls  being  brought  in  every  year.  The  last 
king  had  an  even  larger  harem  than  the  present  one.  His  wives 
came  from  China  and  India,  as  well  as  Siam,  and  he  was  anxious, 
it  is  said,  to  add  some  well-bred  English  girls  to  his  gallery  of 
beauties. 

With  so  many  w'ives  you  w^ould  think  the  king  would  be  able 
to  do  little  outside  his  own  family.  He  does  a  great  deal.  He 
has  a  cabinet  of  twelve  members  and  many  subordinate  officials, 
although  he  settles  the  most  important  matters  himself.  Not  a 
dollar  can  go  out  of  the  treasury  without  his  signature.  While 
I  was  in  Bangkok  a  young  American  who  had  been  teaching  the 
king's  children  wanted  his  salary.  The  treasury  officials  knew 
that  it  was  due,  but  it  could  not  be  paid  until  his  majesty  came 
back  from  his  trip  into  the  interior. 

Modern  Progress  in  Siam. 

Chulalongkorn  is  the  most  progressive  monarch  Siam  has 
ever  had.  He  has  taken  up  with  foreign  ways,  and  has  to  a 
certain  extent  modernized  Siam.  The  country  is  a  member  of 
the  international  postal  union.  I  saw  the  postman  delivering 
letters,  and  I  was  able  to  register  mail  which  I  sent  to  America. 
There  is  now  an  electric  railroad  in  Bangkok,  and  within  the  last 
few  years  several  steam  railroads  have  been  constructed.  A 
number  of  new  roads  have  been  surveyed,  and  there  is  one  being 
built  from  Bangkok  to  Korat,  about  165  miles  into  the  interior. 
Connections  will  eventually  be  made  with  Burmah,  and  at  no 
distant  date  we  shall  be  able  to  travel  throughout  farther  India 
by  rail.  At  present  a  large  part  of  the  interior  transportation  has 
to  be  done  upon  elephants,  the  only  beasts  which  are  able  to  mak'- 
their  way  through  the  thick  jungle.  The  king  speaks  English 
fluently  and  reads  it  with  ease.  It  is  not  etiquette,  however,  for 
him  to  use  anything  else  than  his  own  language  during  his  audi- 
ences, and  for  this  reason  he  will  have  an  interpreter  during  his 
travels  in  this  country. 

The  elephant  is  the  royal  beast  of  Siam.  You  see  elephant 
pictures  on  all  the  flags.  The  old  coins  had  an  elephant  printed 
on  them,  and  the  white  elephant,  in  fact,  forms  what  you  would 
call  the  coat  of  arms  of  the  king.  The  Siamese  are  Buddhists. 
They  believe  in  the  transmigration  of  souls.  They  think  that  the 
souls  of  their  heroes  or  greatest  men  go  into  elephants,  and  of  the 
very  greatest  into  the  white  elephants.  It  was  for  this  reason  that 
white  elephants  were  worshipped  in  times  past. 

305 


Today  the  king  keeps  a  number  of  white  elephants  in  his 
palace  stables.  I  asked  to  be  shown  these  beasts  during  my  visit 
to  the  palace.  I  expected  to  find  the  animals  decorated  with 
gold  and  purple  and  fastened  with  golden  chains.  I  was  shown 
something  far  different.  The  stables  were  dirty  wooden  sheds, 
and  the  elephants  were  tied  with  rough  ropes  to  wooden  posts. 
The  keepers  in  charge  of  them  were  dirty  and  there  was  no  sign 
of  royalty  about  them.  The  elephants  themselves  looked  freckled. 
They  were  not  pure  white  by  any  means  and  I  have  since  learned 
that  the  white  elephant  is  a  diseased  elephant.  His  whiteness  is 
more  like  that  of  leprosy  than  nature,  and  he  is  the  ugliest  beast 
of  the  elephant  kind. 

I  spent  some  time  in  the  wonderful  Buddhists  temples  of 
Bangkok.  There  was  one  right  next  to  the  palace  of  the  king  in 
which  his  majesty  daily  worships  during  his  stay  iii  his  capital. 
This  temple  has  a  spire  hundreds  of  feet  high  made  of  coil  after 
coil  of  masonry  plated  with  gold.  There  is,  I  was  told,  more 
than  $100,000  worth  of  gold  upon  it.  It  has  doors  of  ebony  inlaid 
with  mother-of-pearl,  and  it  is  lighted  with  candles  of  all  sizes, 
some  as  big  around  as  your  finger,  others  of  the  size  of  your  waist. 
These  candles  are  in  candlesticks  plated  with  gold.  They  will 
burn  for  weeks  and  their  flickering  flames  are  supposed  to  dispose 
of  a  multitude  of  sins. 

Great  God  of  Siam. 

In  this  temple  there  is  one  room  the  floor  of  which  is  covered 
with  a  carpet  of  woven  silver  wire.  Its  chief  idol  is  the  famed 
emerald  god.  This  god  is  about  a  foot  high.  It  is  made  of  pure 
gold,  mixed  with  jewels.  It  is  set  with  diamonds,  topazes,  sap- 
phires and  rubies,  and  it  represents  a  vast  amount  of  money. 
The  idol  is  placed  high  up  above  the  floor  of  the  temple,  almost 
under  the  roof.  It  is  so  uigh  that  it  is  hard  to  appreciate  its  valuj 
but  so  holy  that  the  king  bows  before  it  every  morning,  and  the 
hundred  ladies  of  the  harem  come  in  now  and  then,  and,  bending 
their  naked  knees  upon  the  cold  floor,  pray  to  it.  Siam  has  hun- 
dreds of  other  temples.  They  are  by  all  odds  the  finest  buildings 
in  Bangkok.  The  contributions  to  them  and  the  priests  do  much 
to  keep  the  people  poor.  There  is  no  city  of  the  world  that  has 
so  many  Buddhist  priests  as  Bangkok.  Siam  is  the  home  of 
Buddhism  and  Bangkok  is  the  central  station  for  its  worship. 
There  are  25,000  Buddhist  priests  in  the  city.     These  are  of  all 

306 


ages,  from  i6  to  80,  and  the  religion  is  such  that  any  man  can  be 
a  priest  if  he  chooses.  Every  Siamese  man  is  expected  to  become 
a  priest  for  a  certain  part  of  his  hfe,  and  King  Chulalongkorn  has, 
I  am  told,  served  two  terms  in  the  priesthood.  This  being  a 
priest  changes  a  man's  relations  to  his  fellows  for  the  time.  He 
is  then  considered  holy  to  his  family  as  well  as  to  others.  I  saw 
mothers  bowing  down  to  their  boy's  sons  who  were  acting  as 
priests.  The  priests  shave  their  heads.  They  go  about  with 
nothing  but  yellow  strips  of  cloth  wound  about  them,  relying 
upon  the  gifts  of  the  people  for  food." 

How  did  King  Chulalongkorn  himself  appear  while  traveling 
in  Norrland?  Well,  he  was  now  dressed  in  a  dark  blue  mariner's 
sack-coat,  stood  for  a  while  bareheaded  on  deck,  had  his  hair 
parted  in  the  middle,  moustache,  hair  and  beard  a  little  gray. 
Sharp  eyes,  looked  quite  intelligent,  and  was  somewhat  corpulent. 

A  few  of  the  company  went  aboard  his  stately  ship,  but  one 
v.ho  has  seen  other  large  steamers,  would  not  find  anything  espe- 
cially remarkable  in  what  was  to  be  seen.  We  w'ill  give  you  an 
interesting  description  of  the  royal  ship  from  H.  P. 

"Maha  Chakrkri,"  the  pleasure-yacht  of  the  king  of  Siam. 

Last  Friday  and  Saturday  thousands  of  inquisitive  people  went 
out  to  behold  the  white,  royal  yacht  wdth  its  warlike  appearance. 
In  his  imagination  one  could  see  its  interior,  equipped  with  such 
incomparable,  Asiatic  luxury,  as  only  a  man  with  the  enormous 
treasures  of  the  king  of  Siam,  can  afford.  Among  these  treas- 
ures his  great  harem  is  perhaps  the  most  noted.  It  w^as  the  sub- 
ject for  most  lively  discussions  here,  some  claiming  that  40,  others 
60  of  his  favorite  concubines  accompanied  him  on  the  journey. 

Thanks  to  the  kindness  of  Consul  General  Johnson,  on  Satur- 
day we  received  a  ticket  admitting  us  to  the  interior  of  Maha 
Chakrkri,  while  the  king  was  making  a  trip  to  "Haggviken." 
But  special  permission  was  not,  as  we  first  thought,  necessary. 
Vv^ith  the  greatest  kindness  possible,  all  who  wished  to  board  the 
ship  were  allowed  to  do  so,  and  soon  there  was  a  regular 
migration  by  small  steamers  and  rowing  boats  out  to  the 
royal  yacht. 

Shortly  before  our  arrival  a  number  of  new  uniforms  had  been 
distributed  to  the  crew,  with  which  they  were  just  now  in  the  act 
of  arraying  themselves.  There  was  a  rush  and  activity  on  the 
afore-deck  like  in  a  bee-hive;  and  the  little  yellow  and  brownish 
Siamese,  among  whom  now  and  then  appeared  a  contrasting 

307 


Chinese,  were  making  their  toilet,  without  paying  the  least  atten- 
tion to  their  numerous  spectators. 

That  they  were  good  humored,  we  found  at  once,  and  soon  our 
city  and  country  people  fraternized,  in  sweetest  harmony,  with  the 
strangers  from  Eastern  Asia.  We  had,  of  course,  a  little  difficulty 
with  the  language,  but  through  signs  and  gestures  we  got  along 
fairly  well,  even  in  such  a  troublesome  affair  as  trading  watches. 
The  business  transaction  by  money  was,  of  course,  done  more 
easily.  The  little  Siamese,  with  their  almond-shaped  eyes,  look- 
ing around  with  that  melancholy  expression  which  is  so  charac- 
teristic of  the  Orientals,  really  became  charming  to  our  Swedish 
taste,  when  they  smiled,  and  their  ivory  teeth  brightened  their 
faces. 

The  Chinese,  with  their  smoothly  shaven  heads  and  long 
queues,  strode  about,  and  did  not  seem  to  be  as  sociable  as  their 
neighbors. 

It  soon  was  clear  to  us  that  these  Asiatics,  at  least  those  on  the 
afore-deck,  did  not  greatly  distinguish  themselves  for  any  pedan- 
try in  cleanliness.  The  odor,  arising  from  that  place,  was  enough 
to  convince  the  visitor  of  this  fact,  in  a  most  forcible  manner. 

Their  bill  of  fare  does  not  present  a  great  variety;  in  fact,  it 

consists  only  of  rice  with ,  and with  rice.     On  a  grate  in 

the  oven  something,  very  much  like  the  skeleton  of  a  flounder, 
is  broiled.     It  was  dried  fish,  which  probably  should  be  eaten 

to  rice  with ,  which  laid  cooked  and  prepared  in  a  large  tub, 

standing  on  the  floor,  and  out  of  which  they  all,  one  after  the 
other,  supplied  themselves  with  a  handful. 

We  will,  however,  not  wait  for  the  meal,  which  is  about  to  be 
taken,  but  hurry  to  the  upper  deck,  to  get  fresh  air,  and  to  see 
the  glorious  things,  that  Maha  Chakrkri  has  aboard.  Thanks  to 
the  kindness  of  the  officers,  this  did  not  meet  with  any  difficulty. 

''Maha  Chakrkri"  is  a  stately,  well  proportioned  vessel;  its 
appearance  reminds  us  of  "Hohenzollern,"  but  it  is  smaller  and 
looks  more  like  a  man-of-war. 

Yet,  one  almost  feels  deceived,  when  entering  the  saloons  and 
apartments.  Of  that  sumptuous,  oriental  luxury,  concerning 
which  fancy  has  created  so  many  ideas,  very  little  is  seen. 

The  steamer  is  made  in  England  and  the  equipments  are  fully 
European,  with  all  English  accom.modations. 

The  only  large  room,  that  showed  oriental  style,  was  the  king's 
reception  room  on  upper  deck.     Even  here  chairs  and  tables 

308 


were  of  European  fashion,  but  the  tables  were  covered  with 
costly  cloths,  glittering  with  gold  and  silver.  The  walls  were 
adorned  with  splendid  arms,  having  rich  platings  and  fillings  of 
gold,  and  on  the  corner  tables  stood  strange  and,  no  doubt,  very 
expensive  ornaments. 

In  Siam  the  elephant  is  a  sacred  animal,  and  almost  every- 
where one  could  notice  this  animal  represented,  often  in  images 
of  a  foot's  height,  richly  decorated  with  silver. 

Surprisingly  simple  was  the  room,  where  the  king  used  to 
take  his  after  dinner  rest,  and  which  he  also  used  for  sleeping- 
room  during  his  journeys  in  Siam.  The  entire  equipment  con- 
sisted of  a  feather  bed,  placed  on  the  floor,  and  a  pair  of  pillows. 
A  small  table  in  the  corner  completed  the  furniture.  This  room 
on  the  poop  joined  the  open  dining  room,  which  by  no  means 
showed  any  special  pomp. 

The  library,  the  toilet  rooms,  and  the  crown  prince's  saloon 
were  costly  and  comfortably  arranged.  In. the  library  was  a  neat 
collection  of  books,  among  which  were  found  in  elegant  bindings, 
Arabian  Nights,  In  Darkest  Africa,  History  of  the  French  Revo- 
lution, Burton's  History  of  Scotland,  books  on  natural  philosophy 
and  others. 

On  the  lower  deck  was  a  suite  of  cabins  on  each  side  of  a  long 
corridor.  These  are  the  rooms  for  the  ladies  of  the  harem,  when 
they  accompany  the  king  on  his  voyages.  Outside  of  each 
stood  a  leather  trimmed  trunk,  and  on  the  door  was  a  card  with 
Siamese  inscription,  probably  the  name  of  the  occupier  of  the 
room. 

In  spite  of  all  rumors  and  assertions,  there  was  not  a  single 
little  odalisk  aboard.  The  favorite  lady  of  his  majesty  was 
excluded  from  this  journey,  of  which  fact  we  convinced  ourselves, 
although  a  guard  kept  watch  below,  with  loaded  gun. 

In  the  stern,  at  the  extreme  end  of  the  ship,  was  the  queen's 
room,  spacious  and  light,  the  floor  covered  with  Brussels  carpets, 
and  the  walls  adorned  with  fine  mirrors,  and  very  large  paintings. 
Among  these  was  a  picture  of  the  queen,  presenting  her  dressed 
in  European  style,  with  a  sash  from  one  shoulder  to  the  other. 
A  simple  opium  pipe  of  bamboo  was  also  seen  among  fhe  objects 
in  the  room. 

The  cost  of  Maha  Chakrkri  is  not  one-tenth  that  of  "Hohen- 
zollern."  According  to  the  statement  of  one  of  the  ofificers.  it 
was  estimated  to  be  96,000  pounds  of  about  $466,500.     The  cap- 

309 


tain  was  Mr.  Cunning,  having  the  rank  of  captain  in  the  EngHsh 
navy.  Besides  him,  there  were  officers  of  EngHsh,  Danish  and 
Norwegian  nationaHty.  The  crew  numbered  340  men,  among 
whom  10  different  languages  were  spoken.  It  seems  strange  that 
the  conversation  between  the  officers  was  carried  on  mostly  in 
Danish. 

The  Siamese  sailors  wore  blue  uniforms,  and  appeared,  when 
at  liberty,  quite  unembarrassed,  laughing  and  joking  among  them- 
selves. 

In  Sundsvall,  Hernosand,  Nyland  and  Solleftea  the  king  was 
received  in  a  magnificent  manner.  He  was  waited  upon  in  all 
possible  ways,  and  he  seemed  to  be  very  much  pleased.  Con- 
siderable money  was  spent  for  flags,  ensigns  and  decorations.  On 
the  "Indals  river"  alone,  the  steamship  company  spent  for  this 
purpose  over  400  crowns  (about  $110). 


310 


CHAPTER  XVn. 

To  Beautiful  Nordingra. 

One  lovely  afternoon  the  bishop  and  some  members  of  his 
family  with  us  two  Americans  started  in  a  small  steamer  for  a  visit 
to  beautiful  Nordingra,  one  of  the  mojt  charming  trips  and  places 
I  know  of.  Do  not  visit  Xorrland  without  seeing  Nordingra. 
Follow  my  advice  and  you  will  thank  me  for  it  afterwards.  Would 
you  like  to  attend  a  wedding  and  not  see  the  bride?  No.  Well, 
then,  by  all  means  see  Nordingra,  while  in  Norrland.  We 
started  in  the  best  of  spirits  from  the  knowledge  that  something 
good  was  in  store  for  us. 

I  overheard  one  of  the  passengers  speaking  of  the  opposition 
of  the  Good-Templars  to  a  prominent  clergyman,  candidate  for 
the  appointment  to  a  certain  pastorate,  saying:  "If  the  Good- 
Templars  oppose  him,  he  will  be  elected."  I  made  bold  to  ask 
him  why?  "They  have  now  mixed  themselves  into  many  other 
social  questions  besides  that  of  temperance,  and  the  people  in 
general  have  lost  faith  in  them." 

I  overheard  another  discussion.  It  was  one  of  the  funniest 
and  most  foolish  I  have  ever  heard.  A  "Norrlanding"  was  op- 
posed to  Fish-Culture,  "because,"  as  he  said,  "it  is  an  infringe- 
ment upon  the  rights  of  the  Creator."  One  of  our  party,  a  splen- 
did debator,  tried  to  force  some  common  sense  into  the  stupid 
brains  of  this  man,  but  I  had  to  smile  at  his  utter  failure  of  accom- 
plishing said  purpose. 

We  met  a  colossal  lumber  steamer,  "Verdandi"  of  Gothen- 
burg, and  began  to  admire  the  scenery.  Look  at  yonder  shore. 
Notice  the  long  series  of  bluffs  and  mountains  and  the  different, 
pleasing  efifects  of  the  light  thrown  over  them  from  the  cloudy 
sky. 

We  pass  the  two  outlets  of  that  great  river,  the  pride  of  all 

311 


Sweden,  Angermanelfven,  and  admired  the  beautiful,  ever  chang- 
ing views  more  and  more.  Just  now  our  waterway  looks  like  a 
narrow  river,  then  it  widens  out  into  a  lake.  See  those  islands 
and  capes,  and  further  on  a  mountain  or  two,  a  whole  range,  and 
back  of  them  other  ranges,  extending  in  irregular,  enchanting 
terraces  back  of  one  another. 

Now  we  enter  Gafviksfjarden,  The  water  is  calm  and  its  sur- 
face forms  one  great,  shining  mirror.  Look  at  that  mountain  to 
the  left,  that  long  continuation  of  hills,  to  the  right,  another 
mountain  further  on,  seen  in  a  paler  light.  Notice  the  many  in- 
lets, islands  and  terraces.  It  has  rained  a  little.  See  the  inde- 
scribable veil  of  the  light,  airy  mist,  cast  over  parts  of  the  view, 
not  hiding,  but  rather  calling  attention  to  its  beauties.  I  shall 
never  forget  the  charms  of  that  hour. 

After  a  little  we  land.  The  pastor  and  two  of  his  hired  men, 
"Nisse"  and  "Pelle,"  are  there  to  meet  us.  We  are  placed  in  a 
large,  low,  and  flat  boat,  containing  settees,  etc.,  for  our  comfort, 
and  then  the  strong  arms  of  "Nisse"  and  "Pelle"  work  the  oars. 
The  distance  is  about  a  mile.  At  the  Nordingra  landing  the  hos- 
pitable, kind-hearted  and  intelligent  wife  of  the  pastor  meets  us. 

The  parsonage  is  a  new  one.  It  is  one  of  the  best  and  most 
comfortable  we  ever  entered  while  in  Sweden,  if  not  the  very  best. 
The  curtains  were  home-made  in  beautiful  patterns.  How  I  do 
wish  we  could  have  brought  some  of  them  with  us  home.  _  The 
carpets  were  also  home-made  and  very  attractive.  In  fact,  as 
much  as  possible  was  home-made,  strong,  excellent  and  the  just 
pride  of  a  sensible,  praiseworthy  people,  believing  more  and  more 
in  home-sloyd. 

The  rooms  were  large  and  airy,  the  "Sal,"  or  dining-room,  be- 
ing 30x18  feet.  What  a  pleasure  to  sleep  in  the  large  bed-rooms 
usually  assigned  to  guests  in  dear,  old  Sweden.  What  a  welcome 
we  received.  The  bishop  had  come  with  us,  and  Nordingra's  par- 
sonage contains  only  the  most  loyal  people.  The  good  pastor  is 
78,  but  looked  much  younger,  and  stronger  than  seven  years  ago. 
He  had  a  younger  minister  as  his  assistant. 

Sometimes  those  assistants  are  very  peculiar,  to  say  the  least. 
This  pastor  had  one  of  that  kind  a  few  years  ago.  At  a  "hus- 
forhor"  (an  examination  of  the  religious  knowledge  of  the  mem- 
bers of  the  congregation)  this  assistant  called  upon  the  pastor, 
his  superior,  to  arise,  and  examined  him  before  all  the  people  in 
the  catechism. 

312 


3  .i„A^s?lH^.°.■^«s,s«.^"-K?ef.?H^rH*^A-- 

3.      STORE   KEEPEK^^  ^^^^^^    ^^^   CAPTAIN   L.  M.  ALTIN. 


As  might  be  expected  the  supper  was  fit  for  a  king.  First 
came  the  "Smorgasbord,"  then  fried  perch  and  one  more  kind  of 
fish;  omelettes  with  mushrooms;  veal-cutlets  and  potatoes;  straw- 
berries and  cream;  tea,  chocolate,  Swedish  beer.  After  supper 
the  most  of  us  took  a  long  walk. 

The  next  day  was  Sunday.  At  lo  o'clock  we  walked  over  to 
the  church.  Services  w'cre  held  in  three  other  places  within  the 
congregation  that  day.  Notwithstanding  this  fact  a  good  audi- 
ence was  present.  The  dear  old  country  people  stared  with  un- 
feigned curiosity  at  the  bishop  and  his  family. 

The  aged  pastor  read  the  liturgy  in  a  clear,  ringing  voice, 
and  his  assistant  preached  the  sermon.  His  subject  was  a  diffi- 
cult one,  based,  of  course,  upon  the  regular  morning  lesson: 
"How  we  should  look  upon  the  faults  and  sins  of  our  neighbor." 
The  sermon  was  a  written  one.  The  church  had  huge  stoves  with 
trebled  stove-pipes;  fine  chandeliers,  one  of  beautiful  crystal- 
glass;  a  baptismal  font,  supported  by  an  angel;  pews  with  rather 
straight  backs,  but  with  places  for  books,  umbrellas  and  a  stool 
for  the  support  of  the  feet. 

The  organ  was  a  good  instrument,  but  the  organist  supplied 
his  own  harmonies  to  the  chorals,  making  part-singing  impos- 
sible. It  is  a  detestable  custom.  Chorals  rendered  in  four  parts 
are  wonderfully  effective. 

The  ministers  of  Sweden  have  to  read  many  secular  announce- 
ment which  have  no  right  to  be  heard  in  the  sanctuary.  They  be- 
long to  the  public  bulletin-board,  not  to  the  worship  of  God, 

After  the  conclusion  of  the  service  we  saw  the  curios  and 
mementoes  of  the  place. 

One  of  the  steps  to  the  church  is  built  from  tombstones,  some 
of  them  with  interesting  inscriptions.  Nordingra  is  an  old  place. 
There  was  a  dean  already  in  1345,  "Nicholaus,  Dean  of  Anger- 
manland."  To  illustrate  how  only  a  part  of  an  inscription  may 
become  very  misleading,  I  will  just  mention  that  on  the  tomb- 
stone of  a  pious  pastor,  we  read:  "Nolit  ire  ad  Christum" — The 
balance  we  could  not  make  out. 

Some  of  the  churches  in  Norrland  are  very  cold  in  the  winter. 
At  Gellivare  they  have  a  heating  apparatus,  but  the  cold  is  some- 
times 24  degrees  below  zero.  The  pastor  had  preached  in  his 
youth  in  a  temperature  of  30  degrees  below  zero.  In  Vilhelmina 
parish  the  assistant  pastor  had  preached  dressed  in  an  immense 
fur-coat  and  huge  overshoes. 

Z^7 


I  heard  of  a  lumber  company  owning  about  750,000  acres  of 
timber  lands.  They  cut  only  certain  size  of  trees,  thereby  mak- 
ing their  property  more  valuable  all  the  time,  instead  of  destroy 
ing  it,  as  we  do  in  America.  Strict  laws  on  this  subject  are  in 
operation  in  several  provinces  in  Sweden  and  strong  attempts  are 
made  to  make  them  apply  to  the  entire  kingdom. 

The  parish  of  Nordingra  contains  ']2  lakes  and  a  population  of 
3,500.  The  people  are  all  Lutherans,  with  the  exception  of  six 
Baptists  and  seven  or  ten  Mission-Friends,  I  do  not  remember 
which. 

In  the  afternoon  we  ascended  a  neighboring  mountain, 
Kjorningsberget.  The  pathway  through  the  woods  was  more 
than  charming  and  what  can  I  say  of  the  view  from  the  mountain- 
top?  Nothing.  My  words  are  entirely  inadequate.  We  gazed 
at  it  in  silent  admiration  interspersed  with  laudatory  interjections. 

There  we  sang.  They  always  do  in  Sweden,  and  they  know 
almost  everything  by  heart.  We  rendered  "Nearer,  My  God,  to 
Thee,"  "Du  gamla,  du  friska"  and  several  selections  from  the 
Swedish  hymn  book,  as  33;  46:  6-8;  124:  i,  4.  It  was  a  song 
service  never  to  be  forgotten. 

The  aged  pastor  said:  "When  I  was  in  the  fangs  of  death 
once,  awaiting  my  last  moment,  then  I  remembered  the  6th  stanza 
of  46th.  Let  me  give  it  to  you,  dear  reader,  it  may  render  you 
similar  service  some  day : 

V.  6  of  Ps.  46  in  Swedish  Psalmbok : 

"For  me  His  life.  His  precious  blood 

He  here  did  up  deliver, 
That  from  the  doom  which  threatening  stood, 

I  might  be  saved  forever. 
My  surety  He  'fore  God  became. 
His  death  purged  out  my  sin  and  shame. 

He  has  become  my  Saviour. 


V.7. 


"To  heaven  again  He  did  ascend 

From  this  earth's  pain  and  sadness. 
From  there  His  Holy  Spirit  sent. 
To  fill  my  heart  with  gladness, 
To  comfort  me  in  evil  days. 
To  lead  me  to  amend  my  ways. 
Into  all  truth  to  guide  me. 
318 


V.8. 

"To  God  on  high  for  evermore, 

Be  praise  and  glory  given, 
His  everlasting  name  adore, 

Who  sent  us  help  from  heaven, 
And  by  Christ's  death  did  overcome 
Sin,  pangs  of  death  and  hell's  dread  doom. 

What  power  can  now  destroy  us?" 

— Translated  by  G.  H.  T. 

Now  we  return.  The  timber  lands  of  the  parsonage  are 
worth  30,000  kronor.  The  pastor  is  comfortably  fixed  in  every 
way,  and  is  a  devout,  loyal,  intelligent  and  satisfied  man.  God 
bless  his  old  age.  his  family  and  his  church. 

How  short  that  day  seemed.  We  were  rowed  back  to  the 
landing-place  of  the  steamer.  There  were  nineteen  of  us  in  the 
boat  now.  Strong,  youthful  voices  rendered  the  national  air. 
A  few  minutes  more  and  we  had  boarded  our  steamer.  I  see  the 
kind  Nordingra  friends  yet,  waving  their  hats  and  handkerchiefs 
as  a  kind  good-bye  to  us  all. 

The  moon  up  there  is  the  queerest,  most  sensible  and  intelli- 
gent kind  of  a  moon  I  ever  heard  of.  As  the  steamer  pulled  out, 
we  noticed  something  peculiar  in  the  eastern  horizon.  It  looked 
something  like  an  iceberg  on  fire.  We  guessed  at  it.  Some  said 
it  was  a  small  cloud,  others  said  it  was  the  moon.  The  captain 
finally  became  our  referee.  It  was  the  moon.  For  about  an  hour 
it  looked  sleepily  out  over  the  placid  surface  of  the  Baltic,  and 
then  concluded  that  it  was  not  needed  at  all  in  the  summer  night 
of  Norrland,  and  went  home  to  sleep,  w'ithout  ever  getting  really 
out  of  bed.  At  no  time  did  we  see  more  than  two-thirds  of  its 
surface  above  the  horizon. 

Well,  we  had  long  before  that  given  up  w^ondering  at  any- 
thing in  Norrland,  but  even  now  there  is  something  peculiarly 
weird  and  fantastic  to  me  in  the  memory  of  that  full-moon. 


319 


CHAPTER  XVin. 

In  Splendid  and  Prosperous  Sundsvall. 

Sundsvall  is  the  business  metropolis  of  all  Norrland.  Upon 
my  first  visit  to  Sweden  some  one  said:  "That  is  an  American 
city,  it  is  dirty,  handles  an  immense  business  and  is  very  wicked." 
That  was  seven  years  ago.  The  Sundsvall  of  today  is  a  marvel. 
It  is  Chicago  on  a  small  scale.  No  visitor  could  now  dream  that 
the  whole  place  was  in  ashes  only  nine  years  ago.  And  it  is  clean 
and  well  kept.  The  "Queen  City  of  Lake  Michigan"  will  live 
many  a  year  before  it  will  have  as  white  a  face  as  this  plucky  little 
city  of  the  Baltic.  As  to  its  business,  that  keeps  on,  and  its  wick- 
edness is  no  worse  than  at  other  similar  places. 

I  naturally  defend  Sundsvall,  because  I  like  it.  It  is  Ameri- 
can, no,  it  excels  us  in  many  things. 

Nowhere  in  all  of  my  experiences  have  I  heard  of  such 
unanimity  of  purpose,  such  grandly  developed  public  spirit,  and 
so  much  of  a  self-sacrificing  generosity  as  just  here  in  Sundsvall. 
The  city  is  not  large,  only  14,000  inhabitants,  but  it  looks 
much  larger  and  has  some  institutions  that  would  be  creditable 
to  a  place  of  many  times  that  population. 

Let  me  give  you  the  cost  of  some  of  the  new  public  institu- 
tions: 

The  New  Church 470,000  kroner. 

Young  Ladies'  College 225,000 

Gymnasium 90,000 

College 300,000 

Main  Public  School 275,000        " 

City  Hall 400,000        " 

The  Altin  Sloyd  School 75,ooo 

Parsonage 70,000 

Seamen's  Chapel 50,000 

Three  other  school  houses 80,000 

320 


Then  there  are  buisiness  buildings  ranging  in  price  300,000 
kronor  to  800,000  kronor,  not  including  the  cost  of  the  lots. 

Sundsvall  is  a  lumber  center.     Its  lumber  shipments  amount 
to  nearly  26,000,000  kronor,  or  a  little  more  than  one-fifth  of  the 
entire  lumber  export  of  Sweden.     There  are  32  sawmills  in  the 
Sundsvall  district,  giving  employment  to  6,000  people. 
What  do  they  pay  for  work  in  Sundsvall? 

Carpenters  receive 35         ore  per  hour 

Masons  receive 45 

Laborers  at  the  wharf  receive 45@5o  "      "       " 

Common  laborers  receive 25@30  "      "       " 

A  hired  girl  receives  from  ioo@i20  kronor  and  upwards  a 
year. 

A  cook  (girl)  receives  from  200@250  kronor  and  upwards  a 
year. 

A  wholesale  dealer  in  groceries  and  provisions  in  Sundsvall 
last  year  had  a  business  amounting  to  2,750,000  kronor. 

The  people  of  Sundsvall  have  learned  to  give.  That  is  to  their 
credit.  The  idea  is  that  when  God  in  His  Providence  allows 
great  sums  of  money  to  come  into  the  hands  of  an  individual  or  a 
family,  the  owners  should  use  such  wealth  for  the  public  good. 
When  that  is  done,  the  rich  man  becomes  a  public  benefactor; 
when  that  is  not  done,  the  wealthy  man  becomes  a  miser  or  a 
profligate. 

Here  are  some  of  the  donations: 

Hospital  for  Sick  Children 62,542  kronor 

For  Maintenance  of  the  same 41,496 

Motherhood  Home 38,043 

For  the  Poor 66,555 

For  Municipal  Purposes 400,798 

For  the  Support  of  Aged  Servants 100,138 

For  Educational  Purposes 1 15,994 

For  Church  Purposes,  about 160,000 

Of  donations,  606,392  kronor  are  spent  for  purposes  indicated, 
and  833,563 kronor  yet  remain,making  a  total  of  1,439,956  kronor. 
The  largest  part  of  this  sum  has  come  from  members  of  two 
families,  the  Altins  and  Hedbergs.  The  donations  are  made 
almost  without  exception  since  1882.  The  above  does  not,  of 
course,  include  all  testimonies  to  the  generosity  of  the  people  of 
Sundsvall.  It  seems  to  me,  however,  that  what  has  been  men- 
tioned is  a  good  showing  for  a  city  of  only  14,000  inhabitants 

321 


during  15  years,  which  include  the  date  of  the  terrible  con- 
flagration. 

The  pastor,  Rev.  J.  O.  Bostrom,  born  in  Lulea,  1841,  member 
of  the  Swedish  Congress  1 879-1 881,  has  been  a  source  of  much 
blessing  to  the  city.  His  pastorate  began  in  1882.  He  has  been 
"through  the  fire"  in  more  than  one  sense  and  has  been  equal  to 
the  test  and  task.  I  learned  to  admire  that  man.  Visit  Sundsvall, 
see  how  well  the  church,  parsonage,  colleges,  schools  and  other 
institutions  of  a  similar  kind  are  located  and  organized,  and  then 
ask  yourself,  if  you  have  average  experience  and  intelligence: 
"Who  has  been  back  of  it  all,  who  has  been  the  leader,  the  organ- 
izer, the  brains  and  heart?"  In  every  place,  in  every  movement, 
in  all  important  undertakings,  there  must  be  a  leading  spirit.  If 
I  am  not  much  mistaken.  Rev.  Bostrom  has  occupied  that  posi- 
tion in  church  and  educational  affairs  in  Sundsvall  for  fifteen 
years.  All  honor  to  such  a  man,  such  an  indefatigable  worker, 
such  a  faithful  servant  of  God  and  man. 

The  assistant  pastor.  Rev.  Olof  Arbman,  is  a  fine  gentleman, 
one  of  the  best  singers  in  the  church  of  Sweden,  and  a  popular 
pulpit  orator.  He  has  served  very  acceptably  in  Sundsvall  one 
year  longer  than  Rev.  Bostrom. 

The  pastors  have,  of  course,  been  ably  seconded  by  brainy, 
big-hearted  and  liberal  laymen. 

The  most  prominent  citizen  of  today  in  Sundsvall  is  probably 
the  Hon.  Mr.  Arrhusiander,  a  wealthy,  sympathetic  and  intelligent 
leader,  respected  by  everybody  and  the  incumbent  in  his  day  of 
many  offices  of  trust  and  honor,  among  which  may  be  mentioned: 
Chairman  of  the  city  council,  speaker  of  the  legislature,  and  mem- 
ber of  the  Swedish  Congress.  He  has  been  kind  and  liberal  to 
the  churches,  to  his  laborers  and  has  in  general  showed  a  spirit 
of  judicious  benevolence,  worthy  of  acknowledgment  and  praise. 

How  happy  is  the  community  whose  leading  men,  the  men 
who  receive  the  best  a  commonwealth  has  to  ofifer,  in  business  and 
official  life,  are  leaders  also  in  benevolence  and  everything  that 
testifies  to  a  true  public  spirit. 

Let  us  take  a  walk  in  the  city.  We  are  fortunate  then  to  start 
out  in  the  company  of  the  bishop  and  Rev.  Bostrom.  Do  you 
notice  the  Esplanade  with  its  shady  trees  and  generous  propor- 
tions? A  capital  idea.  It  looks  well,  and  it  adds  to  the  safety  of 
the  city  in  case  of  another  fire. 

We  stopped  first  of  all  at  the  City  Hall.     It  was  a  surprisingly 

222 


fine  building,  and  I  am  not  exaggerating  when  the  statement  is 
made  that  it  would  have  looked  well  in  a  city  of  100,000  people. 
We  saw  the  Festival  Hall,  the  Hall  of  the  City  Council  with  a 
portrait  of  Rector  Berggren,  and  other  rooms. 

We  next  walked  on  to  the  church.  It  is  a  magnificent  Gothic 
structure.  In  the  choir  were  beautiful  stained-glass  windows. 
There  are  three  naves.  I  saw  Bible  verses  inscribed  under  the 
windows.  The  organ  contains  thirty  sets  of  pipes.  The  acoustics 
are  unusually  perfect  in  this  large  structure. 

The  doors  are  kept  open  every  day.  This  is  right  and  com- 
mendable from  many  points  of  view.  Let  the  stranger,  and  he 
that  is  in  sorrow  and  trouble,  or  desires  to  offer  special  thanks, 
always  find  the  sanctuary  ready  to  receive  him. 

Next  in  order  we  Americans  saw  the  College  for  Girls.  It 
has  a  beautiful  chapel,  but  the  seats  have  no  backs  to  them,  an 
unreasonable  remnant  of  olden  times,  yet  found  also  in  many 
other  college  chapels  in  Sweden. 

They  have  a  place  where  deaconesses  take  care  of  little  chil- 
dren, whose  mothers  for  some  reason  or  other  have  no  time  to  do 
so.  We  visited  the  place  and  were  simply  charmed  by  its  kind- 
hearted  and  practical  arrangements.  Then  the  splendid  public 
school  house,  the  main  one,  was  seen.  We  passed  the  meeting- 
houses of  the  Methodists,  Baptists,  Mission-Friends  and  Salvation 
Army,  that  of  the  Baptists  being  the  largest. 

Some  of  the  business  blocks  are  very  imposing;  and  we  found 
Hotel  Knaust  a  splendid  hostelry.  The  dining  hall  is  furnished, 
or  rather  decorated,  in  the  fashion  of  times  long  gone  by.  The 
efifect  is  very  pleasing. 

One  day  I  attended  a  mission  meeting  at  Sundsvall.  It  was 
held  in  the  middle  of  the  week,  and  yet  I  believe  the  audience 
numbered  from  twelve  to  fifteen  hundred  people.  That  was, 
indeed,  a  cheering  and  comforting  sight,  at  least  to  the  man  in  the 
pulpit  that  time. 

I  hope  the  reader  will  allow  me  to  make  the  following  ex- 
tracts from  an  evidently  official  source  regarding  this  busy  city  of 
the  future : 

"Sundsvall,  the  only  city  in  the  province  of  Medelpad,  within 
the  shrievalty  of  Vesternorrland,  is  situated  where  the  river 
Selanger  disembogues  into  the  town-frith  of  the  Bay  of  Bothnia, 
obtained  its  first  privileges  Aug.  23, 1621,  during  the  reign  of  King 
Gustavus  II.  Adolphus.     On  the  same  occasion  were  donated 

323 


three  chartered  farms,  Lund,  Kopstaden  and  Akersvik,  and  also 
1/6  chartered  farm  Taffte,  the  latter  "for  extension  and  grazing 
purposes."  The  town  was  at  first  built  near  where  the  tributary 
rivulet  Sidsjoback  disembogues  in  the  river  Selanger,  close  to 
the  royal  shotgun  factory,  but  was  removed  to  its  present  site 
about  1659  when  the  shotgun  factory,  referred  to,  was  transferred 
to  Soderhamn.  The  church  of  the  town  was  erst  situate  on  a 
site  nearly  east  of  Gronborg's  brewery,  later  on  in  the  place 
where  the  town-hall  now  stands  (until  about  the  middle  of  last 
century),  and  after  that  until  the  fire  in  1888,  immediately  north  of 
and  partly  on  the  same  place  where  the  rebuilt  church  (conse- 
crated Dec.  2,  1894)  now  stands.  Sundsvall  was,  1762-1778,  the 
residence  of  the  government  over  the  shrievalty  of  Vesternorr- 
land  and  obtained  staple  privileges  1812. 

Sundsvall  has  several  times  during  its  rise  been  looted,  and 
destroyed  by  fire,  namely  1720-1721,  when  the  Russians  burned 
and  pillaged  the  town;  then  Sept.  3d,  1803,  when  the  whole  dis- 
trict east  of  the  church  was  consumed,  and  Aug.  7th,  1877,  when 
the  greater  part  of  the  district  west  of  the  church,  and  the  latest 
time  June  25th,  1888,  when  almost  the  entire  town  between  the 
river  Selang  and  the  railroad  was  destroyed  in  a  conflagration. 
After  the  last  fire  referred  to  the  town,  however,  has  been  very 
rapidly  rebuilt,  so  that  during  the  seven  years  which  have  elapsed 
since  the  new  regulation  ordinance  was  decreed  (Jan.  31,  1890) 
until  Dec.  31,  1896,  altogether  208  lots  have  been  built  upon,  of 
which  148  with  brick  buildings  and  60  with  wooden  houses.  In 
conformation  to  this  ordinance  of  regulation  only  brick  houses 
are  allowed  to  be  built  in  the  district  east  of  the  church,  between 
the  Selang  river  and  the  railroad. 

The  entire  number  of  plots  built  upon  (that  is  inclusive  those 
north  of  the  Selang  river,  south  of  the  railroad  and  in  the  Stone- 
hammer  precinct,  which  the  fire  did  not  touch)  amounts  at  present 
to  370,  for  which  buildings,  together  with  those  temporary  erected 
on  plots  and  crofts,  the  assessment  of  taxes  amounts  to  about 
25,000,000  crovv^ns. 

The  following  public  edifices  have  been  erected  since  1890: 
Church,  4  chapels  (of  which  2  restored),  high  school  for  girls,  2 
common  public  schools,  gymnasium,  Sloyd-school,  theater,  town- 
hall,  custom-house  (restored),  2  custom  storage  houses,  vicarage, 
day-nursery,  savings-bank,  and  besides  i  large  brewery,  2  me- 
chanical works  and  16  storage-buildings.    A  spacious  bazaar  is 

2,24 


CHULA-LONGKORN,  KING  OF   SIAM. 


arranged  in  two  buildings,  witli  passage  from  the  market  square 
to  the  Sjo  street,  and  owned  by  Air.  O.  Hohnstrom. 

In  1878  a  sewerage  and  drainage  system  was  carried  through 
the  streets  and  plots  of  the  town,  and  a  conduit  of  water  from  the 
Sid  lake,  situated  2.5  km.  southwest  of  the  town,  and  67  meters 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Gas-works  were  erected  1867,  and 
electric  plant  1891. 

The  population  of  the  town:  In  1805,  1,471;  1825,  1,766; 
1845,  2,501;  1865,  5,327;  1885,  10,275;  1895,  13,911.  The  number 
of  inhabitants  have  thus  during  the  last  50  years  doubled  5^  times, 
and  since  the  commencement  of  the  century  nearly  ten-fold 
With  regard  to  the  population  Sundsvall  was  in  1805  the  27th, 
but  is  now  the  nth  in  sequence  of  all  the  towns  in  Sweden,  num- 
bering 13,930  inhabitants  Dec.  31,  1896. 

In  order  to  open  a  more  lively  communication  with  the  float- 
ing creeks  of  the  lumber  regions  of  Jamtland,  and  also  to  afford 
a  thoroughfare  to  Norway,  the  Sundsvall-Torpshammar  line  of 
railroad  was  constructed  1872-1875  (inaugurated  Aug.  9th,  1875). 

When  the  state  railroads  were  completed  July  22,  1882,  to 
Ange,  and  from  there  westward  to  Storlien  at  the  Norwegian 
frontier,  and  eastward  to  Torpshammar,  Sundsvall  by  means  of 
the  line  referred  to — Sundsvall-Torpshammar — became  con- 
nected with  not  only  Stockholm  and  the  country  southward,  but 
also  with  Norway.  The  narrow  gauge,  Sundsvall-Torpshammar 
line  (gauge  1.08  in.)  was  bought  by  the  state  in  1884,  and  was 
during  the  succeeding  years  rebuilt  to  the  same  gauge  (i  -435  i"-) 
similar  to  the  rest  of  the  state  railroads. 

The  harbor  of  Sundsvall  is  large  in  circumference  and  deep; 
its  eastern  limit,  about  3  km.  distant  from  the  town,  stretches 
between  Korsta-point  in  the  north,  past  the  Thiefholm's  eastern- 
most headland  to  the  eastern  kay  of  Kubikenburg  south.  From 
70  to  80  calls  are  daily  made  at  the  harbor  by  steamers  plying  in 
the  neighborhood  during  the  seafaring  season.  A  lively  com- 
munication is  maintained  with  Stockholm,  the  towns  on  the  coast 
and  Finland  and  almost  all  European  countries  and  with  Africa, 
by  means  of  the  many  merchantmen  and  steamers,  which  after 
importing  to  Sundsvall  and  its  mercantile  district  all  kinds  of 
colonial  goods,  cereals,  flour,  coal,  etc.,  mainly  export  lumber 
from  the  neighboring  sawmills,  also  iron  and  wood-pulp  from 
the  iron  foundries  and  factories  in  the  vicinity. 

The  revenues  for  Sundsvall  from  custom  dues,  lighthouse  and 

327 


beacon  charges  amounted  together  in  1830  to  about  29,000 
crowns,  and  in  1890  to  2,006,900  crowns,  whence  these  thus  have 
during  60  years  been  increased  69  fold.  The  past  year,  1896, 
these  revenues  aggregated  1,565,668  crowns.  With  regard  to  the 
custom  house  dues  Sundsvall  ranked  in  1896  the  4th  among  the 
cities  of  Sweden. 

The  entire  export  from  the  Sundsvall  district  comprised,  1896, 
112,558  stds.  planks  and  battens,  48,605  stds.  rough  boards, 
34,530  stds.  planed  boards,  141  stds.  staves,  17,111  cubic-fathoms 
split  wood,  12,279  loads  beams,  30,855  loads  spars,  14,426  holl 
beams,  12,160  stds.  pit-props,  472  stds.  tree-spires. 

From  the  whole  realm  there  were  exported  the  same  year: 
596,035  stds.  planks  and  battens,  330,451  stds.  rough  boards, 
91,117  stds.  planed  boards,  8,953  stds.  staves,  58,277  cubic- 
fathoms  split  wood,  208,647  loads  beams  and  spars,  28,831  stds. 
holl  beams,  226,215  stds.  pit-props,  11,102  stds.  tree  spires. 


328 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

With  Some  Newspaper  Men  of  Norrland. 

The  newspaper  men  are  interesting  people  the  world  over. 
Their  calling  in  life  is  a  very  important  one,  and  their  influence  is 
felt  everywhere.  The  true  tourist  is  always  glad  to  meet  them 
and  form  their  acquaintance,  because  of  their  fund  of  information, 
usually  superior  to  that  of  other  common  beings.  Their  own 
personality  is  frequently  an  important  piece  of  information  all  in 
itself. 

One  day  I  stood  in  the  editorial  rooms  of  "Hernosands 
Posten,"  the  daily  paper  of  the  little  city,  and  immediately  met  the 
editor-in-chief  and  his  first  assistant,  both  very  aflfable  and 
polished  gentlemen.  It  was  pleasant,  indeed,  to  converse  with 
them  about  conditions  in  Sweden  and  America  alike.  The  assist- 
ant editor  believed  me  too  conservative  on  the  suffrage  question. 
He  may  have  been  right,  but  I  hardly  think  so.  Universal,  un- 
limited suffrage  is  an  abomination  and  a  national  menace  and 
danger.  Anyone  conversant  with  the  political  conditions  of  New 
York  and  Chicago  will  agree  with  me  on  that  question  in  heart, 
even  if  the  mouth  utters  no  speech.  I  am  against  woman's 
suffrage  in  the  common  political  significance  of  the  word,  not  on 
grounds  of  judicial  rights,  but  as  a  matter  of  expediency,  and  yet 
it  is  simply  ridiculous,  in  my  opinion,  to  extend  suffrage  to  all 
men  simply  because  they  are  men.  True  humanity  does  not  con- 
sist in  being  a  masculine  member  of  the  family.  There  should  be 
some  way  of  denying  the  slums  and  illiterates  the  right  of  helping 
to  decide  the  destiny  of  this  nation. 

The  editor  is  quiet  for  a  few  minutes,  listening  to  a  telephone 
message  from  far-away  Stockholm  and  making  notes  as  he  listens. 
"Bad  news,"  says  he,  "a.  terrible  railroad  accident  in  Denmark. 

329 


About  forty  people  killed.  A  big  fire  in  Stockholm.  The  Ger- 
man Emperor  has  had  bad  luck  on  his  ship." 

It  made  me  envious  and  provoked  to  think  that  little  Sweden 
had  such  an  excellent  telephone  system,  such  splendid  and  con- 
venient instruments,  such  low  rates,  yes,  so  superior  to  our  own, 
proud  America. 

My  immediate  reason  for  the  visit  was  my  wish  to  read  some 
Swedish  papers  from  America,  but  I  was  disappointed.  They  had 
none. 

The  visit  became  an  interview.  The  kind  reader  will  pardon 
me  for  introducing  it  as  a  sample  of  the  polite  reportorial  style  of 
Sweden.     The  paper  said: 

OUR  BRETHREN  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

A  few  days  before  the  last  ministerial  meeting,  while  in  a 
company,  we  heard  that  Dr.  Carl  Swensson,  president  of  Bethany 
College,  would  take  part  in  the  coming  meeting.  We  received 
the  news  with  glad  surprise  and  were  reminded  of  his  visit  here  in 
1890,  when  he  won  the  love  of  all  with  whom  he  came  in  contact. 

Dr.  Swensson  came,  was  heartily  received,  strengthened  the 
bonds  of  friendship  which  he  had  made  during  his  last  visit,  and 
found  new  friends.  He  remained  here  a  few  days  as  the  guest  of 
Bishop  Johansson,  to  whom  he  is  related. 

We  have  even  had  the  privilege  of  conversing  with  this  man, 
who  by  his  untiring  energetic  work  has  made  for  himself  an 
honored  and  respected  name  in  the  great  land  on  the  other  side 
of  the  ocean — a  work  that  does  credit  to  the  name  of  Sweden  and 
our  countrymen  in  America. 

It  will  surely  be  interesting  for  our  readers  to  share  the  brief 
outline  given  below,  of  Dr.  Swensson's  life,  which  is  a  life  full  of 
mental  and  spiritual  work: 

He  was  born  in  Pennsylvania,  of  Swedish  parents,  was  edu- 
cated in  the  United  States,  took  the  degree  of  A.  B.  in  ^'jy,  was 
ordained  as  pastor  in  '79,  received  the  degree  of  A.  M.  in  '89  and 
was  made  doctor  of  philosophy  at  the  jubilee  at  Upsala  in  '93. 

He  is  the  founder  and  president  of  Bethany  College,  Linds- 
borg,  Kansas,  and  since  1879  has  been  pastor  of  the  Swedish 
Evangelical  Lutheran  Bethany  church  at  Lindsborg,  the  largest 
Swedish  Lutheran  congregation  west  of  the  Mississippi. 

From  1889-90  he  was  a  member  of  the  state  legislature,  in  '96 

330 


a  delegate  to  the  national  Republican  convention,  and  also  rep- 
resented Kansas  as  a  member  of  the  committee  on  resolutions. 
Nevertheless  he  has  persistently  refused  to  become  a  candidate 
for  congress  and  the  American  ministry  at  Stockholm. 

In  1885  he  was  chosen  secretary  of  the  General  Council  of  the 
Evangelical  Lutheran  Church  of  North  America,  of  which  body 
he  served  as  president  in  '93  and  '94,  and  has  the  distinction  of 
being  the  only  young  man  and  the  only  Swede  that  has  been 
elected  to  this  office.  He  is  the  author  of  several  books,  and  for 
twenty  years  has  written  for  both  Swedish  and  English  papers 
and  magazines  in  America,  and  for  years  has  been  in  great  de- 
mand as  a  speaker  and  lecturer.  He  visited  Sweden  for  the  first 
time  in  1890. 

We  were  much  pleased  when  Dr.  Swensson  assured  us  that 
our  Swedish-Americans  had  become  more  and  more  patriotic 
during  the  last  15  years.  The  Swedish-American  press  has  in  this 
respect  done  very  excellent  work.  With  a  very  patriotic  spirit  it 
has,  with  only  one  exception  worth  mentioning,  striven  to  make 
the  Swedes  feel  that  they  are  Swedes  even  though  they  dwell  in 
America.  It  was  with  real  joy  that  Dr.  Swensson,  during  his 
present  visit  noticed  how  much  our  country,  especially  the  capital, 
had  advanced  during  the  years  that  had  passed  since  his  visit  in 
1890.  The  fact  that  Copenhagen,  to  all  appearances,  had  not 
advanced,  he  said,  made  the  progress  of  the  Swedish  capital  seem 
more  marked. 

Dr.  Swensson  regards  the  Exposition  at  Stockholm  as  being 
very  successful.  Our  countrymen  in  the  far  West  have  looked 
forward  to  it  with  great  interest,  and  Dr.  Swensson  was  much 
surprised  to  find  so  many  Swedish-Americans  in  Stockholm.  It 
was  as  if  one  could  imagine  himself  transported  to  a  street  in 
Chicago  or  some  other  of  the  headquarters  of  the  Swedish-Ameri- 
cans. 

Dr.  Swensson  regretted  that  the  United  States  were  not  repre- 
sented by  Hon.  W.  W.  Thomas  at  this  Exposition,  where  his 
friendship  for  Sweden  and  her  sons  both  at  home  and  in  America 
would  have  been  so  fitting.  Leading  Swedish-Americans  and 
other  prominent  men  have  requested  President  jMcKinley  to 
make  ]\Ir.  Thomas  the  minister  of  the  great  republic  again,  and 
he  has  promised  to  do  so. 

The  king's  jubilee  will  be  celebrated  by  our  countrymen  in 
America  with  great  solemnity. 

33^ 


Dr.  Sward,  president  of  the  Augustana  Synod,  has  come  to 
Sweden  in  order  to  personally  bring  to  the  king  the  well-wishes 
of  the  Swedish  Lutheran  church  and  Augustana  College  in 
America. 

Bethany  College,  next  to  the  largest  Swedish-American 
school  in  the  United  States,  will  also  through  chosen  representa- 
tives— Rev.  J.  Seleen  and  Dr.  J.  E.  Floren — congratulate  the  king 
and  express  their  well  wishing  upon  the  day  of  his  jubilee. 

The  Swedish-American  singers — among  whom  are  Mr.  Gustaf . 
Hallbom,  of  Pitei  or  Lulei,  who  possesses  a  very  good  tenor — 
have  been  very  much  impressed  by  the  hearty  manner  in  which 
they  were  received  in  their  mother  country.  The  kindness  of  the 
king  has  really  captivated  them  all. 

It  is  a  great  privilege,  greater  than  you  can  imagine,  to  live 
under  such  conditions  as  now  prevail  in  Sweden,  said  Dr. 
Swensson.  What  it  means  to  have  a  good  and  enlightened  gov- 
ernment that  does  not  change,  but  can  always  be  depended  upon, 
is  only  understood  when  you  have  seen  the  radical  changes  which 
take  place  in  the  United  States  every  fourth  year,  or  even  oftener, 
when  the  president  or  member  of  congress  are  elected. 

In  Sweden  they  try  to  extend  the  privilege  of  voting  to  all 
classes,  in  America  it  is  just  the  opposite,  for  there  the  better  and 
more  thoughtful  element  wish  to  limit  the  number  of  those  who 
have  the  right  to  vote.  They  are  much  grieved  over  the  present 
conditions.  It  must  certainly  be  wrong,  that  tramps  and 
scoundrels  who  do  no  honorable  work  shall  have  as  much  to  say 
as  the  best  citizen  in  deciding  the  afifairs  of  the  nation.  The 
limitation  spoken  of  is  based  upon  the  intelligence  not  the  prop- 
erty of  the  voter. 

The  Swedes  in  America  dwell  in  different  parts  of  the  land, 
and  often  the  distance  between  colonies  is  very  great.  A  large 
number  live  in  New  York,  while  others  have  settled  in  San  Fran- 
cisco, 3,000  miles  farther  west.  Look  at  the  map  of  America. 
Our  countrymen  live  in  Seattle,  Washington,  but  also  in  Halland, 
Florida;  they  are  found  in  Portland,  Maine,  and  thrive  in  El 
Campo,  Texas.  At  the  latter  place  they  have  proved  that  Swedes 
can  live  in  the  south  as  well  as  in  the  north.  Besides  what  is 
usually  raised  in  the  Middle  states,  here  are  also  seen  vast  fields 
of  cotton  on  the  fertile  prairies,  in  a  climate  that  knows  no  winter, 
where  the  cattle  graze  the  year  around  and  find  their  own  food 
without  being  cared  for  by  man.     Many  Swedes  will  settle  here 


in  the  near  future,  as  land  can  be  had  at  a  low  price,  and  every- 
thing is  done  to  aid  the  settlers. 

In  Illinois,  Iowa,  Minnesota,  Nebraska  and  Kansas,  where 
the  Swedes  live  by  hundreds  of  thousands,  the  land  is  dear;  for 
wherever  our  countrymen  settle  they  are  usually  progressive  and 
successful,  and  the  land  in  the  neighborhood  quickly  rises  in 
price. 

How  many  Swedes  are  there  in  America?  This  cannot  be 
said  exactly.  If  we  count  the  children  and  grandchildren  of  the 
Swedish  immigrants,  it  is  thought  that  the  number  will  approach 
2,000,000.  I  cannot  say  how  true  this  may  be.  In  Chicago,  for 
example,  there  are  100,000  Swedes,  in  St.  Paul  and  Minneapolis 
75,000,  in  Greater  New  York  there  is  said  to  be  fully  the  same 
number.  Twenty  thousand  dwell  in  the  neighborhood  of  Linds- 
borg,  a  part  of  what  was  formerly  called  the  American  desert. 
In  Minnesota  the  Swedes  and  Norwegians  are  so  numerous  that 
they  have  elected  a  Norwegian  governor,  and  afterwards  sent 
him  to  Washington  as  senator,  they  have  elected  one  Swede  to 
the  office  of  state  secretary,  etc.  Several  Scandinavians  have 
been  or  are  now  in  the  state  legislature  or  occupy  other  places  of 
trust  and  honor.  Senator  Mark  Hanna,  who  is  President  Mc- 
Kinley's  right  hand  man,  told  me  personally  that  he  regarded  the 
Swedes  as  the  best  immigrants  that  come  to  America. 

Is  the  Swedish  language  about  to  die  out  in  America?  No! 
More  Swedish  and  better  Swedish  is  spoken  now  in  America  than 
was  the  case  twenty-five  years  ago.  In  church  work  English 
must  be  used  more  and  more  in  several  communities  among  our 
Swedish  people,  as  well  as  in  business  transactions,  yet  the  Swed- 
ish language  flourishes  and  shows  no  signs  of  dying  out.  At 
Bethany  College,  Swedish  is  compulsory  for  those  who  are  born  of 
Swedish  parents, and  intend  to  graduate  from  the  college  course. 
A  Swedish  oratorical  contest  is  held  at  the  college  each  year. 
This  year  His  Majesty  the  King  of  Sweden  presented  the  winner 
Vs'ith  a  handsome  premium;  the  king  had  also  before  given  a 
beautiful  Swedish  flag  with  which  to  decorate  the  auditorium. 

On  the  1 8th  of  September  a  great  Swedish  festival  will  be  held 
at  the  college,  in  honor  of  the  king's  jubilee. 

Last  winter  we  began  to  make  preparations  for  next  year,  to 
celebrate  the  300th  anniversary  of  the  battle  of  Stangebro  which 
we  consider  of  great  importance  in  the  history  of  the  world. 

You  ask  about  Norrland.      It  is  charming  as  usual.      The 

0^3 


more  we  see  of  it,  the  gladder  and  more  captivated  we  become. 
If  the  tourist  knew  what  could  be  seen  here,  your  beautiful  coun- 
try would  be  crowded  with  travelers  from  all  lands.  With 
emotion  I  say :    Happy  Sweden,  thrice  happy  Norrland. 


334 


GENERAL  TOLL. 


1.      THE   PUBLIC   HIGH  SCHOOL   FOR   BOYS,  IX   SUNDSVALI 

2.      DITTO   FOR   GIRLS,  SIDE  VIEW   AND   PRAYER  MEETING    H^i  L 

3.      DITTO.    FRONT  ELEVATION. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

Sabra  and  Hernosand,  and  Interview  with  General  Toll. 

At  Alandsbro,  we  were  met  by  Rev.  Dean  Bill  with  his  ele- 
gant carriage.  At  a  quick  pace  and  during  an  animated  conversa- 
tion, we  drove  towards  the  manse  at  Sabra,  where  at  one  time 
lived  the  great  poet.  Bishop  Franzen.  On  our  arrival  we  were 
received  in  the  most  cordial  manner  by  the  amiable  wife  of  the 
Dean,  his  charming  full-grown  daughter,  and  a  son,  who  since 
that  time  has  graduated,  and  by  several  younger  members  of  the 
family,  besides  by  the  family  of  the  Bishop  of  Hernosand  and 
other  invited  friends. 

Swedish  friends  are  friends  in  good  earnest,  and  Swedish  hos- 
pitality is  the  ripe-grown  fruit  of  the  vital  tree  of  friendship;  as 
a  truthful  proof  of  this  the  happy  home  of  Sabra  is  a  living,  recent 
illustration. 

The  tables  were  spread  on  the  lawn  in  front  of  the  house,  in 
the  beautiful  evening.  All  were  in  high  spirits  and  appeared 
very  happy,  and  such  a  genial  mood  is  generally  contagious,  just 
as  the  opposite  obtains.  A  happy,  genial  person  is  a  veritable 
God's  blessing  in  a  family,  a  congregation,  or  a  community.  A 
sour-tempered  and  discontented  one,  on  the  contrary,  is  like  a 
frosty  night  in  August. 

Swedish  hospitality!  who  can  sound  its  praise  enough?  After 
such  a  splendid  dinner  on  the  lawn  we  thought,  of  course,  that 
the  culinary  entertainment  was  at  an  end.  Not  it.  No  one  was 
allowed  to  depart  before  supper  had  been  partaken  of  at  about 
half  past  ten.  Thanks,  honored  friends  in  Sabr^,  for  your  great, 
undeserved  friendliness  towards  the  "Americans;"  thanks  for 
your  proofs  of  genuine  Swedish  hospitality.  We  will  never, 
never  forget  our  visit  to  Sabra. 

Close  by  was  the  Franzen  knoll,  where  the  poet-bishop    was 


wont  to  sit,  or  stroll  about.  Also  he  passed  through  the  circular 
process  of  human  development.  Also  he  learned  to  perceive  that 
dreams  and  ideals  not  always,  nay,  only  seldom,  become  realized. 
But  just  consider  how  quickly  time  passes.  This  very  summer 
it  is  already  fifty  years  since  the  psalmist  laid  down  his  bishop- 
crosier,  and  his  weary  head. 

Now  we  are  once  more  in  Hernosand,  our  real  home 
in  old  Sweden.  The  place  is  very  old,  referred  to  al- 
ready towards  the  end  of  1300;  the  city  was  founded  in 
1584,  and  is  most  picturesquely  situated.  The  cathedral,  and 
other  public  buildings  are  all  splendid,  and  many  of  them  have 
beautiful  sites.  The  city  has  a  see,  and  is  literally  crowded  with 
all  kinds  of  "institutions."  Hernosand  is  the  first  European  city 
which  acquired  complete  electrical  lighting.  Let  me  mention 
some  of  the  "institutions:"  the  cathedral,  the  bishop's  mansion, 
the  governor's  residence,  town-hall,  the  high-school,  the  Royal 
Bank  of  Sweden,  the  hypothec-union,  the  female  college,  the 
school  of  navigation,  the  school-teachers'  seminary,  the  deaf  and 
dumb  college,  the  hospital,  the  county-jail,  etc. 

In  the  cemetery  are  buried  the  two  bishops,  Franzen  and 
Landgren, — "the  gentle  and  the  powerful." 

In  our  "Swedish  home"  we  were  "like  one  of  the  family," 
and  were  exceedingly  comfortable.  The  bishop's  new  residence 
is  large  and  roomy,  but  the  building  committee  had  been  some- 
what niggard  and  old-fashioned  as  regards  the  interior.  That 
at  least  was  my  opinion.  Ineffable  is  the  memory  of  those  happy 
days  spent  among  our  relatives  and  friends  up  in  Norrland.  A 
thousand  thanks! 

Bishop  Johansson  and  his  family  enlisten  the  sympathy  of  all 
from  the  first  moment  of  their  acquaintanceship.  They  are  all 
amiable,  serious-minded  and  Christian.  The  bishop  himself  is 
very  manly,  and  seems  to  be  exceedingly  well  beloved  in  his 
bishopric,  of  which  fact  the  clergy  gave  renewed  evidence  when 
lately  he  completed  his  6oth  year.  His  lady  is  admirable,  both 
as  wife  and  mother,  and  presiding  at  social  functions.  An 
intellectually  gifted,  well-behaved  family  of  children  gladden  the 
home-life  and  old  age  of  their  honored  parents. 

During  one  of  our  daily  walks  I  met  Lawyer  Carlgren,  the 
appointed  interim  judge,  and  with  whom  I  had  made  acquam- 
tance  seven  years  ago.  He  had  now  obtained  a  lucrative  office 
at  the  Cathedral  consistory.   We  talked  about  one  thing  and  an- 

340 


other  anent  the  judicature  of  Sweden,  which  interested  me  much. 
Maybe,  my  readers  would  also  like  to  obtain  some  information 
regarding 

The  Judicature  of  Sweden. 

The  judiciary  power  is  exercised  by  the  courts,  which  must 
pronounce  sentence  according  to  law  and  statutes.  No  judge, 
whether  high  or  low,  can  be  removed  without  judiciary  investiga- 
tion and  judgment. 

The  diet's  influence  on  the  judicature  is  exercised  by  the 
solicitor-general. 

The  code  of  year  1734  is  still  the  common  civil  law  of  Sweden. 

The  lower  courts  ("first  instances")  are  in  the  country,  the 
district  courts,  and  in  the  cities  the  civil  courts  of  justice.  In 
the  district  courts  the  district  judge  is  president,  appointed  by 
the  King,  with,  as  a  rule,  12  jurates  as  judges  latteral,  elected  by 
the  community.  There  must  at  least  be  7  jurates  present  that 
the  court  shall  have  power  to  act.  If  all  of  the  jurates  are  of  a 
different  opinion  to  that  of  the  district  judge,  the  judgment  of  the 
jurates  carries  the  point.  Senior  jurate  is  he  called  who  has 
served  the  greatest  number  of  years  in  the  district  court. 

In  1895  there  existed  in  the  realm  117  court-circuits,  of  which 
some  contained  several  so-called  "hundreds"  or  districts.  There 
were  ^yj.  There  is  a  judge  for  each  district,  but  jurate  court  for 
every  rural  division. 

In  civil  courts  of  justice  the  mayor  is  president,  with  al- 
dermen as  jurates  latteral.  In  every  city  there  is  a  civil  court 
of  justice.  In  Stockholm  the  mayor  and  the  aldermen  (13  in 
number)  are  appointed  by  the  King,  and  in  other  cities  only  the 
mayor,  from  out  of  three  that  the  city  has  nominated.  In  provin- 
cial cities  the  aldermen  are  elected  by  the  members  of  the  town 
council,  or  by  common  court  of  justice.  The  aldermen  in  the 
larger  cities  must  have  graduated  in  law.  These  are  called 
learned  aldermen.  In  minor  towns  a  few,  or  all,  may  be  unlet- 
tered aldermen,  by  which  is  meant,  that,  like  the  jurates,  they 
are  not  required  to  have  graduated  at  law.  In  the  smaller  cities 
there  are  generally  three,  but  sometimes  two  or  four  aldermen; 
in  larger  cities  there  are  several  aldermen,  when  the  court  of 
justice  is  subdivided.     Gothenburg  has  two  mayors. 

Regarded  as  a  trustee  in  authority,  i.  e.,  city  government,  the 
court  of  justice  is  called  magistracy. 


The  courts  of  appeal  ("second  instance")  receive  and  decide 
those  cases  in  which  the  Htigants  appeal  to  them  or  lodge  com- 
plaint against  the  lower  courts. 

The  courts  of  appeal  or  chancery  are  three,  that  of  "Svea 
hofratt,  "Gota  hofriitt,"  and  that  of  the  provinces  of  Scane  and 
Blekinge.  They  consist  each  of  a  president,  and  a  number  of 
justices  or  lords  of  chancery  and  assessors  or  benchers.  "Svea 
hofratt"  has  12  judges  and  16  assessors,  "Gota  hofratt"  10  judges 
and  15  assessors,  the  Scane  hofratt,  4  judges  and  6  assessors. 

The  members  of  the  courts  of  appeal  are  appointed  by  the 
King. 

The  supreme  court  ("highest  or  last  instance")  judges  in  the 
last  instance  those  cases  that  are  remitted  to  it.  This  court  pro- 
nounces the  judgment  of  the  King,  and  renders  his  decision  in 
his  name,  although  the  King  does  not  possess  more  than  two 
votes  in  those  cases  in  which  he  cares  to  interfere.  The  King's 
power  is  consequently  here  much  less  than  in  the  cabinet, 
where  he  has  the  right  of  decision.  In  the  court  of  appeal  his 
votes  can  easily  be  over-ruled. 

The  supreme  court  consists  at  present  of  16  lord  justices,  ap- 
pointed by  the  King,  and  who  officiate  in  two  sections. 

The  cases  are  prepared  for  the  supreme  court  by  the  lower 
office  of  judiciary  revision,  which  consists  of  11  clerks  in  the 
court  of  chancery,  and  1 1  recording  secretaries. 

For  negligence  in  office  by  persons  in  military  service,  there 
are  in  the  first  instance  court  martials  (consisting  each  of  4  mil- 
itary oflficers  and  one  auditor);  in  the  second  instance  appeal 
court-martial  (consisting  of  4  military  officers  and  i  judge  of 
the  appeal-court-martial)  and  in  the  last  instance  the  supreme 
court.  For  negligence  in  office  by  clergymen  there  exist  three 
instances:  consistory,  court  of  appeal,  and  supreme  court,  in 
certain  cases  only  consistory  and  supreme  court. 

The  supreme  court  is  the  counsellor  to  the  Cabinet  and  the 
Diet  in  questions  relative  to  judicature.  In  cases  of  royal  pardon 
the  supreme  court  has  to  give  its  opinion,  before  the  question  is 
decided  by  the  King  in  the  Cabinet  counsel. 

The  members  of  the  supreme  court  can  be  impeached  by 
the  Diet — which  appoint  a  court  of  the  realm. 

The  attorney-general  is  privileged,  and  the  solicitor-general 
enjoined  in  such  cases  to  prosecute,  but  no  one  else.  The  court 
of  the  realm  is  in  this  instance  the  same  as  at  impeachment  of 

342 


the  Cabinet  ministers,  except  that  instead  of  the  4  lord-justices, 
the  4  senior  Cabinet  ministers  then  take  their  places. 

The  attorney-general  is  the  chief  prosecutor  in  cases  which 
concern  the  public  safety,  or  the  rights  of  the  crown;  it  is 
his  duty  to  watch  for  none  user  by  judges  and  civil  service  of- 
ficials. He  must  besides  see  that  the  liberty  of  the  press  is  not 
abused,  and  institute  prosecution  when  necessary.  Under  him  sit 
city  and  county  officials,  whom  he  has  to  appoint  or  dismiss, 
except  in  Stockholm. 

The  solicitor-general  is  the  prosecutor  for  the  Diet. 

That  things  are  more  justly  managed  in  Sweden  with  respect 
to  judicial  investigation  and  sentence  than  what  many  a  time 
happens  here  in  America,  is  because  both  high  and  low  judges 
are  more  securely  seated  on  their  benches  and  have  direct  inter- 
course with  the  witnesses,  and  because  the  attorneys  have  not  the 
same  privileges  and  liberty  as  with  us.  Jury  does  not  exist  excejit 
in  libel  cases  of  the  press,  and  then  consists  of  nine  persons.  To 
convict  it  requires  at  least  six  of  the  nine  votes.  The  jury  is 
chosen  thus:  each  party  and  the  court  elect  each  three  mem- 
bers. The  jurymen  take  their  oath  not  only  to  decide  the  case 
according  to  their  best  judgment,  but  also,  not  to  divulge  what  is 
said  during  their  consultation  and  who  votes  yea  or  nay.  In- 
junctions regarding  pleadings  before  the  court  and  cross-examina- 
tions are  explicit  and  prudent,  which  is  to  be  expected.  Con- 
testants, or  their  attorneys  have  a  right  to  interrogate  the  wit- 
nesses, but  only  through  the  court.  Witnesses  are  not  allowed 
to  listen  to  one  another,  but  are  heard  privately  by  the  judge, 
who  takes  notes  of  the  case,  reads  it  aloud,  when  it  is  recorded 
by  the  clerk. 

Our  American  cross-examination,  and  our  present  jury  sys- 
tem are  very  antiquated,  and  frequently  particularly  unjust.  Our 
attorneys  enjoy  far  too  great  a  liberty  in  tormenting  a  witness, 
and  the  demands  on  an  acceptable  juryman's  ignorance  of  the 
case  are  reall>*  ridiculous,  in  the  opinion  of  many.  These  de- 
mands truly  do  not  belong  to  the  age  of  daily  newspapers,  tele- 
graphs and  telephones.  They  are  simply  antiquated.  If  the 
judge  himself  could  interrogate  the  witnes?,  if  for  a  juryman 
could  be  chosen  any  honest,  intelligent,  and  conscientious  citizen 
whatever,  who  was  not  related  to  any  of  the  contestants,  in 
which  opposite  case  he  would  be  rejected  by  law,  if  two-thirds 
of  the  jurymen  could  render  decision,  then  the  American  judica- 

343 


ture  would  thereby  be  considerably  improved  and  simplified,  it 
seems  to  me. 

I  was  in  Hernosand  on  the  third  Rogation  Sunday  that 
is  yearly  especially  dedicated  to  penitence  and  supplication.  That 
is  also  the  official  mission  day  of  the  Swedish  Church.  In  con- 
sequence the  archbishop  issued  the  following  circular: 

Circular  of  the  Swedish  Church  Mission-Board. 

The  Swedish  church  can  also  this  year  celebrate  its  festival 
with  praise  and  thanksgiving.  God  has  plainly  allowed  the  love 
of  missions  to  increase  in  our  fatherland,  and  over  the  laborers 
in  the  two  mission-fields  in  Africa  and  India.  He  has  stretched 
His  blessing  and  protecting  hand,  while  awful  calamities  have 
visited  several  parts  of  the  world,  even  those  that  adjoin  our 
mission-fields,  God  has  vouchsafed  hitherto  either  entirely  to 
avert  these  visitations  from  our  fields  of  labor,  or,  at  least,  not 
permitted  them  to  strike  us  as  hard  as  we  might  have  expected. 

In  the  South  African  mission-field  among  the  Zulu  KafTers  the 
work  is  continued  at  the  seven  old  stations:  Oscarsberg,  Amoibie, 
Appelbosch,  Ifaye,  Dundee  Coalfields  and  Dundee  proper  in 
Natal,  and  Ekutuleni  i  Zulu-land,  to  which  recently  has  been 
added  an  eighth  station,  Umwoti  Slopes  in  Natal,  north  of  Appel- 
bosch. Besides,  there  exists  several  out-post  stations  or  preach- 
ing-places. The  devastations  which  last  year  were  caused  by 
locusts-swarms,  have  in  several  places  brought  on  famine  and 
hard  times,  so  that  the  mission-board  has  been  compelled  to 
grant  quite  considerable  sums  as  extra  allowance,  for  the  main- 
tenance of  the  children's  homes.  Our  mission  has  furthermore 
in  this  field  lost  one  of  its  female  missionaries,  in  that  Miss  Ester 
Goes  died  in  August  last  year.  The  board,  however,  has  had 
the  infinite  joy  in  sending  out  three  new  missionaries,  pastors 
I.  E.  Norenius,  K.  Hallendorff  and  R.  Kempe,  of  whom,  how- 
ever, the  last-named  is  still  in  England  for  the  sake  of  linguistic 
studies.  Besides,  a  teacher,  Miss  Ella  Berg,  was  sent  out  at  the 
same  time  as  the  betrothed  lady  of  missionary,  Liljestrand,  added 
to  whom  still  another  teacher.  Miss  Ingrid  Jonsson,  this  sum- 
mer will  leave  for  the  same  mission-field.  Missionary  Ljung- 
qvist  and  the  honorable  Miss  Posse  have  obtained  a  year  of 
leave  in  order  to  visit  their  fatherland. 

Although  the  Zulu-people  are  regarded  as  amongst  those 
heathens  who  are  the  least  receptible  of  Christianity  the  small 

344 


Christian  congregation  there  has  even  during  the  last  year  in- 
creased. At  tlie  end  of  1896  there  were  in  the  Zuki-mission  of 
our  church  five  white  missionaries,  five  white  female  teachers, 
eighteen  native  assistants,  461  members  of  the  congregation 
(against  365  at  the  end  of  1895)  247  entitled  to  be  communicants, 
231  School-children,  106  children  in  the  children's  home,  and 
97  catechumens. 

In  the  South  Indian  mission-field,  where  we  labor  in  union 
with  the  German  Leipzig-mission  among  the  Tamils,  the  work 
is  still  continued  in  the  Mandura  district  by  Missionary  Blom- 
strand,  and  in  the  Koimbatur  district  by  Missionary  Bexell,  while 
the  Irod  district,  which  before  was  united  with  the  Koimbatur 
district,  now  has  obtained  its  own  missionary  in  Pastor  Johans- 
son. Pastor  Sandegren  is  head-master  of  the  central  school  in 
Schiiili,  which  is  common  for  the  entire  Swedish-German  mis- 
sion. Pastor  Horberg,  in  consequence  of  poor  health,  is  still 
exempt  from  duty.  There  is  thus  four  Swedish  missionaries  that 
labor  in  this  field.  At  the  end  of  1896  there  were  in  the  afore- 
said districts  worked  by  the  Swedish  missionaries  4  native 
pastors,  55  native  teachers  and  catechisers,  20  places  of  wor- 
ship, 1,715  members  of  congregations  (against  1,587  at  the  end 
of  1895)  838  school-children,  and  81  children  at  the  children's 
home.  The  sailor-mission  which  had  begun  in  Bordeaux  has 
continued  in  the  same  manner  as  before,  and  our  sailor-pastor 
there  has  been  able  to  relate  not  only  about  difficulties,  but  also 
about  much  encouragement  in  this  particularly  important  work. 

The  income  of  the  mission  during  the  year  amounted  to 
60,143  kronor  and  44  ore,  of  which  the  sailor-mission  7,230 
kronor  and  73  ore.  The  expenses  during  the  same  time  were 
77,859  kronor  30  ore,  of  which  4,765  kronor  18  ore  went  to  the 
sialor-mission. 

The  board  has  seen  with  heart-felt  joy  that  the  Mission  news- 
paper still  continues  to  increase  in  circulation.  It  is  now  issued 
in  nearly  6,000  copies.  To  those  missionary  pamphlets  and 
pictures  already  before  published  several  more  have  been  added, 
and  even  this  small  beginning  of  a  missionary  literature  has  grate- 
fully been  received  in  many  places. 

We  are  thus  prompted  to  thank  God  for  His  blessing  and  pro- 
tection, and  also  to  supplicate  further  for  that  power  which  His 
grace  bestows  on  us  and  our  mission.  Thus  we  ought  to  thank 
and  pray  particularly  on  the  third  Ember  Sunday  that  is  yearly 

345 


dedicated  to  penitence  and  supplication,  the  mission-day  of  our 
church.     Stockhohn,  May,  1897. 

On  behalf  of  the  Board  of  the  Swedish  Church-Mission. 

A.  H.  Sundberg, 
Hj.  Danell. 

The  Evangelical  Fatherland  Institution  and  the  Mission 
Union  have  also  flourishing  missions  among  the  heathens. 

The  Swedes  were  the  first  Protestants  who  possessed  a  for- 
eign mission.  They  were  also  the  first  who  in  this  country  lab- 
ored for  the  conversion  of  the  Indians  to  Christianity. 

We  found  that  there  were  good  times  in  Norrland.  Work- 
ingmen's  wages  and  conditions  in  general  have  not  been  as  good 
since  the  '70's.  Money  loaned,  if  one  desires  good  security  and 
a  long  time,  only  fetches  two  per  cent  interest.  The  whole  of 
Sweden  feels  the  blessing  of  its  protective  tarifif.  Not  to  be 
wondered  at,  either,  as  its  usefulness  is  as  clear  as  daylight  to 
anyone  who  calmly  views  the  question  from  every  side. 

The  diocese  of  Hernosand  is  far  too  large.  It  ought  to  have 
been  divided  long  ago,  and  that  would  finally  have  happened 
last  year  if  a  stubborn  layman  in  the  Diet  had  not  opposed  it. 
The  bill  is  sure  to  be  returned  next  year  again.  That  more  than 
half  of  the  area  of  Sweden  should  belong  to  one  bishopric,  is 
simply  unjust. 

Next  year  there  will  be  a  church  convocation.  The  most 
important  questions  then  will  probably  be  the  discussion  of  the 
new  translation  of  the  Old  Testament  and  the  proposal  for  a 
new  hymn-book,  and  a  reorganization  of  the  chapter,  so  that 
the  clergy  and  male  teachers  of  the  high-schools  should  nom- 
inate and  the  King  appoint  the  members  of  the  chapter,  and  the 
official  work  be  divided  into  Episcopal  and  purely  church  busi- 
ness, by  which  the  manifold  office-work  could  much  easier  be 
done.  The  second  chamber  of  the  Diet  has  already  voted  against 
such  a  proposal.  They  very  likely  want  to  have  a  chapter  mainly 
elected  by  and  consisting  of  laymen.  An  American  would  quite 
boldly  say  about  such  ideas  and  such  talk:  "All  nonsense! 
Sweden,  w'hich  is  so  sensible,  and  sufficiently  just  to  believe 
in  the  knowledge  of  specialists,  should  appoint  her  chapters  with- 
out reference  to  such!  No,  surely  that  will  never  happen,  even 
if  the  second  chamber  of  Sweden  frequently  consists  of  a  con- 
glomeration, the  definition  of  which  has  never  yet  been  fully 
pronounced  and  plainly  written  down." 

346 


One  day  I  was  present  at  a  funeral  in  the  Cathedral.  The 
notary  to  the  consistory,  the  Rev.  Mr.  Nordstrom,  a  pious  and 
able  man,  who  recently  had  been  appointed  rector  of  a  church, 
had  received  his  last  call.  Those  invited  had  repaired  to  the 
house  of  mourning  already  at  12:30,  where  the  customary  re- 
freshments were  served,  which  we  Americans  thought  unneces- 
sar}-  and  too  old-fashioned.  \\'e  went  to  the  church  at  1 130. 
Black  covers  were  spread  over  the  altar  and  its  rails.  Large 
wreaths  of  flowers  were  displayed  on  these,  with  names  and 
mottoes  printed  on  yellow,  grey,  white  and  blue  ribbons.  The 
catafalque  was  low,  with  a  huge  wreath  of  oak-leaves  around,  and 
across  on  the  top  of  it.  Four  large  laurel-trees  were  placed  near 
the  altar-rails,  and  on  the  altar  itself  we  observed  several  palm- 
plants. 

Little  children  and  old  women  occupied  many  of  the  best 
places.     That  proved  to  me  that  such  funerals  were  rare. 

The  chiming  of  the  bells  souiided  in  the  usual  tempo,  so  that 
only  the  last  strokes  tolled.  The  procession  came  fifteen  min- 
utes too  late,  and  on  entering  the  church  was  received  with  organ 
music.  There  were  eight  clergymen  and  teachers  as  pall-bear- 
ers, who  kept  their  silk  hats  on  until  they  had  placed  the  coffin, 
which  was  large  and  had  eight  feet,  on  the  catafalque.  The  coun- 
cilmen  were  in  the  procession.  Here  one  beheld  old-fashioned 
wigs  and  faces  in  the  aged,  and  peculiar,  modern  features  in  the 
young.  But,  however,  let  me  speak  of  the  obsequies  of  my 
friend.  A  male  chorus  sang  hymn  451:  i.  The  bishop,  stand- 
ing outside  the  altar-rails,  held  a  short,  but  earnest  sermon,  with 
text  from  a  verse  in  Phil,  ist  chapter,  after  which  the  rite  of 
commitment  to  earth  immediately  took  place.  The  male  chorus 
now  sang  hymn  452:  2,  after  which  a  beautiful  liturgy  was  ren- 
dered. The  chorus  sang  Josephson's  "Requiem."  After  the 
benediction  hymn  471 :  4.  and  now  the  procession  began  to  move 
towards  the  church-yard.  The  ceremony  in  the  church  took  alto- 
gether only  45  minutes.  The  features  of  the  deceased  were  not 
shown,  a  custom  which  we  Americans  much  approved  of.  The 
hearse  was  peculiarly  old-fashioned  and  unlike  those  we  had  seen 
in  America.     The  driver  was  clad  in  livery. 

The  remains  of  the  beloved  man  were  gently  and  silently 
lowered  into  the  grave  decorated  with  greenery.  There  he  now 
rests  until  the  dav  of  resurrection.    Peace  be  unto  his  memory! 


349 


At  the  funeral  of  such  a  prominent  man  in  America  a  many 
times  larger  concourse  of  people  would  have  assembled,  but 
customs  are  so  very  different  in  different  countries. 

The  guests,  as  we  said,  assembled  in  the  house  of  mourning 
at  12:30.  The  refreshments  consisted  of  bouillon,  Rhine  wine, 
and  also  stronger  wines,  with  cream-pufifs  to  the  bouillon,  and 
confectionery  in  paper-bags  with  black  edges  of  mourning.  The 
mourners  were  seated  in  the  drawing-room  in  the  meantime. 
When  the  guests  entered  they  greeted  them  and  expressed  their 
condolence. 

Farewell  to  Hernosand!  But  this  time  I  feel  as  if  one  could 
return  again.  In  reality  our  globe  is  not  so  very  large,  and  a 
journey  to  Sweden  is  long  only  the  first  time. 

The  night  before  we  had  already  bidden  farewell  to  the  per- 
petual Curate  Chelander  and  Pastor  Enmark.  They  are  excellent 
clergymen.  The  first  one  I  met  already  seven  years  ago,  the  lat- 
ter the  first  time  only  this  summer. 

Look  now,  there  is  our  steamer.  The  hour  has  arrived.  We 
must  part.     Thanks!  "Auf  Wiedersehen!" 

Interview  with  General  Toll. 

On  board  we  met  the  amiable  and  handsome  General  Toll, 
who  already  before  had  made  such  a  good  impression  on  us. 
Today  the  general  was  attired  in  his  uniform,  and  looked  still 
more  imposing  than  on  the  Sunday,  when  he  was  dressed  as  a 
civilian. 

The  general  is  already  old.  Hewas  born  Jan.  19, 1831.  In  1843 
he  was  enrolled  as  sergeant  at  the  Royal  Life-guard  corps  of 
Hussars,  1845  he  become  a  cadet  at  the  military  academy,  1850 
sub-lieutenant,  i860  captain,  1878  major,  1880  lieutenant-colonel, 
1885  colonel,  1894  major-general  and  chief  of  the  6th  army  di- 
vision. 

The  general  possesses  a  happy  home  since  1861,  where  five 
children  are  the  joy  and  happiness  of  their  aged  parents. 

There  stands  the  aged  warrior  of  66  years,  erect  and  stalwart 
as  a  youth, — to  me  the  type  of  Sweden's  best  military  men,  such 
as  fear  God  and  are  loyal  to  their  King. 

We  talked  much  and  about  many  things.  As  usual,  the 
American  was  "inquisitive."  He  did  not  inquire  in  vain,  thanks 
to  the  complaisant  general. 

Everything  in  Sweden  is  in  a  state  of  improvement,  at  least 

350 


so  it  appears  to  the  visitor.  At  tlic  military  school  in  Hernosand 
there  are  156  men  or  pupils,  and  during  ten  months  only  seven 
have  been  punished,  and  that  for  very  small  offenses.  These 
pupils  attend  school  one  year  in  Hernosand,  then  one  year  at  the 
inland  fortress  and  training-school  of  Karlsborg,  after  which  they 
become  sergeants  and  subalterns.  I  saw  these  "war-students" 
in  and  outside  the  church,  and  they  were  evidently  uncommonly 
good  and  well-behaved.  Of  this  I  felt  glad,  because  in  my 
humble  opinion  a  military  man  has  no  right  to  be  a  greater  tough 
than  any  other  ordinary  being. 

The  chief  of  a  regiment  has  a  salary  of  9,000  kronor,  and  the 
general  has  11,000  kronor,  but  from  this  must  be  deducted  the 
expenses  of  maintaining  horses,  residences,  dues  to  secure  pen- 
sion, etc. 

An  officer  may  resign  at  65  years  of  age,  but  he  must  do  so 
at  68  years.  The  conditions  for  pension  are  better  than  for- 
merly. 

We  also  learned  that  a  grand  field  manoeuvre  was  to  take 
place  in  Dalecarlia  in  September,  when  the  5th  and  6th  army  divi- 
sions were  to  be  engaged.  If  I  recollect  rightly,  20,000  soldiers 
would  participate  in  these  exercises. 

In  the  regiments  of  Vesterbotten  and  Norrbotten,  the  con- 
scripts yearly  increase  with  from  50  to  100  young  men. 

The  general  spoke  in  laudatory  terms  of  the  clergy  of  Norr- 
land  in  general,  and  emphasized  particularly  the  great  importance 
of  the  work  of  maintaining  good  discipline  by  the  mihtary  chap- 
lains.    The  general  himself  regularly  attends  church. 

It  was  a  memorable  hour  for  us  Americans.  Now  the  general 
and  Captain  Wrangel  go  down  to  dinner.  They  disembarked  at 
Sundsvall.  The  general  was  to  show  the  King  the  new  estab- 
lishments being  constructed  in  Ostersund. 

Allow  me  now  to  talk  to  the  reader  a  few  minutes  about  the 
army  and  navy  of  Sweden. 

The  army  of  Sweden  consists  of  6  divisions,  which  together 
embrace:  25  infantry  regiments  of  two  batallions  each,  when 
only  the  cadre  is  taken  into  account,  else  as  a  rule  three  and 
four  independent  infantry-batallions, — 54  batallions  on  peace- 
footing,  79  in  time  of  war  together  with  216  companies  in  time 
of  peace,  316  in  time  of  war;  eight  cavalry  regiments,  of  which 
six  have  5  and  two  10  squadrons  each — 50  squadrons;  6  field 
artillery  regiments,  each  with  2  divisions  and  6  field-batteries  (to 

351 


one  of  the  regiments  is  added  a  third  division  of  2  horse  bat- 
teries)— 13  divisions — 36  field  and  2  horse  batteries;  2  fortress 
artillery  corpses  (i  corps  with  4  and  i  with  2  companies — 6  fort- 
ress artillery  corpses;  2  engineer  batallions  (i  batallion  with  5 
and  I  with  4  companies — 9  engineer  companies;  and  4  transport 
batallions  of  2  companies — 8  field  parks. 

The  troops  of  the  island  of  Gothland  are  not  included  in  the 
army  divisions,  but  contain  i  infantry  regiment  of  2  batallions — 
8  companies  and  i  artillery  corps  of  2  field-batteries  and  i  fortress 
artillery  company.  Besides  these  is  one  discipline  company 
(to  be  withdrawn)  and  i  fortress  artillery  corps  (at  Karlskrona) 
which  latter  belongs  to  the  fleet. 

The  army  divisions  comprise: 

1st  army  division: — Kronoberg's  regiment,  North  Scane  inf. 
reg.;  South  Scane  inf.  reg. ;  Smaland's  grenadier  corps.;  Hal- 
land's  batallion;  Blekinge  batallion;  Scane  hussar  reg.;  Scane 
dragoon  reg.;  the  Crown-Prince's  hussar  reg.;  Vende's  artillery 
reg.;  Vende's  transport  batallion. 

2d  army  division: — ist  grenadier  reg.;  2d  grenadier  reg.; 
Jonkoping's  reg.;  Kalmar  reg.;  Smaland's  hussar  reg.;  2d  Gota 
artillery  reg. 

3d  army  division: — Vastgota  reg.;  Skaraborg's  reg.;  Vast- 
gota-Dals'  reg.;  Bohuslan's  reg.;  Vermland's  reg.;  Vermland's 
ranger  corps;  Life-guard  hussars;  ist  Gota  artillery  reg.;  Karls- 
borg's  artillery  corps;  Gota  engineers  batallion;  Gota  transport 
batallion. 

4th  army  division: — Svea  Life-guards,  Gota  Life-guards; 
Life-guard  infantry;  Sodermanland's  reg.;  Life-guard  cavalry;  ist 
Svea  artillery  reg.;  Vaxholm's  artillery  corps;  Svea  engineer 
batallion;  Svea  transport  batallion. 

5th  army  division: — Upland's  reg.;  Dalecarlia  reg.;  Helsinge 
reg.;  Vatmanland's  reg.;  Life-guard  dragoon;  2d  Svea  artillery 
reg. 

6th  army  division: — Norrbotten's  reg.;  Vasterbotten's  reg.; 
Jamtland's  rangers;  Vasternorrland's  reg.;  Norrland's  dragoons; 
Norrland's  artillery  reg. ;  Norrland's  transport  batallion. 

Gothland  troops;  Gothland's  infantry  reg.;  Gothland's  ar- 
tillery corps. 

The  army  on  peace  footing  (i.  e.,  its  permanently  employed 
men)  comprises  1,953  officers,  295  doctors,  veterinary  surgeons 
and  superintendents;  36,358  subalterns  and  private  soldiers.     The 

352 


1st  call  of  conscripts  (from  ist  to  8th  classes)  amounts  to  about 
170,000  men;  2d  call  (from  9th  to  12th  classes)  to  about  95,000 
men. 

The  chief  commanders  of  the  army  divisions  constitute  the 
body  of  general  officers.  The  King  is  invested  with  the  supreme 
command  of  the  army  and  navy. 

The  Navy. 

The  navy  consists  of  the  flagship  "Drott,"  630  tons;  4  first 
class  iron-clads,  2,900-3,300  tons  respectively;  4  second  class; 
9  third  class,  10  gunboats  and  torpedo-cruisers  and  a  great  num- 
ber of  torpedo  boats,  manoeuvering  and  training  vessels,  etc. 

The  cadre  of  the  fleet  consists  of  7,000  men,  and  20,000  con- 
script marines. 

Next  to  the  King  in  command  of  the  navy  is  the  chief  of  the 
admiralty  or  marine  minister.  The  remainder  of  the  corps  of 
officers  are  three  flag-men  or  admirals,  six  commodores,  twenty- 
four  captains,  sixty-two  commanders,  etc. 

The  army  has  a  military  school  at  Karlsborg,  a  military  col- 
lege at  Stockholm,  an  artillery  and  engineer  high  school  at 
Marieberg,  schools  for  subalterns,  etc.,  and  the  navy  has  a  naval- 
war  school  in  Stockholm  and  10  schools  of  navigation. 

Corporals  and  lance-  sergeants  are  counted  with  the  rank  and 
file.  Sergeants  and  color-sergeants  are  subalterns.  The  officers 
consist  of  sub-lieutenants,  lieutenants,  captains,  majors,  lieu- 
tenant-colonels, colonels,  major-generals,  lieutenant-generals, 
generals,  field-marshal  (only  in  time  of  war). 

To  wind  up  with  a  brief  anecdote: 

The  King  said  to  General  Lagerberg:  'T  say,  Swen,  what 
had  I  better  do?  I  should  like  to  make  the  King  of  Portugal 
a  farewell-present,  but  I  don't  want  to  make  it  too  grand,  but 
something  that  I  might  easily  do  without." 

Lagerberg:     "Well,  then,  Your  Majesty,  give  him  Norway." 


353 


CHAPTER  XXL 

To  Ancient  Visby. 

"Visby  was  formerly  the  most  important  commercial  empori- 
um on  the  Baltic  Sea.  Now  its  temples  lie  in  ruins;  this  is  the 
will  of  God,  who  thereby  shows,  that  there  is  nothing  on  earth, 
which  can  be  depended  upon  with  certainty." 

Maria,  sister  of  Carl  V.,  Queen  of  the  Netherlands,  1535. 

"Visby  seems  to  represent  to  us  Rome  itself  in  model,  such 
large,  elegant  churches,  palled  by  time  and  changes,  crumbled 
into  ruins." 

Carl  Linnaeus.,  1741. 

"Visby  is  a  very  romantic  city." 

Oscar  II.,  1891. 

If  any  one  desires  a  bit  of  mediaevalism  in  the  closing  decades 
of  the  19th  century,  if  he  desires  a  Rome,  an  Athens,  a  Jerusalem, 
far-away  in  the  north,  if  he  desires  to  listen  to  the  warning  voice 
of  past  ages  in  memory's  sanctuaries,  let  him  journey  to  the  old, 
never-to-be-forgotten  Visby. 

All  this  has,  of  course,  been  read  about  before,  and  yet  it  is, 
nevertheless,  with  a  feeling  of  real  surprise  that  one,  from  the 
deck  of  a  Stockholm  steamer,  views  at  early  dawn  the  "pearl  of 
the  Baltic,"  where  she  yet  today  with  a  melancholy  grace  greets 
the  stranger  welcome  to  her  shores. 

At  once  a  crescent  and  a  parallelogram,  surrounded  by  a  wall 
of  masonry  even  in  its  age,  striking  and  powerful,  with  its  numer- 
ous turrets,  and  immediately  pointing  to  its  rich,  gloomy,  eloquent 
memory  of  ancient  greatness,  stands  the  "queen  of  Gothland" — 
a  piece  of  realistic  romance,  a  day-dream,  an  historic  epic  in  stone, 
all  at  once,  and  yet  one  feels,  "the  half  is  not  yet  told." 

Its  monumental,  well-conditioned  and  well-preserved  ruins,  on 

354 


whose  roofs  trees,  grass  and  herbs  quietly  flourish  and  grow,  and 
in  whose  walls  on  soft  carpets  of  grass  younger  generations  cele- 
brate present  festivals  with  represented  trains  of  monks  and  nuns 
through  the  passages,  whose  mysteries  the  sunlight  of  the  later 
times,  in  a  literal  meaning,  has  disclosed  by  shedding  its  friendly 
light  in  through  opened  loopholes  and  significant  gaps,  are  not 
only  melancholy  remembrances  of  what  has  been,  for  they  witness 
how  history  ultimately  brings  about  placability  and  reconciliation 
without  the  association  of  forgetfulness,  but  also  how  in  the  land 
of  the  north  a  unanimous  Protestant  popular  church  ably  cares 
for  itself  without  the  Catholic  national  churches  of  past  ages  in 
this  rich  emporium,  for  in  Sweden  since  1596  all  are  as  one  man 
and  all  have  one  God.  Luther  has  trampled  on  the  ruins  of 
Rome.  Its  one  sole  remaining  sanctuary  he  now  possesses  after 
centuries  of  almost  undisturbed  ownership,  but  the  destruction 
was  not  effected  by  him;  they  did  that  themselves.  The  guard- 
ians, that  witness  of  what  has  been,  still  remain,  but  that  which  is 
points  forward,  and  in  hopes  one,  in  this  extraordinarily  interest- 
ing Baltic  city,  gladdens  himself  with  thoughts  of  a  national 
museum  with  the  heavens  as  a  ceiling,  the  azure  deep  as  its 
antique,  eternally  changing  courtyard,  in  the  time  when  the 
prophet's  powerful,  penetrating  and  stirring  words  shall  have 
reached  their  fulfillment;  "the  old  has  vanished,  lo!  1  make  all 
things  anew." 

We  traveled  "with  Visby"  to  Visby,  and  the  journey  con- 
sumed but  eleven  and  a  half  hours.  Our  voyage  first  brought  us 
through  the  indescribably  beautiful  Malaren  to  Sodertelge. 
Malaren  and  Skargirden  strive  continually  for  precedence.  They 
are  both  rare  beauties.  He  is  not  to  be  envied  who  is  obliged  to 
choose  between  the  two.  The  one  last  seen  is  appreciated  the 
most,  and  since  it  is  but  a  question  of  simple  figurative  language, 
one  must  say  that  he  is  equally  fond  of  both  sisters. 

"  Skargirden,the  archipelago  of  Sweden.is  sombre  without  being 
gloomy,  stern  without  being  harsh,  trustworthy  without  being 
smooth,  indeed,  in  fancy  he  becomes  the  typical  young  man  of 
the  north,  and  the  image  immediately  is  changed — for  now 
Malaren  becomes  the  fair  young  woman  from  whose  eye  sparkles 
spring  and  summer  and  whose  glance  is  renewed  courage  and 
love  of  life,  is  a  greeting  from — yes,  itself  a  little  spark  of  the  in- 
expressible, unseen,  eternal  something  which  exhorts  the  longing 
soul  not  to  lose  courage,  but  instead  bravely  to  continue  the 

355 


struggle  until  the  victory  is  won  in  earnest.  There  stand  the 
two;  lovely  children  of  the  "Queen  of  Malaren,"  the  north  itself; 
manly,  strong  and  elastic,  but  rich  in  laughing  grace  nevertheless, 
man  and  woman,  strength  and  beauty,  united  through  the  will 
of  God  into  the  one;  that  which  here  as  elsewhere  is  called  love. 
"The  two  are  one."  In  the  land  of  our  forefathers  not  even  a 
prosaic  American  can  speak  of  "inanimate  nature."  All  lives, 
for  death  is  surely  the  opposite  of  existence.  Happy  Stockholm, 
who  has  both,  Malaren  and  Skargarden,  and  happy  Sweden  who 
has  its  Stockholm. 

The  little  steamer  has  already  carried  us  past  numerous  isles, 
islets  and  coves.  "The  King's  hat"  sits  on  its  iron  bar  far  up  on 
the  high  rocks  and  the  king's  leap  seems  just  as  impossible  as 
before.  Now  the  beautiful  town,  Sodertelge  is  at  hand,  where  the 
business-like  old  ladies  never  in  vain  offer  their  cracknels,  re- 
nowned in  many  lands.  We  also  traded  with  them.  The  crack- 
nels do  not  taste  one  whit  better  than  our  best  Swedish-American 
productions.  This,  however,  signifies  nothing,  for  they  are  good, 
have  attained  proper  renown  long  since,  and  when  I  compare 
them  with  our  best  Swedish-American  cracknels  they  have  re- 
ceived an  uncommonly  splendid  bill  of  discharge. 

The  canal  is  small.  It  is  feared  that  the  steamer  will  not  get 
through.  Unnecessary  anxiety!  All  this  has  been,  of  course, 
previously  ascertained.  All  goes  exceedingly  well.  Shortly  we 
are  again  in  another  "skargard."  Supper  is  served  on  deck  and 
tastes  excellent.  At  half  past  eleven  we  are  on  the  open  sea,  but 
ere  this  an  old  night-ofificer  came  and  seized  me  somewhat 
violently  by  the  ear  and  conducted  me  down  to  my  cabin,  where  I 
was, compelled  to  retire.  His  name  is  Jon  Blund,  an  old,  intel- 
ligent man,  who  wishes  us  all  well.  Nay,  not  always,  for  when  he 
becomes  a  church-ofBcer  it  is  somewhat  tiresome  even  if  what 
the  Westgothian  said  is  true:  "Our  dear  pastor  wishes  us  -so 
much  good,  that  he  constantly  and  continually  repeats  the  same 
thing  many,  many  times  on  Sundays." 

At  half-past  seven  in  the  morning  Bishop  Von  Scheele  and  his 
beloved  American  guest.  Pastor  Abrahamson,  stood  on  "Visby's" 
deck.  The  bishop's  welcome  was  especially  cordial.  In  a  com- 
fortable cab  we  were  conveyed  over  rattling  boulder  stones 
through  small,  winding  lanes  to  the  spacious,  pleasant,  and  old- 
fashioned  bishop's  residence,  the  chief  building  with  two  wings, 
surrounded  by  an  orchard  or  park.     Here  awaited  us  a  second 

356 


STOCKHOLM   STATUES:      1.      CARL   XIV   JOHAN.      2.      GUSTAF   IIL 
3,      BERZELIUS.      4.      AXEL   OXEXSTJERXA. 


STOCKHOLM:      1.      HASSELBACKEN    KKSTAT-KANT. 
2.      CENTRAL   RAILWAY   DEPOT.        3.      VIEW   OF   THE   ESPLANADE. 


equally  cordial  welcome  from  the  bishop's  wife,  a  most  noble  and 
amiable  Christian  woman. 

In  the  course  of  a  half  hour  we  were  all  seated  at  the  dining 
table,  in  all  six  persons,  of  whom  four  were  from  America.  Our 
host  and  hostess  were  kindness  itself  to  the  pilgrims  from  the  far 
west.  We  ascertained  the  program  of  the  day,  for  it  was  the 
day  of  the  yearly  Synod.  At  nine  o'clock  we  were  already  in  the 
cathedral,  participating  in  the  solemn  service. 


361 


CHAPTER  XXn, 

With  the  Bishop  and  Clergymen  of  Gothland. 

The  St.  Maria  Church,  or  cathedral,  is  the  only  one  which 
remains  of  the  former  rich,  Hanse-town's  sixteen  churches.  The 
remainder  are  more  or  less  crumbled  ruins.  The  cathedral  was 
dedicated  the  27th  of  July,  1225  by  the  bishop  of  Linkoping, 
Bengt,  to  whose  bishopric  the  island  Gothland,  then  and  up  to 
1527,  belonged.  It  was  "per  manus  Theutricorum  constructa" 
(^erected  by  German  hands),  as  is  stated  in  the  dedicatory  docu- 
ments. The  church  was  erected  originally  in  the  Romanesque 
style,  but  during  manifold  changes,  it  has  received  some  Gothic 
additions  and  with  respect  to  its  exterior  especially  even  some  of 
the  renaissance  and  roccoco  styles.  The  artist.  Prof.  Scholander, 
says  that  "it  is  worthy  of  being  called  Sweden's  most  important 
and  most  beautiful  architecture  from  the  mediaeval  times."  The 
church  has  in  all  five  aisles,  is  173  feet  long,  70  feet  wide  and  45 
feet  high.  On  the  south  is  a  beautiful  chapel,  ornamented  in 
Gothic  style. 

In  1 89 1  a  restoration  of  the  interior  was  begun,  on  account 
of  which  its  sanctuaries  now  appear  in  more  original  strength  and 
beauty.  Heating  apparatus  has  been  put  in.  A  new  organ  has 
been  built,  and  now  the  exterior  of  the  temple  will  receive  needed 
improvements,  for  which  a  sum  of  one  hundred  thousand  crowns 
has  already  been  appropriated. 

The  altar  consists  of  a  single  flat  rock,  six  and  a  half  feet  wide 
and  ten  and  a  half  feet  long,  of  grained  marble  from  Gothland. 
In  the  chancel  are  three  windows  of  costly,  colored  glass.  On 
the  altar  stood  four  candles  and  a  large  cross  with  a  golden  crown 
of  thorns. 

But  now  the  service  begins.  All  the  hymns  are  announced 
on  a  slate  so  that  one  escapes  the  noisy  doorkeeper,  whose  duty  is 

362 


to  walk  with  heavy  steps  over  the  floor  and  stairs  without  carpets 
in  order  to  hang  up  the  numbers  of  the  hymns.  Two  young 
clergymen  were  the  liturgists  and  one  of  them  at  least  possessed 
an  uncommonly  beautiful  voice.  The  organ  was  beautiful  and 
the  organist  played  well  and  briskly  both  with  reference  to  the 
liturgy  and  the  singing  of  the  hymns.  The  sermon  was  delivered 
by  Pastor  E.  Kahl.  As  a  text  the  preacher  had  chosen  James, 
5:  7,  8,  and  as  subject:  "xA.ll  our  labor  in  the  kingdom  of  God 
must  be  a  labor  in  patience  and  hope."  The  sermon  was  good 
and  elevating,  but  could  not  be  heard  without  effort  where  I  was 
seated.  Patience  is  not  the  same  as  not  to  meddle  with  the  evil 
in  doctrine  and  in  the  conduct  of  life.  Patience  and  hope  are 
nearly  related.  It  is  the  true  and  steadfast  hope  that  makes 
patience  possible  and  real.  Clergymen  in  a  bishopric  ought  to 
cheer  and  help  each  other  in  patience  and  love.  This  is  of  the 
utmost  importance  both  for  themselves  and  their  usefulness. 

After  a  hymn  had  been  sung,  Pastor  Abrahamson,  in  his  usual 
ardent  and  powerful  manner  extended  greetings  from  America, 
and  expressed  gratitude  to  Gothland's  bishop  for  his  visit  to  Amer- 
ica, four  years  ago.  The  speaker  laid  as  a  basis  for  his  discourse: 
"Remember  the  Lord  afar  off,  and  let  Jerusalem  come  unto  your 
mind."  It  is  God  who  leads  the  migrations  of  nations.  They 
will  be  of  service  to  His  kingdom  in  divers  ways.  Far  away  from 
the  earthly  religious  home,  children  remember  with  warmer  feel- 
ings their  privileges,  even  though  they  still  enjoy  them  with  their 
parents.  In  an  ardent,  clear  and  eloquent  manner  the  speaker 
portrayed  the  image  of  our  Augustana  people  before  the  audience 
who  listened  to  him  with  grateful  attention.  One  man  stood  up 
and  listened  with  eyes,  ears  and  mouth  simultaneously. 

The  church  of  Christ  possessed  its  former  strength  even  in 
America.  It  has  penetrated  our  land  further  and  further.  The 
Lutheran  church  numbers  about  one  and  one-half  million  com- 
municants, and  all  churches  collectively  above  fifteen  millions.  In 
the  beginning  of  the  century  every  23rd  person,  in  the  United 
States,  was  a  church  member,  but  now  every  4th  person. 

Pastor  xAbrahamson  showed  secondly  of  what  great  import- 
ance was  the  bishop's  visit  to  America,  and  expressed  gratitude 
to  the  bishop  for  it. 

Pastor  Kahl  closed  his  sermon  at  9:53  o'clock.  Pastor 
Abrahamson  stepped  down  from  the  pulpit  at  10:30.  At  eleven 
o'clock,  we  gathered  in  the  auditorium,  where  the  benches,  as 

363 


is  common  in  similar  places  in  Sweden,  were  without  supports  for 
the  back,  but  nevertheless  the  audience  sat  patiently  still  for  four 
hours. 

The  bishop's  discourse  touched  upon  the  importance  of  the 
"higher  criticism"  to  the  certainty  of  our  faith,  which  is  based 
on  the  authority  of  God's  Revelation.  I  do  not  know  whether 
the  theme  is  correctly  formulated,  but  hope  that  it  is.  Since  this 
important  and  highly  interesting  discourse  will  surely  appear  in 
print  it  is  not  best  for  me  to  review  it  here. 

Then  the  bishop  afforded  your  humble  servant  an  opportunity 
of  offering  a  word  of  greeting  from  the  great  land  of  the  west. 
I  had,  however,  listened  to  the  bishop's  discourse  on  the  afore- 
mentioned subject  with  such  interest  and  attention  that  it  was 
very  difficult  for  me  to  clothe  my  feelings  and  thoughts  in  suitable 
words,  the  more  so,  since  the  bishop  descended  from  the  pulpit 
and  assigned  the  place  to  me,  because  I  "was  an  honorary  doctor 
from  the  University  of  Upsala."  Completely  terrified  was  I  in 
my  American  plainness  and  simplicity,  when  both  the  bishop  and 
clergy  arose  to  listen  to  my  humble  and  insignificant  words. 

I  also  thanked  the  doctor  and  bishop  for  his  love  and  interest- 
evincing  visit  among  us  in  America.  Why  are  we  persevering 
Lutherans  in  the  new  land?  Ay,  partly  because  of  the  education 
and  tendency  our  forefathers  received  from  Sweden  as  members 
of  a  united  people,  who  have  received  and  still  receive  Christian 
instruction.  What  our  fathers  brought  with  them  as  an  heritage, 
they  have  actively  and  with  power  sought  in  turn  to  communicate 
to  their  children. 

But  in  America  the  Lutheran  church  must  win  its  own  place 
among  the  other  denominations.  In  Sweden  a  more  fortunate 
condition  exists  as  we  with  deep  and  grateful  emotion  often  re- 
member. Why  are  we,  then,  Lutherans?  Because  the  Lutheran 
church  possesses  such  a  complete  and  satisfying  conception  of 
both  the  Christian  life  and  the  authority  and  substance  of  God's 
Word.  Christian  life  begins  through  justification  by  faith  and 
consists  in  steadfastly  retaining  with  the  hand  of  faith  Christ  as 
the  basis  and  substance  of  our  spiritual  life.  The  Catholic  lives 
in  whatever  manner,  confesses,  believes  in  the  forgiveness  of  sins, 
and  often  lives  again  as  before.  The  Protestant  clothes  himself 
in  the  constraint  of  the  law,  where  everything  occurs  according 
to  his  own  instituted  program  deciding  in  catalogue  fashion  con- 
cerning the  allowable  and  the  unallowable.   A  Lutheran  Christian 

364 


lives  his  regenerated  life  in  love  and  gratitude,  performs  his  duties 
wherever  he  is,  wishes  to  consecrate  all  to  Christ  in  His  service, 
grasps  life  evangelically,  thanking  the  Lord  for  every  gift  and 
joy. 

We  are  also  Lutherans,  because  we  in  our  church  have  learned 
to  know  the  church  of  true  culture,  for  in  that  respect  our 
Lutheran  church  satisfies  one  of  the  greatest  and  holiest  demands 
of  the  human  spirit. 

We,  Lutherans,  accept  the  word  of  God  as  our  highest 
charter  of  salvation  and  give  to  our  old  Bible  full  faith,  conceding 
its  divine  and  therefore  decisive  authority  in  everything  con- 
cerning our  salvation.  This  fixed  point  of  view  is  a  great  advant- 
age in  our  stormy,  uncertain  time. 

We  find  great  difficulties  in  our  labors.  Our  Swedish  Luth- 
eran people  are  often  poor  and  moneyless  in  the  otherwise  rich 
America.  We  are  hardly  more  than  beginners  yet.  The  ques- 
tion of  language  causes  no  little  concern.  Sects,  now  lately  the 
bold  Swedish  Episcopalians,  crowd  us,  wherever  they  find  an 
opening.  We,  ourselves,  come  from  different  spiritual  harbors, 
and  are  affiliated  with  differing  tendencies.  Worst  of  all  at  the 
present  time  is  the  spiritual  indifTerentism  which  spreads  about  in ' 
all  directions  and  which  in  no  small  degree  is  evidenced  by  the 
so-called  secret  societies,  although  certainly  not  limited  to  these. 

Our  strength  lies  in  our  unity  in  confession,  our  common 
history,  our  common  aims. 

Now  followed  an  introduction,  by  C.  E.  Alfvegren.  dean  of 
the  district,  of  a  discussion  over  the  subject:  "Is  the  importance 
of  knowledge  to  Christian  life  properly  considered  in  our  day?" 

The  speaker  is  a  real  giant  not  only  physically  but  also 
in  another  sense.  One  was  animated  and  strenghtened  by  his 
discourse,  so  interesting  and  full  of  knowledge,  and  it  is  to  be 
hoped  that  it  will  appear  in  print.  Formerly  the  tendency  was  to 
lay  stress  on  knowledge  alone,  but  the  situation  among  many  had 
become  quite  otherwise.  Now  "life"  alone  was  spoken  of.  Just 
so  that  one  "lives"  it  makes  no  difference  what  he  believes  or 
knows.  The  speaker  showed  how  the  Scriptures  so  very  often 
made  use  of  the  expression  "knowledge,"  and  also  showed  the 
relation  between  faith  and  knowledge  in  a  sound  and  normal 
Christian  life.  Several  other  speakers  participated  in  this  ex- 
change of  opinions. 

After  a  hvmn  had  been  sung  a  new^  discussion  was  introduced 

365 


by  Pastor  G.  A.  Gradelius.  The  subject  was:  "Is  it  necessary 
for  the  person,  who  still  after  his  maturity  remains  in  the  baptis- 
mal Grace,  to  undergo  an  inner  change,  which  corresponds  to  the 
conversion  of  those  who  have  fallen  from  grace?"  The  speaker 
seemed  to  answer  this  in  the  negative,  but  several  others  after- 
wards answered  affirmatively  to  the  question  in  discussion.  To 
me  it  seemed  as  if  the  speakers  unknowingly  to  themselves,  placed 
altogether  too  little  importance  on  the  baptismal  grace  which . 
accompanies  even  infant  baptism.  Baptismal  grace  is  some- 
thing real,  not  alone  an  expletive  in  a  system.  A  couple  of  us 
Americans  participated  in  this  discussion  and  tried  to  show  that 
if  the  baptized  child  develops  normally  in  a  Christian  sense,  it 
requires  nothing  more  than  this,  that  that  already  is  implanted, 
should  grow  and  develop.  When  one  falls  from  baptismal  grace, 
the  question  of  conversion  arises,  and  the  preaching  of  this  should 
never  be  slackened  nor  neglected.  In  the  Christian  education  of 
children  we  should  kindly,  affectionately,  and  instructively  teach 
them  that  in  and  through  baptism  they  became  the  children  of 
God,  and  that  God  wills  that  they  should  so  remain.  We  shall 
then  have  the  most  gladdening  experiences  among  the  little  ones. 
Pastor  Gadd  protested  against  a  portion  of  what  we  said  and  your 
humble  servant  was  accused  of  being  too  orthodox,  an  allegation 
which  came  as  a  great  surprise,  for  certainly  I  have  been  accused 
of  both  this  and  that  in  my  day,  but,  as  far  as  I  know,  never 
before  was  I  accused  of  being  related  to  the  theology  of  Lund. 
Pastor  Gadd  is,  moreover,  a  Scanian.  Ay,  so  it  is;  however,  our 
American  opinion  was  the  prevailing  one,  and  several  thanked  us 
for  our  expressions,  among  whom  were  both  clergymen,  teachers 
— and  mothers.     Ay,  ay,  a  mother's  heart  is  always  the  same. 

The  bishop  summarized  the  discussion,  acceded  to  the  opinion 
of  those,  who  answered  in  the  negative,  but  gave  justice  to  all  as 
far  as  possible.  He  sought  literally  to  explain  everything  for 
the  best  and  sat  as  a  father,  a  patriarch,  among  his  children. 

The  following  questions  should  also  have  been  discussed,  but 
time  did  not  allow  it:  "Why  do  forgiven  sins  recur  as  accusing 
memories?"  Leader,  Pastor  Kullin.  "Has  the  resurrection  of 
Christ  been  improperly  placed  in  the  shadow  of  his  bloody  sacri- 
fice?" Leader,  Pastor  •  Lothberg.  "Does  the  glory  of  God  or 
man's  own  salvation  constitute  the  most  common  motive  of  piety 
in  our  day?"  Leader,  Pastor  Klint. 

All  the  clergvmen  who  participated  in  the  meeting,  and  their 

366 


wives  were  invited  to  take  dinner  at  the  residence  of  the  bishop. 
The  Augustana  Synod  possessed  the  following  representatives 
among  them:  Pastor  Abrahamson  and  wife,  Pastor  Douren  and 
wife,  Pastors  Lofgren,  Lundquist  and  Aaron,  and  your  humble 
servant  and  wife.  We  were  all  received  in  a  most  cordial  manner 
by  Bishop  von  Scheele  and  his  wife,  who  showed  themselves  to 
be  most  obliging  hosts.  The  clergy  of  Visby  bishopric  also 
received  their  co-laborers  from  the  far-west  with  fraternal  and 
complaisant  friendship. 

It  was  a  "gingbord."  Everything  happened  as  is  usual  in 
Sweden  on  similar  occasions.  These  "g^ngbord"  contribute  to 
making  the  festival  repast  less  constrained  and  stiff  and  make 
possible  a  companionship  which  is,  with  all  reason,  in  Sweden 
valued  very  highly.  The  host  and  hostess  had  friendly  words 
and  glances  for  all.  No  one  could  long  feel  himself  a  stranger 
in  such  a  circle.  The  customary  speeches  were  not  omitted. 
The  bishop  in  the  first  place  welcomed  the  Americans  among  the 
guests.  Through  the  great  kindness  of  the  bishop,  it  became 
my  duty  to  respond  to  the  cheerful  greeting  on  behalf  of  the 
Americans.  The  beloved  bishop  of  Visby  has  not  forgotten  his . 
visit  to  America  and  the  Augustana  Synod.  Think,  if  we  were  to 
be  again  so  highly  favored!  But  then  we  must  demand  that  the 
bishop  comes  not  alone,  but  in  the  company  of  his  "better  half." 

I  was  astonished  to  notice  how  the  bishop  reads  our  papers 
and  accordingly  knows  what  transpires  among  us  even  in  the 
minutest  detail.  He  loves  our  Synod  with  a  warm  and  disinter- 
ested love.  His  judgment,  matured  by  long  years  of  study  and 
useful  activity  in  many  lines,  by  numerous  travels  in  foreign  lands, 
by  the  holding  of  important  positions  of  trust  and  service,  indeed, 
by  a  life  consecrated  to  Christ  and  sacrificed  to  Him  ever  since 
his  youthful  days,  ought  to  be  especially  valuable  and  trust- 
worthy. :May  I  be  allowed  to  talk  of  divers  things  before  the 
dinner  is  concluded? 

Yes,  the  bishop  is  both  astonished  and  delighted  over  what 
the  Augustana  Synod  has  been  able  to  accomplish  during  hs 
comparatively  short  existence.  All  our  churches,  colleges, 
orphans'  homes,  parsonages,  hospitals,  etc.,  which  our  people 
have  erected  during  their  youthful  days  in  the  new  world,  all 
these  form  a  particularly  beautiful  page  in  the  church  history  of 
later  times.  Hard  times  bring  along  with  them  temptations  both 
for  the  individual  and  the  whole  Synod  to  forget  what  has  already 

367 


been  accomplished  in  the  years  that  have  passed.  Think  what 
Christian,  national  and  universal  education  and  culture  has  been 
imparted  to  our  people  by  the  activity  of  the  Synod  as  a  whole. 
Such  a  society  ought  not  to  become  low-spirited  because  financial 
panics  and  severe  crises  in  general  at  present  are  obstacles  in 
the  way.  With  grateful  remembrance  of  what  has  already  been 
accomplished  and  with  patient  trust  in  God's  continued  aid  and 
blessing,  all  will  go  well  hereafter  as  before. 

On  the  temperance  question,  the  bishop  unconditionally  takes- 
the  standpoint  that  absolutism  as  a  statutory  commandment  is 
both  un-Biblical  and  un-Lutheran.  The  bishop  himself  is  the 
most  moderate  and  temperate  man  that  can  be  imagined,  but  he 
does  not,  however,  believe  that  any  permanent  good  can  result 
by  denominating  as  a  sin  and  a  wrong  that  which  is  not  in  and  of 
itself  a  sin  or  a  wrong.  To  consvmie  moderately  beer  or  wine  is 
not  a  sin  nor  a  wrong,  and,  if  a  Christian  wishes  to  partake  of 
either  it  is  his  own  afifair,  but  no  one  else  has  a  right  to  compel 
him  to  the  one  or  the  other  in  this  question.  All  kinds  of  Phari- 
seeism  bear  in  the  end  poor  fruit  and  why  should  temperance- 
Phariseeism  be  an  exception?  At  this  earnest  and  beloved 
bishop's  festive  repast  beer  and  two  kinds  of  wine  were  served. 

But  now  the  dinner  was  over,  and  we  wended  our  way  to  the 
beautiful  orchard,  now  to  drink  coffee  and  continue  our  discus- 
sions. It  was  a  beautiful  afternoon  out  there  on  the  green.  The 
clergymen's  and  teachers'  "better  halves"  were  present  as  listen- 
ers, for  in  public  the  Swedish  woman  listens,  she  never  speaks  ex- 
cept in  very  rare  cases,  i.  e.,  among  the  sects.  Two  questions  were 
treated.  The  first:  "How  can  a  clergyman  in  a  private  manner 
aid  the  preparation  of  true  piety  among  the  common  people  with- 
out giving  support  to  donatistic  or  separatistic  delusions?"  The 
leader  of  the  discussion  was  the  bishop  himself,  who  amply  ac- 
counted for  the  whole  question  in  a  versatile  manner.  The  dis- 
cussion became  lively  and  instructive.  By  request.  Pastor 
Abrahamson  among  others  participated.  The  second  question 
pertained  to  "The  relation  of  the  salary  regulation." 

At  half  past  seven  we  gathered  for  an,  at  least  to  me,  unex- 
pected and  therefore  a  more  pleasant  conclusion  to  the  de- 
bates of  the  day.     It  was  a  sacred  concert,  held  in  the  cathedral. 


368 


CHAPTER  XXra. 

At  Fridhem  and  in  Visby. 

On  the  following  day  we,  in  the  company  of  the  bishop  and  his 
wife,  visited  Fridhem,  the  renowned  and  well  known  summer 
home  of  Princess  Eugenia.  It  now  belongs  to  Prince  Bernadotte. 
The  driveway  to  it  was  beautiful,  time  passed  rapidly,  and,  in  a 
short  while,  the  bishop  and  his  four  American  guests  were  there. 

This  summer  villa  appears  to  be  very  comfortable.  It  is  quite 
spacious,  but  is  not  pretentious.  Its  situation  is  especially  charm- 
ing. One  of  the  company  allowed  this  expression  to  escape  him, 
when  he,  from  an  upper  veranda,  viewed  the  forests  with  the  sea 
as  a  background:  "How  can  anyone  here  long  for  heaven?" 
He  meant,  doubtless,  that  in  a  home  so  beautiful  and  delightful 
on  earth,  the  present  is  all  that  can  be  desired.  Another  thought 
might  arise,  that  just  such  an  extraordinarily  charming  and 
attractive  situation  pointed  higher  and  led  the  fancy  where  it 
should  ever  be.  Indeed,  I  would  gladly  believe  the  latter.  Never- 
theless, it  was  a  vision  that  will  never  be  forgotten. 

Prince  Bernadotte  was  not  at  home,  but  we  met  his  princess 
and  the  little  ones.  The  princess  is  hardly  of  medium  height, 
somewhat  slender,  appears  simple,  modest  and  sweet,  and  is  very 
devout.  From  a  conversation  between  her  and  the  bishop  I 
gleaned  that  she  and  her  prince  are  kind  even  to  their  servants 
and  are  solicitous  for  the  future  of  all — a  characteristic  which 
merits  the  most  ample  recognition. 

The  princess  regarded  the  spiritual  condition  in  America  as 
being  altogether  very  alarming.  I  reminded  her  then  of  the 
great  zeal  displayed  in  the  work  there  and  also  brought  to  her 
recollection  a  bit  of  statistics  which  Pastor  Abrahamson  had  made 
use  of  on  the  previous  day,  which  showed  that  at  the  beginning  of 
this  century  only  one  out  of  twenty-three  was  a  church  member 

371 


and  now  one  out  of  four.  Then  the  good,  sweet,  kind-hearted 
princess  asked  just  as  the  old  separatists  in  America  used  to  do: 
•"Are  they  all  true  believers?  That  is,  after  all.  the  most  import- 
ant."" Indeed,  that  is  certainly  the  most  important  and.  allow  me 
to  sav,  we  had  realized  that  long  before  we  had  the  pleasure  of 
making  this  visit,  but  in  our  country,  church  membership  in  most 
cases  signifies  that  the  member  has  some  care  for  the  salvation 
of  his  soul,  something  which  membership  in  the  state  church  of 
Sweden  does  by  no  means  always  signify. 

The  prince  and  princess  are  both  truly  pious  and.  moreover, 
make  no  secret  of  it,  which  is  right  and  proper,  but  thousands  of 
their  friends  would  be  more  proud  of  them  both  if  they,  in  a  land 
which  is  Lutheran,  and  which  Lutheran  land  supports  them, 
placed  themselves  more  firmly  on  Lutheran  ground  and  did  not 
by  precept  and  example  lend  encouragement  to  all  sorts  of  things 
incompatible  with  true  church-life  and  good  Lutheranism. 

The  prince  allows  himself  many  free-church  liberties  that  are 
hardly  right,  if  he  considers  his  duty  as  a  Christian-Lutheran 
prince,  who  receives  his  support  from  a  Lutheran  nation  and  who 
himself  belongs  to  the  Lutheran  church.  A  Swedish  Lutheran 
prince  and  princess  should  always  be  found  among  them — it 
seems  that  one  has  a  right  to  demand  and  expect  it — who  labor 
for  the  improvement  of  the  church  by  encouraging  the  good 
which  is  really  found  in  it.  and  through  endeavoring  to  separate 
from  it  or  change  that  which  is  judged  to  be  otherwise. 

The  princess  was  very  kind  to  us,  accompanying  us  to  the  park 
and  showed  us  a  portion  of  Fridhem's  sceneries.  Her  children 
seemed  truly  sweet  and  good.  In  her  conipany  was  a  ]\Irs. 
Tjader.  wife  of  a  preacher  of  that  name.  Afterwards  she  pre- 
sented me,  at  my  request,  with  her  portrait  in  cabinet  size  for  our 
parlor  in  Bethany  Ladies'  Hall.  On  the  card  which  accom- 
panies it,  she  has  written  the  following  words:  "May  Jesus  be- 
com.e  known  and  reverenced  by  many  in  Bethany  College  and 
mav  His  kingdom  be  extended  as  well  in  the  old  as  in  the  new 
world."' 

A  heartv  thanks  for  the  brief  hour  we  spent  at  Fridhem.  ever 
memorable  both  for  her  sake,  who  now  no  longer  is  there,  and 
also  for  the  sake  of  those  who  have  become  the  worthy  succes- 
sors of  that  exemplary  princess. 

Did  we  see  the  town-walls  and  church-ruins?  Certainly,  and 
that  with  such  cicerones  as  the  bishop  and  his  wife.     Visby  is 


Sweden's  Rome,  Athens  and  Jerusalem,  with  respect  to  its  ruins 
and  antiquities. 

What  if  the  Swedish-American  youth  could  accompany  us 
on  such  a  visit?  They  would  then  understand  and  realize  that 
Sweden  is  an  old  country,  worthy  of  reverence,  so  old,  so  vener- 
able, that  a  Swede  decidedly  need  not  doff  his  hat  to  any  of  his 
neighbors. 

\'isby  is  situated  on  Gothland,  which  is  about  seventy  English 
miles  long  and  from  twenty  to  twenty-five  miles  wnde.  It  is 
sixty  miles  from  Sweden's  mainland  and  forty  from  Oland.  Goth- 
land has  ninety  churches,  many  of  them  magnificent  structures. 

At  one  time  in  the  history  of  the  world  Msby  was  a  powerful 
and  wealthy  city.  It  was  the  "pearl  of  the  Baltic,"  the  emporium 
of  its  commerce  and  renowned  in  all  climes. 

"Guld  vaga  de  Gutar  pd  lispundsvig 
Och  spela  med  adlaste  stenar. 
Svinen  ata  ur  silfvertrag, 
Och  hustrurna  spinma  pi  guldtenar." 

Then  commerce  was  carried  on  with  Asia  by  way  of  Novgorod 
in  Russia  with  Visby  as  warehouse  or  emporium.  This  was  in 
the  twelfth  century.  Gradually,  however,  the  course  of  com- 
merce with  the  east  was  changed,  but  Visby  was  yet  a  large  and 
powerful  city,  the  chief  among  Hanse-Towns,  a  cosmopolitan 
mart,  where  the  leading  nations  erected  their  own  churches,  were 
represented  in  the  council,  etc. 

Then  came  Valdemar  Atterdag.  1361,  and  by  military  strate- 
gem  and  treachery  succeeded  in  capturing  the  city.  Too  haughty 
to  enter  the  gates  he  caused  the  city  wall  to  be  torn  down  in 
two  places  and  thus  entered  the  proud  and  rich  city  which  was 
compelled  to  fill  the  largest  brewing-tub,  that  could  be  found  with 
gold  and  jewels  in  order  to  get  rid  of  their  unbidden  guests.  On 
the  return,  the  robber-king's  largest  ship  was  wrecked  off  the 
coast  of  Karlsoarna  where  the  ship  and  its  treasures  are  likely  to 
lie  buried  until  some  aSventurous  Englishman  or  American  re- 
covers them. 

After  this  the  Swedes,  Danes  and  Liibeckers  quarreled  about 
the  city  and  island,  and  on  account  of  this,  meddlesome  kings, 
other  fugitive  statesmen  and  revolutionists  gladly  frequented 
these  places.  We  remember  such  names  as  Ivar  A.xelson,  Severin 

Z7i 


Norrby,  Eric  XIII.  of  Pomerania,  etc.  By  the  peace  of  Brom- 
sebro  it  became  a  Swedish  possession  for  good. 

But,  for  the  present,  we  wander  among  its  ruins.  Visby  is  yet 
almost  entirely  surrounded  by  the  immense  town-wall  which  was 
erected  towards  the  close  of  the  13th  century.  On  the  side  look- 
ing towards  the  mainland  the  wall  is  7,200  feet  long  and  on  the 
side  towards  the  sea  about  5,910  feet.  The  wall  had  48  towers 
60-70  feet  high,  of  which  38  are  yet  in  a  tolerably  good  condition, 
as  is  also  the  wall  itself.  The  Virgin  tower  is  by  far  the  best. 
According  to  tradition,  the  beautiful  virgin  who  gave  Valdemar, 
who  pretended  to  love  her,  valuable  information  concerning 
Visby,  is  immured  there. 

The  old  trenches  can  be  seen  outside  the  wall. 

At  one  time  Visby  possessed  at  least  fourteen  churches  and 
three  cloisters.  Of  these  churches  but  one  now  remains,  the 
Maria  Cathedral.  Three  of  the  churches  have  evidently  com- 
pletely disappeared,  and  ten  are  in  ruins. 

West  of  the  cathedral  are  the  "twin-churches"  St.  Drotten  and 
St.  Lars,  erected  in  the  12th  century  and  provided  with  immense 
towers.  To  the  south  lie  the  ruins  of  the  extraordinarily  beautiful 
Francescan  church,  Katrina,  erected  in  Gothic  style  of  architec- 
ture about  1230.  The  masonry,  pillars  and  part  of  the  arch  still 
remain,  indicating  what  a  glorious  temple  this,  at  one  time,  was. 
The  Helgand  (Holy  Ghost)  ruins  have  two  stories  and  are  espe- 
cially interesting. 

The  largest  and  most  interesting  of  all  the  ruins  are  the  St. 
Nicholas  ruins.  This  sanctuary  is  supposed  to  have  been  erected 
in  the  13th  century.  Its  style  of  architecture  is  a  combination  of 
the  Gothic  and  the  Roman.  The  windows  in  the  chancel  are  master- 
pieces, which  neither  Liibeckers  nor  the  ravages  of  time  have  been 
able  to  entirely  destroy.  Such  carvings  in  stone  are  in  truth  rare. 
But  the  sparkling,  precious  stones  were  taken  by  Valdemar  and 
buried  with  his  splendid  vessel  in  the  ocean's  deep.  The  masonry, 
arches,  all  are  in  such  unusually  good  condition  that  a  restoration 
would  be  a  simple  matter.  High  up  on  the  ruins  grass,  flowers, 
bushes  and  trees  flourish.  The  floor  has  a  fine,  soft  carpet  of 
grass. 

In  these  ruins  festivals  are  held  where  trains  of  monks,  old- 
time  songs,  etc.,  form  the  programs.  Joyous,  youthful  voices  then 
penetrate  these  ancient  vaults.  Times  that  have  been  look 
solemnly  down  upon  the  time  that  is.     The  middle  age  remains 

374 


as  a  silent  witness  of  the  19th  century's  achievements.  I  wonder 
what  these  walls  and  arches  would  say,  possessed  they  the  gift  of 
speech? 

But  they  speak,  however,  they  speak  amidst  their  silence  of 
centuries.     Did  you,  Visby  visitor,  did  you  hear  their  voice? 


375 


CHAPTER  XXIV, 

To  Dalecarlia. 

Dalecarlia  is  one  of  the  greatest  and  most  interesting  sights  of 
Sweden.  There  is  no  true  Swede  any  place  in  the  world  who 
does  not  know  and  acknowledge  the  debt  of  gratitude  that  the 
whole  nation  owes  to  this  liberty-loving,  independent,  and  at 
times  untrustworthy  people,  who  in  former  days  lived  and  still 
do  live  in  this,  with  reason,  renowned  province. 

Dalecarlia  is  Sweden's  Fourth  of  July  province.  It  was  from 
thence  the  decisive  struggle  for  the  liberty  and  independence  of 
our  old  beloved  fatherland  victoriously  issued  and  extended  itself 
north  and  south.  Up  there,  for  we  love  to  imagine  that  it  lies 
far  away  in  the  north,  and  therefore  "up  there,''  although  in  reality 
it  is  situated  far  south  of  Sweden's  geographical  center — up  there 
one  wanders  on  historic  ground,  indeed,  on  liberty's  soil  in  the 
above  signified,  especial  meaning,  and  round  about  stand  monu- 
ments that  are  constant  reminders  of  what  has  here  come  to  pass. 

Dalecarlia  is  yet  today  itself  more  than  any  of  the  regions 
which  tourists,  as  a  rule,  visit.  The  people  have  retained  much  of 
their  old,  simple  and  faithful  customs,  dress  and  view  of  life. 
They  are  "living  pictures"  from  a  time  that  was,  but  no  longer  is, 
but  it  stands,  nevertheless,  with  countenance  turned  toward  the 
coming  day.  The  sunlight  of  the  present  time  has  cast  its  beams 
on  this  blossoming  cheek  also.  Siljan's  people  not  only  belong 
to  that  which  was,  but  also  to  that  which  is  and  shall  be.  One 
thinks  involuntarily  not  only  of  Engelbrekt  and  Gustavus  Vasa, 
but  also  of  Oscar  II.  when  one  visits  Dalecarlia. 

Should  anyone  desire  to  undertake  a  pleasant  tour  of  this 
country  and  that  without  much  loss  of  time  and  extravagant  ex- 
penditure, he  needs  but  study  the  Tourist  Society's  little  pamphlet 
concerning  Dalecarlia,  which  was  distributed  gratis  at  the  Expo- 
sition in  Stockholm.     The  Tourist  Society  is  one  of  the  most 

3/-S 


excellent  national  institutions  of  Sweden.  It  is  popular  and,  what 
is  better  and  greater,  it  deserves  this  popularity  more  than  words 
can  express.  Tlie  Tourist  Society  has  made  Sweden  acquainted 
with  itself,  has  increased  and  fired  the  people  with  a  love  of 
country,  has  made  travel  cheap  and  comfortable  for  tourists,  and 
has  created  an  enthusiasm  and  patriotism  which  enlists  great 
admiration  among  foreigners. 

"He  who  heeds  advice  is  wise."  Tourists  from  America 
should  leave  at  least  half  of  their  native  self-sufBciency  at  home, 
and  take  the  counsel  of  the  Tourist  Society  in  regard  to  journeys 
in  Sweden.  Write  to  or  call  at  their  headquarters  in  Stockholm, 
and  I,  in  all  honesty,  assure  you  that  your  stay  in  Sweden  will  be 
enhanced  in  value  to  you  in  whatever  light  you  may  view  the 
matter. 

We  left  Stockholm  at  9  o'clock  a.  m.,  having  bought  round- 
trip  tickets  for  the  whole  journey,  and  immediately  found  our- 
selves in  pleasant  and  memorable  company. 

First  of  all  I  remember  an  eloquent  Vermlander  who  sat  back 
of  us,  and  who  soon  joined  in  our  conversation  with  the  cashier, 
Mr.  Eriksson,  of  the  Avesta  Iron  Works,  and  others.  This 
Vermlander  was,  as  it  seems,  an  artisan,  who  had  taken  a  few 
days'  vacation,  in  order  to  see  the  world,  i.  e.,  Stockholm,  Upsala, 
etc.  He  had  read  not  a  little,  and  now  his  cup  of  happiness  and 
amazement  was  brimming  over.  He  had  seen  the  Exposition  and 
now  was  to  see  Upsala  and  Old  Upsala.  I  shared  his  happiness 
in  the  most  cordial  manner,  but  only  wished  that  he  would  give 
others  an  opportunity  to  say  something  or  at  least  ask  some  ques- 
tions. This  could  hardly  come  to  pass,  however,  for  his 
tongue  had  really  attained  such  a  speed  that  it  would  surely  have 
been  dangerous  to  try  to  check  it.  In  Upsala  our  friend  alighted 
from  the  train  and,  it  is  to  be  presumed,  found  Upsala  and  Old 
Upsala  fully  as  interesting  as  he  had  expected,  although  probably 
no  one  there  as  patiently  as  we,  listened  to  his  eloquence. 

We,  however,  cannot  stop  in  Upsala  this  time,  but  continue 
our  journey  by  the  same  train. 

Some  say  that  the  prairies  of  Upsala  are  ugly  looking.  I  wish 
to  quarrel  with  them  in  earnest.  The  beautiful  exists  in  many 
forms.  It  is  fashionable  in  Sweden  just  now,  it  seems,  to  expect  the 
scenery  of  Norrland  everywhere,  to  expect  lofty  and  gloomy 
clififs,  the  roar  of  the  waves  as  they  beat  on  the  strand,  and  mur- 
muring waterfalls  in  every  stream  and  brook.     I  admire  Norrland 

Z77 


and  that  which  is  specifically  northern  wherever  it  is  found,  but 
also  the  smiling,  happy  pictures  which  are  disclosed  even  in  other 
places  and  of  another  character.  A  view  of  the  prairies  of  Upsala, 
either  from  the  railroad,  whether  one  comes  from  Stockholm 
or  from  the  north,  or  even  from  a  comfortable  gig,  or  on  foot, 
and  I  have  tried  all  three  somewhat,  leaves  a  good  and  pleasant 
impression.  Besides  this  prairie  is  level  only  to  him  who  has 
seen  nothing  more  level.  There  is  much  to  admire  within  the 
frame  of  this,  to  me,  at  least,  expressive  and  beautiful  picture.  It 
was  well  that  Upsala  was  situated  on  a  plain.  It  was  well  that 
Sweden's  highest  and  greatest  university  had  room  both  to  elbow 
and  to  breathe. 

In  a  little  while  we  will  arrive  at  Sala,  and  therewith  at  the 
borders  of  Vestmanland. 

Here  is  found  Salberg,  called  at  one  time  "the  treasury  and 
most  precious  jewel  in  the  kingdom  of  Sweden."  The  silver  mine 
lies  two  and  a  half  kilometers  from  the  town,  and  produces  an- 
nually 2,500  kilograms  of  silver.  Formerly  silver  was  regarded 
in  Sweden  about  the  same  as  gold  to  us,  with  respect  to  money, 
and  copper  took  the  place  of  silver  with  us. 

In  Sala  we  saw  the  marshal  of  the  realm.  Baron  Von  Essen, 
promenading  at  the  railroad  station.  He  seemed  to  be  a  very 
powerful,  energetic,  and  suitable  man,  and  to  carry  his  years  with 
ease. 

Near  Krylbo  we  saw  the  Vasa  monument,  dedicated  the  6th 
of  June,  1896,  at  the  ferry  of  Brunnback,  where  Gustavus  Vasa 
and  the  Dalecarlians  gave  the  Danes  such  a  severe  trouncing  that 
they  either  fled,  or  were  driven  into  the  waters,  where  they  were 
drowned.  The  monument  is  18^  feet  high.  The  stone  is  said  to 
have  been  brought  from  Siljansnas.  Seventy  men  dragged  it  over 
the  ice  on  the  lake,  and  two  hundred  and  fifty  men  transported 
it  from  Krylbo  to  the  place  w^here  it  is  now  raised.  Cashier  Erik- 
son  had  had  much  to  do  with  the  erection  of  this  monument, 
indeed,  probably  more  than  anyone  else,  if  we  are  able  to  cor- 
rectly translate  his  Swedish  modesty  in  common  American  lan- 
guage. 

The  inscription  on  the  monument  reads  as  follows:  "For  the 
liberty  of  Sweden,  for  free  homes  and  country,  the  Dalecarlians 
here  fought  and  conquered  in  1521.  Grateful  countrymen  raised 
this  stone  in  1896." 

Avesta  has  2,450  inhabitants.     Its  iron  works  alone  give  em- 


THE  PRIN 


CESS  BERKADOTTE,   NEE  MUNCK,  PRINCE  OSCAR'S  CONSORT. 


ployment  to  700  men.  Their  wages  vary  between  2.50  and  6 
crowns  per  day,  which  implies,  relatively  speaking,  good  times  for 
the  laborer. 

I  have  more  respect  for  the  Swedish  laborer  in  America  than 
in  Sweden,  as  a  class.  Thousands  of  laborers  in  Sweden  earn  a 
good  day's  wages  which  far  exceeds  the  pay  that,  for  example, 
many  clergymen  must  be  satisfied  with.  But  how  many  save  a 
portion  of  their  earnings?  I  saw  sad  sights  with  respect  to  this 
matter  in  Sweden.  When  the  laborer  gets  his  pay  he  drinks, 
dances  and  uses  it  for  sinful  pleasures,  instead  of  setting  aside  use- 
ful and  necessary  savings  for  the  future. 

We  received  just  such  a  passenger  on  the  train  at  Krylbo.  He 
was  a  splendid,  strong  and  well-built  Dalecarlian,  a  laborer.  He 
w'as  just  drunk  enough  to  be  talkative.  Formerly  he  had  been 
a  member  of  the  Salvation  Army,  but  was  now-  an  apostate.  This 
Dalecarlian  related  in  a  short  while  what  kind  of  a  life  he  and  his 
associates  led.  When  the  summer  had  passed  he  had  nothing  left 
of  his  earnings.  He  acknowledged  his  folly,  but,  nevertheless, 
continued  in  it.  At  Hedemora  he  left  the  train.  His  image  will 
long  be  remembered.  It  was  a  warm  summer  day.  He  had 
but  shirt  and  trousers  on,  with  a  small  cap,  and  a  pair  of  heavy 
shoes  with  him.  A  splendid  figure,  a  fine  boy.  but  a  drunkard. 
Every  public  speaker  in  Sweden,  every  pastor  and  preacher  ought 
to  attack  Sweden's  greatest  enemy,  drunkenness,  which  just  there, 
in  Dalecarlia,  time  and  again  was  by  your  correspondent  in  a 
most  terrible  form. 

Hedemora  is  an  old  city.  Its  privileges  are  the  oldest  in  Dale- 
carlia, and  date  back  to  1459.  The  population  now  is  only  1,750, 
but  it  was  a  great  commercial  city  in  former  days.  Backman's 
Manual  Training  School  is  located  here.  In  it  old-fashioned 
furniture,  etc.,  is  manufactured.  It  contains  also  foundries,  me- 
chanics' workshops,  etc.     The  region  is  fertile  and  well  cultivated. 

We  travel  now  in  an  open  car,  in  order  to  get  a  better  view 
of  the  tract.  Pastor  Tengvald  and  myself  received  as  a  com- 
panion a  Baptist  preacher,  who  was  to  locate  in  Leksand,  and 
shortly  afterwards  a  ^Mission  preacher,  who  was  going  to  his 
home  near  Insjon  to  rest.  The  people  of  Dalecarlia  are,  un- 
fortunately, not  as  faithful  to  the  Lutheran  faith  and  doctrine  as 
those  of  \'estergotland. 

In  a  short  while  we  could  see  Bispbergsklacken  and  "Sater's 
beautiful  valley." 

383 


The  region  does  not  belie  its  fame.  With  genuine  admiration 
we  viewed  the  beautiful  scene  which  was  spread  before  our  vision. 
It  was  a  smiling  image,  full  of  youthfulness,  of  happiness,  of  hope. 
One  would  never  grow  tired  of  such  a  scene,  the  more  one  looked 
upon  it,  the  more  he  admired  it.  Both  the  picture  and  its  frame 
were  especially  impressive.  Our  only  complaint  was  that  the 
train  passed  this  scene  so  rapidly. 

We  continued  our  journey  to  the  northwest,  crossed  a  beauti- 
ful little  vale,  Solvarbo  valley,  and  again  approached  the  Dal  river. 
After  we  had  passed  the  station  "Gustaf,"  we  entered  the  Great 
Tuna  plain,  the  largest  in  all  Dalecarlia.  Just  before  reaching 
the  station  of  Great  Tuna,  we  passed  the  Rome  heath,  where  the 
militia  soldiers  of  Dalecarlia  have  their  camp  and  drilling  place. 
Refreshments  can  be  bought  at  the  station  only  during  the  time 
that  the  regiment  is  there. 

A  short  distance  to  the  north  stands  the  large  and  magnificent 
rural  church.  I  shall  never  forget  this  scene.  It  seemed,  time 
and  again,  as  if  the  churches  were  the  only  castles  the  country 
possessed.  In  Great  Tuna,  presumably,  the  people  till  the  soil 
more  than  in  other  regions.  It  is  well  then  if  the  church  becomes 
the  chief  gathering  place  of  the  people,  their  stronghold,  their 
beacon  of  light  and  strength.  Consider  what  would  Sweden  be 
today,  what  would  Dalecarlia  be,  if  it  were  not  for  our  Evangelical 
Lutheran  Church?     This  question  we  often  forget  to  answer. 

Near  the  church  is  erected  a  monument  bearing  the  name  of 
J.  O.  Wallin,  the  greatest  man  this  region  has  produced.  Wallin 
merits  remembrance,  merits  more  thanks  than  he  receives.  Had 
he  done  no  more  than  prevent  the  adoption  of  the  rational  Bible, 
it  would  be  enough  to  make  him  immortal,  and  the  object  of 
genuine  gratitude  forever.  But  he  did  more.  He  gave  us  in 
1819  the  hymn  book,  a  real  master-work  toliim  who  appreciates 
the  time  and  conditions  then  existing.  For  us,  Americans,  it  was 
especially  pleasant  to  view  the  mighty  temple  on  the  plains  of 
Dalecarlia,  and  remember  that  we  were  now  on  the  native  soil  of 
the  great  poet.  Who  said  that  the  poet  must  be  born  far  up 
among  the  mountains?  Let  him  journey  to  Great  Tuna  and  sec. 
Let  him  remember  the  great  and  talented  archbishop,  and  the 
great  psalmist  from  Dalecarlia's  largest  plain — a  most  beautiful 
picture  framed  by  smiling  hills. 

Time  passes  rapidly.  We  see  these  splendid  farmers  even  now 
in  the  summer  occupied  in  fertilizing  their  fields,  the  importance 

384 


J 


of  which  our  Swedish  farmers  in  America  are  very  slow  in  realiz- 
ing. They  understand  that  their  cattle  must  be  well  fed  in  order 
to  become  fat,  but  seem  to  forget  that  this  rule  applies  also  to  soil. 
They  know  that  a  horse  must  rest  at  times,  but  many  of  them 
give  their  soil  neither  rest,  nor  change.  In  Great  Tuna  the  farm- 
ers realized  the  necessity  of  both  most  evidently. 

Five  kilometers  beyond  lies  the  renowned  Ornastugan,  but 
unfortunately  we  did  not  travel  so  far.  It  was  here  that  Barbro 
Stigsdotter  saved  the  future  of  her  country  through  her  contriv- 
ance, presence  of  mind  and  heroism.  The  women  of  Dalecarlia 
did  their  part  before  the  men  were  ready,  yes,  were  faithful  while 
some  of  the  men  were  not.  How  often  is  this  not  the  case  in 
our  own  time!  All  honor  to  these  great  Dalecarlian  women  and 
their  true,  faithful  and  clearsighted  sisters  the  world  over.  But 
when  woman  grows  weak,  she  does  so  with  might. 

It  is  with  her  as  it  is  with  the  Vermlander;  either  very  good 
or  very  bad. 

The  journey  between  Insjon  and  Borliinge  is  picturesque. 
One  sees  most  beautiful  scenery  about  him  everywhere.  Our 
train  advances  rapidly  along  the  Dal  river.  The  valley  is  enclosed 
by  high  hills  and  mountains.  There  we  have  Gimsberg  and 
Djurmo.  Shortly  we  are  in  Dufniis,  and  at  Djurds  is  the  con- 
fluence of  the  eastern  and  western  branches  of  the  Dal  river. 
From  this  place  a  journey  of  30  kilometers  will  bring  us  to  Floda, 
"The  summer  delight  of  Western  Dalecarlia!"  where  "the  people 
have  a  cheerful  heart,  and  the  maidens,  beautiful  to  behold,  dress 
in  bright  colors." 

We  are  now  at  Gagnef,  where  we  would  willingly  have  stopped 
in  order  to  bring  greetings  to  the  parsonage  from  a  dear  friend  in 
America,  but  the  train  is  in  a  hurry,  and  so  are  we,  so  that  we 
immediately  resume  our  journey. 

In  a  short  while  we  reached  the  end  of  our  journey,  the  Siljan 
valley.  What  would  Dalecarlia  be  without  Siljan?  A  home 
without  a  mother,  a  church  without  a  preacher,  an  altar  without 
an  altar-piece,  a  young  people's  festival  without  song,  without 
poetry.  Welcome  moment,  when  we  for  the  first  time  did  be- 
hold the  fair  countenance,  the  features  so  eagerly  longed  for, 
thou  queen  of  the  North! 

This  is  Insjon.  Here  we  take  a  steamer,  and  continue  our 
journey  on  Lake  Siljan.  It  was  almost  with  regret  that  we 
stepped  off  our  little  train  with  its  open  car,  but  hope  lured  this 

585 


regret  away.  For,  to  be  sure,  we  were  to  see  Siljan.  We  were 
to  judge  with  our  own  eyes  whether  the  proud  DalecarUans  had 
good  reason  for  their  independent,  intoxicated  and  poetic  joy  over 
Siljan  and  its  smihng  shores.  Should  we  not,  then,  look  forward 
with  longing? 


386 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

"The  Eye  of  Dalecarlia." 

We  now  stepped  aboard  the  "Gustaf  Vasa"  and  sped  away  to 
the  end  of  our  journey,  Mora.  In  a  short  while  we,  and  our 
boat,  were  at  Leksand  Noret,  where  the  river  flows  into  the  lake. 

Leksand  is  the  most  densely  populated  parish  of  Eastern 
Dalecarlia.  Its  population  is  about  10,000.  As  we  will  return  to 
this  large  parish  next  Sunday  for  the  morning  service,  we  con- 
tinue our  journey  immediately,  with  a  friendly  thought  of  Andrew 
Anderson,  a  graduate  of  Bethany  College,  who  has  been  at  home 
for  a  visit,  this  summer.  Women  in  their  beautiful  national  cos- 
tumes, and  men  in  caps,  and  with  leathern  aprons  enveloping 
their  usual  garments,  could  be  seen  in  great  crowds. 

It  is  twenty-five  minutes  of  seven,  when  the  boat  is  piloted 
out  on  Siljan's  bright  mirror-like  waters.  It  was  a  beautiful 
evening.  Oh,  how  smiling,  joyful,  and  inviting  these  shores 
appeared.  Chatauqua  is  America's  Siljan,  but  it  is  not  as  large, 
and,  moreover,  lacks  the  variety  of  scenery  which  is  so  captivating 
in  Dalecarlia. 

\\'e  now  met  four  English  tourists  on  the  boat  who,  as  we 
too,  had  resolved  to  take  this  trip  on  account  of  the  pamphlets 
concerning  Dalecarlia  which  were  distributed  by  the  Tourists' 
Society.  It  pays  to  advertise  even  in  Sweden,  and  our  old  father- 
land has  done  too  little  of  it  hitherto.  This  whole  year  will  be 
Sweden's  greatest  advertisement  of  the  century.  These  four 
Englishmen  belonged  to  the  British  legation  at  Stockholm,  and 
two  of  them  were  secretaries.  Pleasant  people.  \'ery  little  of 
John  Bull  about  them. 

This  is  Siljan.  O,  how  the  Dalecarlians  had  praised  it  to  me! 
The  child  of  Leksand,  Cashier  Swensson,  of  Lindsborg,  con- 

387 


sidered  it  hardly  worth  while  to  travel  to  Sweden  unless  he  could 
see  the  "eye  of  Dalecarlia."  That  sounded  very  boastful,  but 
since  I  have  myself  seen  Siljan,  he  who  writes  these  lines  will 
unqualifiedly  vote  with  the  proud,  patriotic  Dalecarlians.  It 
is  a  charming  place,  and  a  visit  there  a  Swedish-American  will 
never  forget. 

While  I  have  been  talking  we  have  sailed  out  upon  the  beauti- 
ful lake,  which  is  about  40  kilometers  long  and  11  kilometers 
wide.  Pastor  Tengvald  and  your  humble  servant  stand  amazed 
on  deck,  and  gaze  upon  this  remarkably  beautiful  scene.  The 
shores  are  at  first  only  smiling  graces,  very  kind  and  inviting. 
Further  on  they  became  darker,  more  somber,  with  a  back- 
ground of  pines  and  mountains. 

But  look  first  and  last  upon  this  wonderful  mirror  of  water. 
Trace  the  changing  day  upon  the  bright  silver  dial.  Heaven 
mirrors  itself  happily  in  it,  but  then  the  bashful  Siljan  blushes 
time  and  again,  and  a  roseate  glimmer  is  chased  back  and  forth 
on  her  fair  countenance.  The  sun  looks  joyfully  on  while  he 
in  another  direction  makes  for  our  boat  a  most  lavish  passage 
of  silver.  Who  will  ever  forget  such  a  beautiful  scene  after 
once  having  had  the  pleasure  of  beholding  it? 

"Gustai  Vasa"  glides  rapidly  on.  In  twenty  minutes  we  are 
at  Siljansnas.  This  parish  has  separated  itself  from  Leksand,  to 
which  it  formerly  belonged.  Here  lives  a  sturdy,  old-fashioned 
people  with  corresponding  old-fashioned  customs  and  language. 

On  the  right  can  be  seen  Rattvik.  On  the  left  are  a  chain  of 
hills  which  seem  to  rise  immediately  out  of  the  water  and  among 
which  Gesunda  hill  is  the  loftiest.  To  the  north,  right  before 
us,  is  the  widest  extent  of  Siljan. 

Away  to  the  northwest  is  seen  a  beautiful  spire.  It  is  the 
church  tower  of  Mora.  We  pass  east  of  Sollero,  where  St. 
Sophia  Magdalena  Church  stands.  On  this  island  Siljan's  ship- 
builders live.  Now  we  steam  by  the  place  where  the  eastern 
Dal  river  flows  into  the  sea,  and  then  we  glide  into  the  Sax-viken, 
and  shortly,  at  eight  o'clock,  we  are  at  Mora. 

But  we  have  proceeded  altogether  too  rapidly,  and  we  look 
back  at  Rattvik  with  genuine  gladness  and  fascination.  Pastor 
Tengvald  calls  out:  "The  church  looks  more  like  a  lighthouse 
than  a  church."  "Excellent,"  replied  I.  "She  must  be  a  beacon 
tower."  At  and  in  their  churches  the  Dalecarlians  have  received 
their  best  impressions,  and  formed  those  resolutions  which  have 

388 


made  them  immortal  in  history.  Faithful,  splendid  Rattvik,  we 
shall  soon  make  your  acquaintance. 

These  are  already  the  last  days  of  July.  Time,  why  dost  thou 
hasten  so  in  Sweden  during  the  summer?  "Hasten,  certainly 
not.  I  have  chased  away  night,  and  have  given  you  all  days 
twice  as  long  as  in  the  south."  True  enough,  but  soon  night 
comes  on  again,  and,  when  she  does  come  back,  she  soon  removes 
this  cause  of  joy.  We  are  approaching  Mora.  It  is  almost 
eight  o'clock,  but  the  sun  already  thinks  of  making  a  shift.  What 
a  beautiful  introduction!  Thanks,  old  Sol,  for  the  pleasure  of 
being  present,  and  beholding  such  a  scene.  Thanks  for  the  glori- 
ous painting  which  not  even  the  world-renowned  son  of  Mora, 
Anders  Zorn,  can  fully  delineate. 

This  is  the  renowned,  ancient,  and  historic  Mora.  A  little 
(nsignificant  place  in  itself,  but  beautiful  and  rich  in  memories — 
ind  a  fine  summer  climate.  See,  we  are  now  at  the  wharf. 
There  we  see  Dr.  Bersell,  of  Rock  Island,  and  the  artist  Anders 
Zorn.  They  were  in  a  terrible  hurry,  so  we  had  not  the  pleasure 
of  meeting  them. 

In  a  short  while  we  have  engaged  a  large,  splendid  room  at 
an  hotel,  and  immediately  we  go  out  to  see  the  village.  Below 
us  lies  Siljan.  It  is  not  only  beautiful  but  even  magnificent. 
Here  also  the  floating  of  timber  is  the  outward  evidence  of 
Nature's  bounty  to  Sweden.  Over  the  Siljan,  4,500,000  logs  have 
taken  their  first  journey  this  year.  But,  to  be  sure,  we  are  right 
along-side  of  the  richest  parish  in  the  world,  Orsa,  which  pos- 
sesses at  the  present  time  a  treasury  of  nine  and  a  half  million 
crowns. 

It  was,  however,  not  crowns  but  memories  that  we  sought 
in  Mora.  First  we  wandered  over  to  the  Utmeland  monument, 
said  to  be  the  most  important  historic  structure  in  Dalecarlia. 
It  consists  of  a  building  erected  by  general  subscription,  and  of 
sandstone,  from  a  design  by  Professor  Scholander.  It  was 
opened  in  i860.  The  coat-of-arms  of  the  Vasa's  and  Gustavus' 
Latin  motto:  "Beatus  qui  timet  Dominum"  (Blessed  is  he  who 
fears  God)  appears  over  the  entrance.  On  entering  one  is  de- 
lightfully suprised  by  beautiful  paintings,  and  other  tasty  decora- 
tions. "Ornas"  by  Edward  Berg,  "Gustavus  and  :\Iargit,"  by 
Flockert,  and  "Byn  Salen,"  by  the  late  King  Charles  X\'..  are 
paintings  which  adorn  the  walls  of  this  temple  of  memory. 

We  creep  down  into  the  renowned  cellar-hole.     It  was  both 

389 


small  and  dark,  but  not  too  small  or  unseemly  to  have  at  one 
time  served  as  the  hiding  place  of  Sweden's  George  Washington, 
Gustavus  I.  Here  also  it  was  a  faithful  woman  who  served  as  a 
rescuing  angel.  Honor  and  thanks  to  thee,  thou  Swedish 
woman,  for  what  thou  hast  been  and  art,  both  in  old  Sweden  and 
in  our  own  great  America! 

On  the  following  morning  we  were  up  early,  and  surveyed  the 
village  further.  See,  there  we  read  the  simple  and  yet  important 
inscription:  "From  this  spot  Gustavus  Vasa  spoke  to  the  men 
of  Mora,  1520."  In  those  times  it  was,  in  truth,  not  so  pleasant 
to  be  a  Swede  as  now.  The  deeds  of  Gustavus  Vasa  shall  never 
pale  on  the  pages  of  history.  His  memory  well  deserves  all  the 
attention  it  receives  in  Dalecarlia,  and  in  other  parts  of  our 
fathers'  land,  and  also  among  their  children  in  America. 

We  visited  also  the  old  belfry,  and  church  with  its  churchyard. 
The  church  was  interesting  with  its  paintings,  old  tombstones, 
royal  addresses  (by  Gustavus  HL  and  Oscar  H.),  carpets  in  the 
gallery  stairs,  a  Mason  &  Hamlin  organ,  comfortable  benches, 
large  skins  of  wild  animals  in  the  church-porch,  and  other  things 
which  I  have  forgotten. 

Thereupon  we  paid  a  visit  to  Sweden's  most  renowned  artist, 
now  living,  Anders  Zorn,  known  in  America  ever  since  the 
World's  Fair  in  Chicago,  1893.  Zorn  is  as  able  a  business  man 
as  he  is  an  artist,  and  is  a  warm  friend  of  his  fatherland,  so  warm, 
indeed,  that  he  has  offended  certain  Swedish-Americans  on  ac- 
count of  it,  which,  according  to  my  opinion,  accrues  to  his  honor, 
and  furthermore  he  is  a  faithful  son  of  Mora.  Up  there  he  has 
his  villas,  and  keeps  his  interesting  collections,  which  are  at  the 
service  of  the  public  when  he  is  away. 

We  found  him  at  home.  He  received  us  in  a  most  cordial 
manner.  Mr.  Zorn  is  of  medium  height,  has  piercing  eyes, 
beautiful  moustache,  and  looks  considerable  younger  than  he  in 
reality  is.  He  was  dressed  in  knee-breeches,  carried  one  hand 
bandaged,  and  held  a  straw  hat  in  the  other.  All  was  northern 
about  him.  On  the  floor  was  a  home-woven  carpet.  Home- 
woven  curtains  draped  the  windows.  We  sat  on  yellow,  home- 
made wooden  chairs,  with  yellow  leathern  cushions.  On  the  walls 
were  costly  china  and  other  bric-a-brac.  One  felt  with  pride, 
here  lives  a  Swede  who,  although  world-renowned,  is  not 
ashamed  of  being  Swedish.     All  honor  to  such  men! 

Mr.  Zorn  has  become  accustomed  to  visit  America  occa- 

390 


■'.  .>■' 


sionally.     He  is  very  likely  to  continue  his  visits.     Welcome. 

I  forgot  to  mention  that  Zorn,  besides  all  else  good  and  true 
that  can  be  said  of  him,  is  also  an  especially  compassionate  and 
benevolent  man. 

Zorn  was  chatting  away.  Concerning  Prof.  Grafstrom,  then 
instructor  at  Bethany,  now  at  Augustana  College,  he  said:  "I 
was  a  boon  companion  of  Grafstrom  at  the  Academy  of  Arts, 
but  since  then  I  have  not  seen  him."  Prof.  Lotave,  now  of 
Bethany,  was  ^Ir.  Zorn's  most  prominent  pupil  at  Paris. 

The  artist  is  greatly  charmed  with  his  fatherland  in  general 
and  especially  with  its  beautiful,  natural  sceneries.  He  believes, 
however,  that  there  was  not  enough  of  push  and  advertising  in 
dear,  old  Sweden.      The  Swedes  are  too  modest  and  unassuming. 

He  asked  us,  how  long  we  had  been  in  America.  Once  more 
I  was  taken  to  be  a  true  and  original  Swede.  I  did  not  disabuse 
him  of  his  mistake. 

Now  off  for  Orsa,  the  richest  country  parish  in  the  world. 
The  village  numbers  three  hundred  people.  As  usual,  we 
wended  our  way  to  the  church.  Rev.  Polgren  became  our 
cicerone. 


393 


CHAPTER  XXVL 

From  Orsa  to  Rattvik. 

We  are  now  in  the  opulent  Orsa,  and  possess  an  excellent 
cicerone  in  Pastor  Polgren.  Of  course,  we  viewed  the  old 
church,  the  most  ancient  part  of  which  dates  from  the  14th  cen- 
tury, but  it  has  afterwards  been  enlarged,  botli  toward  east  and 
west.  The  tower  was  erected  1853.  It  is  now  proposed  to 
restore  the  old  fane. 

On  a  pillar  we  read:  "King  Oscar  II.  visited  this  church 
on  the  15th  of  September,  1892,  when  after  the  inauguration 
of  the  Mora-Vennern  railroad  he  traveled  by  the  newhy  con- 
structed line  Orsa-Falun.  In  the  sacristy  were  hung  portraits  of 
Charles  XI.  and  Charles  XII.,  and  a  couple  of  other  princes.  It 
is  surmised  that  Charles  XL  had  been  there  on  a  visit.  The 
altar-piece  represents  the  Ascension  of  Christ.  The  pulpit  is 
erected  by  the  side  of  one  of  the  pillars. 

The  parish  possesses  9,500,000  kronor  in  the  forestry-fund  of 
Orsa.  The  yearly  interest  amounts  to  about  350,000  kronor,  and 
is  used  for  new  roads,  drainage,  school-houses,  parsonages,  etc. 
There  are  6,323  people  in  the  parish,  which  has  an  area  of  ten 
Swedish  square  miles  (about  450  English  square  miles).  There 
are  farms  which  lie  a  distance  of  40  English  miles  from  the 
church.  Orsa  owns  a  small  "Finnmark,"  or  outlying  virgin  forest 
district,  with  250  inhabitants.  Sermons  are  held  not  only  in 
the  church,  but  sometimes  also  at  the  far-distant  homesteads. 
The  people  of  Orsa  are  not  diligent  church-goers.  There  are 
some  Mission-Friends  and  Baptists,  but  it  is  worse  with  regard 
to  that  spiritual  indifference  that  has  no  craving  for  the  word  of 
God  neither  in  church  nor  in  meeting-house. 

Blue-ribbonists  agitate  for  temperance,  and  found  their  work 
on  the  principles  of  Christianity,  said  our  complaisant  cicerone, 

394 


The  people  drink  both  beer  and  brandy,  but  no\v-a-days  perhap:- 
niostly  beer.  Drunkenness  flourislies  principally  among  the  labor- 
ers employed  on  the  roads  and  railways,  and  in  forcstry-work. 

Orsa,  Sarna,  Lima,  Transtrand  and  Elfdal  were  said  to  possess 
reserve-forests.  The  glebe-forests  are  managed  in  a  rational 
Avay.  The  companies  bu\-  forest-land  on  30  or  50  years.  Here 
and  there  occur  much  spoilation  of  forest,  particularly  among 
small  owners. 

Dean  Abenius,  in  Orsa,  is  '/'j  years  old.  The  perpetual  cu- 
rate's name  is  Ludwig  Carlsson,  and  the  assistant  pastor,  as  we 
already  have  said,  is  Rev.  Polgrcn.  The  dean's  income  is  good. 
The  benefice  and  5,000  kronor  salary.  The  forest-revenue  about 
900  kronor.  Lumber-lease  every  third  year.  This  amounted 
on  one  occasion  to  1,300  kronor,  and  at  another  time  to  4,600 
kronor  for  three  years.  The  perpetual  curate  gets  1,800  kronor 
and  the  benefice,  and  besides  about  100  kronor  in  forest-revenue, 
and  perhaps  something  more  that  I  did  not  hear  of.  But  the 
perpetual  curate  takes  private  pupils,  and  is  bank-comptroller. 
The  assistant-pastor  gets  a  lump — 650  kronor,  and  his  board  and 
lodging  free! 

The  clergy  in  ^lora  are  Dean  D.  Berg,  D.  D.;  Perpetual  Cu- 
rate A.  G.  Mattsson  and  the  organist  and  Pastor  Skoglund. 

Dean  Petersson  in  Sunborn  is  a  member  of  the  first  con- 
gressional chamber. 

With  reference  to  politics  perhaps  the  majority  in  Orsa  are 
radicals  and  free-traders.  They  are  against  the  agitation  for 
military  defence,  and  against  the  church,  which  is  mainly  caused 
by  the  ignorance  and  immaturity  in  political  matters  of  the  com- 
mon people  at  large.  Besides,  it  frequently  happens  that  the 
school-teachers  lean  too  much  toward  the  radical  left  side,  both 
in  political  and  church-matters.  The  cause  of  this  is  in  all  prob- 
ability not  to  be  found  in  the  pedagogic  seminaries,  but  is  a 
sign  of  the  times. 

The  church  was  kept  together  by  means  of  large  iron-cramps. 
We  saw  an  old  baptismal  font  from  1531  with  inscription:  "]\Lay 
thy  holy  spirit  come  unto  us!     Help  us,  Jesus." 

We  continue  the  information.  In  the  parish  there  are  eleven, — 
and  will  soon  be  thirteen — common  public  schools,  three  minor, 
and  nineteen  infant  schools,  with  altogether  40  teachers,  male  and 
female. 

Now  up  in  the  tower.    Different  temperature  in  the  church  at 

395 


the  various  stories  in  the  tower;  all  the  way  from  Alas]^it  to 
Texas,  as  it  were.  The  walls  of  the  tower  up  to  the  first  landing 
are  eight  feet  in  thickness.  What  impress  can  a  few  hundred 
years  make  on  such  a  wall?  The  church  bells  cannot  be  rung, 
they  must  be  struck  with  a  hammer.  The  view  from  the  tower 
apertures  was  glorious  in  all  directions,  yea,  never-to-be-forgot- 
ten. 

We  heard,  among  other  things  in  Orsa,  that  Pastor  A.  Carls- 
son,  a  highly  esteemed  friend  and  colleague  from  America,  was 
on  a  visit  in  the  neighborhood,  and  that  he  had  made  an  exceed- 
ingly good  impression,  which  was  to  be  expected  of  him. 

We  still  feel  grateful  to  our  kind  cicerone.  After  partaking 
of  dinner  at  the  Railway  Hotel  we  left  with  the  train  for  Rattvik  a 
little  while  after  3  o'clock.  Some  lively  youths  came  into  the 
same  open  car  as  we.  The  people  were  working  in  the  fields. 
We  observed  a  woman  with  her  child  tied  on  her  back.  Now 
we  speed  through  a  fir  and  pine-tree  forest.  Here  and  there  are 
clearings  through  which  we  behold  Siljan  for  a  few  moments. 
The  train  takes  us  past  hamlets  with  small,  sunny  houses  and 
barns,  railway-depots,  wild  forest,  agricultured  lands,  saw-mills, 
etc. 

From  Mkarbyn  to  Rattvik  one  travels  as  in  a  dream.  "He 
who  has  not  seen  the  road  from  Vikarbyn,  where  darkness  and 
light  lie  close  to  each  other,  but  as  if  in  the  act  of  separating, 
like  morning  from  night,  he  must  never  speak  of  having  been 
in  Dalecarlia."  (O.  S.  von  Unge.)  Yes,  the  view  was  indeed 
glorious.  Tiny  clouds  floated  here  and  there  in  the  summer 
air.  They  threw  the  most  variegated  light  and  shades  over  the 
beautiful  Siljan.  Lo!  there  a  flood  of  light,  now  a  veritable  silver 
shimmer,  then  bronze,  and  all  of  a  sudden  an  iron-grey  tinge 
over  it  all,  and  particularly  over  the  mountains,  which  seemed 
far  distant.  But  the  bright,  gladsome  lights  gained  the  victory, 
they  were  in  the  majority. 

We  are  nearer  Rattvik.  Behold  the  blithe,  verdant  shores 
away  yonder.  How  youthful  and  refreshing  they  appear!  The 
sombre  fir-tree  forest  is  grand  and  beautiful,  but  O!  how  delight- 
ful it  is  to  gaze  in  rapture  afterwards  on  the  smiling  verdure  on 
the  opposite  shore. 

Rattvik.  We  obtained  a  fine  room  at  the  Tourist  Hotel, 
which  latter  deserves  the  most  unstinted  praise.  Oh,  indeed,  this 
is  the  loyal,  old    Rattvik,    Siljan's  most  fertile  parish,  with  its 

396 


doughty,  stalwart  men  and  women.  It  felt  indeed  strange  to 
be  there — and  be  staying  at  a  tourist  hotel  with  all  the  modern 
accommodations. 

W'e  immediately  start  for  a  walk  through  the  woods  to  the 
church  and  the  handsome  \"asa-monument.  It  is  strange,  but 
the  tourist  to  Siljan  thinks  very  little  of  the  present  time,  it  is 
the  past  ages  that  are  conjured  up  before  his  mental  vision. 

Now  we  have  arrived  at  the  monument.  A  huge  block  of 
granite,  dressed  only  on  one  side,  with  twelve  smaller  memorial 
stones  all  around;  thus  they  have  depicted  it  to  themselves  in 
Rattvik,  and  thus  it  has  also  been  executed.  We  felt  almost  as 
if  we  had  trod  on  sacred  soil.  Let  us  read  the  names  on  the  lesser 
stones  first:  Barbro  Stigsdotter,  Inge  Michelsson,  Jacob  Ja- 
cobsson,  Lars  Olofsson,  Sven  Elfsson,  Sven  Elfsson's  wife.  Mats 
and  per  Olsson,  Ingel  Hansson,  Tomt  Matts  Larsson,  Tomt 
Margit,  Store  Gulbran,  Lars  and  Engelbrekt  from  Kettilbo. 

Now  we  come  to  the  great  monument.  In  the  center  we  read : 
Sweden's  King  and  people  raised  this  memorial  1893." 

In  the  "runic  serpent"  we  read:  Gustavus  Eriksson  Vasa  ap- 
pealed for  the  first  time  publicly  in  December,  1520,  at  the  church 
of  Rattvik,  to  the  Dalecarlians,  urging  them  to  save  the  country 
from  foreign  power  and  oppression.  Here  a  fight  took  place 
against  Kristian's  soldiers  in  January,  1 521. This  achievement  was 
the  beginning  of  the  war  for  freedom,  and  was  performed  by 
the  men  of  Rattvik  only,  who,  during  all  complications  ever  re- 
mained faithful  to  Gustavus.  The  foundation  was  thereby  laid  to 
Gustavus'  achievement  of  Sweden's  independence  and  develop- 
ment." 

"During  all  complications — faithful,"  those  words  weigh  heav- 
ily in  favor  of  the  people  of  Rattvik.  Those  words  make  their 
courage  still  more  commendable.  It  is  good  to  begin  well,  best 
to  continue  well  until  the  goal  is  reached. 

Dear  reader,  consider  how  much  good  we  all  have  enjoyed  on 
account  of  Gustavus  Vasa  and  the  Dalecarlians.  The  fruit  of  this 
exploit  has  not  remained  in  Sweden,  it  belongs  to  the  whole 
world.  Seldom  have  the  links  of  history  been  so  well  and  closely 
connected  as  in  this  instance.  Gustavus  Vasa — Charles  IX. — 
Gustavus  Adolphus, — you  see  here  the  connection  traced  on  his- 
tory's page,  and  without  this  connection  how  would  the  history 
of  later  times  have  appeared?  Bring  forth  the  Swedish  heroes  in 
the  broad  day-light.    Accord  them  their  right  place.    Away  with 

397 


the  braggarts  of  ancient  pedegree,  who  only  have  shed  blood,  and 
whose  exploits  have  left  no  lasting  result.  Gustavvis  \"asa  in 
Dalecarlia,  Charles  IX.  at  the  battle  of  Stangebro,  and  Gustavus 
Adolphus  at  Breitenfeld  and  Liitzen;  ye  that  are  young,  behold 
the  image,  learn,  bend  your  knee  at  the  memorial  stone,  and 
humbly  thank  the  God  of  your  forefathers  for  His  mercy  to  them, 
and  by  that  also  to  us. 

The  emblems  on  the  stone:  The  crown,  two  crossed  arrows, 
the  sheaf.  No  explanation  is  needed  to  the  Swedes,  but  to 
foreigners  perhaps  that  the  Swedish  for  sheaf  is  "vase,"  hence 
the  allusion  to  the  escutcheon  of  Gustavus  Vasa. 

We  wended  our  way  towards  the  church,  through  the  beau- 
tiful avenue.  Ye  people  of  Kansas  and  Nebraska,  here  I  met 
with  our  own  tree,  the  cotton-wood,  in  fine,  large  specimens.  Be- 
hold the  colossal,  horizontal  grave-monuments  of  stone  and  iron. 
Those  little  huts  are  stables.  The  shingles  on  the  church-roof 
are  at  least  an  inch  and  a  half  thick.  There  is  a  lightning  con- 
ductor, and  a  long  ladder  so  that  they  can  immediately  get  up 
on  the  roof  in  case  of  a  fire.  The  church  is  a  large  cruiciform 
edifice.  Globe,  cross  and  weather-cock  on  the  top  of  the  spire. 
Read  there  on  the  memorial  slab:  "God  be  merciful  to  Erik 
Nicolai.  Pax  in  terris.  Murdered  in  the  church  for  his  friendli- 
ness towards  the  Danes."  This  probably  occurred  during  the 
Sten  Sture  period. 

The  church  dates  from  the  early  Christian  era.  It  had  three 
naves  when  Gustavus  Vasa  was  there. 

One  clergyman,  A.  Berelius,  has  officiated  in  Rattvis  66 
years. 

The  breastwork  of  the  galleries  are  ornated  with  paintings  by 
rustic  artists,  the  passion  of  Christ  on  the  one,  and  the  good  and 
evil  qualities  of  the  heart  on  the  other. 

There  is  a  collection  of  the  portraits  of  all  the  vicars,  per- 
petual curates  and  ordained  school-teachers. 

The  parish  possesses  28  schools,  with  as  many  teachers. 

The  sacristy  contains  many  things  of  interest.  Let  me  men- 
tion some  things:  A  chasuble  and  a  censer  from  the  Roman 
Catholic  times;  several  embroidered  images,  the  wooden-chalice 
which  was  used  when  Gustavus  \"asa  had  appropriated  the 
church's  silver  to  pay  the  national  debt  to  the  Liibeckers;  the 
sword  with  which  the  monk  Nicolai  was  murdered;  the  sex- 
ton's scourge;  a  copy  of  Gustavus  Vasa's  Bible,  1641;  an  old 
book  from  the  beginning  of  the  i8th  century  about  Gustavus 
Vasa  in  Dalecarlia. 

398 


CHAPTER  XXVn. 

A  Sunday  in  Leksand. 

We  shall  never  forget  that  excellent  tourist-hotel  in  Rattvik. 
Everything  was  so  clean,  and  neat,  and  comfortable.  In  the  din- 
ing-room hung  various  tablets  of  inscription:  '"God  gives  food 
to  all  whom  he  has  given  a  mouth."  "By  the  clang  you  can 
judge  the  metal,  by  the  speech  the  man."  "Hunger  is  the  best 
cook."  "Put  good  food  in  your  mouth,  'twill  make  you  comely 
and  stout."     "Fresh  air  will  make  the  doctor  poor." 

Their  attempts  at  English  were  very  funny.  On  a  wall  in  the 
dining-room  was  the  following  announcement:  "Please  pay  con- 
sumption in  Dining-Room  ready." 

It  is  Sunday.  Already  at  half  past  seven  in  the  morning  we 
saw  an  old  woman  coming,  attired  in  the  regulation  Rattvik  cos- 
tume, on  her  way  to  church.  Just  fancy  how  early  she  must 
have  arisen.  But,  then,  she  scarcely  belonged  to  our  leisurely 
modern  style,  where  people  barely  get  dressed  in  time  for  high- 
mass,  which  begins  only  an  hour  before  noon. 

About  nine  we  embarked  on  the  "Gustaf  Vasa,"  so  as  to  ar- 
rive at  Leksand  in  time  for  the  morning  service.  It  was  a 
warm,  clear  and  peaceful  morning.  On  the  steamer  came  a  flock 
of  the  Salvation-Army,  who  were  to  hold  some  kind  of  a  meeting 
at  Rattvik.  It  seemed  quite  unnatural  to  see  these  "soldiers"  far 
up  in  Dalecarlia,  so  much  so,  that  the  secretary  of  the  English 
legation  expressed  his  great  surprise  at  this  unexpected  en- 
counter. 

This  diplomatist  secretary  was  a  particularly  pleasant  fellow- 
traveler.  He  had  lived  in  Rome  three  years,  and  had  been  in 
Russia  long  enough  to  learn  its  language.  He  had  found  in 
Finland  that  those  that  knew  the  Russian  language  v/ould  not 
even  use  it.     He  entertained  great  opinions  of  the  future  of  Si- 

399 


beria,  when  the  grand  railway  will  be  completed,  and  related  that 
there  existed  an  entire  large  mountain  of  silver,  which  then  would 
exercise  a  great  influence  upon,  the  markets  of  the  world,  which 
hitherto  had  treated  "the  white  metal"  so  harshly. 

On  his  father's  estate  in  England  the  farm-laborers  get  ten 
dollars  a  month  in  wages.  He  considered  that  the  manual  labor- 
ers in  America  obtained  too  high  wages,  while  the  civil-service 
men  receive  too  low.  The  public  offices  would  be  managed  far 
better  and  more  honestly,  if  the  salaries  were  larger,  an  opinion 
which  many  clear-headed  and  honest  Americans  hold  as  well. 

The  trip  was  delightful.  O,  that  we  more  frequently  could 
see  Siljan,  with  its  smiling  shores,  which  in  the  direction  of 
Rattvik  this  morning  looked  like  a  vast,  gigantic,  verdant  crazy- 
quilt,  that  the  Creator  had  spread  all  over  the  fertile  and  opulent 
parish. 

This  is  Leksand.  We  walk  leisurely  through  the  beautiful 
avenue  up  to  the  church.  The  service  has  already  begun,  and 
we  make  haste  up  to  the  gallery,  to  see  and  listen. 

What  an  encouraging  sight!  The  church  is  large,  holding, 
some  say  three,  others  five,  thousand  people.  In  whichever  case 
I  can  testify  that  a  huge  concourse  of  people  had  gathered  for 
the  high-mass  service  on  this  "the  transfiguration  of  Christ"  Sun- 
day, The  rector  of  the  church..  Dr.  Petersson,  was  in  the  pulpit 
and  delivered  a  good  Lutheran-Evangelical  sermon.  He  laid 
great  stress  on  a  correct  conception  and  a  right  use  of  the  means 
of  grace.  By  that  we  would  also  ascend  the  mount  of  transfigura- 
tion. No  Christian,  however,  ought  to  expect  to  remain  there 
always.  There  existed  also  a  spiritual  every -day  life.  The  road 
to  glory  leads  yet  to-day  through  trials.  The  moments  of  exulta- 
tion are  only  an  encouraging  counter-poise  against  our  labor  and 
sufferings.  A  Christian  ought  not  beforehand  or  intimately  to 
speak  of  his  spiritual  experience.  One  ought  not  to  talk  of  one's 
spiritual  experiences  to  any  one  indiscriminately,  but  on  the 
other  hand,  every  Christian  ought  to  confess  his  faith,  before 
everything  by  his  life  and  actions.  Finally  the  speaker  asked 
his  congregation  if  they  each  and  all  belonged  to  those  who 
had  seen  the  glory  of  the  Lord,  and  gladly  carried  their  burden 
of  sufferings  to  follow  Jesus?  After  the  termination  of  the  reg- 
ular service  there  was  general  communion  celebrated  at  the  altar. 
The  singing  of  the  congregation  w'as  powerfully  impressive.  The 
church  has  five  vaults.     The  air  was  warm  and  suffocating  inside, 

400 


VISBY:      1.      HOGKLINT  OK  BLUFF.      2.      NORTH   lUNG   WALL.      3.      DITTO. 


VIEWS  OF  OEFLE. 


i 


because  no  windows  were  open.  People  did  not  seem  to  require 
fresh  air  in  Sweden  in  the  same  degree  as  in  America,  and  I 
laughed  heartily,  time  and  again,  at  how  they  were  afraid  of 
draft.  It  was  in  the  very  height  of  the  hay-making  season.  This 
and  the  heat  combined  caused  quite  a  number  of  the  old  men  in 
their  seats  to  be  nodding  their  assent  to  what  Dr.  Petersson 
was  saying.  They  tried  their  very  best  to  keep  awake,  but  many 
of  them,  nevertheless,  did  not  succeed.  How  interesting  they 
looked,  those  old  men  of  Leksand.  The  benches  in  the  gallery 
were  old-fashioned  and  uncomfortable,  but  down  in  the  church, 
on  the  contrary,  they  were  comfortable.  Hundreds  of  women, 
young  and  old,  were  attired  in  their  national  costume,  know'n  all 
over  the  world.  It  was  a  sight  which  no  stranger  present  could 
forget.  An  unusual  number  of  infants  were  present  in  the 
church,  of  whom  some  had  to  be  treated  to  candy,  or  milk,  or 
other  goodies  brought  in  bottles.  A  few  strangers  were  seated 
down  in  the  church.  A  tourist  was  impudent  enough  to  walk 
about  in  the  church  during  the  sermon,  to  inspect  the  place.  By 
his  appearance  it  was  evident  he  was  a  Swede.  Such  tourists 
ought  simply  to  be  turned  out  with  the  assistance  of  the  beadle's 
scourge,  if  need  be.  No  traveler  has  a  right  to  disturb  the  peo- 
ple's worship,  to  satisfy  their  own  curiosity. 

After  the  sermon  the  bans  were  published;  and  five  announce- 
ments of  deaths  in  the  parish,  after  each  of  which  latter  the 
preacher  read  a  verse  from  some  hymn  suitable  for  the  occasion. 

In  the  gallery  were  several  tree-branches  arranged  to  hang 
hats  on. 

The  clergymen  who  recited  tiie  liturgy  were  attired  in  crimson 
chasubles. 

The  motto  on  the  pulpit  was:  "Soli  Deo  Gloria."  In  the 
chancel:  "Faith,  Hope  and  Love."  The  vaults  are  handsome. 
The  acoustics  excellent.  The  pipe-organ  is  fine,  and  a  particu- 
larly beautiful  piece  was  played  as  the  congregation  left. 

On  a  tablet  is  inscribed  the  oration  by  Oscar  II.  on  the  15th  of 
August,  1875. 

On  the  roof  is  seen  a  large  image  of  St.  Peter  with  the  keys. 

What  a  sight  when  this  concourse  of  people  came  out  on  the 
hilly  church-ground.  Happy,  joyous  and  frank  they  all  seemed. 
All  honor  to  the  people  of  Leksand,  who  so  diligently  frequent 
their  public  worship  in  their  large  and  beautiful  church,  like 
their  forefathers  used  to  do  of  yore. 

405 


After  the  service  we  met  Dr.  Petersson,  who  greeted  us  in  a 
very  friendly  manner.  After  that  we  walked  about  for  a  little 
while  in  the  church-yard.  I  wished  to  visit  the  grave  of  Liss 
Olof  Larsson,  and  asked  a  rustic  about  the  w^y.  He  kindly  ac- 
companied us,  but  didn't  quite  know  himself  where  the  gi-ave 
was.  "We  will  ask  mother,  there."  Well,  that  we  did.  "Sure 
I  know;  here  it  is."  I  thought  the  olding  looked  more  interested 
than  could  be  expected,  and  I  asked  her  gently  if  she  perhaps 
had  personally  known  the  congressman.  "Sure  I  did;  I  am  his- 
mother."  I  was  surprised.  She  walked  so  erect,  and  looked  so 
active,  the  old  dame.  Could  she  really  have  been  the  mother  of 
the  famous  member  of  the  diet?  Yet,  she  was,  and  she  had  al- 
ready completed  her  four  score  and  four  years,  "but,"  she  said, 
"it  is  an  easy  thing  to  live,  and  an  easy  thing  to  die,  too,  if  God 
only  dwells  in  our  heart."  I  then  inquired:  "Are  there  many 
in  Leksand  that  feel  likewise?"  "Yes,  sure,  many  of  them, 
though  the  spirit  of  our  worldly  times  tries  to  jostle  with  the  spirit 
of  God." 

Never  shall  we  forget  those  brief  moments  at  the  grave  of 
Liss  Olof  Larsson.  A  little  bit  further  away  rests  his  father,  Liss 
Lars  Olsson,  also  a  famous  congressman  in  his  time. 

On  our  return  from  Rattvik  we  saw  several  of  those  long 
church-boats.  In  was  really  a  pretty  sight.  How  picturesque 
did  not  the  rustic  maidens  look  when  they,  with  steady,  measured 
strokes,  plied  the  oars!  They  are  familiarly  called  "kullor"  in 
the  vernacular. 

God  bless  old  Leksand! 


406 


CHAPTER  XXVin. 

A  Trip  to  Falun,  Gefle  and  Elfkarleby. 

From  Rattvik  we  traveled  via  Slattberg,  S^gniyra,  Grycksbo 
and  Bergsgiirden  to  Falun,  where  we  were  very  near  not  ob- 
taining any  room,  for  the  hotels  were  all  so  crowded  with  visi- 
tors. It  was  the  first  day  when  they  were  lawfully  permitted 
to  eat  craw-fish,  and  the  crowd  in  the  dining  room  was  therefore 
so  great  that  we  had  to  wait  surely  a  full  hour  before  our  turn 
came.  All  this  gave  us  the  impression  from  the  very  beginning 
that  Falun  is  a  lively  business  place,  which  by  no  means  has 
been  stunted  in  its  growth. 

We  viewed  first  of  all  the  old  church.  On  the  church  doors 
we  read,  "Balzer  Hansson,  Karin  Larsdotter.  Come,  let  us  de- 
light in  the  Lord  and  rejoice  in  the  consolation  of  our  eternal 
bliss.  1670."  The  church  was  erected  in  1640.  The  altar-piece 
bears  the  date  of  1669.  The  fane  has  three  naves,  and  was  inau- 
gurated, 1659,  by  "Master  Per."  The  pulpit  has  a  number  of  old 
wood-carvings,  and  rests  on  a  caryatide.  A  colossal  altar-vessel 
is  extant.  Gustavus  III.  sat  year  1768  on  a  chair  which  is 
shown  in  the  sacristy,  where  there  is  also  portraits  of  former  vi- 
cars, and  a  choir-robe,  etc.,  from  the  Catholic  times.  The  church 
is  said  to  hold  two  thousand  people,  and  is  warmed  by  means  of 
four  large  stoves. 

Our  Englishman  descended  into  the  world-renowned  copper 
mine,  but  your  humble  servant  did  not  do  so.  After  an  experi- 
ence some  few  years  ago  in  one  of  the  Colorado  gold  mines,  I 
prefer  to  remain  above  earth,  and  allow  others  to  relate  to  me 
how  it  looks  below.  Mr.  Duff  liked  his  experience  well  enough, 
but  said  on  his  return,  that  perhaps  I  had  done  best,  as  no  descent 
was  undertaken  by  me. 

Together  we  afterward  visited  the  large  museum  belonging 

407 


to  the  company,  and  which  is  most  unusually  interesting^.  This 
company  is  the  oldest  industrial  combination  in  the  whole  world. 
The  collection  of  models  was  begun  by  Polhem  towards  the  end 
of  the  eighteenth  century,  and  is  one  of  the  earliest  collections  of 
that  kind  that  is  known.  The  company's  exhibit  and  pavilion  at 
the  Exposition  in  Stockholm,  attracted  much  and  well-merited  at- 
tention. Here  is  the  numismatical  collection.  There  were  plenty 
of  the  "nominal  tokens"  which  last  year  so  much  annoyed  and 
damaged  the  free-silver  party  in  America.  We  saw  also  splendid 
specimens  of  the  honest  copper  coins.  One  of  these,  value 
stamped  thereon:  "8  Daler  Silver-coin,"  was  about  two  feet  long, 
and  one  foot  wide. 

Among  specimens  of  metal,  we  saw  also  nuggets  of  gold  ore. 

Here  and  there  were  interesting  inscriptions.  Here  is  one: 
"The  country  follows  a  faithful,  well-beloved  ruler." 

An  enormous  pine  tree,  335  years  old,  describes  itself  in  the 
following  manner: 

'T  was  on  V&ngberg's  Djura-wold 
Among  my  brother  pine-trees  old 
The  greatest,  and  was  therefore  slain; 
From  root  of  nineteen  feet  was  ta'en." 

In  one  room  was  a  great  collection  of  the  ancient  company's 
account  books.  They  date  all  the  way  back  to  1347.  The  mine 
is  mentioned  already  1288. 

Afterwards  we  strolled  through  the  beautiful  birch  avenue 
along  the  railroad.  Both  in  Falun  and  in  Gefle  there  are,  namely, 
exceedingly  beautiful  avenues  along  the  railways.  This  is  an 
excellent  device.  Why  do  not  the  railroad  companies  of  the 
American  prairie  states  plant  trees  and  hedges,  and  why  do  we 
not  find  the  Falun  and  Gefle  railroad  avenues  in  our  American 
small  towns  and  villages? 

As  we  have  said,  after  viewing  the  city  we  strolled  in  this 
cool  and  shady  avenue,  and  soon  sat  down  to  rest  on  one  of  the 
many  commodious  seats,  for,  namely,  it  was  warm  in  Falun  last 
summer.  A  few  days  before  our  visit  the  thermometer  showed 
39  degrees  Celsus  in  the  shade,  which  is  equal  to  102  degrees 
Fahrenheit. 

Let  us  then  chat  with  one  another  about  the  great,  old 
mine,  a  little  while.       It  lies  1.3  km.  west  of  the  town.       One 

408 


descends  into  the  shaft  of  Adolf  Frcdrik  300  meters,  and  after- 
wards further  60  meters  on  ladders.  The  greatest  depth  is  said 
to  be  400  meters,  which  make  about  1,300  feet.  The  mine  con- 
tains about  3,000  separate  caves,  among  which  many  are  named 
after  royal  personages.  The  length  of  galleries  and  districts  was 
33  km.  before  the  caveing-in  in  1876.  The  mine  has  yielded  about 
five  hundred  millions  kilogram  of  copper.  The  yearly  production 
at  present  consists  of  400  tons  copper,  300  kilogram  silver,  and 
90-100  kilogram  gold. 

From  Falun  we  traveled  to  Gefle  via  Korsnas,  Korsin,  Ho- 
fors,  Storvik,  Kungsgarden  (King's  manor),  Sandviken  and  Fors- 
backa. 

Gefle  is  a  considerable  city,  new-built  and  handsome.  "Gefle" 
is  derived  from  gafTel  (fork).  This  city  is  the  largest  and  oldest 
in  Northern  Sweden,  and  is  mentioned  in  the  fifteenth  century. 
Despatched  already  1599  sixteen  vessels  to  foreign  ports.  In  1869 
the  city  was  destroyed  by  fire,  but  has  arisen  from  its  ruins  in 
rejuvinated  and  beautiful  form.     The  population  is  25,200. 

The  public  buildings  are  handsome  and  attractive.  The  city 
possesses  many  open  places,  wide  streets  and  boulevards,  and 
several  splendid  office  buildings,  but  did  not  appear  to  me  to 
be  quite  so  well  kept  generally  as  Sundsvall. 

The  largest  business  building  was  the  so-called  Palace,  in 
which  Rev.  Waldenstrom  has  some  shares,  and  where  some  of 
the  stores  were  let  for  saloons  and  billiard  halls.  The  reverend 
gentleman  experienced  much  unpleasantness  on  this  account,  but 
if  he  owned  only  some  of  the  shares  in  the  company  how  could 
he  prevent  the  occurrence?  If,  on  the  contrary,  he  possessed  the 
majority  of  the  shares,  or  the  entire  building,  his  position  would 
be  quite  different. 

The  church  is  large  and  old,  well  restored  and  screwed  to- 
gether by  means  of  great  iron  beams.  Not  to  be  wondered  at 
for  the  aforesaid  unorthodox  Rev.  P.  Waldenstrom  lives  quite 
close  by  in  No.  7  New  Street,  where  a  bread  store  constitutes  the 
foundation.  The  park,  near  the  church,  was  exceedingly  beau- 
tiful and  cool. 

In  front  of  the  Governor's  residence  stands  a  tall  iron  gate, 
whose  history  is  thus  recounted  by  itself:  "These  iron  bars, 
constructed  into  a  gate  for  the  court  yard  of  the  Royal  Castle 
of  Gefle,  have,  from  sheer  generosity,  been  presented  and  do- 
nated by  the  iron  masters  of  this  province  as  an  ornament  to  this 

409 


castle  and  this  city,  and  they  have  requested  me,  Baron  Fredr. 
Sparre,  Governor  at  that  time,  to  have  it  made  and  erected,  which 
latter  took  place  August  29,  1701." 

On  a  house  near  the  Bethlehem  Church  we  read:  "Think  of 
the  final  end,  and  thou  wilt  never  do  evil." 

The  Bethlehem  Chapel,  which  is  the  church  of  the  followers 
of  P.  Waldenstrom,  is  a  large  and  handsome  building.  We  de- 
plore, how^ever,  that  the  red  color  is  gradually  falling  ofif,  so  that 
the  edifice  looks  somewhat  dilapidated.  But  only  the  red  color 
of  the  blood  of  Christ  is  retained  in  the  sermons,  it  will,  however, 
pass  muster.  The  stairways  were  unpainted  and  ugly,  but  the 
symbolic  architecture  was  exceedingly  striking.  The  interior 
arrangements  are  practical  and  convenient. 

In  front  of  section  V  of  No.  18  Iceland  Street,  I  stopped,  joy- 
ful and  grateful,  and  yet  wdthal,  not  a  little  aggravated.  There 
lives  the  renowned  and  beloved  Lector  N.  P.  Odman,  whose  writ- 
ings have  afforded  many  a  Swedish-American  hours  of  happy  en- 
joyment. But  the  Poet-Lector  was  not  at  home,  and  it  was  a 
great  and  irreparable  loss  to  me.  But  thus  it  is.  Nobody  is 
found  at  home  in  Sweden  during  summer  time.  That  seems  to 
be  the  rule.  It  is  good,  too,  that  those  who  so  well  need  a  few 
weeks'  rest  can  obtain  it  in  some  country. 

Nowhere  in  Sweden  did  I  see  so  much  drunkenness  as  in 
Gefle.  On  the  train  a  half-tipsy  "gentleman"  would  even  pay 
for  his  ticket  over  again,  wdiich,  however,  he  had  dropped  on  the 
floor.  Active,  energetic  and  Christian  temperance  work  is  in- 
deed needed  in  this  hustling  business  city. 

Now  we  are  again  traveling  in  the  direction  of  Upsala  and 
Stockholm. 

We  have  soon  arrived  at  Skutskar,  which  is  reputed  to  be 
the  largest  saw-mill  business  in  the  world.  This  embraces  28 
saw-mills,  which  belong  to  Stora  Kopparbergs-bolaget  (that  is  the 
company  of  the  great  copper  mountain  district).  At  Harnas  and 
Skutskar  large  export  business  is  carried  on. 

We  stopped  during  the  ilight  in  Elfkarleby  to  view  the  beau- 
tiful water-falls.  We  had  spoken  English  on  the  train.  A  couple 
of  ladies  in  the  same  compartment  alighted  also  at  the  same  sta- 
tion. We  overheard  them  saying:  "Now  we'll  make  haste  so 
that  those  Englishmen  won't  engage  the  rooms  before  us."  Aye, 
aye,  the  human  heart  is  ever  the  same!  But  the  two  English- 
men, Tengvald  and  myself,  had  telegraphed  beforehand,  so  that 

410 


we  did  not  need  to  be  in  a  great  hurry.  But  you  should  only 
have  seen  those  ladies,  my  friends,  how  they  hurried,  and  we 
were  wicked  enough  to  walk  very  fast,  just  to  make  them  a  bit 
nervous. 


411 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

Two  Beautiful  Rivers  in  Norrland. 

We  certainly  had  to  change  our  plan  because  of  the  monopoly 
His  Siamese  Majesty  has  acquired  of  the  steamers  up  in  Xorr- 
land,  but  our  determination  to  see  these  famous  rivers  could  not 
be  altered.  And  that  was  well,  for  their  scenery  is  most  de- 
cidedly typical  of  Xorrland,  and  that  was  just  what  we  wanted  to 
see. 

Consequently  we  departed  July  14  with  the  large  and  beau- 
tiful steamer  "Xordstjernan"  (North-star)  for  Sundsvall.  "Nord- 
stjernan"  is  perhaps  the  most  splendid  passenger-steamer  Sweden 
possesses,  and  is  justly  entitled  to  the  pride  all  Xorrlanders  take 
in  her.  She  goes  speedily  and  safely,  but  is  said  not  always  to 
care  if  any  one  else  is  in  her  way. 

During  pleasant  conversation  we  soon  reached  Sundsvall. 
From  there  we  went  at  6  o'clock  the  following  morning  with 
"Turisten"  up  the  Indal  river,  the  most  characteristically  north- 
ern river  imaginable. 

The  goal  for  the  trip  of  the  day  was  the  Bishop's  manor,  and 
the  distance  was  124  km. 

"What  is  meant  by  meter  and  kilometer?"  I  hear  my  readers 
inquire  for  the  tenth  time.  Allow  me  then,  while  we  shake  off 
sleep  this  morning  to  give  you  all  a  lesson  in  these  things,  so 
that  you,  ladies  and  gentlemen,  may  have  no  unnecessary  trouble 
during  your  trip  to  Europe  in  the  year  1900,  for  who  will  then 
remain  in  American  all  the  year? 

I  meter=3.368i  feet;  i  kilometer  (which  abbreviated  is  written 
km.)  is  equal  to  0.62137  English  mile,  or  in  Swedish  decimal 
measure  3.369.09  feet.  10  kilometers  are  in  Sweden  called  i  new- 
mile,  which  is  equal  to  33,680.9  feet  (11  kilometers  are  in  the 
nearest  equal  to  one  old  Swedish  mile). 

412 


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1.      THE   >TL-DENTS    AVENUE. 
3.      THE   BLRMEISTEU   HOU 


OLOF. 


I 


I  quadrat-meter  is  equal  to  1,196  square  yards,  or  in  Swedish 
measnre  11  square-feet,  34  square  decimal  inches;  100  as  are 
called  I  hektar  (har.).  It  corresponds  to  2,471  acres,  or  2  tunn- 
land,  I  kappland  Swedish  measure. 

I  liter  (i)  corresponds  to  0.908  quart  (solid  matter),  or  1.0567 
quart  (liquid  matter)  or  in  Swedish  measure  38  cubic  inches,  or 
three-quarters  of  one  kanna;  100  liter  is  called  i  hektoliter  (hi.), 
which  corresponds  to  2,837  bushels,  or  26.4175  gallons,  or  in 
Swedish  measure  38  kannor,  or  22  kappar  of  one  tunna  (loose 
measure),  38  kannor  21  cubic  inches. 

I  gram  (g)  are  equal  to  15.432  grains  troy,  or  0.3527  ounces 
troy,  or  in  Swedish  weight,  24  korn. 

I  kilogram  (kg.)  or  kilo  contains  1,000  grams,  and  corre- 
sponds to  2.6792  pounds  troy,  or  2.2046  pounds  avoir.,  or  in 
Swedish  weight  2  skalpund,  35  ort,  or  2  skalpund  ii  lod  i.i 
quintin;  100  kilograms  is  called  i  quintal  (q.),  which  is  equal  to 
220.46  pounds  avoir.,  or  11  lispund  15  skalpund  8  lod;  10  quintals 
are  called  a  (meter)  ton,  which  is  equal  to  1.1023  American  tons 
or  5  skeppund   17  lispund  12  skalpund  Swedish  weight. 

Xow,  then,  we  can  with  pleasure  continue  our  trip,  for  now 
we  know  what  is  meant  by  "meter,"  "kilometer,"  etc.  It  would 
be  wxll  if  all  the  world  could  agree  in  all  this,  and  the  tendency  is 
gradually  towards  that  goal. 

Well,  now  we  are  on  board  "Turisten,"  and  immediately  ob- 
serve a  number  of  flags,  escutcheons,  etc.,  with  which  the  steam- 
boat company  intends  to  decorate  the  shores  where  the  colored 
Majesty  a  few  days  afterwards  will  steam  past.  That  extra  num- 
ber on  the  programme  will  cost  the  company  about  400  of  the 
1,050  kronor  which  they  are  said  to  receive  for  the  day. 

We  find  ourselves  immediately  amongst  a  number  of  saw- 
mills, both  large  and  small  ones.  Such  a  sight  we  had  never 
before  witnessed.  Xo  wonder  that  the  humorous  poet,  Elias  Sehl- 
stedt,  on  seeing  the  Alno  sound  sang:  ''And  saw  after  saw  I 
saw  wherever  I  saw." 

Besides  all  the  saw-mills  that  we  saw  we  also  saw  the  churches 
of  Skon,  Alno  and  Timra.  We  would  much  have  liked  to 
have  gone  to  Skon,  for  anyone  who  has  ever  been  there  longs 
to  get  back  again,  both  for  the  sake  of  Skon  itself,  but  still  more 
so  for  the  sake  of  those  that  dwell  there. 

But  now  we  were  to  look  particularly  at  these  many  saw- 
mills.      I  must    mention    Skonvik  and  Vista  wharf,  the    latter 

415 


founded  already  in  the  year  1796,  to  provide  work  for  the  neces- 
sitous people  th.at  suffered  on  account  of  the  leveling  of  the 
Ragunda  lake.  But  now  I  feel  compelled  to  explain  what  that 
means,  which  I  had  not  intended  to  do  before  we  early  to-morrow 
morning  reached  "the  Dead  Falls."  It  cannot  hurt,  how-ever, 
to  know  something  about  it  already  beforehand.  On  the  railroad 
between  the  Bishop's  manor  and  Ragunda  one  meets  with  most 
wonderful  scenery.  The  excellent  Tourist  Society  says  of  it  as 
follows : 

"Here  terminated  at  one  time  the  Ragunda  lake,  whose  shore- 
lines still  indicate  a  lengthy  basin  of  about  27  km.,  and  here  at  the 
flow  of  the  lake  into  the  Indal  river  the  water  rushed  down  the 
38  meter  high  falls,  which  was  called  Storforsen  (Grand  Rapids) 
or  Gedungsen,  and  whirled  down  Edsforsen,  1,200  m.  long,  in 
a  rocky,  narrow  channel.  When  to  this  was  added  that  it  made 
an  angle,  the  log-floating  became  considerably  difficult,  so  that 
even  large  lumber-beams  broke,  or  were  damaged.  They  had  a 
long  time  proposed  to  make  the  river  navigable,  or  at  least  ser- 
viceable for  floating,  and  at  the  same  time  providing  a  conduit  for 
the  salmon,  but  the  death  of  Charles  XII.  was  destined  to  extend 
its  palsying  influence  even  to  these  plans.  Yet  the  idea  sur- 
vived. Finally,  in  the  midst  of  the  last  decade  of  the  i8th  century, 
a  few  of  the  Ragunda  people  (under  the  leadership  of  one  cer- 
tain Huss,  generally  called  Wild-Huss,  on  account  of  his  bold 
enterprises),  began  to  dig  for  a  floating  channel  through  the 
obstructing  river-bank,  somewhat  above  the  present  railway 
bridge.  Then  came  the  spring-freshet  of  1796,  and  settled  the 
matter.  The  sand-bank  gave  way,  and  the  water  broke  with  irre- 
sistible force  its  new  and  southern  course  through  the  sylvan 
dell,  along  a  stretch  of  about  3  kilometers.  The  Gedungsen  died 
away  in  silence,  and  by  the  side  of  the  church  leaped  into  life 
the  roaring  Hammerfors  rapids.  The  bottom  of  Ragunda  lake 
was  laid  bare  after  four  hours.  Along  the  Indal  river  (which 
on  the  occasion  rose  9  meters  above  its  usual  level),  whirled  trees, 
flour-mills,  bridges  and  crafts  in  wild  destruction,  without,  how- 
ever, any  person  being  hurt  by  the  overwhelming  means  in  the 
service  of  improvement.  In  the  weirdly  beautiful  "Dead  Falls" 
the  philosopher  has  an  excellent  theme  for  contemplation.  There 
speak  more  than  thirty  great  and  little  dine-holes  in  silent  elo- 
quence. Many  traditions  about  the  falls  still  remain  among  the 
people." 

416 


But  as  yet  we  are  still  among  tlie  numerous  saw-mills,  where 
I  saw  women  load  planks,  and  afterwards  beheld  planks  that 
loaded  themselves,  or  nicely  placed  themselves  in  order  in  the 
lumber-piles.  Here  are  saw-mills  that  cost  nearly  a  million 
kronor,  lumber-barons  who  live  in  palaces,  and  pay  taxes  on  an 
income  of  a  million  kronor,  managers  who  draw  a  salary  of 
50,000  kr.,  companies  who  each  own  three  quarter  of  a  million 
acres  of  forest,  and  many  other  such  things  over  which  a  stranger 
feels  astonished.  I  felt  delighted  also  to  learn  that  one  of  the 
companies  gives  pensions  to  faithful,  aged  servants.  We  learned 
this  from  the  son  of  one  of  tliesc  pensioners.  Conmion  laborers 
were  stated  to  be  able  to  earn  from  5  to  6  kronor  per  day  by 
contract  work.  No  one  is  allowed  to  view  these  saw-mills  with- 
out special  permission. 

We  remember  especially  the  imposing  Vista-wharf,  which 
possesses  its  own  fire-engine  station,  which  was  said  to  cost  30,000 
kronor,  and  whose  owners  spent  40,000  kronor  to  worthily  re- 
ceive the  King.  The  shores  were  on  that  occasion  lit  up  by 
electric  lights  all  the  way  from  Sundsvall,  a  distance  of  about 
ten  English  miles.  They  are  not  niggard  up  yonder  in  Xorr- 
land,  that  one  may  rely  upon. 

But  we  must  make  haste.  At  the  assorting-bars  at  Bage  there 
are  annually  fenced  in  between  two  and  three  million  logs.  At 
8:45  a.  m.  we  have  already  reached  Bergforsen  (Mountain-rapids) 
where  we  exchange  "Turisten"  against  "Indalen."  The  weather 
was  fine,  the  landscape  beautiful,  and  our  spirits  the  very  best. 
The  famous  Norrland  appetite,  which  is  able  to  put  new  life  even 
in  an  American,  had  accompanied  us  even  hither,  which  was 
plainly  evident  both  in  ourselves  and  others.  It  is  caused  by 
the  invigorating  climate  and  pure  air. 

The  river  had  plenty  of  floating  logs.  Sometimes  our  little 
steamer  knocked  against  them  in  real  earnest,  and  persistingly. 
too.  The  helms-man  with  the  enormous  whiskers,  however,  re- 
mained calmly  at  his  post.  The  river  becomes  more  and  more 
characteristic  of  Norrland.  Look,  yonder  lies  the  beautiful 
Rosas-mountain,  from  1,000  to  1,200  feet  high.  The  shores  close 
nearer  upon  us.  Nature  becomes  more  rugged.  The  river 
grows  shallower  and  more  rapid,  and  the  current  channel  deeper. 
It  is  the  sombrous  beauty  or  the  beautiful  sombrousness  of  the 
Northlands,  that  meet  us  everywhere. 

The  boat  advances  slowly,  and  we  have  plenty  of  time  to  talk 
a  little. 

417 


Nay,  but  look,  there  is  our  respected  friend  from  Vestana, 
Superintendent  Gyllenhammar.  He  and  the  captain  were  old  ac- 
quaintances and  soon  were  at  it  hammer  and  tongs.  The  captain, 
who  was  a  stalwart  man,  began  as  a  "salt"  in  1855,  continued 
for  nineteen  years,  knew  America  well,  .was  a  royalist  and  con- 
servative, and  a  determined  royalist,  too,  and  maintained  that 
the  majority  in  Sweden  were  that,  also,  over  which  no  tourist 
is  at  all  surprised,  and  added,  that  he  did  not  believe  in  "the 
rotten  American  universal  suffrage." 

That  sea-captain  ought  to  have  a  medal  for  his  Norrlandish 
patriotism.  He  held  the  most  enthusiastic  opinion  of  the  pos- 
sibilities of  agriculture  in  Norrland,  for  "here  it  grows  both  night 
and  day."  He  related  a  funny  story  about  a  purse-proud  con- 
gress-man from  Skane,  who,  during  a  trip,  asked  him:  "Cap- 
tain, is  this  what  you  call  beautiful?  I  can  see  nothing  but  shrubs 
and  clifTs.  You  should  only  see  our  plains  in  Skane.  Tell  me, 
captain,  on  what  do  the  people  live  here?"  The  captain  got  mad, 
and  replied  snappishly,  but  three  weeks  afterwards  he  again  met 
the  congress-man,  and  this  latter  \vas  now  perfectly  enraptured 
with  Norrland,  for  now  he  knew  "on  what  the  people  lived  here." 
Namely,  he  had  seen  ears  of  rye  which  yielded  80  fold,  and,  be- 
sides, he  had  wandered  about  in  clover  that  reached  up  to  his 
arms,  and  knew  that  one  barrel  of  barley  could  yield  forty  in 
return.     "Such  harvests  we  haven't  got  in  Skine." 

Of  the  superintendent  we  obtained  much  interesting  and  valu- 
able information  In  his  own  experience  5^  barrels  of  rye  had 
yielded  158,  seven  years  ago.  Rector  Videll  had  from  one  ob- 
tained forty.  For  fifteen  years  the  rye-harvest  had  on  an  average 
not  yielded  less  than  eighteen  fold. 

The  farming  of  the  land  is  divided  into  periods  of  seven  years; 
during  four  years  the  iiclds  are  cultivated  with  cereals,  and  the 
three  following  they  yield  hay  harvests.  By  that  thev  are  strength- 
ened and  rejuvinated.  When  will  the  western  farmers  in  our 
prodigious  Amreica  learn  wisdom  from  their  brethren  in  other 
countries? 

The  butter  from  Vestana  now  fetched  80  to  85  ore  per  pound. 

Our  boat  was  obliging.  She  called  anywhere  they  desired. 
Just  now  we  lay  close  to  the  barren  shore  to  allow  a  drummer 
to  embark  with  his  trunk;  he  travels  in  shoes.  Look!  there  are 
a  number  of  children  who  are  selling  wild  strawberries.  They 
wade  into  the  water  to  reach  their  object.  .  O,  you  dear,  little 

418 


youngster,  who  is  standing  there  in  the  water  far  up  on  your 
legs,  what  a  picture  you  are!     May  fortune  ever  befriend  thee! 

Now  I  placed  myself  at  the  prow,  and  always  observed  in 
the  spray  of  the  water  a  bit  of  the  rainbow. 

Now  vi^e  have  already  passed  the  Hallsta  mount,  700  feet 
high,  and  two  other  mountains  so  exactly  alike  that  they  ought 
tobe  called  the  twin  mountains. 

The  dinner  table  was  spread  on  deck.  What  a  magnificent 
dining-room.  Salmon  and  wild  strawberries  were  the  principal 
dishes  for  us  Americans.  One  doesn't  know  how  salmon  reallv 
tastes  until  one  has  had  it  prepared  in  Norrland.  They  talk  about 
Halmstad  salmon  as  being  the  finest.  Anyone  who  likes  is  wel- 
come to  believe  it,  but  before  that  he  ought,  anyhow,  to  eat  sal- 
mon and  wild  strawberries  on  board  "Indalen"  as  we  did. 

We  saw  the  Church  of  Liden  at  i  :40.  At  2  o'clock  we  had 
beheld  the  astounding  log-chute,  in  which  the  logs  dart  down 
with  tremendous  velocity  from  the  heights  above,  and  heed- 
lessly are  flung  into  the  river,  presenting  a  wonderful  spectacle. 

Still  another  boat.  She  is  small  and  peculiar,  built  specially 
for  this  water  course.  The  screw  lies  like  in  a  gutter,  so  that 
it  does  not  reach  further  down  than  the  bottom  of  the  boat,  and 
by  that  is  protected  from  logs  and  stones  in  the  boiling  and  fre- 
quently shallow  river. 

We  continue  the  trip.  What  lovely  shores!  They  now  rise 
higher,  particularly  to  the  left,  where  they  form  beautiful  ter- 
races, intermingledly  attired  in  the  dark  vesture  of  the  pine  and 
spruce  firs  and  verdant  foliage. 

That  river!  Now  it  is  broad  and  placid  like  other  orderly 
rivers,  but  in  a  few  minutes  it  diminishes  until  it  grows  as  narrow 
as  the  waist  of  the  dolls  of  fashion  of  former  times.  But  it  re- 
pents immediately,  becomes  anew  what  it  was  before;  rages  with 
fury  in  roaring  torrents,  smiles  like  a  maiden  of  sixteen  in  the 
most  calmly  mirroring  waters,  gains  courage,  and  becomes  like 
others,  content  with  the  everyday  prose  of  low  shores.  Nay.  be 
once  more  yourself!     Remain  what  you  really  are.     Thanks! 

My  friends,  observe  these  mountain  peaks,  kissed  by  the  sun, 
this  glorious,  enchanting  verdure,  which  remind  us  both  of 
winter  and  spring  at  the  same  time,  these  fir  trees  and  birches, 
which  in  loving  harmony  heighten  each  other's  charms,  form- 
ing a  frame  to  one  another,  as  beautiful  as  the  picture  itself. 

Now  we  have  arrived  at  Sillre  rapids  and  its  steep  forest- 

419 


clad  banks.  Here  the  boat  stopped,  and  in  company  with  the 
pleasant  captain  we  stepped  on  shore,  and  viewed  the  beautiful 
Bratta  falls,  far  up  in  the  forest.  The  path  was  toilsome  for  the 
American,  but  the  views  uncommonly  beautiful.  The  cataract 
consisted  of  two  particularly  handsome  falls.  On  a  gigantic  rock 
along  the  road  we  observed  growing  pine,  fir,  ferns,  birch,  grass 
of  various  kinds,  red  whortleberries,  huckleberries,  moss — all  evi- 
dence of  the  wonderful  productivity  of  Norrland,  for  if  there  can 
grow  so  many  things  on  a  rock,  what  ought  they  not  then  to  be 
able  to  grow  on  its  fertile  s6il? 

Lo,  there  is  tall  pine  and  fir  which  have  grown  together  so  as 
to  form  but  one  tree. 

Now  on  board  again.  Then  we  chatted  again  for  a  while. 
We  met  a  young  Mr.  Nordberg,  on  his  way  to  Utanede  to  deco- 
rate there  and  elsewhere  for  the  Siamese  King.  He  was  well- 
informed,  and  pleasantly  communicative.  From  him  we  learned 
that  Sweden  possesses  great  "railway  factories,"  such  as 
Kockum's  in  Mamo,  Atlas  in  Stockholm,  Sodertelje  factory,  and 
a  large  shop  for  repairs  in  Gothenburg.  The  price  of  a  fine 
passenger  car  is  about  30,000  kroner. 

Then  we  met  merchant  Ostling,  from  Ljusdal,  and  the  Swed- 
ish-American civil  engineer,  J.  B.  Nilsson,  from  the  Carnegie 
works,  in  Pennsylvania.  The  latter  traveled  in  company  with  his 
sister.  I  recognized  the  American  by  his  shoes,  and  he  me  by 
my  "alligator"  traveling  bag. 

At  7:50  we  saw  the  clearing  in  the  forest,  20  feet  wide,  which 
constitutes  the  Jiimtland  boundary. 

Now  the  boat  stands  almost  still  in  the  rapid  current.  The 
shores  close  in  upon  us.  Look  how  high  they  are?  I  feel  so 
happy  and  delighted.  This  is  Norrland!  What  could  I  possibly 
add  that  would  strengthen  that  expression! 

We  will  presently  arrive  at  Utanede.  Look,  a  large  timber 
raft  is  coming  down  the  rapids  above.  Some  doughty  Norriand- 
ers  steer  it  in  the  current,  which  has  a  velocity  of  thirty  miles  an 
hour.    It  is  a  very  striking  sight. 

By  post-horses  to  the  Bishop's  manor.  The  road  was  exceed- 
ingly beautiful,  with  many  exquisitely  fine  views  of  the  river  Dale. 
We  argued  about  Sweden  and  America,  but  what  was  said  must 
remain  between  ourselves  at  present. 

After  we  had  obtained  a  fine  room  at  the  hotel,  and  had  our 

420 


supper,  we  visited  "Niporna"  in  the  neighborhood,  whicii  pos- 
sesses uncommon  and  rarely  equalled  views  in  all  directions. 

The  next  day  we  visited  the  Dead  Falls  and  its  neighborhood, 
and  thereafter  continued  our  journey  to  Solleflea  and  Hernosand. 

Who  can  describe  those  indescribable  formations,  and  that  in 
many  respects  unequalled  landscape  which  we  admire  here?  One 
of  the  "dine-holes"  is  3  feet  in  diameter  and  7  feet  4  inches  deep. 
The  water  has  excavated  this.  Perfectly  astounded  we  strolled 
about  with  Mr.  and  Miss  Nilsson,  viewing  the  wonderful  sight. 

On  a  rock  we  read: 

Oscar,  25  August,  1890. 
Gustaf,  31  July,  1894. 
Therese,    18  July,  1892. 

The  train  comes,  and  we  have  soon  reached  Solleftea,  from 
whence  we  travel  by  rail  toward  Hernosand.  The  entire  railwav 
journey  is  beautiful  and  interesting.  From  Solleftea  the  road 
goes  alongside  Sweden's  grandest  river,  Angermanelfven.  ( )n 
looking  through  the  railway  car  window  one  beholds  a  con- 
stantly changing  panorama  of  such  beauty,  that  the  route  is  ac- 
knowledged as  one  of  the  finest  by  rail  in  all  Sweden. 

It  was  a  warm  day.  The  thermometer  showed  31  degrees 
Celsius  in  the  railway  car.  Well,  now  I  must  stop  and  exi:)hiin 
myself  again.  Why  could  we  not  use  the  same  thermometer  all 
over  the  world?  That  would  be  practical.  But  as  we  are  not 
able  to  reform,  I  may,  instead,  be  allowed  to  produce  a  table 
on  the  next  page  which  explains  the  scale  of  the  different 
thermometers. 

As  you  know  full  well  we  follow  the  Fahrenheit  thermometer 
in  America.  It  \\as  thus  about  88  degrees  in  our  country.  This 
was  felt  extremely  warm  far  up  in  the  North,  but  at  Falun  they 
had  102  degrees  in  the  shade,  one  day  last  summer. 

It  is  liable  to  be  very  warm,  even  in  northerly  latitudes,  al- 
though only  very  seldom. 

About  the  beauties  of  Angermanelfven  your  humble  servant 
has  spoken  largely  on  previous  occasions,  wherefore  it  is  now 
sufficient  only  to  confirm  the  impressions  then  received. 

From  Solleftea  we  arrive  at  Lokom.  The  Tslulltra  mount  ap- 
pears on  the  north  side  of  the  river.  Other  names  are  Sanga, 
Tonsakra,  Ytterlannas,  Graninge.  Rollsta-iron  works,  Kramfors. 
Spningbacken,  Gudmundra,  Ramvik,  Veda,  Alandsbro.  etc.  May- 

421 


be  I  have  not  got  them  in  the  right  order.    This  time  we  stopped 
at  Alandsbro,  to  pay  a  visit  to  the  beautiful  and  hospitable  Sabra. 
Comparative  table  between  the  thermometers  of  Celsius  (C), 
Reaumure  (R.),  an.d  Fahrenheit  (F.). 


c. 

R. 

F. 

C. 

R. 

F. 

C. 

R. 

F. 

c. 

R 

F. 

+ 

+ 

+ 

+ 

+ 

+ 

4- 

+ 

4- 

lOO 

80Q 

ata'o 

66 

5a8 

1508 

33 

256 

896 

—  t 

-  08 

4-303 

99 

79a 

aio'a 

65 

Sao 

149.0 

31 

248 

878 

—    3 

-  16 

384 

98 

784 

308-4 

64 

sra 

147  a 

30 

34  0 

860 

-  3 

-    3  4 

36-6 

97 

776 

ao66 

63 

504 

MS  4 

39 

23-4 

84-3 

—  4 

—  33 

34-8 

96 

768 

204 '8 

63 

496 

1436 

38 

234 

83-4 

—  5 

—  40 

33-0 

95 

760 

ao3  0 

61 

488 

141  8 

37 

2l6 

806 

-  6 

-  4  8 

ai'a 

94 

7Sa 

aoi'a 

60 

480 

140  0 

36 

308 

788 

—  7 

-  56 

'94 

93 

744 

199-4 

59 

47  a 

138  a 

35 

30  0 

770 

-  8 

-  64 

176 

9a 

73-6 

1976 

58 

464 

136  4 

34 

19  2 

75  3 

-  9 

—  73 

158 

9' 

7a8 

1958 

57 

456 

1346 

33 

i8-4 

734 

—  10 

—  80 

140 

90 

7a 'O 

194  0 

56 

448 

132  8 

33 

176 

716 

-  II 

-  8  8 

ta-2 

89 

7t  a 

iga'a 

55 

440 

131  0 

31 

16  0 

698 

—  13 

-96 

104 

88 

704 

1904 

54 

433 

139  3 

30 

168 

68-0 

-'3 

—  104 

86 

87 

696 

1886 

53 

434 

1374 

>9 

«5   3 

663 

—14 

— ii-a 

6-8 

86 

68-8 

1868 

53 

4i6 

I3S  6 

18 

144 

644 

-15 

—  la'o 

50 

85 

680 

«85-o 

51 

408 

133-8 

'7 

'36 

6a6 

-16 

-138 

33 

84 

67a 

183  a 

50 

40  0 

123  0 

t6 

138 

608 

—  «7 

-136 

«'4 

83 

66-4 

181  4 

49 

393 

I30-3 

'5 

13  0 

590 

-18 

—14  4 

-  04 

8a 

656 

179-6 

48 

384 

ii8  4 

■4 

II-3 

57  2 

-19 

—  15  3 

—    3  2 

81 

648 

1778 

47 

376 

116-6 

'3 

104 

554 

—20 

—  16  0 

-    40 

80 

640 

176-0 

46 

368 

114  8 

13 

96 

536 

—  31 

-168 

-  5-8 

79 

633 

174-2 

45 

360 

1130 

II 

88 

5. -8 

—  22 

-176 

-76 

78 

6a-4 

173-4 

44 

35  3 

III  3 

10 

80 

500 

—  33 

-184 

-  9  4 

77 

6i'6 

170  6 

43 

344 

109  4 

^ 

73 

48a 

—  24 

—  192 

—11-3 

76 

608 

168-8 

42 

33-6 

J07  6 

8 

64 

464 

-25 

— aoo 

-130 

75 

600 

1670 

4' 

339 

105  8 

7 

56 

446 

—  26 

— 3o8 

-148 

74 

592 

165-3 

40 

330 

104  0 

6 

48 

428 

-37 

-ar6 

-166 

73 

584 

1634 

39 

31  2 

I03  2 

5 

40 

41  0 

-a8 

—23-4 

-.8-4 

7a 

576 

161  6 

38 

304 

100  4 

4 

33 

393 

-29 

-333 

— 2oa 

71 

568 

'598 

37 

296 

986 

3 

2   4 

37  4 

-30 

—240 

—  23  0 

70 

560 

1580 

36 

28-8 

968 

3 

16 

356 

69 

SSa 

156: 

35 

280 

95-0 

I 

08 

338 

68 

544 

«544 

34 

37  3 

93- a 

0 

00 

330 

67 

53-6 

1536 

33 

364 

914 

422 


»'^^y* 


t^UEEN    SOPHIA. 


PRINCE  CHARLES   AND    PRINCESS  INGEBORG. 


THE   ROYAL   PALACE  :      THE   KING'S   SUITE.      THE  PILLAR   HALL. 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

Prince  Charles  and  Princess  Ingeborg. 

An  unnatural  and  artificial  union  was  contracted  between  the 
three  Scandinavian  realms,  Sweden,  Norway  and  Denmark  an- 
no domini,  1397.  Five  hundred  years  later,  Aug.  27,  i8q7,  a  more 
natural  union  was  compacted  between  the  three  countries,  when 
a  member  of  the  royal  family  of  Sweden-Norway  united  his  fate 
with  a  member  of  the  Danish  royal  family.  King  Oscar  II. 's  son 
Charles,  Duke  of  Vestergotland,  then  became  united  in  holy  wed- 
lock to  the  Princess  Ingeborg,  daughter  to  the  Danish  crown- 
prince.  Christian  Fredrik  and  his  consort,  Louisa,  daughter  of 
Charles  XV.    He  is  36  and  she  is  19  years  of  age. 

The  nuptials  took  place  in  the  palace  church  in  Copenhagen 
in  the  presence  of  King  Oscar,  the  Danish  royal  family,  the  Rus- 
sian Dowager-Empress,  Maria  Feodorowna.  the  Princess  of 
Wales,  the  Swedish  Crown-Prince  and  Crown-Princess,  and 
Prince  Eugene,  and  the  various  Danish  and  Swedish  notables. 
King  Oscar  conducted  the  bridegroom,  and  Prince  Fredrik  the 
bride  to  the  altar.  The  speech  which  the  officiating  clergyman, 
Dean  Pauli,  addressed  to  the  bridal  couple  was  particularly  im- 
pressive, and  of  deep  significance  were  those  words  which  he 
spoke  to  the  bride.  These  words,  vdiich  were  characteristic  with 
regard  to  the  excellent  qualities  of  the  Princess,  were  as  follows: 
"You,  our  dear  young  Princess,  will  be  received  with  love 
by  the  people  whom  you  are  now  going  to  belong  to,  and  with 
love  you  will  be  remembered  by  us  all,  who  have  seen  you  grow 
up,  and  who  invoke  the  blessing  of  God  over  you,  and  over  your 
future  days.  Another  language  than  that  which  you  have  been 
used  to  will  be  spoken  to  you,  but  the  Lord's  prayer  is  equally 
understood  on  both  sides  of  the  Sound.    A  flag  with  other  colors 

427 


will  float  over  you  for  the  future,  but  in  that,  like  in  the  Danne- 
brog,  a  cross  is  in  the  center,  and  we  who  believe  in  the  Savior 
on  the  cross,  venture  to  pronounce  in  His  name:  'Go  now  forth 
and  depart  in  peace!'  Amen." 

On  the  termination  of  the  ceremony  King  Oscar  folded  to 
his  heart  his  son  and  daughter-in-law,  and  embraced  and  kissed 
them  affectionately.  At  the  wedding  banquet,  which  took  place 
in  the  royal  residential  palace,  the  old  King  Christian  of  Den- 
mark, spoke  feelingly  to  the  bridal  couple,  and  to  the  King  and 
Queen  of  Sweden-Norway,  and  in  his  response  King  Oscar  lay 
particular  stress  on  the  relationship  and  friendship  by  which  the 
two  royal  houses  already  were  united.  He  thanked  the  Crown- 
Prince  of  Denmark  for  his  consent  to  the  matrimonial  union, 
and  the  Princess  Ingeborg  for  her  ardent  love  of  his  son. 

Denmark's  beautiful  capital  was  profusely  decorated  during 
the  festive  days  of  the  nuptials,  and  great  crowds  of  people  were 
moving  about  in  the  public  places  to  express  their  participation 
in  the  general  rejoicing,  and  their  devotion  to  their  truly  beloved 
young  Princess. 

Among  the  bridal  gifts  of  the  Princess  Ingeborg  we  specify: 
A  necklace  of  jewels,  consisting  of  44  large  solitaires,  the  gift  of 
King  Oscar;  a  large  semi-circular  ornament  for  the  hair,  with 
jewels,  from  Queen  Sophia;  a  necklace  in  several  strands  of  large 
Oriental  pearls,  and  a  diadem  of  jewels  with  large  solitaires,  which 
also  can  be  used  as  a  necklace,  from  Prince  Charles;  a  pair  of 
magnificent  sugar  urns  of  silver,  in  Roccoco  style,  with  engraved 
monograms,  surmounted  by  ducal  crowns,  from  the  Dowager- 
Duchess  of  Dalecarlia.  These  costly  presents  are  enclosed  in 
elegant  cases  with  monograms  and  ducal  crowns. 

Prince  Charles  received,  besides  splendid  presents  from  his 
military  entourage  and  circle  of  private  friends:  From  the  corps 
of  officers  of  the  Royal  Cavalry  Life  Guard,  of  which  the  Prince 
is  chief  commander,  he  received  a  valuable  and  artistically 
wrought  silver  vase;  from  the  King's  stafif-general,  a  table  orna- 
ment of  oxidized  silver;  from  the  Swedish  and  Norwegian  aid-de- 
camp officers,  confectionery  bowls  of  gilt  silver,  etc.  Prince 
Charles  and  Princess  Ingeborg  have  presented  their  brothers  and 
sisters  with  the  following  memorial  gifts.  The  Crown-Prince  re- 
ceived their  photograph  portraits  in  a  frame  of  gold,  the  design 
of  which  was  made  by  Prince  Eugene.  The  present  to  the  Crown- 
Princess  consisted  of  a  gold  brooch  in  the  shape  of  a  heart,  with 

428 


jewels,  and  be-je\veled  monogram  and  crown.  The  Danish  princes 
each  received  a  scarf  pin  with  gold  monogram  C.  I.  on  emerald, 
and  each  of  the  Danish  princesses  a  similar  brooch. 

After  the  nuptial  festivities  the  new-married  couple  went  on  a 
short  wedding  trip,  after  which  they  took  up  their  residence  in 
the  palace  of  the  heir  presumptive  in  Stockholm.  The  princely 
couple  had  numerous  proofs  of  afifcction  and  respect  shown  to 
them  on  their  arrival  in  Stockholm,  as  well  as  from  the  "lower 
classes"  as  from  the  aristocracy.  They  have  been  heartily  wel- 
comed, and  a  general  interest  has  been  taken  in  them,  and  con- 
tinues to  be  so,  and  the  very  best  hopes  are  entertained  for  the 
future  happiness  of  Prince  Charles  and  Princess  Tngeborg. 

Seldom  have  any  princely  couple  begun  their  wedded  life  un- 
der more  favorable  auspices.  Prince  Charles  and  his  consort  are 
ardently  attached  to  one  another  by  true  love.  Their  responsive 
hearts  have  made  their  mutual  choice.  The  Prince,  like  his  father 
and  his  brothers,  is  very  popular  in  Sweden.  He  is  spirited,  gal- 
lant, and  bright.  A  frank  and  faithful  heart  is  his  principal  char- 
acteristic. He  is  a  popular  and  exceedingly  competent  ofiicer, 
an  honor  and  an  ornament  to  his  cavalry  life-guard.  He  has  re- 
ceived an  excellent  and  thorough  education,  and  has  brought  with 
him  into  life  only  noble  impressions  and  bright  memories  from 
the  home  of  his  childhood.  It  is  the  same  in  regard  with  royal 
or  princely  children  as  with  those  of  meaner  birth:  the  impres- 
sions and  the  guidance  they  receive  in  their  early  home  w^ill  be 
of  the  greatest  moment  in  after  life.  Say  whatever  you  like  about 
the  Swedish  Princess  at  present  living,  a  genial  home-life  they 
have  enjoyed,  excellent  parents  they  have,  and  distinguished  men 
they  all  are,  each  in  his  pecular  sphere.  And  the  Princess  Inge- 
borg!  She  is  depicted  as  an  unpretentious,  gentle  and  sympa- 
thetic woman,  a  constant  sunbeam.  She  was  brought  up  in 
simple  habits,  and  she  has  in  the  capital  of  Denmark  led  a  quiet 
life.  She  is  not  accustomed  to  superabundance  and  luxury,  and 
silly  fripperies.  Her  home-life,  which  is  made  evident  by  her 
simple  habits  and  unpretentious  trouseau— bear  more  the  impress 
of  bourgoisie  than  of  royalty.  The  noble  and  excellent  quali- 
ties of  the  Princess  are  extolled  wherever  she  is  known.  With 
knowledge  of  her  loveable  disposition  and  temperament,  we  may 
confidently  assert  that  she  will  be  equally  much  beloved  by  the 
Swedish  people,  as  she  has  been  and  is  still  beloved  in  Denmark. 
The  hearts  of  her  parents-in-law  she  has  entirely  captivated,  and 

4-9 


with  the  charms  of  maidenly  simpHcity  and  her  sunny  smile  she 
fascinates  all  with  whom  she  comes  into  contact. 

May  God  confer  upon  Prince  Charles  and  his  Ingeborg,  His 
abundant  blessings,  that  they  may  enjoy  many  happy  years  to- 
gether in  love  and  peace,  and  ever  remain  ornaments  to  the 
Swedish  royal  family— as  examples  of  all  that  is  good  and  worthy 
of  being  followed  by  the  people  of  Sweden! 


430 


CHAPTER  XXXL 

"Skansen"  ok  "the  Redoubt,"  and  the  Northern   Etno- 
GRAPHic  Museum. 

The  Northern  Ethnographic  Museum  and  ''the  Redoubt,"  or 
"Skansen,"  belong  not  only  to  the  most  remarkable  sights  of 
Stockholm,  but  indeed,  also,  to  the  most  peculiar  a  tourist  may 
behold  either  at  Stockholm,  or  anywhere  else  in  the  world. 

Dr.  Arthur  Hazelius  has  given  concrete  form  to  the  maxim 
of  the  old  Grecian  sage:  "Know  thyself."  He  has  made  Sweden 
know  herself,  as  never  before.  The  creator  of  all  this  is  already 
old  and  feeble,  but  he  can  with  joy  behold  how  his  pet  theories 
gradually,  one  after  another,  have  not  only  been  accepted,  but 
also  become  realized. 

It  is  surely  about  a  quarter  of  a  century  since  Dr.  Hazelius 
in  full  earnest  began  these  enormous  collections,  which  last  sum- 
mer were  said  to  reach  90,000  numbers.  They  now  fill  not  only 
halls  and  whole  flats,  but  one  building  after  another,  together 
with  the  well-known  park  called  "Skansen"  or  "the  Redoubt." 

We  viewed  the  Museum  in  company  with  Rev.  and  Mrs.Abra- 
hamson.  and  Rev.  and  Mrs.  Tengvald.  The  latter  was  already 
acquainted  there  beforehand,  and  through  her  friendly  mediation 
we  obtained  the  amanuensis,  Mr.  Vistrand,  as  our  guide. 

It  is  impossible  in  a  few  lines  even  approximately  to  give 
the  reader  any  conception  of  these  enormous  collections.  One 
strolls  through  room  after  room,  gazes,  enquires,  and  expresses 
one's  astonishment,  and  in  that  way  continues  from  section  to 
section,  from  building  to  building.  One  sees  what  Sweden  has 
been,  and  perceives  how^  it  has  become  what  it  is;  one  beholds 
the  historical  development  in  a  concrete  object-lesson. 

Here  we  encounter  pre-historic  things  from  the  stone,  bronze 

431 


and  iron  ages.  In  another  large  hall  we  find  groups  of  whole 
families  from  different  provinces,  entire  rooms  filled  with  furni- 
ture, ornaments,  etc.  Some  of  these  were  already  exhibited  at 
the  Centenary  Exposition  in  Philadelphia,  and  there  gained  well- 
merited  praise.  One  looks  long  at  these  groups,  scrutinizing, 
and  always  with  increased  interest. 

All  possible  utensils,  tools,  implements,  furniture  or  arma- 
ments, weapons,  seals,  clothes,  church-decorations,  keep-sakes 
after  remarkable  men — everything  exists  in  great  abundance. 
One  fatigues  one's-self  in  viewing,  time  and  again,  begins 
anew,  proceeds  to  other  sections,  other  buildings,  and  is  more 
and  more  amazed  at  the  energy  and  patriotic  love  which  has 
made  the  Ethnographic  Northern  Museum  a  possibility  and  such 
a  splendid  reality. 

"Skansen,"  which  we  have  alluded  to,  also  makes  an  ever 
memorable  impression  on  the  visitor.  The  idea  is  so  original,  so 
beautiful,  so  instantly  captivating,  that  one  becomes  positively 
enraptured. 

Regarding  the  plan  of  Dr.  Hazelius,  Mr.  Herman  Ring  says: 
"This  truly  grand  idea  had  already  been  clear  to  a  Swedish  man, 
Arthur  Hazelius.  He  possessed  already  in  the  Ethnographic 
Northern  Museum  the  history  of  the  Swedish  costumes,  the 
Swedish  chattels,  yea,  of  all  the  interior  household  belongings, 
but  that  was  not  enough  for  him. 

He  wanted  to  have  gathered  in  one  place  a  collective  repre- 
sentation of  how  our  people,  since  time  immemorial,  had  lived 
by  the  river-banks,  on  mountains  and  in  valleys,  to  place  beside 
each  other,  the  halls  of  our  earliest  ancestors,  where  the  drinking- 
horn  was  passed  around  the  gathering  held  below  its  sooty  raft- 
ers, in  juxtaposition  to  the  feudal  castle  of  the  middle-ages,  with 
towers  hemmed  in  by  water,  draw-bridges  and  moats,  together 
with  the  serrated  gables  and  jutting  balconies  of  the  burghers' 
domiciles  in  the  Hanse-towns,  and  the  ornated  pavilion  from  the 
roccoco  period  of  Gustavus  HI.  And  then  the  dwellings  of  our 
peasantry!  He  wanted  to  display  them  all,  from  the  primitive 
tents  of  the  nomadic  Lapps,  the  log-cabins  of  the  Dalecarlians, 
the  Smalander's  hillside  shanty,  the  Icelander's  earth-house,  and 
the  Finn's  reeky  cot,  way  up  to  the  corner-trimmed  cottage  of  the 
Dalecarlin  Mora  peasant,  the  ridge-roofed  dwelling  of  the  opu- 
lent Blekinge  husbandman,  and  the  court-yard  of  the  wealthy 
farmers  of  Scane. 

43^ 


He  wanted  to  erect  them  all  in  one  place,  from  old  material 
or  in  imitation  from  similar  lumber,  by  similar  ways  of  working 
as  in  the  olden  times. 

And  this  was  not  enough.  He  wanted  also  to  display  them 
in  the  midst  of  their  surroundings  of  arborial, — vegetable  and 
animal  world, — the  entire  nature  they  possessed  or  still  possess 
in  reality. 

A  capital  grand  plan,  worthy  of  the  grand  capital.  The  ques- 
tion was  now  only  how  to  get  means  wherewith  to  realize  the 
plan,  and  a  place  which  could  comfortably  harbor  the  colossal 
open-air  museum. 

It  was  then  his  thoughts  chanced  to  fall  on  the  Skansen  or 
the  Redoubt.  A  more  beautiful,  and  thorough  natural  variety,  or 
more  eligible  place  was  difficult  to  obtain,  and  a  more  glorious 
site  it  would  be  impossible  to  find.  Besides,  the  place  had  the 
advantage  of  being  situated  in  the  Deergarden  park,  where  the 
palace  of  the  Ethnographic  Northern  Museum  once  was  to  be 
erected,  down  on  the  neighboring  Lion-plain,  and  where,  fur- 
thermore, through  the  generosity  of  Count  Hallwyl,  another 
place,  the  beautiful  Framnas,  already  belonged  to  the  museum. 

The  advantages  this  site  offered  were  so  evident,  that  already 
the  same  year  that  the  plan  was  conceived  Dr.  Hazelius  opened 
negotiations  with  the  land-owner,  Mr.  Hammer,  regarding  the 
purchase.  Although  it  did  not  lead  to  any  immediate  result  the 
project  was  not  abandoned.  The  negotiations  were  renewed  the 
following  year,  and  then  with  success. 

To  be  sure,  the  entire  domain  of  Skansen  was  not  thereby 
acquired.  That  part  further  out  on  the  bluff  above  the  theater, 
where  the  pavilion  and  sheds  have  been  erected,  w^as  then  aj)- 
praised  at  too  high  a  price.  But  the  inner  part  of  the  park  be- 
tween the  buildings,  and  all  the  way  to  the  boundary  of  the  Bel- 
vedere, was  bought  for  a  price  of  25,000  crowns,  for  which  Dr. 
Hazelius  personally  guaranteed  payment.  The  title-deed  was 
signed  May  2d. 

Through  a  new  purchase,  Jan.  i.  this  year.  Belvedere,  with 
its  territory,  were  added  to  Skansen,  so  that  the  space  the 
museum  now  disposes  on  the  plateau  is  nearly  ^2  acres. 

When  the  plot  had  been  acquired,  the  work  for  the  open-air 
museum  was  energetically  begun.  The  first  was  to  cut  and 
clean,  to  remedy  what  liad  been  neglected,  straighten  and  re- 
store old  roads,  and  make  new  ones,  to  manure  and  sow  the 

433 


grass-plots,  cleanse  the  ponds,  in  one  word,  to  arrange  the  place 
itself. 

The  next  question  was  the  erection  of  the  buildings,  and  to 
arrange  their  relative  collections  from  the  vegetable  and  animal 
kingdoms. 

Of  course,  everything  could  not  be  done  at  once,  particularly 
the  building  could,  for  economic  reason,  only  gradually  be 
erected,  and  the  commencement  had  to  be  made  with  those  com- 
paratively the  cheapest.  But  although  the  labor  for  arranging 
the  place  itself  during  the  earlier  portion  evidently  cost  a  great 
deal  of  time  and  money,  the  m.eans  and  energy  proved  sufficient, 
so  that  already  early  in  October,  1891,  the  arrangements  were 
so  far  advanced  that  Skansen  could  be  thrown  open  to  the  pub- 
lic. Everything  is  still  far  from  ready,  indeed,  on  the  contrary, 
the  greater  part  remains  yet  to  be  done.  But  during  the  con- 
tinued progress  of  the  work  we  have  yet  witnessed  how  Skan- 
sen, from  week  to  week,  nay,  from  day  to  day,  has  developed  to 
what  it  already  is:  namely,  the  favorite  spot  of  the  Stockholm 
people,  and  the  most  peculiar  sight  of  the  capital,  quite  as  char- 
acteristic for  our  city  as,  for  instance,  is  Thorwaldsen's  Museum 
for  Copenhagen,  or  the  mediaeval  castle  of  Turin,  and  like  them, 
perfectly  unique. 

Already  when  one  has  ascended  the  steep  way,  which  winds 
past  the  theater,  or  the  somewhat  longer,  but  more  comfortable 
one  from  the  plain,  past  the  circus  and  Westerling's  livery- 
stables,  and  turns  in  on  the  road  to  the  Redoubt,  with  its  old 
lynx-eyes  and  horn-lanterns,  we  become  surrounded  by  a  dif- 
ferent atmosphere,  a  breath  from  past  ages,  which  possessed 
other  aims,  and  different  idiosyncracies  than  our  own  feverish 
and  bustling  time.  We  pass  in  through  the  gate,  with  its  beav.- 
tiful  wood-carvings,  and  steep  roof,  and  the 'pendant  bar,  which 
in  large,  bold  type  announces  the  name  "Skansen,"  (the  Re- 
doubt), we  pass  the  handsomely  arranged  garden  which  con- 
tains living  samples  of  all  the  cereals,  fodder-plants  and  kitchen- 
vegetables  that  grow  in  Sweden,  and  the  little  building  which 
holds  the  office  and  guards'  rooms,  and  then  we  pass  the  Lapland 
jMuseum,  and  finally  arrive  at  the  main  road,  called  Gustavus 
\"asa's  road,  which  leads  straight  through  the  park,  and  glancing 
around  we  receive  the  impress  of  an  overwhelming  sensation. 

Here  everything  proclaims  the  father-land,  and  its  memories, 
the  love  and  veneration  for  our  cherished  country,  from  the 

434 


grandest  deeds  to  the  minutest  details.  The  very  names  of  the 
labyrinth  of  roads  which  meander  in  every  direction  tell  thereof. 
They  are  all  dedicated  to  the  memory  of  our  great  kings  or 
heroes  on  the  fields  of  war  or  on  the  fields  of  peaceful  acquisitions, 
principally,  of  course,  to  those  men  who  have  their  names  asso- 
ciated with  our  ethnography,  with  the  knowledge  of  our  land 
and  our  people. 

The  first  great  road  bears,  as  we  said,  the  name  of  Gustavus 
Vasa.  From  this  diverge  to  the  left  roads  with  thv;  names  of 
our  King  "Charles,"  and  to  the  right  those  of  our  Kings  "Gus- 
tavus," until  they  have  encircled  the  entire  Redoubt  park,  when 
the  roads  of  Charles  XIV.  and  Gustavus  III.  meet  further  away, 
where  the  Belvedere  tower  rises  aloft.  Between  the  roads  of 
the  Charles'  and  the  Gustavus'  wind  in  a  slight  curve,  the  roads 
of  Axel  Oxenstierna  and  Linnaeus  around  the  platform  on  which 
on  festival  nights  country-dances  and  patriotic  songs  alternate. 
Minor  paths  with  different  names  diverge  from  these,  yet  all  so 
arranged  that  those  names  they  bear  suggest  to  the  mind  those 
sections  of  the  museum  past  which  they  lead.  Thus,  for  instance, 
a  meandering,  beautiful  woodland-path,  leading  away  to  the  Bel- 
vedere, with  its  associations  of  the  Stockholm  of  uie  fascinating 
Gustavus  III.,  has  been  named  after  Charles  Michael  Bellman. 

Away  to  the  lowly  dwellings  of  the  Dalecarlians  leads  a  road 
with  the  patriotic  name  of  Engelbrekt;  around  the  camp  of  the 
Lapps  wind  the  paths  of  Johannes  SchefTeri  and  G.  \'.  von  Dii- 
ben,  the  road  which,  past  a  rock  covered  with  beautiful  Alpine 
plants,  lead  down  to  the  Hart-enclosure,  bear  the  name  of  Goran 
Wahlenberg,  and  to  the  cemetery  of  the  Redoubt  with  its  great 
collection  of  old  tomb-monuments  leads  the  road  of  Johan  Olof 
WalHn,  the  great  psalmist,  and  archbishop. 

But  it  is  not  only  the  immortal  names  of  great  departed  men 
which  from  the  sign-posts  at  the  cross-ways  appeal  to  the  patri- 
otic mind.  Our  heart  beats  still  more  ardently  at  the  sight  of 
all  the  object-lessons  from  the  life  of  our  people  which  the  visitor 
encounters  here  at  every  step. 

In  the  center  of  the  park  rise  mementos  from  old  Stockholm, 
a  beautiful  marble  obelisk  from  the  buildings  erected  by  Harle- 
man  at  88  Queen  street,  huge  stone-balls  from  the  Pontin  resi- 
dence near  the  Deergarden  bridge,  the  cannon  which  used  to  lie 
as  a  sign-post  in  the  court-yard  of  the  building  of  No.  79  Queen 
street,  which  premises  have  been  bought  by  the  Erhnographic 

437 


Northern  Museum,  and  finally,  the  enormous  stone  with  the 
monogram  of  Gustavus  III.,  which  ornated  the  central  arch  of 
the  old  Riddarholnisbron,  or  Knights-isle  bridge. 

If  we  then  look  to  the  left  we  are  first  attracted  by  the  Lapp 
encampment,  on  a  slope,  planted  with  fir-trees,  exhibiting  their 
"cotor"  or  "tepees  of  the  Indians,"  their  larders  and  implement- 
sheds,  the  small,  dark-skinned  Lapps,  and  lively  Lapland-dogs, 
and  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  road  a  rocky-hill,  composed  of 
huge  blocks,  on  which  graze  a  herd  of  reindeer. 

Where  the  blufT  is  the  highest  at  the  corner  against  the  strand- 
road,  the  Hasjo-belfry,  with  its  leek-shaped  cupola,  rears  proudly 
its  slender  spire  aloft.  To  the  left  thereof  lies  the  grave-yard, 
referred  to  above,  and  past  one  of  the  most  beautiful  points  of 
view, — the  most  exquisite,  perhaps,  next  to  the  doorway  of  the 
belfry,  commanding  the  extended  view, — there  meanders  a  road 
along  the  present  boundary  of  the  museum  park,  down  towards 
the  strand-way,  past  the  Hart-enclosure. 

Another  road  leads  on  the  inner  site  of  the  belfry,  past  stone- 
cabins  and  charcoal-cots,  a  tar-dell,  and  the  large  seal-pond,  not 
yet  ready,  and  the  clearings  in  a  frontier-forest,  the  fox-pits,  and 
the  pond  for  sea-fowl,  away  to  the  Dalecarlian  huts,  the  cottage 
from  Mora,  with  its  May-pole,  with  pennon,  in  front,  and  the 
little  hacking-cot  from  Orsa. 

These  lie  behind  the  Stockholm  mementos.  On  reaching 
them  we  have  thus  past  the  whole  left  side  of  the  territory. 

If,  while  on  Gustavus  Vasa's  road,  w'e  turn  to  the  right  in- 
stead of  to  the  left,  we  again  meet  the  large  enclosure  of  the 
Jamtland  mountain  pasture,  with  all  its  different  buildings,  in 
the  midst  of  which  rises  the  cone-shaped  kitchen-bowl. 

A  little  further  away  stands  the  handsome  Bollnas-cottage, 
with  its  three  white  chimney-stacks.  Behind  it  is  a  forest-path 
with  the  elk-enclosure  on  the  left  and  the  barn  on  the  right. 
When  we  have  past  the  Bollnas-cottage  we  see  on  the  left  a 
pretty  little  lake  in  the  midst  of  which  lies  an  islet,  illustrating 
folk-lore  superstition.  One  there  beholds  the  primitive  idols  of 
the  Lapps,  pixy-mills,  and  the  like.  Behind  the  pond  stands 
the  Blekinge  ridge-roofed  domicile  with  its  tiny  window-panes, 
two  roomy  lofts,  and  turf-covered  roof. 

When  we  have  come  so  far  the  territory  is  explored,  even  in 
that  direction,  and  we  may,  after  having  seen  all  what  the  mu- 
seum-park has  to  offer,  and  past  the  section  for  birds  of  prey, 

438 


with  its  huge  cages  for  eagles  and  other  birds,  then  continue  our 
road  to  Belvedere,  with  its  glorious  view  and  elegant  roccoco- 
cafe,  which  offers  the  visitor  a  pleasant  resting-place. 

We  visited  "Skansen"  time  and  again.  One  could  easily 
stroll  about  there  as  often  as  one  liked  without  getting  tired,  par- 
ticularly if  one  remembered  the  admirable  aim  of  the  mind  that 
instituted  the  whole,  namely,  to  make  Sweden  see  herself,  and 
thereby  learn  to  know  what  she  has  been,  and  thus  awaken  and 
encourage  an  ever-increasing  and  more  reliable  patriotism. 


439 


CHAPTER  XXXn. 

"The  Royal  Palace  and  Armory." 

However  staunch  a  Republican  the  tourist  may  be,  he  wishes 
during  his  visit  to  Stockholm  to  view  the  grand,  fam.ous,  and  if 
I  may  use  the  expression,  abounding  royal  palace. 

Inexperienced  Americans  fancy  that  it  looks  too  old-fash- 
ioned. That  is  only  because  they  don't  understand  what  is  fine. 
When  they  have  seen  a  little  more  of  this  world,  the  royal  edifice 
in  Stockholm,  will  appear  all  the  more  spendid  also  to  them. 

We  were  in  luck,  nobody  was  at  home.  The  American  reader 
feels  perhaps  puzzled.  Well,  this  means  that  we  were  allowed 
to  see  everything.  I  believe  we  had  quite  half  a  dozen  different 
attendants,  who  showed  us  what  was  to  be  seen. 

W^e  viewed  the  King's,  the  Queen's,  the  Crown-Prince's,  the 
Crown-Princess'  different  suits  of  apartments,  also  the  banquet- 
ting  hall,  the  suit  of  guest-rooms,  the  royal  chapel,  the  throne- 
chamber,  etc. 

My  friends,  how  the  W^hite-House,  with  is  belongings,  appear 
small  and  insignificant,  after  one  has  hurriedly  passed  through 
the  royal  palace  in  Stockholm. 

In  the  Queen's  apartments  we  beheld  Biblical  quotations  in 
English,  and  on  her  book-shelve  writings  by  Rudin,  Funcke  and 
Spurgeon.     They  seemed  to  have  been  diligently  used. 

On  the  Crown-Princess'  writing-table  lay  a  catalogue  of 
the  Stockholm  Exposition.  In  the  Crown-Prince's  cozy  study 
we  observed  a  portrait  of  the  King  of  Siam,  a  picture  of  Stock- 
holm, portrait  of  his  family,  of  his  children's  teachers,  etc.  The 
two  suits  of  apartments  for  the  Crown-Prince  and  the  Crown- 
Princess  were  particularly  comfortable. 

Other  apartments  especially  worth  viewing  are,  the  Concert- 
hall,  the  Audience-chamber,  the  Crimson-room,  the  Grand  Gal- 

440 


lery,  which  is  156  feet  long  and  23  feet  wide,  and  very  elegant 
and  costly  because  of  the  paintings  and  sculpture,  etc.  "The 
White-Sea,"  or  white-marble  ball-room,  135  feet  long,  114  feet 
wide,  Blue  and  Crimson  boudoirs,  and  the  bed-room  in  which 
Charles  XIV.  (Bernadotte)  died,  the  Hall  of  the  Order  of  Serap- 
him, the  Council-chamber,  the  Throne-room,  etc. 

Finally,  I  may  quote  the  following  general  information  about 
the  palace  from  my  guide-books: 

The  palace  is  constructed  of  brick  and  covered  with  sand- 
stone, has  flat  roof,  covered  with  copper,  and  also  a  balustrade  of 
grayish-brown  sand-stone,  and  consists  of  one  nearly  quadrangu- 
lar main  building,  371  feet  wide  from  east  to  west,  and  405  feet 
long  from  north  to  south.  The  main  structure  encloses  a  court- 
yard, with  entrances  through  porticos,  situated  in  the  center  of 
each  facade,  at  each  of  the  four  corners  of  the  main  building, 
are  smaller  wings  adjoining.  Besides  these,  on  the  west  side 
two  detached  semi-circular  wings  are  erected,  which  encompass 
the  smaller  or  outer  court-yard.  The  whole  palace,  with  interior 
arrangements  and  furniture  is  computed  to  have  cost  over  twelve 
million  crowns. 

The  ascent  to  the  north  facade  is  by  means  of  a  zig-zag  way. 
called  the  Lion-hill,  on  account  of  the  two  bronze-lions,  moulded 
in  the  time  of  Charles  XIL,  and  mounted  in  1704,  which  now 
decorate  the  approach.  The  substructure  itself  of  the  Lion-hill, 
with  its  colossal  granite-blocks  and  pillars,  was  not  completed 
until  1824-43. 

The  south  front,  facing  the  Castle-hill  ascent,  and  on  the 
exterior,  decorated  with  bronze  mouldings  of  trophies,  contains 
the  Chapel  Royal  and  the  Throne-hall.  The  chapel  is  hand- 
some, resplendent  in  gold  and  marble,  and  the  Throne-hall  de- 
voted to  the  grand  solemnities  of  the  constitutional  state,  pos- 
sesses precious  sculpture  by  Sergei  and  Qvarnstrom,  and  statues 
of  Gustavus  IL  Adolphus  and  Charles  XIV.  (Bernadotte)  ex- 
ecuted in  marble  by  Bystrom.  The  royal  throne  of  silver  was  a 
present  by  Earl  Magnus  Gabriel  de  la  Gardie  to  Queen  Christina. 

The  west  facade  is  on  the  exterior  ornated  with  splendid 
sculpture,  amongst  which  ten  colossal  caryatides,  carved  in  stone, 
and  with  nine  large  medalions  of  Swedish  kings  from  the  time 
of  Gustavus  Vasa  to  Charles  XL;  in  the  interior  a  splendid  broad 
stairway  leads  up  to  the  royal  apartments,  the  walls  of  this  stair 
being  ornated  with  pilasters,  marble  statues,  profyr-vases.  mural 

441 


paintings  in  perspective  vistas,  medallions  of  former  Swedish 
kings,  and  with  cherubs  in  bronze, supporting  the  gas-chandeliers. 

The  east  front,  resembling  the  left  one,  has  a  similar  mag- 
nificent stairway  up  to  the  royal  apartments,  and  is  adorned 
exactly  opposite  with  an  exquisite  piece  of  art,  a  gigantic  group 
in  plaster-of-paris,  representing  Axel  Oxenstierna,  who  dictates 
to  Clio,  the  muse  of  history,  the  exploits  of  Gustavus  Adolphus. 
The  wings  of  the  east  frontage  embrace  what  is  called  Logarden, 
or  the  lynx-yard,  originally  intended  for  a  pleasuance  in  which' 
to  keep  wild  animals,  and  by  Charles  XV.  adorned  with  a  beau- 
tiful fountain.  The  descent  to  this  Logirden  is  by  means  of  a 
long  flight  of  stairs,  and  from  it  down  to  the  kay  leads  another 
broad  pair  of  double-stairs. 

The  north  front  contains  the  state  and  banqueting  suites 
of  rooms,  with  numerous  paintings  and  decorations.  The  royal 
apartments  are  distinguished,  both  by  the  costly  furniture  and 
the  precious  works  of  art  they  contain. 

The  armory  is  the  museum  of  royalty,  and  no  one  who  visits 
the  "Queen  City  of  Lake  Malar"  ought  to  neglect  to  view  it. 

One  feels  in  the  beginning  almost  somewhat  bewildered,  be- 
cause it  is  really  a  very  great  difference  in  reading  in  a  book- 
about  things  and  to  come  quite  near  the  concrete  reality.  Thou- 
sands of  Swedish-Americans  have  with  enthusiasm  studied  the 
history  of  Sweden,  and  continue  to  do  so  from  year  to  year. 
They  also  know  full  well  of  many  of  the  treasures  and  mementos 
which  are  shown  in  the  armory.  Who  of  them,  for  instance,  has 
not  heard  of  Gustavus  Adolphus'  hors  and  the  rapier  of  Charles 
XII.? 

Yes,  now  we  are  here.  The  kindly  attendant  accompanies 
us  everywhere. 

Here  are  the  sword  and  pistol  of  Gustavus  Adolphus,  and  the 
swords  of  Gustavus  Vasa,  Charles  IX.,  and  Axel  Oxenstierna. 
The  blood-stained  shirt  of  Gustavus  Adolphus  from  the  battle  of 
Liitzen,  and  the  horse  which  was  used  by  the  hero-king  at  that 
fatal  hour.  The  rapier  which  Charles  XII.  had  drawn  at  his 
death  at  Fredrikshall,  the  sword  of  Charles  XV.,  the  panoply  of 
Christian  II.,  the  Tyrant,  and  the  armors  of  Gustavus  Vasa  and 
Charles  IX. 

Here  we  are  shown  the  masquerade  costume  in  which  Gustavus 
TIL  was  attired  when  his  murder  took  place,  and  the  pistol  which 
dispatched  the  destined  ball,  the  carriage  in  which  Charles  XIIL 

442 


rode  at  his  coronation,  the  habit  in  which  Charles  XII.  was  shot 
(uncommonly  plain),  several  costumes  which  have  belonged  to 
.  Gustavus  Adolphus,  Axel  Oxenstierna's  sledge,  Queen  Christina's 
saddle,  Charles  XII. 's  cradle  (royal  children  lie  in  it  still.  It  is  only 
eight  years  since  it  was  last  used),  a  baptismal  font  of  silver  for 
the  royal  children  (it  required  ten  years  to  make  it,  1697-1707; 
115  kilograms  in  weight),  Charles  XIV. 's  saddle,  the  coronation 
costumes  of  the  two  queens,  Lousia  and  Sophia,  the  wedding 
and  coronation  costumes  of  Queen  Josephine,  etc. 

I  shall  long  remember  this  visit.  It  made  the  history  of 
Sweden  more  realistic  to  us.  Pardon  the  expression,  you  who 
dwell  near  and  always  enjoy  the  advantages  which  the  tour- 
ist only  obtains  once  or  twice  in  his  life. 

What  eminent  kings  Sweden  has  possessed!  How  fortu- 
nately allotted  in  favor  of  most  other  countries!  Glance  only 
briefly  at  the  brilliant  array: 

The  rulers  of  Sweden  and  their  spouses  from  uie  imie  of 
Gustavus  Vasa  until  the  present  day: 

Gustavus  \^asa,  born,  1496;  king,  1523;  died,  1560;  married 
to  (i)  Catherine  of  Saxe-Lauenburg,  1531  (died  1535);  (2)  Mar- 
garete  Leijonhufvud,  1536  (died  1551);  (3)  Catherine  Stenbock, 
1552  (died  1621). 

Eric  XIV.,  the  predecessor's  son  by  first  marriage,  born  1533, 
king  1560,  deposed  1568,  killed  1577,  married  to  Catherine  Mans- 
dotter  1568  (died  1612). 

Johan  III.,  the  predecessor's  half-brother,  born  1537,  king 
1568,  died  1592,  married  to  (i)  Katherinc  Jagelonica  1563  (died 
1583);  (2)  Gunilla  Bjelke  1585  (died  1597). 

Sigismund,  the  predecessor's  son,  born  1566  (in  prison  at 
Gripsholm),  king  1592,  deposed  1599,  died  163?  (simultaneously 
king  of  Poland),  married  to  (i)  Anna  of  Austria  1592;  (2)  Con- 
stantia  of  Austria,  1605. 

Charles  IX.,  the  predecessor's  uncle,  born  1550,  king  1599, 
died  161 1,  married  to  (i)  Maria  of  the  Palatinate  1579  (died  1589); 
(2)  Christina  of  Holstein  1592  (died  1625  at  Gripsholm). 

Gustavus  II.  Adolphus,  the  predecessors  son,  born  1594.  king 
161 1,  killed  1632,  married  to  Maria  Eleonora  of  Brandenburg 
1620  (died  1655). 

Christina,  the  predecessor's  daughter,  born  1626,  queen  1632, 
abdicated  1654,  died  1689  at  Rome. 

Charles  X.  Gustavus,  the  predecessor's  cousin,  son  of  Johan 

443 


Casimir,  Count  Palatine  of  Sweibriicken,  and  Charles  IX.'s 
daughter  Catherine,  born  1622,  king  1654,  died  1660,  married  to 
Hedvig  Eleonora  of  Holstein-Gottorp  1664  (dowager  queen- 
regent)  (died  171 5). 

Charles  XL,  the  predecessor's  son,  born  1655,  king  1660,  died 
1697,  married  to  Ulrika  Eleonora  (senior)  of  Denmark  1680  (died 

1693)- 

Charles  XII.,  the  predecessor's  son,  born  1682,  king  1697, 

killed  1718. 

Ulrika  Eleonora  (junior),  the  predecessors  sister,  born  1688, 
queen  1718,  died  1741,  married  to  Fredrick  I.  (heir-presumtive  to 
the  Duchy  of  Hesse-Cassel),  born  1676,  espoused  1715,  king  1720, 
died  1 75 1. 

Adolphus  Frederick,  Prince  of  Holstein-Gottorp,  Lord  Bish- 
op of  Liibeck,  great  grandson  of  Charles  X.'s  sister.  Christina 
Magdalena,  born  1710,  heir  apparent  1743,  king  1751,  died  1771, 
married  to  Louisa  Ulrika  of  Prussia  1744  (died  1782). 

Gustavus  III.,  the  predecessors  son,  born  1746,  king  1771, 
assassinated  1792,  married  to  Sophia  Magdalena  of  Denmark 
1766  (died  1813). 

Gustavus  IV.  Adolphus,  the  predecessors  son,  born  1778, 
king  1792,  deposed  1809,  died  1837,  married  to  Fredrica  Doro- 
thea Vilhelmina  of  Baden  1797  (died  1826). 

Charles  XIII.,  the  predecessor's  uncle,  born  1748.  king  1809, 
died  1818,  married  to  Hedvig  Elizabeth  Charlotte  of  Holstein- 
Oldenburg  1774  (died  1818). 

Charles  XA'I.  Johan  (Bernadotte),  born  1764,  king  1818,  died 
1844,  married  to  Desideria  (Clary)  1798  (died  i860). 

Oscar  I.,  the  predecessor's  son,  born  1799,  kipg  1844,  died 
1859,  married  to  Josephine  of  Leuchtenberg  1823  (died  1876). 

Charles  XV.,  the  predecessor's  son,  born  1826,  king  1859, 
died  1872,  married  to  Louisa  of  Holland  1850  (died  1871). 

Oscar  II.,  the  predecessor's  brother,  born  1829,  king  1872, 
married  to  Sophia  of  Nassau  1857. 


444 


STOCKHOLM  :      THE   VASA  BRIDGE.      THE   KIDDAKHOLM'S  CHURCH. 
KORNHAMN   SQLTARE. 


THE  ROYAT.  PALACE:   THE  BANQUETING  SUITE.   THE  GALLEUV- 


A"    * 


THE    ROYAL   PALACE  :      THE   RANQUETINO   SUITK 
THE   ROOM   IN   AVHICH   CHAKLES   XIV    .lOHAN    EXriKKD. 


CHAPTER  XXXra. 

The  Riddarholm's  Church  and  Other  Churches 

The  Riddarholm's  Church  is  the  grand  Royal  Mausoleum  of 
Sweden. 

Even  those  who  already  have  seen  it  before  are  again  attracted 
thither  when  they  visit  Stockholm.     And  why? 

Because  here  rest  the  earthly  remains  of  Gustavus  II.  Adol- 
phus,  Charles  XII.,  Charles  XV.,  and  many  others,  whose  names 
to  every  true  Swede  and  Swedish-American  are  precious  and 
immortal. 

The  Riddarholm's  Church  has  ancient  renown,  and  a  long 
history.  It  has  not  always  been  what  it  now  is.  It  was  at  first 
a  monastic  minster,  belonging  to  the  gray  friars  or  Franciscans 

The  monastry  was  founded  already  anno  1270.  King  Magnus 
Ladulas  (Barnlock)  ordered  in  his  will  of  1285  regarding  his 
burial  in  the  church.  Through  that  it  obtained  its  great  prestige 
as  being  the  most  favored  place  of  interment  of  the  great. 

Afterwards  came  Gustavus  Vasa  and  the  reformation,  both 
equally  destructive  for  the  monasteries.  First  the  monks  and 
then  the  nuns  had  to  depart,  and  the  convent  was  changed  to  a 
Protestant  house  of  devotion  called  Helgeands-hus,  or  House  of 
the  Holy  Ghost.  The  first  archbishop  of  Sweden  was  installed 
year  1531  in  the  presence  of  Gustavus  I.  in  this  old  Catholic 
church. 

During  the  time  of  Johan  III.  there  lived  on  the  old  premises 
the  notorious  "Kloister  Lasse,"  but  his  residence  there  was  not 
of  long  duration. 

During  the  two  reigns  of  Queen  Christina  and  Charles  XII. 
extensive  repairs  were  made.  Then  was  covered  up  an  old 
inscription  which  yet  to  this  day  is  worthy  of  earnest  considera- 
tion.    It  read  in  translation,  as  follows:    Six  reasons  have  been, 

449 


are  and  will  be  the  causes  of  the  misfortunes  in  Sweden:  Selfish- 
ness, Treacherous  hatred.  Contempt  for  the  laws,  Indifference 
for  the  general  welfare,  Thoughtless  favor  of  foreigners,  Stubborn 
envy  of  their  own  countrymen. 

The  name  of  the  Riddarholm's  Church  arose  during  the  mid- 
dle of  the  seventeenth  century. 

In  1806  the  pews  and  pulpit  were  removed  and  public  worship 
was  discontinued.  Now-a-day  no  other  functions  are  per- 
formed in  the  Riddarholm's  Church  than  those  at  royal  obsequies 
cr  solemn  memorial  festivals.  In  July,  1835,  the  tower  and  spire 
were  consumed  by  a  fire  which  lasted  three  days.  The  entire 
upper  part  of  the  church  was  destroyed.  During  the  years  1838- 
1846  the  temple  was  restored.    The  spire  is  now  of  cast  iron. 

The  principal  sepulchres  are: 

J.     The  Royal  Gustavian  family  vault. 

2.  The  Royal  Carolian  family  vault. 

3.  The  Royal  Bernadottean  family  vault. 

4.  The  Earls  Baner  family  vault. 

5.  The  Earls  Tortenson  family  vault.    • 

6.  The  Earls  Wachtmeister. 

7.  The  Earls  Lewenhaupt. 

8.  The  Earls  \'asaborg. 

9.  King  Charles  \TII.  Canuteson's  tomb. 
10.     King  Magnus  Ladulis'  (Barnlock)  tomb. 

The  royal  Gustavian  burial  vault  is  the  one  which  to  us 
Swedish-Americans  is  the  most  interesting.  Here  follows  an 
account  regarding  it: 

Gustavus  II.  Adolphus  before  departing  to  the  war  in  Poland, 
1629,  ordered  that  a  mausoleum  should  be  erected  for  him  by  the 
side  of  the  old  minster  on  the  Gray-friar  isle.  The  king  himself 
selected  the  site  in  the  place  where  formerly  the  Virgin  Mary's 
choir  and  altar  had  existed,  on  the  south  side  of  the  church, 
nearest  to  the  high  altar.  Here  consequently  was  erected,  but 
not  until  after  the  d^ath  of  the  king,  in  the  year  1633,  the  choir 
which  still  constitutes  the  resting  place  of  the  hero  king,  under 
the  suijcrintendence  of  Alderman  O.  P.  Bjugg.  The  mausoleim? 
is  built  of  brick,  with  sashes  and  ornaments  of  sandstone  in 
renaissance,  which  bears  strong  impress  of  the  Gothic,  and  has 
its  nearest  prototype  in  Holland.  The  roof,  which  is  a  copper- 
covered  cupola  with  a  spire,  terminates  in  an  apex  on  which  is 
represented  the  bird  Phoenix,  shedding  its  blood  for  its  progeny, 

450 


I 


and  above  that  a  cross,  all  richly  gilt.  Outside  the  wall,  under 
the  cornice  there  is  engraven  in  potstonc  the  king's  motto: 
"Gloria  Altissimo  Suorum  Refugio"  (Honor  the  Highest,  the  Re- 
fuge of  His  own),  and  the  following  longer  inscription:  Scpultura 
Potentissimi  Principis  Gustavi  Magni,  D.  G.  Regnorum  Sueciae 
Regis  incomparabilis,  quo  Regno  undiquaque  hostibus  obsesso 
ad  Imperium  intravit,  pacatis  deinde  Danis  Moscoque  acPolono 
jnitioribus  factis,  Regnum  ampliavit;  summaque  prudentia 
gubernavit.  Tandem  retruso  Caesare  Germanisque  a  Papae 
deformatione  liberatis,  in  pugna  Lutzensi  \'ictor  heroici  obiit. 
Id.  Xovemb.  Anno  Domini  C13L3CXXXH.  Still  more  im- 
posing in  their  sublime  simplicity  sound  the  inscriptions  on  the 
tablets  below  the  seven  windows:  In  angustiis  intravit.  Pietatem 
amavit.  Hostes  prostravis.  Regnum  dilatavit.  Suecos  exaltavit. 
Oppressos  liberavit.  Moriens  triumphavit.  (Began  with  difficul- 
ties. Loved  piety.  Slew  warrior  hosts.  Enlarged  the  realm. 
Exalted  the  Swedes.  Liberated  the  oppressed.  In  death  victori- 
ous.)    A  more  glorious  obituary  was  never  indited. 

Furthest  away  in  the  back-ground  stands  a  sarcophagus  of 
dark  marble,  on  tlie  lid  of  which  lies  a  cushion  with  the  crown, 
scepter  and  sword.  The  inscription  lengthwise  on  the  front  is: 
Gustavus  Adolphus  Magnus  (Gustaf  Adolph  the  Great)  The 
marble  sarcophagus  was  by  Gustavus  III.  originally  ordered  for 
King  Adolf  Fredrik,  but  after  it  had  remained  unused  for  many 
years  Charles  XIV.  caused  the  coffin  of  Gustavus  Adolphus  to  be 
deposed  in  it  at  the  memorial  celebration  of  the  200th  anniversary 
of  the  hero-king.  The  royal  remains  are  enclosed  first  in  an 
oaken-casket,  which  is  covered  with  violet  velvet.  This  again 
is  enclosed  in  a  larger  casket  of  tin,  ornated  with  coats  of  arms 
and  profuse  embellishments.  Among  these  inscriptons  we  will 
only  remind  of  one  referring  to  the  Second  Epistle  of  Paul  to 
Timothy,  Chapter  IV,  verse  5-7:  "But  watch  thou  in  all  things, 
endure  afflictions,  do  the  work  of  an  evangelist,  make  full  proof 
of  thy  ministry." 

"For  I  am  ready  to  be  offered,  and  the  time  of  my  departure 
is  at  hand." 

"I  have  fought  a  good  fight,  I  have  finished  my  couise,  I  have 
kept  the  faith." 

King  Gustavus  II.  Adolphus  was  born  Dec.  9,  1594,  and 
was  killed  at  the  battle  of  Liitzen,  Nov.  6,  1632. 

451 


His  successors  on  the  throne  conferred  on  him  the  epiteth  of 
great. 

At  the  head  of  the  king  stands  a  richly  embroidered  banner, 
which  His  Majesty  King  Oscar  caused  to  be  made  for  the  mem- 
orial celebration  of  1882,  and  on  that  solemn  occasion  placed 
here  with  his  own  hand.  The  numerous  wreaths  and  memorial 
tablets,  which  at  the  grand  jubilee  of  1894  were  sent  by  the  royal 
family  of  Sweden,  and  the  people  generally,  and  also  from  Ger- 
many and  Finland  to  the  tomb  of  Gustavus  Adolphus,  lie  still 
scattered  on  the  sarcophagus,  or  on  the  floor,  or  are  raised  against 
the  walls,  wheresoever  a  place  could  be  found. 

Behind  the  sarcophagus,  stands  enclosed  in  covering  for  better 
preservation,  the  field-banner  of  Gustavus  Adolphus,  and  also 
an  old  color-standard,  which,  under  the  name  of  the  Royal  Ban- 
ner of  Sweden,  formerly  was  kept  in  the  cathedral  of  Stockholm. 

In  the  upper  part  of  the  sepulchre  is  also  placed  the  coffin  of 
Gustavus  Adolphus'  spouse,  Queen  Maria  Eleonora.  Her  re- 
mains are  also  kept  in  an  oaken-casket,  covered  with  violet  vel- 
vet, enclosed  in  a  larger,  costly,  and  artistically  ornated  casket 
of  tin.  At  the  head-gable  it  is  decorated  with  the  escutcheons  of 
Sweden  and  Brandenburg,  and  on  the  other  sides  embellished 
with  Latin  inscriptions  and  profuse  ornaments  in  embossed  work. 
The  lid  has  on  the  edge  eight  silvered  seraphs,  with  expanded 
gilded  wings  which  support  a  beautiful  crucifix  of  tin. 

Queen  Maria  Eleonora,  Princess  of  Brandenburg,  was  born 
in  Berlin,  1599.  In  1620  she  was  married  to  Gustavus  II. 
Adolphus,  and  died  in  Stockholm  1655. 

In  the  burial  vault  beneath  about  a  score  of  other  royal  and 
princely  personages  are  entombed. 

The  church  was  full  of  people  at  this,  my  visit.  Consequently 
I  was  not  impressed  as  solemnly  as  last  time  on  standing  before 
the  tomb  of  the  greatest  son  of  Sweden,  who  was  of  such  great 
significance  not  only  to  Sweden,  but  to  the  world  at  large  for  all 
succeeding  ages. 

The  royal  Carolian  sepulchre  is  exactly  opposite  the  Gus- 
tavian.  The  admission  to  each  is  debarred  by  means  of  iron- 
gratings  since  my  last  visit,  three  years  ago. 

The  upper  sepulchre  contains  three  sarcophagi.  The  one 
furthest  away  in  the  back-ground  holds  the  remains  ol  King 
Charles  XII.  This  sarcophagus  is  of  dark  marble,  and  has  on 
its  lid  a  lion-hide  of  brass,  on  which  is  placed  the  royal  insignia 

45^ 


of  crown,  sceptre  and  sword.  On  a  forward  pendant  flap  of 
the  lion-hide  is  seen  the  simple  but  eloquent  inscription:  "Caro- 
lus  XII.,"  King  Charles  XII.,  was  born  at  the  old  castle  of 
Stockholm,  called  "Three  Crowns,"  June  7,  1682,  and  was  killed 
by  a  random  shot  at  the  fortress  of  Fredrikssten  in  Norway, 
November  30,  1718. 

Regarding  the  Bernadotte  royal  family  vault,  that  of  the 
present  reigning  dynasty, — we  are  informed  that  in  size  and  style 
it  accords  with  the  Gustavian,  and  as  regards  furnishing  and 
decorations,  is  the  most  splendid  part  of  the  whole  church.  It 
was  erected  at  the  expense  of  the  royal  family,  1858-60,  by  Pro- 
fessor F.  V.  Scholander,  but  the  decoration  of  the  interior  has 
only  been  completed  during  the  reign  of  Oscar  II.  The  three 
tall  window^s  are  encased  in  sashes  of  potstone  and  rose- 
carvings,  and  ornamented  with  colored  glass-paintings,  which, 
among  other  things,  represent  the  royal  arms  of  Sweden,  all  the 
escutcheons  of  the  many  provinces,  and  the  mottoes  of  the  kings 
of  the  Bernadotte  dynasty.  The  walls  are  decorated  with  al- 
fresco paintings,  and  memorial  tablets,  which,  in  brief  and  pithy 
sentences,  record  the  most  important  incidents  in  the  eventful  life 
of  Charles  XIV.  Johan  (Bernadotte).  In  the  arcade-planes  above 
are  represented  the  four  cardinal  virtues,  symbolized  by  female 
figures  having  their  names  inscribed  in  Latin:  Clementia  (Clem- 
ency), Justitia  (Justice),  Sapentia  (Wisdom),  Fortitudo  (Forti- 
tude). Above  the  arcade-opening,  towards  the  nave,  a  long  rib- 
bon-scrip reads:  "I  know  that  my  Redeemer  liveth,  and  that  He 
shall  awaken  me  on  the  day  of  judgment." 

In  the  upper  sepulchre  stands  the  colossal  sarcophagus  of 
King  Charles  XVI.  Johan.  It  is  made  of  red  porphyry,  at  the 
Elfdal  porphyry  works  in  Delecarlia,  at  the  expense  of  King 
Oscar  I.  The  making  of  it  took  a  time  of  eight  years,  and  it 
weighs  15,000  kilograms,  or  equally  with  the  sheets  of  copper 
Avhich  it  took  to  cover  the  roof  of  the  church,  after  the  fire  of 
T835.  The  sarcophagus  is  an  imitation  of  the  Roman  General 
A.grippa's  tomb,  which  is  erected  in  the  Vatican  at  Rome.  When 
it  arrived  at  the  church  a  gang  of  fifty  mariners  were  required 
to  bring  it  into  its  position.  Where  it  now  stands  it  constitutes 
a  worthy  resting-place  for  the  founder  of  the  Bernadotte  dynasty, 
at  the  same  time  it  is  a  beautiful  sample  of  the  noble  material 
of  which  it  is  m.ade,  and  the  diligence  and  artisanship  required  to 
compel  hard  porphyry  to  yield  such  fine  shape  and  polish. 

453 


Charles  XIV.  Johan  was  born  1764 — and  died  1844. 

In  the  lower  sepulchre  rest  the  following  members  of  the 
jpresent  royal  house: 

Queen  Desideria,  the  consort  of  Charles  XIV.  Johan,  born 
1781,  died  in  Stockholm  i860. 

King  Oscar  I.,  born  1799,  died  in  Stockholm  1859. 

His  consort,  Queen  Josephine,  Princess  of  Leuchtenberg, 
born  1807,  died  in  Stockholm  1876. 

Prince  Frans  Gustaf  Oscar,  Duke  of  Upland,  born  1827 — -died 
1852. 

King  Charles  XV.,  born  1827 — died  in  Malmo  1872. 

His  consort.  Queen  Louisa,  Princess  of  Holland,  born  1828 — 
died  in  Stockholm  1871. 

Prince  Charles  Oscar  Willian  Fredrik,  Duke  of  Soderman- 
land,  born  1852 — died  1858,  only  son  of  Charles  XV.  and  his 
royal  consort. 

Prince  Nicholas  August,  Duke  of  Dalecarlia,  born  1831 — died 

1873- 

Princess  Eugenia,  born  1830 — died  1889. 

All  the  caskets  kept  here  are  of  oak,  with  cover  of  velvet, 
which,  for  the  crowned  heads,  are  purple,  and  for  the  others,  blue. 
Tliie  velvet  is  adorned  with  gilt  crowns,  and  name-tablets  of  silver 
affixed  to  the  head-ends  of  all  the  coffins. 

We  stopped  also  with  much  reverence  in  front  of  the  coffin 
of  General  Lennart  Tortstensson  at  the  sepulchre  which  bears 
his  name. 

No  less  than  600  trophies  are  said  to  be  kept  in  this  sanctu- 
ary of  glorious  memories. 

A  remarkable  hour  for  us  Swedish-Americans.  We  felt  as 
if  we  had  become  somewhat  more  Swedish  after  the  solemn  hour 
we  had  spent  in    the    Riddarholm's  church. 

To  my  readers,  however,  I  will  give  this  advice:  do  not  visit 
it  during  the  official  hours.  Arrange  with  the  attendant  for  a 
special  time,  and  your  visit  will  be  doubly  valuable. 

During  our  Sunday  in  Stockholm  we  visited  the  cathedral 
at  high-mass.  I  wanted  to  see  and  hear  my  friend,  Kjellman- 
Goranson,  co-minister  or  perpetual  curate,  at  the  church.  It  is 
a  great  and  beautiful  sanctuary,  and  the  attendant  congregation 
was  by  no  means  small.  A  constant  stream  of  perambulating 
tourists,  however,  deprived  us,  in  a  great  degree,  of  beseeming  de- 

454 


votioii.  It  is  an  exceedingly  unbecoming  custom  that  is  allowed 
in  Stockholm  in  permitting  tourists  to  come  in,  wander  about 
and  go  out  of  the  church  during  both  altar-service  and  sermon. 
May  this  pernicious  habit  be  inhibited. 

The  high-mass  was  in  other  respects  beautiful,  and  the  organ 
music  brisk,  fine  and  evoking  devotion.  The  pulpit  is  almost  in 
the  center  of  the  church,  which  has  three  naves. 

The  sermon  was  good  and  instructive  to  those  who  listened 
attentively.  Here  are  a  few  expressions:  "The  freely  chosen 
aim  is  the  law  for  our  development  and  work.  The  law  to  us  is  the 
personality  of  Jesus  Christ"  (Now,  the  text  was  read;  6th  Sun- 
day after  Trinity),  and  the  subject  given:  "What  that  love  is 
which  is  the  consummation  of  the  law."  ist.  Ideal;  2d,  Pure; 
3d,  Self-denying;  4th,  Sincere;  5th,  Conciliating  and  beneficent. 
After  the  termination  of  the  sermon  we  saw  the  remarkable 
sights  of  the  church,  met  acquaintances  from  America,  among 
them  a  Mr.  Anderson  from  Minneapolis.  The  horrible  altar- 
piece  representing  "the  Day  of  Judgment,"  still  remains.  The 
picture  in  itself  is  a  master-piece,  but  the  idea  is  carnal  and  blood- 
curdling. For  my  part,  I  think  that  such  art  hurts  the  Kingdom 
of  God,  not  least  with  those  w'ho  ought  to  have  the  most  use 
thereof. 

Stockholm  has  many  fine  sanctuaries.  I  have  visited,  besides 
those  already  mentioned,  also  the  new  Johannes,  Clara,  Oster- 
malms,  Jacobs  and  Blasieholm's  churches. 

Foreigners  often  get  the  impression  that  the  Stockholm  peo- 
ple are  indifferent  church-goers.  For  my  part,  I  have  found 
it  to  be  quite  the  reverse.  One  of  the  secretaries  of  the  British 
legation  said:  "I  have  visited  the  Stockholm  churches  time  and 
again,  and  if  I  may  judge  by  what  I  have  seen,  I  hold  the  Swedes 
to  be  the  most  irreligious  people  I  know  of."  Either  he  has  had 
bad  luck,  or  else  I  have  been  exceedingly  fortunate.  One  thing, 
however,  is  certain,  the  entire  Christian  world  has  much  need  of 
more  diligently  frequenting  the  churches  than  what  is  the  case, 
for  it  is  essentially  thereby  that  the  conscience  of  the  nations,  as 
well  as  that  of  the  individual,  is  to  be  kept  aroused  and  sympa- 
thetic. Then  the  clergymen  must  preach  the  word  of  God  alone 
and  not  talk  about  anything  in  the  sacred  place. 

If  the  preachers  are  conscientious  they  will  faithfully  prepare 
themselves  for  their  sermons,  if  they  are  prudent  and  warm- 
hearted they  will  abstain  from  quarreling  in  the  pulpits,  and  if 

455 


they  have  sense  to  finish  in  time,  the  people  usually  will  appre- 
ciate all  this  and  diligently  frequent  the  church. 

Long  sermons  and  inferior  ones  are  destructive.  A  well- 
known  Westgothian  said  once:  "Our  dear  pastor  is  so  anxious 
that  we  should  perfectly  comprehend  what  he  says,  that  he  re- 
peats the  same  Uiing  over  and  over  agam." 


456 


CHAPTER  XXXIV. 

A  Day  at  Gripsholm. 

We  went  one  lovely  summer  morning  by  steamer  to  the  beau- 
tiful and,  with  good  reason,  famous  castle  of  Gripsholm. 

Our  choice  was  evidently  popular,  for  it  was  really  unpleas- 
antly crowded  on  board  the  fast-going  little  steamer.  The  passen- 
gers were  mostly  Americans,  Germans  and  Norwegians. 

Shortly  before  nine  we  passed  by  "the  King's  Hat,"  which 
legendary  bluf¥  rose  aloft  as  of  yore.  Thereafter  Norsholm, 
Sturehof,  Kaggeholm,  Bjorko,  Stambo,  Rafsnas,  Nasby,  Lofnas, 
and  Ekensberg. 

A  trip  on  the  lake.  Malar,  in  fine  weather  is  exceedingly  de- 
lightful. God  has  been  liberal  in  scattering  beauty  in  the  en- 
virons of  Stockholm.  What  is  there  lacking,  or  ought  possibly 
to  be  there,  which  isn't  found  there  already?  What  other  capital 
in  the  whole  world  possesses  such  surroundings?  We  Swedish- 
Americans  think  and  speak  of  "the  Queen  city  of  Lake  Millar" 
with  justified  pride.  Being  generally  more  bold  than  our  breth- 
ren at  home,  we  dare  more  loudly  and  enthusiastically  declare 
the  claims  of  Svea,  our  mother-country,  so  dearly  beloved  by  us. 

It  was  a  particularly  fine  voyage,  but  when  we  arrived  we 
were  virtually  entranced.  Wliat  an  extraordinarily  beautiful  site 
the  castle  of  Gripsholm  possesses!  On  having  entered  the  old 
castle  of  Gripsholm,  which  now-a-days  is  a  large  and  unusually 
interesting  museum,  we  enjoyed  from  the  windows  time  and 
again  the  most  fascinating  views. 

I  must  now  quote  from  my  little  book  some  interesting  things 
about  the  history  of  the  castle: 

Eric  Goransson  Tegel  wrote  in  his  "History  of  Gust'avus  I." 
about  the  present  castle:  "About  the  time  of  St.  Lawrence  (Aug. 

459 


loth)  King  Gustavus  laid  the  foundation  and  erected  the  castle  of 
Gripsholm  on  the  isle  on  which  it  now  stands." 

With  the  intention  that  it  should  also  serve  as  a  fortress,  the 
castle  was  provided  with  particularly  strong  walls,  (in  the  nether 
stories  of  the  towers  lo  to  12  feet  thick,)  pallisades  were  arranged 
all  around  the  shore,  and  a  draw-bridge  formed  communication 
with  the  mainland.  That  King  Gustavus  frequently  resided  here 
is  evident  from  the  many  decrees  and  circulating  letters  issued 
by  him,  and  dated  from  here.  Here  was  also  celebrated  with  a 
grand  banquet  the  federation  of  royal  heirs,  decreed  at  Vesteris. 
That  part  of  the  castle  which  then  was  completed  must  have 
consisted  of  the  Grip  and  Vasa-towers,  with  the  long  building 
connecting  them,  (without  the  little  wing  in  the  outer  court-yard, 
which  was  added  towards  the  end  of  the  century,)  together  with 
the  continuation  reaching  the  theater-tower. 

In  1572  the  castle  of  Gripsholm  was  assigned  to  the  youngest 
son,  Prince  Charles,  Duke  of  Sodermanland,  who  then  recently 
had  become  of  age.  Both  as  Duke,  and  later  as  King  Charles 
IX.  he  often  resided  here,  and  continued  and  completed  the  erec- 
tion of  the  castle  in  its  original  shape.  After  the  death  of  Charles 
IX.  the  castle  was  assigned  as  Dowager  residence  to  his  relict, 
Christina  of  Holstein,  (who  even  expired  here  1625). 

Maria  Eleonora,  the  Queen  of  Gustavus  II.  Adolphus  was 
also  assigned  this  castle  as  Dowager  residence,  and  from  here 
started  on  her  famous  flight  from  Sweden. 

This  first  historical  period  of  the  castle's  erection — its  Vasa- 
era — terminated  when  the  consort  of  Charles  X.,  Hedvig  Eleo- 
nora of  Holstein,  received  Gripsholm,  together  with  other  vast 
feifs  as  jointure.  She  often  resided  here  herself,  and  her  son. 
Charles  XL,  and  her  grandson,  Charles  XII.,  also  at  times  lived 
at  Gripsholm.  The  dow^ager  queen-regent  had  several  altera- 
tions made,  both  exterior  and  interior,  of  the  castle.  The  most 
important  of  these  was  the  taking  down  of  the  steep  roofs,  the 
rebuilding  of  the  garret-story,  and  the  additions  of  what  was 
called  the  queen's  wing,  consisting  of  basement  and  two  stories. 
This  is  called  the  jointure-period,  or  Carolian-era. 

During  the  reign  of  Gustavus  III.  there  came  again  a  new 
period  for  the  old  Vasa-castle,  which  was  considerably  modern- 
ized; the  present  theater  w^as  arranged  in  what  was  formerly 
called  the  church-tower;  the  old  church  which  had  been  located 
here  had  been  despoiled  already  in  1738.     To  the  queen's  wing 

460 


were  added  three  low  stories,  and  the  wing  for  "the  gentlemen- 
in-waiting"  was  erected  in  the  outer  court-yard.  A  number  of 
rooms  were  altered,  and  most  of  the  doors  and  windows  enlarged. 
The  character  of  this,  the  Gustavian  period  still  obtains  in  much. 

The  exterior  of  the  castle,  however,  was  completely  repaired 
in  the  1820's,  and  important  alterations  in  the  exterior  have  taken 
place  during  the  reigns  of  Charles  XIV.,  Oscar  I.  and  Charles 
XV. 

In  our  own  days  the  "Gripsholm  Society,"  which  was  or- 
ganized 1889,  has  been  active  for  the  restoration  of  the  castle  in 
historical  respects,  and  under  the  auspices  of  His  Majesty  the 
King,  and  with  his  powerful  aid,  this  has  now,  1897,  been  accom- 
plished, so  that  while  retaining  the  character  of  the  i6th  century, 
which  has  hitherto  prevailed  in  the  exterior,  the  interior  01  the 
castle  can  show  various  groups  of  rooms  from  different  periods 
of  its  history. 

The  castle  of  Gripsholm  was  originally  surrounded  on  all 
sides  by  water,  and  a  draw-bridge  led  across  the  narrow  sound 
which  separated  the  castle-isle  from  the  mainland.  This  sound 
was  filled  up  by  Gustavus  III.,  who  also  made  the  two  roads, 
which  led  from  the  town  of  Mariefred,  close  by,  and  from  the 
royal  farm-yard  to  the  castle.  The  old  sound  has  again  been 
opened,  and  the  draw-bridge  connects  across  as  of  yore. 

The  long  building,  facing  the  sound,  which,  during  the  joint- 
ure-period, was  the  residence  of  the  chief-warden,  is  likely  to  con- 
tain remnants  of  the  original  mediaeval  castle  situated  here;  the 
redoubt  on  the  right  has  since  long  time  ago  been  called  "the 
old  redoubt." 

A  gable  has  been  erected  in  later  times  over  the  great  en- 
trance vault,  wdiich  is  adorned  with  the  royal  coat-of-arms,  and 
portraits  in  bas  relief  of  Gustavus  Vasa  and  Charles  IX.,  upper- 
most with  the  regal  crown. 

The  ponderous  oaken  doors  are  the  original  ones  from  the 
Vasa-period,  and  the  great  entrance  vault  has  been  restored  to  its 
old  condition,  star-emblazoned,  and  with  three  crow^ns,  and  bor- 
der in  red  color.  On  entering  into  the  outer  court-yard  one  is 
surrounded  by  buildings  from  different  periods.  The  lower  wing 
on  the  right,  the  residence  of  the  chief-warden,  belongs  to  the 
Vasa-period.  The  tall  wing  for  the  "gentlemen-in-waiting"  on 
the  left,  with  twenty-eight  guest-rooms,  divided  into  four  low 
stories,  replaced  in  the  time  of  Gustavus  III.  the  fortified  ram- 

461 


part,  which,  together  with  a  smaller  rampart  on  the  other  side, 
surrounded  what  was  termed  the  "fore-castle."  In  the  fore- 
ground rises  aloft  the  Grip-tower,  with  its  embrasures,  and  iron- 
grated  windows,  on  the  left  stands  the  Vasa-tower,  on  the  right 
the  prison-tower,  and  furthest  away  rears  the  theater-tower  (the 
former  church-tower)  its  massive  walls. 

In  front  of  the  Grip-tower  lie  two  big  and  richly  ornamented 
bronze  cannons,  which  Pontus  de  la  Gardie,  1581,  captured  from 
the  Russians  at  Ivanovgorod,  of  old  called  the  Boar  and  the  Sow 
(the  Russian  inscriptions  designate  them  both  as  "the  Wolf"). 
They  have  of  late  been  provided  with  gun-carriages,  in  faithful 
imitation  of  those  in  use  in  the  i6th  century. 

Through  the  vaulted  entrance,  close  by  the  Grip-tower,  one 
arrives  at  the  inner  court-yard,  an  irregular  sex-angle,  sur- 
rounded by  long  buildings  of  the  original  castle.  After  the  re- 
cently completed  restoration  this  court-yard  now  appears  as  it 
did  during  the  Vasa-period  of  the  castle. 

The  walls,  which  were  reduced  in  height  during  Hedvig  Eleo- 
nora,  have  been  raised  to  their  former  altitude,  the  window- 
sashes  with  painted  ornamental  scrolls,  and  lintels  in  red  color, 
have  been  brought  out  and  completed.  The  "Karnapet,"  in 
carved  oak,  rises  as  of  old  over  the  tall  stair  in  the  lower  corner 
of  the  yard,  and  through  the  open  gates  in  the  basement  one 
looks  down  into  the  great  vaults  and  cellars. 

The  stone-stairs  used  now-a-days  were  built  by  Gustavus  III. 

We  wandered  through  47  rooms,  all  with  interesting  collec- 
tions, pictures  and  memories  everywhere.  Here  we  have  Hedvig 
Eleonora's  suit,  the  Vasa-rooms,  the  state  council-hall,  Duke 
Charles'  apartment,  called  also  the  prison  of  Johan  HI.,  and 
"Sigismund's  chamber,"  the  great  royal  suit,  with  large  and  beau- 
tiful saloons,  drawir.g-iooms  and  boudoirs,  hall  of  state,  bed- 
rooms, one  of  these  latter  the  state-prison  of  Gustavus  IV.  Adol- 
phus  in  1809, — council  chamber,  etc.  In  the  garret-story  were 
the  theater  of  Gustavus  HI.,  guest-rooms,  the  prison  of  Eric 
XIV.,  the  armory,  and  the  study  of  Gustavus  HI.,  with  extensive 
and  beautiful  view. 

The  lower  armory  was,  during  the  Vasa-period,  often  used 
as  a  state-prison.  Here  were  incarcerated  amongst  others,  after 
the  massacre  in  Linkoping,  the  two  adherents  of  King  Sigus- 
mund,  viz.,  Stilarm  and  Kurck,  and  on  the  walls  is  yet  visible  an 
inscription  made  by  one  of  them  with  red  chalk. 

462 


In  one  of  the  great  halls  we  saw  many  mottoes  on  the  walls. 
The  reader  will  thank  me  for  quoting  some  few  of  them  which 
I  thought  the  most  striking:  "To  fear  Grod  is  to  have  peace  and 
health."  'Tearing  God  is  to  make  the  country  safe."  "The  law 
is  the  making  of  the  land."  "With  law  and  justice  you  praise 
the  Lord."  "You  rest  best  in  your  home."  "Deus  cui  vult." 
"Terram  geris,  teris,  eris."  "Love  is  more  potent  than  spears 
and  shields."  "Knowledge  increases  manhood."  "Art  needs 
fortune  and  fortune  art."  "God's  will  has  always  the  choice." 
"Non  sine  pace  salus,  non  sine  rege  fides."  "Knowledge  begets 
honors;  wisdom  without  being  used  is  like  salt  without  saline- 
ness."     "Concordia  res  parvae  crescunt." 

At  last  we  visited  the  dungeon,  in  which  Abraham  Anger- 
manus  was  kept  prisoner  and  died.  Cold  shivers  went  through 
me  at  the  sight.  It  is  after  all  a  good  thing  to  live  in  our  new, 
clement  and  more  humane  times.  Those  who  talk  about  tho 
good  old  times  are  dreamers,  for  anyone  who  is  wide-awake  and 
knows  what  he  is  saying,  cannot  but  thank  God,  that  "the  good 
old  times,"  have  past,  and  that  for  ever. 

He  had  to  be  pitied,  indeed,  who  fell  iiito  the  clutches  of  his 
enemies  in  "the  good  old  times." 

We  wandered  about,  and  afterwards  rested  ourselves  in  the 
beautiful  park.  The  return  voyage  was  particularly  beautiful 
and  pleasant.  I  met  among  the  passengers  a  warm-hearted  and 
uncommonly  nice  merchant  from  Hernosand,  with  whom  I  had 
already  become  acquainted  in  that  city. 

In  Stockholm  and  its  environs  there  are  so  many  things  to 
be  seen,  that  one  almost  becomes  despaired.  No  tourist  has  time 
enough  for  it  all,  that  is  the  fault.  This  summer  I  scarcely  found 
time  to  hunt  up  a  single  old  acquaintance,  nor  to  make  more  than 
only  some  few  new  ones,  for  we  had  to  make  haste  in  order  to 
see,  look  and  behold. 

One  day  we  spent  a  few  ever-memorable  hours  out  at  Li- 
dingo,  with  the  widow  and  children  of  the  late  litterateur,  Arvid 
Ahnfelt.  We  also  m.et  his  sister,  Miss  Josepha  Ahnfelt,  lady- 
principal  of  a  girls'  school  in  Landskrona,  and  daughter  of  Dean 
Paul  Ahnfelt,  the  author  of  "A  Student's  Reminiscences."  An- 
other day  I  spent  a  few  memorable  hours  at  "Little  Japan,"  near 
Vaxholm,  with  my  friend  and  colleague,  the  pastor  and  author,  J. 
Seleen,  and  his  wife  and  daughter.  There  have  our  neighbors  from 
Fremont  found  a  resting-place,  which  seemed  to  be  very  suitable 

463 


for  them.  Pastor  Seleen  has  expended  his  strength  with  us  in 
America  in  a  faithful  service  of  twenty-five  years.  His  numer- 
ous friends  will  be  delighted  to  hear  that  his  health  has  already 
much  improved  through  his  sojourn  in  Sweden.  May  he  be 
fully  restored! 

Mr.  Larson,  of  the  firm  of  Larson  Bros.,  showed  me  much 
kindness.  The  Swedish-Americans  in  Stockholm  will  do  well  to 
confer  with  him  regarding  their  return  voyage,  and  such  things. 
My  most  hearty  thanks  I  send  all  the  wav  from  here  to  him. 


464 


CHAPTER  XXXV, 

Upsala,  Denmark  and  Old  Upsala. 

The  headquarters  for  Swedish  culture,  as  everybody  knows, 
is  called  Upsala.  How  then,  could  a  Swedish-American  visit 
Sweden  without  making  a  call  at  Upsala,  although  the  famous 
university-city  in  summer  time  looks  like  a  bee-hive,  whose 
inhabitants  have  suddenly  flown  away  somewhere  else.  The 
university-buildings  and  the  cathedral,  however,  fortunately  re- 
main even  in  the  summer. 

My  American  good  luck  stuck  to  me  everywhere  in  Sweden. 
At  the  railway  depot  I  quite  unexpectedly  met  the  two  profes- 
sors, Berggren  and  Tottie,  and  Pastor  Holm.  This  gave  rise  to 
quite  a  number  of  charming  items  to  us  Americans  on  this  part 
of  our  Swedish  program.  The  first  was  that  Pastor  Holm  be- 
came our  amiable  cicerone  in  the  newly  restored  grand  cathedral. 

On  entering  I  stopped  abruptly,  astonished,  experiencing  the 
most  ineffable  joy  and  admiration.  I  had  had  the  advantage 
of  seeing  the  cathedral  at  Cologne,  the  Notre  Dame  in  Paris,  St. 
Paul  and  Westminster  Abbey,  in  London  and  several  other 
cathedrals  and  minsters,  but  none  of  them  had  made  such  an 
impression  on  me  as  the  restored  cathedral  of  Upsala. 

Perhaps  my  ardent  feeling  for  old  Sweden  partly  caused  it. 
Perhaps  Upsala  itself  had  made  me  somewhat  color-blind,  and 
dazed  and"  confused  in  my  judgment,  but  I  would  scarcely  believe 
that.  Enter  the  sanctuary,  stranger,  and  you  also  will  stop  and 
gaze  in  admiration.  Don't  you  feel  how  light  and  airy,  yea,  I 
may  say,  elevating,  these  proportions  are?  Do  you  not  perceive 
their  height,  their  Gothic  purity,  their  very  celestial  impress? 
The  massiveness  is  not  wanting  either.  It  is  accomplished.  It 
is  completed.  Our  principal  Swedish-Lutheran  sanctuary  easily 
retains  a  foremost  position. 

465 


Some  adverse  criticisms  have  appeared  about  this  cathedral. 
Who  cannot  find  fault?  But  no  one  will  cut  off  a  pinion,  because 
one  of  the  little  feathers  happens  to  be  black;  nor  does  one  con- 
demn an  organ  because  one  of  the  keys  is  not  like  the  others  in 
appearance. 

Leave  off  criticising.  Admire,  instead,  in  silence  and  be 
thankful  at  heart.  The  Swedish  fault-finding  must  be  left  out- 
side this  time. 

Now  I  will  allow  Mr.  Frolen,  Master  of  Arts,  to  speak  for 
a  while.     He  says: 

"The  cathedral  of  Upsala  is  the  only  one  in  Sweden  from 
mediaeval  times  which  is  thoroughly  Gothic  in  style.  It  is  the 
largest  in  Scandinavia.  Its  exterior  length  measures  118.7  meters 
or  400  feet,  and  the  tower  of  the  northern  facade  reaches  the 
same  in  height.  The  interior  width  is  45  meters,  and  the  height 
under  the  central  arch  27.3  meters.  Compared  with  this,  the 
cathedral  of  Trondhjem,  its  rival  in  the  north,  only  reaches  101.3 
meters,  or  341  feet,  in  length,  but  at  one  point  surpasses  the  dome 
of  Upsala  with  2.4  meters,  or  8  feet.  Of  Swedish  churches  there 
is  no  one  rivaling  that  of  Upsala,  whether  in  height,  or  breadth. 

The  ground-plan  is  perfectly  regular,  and  indicates  a  French 
origin.  And  the  earliest  known  builder  is  even  a  Frenchman, 
Etienne  de  Bounueil,  who  was  called  in  1287  to  erect  the  church 
"in  accordance  with  the  structure  of  Notre  Dame  in  Paris."  Yet 
it  presents  in  plan  and  construction  far  less  resemblance  to  that 
French  cathedral  than  to  those  in  Rheims,  Amiens  or  Rouen-and 
other  purely  Gothic  churches  in  the  north  of  France.  The 
cathedral  of  Upsala  consists  of  three  naves  or  arched-ways,  of 
which  the  center  one  is  twice  as  high  and  wide  as  the  two  side 
naves.  Along  these  latter  a  long  row  of  side-chapels  range  in  the 
exterior  v/alls,  separated  from  each  other  by  means  of  intersecting 
walls.  If  these  chapels  are  taken  into  account  the  church  appears 
to  have  five  naves,  and  a  certain  resemblance  to  Notre  Dame, 
which  ])esides  the  five  naves  has  a  similar  row  of  chapels  on 
each  side. 

But  Upsala  cathedral,  however,  shows  a  far  less  ambitious 
plan  than  its  French  compeers.  The  transept  thus  contains  only 
one  single  nave  of  the  same  width  as  the  central  one,  but  this  is 
still  sufficient  to  give  the  church  the  characteristic  French  cruci- 
form. The  lofty  central  nave,  lighted  by  the  windows  above  the 
side  aisles,  continues  beyond  the  central  cross  to  the  choir,  while 

466 


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the  side-naves  are  continued  by  a  somewhat  longer  semi-curved 
aisle,  called  the  choir-passage  around  the  same.  The  five  princi- 
pal sepulchre-choirs  issue  from  this  passage,  forming  exteriorly 
a  sidereal  structure.  This  original  ground-plan  is  yet  today 
obtaining  for  the  church  and  has  only  once  received  any  consid- 
erable complement,  namely  towards  the  end  of  the  middle-ages, 
when  in  imitation  of  the  ecclesiastical  style  of  the  German 
Hanse-towns  two  heav}-  square  brick  towers  were  added  to  the 
western  gable. 

Regarding  the  interior  erection  and  architectural  details  these 
have  by  the  latest  restoration,  been  subjected  to  an  almost  com- 
plete re-creation.  The  great  columns,  which  support  the  main 
nave's  seven  rectangular  Roman  groined  vaults,  have  all  by  more 
or  less  rebuilding  been  restored  to  their  original  shape — the 
Gothic,  clustered  column.  Only  the  choir-section  and  central 
cross-joint  furnished  for  the  restoration  genuine  such  columns  of 
limestone,  supported  by  a  multi-angular  plinth,  ornamented  with 
foliage,  which  rose  successively  in  greater  or  smaller  projectures, 
all  of  it  at  the  top  surrounded  by  an  entablement,  ornated  with 
foliage  and  allegorical  figures.  The  choir-columns  have  thus, 
after  being  divested  of  the  calcimining,  with  which  all  the  interior 
architecture  repeatedly  has  been  covered — not  been  so  very  dif- 
ficult to  restore. 

The  case  has  been  different  with  the  14  large  columns  in  the 
long  central-nave.  After  an  accident,  which  happened  in  May, 
1402,  when  the  entire  southern  long  nave  collapsed  with  its  vaults 
and  columns,  on  account  of  a  landslip,  caused  by  the  foundation 
resting  on  a  thick,  soft  lair  on  the  slanting  rock-bed,  these 
columns  did  not  recover  their  original  form.  Square,  uncouth 
lumps  of  brick  and  mortar  were,  instead,  constructed  on  the  south 
side,  which  were  to  replace  the  former  lightsome  supports,  with 
their  clusters  of  bricks  in  profile,  while  the  remaining  colunms  on 
the  north  side,  so  as  not  to  clash  with  this  vandalism,  sinuiltane- 
ouslv  were  remoulded  into  similar  clumsy,  massive  columns.  All 
this  has  been  fully  confirmed  during  the  work  of  recent  years.  It 
has  ever  been  made  evident  that  the  aforesaid  caving-in  probably 
occurred  during  work  in  the  long  nave,  because  some  columns 
on  the  north  side  had  not  had  time  to  get  their  corner-leaves  fully 
chiseled  on  the  plinths,  ere  they  were  remodeled  in  the  aforesaid 
manner.  These  colunms  are  now  all.  with  the  exception  of  the 
very  core,  partly  new-made,  partly  peeled  and  re-dressed  with 

471 


finely  cut  limestones  in  profiles.  Socles,  clusters  and  entable- 
ments now  possess  similar  uniform  early-Gothic  form  as  the 
choir-circle's  columns.  This  work  has,  of  course,  been  united 
with  great  trouble  and  expense,  but  was  first  of  all  necessary,  be- 
cause the  columns,  next  the  arches  and  vaults,  constitute  the 
parts  which  before  anything  else  bestow  character  and  sacred 
impress  to  such  an  edifice. 

All  the  columns  along  the  grand  aisle  support  lo  rectangular, 
pointed  vaults,  to  which  are  added,  where  the  long  naves  and 
transept  intersect  each  other,  the  imposing,  quadrangular  "cor- 
onation vault,"  and  the  choir's  foremost  mani-sidereal  vaulted 
cupola.  To  these  join  later  the  side  aisles'  only  half  as  wide, 
quadrangular  vaults.  They  are  all  of  a  light  and  elegant  con- 
struction, contrary  to  the  Roman  churches'  great  and  heavy 
vaults.  Here,  where,  as  in  all  Gothic  fanes,  the  attention  is 
drawn  to  the  slender  upward  striving  forms,  those  airy  arches  and 
fascias  interchanging  in  rapid  variation,  which  with  their  perspec- 
tive vistas  make  the  whole  a  grand  picture  of  life  and  motion. 
To  these  are  added  also  the  four  rectangular  vaults,  of  which 
two  on  each  side  of  the  "coronation  vault"  cover  the  transepts 
and  the  vault-cupolas  over  the  numerous  chapels,  supported  by 
interior  buttresses.  Most  of  them  have,  like  their  supporting 
and  intersecting  arches  and  sidereal  vaults,  been  subjected  to  a 
more  orless  severe  restoration.  The  same  obtains  with  the  mighty 
and  lofty  arcade  arches,  which  open  into  the  side-naves  and 
unite  all  into  one  single  vast  space.  An  exacting  style  would 
have  demanded  that  above  these  an  open  gallery  or  so-called 
"triforium,"  supported  by  small  pillars,  ornated  with  roses,  had 
opened  out  along  the  whole  central  nave.  That  such  an  im- 
provement, which  in  a  desirable  manner  would  have  added  grace 
to  these  bare  walls,  now  only  perforated  by  round  air-holes,  would 
have  lent  quite  a  dififerent  aspect  to  the  interior  of  the  whole 
church,  could  not  be  effected,  was  caused  by  the  considerable 
expense  of  the  radical  change.  It  has  now,  instead,  become  the 
task  of  the  decorator  with  color  to  seek  and  replace,  and  cover  up 
what  here  is  defective,  which  also  in  the  many  propositions  of 
restoration  has  shown  itself  to  the  assailable  point  in  the  church's 
architecture. 

The  galleries  which  disfigured  the  north  and  south  transepts 
have  been  removed,  and  the  old  gallery  in  the  western  part,  which 
formerly  abutted  the  width  of  a  vault  until  the  next  pair  of 

47-2 


columns,  has  been  drawn  back,  and  provided  with  a  smaller 
balcony  above  the  main  entrance.  The  great  western  rose-win- 
dow has  been  somewhat  raised,  so  that  the  flood  of  light  which  it 
admits  may  not  be  intercepted  by  the  organ  l)uilt  below.  The 
hall  under  the  gallery,  the  penitents"  old  room,  has,  by  the  addi- 
tion of  a  couple  of  formerly  separate  closets,  been  enlarged  to  a 
spacious,  roomy  lobby  along  the  width  of  the  western  facade,  and 
from  which  now  three  doorways,  one  for  each  nave,  lead  into  the 
church.  The  two  great  cluster-columns,  which  rise  aloft  against 
the  front  of  the  gallery  to  support  the  interior  corners  of  the 
colossal  stone  towers,  have  been  especially  strengthened  and  re- 
set with  hewn  stone.  In  many  other  places  of  the  church  have, 
besides,  quite  a  number  of  minor  works  been  executed,  such  as 
straightening  of  arches,  rebuilding  of  pilasters,  coveing  of  vault- 
cupolas,  lowering  of  the  floor  in  some  of  the  sepulchres  and  put- 
ting down  a  new  flag-flooring  of  the  native  'Tvinekulle"  limestone 
in  the  entire  church,  etc.  Finally,  all  old  whitewash  and  cal- 
cimining  have  been  completely  removed,  and  in  those  places 
where  such  things  must  exist  have  been  replaced  by  a  plain  and 
durable  finishing  coat." 

We  wander  about  in  the  church  admiring  the  fine  and  beauti- 
ful proportions,  viewing  the  numerous  decorations,  peer  into  the 
sepulchres,  visit  the  "silver  room,"  and  can  never  be  tired  of  the 
great  and  variegated  vision. 

Your  humble  servant  remained  the  longest  at  the  tombs  of 
Gustavus  \'asa  and  Linnaeus.  They  were  kings  both,  although 
their  realms  were  so  different.  They  were  both  great,  but  the 
fame  of  the  latter  surpasses  that  of  the  former  as  time  passes 
onward,  if  the  comparison  is  made  from  a  cosmopolitan  point  of 
view.  In  the  silver  room  we  beheld  a  chalice  of  gold,  ornamented 
with  diamonds,  pearls  and  other  gems,  valued  at  100,000  kroner 
($27,000).  It  is  said  to  have  been  made  year  1541.  King  John 
III.'s  crown  and  scepter  and  the  ball  of  the  kingdom,  also  the 
crown  and  scepter  of  his  queen,  Catherine  Jagellonica,  two  small 
crosses  and  a  ring,  which  are  supposed  to  have  belonged  to  Ebba 
Brahe,  the  lad}-love  of  Gustavus  Adolphus,  also  the  crowns  and 
scepters  of  Gustavus  Vasa  and  his  three  spouses,  furthermore 
the  indulgence-casket  of  Pater  Arcimbaldus,  and  a  number  of 
other  valuables,  we  were  shown. 

In  glass  cases  are  preserved  some  ornaments  which  are  be- 
lieved to  have  belonged  to  Saint  Erigitta.     A  great  number  of 

473 


treasured  keepsakes  have  disappeared  in  the  course  of  time,  par- 
ticularly at  the  fire  in  1702.  In  the  wardrobes  on  the  organ 
gallery  the  church  keeps  a  considerable  number  of  articles,  re- 
garded as  requisite  for  the  cult.  To  this  belongs  a  valuable  pontif- 
ical for  the  archbishop,  presented  by  Gustavus  III.,  1788.  This 
is  still  used.  The  cope  of  Bishop  Stephan,  made  of  thick,  flowery 
yellow  silk,  and  700  years  old,  a  chasuble  since  1482,  furthermore 
about  20  common  clerical  vestments  and  chasubles,  10  altar 
covers,  12  altar  cloths,  6  corporales,  3  mitres,  etc. 

The  foundation  of  the  cathedral  was  laid  between  1258-1287. 
The  entire  restitution  cost  one  million  kronor  ($270,000). 

We  afterwards  viewed  the  great  university-buildmg,  all  the 
time  with  our  amiable  Pastor  Holm  as  our  cicerone.  It  is  a 
grand  edifice,  still  more  beautiful  in  the  interior,  particularly  in 
the  exquisite  vestibule.  Only  in  Leipzig  have  I  seen  anything 
still  superior  in  a  university-building.  The  Aula  is  large,  hand- 
some, and  imposing.  However,  we  Americans  thought  the 
benches  were  far  too  plain,  for  so  elegant  a  hall. 

After  that  we  also  viewed  the  rooms  of  the  faculty,  the  lec- 

turing-halls,  etc.     The  Iccturing-halls  were  surprisingly  simple. 

But  the  rooms  of  the  faculty,  on  the  contrary,  were  both  large 

and  elegant. 

Whocanestimatetheinnumerableblessings which  have  befallen 

dear,  old  Sweden  through  the  University  of  Upsala,  ever  since  its 

foundation  in  1477?     How  beneficent  was  not  the    hero-king, 

who  by  his  splendid  donations  made  it  possible  for  the  university 

to  carry  on  greater  activity  than  theretofore! 

After  that  we  went  for  a  stroll  in  the  old  cemetery,  where 
many  well  known,  immortal  names  attracted  our  notice  on 
more  or  less  grand  monuments.  On  the  grave  of  Pontus 
Wikner  there  was  no  monument.  Has  Sweden  so  soon  for- 
gotten him? 

We  had  allowed  ourselves  only  a  brief  time  in  Upsala  this 
time.  It  was  the  height  of  summer,  and  the  university  ought 
to  be  viewed  during  the  term.  Then  the  whole  wears  a  different 
impress  than  now.  The  students  then  swarm  everywhere,  and 
their  white-velvet  caps,  their  dapper,  noble  appearance,  and 
healthy,  happy  faces,  lend  to  the  whole  an  air  of  hopeful  youthful- 
ness,  which  makes  one  expect  that  an  octagenarian  in  Upsala 
ought  not  to  look  older  than  a  man  of  fifty  in  other  places. 

The  entire  educational   system   in   Sweden   has   at   present 

474 


reached  a  high  plane  of  development.     The  following  informa- 
tion will,  maybe,  interest  my  readers: 

High  Class  Educational  Institutions — Universities:  Complete 
State  Universities  of  Upsala  and  Lund.  State  medical-faculty  in 
Stockholm  (The  Karolinska  Institute).  Private  High-Schools  in 
Stockholm  and  Gothenburg,  1,500  students  in  Upsala,  650  in 
Lund.  The  University  of  Upsala  was  founded  year  1477,  and 
Lund  1668. 

State  High-Schools  (7  grades):  Falun,  Gefle,  Gothenburg 
(one  Latin,  one  practical  section,  complete),  Halmstad,  Helsing- 
borg,  Hernosand,  Hudiksvall,  Jonkoping,  Kalmar,  Karlskrona, 
Karlstad,  Kristianstad,  Linkoping,  Lulea,  Lund,  Malmo  Norr- 
koping,  Nykoping,  Skara,  Stockholm,  (2  sections  each,  one  Latin 
and  one  practical  section  complete),  Strangnas,  Sundsvall  (practi- 
cal section),  Umea,  Upsala,  Visby,  Vennersborg,  Vestervik,  Ves- 
teras,  Vexsjo,  Ystad,  Orebro,  Ostersund. 

State  Lower-Schools  (5  grades):  Arboga,  Boras,  Eksjo,  En- 
koping,  Eskilstuna,  Gothenburg,  Haparanda,  Karlshamn,  Kris- 
tinehamn,  Landskrona,  Lidkoping  Mariestad,  Norrtelje,  Oscars- 
hamn,  Pitea,  Skofde,  Stockholm  (3  schools,  of  which  i  practical 
section),  Soderhamn,  Uddevalla,  V^adstena. 

(3  grades):  Alingsas,  Arvika,  Askersund,  Falkoping,  Filip- 
stad,  Marstrand,  Sala,  Skelleftea,  Stromstad,  Soderkoping,  Trellc- 
borg,  Varberg,  Vimmerby,  Amal,  Ornskoldsvik,  15,150  pupils  at 
the  public  schools. 

Pedagogies:  Koping,  Nora,  Simrishamn,  Sodertelje,  213 
pupils  at  the  pedagogies. 

Girl  School:    Normal  school  for  girls  in  Stockholm. 

Seminary:    High  seminary  for  female  teachers  in  Stockholm. 

Seminaries  for  Parochial  School-Teachers:  Falun  (for  female 
teachers),  Gothenburg,  Linkoping,  Lund,  Kalmar  (for  female 
teachers),  Hernosand,  Karlstad,  Skara  (for  female  teachers), 
Stockholm  (for  female  teachers),  Upsala,  Umea  (for  female  teach- 
ers) Vexsjo. 

Technical  Institutes:  The  Technical  Institute  in  Stockholm. 
Chalmer's  Technical  Institute  in  Gothenburg,  Technical  School 
in  Stockholm,  Technical  School  in  Eskilstuna. 

Elementary  Technical  Schools:  Boras,  Malmo,  Norrkoping, 
Orebro. 

Agricultural  Institutes:  Alnarp  in  IMalmohus  district,  Ultuna 
in  Upsala  district. 

475 


Agricultural  Schools:  Applerum,  Kalm.  i  ;Bjarka,Saby,Oster- 
gotland;  Borgholm's  royal  demesne,  in  the  island  of  Oland;  El- 
lerholm,  Blekinge;  Husby,  Stockh.  i;  Johannesberg,  Jonkop.  i; 
Kilanda,  Elfsb.  i;  Klagstorp,  Skarab.  i;  Lund,  Nerike;  Nordrik, 
Angermanland;  Nygard,  Sodermanland;  Oregard,  Malmoh.  i; 
Orraryd,  Kronob.  i;  Runmo,  Helsingland;  Stora  Vrem,  Bohus- 
lan;  Satenas,  Skarab.  i;  Tomta,  Vestmanland;  Vallberga,  Hal- 
land;  Varpnas,  Vermland;  Vassbo,  Dalecarlia;  Vindo,  Kalm.  i; 
Yttertafle,  Vesterb.  i;  Aminne,  Norrb.  i;  Onnarp,  Elfsb.  i. 

Husbandry  Schools:  Ebbetorp,  Kalm.  i;  Hemse,  the  island 
of  Gothland;  Hvilan,  Malmoh.  i;  Katrineberg,  Halland;  Karf- 
vesta,  Nerike;  Lunnevad,  Ostergotland;  Molkom,  Vermland; 
Ope,  Jamtland;  Ronneby,  Blekinge;  Skara,  Skarab.  i;  Sodra  Vi, 
Kalm.  I ;  Upsala,  Upsala  i ;  Asa,  Soderm.  i ;  Onnestad.  Krist.  i. 

Military  Colleges:  Royal  Military  College  in  Stockholm, 
Royal  Artillery  and  Engineer  High-School,  Royal  Military 
Academy  at  Karlberg,  near  Stockholm,  Royal  Naval-Academy  in 
Stockholm. 

Schools  of  Navigation:  Gefle,  Gothenburg,  Hernosand,  Kal- 
mar,  Karlshamn,  Malmo,  Stockholm,  Stromstad,  Visby,  Vester- 
vik. 

Public  High-Schools:  BoUnas,  Helsingland;  Ebbetorp, 
Kalm.  i;  Fornby,  Dalecarlia;  Fridhem,  Malmoh.  i;  Gellivare, 
Norrb.i;Grebbestad,Bohnslan;Grimslof,  Kronob.  i ;  Hammarby, 
Stockh.  I ;  Hemse,  island  of  Gothland;  Hvilan.  Malmoh.  i ;  Karls- 
dal,  Jonkoping,  i ;  Katrineberg,  Halland,  Krackgarden,  Skarab. 
i;  Kafvesta,  Nerike;  Lunnevad,  Ostergotland;  Molkom,  Verm- 
land; Restad,  Elfsb.  i;  Ronneby,  Blekinge:  Skurup,  Malmoh.  i; 
Sodra  Vi,  Kalm.  i ;  Tranas.  Jonk.  i ;  Tyft,  Bohuslan;  Jarna  Ves- 
teras  i;  Upsala,  Ups.  i;  Viken,  Vesterb.  i;  Vasby,  Vestm.  i; 
Asa,  Soderm.  i;  Onnestad,  Krist.  i. 

Common  Public-School  System:  The  number  of  public  high- 
schools  were  13  in  1894,  the  parochial  schools  3,935,  the  am- 
bulatory 1,621.  There  were  5,562  male  teachers  and  8,985  female 
teachers.  The  number  of  children  who  were  of  school-age  were 
404,767  boys  and  392,715  girls,  altogether  797,482  children,  of 
whom  there  were  17.644  who  were  not  instructed.  The  expenses 
of  the  public-school  amounted  to  14,831,543  kroner. 

Number  of  inhabitants  to  each  common  public-school :  Nor- 
way, 270:  Switzerland,  366;  Sweden,  443;  France,  473;  Italy,  546; 
Spain,  560;  Denmark,  727;  German  Empire,  826;  Portugal,  S48; 

476 


i 


Holland,  1,015;  Belgium,  1,070;  Austria-Hungary,  1,090;  Great 
Britain,  1,203;  Greece,  1,245;  Roumania,  1,754;  Bulgaria,  1,784; 
Russia,  2,196,  and  Servia,  3,115;  Montenegro, -unknown  number. 

No  wonder  then  that  Sweden  stands  first  in  the  matter  of 
common  education.  The  following  table  speaks  in  an  eloquent 
manner  for  Sw-eden,  for  Lutheranism  in  general,  and  for 
Protestantism. 

Inhabitants  over  ten  years  of  age  who  can  neither  read  nor 
write  are  as  follows,  in 

Sweden 0.6  per  cent 

Norway 0.8 

Denmark 0.8 

Switzerland 0.9 

German  Empire i  -4    " 

Holland 1.6    "       " 

United  States 13 .      " 

Great  Britain 15 . 

France 32 . 

Italy 46.    ;;    ;; 

Spain 52 . 

Russia 80 . 

One  of  the  members  of  the  Journalist  Congress  in  Stockholm, 
Colonel  C.  Secretan,  from  Switzerland,  has  written  his  impres- 
sions of  Sweden  in  "Gazette  de  Lausanne."  He  studied  in  par- 
ticular the  school-system,  of  which  he  renders  an  account  in  very 
flattering  terms. 

He  writes  among  other  things,  'T  visited  the  section  for  the 
common  public-schools  at  the  Stockholm  Exposition.  I  had  for 
a  cicerone  a  teacher,  a  highly  cultivated  and  well  informed  man. 
As  he  knew  that  I  was  a  Swiss  he  wanted,  before  we  entered,  to 
say  a  few  explanatory  words  by  way  of  an  excuse  for  what  he 
was  going  to  show  me.  'We  have  nothing  to  teach  you  in  this 
respect,'  said  he,  'for  Switzerland  ranks  first  among  nations  with 
regard  to  popular  education.' 

"I  drew  myself  up,  and  replied  with  a  few  polite,  condescend- 
ing phrases.  Oh,  I  had  not  advanced  fifty  steps  in  the  school 
rooms  before  I  lowered  my  tone. 

"When  w^e  went  out  it  was  my  turn  to  humble  myself  and 
feel  small.  I  wished  that  all  the  teachers  and  public  school-in- 
spectors in  the  canton  of  Vaud  had  been  present  to  experience 
what  I  felt. 

"What  I  admire  in  this  Swedish  school-organization  is  not  so 

477 


much  the  wealth  of  resources  and  the  appropriateness  of  the  tools 
— something  which  we  never  will  reach — but  it  is  the  admirable 
applicability  in  the  organization,  the  practical  perception,  the 
common-sense,  briefly  spoken,  of  the  men  who  govern  the 
whole." 

Now  we  leave  Upsala  for  Denmark.  But  it  is  only  the  name 
of  a  peaceful,  wealthy  and  fine  parish,  which  has  been  known  by 
this  designation,  it  is  said,  all  since  the  time  of  the  Danish  troubles 
in  these  parts. 

We  were  going  to  visit  relatives,  and  dear,  never-to-be-for- 
gotten friends  in  a  small,  antiquated  parsonage,  with  a  veranda 
which  one  of  the  'varsity  men  asserted  was  painted  in  fourteen 
different  colors. 

I  like  the  Upsala  plain — both  the  prairie  itself  and  its  beautiful 
variegated  frame,  and  the  charming  Denmark  we  shall  never 
forget. 

We  have  now  arrived,  and  are  cordially  received  by  the  happy, 
young  huswife.  The  building  was  small  and  the  ceilings  of 
the  room  uncommonly  low,  but  where  dwells  a  big  heart,  it  mat- 
ters not  if  the  confines  are  narrow.  After  a  little  while  the  master 
of  the  house  returned  home  on  his  bicycle,  and  then  we  were 
again  cordially  welcomed.  Ineffaceable  are  those  fleet  hours 
spent  at  Pastor  Rogberg's  home. 

In  the  evening  we  were  all  invited  to  the  Rector,  Professor 
Totties.  Besides  the  charming  host  and  hostess  we  met  there 
also  Mr.  Lundstrom,  fellow  of  the  university,  probably  professor 
by  this  time,  and  Dean  Wallen,  with  daughter,  from  Helsingland. 
When  I  looked  at  and  associated  with  the  portly,  erudite  and 
pious  Professor  Totties,  I  thought  to  myself:  behold  the  embryo 
of  a  splendid  bishop!  But,  hush,  a  foreigner  is  supposed  to 
suppress  surmises. 

It  was  the  beginning  of  the  cray-fish  season,  and  the  delicious 
dish  was  not  absent.  In  the  Upsala  neighborhood  the  cray-fish 
is  the  largest  and  finest  I  have  ever  tasted. 

The  host  and  charming  hostess  succeeded  in  making  such  a 
very  good  time  for  us  all,  that  the  word  for  evening  family-prayer 
at  10:15  made  us  think  with  regret  that  the  time  was  up.  Heart- 
felt thanks  for  these  never-to-be-forgotten  hours. 

Next  morning  we  took  a  walk  out  to  Hamnjarby,  where 
Linnaeus  lived  for  so  many  years.  It  was  a  pleasant  stroll  in  a 
most  agreeable  company.       In  front  of  the  house  stood -large 

478 


chestnut-trees,  which  have  been  planted  by  Linnaeus  himself.  On 
entering  we  wandered  about,  through  several  rooms,  and  viewed 
many  historical  momentos  of  various  kinds.  Linnaeus'  study  at- 
tracted me  the  most.  Above  the  door  we  read:  "Innocue  vitito: 
Numen  adest"  (Live  irreproachably:  God  is  ever  present).  A 
glorious  motto.  We  saw  the  great  floral-king's  dortoral  hat, 
"one  daler  silver  in  copper-coin,"  the  'varsity  rules  and  regula- 
tions of  the  Smaland  provincial  nationality,  his  ledger,  inkstand, 
pruning  knife,  Sunday  cane,  diploma,  a  velvet  skull-cap,  the  bed- 
stead in  which  he  died  at  Upsala  in  1778,  and  many  other  inter- 
esting curios. 

In  the  tourist  book  we  read  for  the  date  of  July  3d,  this  year: 
"Christina  Nilson,  Csse  de  Casa  Miranda." 

Afterwards  we  ascended  the  knoll  among  great  boulders  and 
trees,  where  many  learned  men  in  by-gone  times  had  visited  the 
famous  Smalander  Linnaeus.  The  museum  is  a  small  white  and 
yellow  brick  building.  The  cathedral  is  still  remaining;  the  col- 
lections are  in  England,  which  rather  aggravates  everv  Swede. 

Now  we  had  to  return.  We  beheld  at  a  distance  Mora  stones, 
with  the  house  that  has  been  built  there.  After  that  we  lost 
ourselves  in  the  wood,  but  at  last,  although  somewhat  belated, 
reached  the  ever  memorable  parsonage,  where  we  were  treated  to 
a  fine  and  tasty  lunch. 

To  Old  Upsala! 

It  was  a  friendly  invitation  from  Professor  Berggren  which 
brought  us  there.  We  spent  the  afternoon  there  in  the  most 
agreeable  manner,  and  in  the  most  pleasant  company. 

During  this  trip  I  heard  an  expression  by  some  one,  which 
fits  exceedingly  well  in  more  than  one  way.  It  was  a  Professor 
H.,  who  said  to  Unonius,  formerly  also  well  known  in  the  United 
States:     "You  began  like  a  Pharisee  and  ended  like  a  Publican." 

One  often  heard  anecdotes  related  by  the  young  people  in 
Upsala.     It  was  a  Swedish-American  who  told  me  tl:e  following: 

"A  student  had  been  out  on  a  spree,  and  during  his  fuzzle 
had  been  severely  beaten  and  brought  to  a  barber-surgeon. 
"Dear  me,  what  an  awful  lot  of  holes  you  have  got  sir."  "Yes, 
alco-hol."  When  the  barber-surgeon  had  finished  his  job,  the 
student  bowed  politely  to  him  and  said:  "I  am  indeed  'bound' 
to  thank  you,  sir." 

The  young  ladies'  college  in  Upsala  is  twittingly  called  "The 
miss-taken-organization,"  and  also  "Magdeburg."      A  students' 

481 


boarding  house  is  situated  near  by,  because  of  which  it  is  called: 
"Pfaffenheim  besieging  Alagdeburg." 

On  Sunday,  Aug.  8,  your  humble  servant  preached  at  the 
morning  service  in  the  Cathedral  of  Upsala.  A  great  concourse 
of  people  had  assembled  to  worship  in  the  glorious  sanctuary. 
The  organ  w^as  admirably  handled  by  Mr.  Josephson,  junior,  who 
at  any  rate  at  the  organ  is  said  to  surpass  his  celebrated  father, 
the  music  composer. 

In  the  afternoon  I  held  a  sermon  in  the  cosy  little  church 
of  the  Denmark  parish,  and  met  at  the  dinner  in  the  parsonage 
my  friends  Totties,  Berggren,  Pastors  Holm  and  Tivell,  a  young 
Baron  Rappe,  tw^o  of  the  church  wardens  and  a  lady  from  Stock- 
holm, whose  name  I  have  forgotten. 

Both  in  Upsala  and  Denmark  the  people  go  diligently  to 
church,  it  appears. 

I  was  compelled  to  return  to  Stockholm  already  on  the 
Sunday  evening.  A  friendly,  hearty  and  sincere  "Aufwieder- 
sehen!" 


482 


CHAPTER  XXXVI. 

A  Day  in  Ancient  Lund. 

Although  we  had  passed  over  the  same  route  once  before,  it 
was  impossible  to  decline  the  kind  invitation  from  Prof.  Seved 
Ribbing  and  his  amiable  wife  to  spend  at  least  a  few  hours  in 
the  interesting  and  ancient   city   of   Lund. 

My  ambition  was  to  see  our  friends,  the  renowned  Cathedral, 
the  University  building,  and  the  Tegner-house.  In  every  in- 
stance the  wish  was  gratified. 

As  yet,  we  are,  however,  only  on  the  railroad  train  going 
south.  Skane  is  one  of  the  wealthiest  parts  of  Sweden.  Its 
agricultural  lands  have  long  been  famous  for  their  fertility.  The 
people  are  solid,  dignified  and  conservative.  We  enjoyed  the 
scenery  very  much.  The  numerous  sugar-factories,  where  an- 
nually immense  quantities  of  beets  are  turned  into  sugar,  were 
of  special  interest  to  me.  Sweden  raised  in  1895.  5,654,721  dec- 
itons  (deciton=ioo  kilograms)  of  sugar  beets.  In  97  the  sugar 
beet  industry  will  bring  the  Swedish  farmers,  raising  them,  an  in- 
come of  17,400,000  kronor,  and  the  laborers  employed  an  income 
of  6,400,000  kroner.  In  the  United  States  we  are  able  to  raise 
sugar  beets,  sorghum  and  sugar  cane  in  unmeasured  quantities, 
and  yet  we — buy  our  sugar  very  largely  from  abroad.  Our  im- 
ports of  sugar  for  last  year  were  worth  $90,000,000.00.  If  our 
farmers  would  discuss  politics  and  financial  questions  less  and 
industrial  and  practical  questions  more,  and  work  harder  for  the 
development  of  their  respective  sections  of  country,  they  them- 
selves and  the  country  at  large  would  both  be  in  better  circum- 
stances. 

We  pass  now  beautiful  little  Ousby,  dear  to  us  in  America 
on  account  of  its  connection  with  the  history  of  our  patriarch, 
the  sainted  Doctor  Hasselquist. 

483 


We  are  going  to  visit  the  Tegner-house  upon  our  arrival  in 
Lund.  As  an  introduction  to  that  visit,  I  desire  to  have  a  Httle 
talk  with  you  all,  dear  readers,  about  the  literature  of  Sweden  in 
general.  I  feel  that  you  will  appreciate  this  thoughtfulness  of 
mine.  Once  in  America  a  Populist  editor  asked  me  in  seem- 
ing sincerity,  if  Sweden  had  any  literature.  I  did  not  get  angry, 
but  I  pitied  and  despised  such  unmeasured  ignorance  in  a  would- 
be  reformer. 

I  prepared  the  following  upon  the  request  of  The  Progress 
and  by  its  kind  permission  use  it  here.  The  portraits  of  Swedish 
writers  are  also  from  The  Progress, 

"It  was  some  time  after  the  introduction  of  Christianity  in 
Sweden  before  there  was  any  literature.  During  the  earliest  part 
of  the  Catholic  period  Sweden  stands  quite  isolated  in  its  rela- 
tion to  the  other  parts  of  Europe.  After  1248  A.  D.  this  con- 
dition gradually  changed.  It  was  the  church  which  provided 
men  and  means  for  culture  in  this  country,  as  everywhere  else. 
Ambitious  Swedish  youths  went  abroad  to  the  Dominican  Col- 
lege of  Cologne  and  to  the  universities  of  Paris  and  Prague. 
In  1477  A.  D.  the  University  at  Upsala  was  founded.  Latin  was 
the  language  of  the  learned.  Books  were  few,  and  the  Norse  lan- 
guage and  vocabulary  lost  some  of  their  peculiarities,  and  slowly 
changed  into  the  Swedish,  partly  through  the  influence  of  Latin 
and  German,  partly  of  the  Danish  language,  which  is  softer  and 
weaker  than  the  Swedish. 

The  Old  Laws  of  the  Provinces  are  the  most  ancient  Swedish 
books.  The  Laws  of  Vestergotland  stands  first.  It  dates  back  to 
the  eleventh  century  and  was  revised  by  Eskil  about  the  year 
1200.  The  oldest  copy  is  written  about  1281  A.  D.  The  Laws 
of  Upland  follows  (confirmed  1296)  next,  and  then  the  Laws  of 
Ostergotland. 

These  works  are  simply  invaluable  in  the  study  of  the  life 
and  character  of  the  Swedish  people  of  that  age.  They  tell  espe- 
cially, of  course,  of  the  ideas  of  justice  and  of  independence, 
already  then  so  fully  developed  in  this  interesting  land  of  the 
north. 

There  are  also  some  religious  works  belonging  to  this  period, 
chief  of  which  are  those  of  St.  Birgitta.  Her  Revelations  are  a 
collection  of  pious,  sentimental  and  mystic  essays,  first  writ- 
ten in  Swedish,  then  translated  into  Latin,  and  finally  again 
into  Swedish.     From  the  cloisters  of  the  Order  of  St.  Birgitta  im- 

484 


portant  translations  were  issued,  especially  of  parts  of  the  Bible 
and  collections  of  sermons. 

In  Historical  Literature  we  find  the  famous  Rhymed  Chron- 
icles, and  in  Poetry,  several  collections,  as  for  instance,  the 
Rhymes  of  Bishop  Thomas,  and  the  beginning  of  the  Folk  Song, 
a  most  interesting  part  of  old  Swedish  literature.  The  largest 
number  of  these  songs  are  ballads  and  romances.  The  style  is 
manly  and  touching,  often  in  dialogue,  simple  and  impulsive. 
Some  are  of  a  light,  joyful  character,  but  in  most  of  them  is 
found  a  tinge  of  melancholy,  that  is  also  grafted  into  the  melodies. 


.^js^ 


GUSTAVUS  II.   ADOLPHUS. 

many  which  are  very  charming  and  of  permanent  beauty  and 
musical  worth.  The  first  book  in  Sweden  was  printed  in  1483 
A.D. 

The  Renaissance  meant  the  regeneration  of  the  truly  human. 
the  Reformation  gave  a  new  birth  to  the  religious  life  of  the 
age.  Both  place  the  individual  higher  than  before,  and  in 
Sweden  these  two  great  movements  worked  in  parallel  lines,  so 
to  speak. 

The  New  Testament  was  translated  into  Swedish  in  1526  A. 
D.  and  the  whole  Bible  in  1541.  This  was  the  greatest  event 
in  Sv,-edish  literature  so  far. 

485 


The  next  period  forms  the  continuation  and  completion  of 
the  previous  period.  Gustavus  II.  Adolphus  brought  Sweden  to 
the  pinnacle  of  political  power,  and  he  also  infused  new  life  into 
Swedish  culture  and  education  by  his  noble  example  and  royal 
generosity. 

In  the  literature  of  the  times  we  find  works  on  history,  archae- 
ology (the  fashionable  study  for  some  time),  economics,  the 
classics,  philosophy,  the  natural  sciences,  poetry,  and  popular 
classics. 

The  language  was  badly  mixed  with  words  and  phrases  bor- 
rowed from  the  Latin  and  French.  Many  of  the  greatest  writers 
of  this  epoch  tried  to  purify  the  language  by  using  only  Swedish 
words,  but  were  successful  only  in  part.  Among  prominent  au- 
thors of  the  period  the  following  may  be  mentioned:  Gustavus 
II.  Adolphus,  the  great  king,  orator,  prose  writer  and  poet; 
Axel  Oxenstierna,  the  chancellor  of  the  king,  and  writer  of  his- 
tory; Georg  Stjernhjelm,  the  greatest  name  in  the  literature  of 
this  period,  a  poet  of  much  ability  and  energy,  and  a  reformer 
of  language;  Lasse  Johansson,  who  wrote  poetry  in  seven  lan- 
guages, some  good  and  some  bad;  Jcsper  Svedberg.  bishop,  lin- 
guist, and  poet.  His  efl'orts  for  the  purifying  of  the  language 
were  heroic,  and  remain  in  permanent  form  in  the  Swedish  hymn 
book,  and  revised  translation  of  the  Bible;  Runius;  Sofia  Eliza- 
beth Brenner;  Dahlstjerna;  Olof  Rudbeck,  one  of  the  greatest 
men  at  the  University  of  Upsala  of  this  period.  Greatest  works: 
Atland,  Manheim,  Atlantis,  in  which  he  attempts  to  prove  by 
dint  of  much  learning  and  an  inventive  patriotism  that  Sweden 
was  the  land  of  the  most  ancient  culture  and  civilization,  the 
dream-land  of  Plato,  the  Atlantis,  the  place  of  Paradise. 

With  the  death  of  Charles  XII.,  a  new  epoch  dawned  upon 
Sweden  and  its  culture.  Politically  this  period  was  strong  and 
weak  in  turn,  but  in  literature  it  was  Sweden's  most  glorious 
age,  so  far.  It  gave  a  truly  wonderful  massing  together  of 
genius,  learning,  culture  and  literary  progress.  In  literature  new 
tendencies  appear,  chief  among  which  is  the  French-classic,  the 
English-essay  style,  and  in  part  the  Danish,  through  the  influ- 
ence of  Holberg.  During  this  period  the  new-Swedish  language 
receives  its  permanent  form  and  character. 

Some  of  the  great  names:  Olof  Dalin,  poet,  historian,  popu- 
lar scientist,  the  father  of  the  new  Swedish  prose,  the  founder  in 
a  way  of  the  Swedish  press,  a  great  spirit  in  every  way:  Tessin, 

486 


von  Hopken,  Mork,  Wallenberg,  Hedvig  Charlotta  Xorden- 
flycht,  poet,  center  of  an  important  circle  of  litterateurs,  among 
whom  were  the  two  following:  Creiitz,  poet,  author  of  Atis  och 
Camilla,  and  Gyllenborg,  who  belongs  to  a  whole  family  of  poets. 
Here  must  also  be  mentioned  Sweden's  greatest  humorist,  Carl 
Michael  Bellman,  as  belonging  to  this  period  and  the  next. 
This  writer  was  a  man  of  almost  unmeasured  literary  genius,  but 
has  been  judged  very  differently.  I.inne  (Linnaeus),  the  far- 
famed  botanist  and  scientist;  Svedenborg,  the  spiritualist;  Nohr- 
borg,  author  of  the  most  widely  circulated  Swedish  collection 
of  sermons. 


-SK***^^^*^  --~'V^^^  ^  ■* 


CARL  MICHAEL  BELLMAN. 


In  the  sciences  the  former  period  was  greater  than  the  one 
now  following,  but  in  literature  this  epoch  also  was  very  illustri- 
ous. The  king  (Gustavus  III.),  was  a  friend  of  everything  bril- 
liant; he  was  illustrious  upon  the  fields  of  poetry  and  the  fine  arts. 
The  "Swedish  Academy"  was  founded  in  1786,  consisting  of 
eighteen  members,  and  its  object  was  the  encouragement  of 
eloquence,  oratory,  poetry,  language  and  honor  to  illustrious 
names.  The  poets  of  the  academy  wrote  odes  and  didactics  on 
the  one  hand  and  satirical  and  humorous  poems  on  the  other. 

487 


They  were  opposed  by  Yhorild  and  Lidner,  who  supported  Ros- 
seau's  ideas. 

Great  names:  Gustavus  III.,  himself  author  and  orator; 
Johan  Henrik  Kehgren,  "The  Poet  of  the  Graces,"  one  of  the 
great  names  in  Swedish  hterature,  editor  of  the  daily,  "Stock- 
holmsposten,"  poet,  dramatist,  and  philosopher;  Carl  Gustaf  af 
Leopold,  another  prominent  name,  poet,  dramatist,  literary  critic; 
Oxenstjerna,  Adlerbeth,  Lehnberg,  bishop,  and  orator;  Anna 
Maria  Lenngren  was  one  of  the  greatest  and  most  popular  names 
in  Swedish  literature.       Style  simple,  devoid  of  all  affectation, 


/^'/..  '*^ 
///r.' 


ERIC  GUSTAV  GEIJER. 

idyllic,  satirical  sometimes,  interesting  always;  Thomas  Thorild, 
opponent  of  the  French-Classic  School,  pointing  towards  Ros- 
seau,  Klopstock  and  Goethe,  poet,  prose-writer,  and  philosopher. 

After  the  close  of  the  unfortunate  war  which  lost  Finland  to 
Sweden,  and  after  the  great  political  changes  of  1809,  by  which 
Sweden  received  a  new  constitution,  at  least  in  part,  giving  in- 
creased liberties  and  privileges  to  the  people,  a  great  period  of 
internal  growth  and  development  dawned  upon  the  country,  by 
which,  according  to  the  poet,  it  "regained  Finland  within  its  own 
boundaries." 

The  change  was  one  from  infidelity  to  faith,  from  radicalism 

488 


to  progressive  conservatism,  from  cosmopolitanism  to  patriot- 
ism. The  arts  and  sciences  began  to  flourish  with  new  health 
and  vigor.  In  history  we  meet  with  "the  universal  genius,"  Eric 
Gustaf  Geijer,  one  of  Sweden's  master  minds  in  all  ages,  whose 
statue  greets  the  tourist  today  on  his  approach  to  the  University 
of  Upsala. 

In  literature  an  attack  was  made  upon  the  adherents  of  the 
French  school  by  Atterbom,  Hammarskold,  and  others,  called 
phosphorists,  and  the  kinsmen  of  the  new  romantic  school  of 
Germany.  Their  controversy  with  the  "old  school"  was  very 
bitter.  In  addition  there  were  the  adherents  of  the  Gotiska  for- 
bundet  (the  Gothic  association),  and  the  neutrals,  belonging  to 


HENRY   LING. 


no  party  or  tendency.  The  "Goths"  were  the  patriots  in  the 
literature  of  that  day,  and  were  anxious  that  the  Swedish  nation 
should  find,  know,  and  respect  itself  once  more.  Their  most 
prominent  men  were  Geijer,  Ling  and  Tegner.  Literature  flour- 
ished, and  there  are  a  larger  number  of  Swedish  classics  from 
the  years  1810-1830  than  from  any  other  similar  period  in  its 
history. 

Great  names:     Johan  Olof  Wallin,  the  greatest  hvmnologist 
of  Sweden,  was  archbishop,  poet,  orator,  legislator,  preacher, 

493 


and  withal  a  truly  great  man.  In  the  Swedish  Hymn-book, 
adopted  1819,  and  yet  in  common  use,  one  hundred  and  twenty- 
six  hymns  bear  his  honored  name,  and  many  more  are  revised 
and  edited  by  him.  He  saved  the  old  Bible  and  the  old  hymns 
from  the  radicals  to  posterity,  and  that  alone  would  have  made 
him  immortal.  Among  his  poems  may  be  mentioned:  "The 
Angel  of  Death;"  "George  Washington"  (a  noble  song  of  lib- 
erty); and  "Home-sickness;"  Dahlgren,  poet-humorist,  preacher, 
legislator;  Eric  Gustaf  Geijer,  historian,  poet,  philosopher,  com-, 
poser,  statesman,  one  of  the  most  perfect  of  all  the  noted  per- 
sonages in  Swedish  literature.  Powder,  love,  manliness,  deep 
religious  convictions  were  the    eminent    characteristics    of    this 


JOHAN  OLOF   WALLIN. 

great  man.  Some  of  his  poems  have  seen  many  translations  into 
English.  Esaias  Tegner,  1846,  the  most  noted  poet  of  Sweden, 
educator,  orator,  and  bishop.  His  "Frithiof's  Saga"  has  seen 
twenty-three  translations  into  English  alone,  and  is  also  trans- 
lated into  nearly  all  other  civilized  languages;  his  "Axel,"  and 
"Nattvardsbarnen,"  are  also  well  known  outside  of  his  own  coun- 
try. Longfellow  almost  adored  Tegner,  but  did  not  dare  to 
attempt  a  translation  of  "Frithiof's  Saga."  Tegner  combined 
the  good  and  commendable  traits  of  the  academic,  romantic  and 

494 


patriotic  schools,  all  in  himself.  Stagnelius,  1823,  was  a  poetic 
genius  who  died  young,  but  his  was  one  of  the  great  names 
of  Swedish  poetr}-;  Von  Beskow,  1868,  poet  and  critic,  .was 
the  secretary  of  the  Swedish  Academy  for  more  than  thirt\' 
}'ears. 

Almquist,  died  1866,  one  of  the  peculiar  characters  among 
Swedish  poets;  Johan  Ludvig  Runeberg,  1877,  one  of  the  great- 
est poets  in  the  Swedish  language,  poet,  patriot,  and  educator, 
a  voluminous  writer,  admired  wherever  he  is  known;  Bernhard 
Elis  Malmstrom  ,  1865,  educator  and  poet,  author  of  "Angelica" 
and  other  immortal  poems;  Strandberg  (Talis  Qualis),  died  1877, 


VICTOR   RYDBERG. 


poet;  Von  Braun,  i860,  poet  and  satirist;  Sehlstedt,  1874,  popular 
poet;  Wennerberg,  yet  living,  poet,  music-composer  and  states- 
man, well  known  and  beloved  in  America;  Zakarias  Topelius, 
yet  living,  one  of  the  great  names  in  Swedish  literature,  poet, 
author,  and  novelist;  Dahlgren,  poet  and  dialect  writer;  Emilie 
Flygare-Carlen,  1892,  novelist;  Thomander,  1865.  poet,  preacher, 
orator;  Fredrika  Bremer,  the  greatest  and  purest  novelist  of 
universal  fame,  1865. 

Later  Writers: — King  Oscar  II.,  today  the  most  learned  mon- 
arch of  Europe,  well-known  poet,  eminent  orator,  successful 
translator  and  great  linguist,  and  withal  one  of  the  most  inter- 
esting and  noble  persons  now  living  in   Europe,  several  times 

495 


arbitrator;  Victor  Rydberg,  1895,  the  greatest  Swedish  writer 
of  modern  days,  poet,  author,  novehst,  journalist,  author  of  "The 
Last  Athenian,"  translated  into  English  by  Hon.  W.  W.  Thomas, 
Jr.     The  prose  of  Rydberg  is  looked  upon  as  ideal. 

In  our  country  there  is  springing  up  a  Swedish  literature  of 
no  mean  proportions.  The  three  colleges  of  the  Swedish  Luth- 
eran Church  (Augustana  at  Rock  Island,  Bethany  at  Lindsborg, 
and  Gustavus  Adolphus  at  St.  Peter),  and  the  best  representa- 
tives of  the  Swedish  press,  the  eminent  divines,  and  the  annual 
historical  and  national  festivities,  are  the  backbone  of  this  move- 


ZAKARIAS  TOPELIUS. 


ment.  Dr.  Hasselquist,  1892,  is  the  Nestor  of  Swedish  literature 
in  America.  Among  the  volumes  of  poetry  published  so  far, 
the  most  important  are  by  J.  A.  Enander,  LL.  D.;  Ludvig 
Holmes,  L.  D.;  A.  A.  Svard,  Ninian  Waerner,  Magnus  Elm- 
blad,  C.  F.  Peterson,  Jacob  Bonggren,  Ernst  Skarstedt. 
Among  humorous  poets  Willie  Akerberg,  Ernst  Lind- 
blom  and  Gustaf  Wiklund.  Works  of  history,  theology,  travels, 
biography,  devotion  and  science  have  also  been  published  by 
Swedes  in  this  country,  of  whom  quite  a  number  are  doing  literary 
work  also  in  English  as  poets,  authors,  news  and  magazine  writ- 
ers, translators,  etc. 

There  is  a  wonderful  charm  in  Swedish  literature,  a  charm 

496 


appreciated  especially  by  Americans.  Many  are  annually  learn- 
ing the  Swedish  language  in  order  to  read  that  literature  in  the 
original.  What  is  that  charm?  First,  in  the  language  itself, 
so  pure,  so  musical,  so  manly.  Secondly,  in  the  beautiful  style, 
large-sized,  if  the  expression  be  pardoned,  yet  careful  in  the 
minutest  of  details;  fresh  with  the  verdure  of  the  fir-tree  and  the 
perfume  of  the  new-mown  lawn,  and  mystic  as  the  charming 
midnight-dawn  of  the  northern  sun  of  their  endless  summer-day. 
Thirdly,  in  the  clear,  cool-headed,  warm-hearted  judgment,  devo- 
tion and  truth  of  the  authors;  in  the  nobility  and  concreteness  of 
their  conception;  in  the  sparkling,  innocent  humor  of  their  over- 
flowing wit,  and  in  the  viking  keenness  of  their  terrible  thrusts. 
Oh,  how  near  they  lived  to  the  great  heart  of  Nature  and  of 
Nature's  God!  Their  ideal  and  lofty  systems  of  thought,  their 
disregard  of  wealth  and  riches  as  compared  with  genius  and 
mental  and  moral  worth,  give  a  peculiar  charm  to  them  in  an 
age  and  country  like  ours.  And  only  the  beginning  of  this 
movement  is  as  yet.  What  Longfellow  adored  the  nation  will 
adore  by-and-by. 

I  must  also  render  to  you  some  poetry  translated  from  Swed- 
ish into  English. 

First  of  all,  the  famous  battle-hymn  of  Gustavus  Adolphus: — 

Be  not  dismayed,  thou  little  flock, 
Although  the  foe's  fierce  battle- shock 

Loud  on  all  sides  assails  thee. 
Though  o'er  thy  fall  they  laugh  secure. 
Their  triumph  cannot  long  endure: 

Let  not  thy  courage  fail  thee. 

Thy  cause  is  God's — go  at  His  call; 
And  to  His  hand  commit  thy  all; 

Fear  thou  no  ill  impending; 
His  Gideon  shall  arise  for  thee, 
God's  Word  and  people  manfully. 

In  God's  own  time  defending. 

Our  hope  is  sure  in  Jesus'  might- 
Against  themselves  the  godless  fight. 

Themselves,   not  us,   distressing; 
Shame  and  contempt  their  lot  shall  be: 
God  is  with  us,  with  Plim  are  we; 
To  us  belongs  His  blessing. 
— Translated  from  the  Swedish  by  the  author  of  "Christian  Life  in 
Song." 

497 


Next  we  select  a  poem  by  Geijer: 

THE  VIKING. 

At  fifteen  the  cabin  grew  close  and  confined. 

Where  we  lived,  my  mother  and  I; 
While  tending  the  goats  came  a  change  o'er  my  mind, 

For  the  days  crawled  so  slowly  by. 
In  my  dreams  and  in  fancy  I'd  wonder  and  soar; 
But  I  found  not  the  joy  that  had  cheered  me  before 
In  the  woodland. 

One  morning  a  ship  that  I  saw  on  the  main 

Like  an  arrow  shot  into  our  bay, 
And  my  bosom  heaved  and  my  wants  grew  plain 

To  my  fervid  mind  that  day. 
I  left  my  mother,  my  goats  and  home 
To  join  the  Viking's  crew  and  to  roam. 
O'er  the  ocean. 

And  the  sails  swell  out,  and  lusty  the  wind 

Bore  us  o'er  the  billows'  crest; 
In  the  darkening  sea  sank  the  fields  behind. 

And  yet  there  was  joy  in  my  breast. 
I  brandished  my  father's  old  broadsword  on  high 
And  swore  to  win  booty  and  fame  or  to  die 
On  the  ocean. 

At  sixteen  I  slew  the  old  Viking,  for  he 

Made  sport  of  my  beardless  chin. 
I  won  trophies  and  glory  as  king  of  the  sea, 

In  fierce  fought  battles  and  din. 
I  won  castles  and  burghs  on  a  foreign  soil 
And  with  my  bold  comrades  cast  lots  for  the  spoil. 
On  the  ocean. 

And  once  even  I  possessed  castles  and  lands 
Where  I  quafifed  by  my  sooty  hearth-stone 

And  as  ruler  I  looked  to  my  country's  demands 
And  I  slept  within  walls  of  my  own. 

The  days  of  the  winter  were  dull  to  my  mind; 

'Tis  true  I  was  king,  yet  I  yearned  and  I  pined 
For  the  ocean. 

And  time  lagged  idly  and  dull  my  lot 

To   deal   with   the   common   herd; 
They  want  me  to  watch  o'er  the  peasant's  cot 

And  the  beggar's  scrip  to  guard. 

498 


I  listened  all  weary  to  cases  and  crimes. 
And  longed  to  go  back  to  the  gallant  old  times 
On  the  ocean. 

But  the  weary  winter  was  ended  at  last, 
And  daisies  grew  bright  on  the  shores; 

And  the  wavelets  chanted  as  on  they  passed, 
Away  where  the  ocean  roars; 

And  spring  winds  gambol  o'er  mountain  and  dale. 

And  the  streams  rush  on  with  the  speed  of  the  gale 
To  the  ocean. 

I  felt  the  invisible  spirit  of  old 

While  the  loud  waves  urged  me  on. 
O'er  city  and  country  I  scattered  my  gold; 

My  crown  I  trod  upon. 
With  a  ship  and  a  sword  and  as  poor  as  before 
I  courted  new  dangers  and  wrestled  once  more 
With   the   ocean. 

The  wand  was  sportive  and  swift  the  chase 

On  the  sea  where'er  we  came, 
But  life  and  death  of  the  human  race 

Was  everywhere  the  same, 
In  human  dwellings  are  grief  and  remorse 
But  sorrow  she  knows  not  the  Viking's  course 
On  the  ocean. 

From  the  prow   of  the   vessel   my   comrades  and  I 

Scanned  the  restless  seas  again; 
We   would   pass  the  merchant  peacefully   by 

But  fall  on  the  Viking  amain. 
For  the  Viking's  laurels  are  dyed  in  blood 
And  their  swords  knit  friendship  and  brotherhood 
On  the  ocean. 

I  stood  all  the  day  in  the  bounding  prow 

And  how  bright  the  future  smiled! 
Like  the  swans  where  the  tall  reeds  bend  and  bow, 

I  sped  on  the  billows  wild. 
The  booty  that  fell  in  my  way  was  mine 
And  my  hope  was  exalted  as  stars  that  shine 
On  the  ocean. 

And  oft  in  the  night  as  I  watched  alone 

The  elements  fierce  at  strife, 
I  heard  the  fates  in  the  storm  and  the  moan. 

As  they   spun   out   the   thread   of   life- 

499 


His  fall   or  his  fortune  man  cannot  control: 
'Tis  best  be  prepared  amid  billows  that  roll 
On  the  ocean. 

I  am  twenty  now;  I  am  wrecked  and  alone 

And  the  sea  cries  loud  for  my  blood. 
He  drank  it  in  battles  of  days  that  are  gone 

Where  I  and  my  comrades  stood; 
Cease  burning,  my  heart,  and  cease  beating  so  loud 
For  soon  thou'll  rest  in  thy  watery  shroud 
In  the  ocean. 
****** 
But  the  ship-wrecked  Viking's  song  is  now  lost, 
He  has  chanted  his  last;  from  his  clifif  he  is  tossed 

By  the  waves  that  fiercely  beset  it. 
The  winds  and  the  waves  are  changing  their  strain. 
But  the  Viking's  memory  shall  ever  remain. 

And  the  brave  will  never  forget  it. 

Now  we  will  give  a  hymn  by  Wallin: — 
CHRISTMAS  MATIN  HYMN. 

All  hail  to  thee,  O  blessed  morn! 
To  tidings,  long  by  prophets  borne, 

Hast  thou  fulfillment  given. 
O  sacred  and  immortal  day, 
When  unto  earth,  in  glorious  ray, 
Descends  the  grace  of  Heaven, 

Singing,  Ringing 

Sounds  are  blending. 

Praises  sending 

Unto  Heaven 
For  the  Lord  to  mankind  given. 

'Tis  God's  own  image  and,  withal. 
The  Son  of  man,  that  mortals  all 

May  find  in  him  a  brother. 
He  comes,   with  peace  and   love 
On  earth,  the  erring  race  to  guide 
And  help,  as  could  no  other; 

Rather  Gather 

Closer,  fonder, 

Sheep  that  wander. 

Feed  and  fold  them, 
Than  let  .evil  powers  hold  them. 

He  tears,  like  any  man,  will  shed, 
Our  sorrows  share,  and  be  our  aid, 

Through  his  eternal  power; 
The  Lord's  good  will  unto  us  show, 
530 


THE   CATHEDRAL   OF   LINKOPING   AND   BISHOP   CHARLEVILLE. 


And  mingles  in  our  cup  of  woe 
The  drops  of  mercy's  shower; 

Dying,   Buying 

Through   his   passion, 

Our  salvation, 

And  to  mortal 
Opening  the  heavenly  portal. 

He  comes,  for  our  redemption  sent, 
And  by  his  glory  Heaven  is  rent 

To  close  upon  us  never; 
Our  blessed  Lord  and  Savior  he, 
That  we  may  follow  faithfully 
And  be  with  him  forever; 
Higher,   Nigher 
Glory  Winging; 
Praises  singing 
To  the  Father 
And  his  Son,  our  Lord  and  brother. 

—Translated  by  E.  W.  Olson. 


ESAIAS  TEGNER. 


From  Tegner  we  take  only  the  following: 


Pentecost,  day  of  rejoicing,  had  come.     The  church  of  the  village 
Gleaming  stood  in  the  morning's  sheen.     On  the  spire  of  the  belfry, 
Tipped  with  a  vane  of  metal,  the  friendly  flames  of  the  Spring-sun 

503 


Glanced  like  the  tongues  of  fire,  beheld  by  Apostles  aforetime. 

Clear  was  the  heaven  and  blue,  and   May,   with  her  cap  crowned  with 

roses, 
Stood  in  her  holiday  dress  in  the  fields,  and  the  wind  and  the  brooklet 
Murmured  gladness  and  peace,  God's-peace!  with  lips  rosy-tinted 
Whispered  the  race  of  the  flowers,  and  merry  on  balancing  branches 
Birds  were  singing  their  carol,  a  jubilant  hymn  to  the  Highest- 
Swept  and  clean  was  the  churchyard.     Adorned  like  a  leaf-woven  arbor 
Stood  its  old-fashioned  gate;  and  within  upon  each  cross  of  iron 
Hung  was  a  fragrant  garland,  new  twined  by  the  hands  of  affection. 
Even  the  dial,  that  stood  on  a  hillock  among  the  departed, 
(There  full  a  hundred  years  had  it  stood,)  was  embellished  with  blossoms. 
Like  to  the  patriarch  hoary,  the  sage  of  his  kith  and  the  hamlet. 
Who  on  his  birth-day  is  crowned  by  children  and  children's  children. 
So  stood  the  ancient  prophet,  and  mute  with  his  pencil  of  iron 
Marked  on  the  tablet  of  stone,  and  measured  the  time  of  its  changes, 
While  all  around  at  his  feet,  an  enternity  slumbered  in  quiet. 

— Translated  by  Longfellow. 

The  following  is  by  the  popular  Swedish  poet  in  our  own 
country,  Doctor  Ludvig  Holmes: — 

TO  GUSTAF  ADOLPH'S  PEOPLE. 

Lift  up  thy  brow,  thou  art  a  Swede, 

Of  noble  birth  thou  art; 
The  blood  of  heroes  pulses  through 

Thy  freedom-loving  heart; 
And  in  thy  veins  flows  yet  the  blood 
That  quickened  those  who  fearless  stood 
On  Lutzen's  battlefield. 

Shouldst  thou  be  asked  with  proud  disdain 

Thy  race  and  whence  thou  came, 
The  answer  give  with  cloudless  eye. 

Without  a  blush  of  shame: 
"I   am  a  Swede,   my  home  was  there 
Where  midnight  suns  with  crimson  glare 
Eternal  mountains  crown." 

Shouldst  thou  be  asked  the  reason  why 

Thou  cam'st  to  foreign  land. 
And  if  thou  cam'st  with  this  in  view 

To  fill  with  gold  thy  hand, 
Say,  pointing  to  the  flag  which  waves 
O'er  plains,   and  hills,  and  soldiers'   graves: 
"I  loved  the  'stars  and  stripes.'  " 

Shouldst  thou  be  asked  of  what  belief 
Thou  art,  tell  frank  and  free: 


"I  am  a  Lutheran,  and  my  guide 
I  brought  from  home  with  me; 
It  is  my  Bible;  for  that  word 
Our  fathers  drew  their  faithful  sword, 
And  bought  it  with  their  blood-" 

And  every  year  that  victory 

We  celebrate  with  joy; 
To  God  we  sing,  who  with  his  arm 

Oppression  could  destroy. 
He  chose  our  people  and  our  king. 
Our  Gustaf  Adolph,  Great,  to  bring 
To  mankind  liberty. 


BERNH.-VRD   VON    BESKOW. 


Our  first  extract  was  a  royal  production :  let  us  close  as  we 
began.     The  following  is  by  His  Majesty,  King  Oscar  II.: — 

THE  BALTIC. 

Thou  blue-colored  sea,  that  for  many  an  age 

With  Scandia's  clifTs  hast  contested, 
And  broken  thy  fetters  of  ice  in  thy  rage, 

Then  rolled  on  thy  billows,  snow-crested, 
Of  thee  is  my  song,  for  I  long  to  be  there, 
When  the  billows  are  lashing  the  breakers. 

How  pleasant  the  strand,  how  refreshing  the  shore. 

When  light  vernal  zephers  are  straying. 
When  waves  now  are  green,  and  now  blaze  as  before. 

And  sunbeams  above  them  are  playing; 

505 


The  foam  of  the  surges,  how  brilliantly  white, 
When  billows  are  lashing  the  breakers. 

When  hurricanes  rage  and  destruction  prevails. 

When  mermaids  their  terror  betoken, 
When  masts  and  the  ropes  and  the  well-woven  sails 

By  winds  and  fierce  torrents  are  broken. 
My  heart  swells  with  pride,  inconceivable  pride, 
'Mong  billows  that  roar  at  the  breakers. 

Methinks  that  a  sound  more  than  commonly  clear, 

So  varied  and  full  of  emotion, 
Whose  keynote  speaks  pleasure  and  joy  to  the  ear. 

Re-echoes  far  over  the  ocean. 
Though  winds  rise  and  fall,  it  is  mighty  and  strong. 
When  billows  are  lashing  tlie  breakers. 

The  sailor's  dark  battles  with  wind  and  with  wave 

Require  unyielding  persistence; 
Yet  calmly  he  sails  o'er  the  watery  grave, 

In  love  with  his  rugged  existence. 
And  ploughs  through  the  spray  among  dangerous  rocks, 
When  billows  are  lashing  the  Dreakers. 

He  wrestles  with  winds,  like  fierce  troopers  arrayed, 
W^ith  fogs  and  the  water's  dread  power 

And  often,  aye,  often,  his  hope  is  dismayed. 
At  midnight  in  misery's  hour! 

Of  mortals  not  any  e'er  witness  his  strife; 

But  billows  that  lash  at  the  breakers. 

He  loves  the  blue  waves  from  the  depth  of  his  heart; 

He  seeks  to  encounter  their  danger. 
To  seas  far  away,  he  delights  to  depart, 

Away  from  the  hut  of  the  granger. 
What  wonderful  charms  there  are  hidden  indeed. 
In  billows  lliat  lash  at  the  breakers! 

And  therefore  I  sing,  and  in  truth  I  adore 
To  see  the  blue  waves  in  the  distance. 

A  beckoning  light  around  Scandia's  shore, 
A  guide  to  all  noble  existence, 

While  countless  traditions  from  days  that  are  past 

Ring  forth,  when  the  waves  lash  the  breakers. 

Fair  fetterless  sea,  whose  wild  waters  ne'er  paused 
From  strife,  but  ships  seek  to  devour, 

Oh,  sing  me  a  song  of  the  deeds  that  thou  saw'st, 
And  let  me  interpret  their  power; 

For  charm'd,  I  will  listen  to  all  that  thou  say'st. 

When  billows  are  lashing  the  breakers. 
506 


If  enemies  e'er  threaten  our  own  native  shore, 

And  fleets,  to  our  welfare  untruthful. 
Then  take  the  old  bugle  and  sound  it  once  more: 

"To  arms,  both  the  aged  and  the  youthful." 
The  clash  of  our  weapons  shall  answer  the  call, 
When  billows  are  lashing  the  breakers; 

For  men  of  the   North  are  as  brave  as  of  old 
'Along  mountains  and  valleys  the  fairest; 

Their  faith   is  in   God  and  in  warriors  bold; 
Their  language,  the  ancient,  the  rarest; 

And  he  who  assails  us  shall  find  a  sad  grave 

In  billows  that  lash  at  the  breakers. 

— Translated  by  A.  J.  Pearson. 

While  we  have  been  talking  and  reading  our  train  has  been 
rushing  on  past  Hessleholm  and  other  well-known  points.  We 
have  almost  reached  the  ancient,  interesting  city.  Now  we  are 
already  in  the  suburbs.  At  12:40  our  train  stops  in  the  large 
depot  of  Lund. 

We  knew  at  once  who  our  friends  were.  There  beameil  in 
the  faces  of  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Ribbing  such  a  Swedish  welcome,  so 
much  kindness  and  hospitality,  that  we  found  them  in  the  large 
concourse  of  people  without  any  trouble  or  hesitation. 

The  doctor  was  busy  with  some  professional  duties,  but  his 
amiable  and  highly  cultured  wife  became  our  excellent  escort. 
We  stepped  joyously  into  her  carriage  and  began  the  interest- 
ing task  of  seeing  Lund  in  the  most  full-fledged  American  way. 
We  were  in  a  great  hurry. 

Lund  and  Upsala  are  to  me  the  true  headquarters  of  Sweden. 
They  are  the  educational  centers.  From  the  two  great  uni- 
versities culture  and  learning  are  continually  radiating  through- 
out the  nation,  yea,  much  further.  Some  of  the  distinguished 
citizens  and  defenders  of  these  strongholds  of  learning  are  known 
co-extensively  with  civilization  itself. 

First  of  all  we  visited  the  renowned  Cathedral.  It  is  verily 
a  master-piece  from  whatever  point  one  contemplates  it.  It  is 
large,  it  is  ancient,  but  in  most  excellent  repair.  The  crypt 
below  it,  with  the  giant  Finn  and  his  wife,  are  exceedingly  inter- 
esting.    Mrs.  Ribbing  showed  it  all  to  us  in  a  most  admirable 

manner. 

From  good  authorities  I  will  give  the  kind  reader  the  follow- 
ing history  and  description  of  the  great  Cathedral:— 

"The  most  remarkable  building  at  Lund  is  the  Cathedral  of 

507 


St.  Laurence,  which  was  founded  between  the  years  1060  and 
1072  by  Bishop  Egino  of  England,  during  the  reign  of  King  Swen 
Estridson.     The  work  of  building  was  also  encouraged  and  pro- 
moted by  his  successors,  especially  by  Canute  the  Pious,  who 
endowed  the  church  with  a  large  tract  of  land.     The  church  was 
erected  according  to  the  Romanesque  style  of  architecture  which 
prevailed  at  that  time.     The  plan  of  the  foundation  was  a  Latin 
cross,  that  is  one  having  a  longer  stem  than  cross-piece,  while 
the  Greek  cross  has  arms  of  equal  length.     A  long,  three-vaulted 
extension  on  the  west  embraces  two  square  towers  and  a  one- 
vaulted  cross-extension,  situated  eight  feet  higher  than  the  long 
one,  and  opening  on  the  east  into  a  square  chancel  Vv^ith  a  semi- 
circular jutty.     The  central  vault  of  the  long  extension,  which 
is  twice  as  high  and  broad  as  the  side  vaults,  is  supported  by 
eight  great  and  eight  smaller  pillars.     Eight  vaulted  squares  con- 
stitute the  entire  length  of  the  church  from  the  main  entrance  to 
the  rear  of  the  chancel.     The  cross-building  alone  contains  four 
squares.    The  great  altar  is  placed  in  the  one  on  the  east.     Un- 
der the  cross-building,  chancel  and  jutty,  live  feet  below  the  floor 
of  the  main  building,  there  is  a  crypt,  which  by  means  of  six 
pillars  and  eighteen  columns,  is  divided  towards  the  north  and 
south,  likewise  east  and  west,  into  three  equally  high  and  wide 
passages,  thereby  forming  half  of  a  Greek  cross.     The  chapels 
and  sacristies  of  the  crypt  and  great  chancel  are  situated  in  the 
southeast  and  northeast  corner  of  the  cross-building.     The  entire 
inside  length  of  the  church  is  272  feet,  the  breadth  across  the 
main  building  88  feet,  and  the  height  of  the  central  vault  72  feet. 
The  length  of  the  crypt  from  north  to  south  is  120  feet,  from  east 
to  west  84  feet,  the  width  36  feet,  and  the  height  to  the  points 
where  the  roof  is  supported  14  feet. 

It  is  evident  that  the  frame  church,  which  was  the  first  sanctu- 
ary of  Lund  and  Skane.  after  Christianity  had  been  established  in 
this  place,  had  been  situated  in  the  central  part  of  the  city,  and 
the  Cathedral,  out  of  regard  for  the  sanctity  of  the  place,  had  been 
erected  on  the  same  spot,  which  was  by  no  means  the  most 
suitable  for  such  a  colossal  building,  on  account  of  the  swampy 
land.  The  foundations,  although  built  of  granite  and  sand-stone 
and  sunk  16  feet  below  the  ground  in  a  foundation  of  cement  and 
stones,  and  joined  by  walls  under  the  colonades  and  directly 
under  the  central  vault,  have  given  away  considerably. 

As  the  Cathedral  was  building  for  nearly  eighty  years,  there 

508 


is  no  doubt  that  several  architects  have  worked  upon  it.  None 
of  them  have  preserved  their  names  for  future  generations  by 
inscribing  them  in  the  stones  of  the  old  building.  Only  one 
of  the  architects,  Donatus,  and  one  of  the  master  stone-cutters  are 
mentioned  in  the  old  record-book  ("Necrologium  Lundense") 
and  the  book  of  donations  ("Liber  Daticus")  of  the  church,  but 
without  giving  date  or  place  of  residence;  yet  the  handwriting 
which  resembles  that  of  the  oldest  documents  of  the  Cathedral, 
shows  that  these  men  worked  on  the  church  when  the  build- 
ing had  just  begun,  and  the  probabilities  are  that  they  were 
foreigners,  very  likely  Englishmen  or  Germans.  At  this  time 
Denmark  was  very  intimate  with  England,  from  which  country 
the  parishes  of  Roskild  and  Lund  got  their  first  bishops. 

It  was  customary  during  the  Middle  Ages  to  have  a  certain 
number  to  which  all  the  parts  of  a  church  should  conform.  For 
the  Cathedral  at  Lund  this  number  is  eight,  and  appears  in  all 
the  principal  parts  of  the  structure.  Eight  vaults  constitute  the 
length  of  the  church.  There  are  eight  pillars  in  each  row,  or 
eight  large  and  eight  small  pillars.  Eight  inner  and  eight  outer 
doorways,  two  doors  and  six  windows  in  each  of  the  side  vaults, 
eight  windows  on  each  side  of  the  central  vault,  all  aim  to  express 
the  same  idea.  In  the  crypt  the  eight  is  trebled.  The  roof  rests 
upon  six  pillars  and  eighteen  columns,  twenty-four  in  all;  five 
doors  and  nineteen  windows,  counting  those  that  have  been 
closed  on  the  west  side,  make  twenty-four  in  all.  The  upper 
half  of  the  choir  and  circle,  also  the  chapels  and  sacristies  have 
together  twenty-four  windows. 

One  of  the  rarities  of  this  ancient  metropolitan  temple  of  the 
North  is  the  crypt  that  has  been  mentioned  before.  ]\Iany  of 
these  are  found  in  Italy,  France  and  Germany,  but  in  the  North 
there  are  only  two  besides  this  one.  Crypts  are  scarcely  ever 
found  except  in  the  time  of  the  Romanesque  style  of  architect- 
ure; very  seldom  during  the  time  of  the  Gothic  style.  The 
crypt  of  Lund  bears  the  stamp  of  the  style  prevailing  at  the  time 
in  which  it  was  built,  with  its  heavy,  sombre  forms,  its  massive 
colonades  adorned  with  a  kind  of  rude  art,  its  small  windows  ad- 
mitting but  little  daylight.  There  has  been  a  difference  of  opin- 
ions concerning  the  purpose  of  these  dark  underground  churches; 
yet  it  is  evident  that  this  crypt  was  built  to  be  used  for  a  church, 
as  it  has  been  especially  dedicated  for  this  purpose  and  divine 
worship  was  held  there  during  the   Middle  Ages.     The  great 


altar  of  this  sanctuary  is  still  standing  in  the  circle  of  the  chancel. 
It  is  a  simple  stone  table.  Several  side  altars  have  been  found. 
The  high  and  wide  fundamental  stones  supporting  the  walls  and 
pillars  have  evidently  been  used  for  the  purpose  of  kneeling  on 
during  prayers,  and  in  the  keystones  of  the  arched  vaults  there 
are  yet  to  be  seen  some  iron  rings  used  to  support  the  chandeliers. 
There  are  two  entrances  to  the  crypt  from  the  church  above  and 
one  from  the  outside.  The  two  former  led  from  the  side  vaults 
of  the  church,  the  north  one  being  for  women  and  the  south 
one  for  men.  The  one  on  the  outside  has  undoubtedly  entered 
from  the  adjacent  house  of  the  archbishop,  from  which  a  cov- 
ered passage  led  to  the  door  situated  in  the  north  side-vault  of 
the  upper  church.  Immediately  to  the  right  of  this  passage,  in 
the  north  side-square  there  is  a  well,  which  is  thought  to  be  as 
old  as  the  building  itself.  Before  the  ground  about  the  church 
was  drained,  this  well  gave  forth  a  constant  stream  of  clear,  pure 
water,  and  although  the  well  is  only  six  feet  deep  there  was  never 
any  lack  of  water,  while  some  of  the  very  deep  wells  in  the  city 
dried  up  during  the  summer.  The  reason  of  this  must  be  that 
the  water  is  led  hither  by  a  stone  conduit  passing  through  Hel- 
gonbacken  (the  saint's  hill),  where  such  a  conduit  has  been  found 
15  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  earth.  This  conduit  must  be 
very  old,  for  human  skeletons  have  been  found  buried  in  the 
soil  above  it.  These  skeletons  have  been  encased  in  stone  coffins, 
such  as  were  used  before  Christianity  found  its  way  to  Sweden. 
The  overflow  of  the  well  was  carried  ofif  by  means  of  an  under- 
ground conduit  which  passes  through  the  wall  of  the  south  side- 
square  and  then  branches  out  and  supplies  other  w^ells  in  the 
city.  This  excellent  conduit  which  still  exists  after  the  lapse  of 
eight  centuries  was  probably  constructed  because  of  the  religious 
customs  of  that  time,  which  required  holy  water  for  baptism, 
sprinkling  and  washing  of  hands.  Although  under  such  condi- 
tions it  was  a  great  advantage  to  have  a  well  of  pure  water  in 
the  sanctuary,  yet  it  seems  that  such  were  very  rare,  as  in  the 
North  only  two  besides  this  one  exist,  one  in  the  crypt  at  Dalby 
and  another  in  the  cathedral  of  Upsala. 

The  sacred  architecture  of  the  Middle  Ages  was  m.ore  or 
less  emblematic.  According  to  an  old  legend,  the  cross-shaped 
structure  of  the  Cathedral  at  Lund  represented  the  crucified 
Saviour,  the  choir  with  its  wreath  of  three-cornered  pinnacles  and 
the  gutters  on  the  roofs  jutting  out  in  sharp  points  between 

510 


N^         c 


i 


these,  were  emblematic  of  the  crown  of  thorns,  and  the  two  tow- 
ers represented  John  and  Mary  standing  at  the  foot  of  the  cross. 
The  number  eight  which  occurred  so  often,  represented  a  transi- 
tion from  something  old  to  something  new,  from  which  it  may  be 
conckided  that  the  idea  in  the  plan  of  the  foundation  was  to 
point  out  the  departure  of  heathenism  and  the  entrance  of  Chris- 
tianity to  the  Scandinavian  peninsula.  The  images  within  and 
without  the  church  are  intended  to  call  to  our  minds  the  struggle 
between  man  and  the  powers  of  darkness,  and  the  final  victories 
of  the  righteous  through  the  atonement  of  Christ.  Such  em- 
blems, consisting  of  wonderful  figures  of  human  beings  and 
animals  and  grotesque  collections  of  leaves,  flowers,  birds  and 
other  forms  are  found  upon  the  capitals  of  the  columns  near  all 
the  entrances,  upon  the  arches  which  are  supported  by  these 
columns,  and  upon  the  semicircular  parts  directly  over  the  doors. 
The  most  notable  but  perhaps  the  clumsiest  of  all  these  em- 
blems, are  those  on  two  pillars  in  the  crypt  representing  the  giant 
Finn  and  his  wife  holding  a  child  on  her  arm.  According  to  the 
legend,  the  giant  took  upon  himself  the  task  of  building  the 
church,  provided,  that  when  it  w^as  completed  St.  Laurence 
should  tell  the  giant's  name,  and  if  he  failed  to  find  out  what 
this  was,  he  should  give  the  giant  the  sun  and  the  moon,  or  his 
own  two  eyes.  The  work  went  on  rapidly  and  was  nearly  its 
completion,  but  St.  Laurence  had  not  yet  found  out  the  name  of 
the  giant,  nor  could  he  devise  any  plan  whereby  he  could  dis- 
cover the  same.  Being  very  much  cast  down,  one  afternoon  he 
strolled  out  of  the  town  in  order  to  find  a  place  where  he  could 
meditate  without  being  disturbed.  Seeing  a  tree  on  a  hill  near 
by,  he  threw  himself  down  under  its  friendly  branches.  The 
thought  of  losing  both  eyes  grieved  him  very  much.  While 
thus  brooding  over  his  trouble,  he  heard  a  child  weeping  not 
far  off,  and  the  voice  of  the  mother  saying:  "Be  quiet,  my  son, 
your  father  Finn  will  soon  come  home,  and  then  he  will  bring 
you  the  sun  and  moon  to  play  with,  or  the  two  eyes  of  St.  Lau- 
rence." St.  Laurence  arose  joyfully  and  hastened  home.  When 
shortly  afterwards  the  giant  asked  for  his  pay,  as  now  the  church 
was  almost  finished,  St.  Laurence  answered  him:  "Finn,  be- 
lieve me,  I  will  give  you  no  pay  until  the  church  is  completed." 
When  the  giant  heard  his  name  uttered,  he  and  his  wife,  in  their 
wrath,  each  seized  a  column  in  order  to  overthrow  the  church, 
but  by  the  power  which  St.  Laurence  had  received  from  heaven, 

515 


both  were  immediately  changed  into  stone  images.  This  is  the 
interpretation  of  the  legend.  Finn,  together  with  his  wife  and 
child,  represent  heathenism,  St.  Laurence  Christianity.  For  the 
sake  of  obtaining  money,  the  heathens  were  very  often  willing 
to  help  in  the  construction  of  churches,  providing,  however, 
that  they  should  have  the  sun  and  moon,  or  the  eyes  of  St.  Lau- 
rence, that  is,  the  heathens  wished  to  retain  their  old  religion  of 
nature,  or,  otherwise,  put  out  the  light  of  Christianity.  But  St. 
Laurence  found  the  key  to  the  riddle,  and  therefore  the  at- 
tempts of  heathenism  to  overthrow  the  pillars  of  the  new  faith 
were  without  avail. 

The  building  of  the  church  had  been  begun  in  a  stormy 
time.  Therefore  the  work  progressed  slowly,  but  without  cessa- 
tion, and  on  the  30th  of  June,  1 123,  Archbishop  Asker  was  able  to 
dedicate  the  crypt,  when  the  great  altar  was  consecrated  to  the 
honor  of  John  the  Baptist,  the  patriarchs  and  prophets.  On  the 
1st  of  Sept.,  1 145,  Archbishop  Eskil  had  the  pleasure  of  dedicat- 
ing the  whole  sanctuary.  The  great  altar  of  the  upper  church 
was  dedicated  to  the  honor  of  \'irgin  Mary  and  St.  Laurence. 
The  ceremony  was  performed  with  great  solemnity  in  the  pres- 
ence of  the  two  princes,  Swen  Grathe  and  Canute  (both  in  their 
turn  afterwards  becoming  kings  of  Denmark),  Duke  Eric  and 
his  sons,  the  bishops,  Asker  from  Zealand,  Gisle  from  Ostergot- 
land,  Odgrim  from  Westergotland,  Herman  from  Schleswig,  a 
number  of  prelates  and  priests,  together  with  a  large  crowd  of 
people,  both  from  the  city  and  country.  At  both  of  these  dedi- 
cations the  church  was  richly  endowed  by  the  archbishops  whose 
successors  nearly  always  helped  to  support  her  by  presents  of 
land  and  money. 

Through  the  great  fire  of  1234,  the  church  was  so  badly  dam- 
aged that  it  was  necessary  to  rebuild  a  considerable  part  of  the 
roof  and  choir.  The  windows,  furniture  and  pulpit  were  totally 
destroyed  by  this  misfortune.  In  rebuilding,  the  Gothic  style 
of  architecture,  which  had  now  arisen,  was  used  to  some  extent. 

Space  does  not  permit  us  to  follow  the  many  transformations 
that  have  taken  place  in  the  Cathedral  since  that  time.  The 
new  restoration  is  of  most  interest  to  us.  This  was  under  the 
direction  of  Helge  Zettervall,  who  finally  managed  to  have  a 
resolution  passed  that  the  church  should  be  restored  in  Ro- 
manesque style.  This  meant  that  most  of  what  had  already  been 
repaired  must  be  torn  down  and  a  great  part  of  the  church  re- 


built.  The  work  was  begun  in  the  summer  of  1868  and  advanced 
so  rapidly  that  ten  years  later  the  church  stood  completed  in  its 
new  form,  except  in  some  details.  It  was  more  elegant  than 
ever  before.  With  the  tower  rebuilt  from  the  foundation  in  Ro- 
manesque style,  having  threefold  colonnades  and  elevated  roofs, 
with  its  stately  fagade  on  the  west  and  with  its  ornamented 
gables,  it  was  hard  to  recognize  the  church.  While  it  had  as- 
sumed the  appearance  of  a  church  lately  built,  it  had  lost  its 
heavy  ancient  stamp,  and  diminished  in  historical  interest. 

The  cost  of  the  restoration  amounted  to  1,230,000  crowns 
($332,432) ;  246,000  crowns  ($66,  486)  of  this  sum  was  expended 
upon  the  roof." 

The  inside  decorations  and  furnishings  have  been  completed 
later  on,  at  what  cost  I  am  unable  to  state,  although  it  must  be 
very  great. 

The  organ  is  a  magnificent  instrument,  said  to  be  the  greatest  in 
Scandinavia.    The  late  repairs  alone  cost  20,000  kroner  ($5,405). 

This  church  owns  real  estate,  the  annual  rental  of  which  pro- 
duces a  cash  income  of  about  90,000  kronor  ($24,324). 

The  church  steeples  are  195-i  feet  high.  West  front  is  107 
feet,  the  tw^o  other  fronts  104  feet,  and  the  central  part  98  feet 
high.     Greatest  exterior  length  298  feet,  width  102  feet. 

If  space  permitted  we  would  have  much  more  to  relate  about 
this  most  interesting  Cathedral,  but  the  above  must  suffice  for  the 
present. 

From  the  Cathedral  we  drove  to  the  Tegner-house.  It  is 
exceedingly  unostentatious.  A  tablet  on  the  exterior  bears  the 
following  inscription:     "Here  lived  Esaias  Tegner,   1813-26." 

Only  two  rooms  are  open  to  the  visitor.  The  inner  one  is 
the  studio  and  work-room  of  the  great  poet;  the  other  one  is 
a  small  parlor;  both  are  now  used  as  a  Tegner-Museum. 

There  is  the  lounge  upon  which  the  great  poet  daily  rested. 
It  was  his  custom  to  recline  while  engaged  in  reading.  In  1820, 
recovering  from  a  sickness,  he  penned  on  this  lounge  with  a  lead- 
pencil  the  original  draft  of  his  immortal  poem,  "The  children  of 
the  Lord's  Supper."  Here  we  see  a  mirror,  the  oldest  piece  of 
furniture  in  the  collection,  bought  in  A>rmland  in  1802.  There 
is  a  chess-table,  often  used  by  the  professor-poet-bishop.  Here 
is  a  writing-case,  standing  upon  the  writing-desk,  used  con- 
tinually by  the  great  writer.  There  we  see  an  easy-chair,  a  bu- 
reau, etc. 

517 


There  are  several  autograph  manuscripts  of  much  interest. 

1  valued  a  look  at  them  and  the  writing-desk  more  than  anythin_g 
else  that  I  could  put  my  eyes  on. 

There  is  also  a  library  of  Tegner-literature  which  is  very  in- 
teresting. 

On  the  walls  are  portraits  of  the  great  poet,  and  many  of 
his  contemporaries  in  Sweden  and  other  countries. 

My  heart  was  filled  with  peculiar  emotions  as  I  remembered 
that  we  were  now  standing  in  the  place  where  "Axel,"  "Frithiofs 
Saga,"  "Nattvardbarnen"  and  other  immortal  poems  had  been 
born.  To  one  who  has  read  them,  and  of  them,  from  child- 
hood on,  the  experience  was  exceedingly  pleasant  and  gratifying. 

To  me  Tegner  is  Sweden's  greatest  poet.  His  fame  will 
never  die.     His  works  are  simply  immortal. 

From  the  carriage  we  saw  the  famous  Tegner  monument,  in 
front  of  which  the  Swedish-American  Singers  rendered  some 
beautiful,  patriotic  songs  last  summer. 

We  also  saw  Lundugard,  a  place  dear  to  every  "civis  aca- 
demicus"   of  the   great   university. 

Yes,  the  great  university.  The  earliest  learned  school  of 
Sweden  was  established  at  Lund  already  in  1085  by  King  Canute, 
the  Holy.  The  university  was  established  in  1668.  The  build- 
ings, of  which  we  had  time  to  see  only  the  exterior,  are  very 
fine,  and  some  of  them  modern  and  truly  elegant.  The  splendid 
new  university  building  was  dedicated  Sept.  27,  1882. 

The  Library  contains  about  160,000  numbers  and  is  very  valu- 
able. The  Historical  and  Ethnographical  Museum  contains  10,- 
450  numbers.  The  Numismatic  Collection  contains  17,800  nu- 
mans,  of  which  500  are  in  gold,  9,500  in  silver,  and  the  balance 
in  copper  and  other  metals.  The  Zoological  Museum,  the  Bo- 
tanical Collections,  the  Collections  of  Minerals  and  the  Chemical 
Laboratory  are  all  very  large  and  complete.  Well,  I  have  not 
time  to  mention  all  the  departments,  collections,  organizations, 
and  splendid  buildings  belonging  to  this,  next  to  the  largest 
university  of  Sweden. 

The  university  has  102  instructors,  of  which  29  are  regular 
professors,  18  temporary  professors,  44  "docentes"  (fellows),  and 

2  instructors  in  gymnastics.  The  students  matriculated  this  year 
(spring  of  '97)  number  570,  everyone  of  whom  is  a  college  gradu- 
ate.    No  other  can  be  admitted  at  a  Swedish  university. 

The  attendance  at  the  Upsala  LTniversity  (fall  of  '96)  is  1,505, 


all  post-graduate  students.  In  addition  to  the  above  there  are 
over  15,000  students  registered  in  the  colleges  of  Sweden. 

The  higher  education  of  Sweden  is  not  surpassed  by  any 
nation.  The  requirements,  for  instance,  for  the  M.  D.  degree 
are  said  to  be  more  rigid  in  King  Oscar's  land  than  anvwhere 
else.  The  prospective  M.  D.  must  first  of  all  be  a  college  gradu- 
ate. His  university  course  takes  from  seven  to  ten  years  after 
that.  Even  a  dentist  must  be  a  college  graduate  before  he  takes 
up  the  special  studies  for  his  profession. 

The  carriage  stops  in  front  of  Professor  Ribbing's  inviting 
home.  What  a  pleasant  family  circle  and  how  rapidly  the  hour 
and  a  half  spent  there  passed  away.  The  professor  and  his  lady 
both  speak  English,  and  that  added,  in  our  opinion,  to  their 
many  other  attractive  characteristics. 

As  we  regretfully  said  our  good-bye  at  the  depot,  our  host 
and  hostess  very  kindly  invited  us  to  come  again  and  stay  longer 
in  ancient  and  interesting  Lund. 


519 


CHAPTER  XXXVIL 

NORRKOPING,    LiNKOPING   AND    THE    BaTTLE    OF    St^NGEBRO. 

Everything  that  is  pleasant  on  this  globe  is  evanescent.  We 
had  been  but  a  few  days  in  Stockholm.  So  we  thought  at  least. 
And  though  we  visited  the  exhibition  many  times,  and  felt  really 
at  home  there,  it  was  as  if  we  had  not  had  time  to  see  anything, 
after  all.  I  wished  I  could  have  seen  twice  as  much  and  seen  it 
twice  in  order  to  fully  appreciate  it  and  remember  it  forever. 

One  day  when  I,  for  the  last  time,  wandered  about  among 
the  many  pavilions  I  felt  sad  and  woman-like  enough  to  sit  down 
and  cry  in  a  corner,  had  it  not  been  for  the  short  measure  of  time 
allotted  me. 

Look,  up  there  are  all  the  musical  memories  of  Jenny  Lind, 
Christina  Nilsson,  and  many  others.  Here  is  the  interesting  pa- 
vilion of  Bergsbolaget  or  the  mining  company;  yonder  is  the 
grotto  of  the  Sagas  or  legends;  further  ofif  is  the  great  light, 
there,  to  your  right,  you  see  the  biblical  pictures,  splendid,  grand, 
matchless.  But  why  try  to  embitter  the  hour  of  departure? 
Farewell ! 

And  this  farewell  must  also  apply  to  the  "Malar  Queen,"  to 
Stockholm,  the  Venice  of  the  North.  How  time  sped  away 
here! 

Why,  I  had  not  seen  anybody,  not  seen  anything.  So  I  felt 
now  when  my  time  was  up,  and  duty  urged  me  onward.  Still  I 
had  employed  my  days  judiciously  enough,  and  taken  in  lots 
of  things.  But  there  were  so  many  fields  unexplored.  We 
Americans  have  all  the  great  fault  of  being  in  too  much  of  a 
hurry. 

We  are  at  the  Central  Station.  What  a  crowd,  what  a  jam! 
When  I  say  we  I  mean  ourselves  and  Mr.  A.  E.  Johnson,  the 

520 


Knight  of  the  Order  of  Vasa,  who  was    on        his       way    to 
America. 

This  Mr.  Johnson  is  in  many  respects  a  typical  Swedish-Amer- 
ican. With  the  most  matchless  energy  has  this  boy  from  Verm- 
land,  who  arrived  in  the  United  States  at  the  age  of  fourteen  and 
was  confirmed  by  Pastor  Erland  Carlson  in  Chicago,  made  his 
way  and  his  mark  in  the  New  World.  I  remember  well  how  he 
colonized  the  Red  River  Valley  a  few  years  ago,  and  that  with 
a  vim  and  speed  hardly  ever  witnessed  before,  for  within  a  com- 
paratively short  time  he  had  located  60,000  pioneers  on  the  land. 
He  is  now  the  greatest  immigration  agent  in  the  country,  chief 
owner  of  "Hemlandet,"  shareholder  in  any  number  of  banks  and 
other  financial  concerns,  and  last,  but  not  least,  the  only  man 
in  the  world  who  King  Oscar  has  honored  with  the  Order  of 
\'asa  for  having  drawn  people  from  his  realm  to  America. 

It  is  delightful  to  meet  a  countryman  who  has  been  successful, 
and  that  is  the  reason  it  does  me  so  much  good  to  see  and  speak 
to  Mr.  Johnson.  "Bon  voyage"  to  him  and  his  wife,  as  they  re- 
Uirn  to  the  great  country  beyond  the  Atlantic  billows! 

It  was  our  intention  to  make  a  call  in  Sweden's  greatest  manu- 
facturing city,  the  famous  Norrkoping,  but  I  failed  to  connect, 
as  we  sav  in  America,  because  the  kind  friend  who  was  to  meet 
us  at  the  station  received  our  telegram  too  late  to  be  on  time 
at  the  arrival  of  the  train,  which  was  so  long  that  I  could  not 
hear  his  voice  from  one  end  to  the  other.  Hence  I  am  not  able 
to  give  more  than  a  greeting  from  this  pretty  and  busy  city,  and 
^o  show  some  nice  pictures  of  it,  sent  me  by  the  friend  in  question. 

And  now  we  have  arrived  to  the  old  and  historically  interest- 
ing city  of  Linkoping.  Old,  I  said.  Yes,  indeed.  And  it  un- 
derstands, too,  to  retain  its  ancient  appearance.  Isidor  Kjellberg 
and  his  radical  paper  tried  well  enough  to  modernize  it,  but  failed, 
which  is  no  matter  of  regret,  for  the  one  who  writes  this  Radical- 
ism is  always  abhorrent  to  me,  because  it  is  never  true.  The 
truth  is  central,  not  superficial.  Don't  forget  that,  you  social 
reformers. 

It  happened  to  be  fair-day  when  we  Americans  arrived  at 
the  old  diocese  city.  Thu.s  we  were  put  in  position  to  see  what 
kind  of  cattle  the  good  people  of  Ostgothia  are  able  to  raise.  I 
will  not  boast  of  them.  They  were  both  too  small  and  too  lean 
for  me.  But  perhaps  cattle  of  that  description  are  best  suited 
for  their  purpose.     In  America  they  would  not  do.     Our  cattle 

521 


rj.isers  would  laugh  at  them,  the  reason  being  that  we  only  tliink 
of  good  beefsteaks  and  roast-beef  in  connection  with  cattle.  A 
fatted  steer  stands  higher  in  the  Kansas  market  than  a  good 
horse.     Why,  then,  use  the  ox  for  working  purposes? 

It  was  somewhat  amusing  for  us  Americans  to  see  only  cows, 
steers  and  their  watchers.  A  scene  like  the  one  witnessed  in 
Linkoping  that  day  would  have  been  a  regular  circus  in  Salina 
or  Lindsborg,  and  as  such  able  to  draw  thousands  of  curious 
people.     So  different  are  the  customs  in  different  countries. 

Early  in  the  morning  I  bestirred  myself  to  find  the  place  of 
the  famous  Stangebro-battle,  fought  hundreds  of  years  ago.  Well, 
the  people  of  the  province  of  Ostgothia  are  like  most  others. 
Those  living  in  a  place  of  historical  note  know  the  least  of  the 
history  attached  to  it.  I  inquired  in  a  store,  but  could  obtain 
no  information.  Finally  I  succeeded  in  finding  out  that  the 
square  and  the  circle  in  the  pavement  on  the  market-place  was 
the  exact  spot  where  the  so-called  "Linkopings  blodbod"  (the 
carnage  of  Linkoping)  took  place. 

Next  we  paid  our  respect  to  Bishop  Charleville.  He  received 
us  with  much  kindness.  The  bishop  was  dressed  in  a  gray  suit, 
appeared  to  be  of  a  pious  cast  of  mind,  and  had  eyes  with  which 
he  seemed  able  to  look  through  anything,  or  any  one.  It  was  a 
real  pleasure  for  us  to  converse  a  little  while  with  this  excellent 
man. 

The  bishop  had  his  own  opinion  of  some  of  the  movements 
of  the  day  in  Sweden,  and  it  was  a  source  of  pleasure  to  me  to 
hear  that  his  views  in  many  respects  coincided  with  my  own. 
Of  course,  the  fact  that  he  thought  like  me,  strengthened  me  con- 
siderably  in   my   views. 

The  Swedes  are  somewhat  slow  and  conservative,  that  is  trr^e 
enough,  but  they  are  also  ambitious  to  know  everything,  and 
inclined  to  try  novelties.  But  the  new  is  not  always  better  than 
the  old.  I  think  that  the  Swedish  people  already  have  learned 
to  see  this.  Where,  for  instance,  are  now  the  "blasphemous 
youths"  who  made  so  much  ado  in  the  country  at  the  time  of 
my  first  visit  to  it?     Forgotten,  forgotten! 

After  the  short  but  never-to-be-forgotten  visit  to  the  bishop 
we  went  to  take  a  view  of  the  old,  big,  and  interesting  cathedral. 
In  the  vault  we  read  1400- 1 581.  It  w'ould  be  vain  to  try  to 
tell  of  all  the  memories  this  temple  has  in  keeping.  Here  we  met 
again  Engineer  Nelson  from  Pittsburg,  Pa. 

522 


I 


By  the  bishop  I  had  finally  been  informed  where  the  battle 
of  Stangebro  had  taken  place,  and  he  told  me  also  that  efforts  are 
being  made  to  erect  a  proper  monument  on  the  spot  in  the  course 
of  next  year. 

Now  your  humble  servant  takes  a  stroll  towards  the  canal, 
and  up  the  height  where  the  combat  was  fought  September  25, 
1598.  When  there  I  found  a  simple  granite  block,  ten  feet  high, 
marking  a  spot  on  the  ground  where  the  contestants  met.  On 
the  stone  I  read  the  almost  obliterated  letters,  1598.  I  was  fur- 
ther rewarded  for  my  walk  by  a  most  spendid  view  from  the 
elevation  where  I  stood. 

I  need  not  tell  that  I  felt  solemn  at  the  thought  of  now  stand- 
ing on  the  ground  where  the  Swedish  patriots  and  Lutherans, 
led  by  the  brave  Duke  Carl,  rescued  not  only  the  Protestant 
cause  in  Sweden,  but  also,  through  its  victory  there,  all  over 
the  world.  They,  themselves,  knew  certainly  very  little  of  the 
importance  of  the  result,  but  the  One  who  sees  everything  knew 
it  fully  and  permitted  the  victory  to  go  as  it  did. 

If  Duke  Carl  had  been  vanquished  at  Stangebro  September  25, 
1598,  by  Sigismund,  the  zealous  and  perfidious  Catholic,  who, 
in  that  case,  would  have  continued  to  be  the  King  of  Sweden, 
then  Gustavus  Adolphus  would  not  have  existed  in  history  as 
the  golden  King,  nor  would  Breitenfeld  and  Liitzen  have  had 
any  room  in  either  church  or  profane  history,  but  the  consequence 
would  have  been  the  irretrievable  loss  of  the  Protestant  cause, 
as  far  as  human  eyes  can  see. 

My  teacher  in  history  told  me  many  years  ago  that  "Sweden, 
under  Providence,  has  twice  rescued  the  cause  of  the  Reformation 
and  Protestantism— at  Stangebro  September  25,  1598,  and  at  Liit- 
zen Nov.  6,  1632." 

Does  our  time  acknowledge  this  debt  of  gratitude  to  the  little, 
faithful  and  heroic  Sweden? 

The  next  25th  of  September  it  will  be  just  300  years  since 
this  battle  occurred.  Preparations  for  a  fitting  celebration  of  the 
event  were  begun  months  ago  at  the  Swedish-.\merican  college 
of  Bethany,  Lindsborg,  Kansas.  It  is  safe  to  say  that  that  day 
will  be  the  "forefathers'  day"  all  over  in  the  United  States  where 
Swedes  reside. 

Important  historical  events  ought  always  to  be  conmiemo- 
rated,  especially  for  the  sake  of  the  children  and  young  persons. 
We  must  learn  to  know  what  it  is  to  stand  on  historical  ground. 

5-^5 


What  would  we  be,  we,  the  proud  and  vain  children  of  the  19th 
century,  if  others  had  not  preceded  us,  and  laid  a  solid  and  lasting 

foundation  for  us?  ... 

I  returned  from  the  famous  battle-ground  to  the  city,  m  order 
to  continue  my  journey  southward. 

Now,  don't  forget  the  battle  of  Stingebro,  and  our  memorial 
festivities  this  year! 


526 


CHAPTER  XXXVm. 

At  the  Lannaskede  Springs,  and  with  the  Crippled  Dr. 

Floren. 

Even  in  the  prosaic  America  there  is  to  be  found  friendship 
of  the  old-fashioned  kind.  By  just  such  a  tie  your  humble  serv- 
ant is  intimately  friendly  with  the  reverend  Doctor  J. Emil Floren. 
Twice  we  have  made  the  journey  to  Sweden  in  each  others  com- 
pany, and  if  we  live  long  enough  we  will  do  it  once  more,  as 
all  good  things  constitute  a  trinity. 

My  friend  had  met  with  bad  luck  since  we  parted  on  Swedish 
ground.  He  was  out  riding  with  a  pony  one  day,  and  had  high 
expectations  of  a  pleasant  trip.  The  little  horse,  made  on  the 
diminutive  plan,  became  scared  at  something,  took  a  jump  and 
tipped  over  the  vehicle — something  easy  to  accomplish  with  these 
small  Swedish  things  called  "trillor,"  which  I  would  prohibit  if 
I  was  King.  Floren  got  one  of  his  limbs  crushed  and 
broken,  the  result  being  that  he  had  to  lie  on  his  back  and  stare 
at  the  ceiling  for  a  number  of  weeks.  But  he  took  even  this  in 
his  old, calm  and  patient  way.  To  me  he  wrote,  and  said:  "I 
never  had  a  real  affliction  before,  and  I  suppose  my  turn  had 
come  now." 

Of  course  we  could  not  return  to  America  before  we  had 
called  on  this  dear  brother  who  was  bereft  of  all  opportunities 
to  enjoy  the  latter  part  of  his  stay  in  Sweden. 

From  Linkoping  we  went  direct  to  Safsjo.  We  passed 
Mjolby  3  o'clock  p.  m.  At  Boxholm  we  saw  factories,  saw  mills 
and  mines.  From  Safsjo  we  went  on  the  narrow  gauge  railway 
to  Lannaskede  Spring.  That  piece  of  road  is  a  simple,  funny- 
looking  thing,  running  only  between  Safsjo  and  Hvetlanda,  but 
nevertheless  able  to  pay  a  good  profit. 

At  Safsjo  we  were  met  by  the  former  Augustana  Minister 

527 


Lund,  who  is  now  minister  in  the  Swedish  State  Church.  He 
kindly  went  with  us  to  Lannaskede,  to  see  our  mutual  friend 
Floren. 

From  the  station  the  journey  is  made  in  a  comfortable  car- 
riage for  a  distance  of  two  kilometers  to  the  springs,  widely 
known  for  its  nerve-strengthening  qualities.  Seven  years  ago 
I  stayed  there  several  weeks  and  was  greatly  benefitted  by  the 
treatment,  as  I  have  related  more  particularly  in  my  former  book 
entitled  "In  Sweden,"  to  which  the  reader  is  respectfully  referred 

We  were  very  kindly  received  at  the  Spring  by  Secretary  Toll 
and  other  guests.  But  to  see  Brother  Floren  was  a  special  pleas- 
ure; and  he  was  no  less  delighted  in  seeing  his  friends  from  Linds- 
borg  and  Rev.  Lund.  While  conversing  time  sped  away  un- 
noticed, and  that  night  we  could  not  afiford  to  sleep  much. 
Floren  told  us  how  kind  everybody  had  been  to  him  during  the 
long  weeks  of  confinement  to  the  bed,  and  he  was  very  grateful 
to  God  and  all  his  friends. 

While  laying  there,  suffering  intense  pain,  the  message  came 
from  the  Lutheran  college  at  Wittenberg,  Ohio,  that  he  was 
created  doctor  of  philosophy.  It  was  a  special  pleasure  to  me  to 
hear  that  this  gray-haired  but  still  youthful-looking  student  had 
been  honored  in  this  way  without  having  in  the  least  aspired  to 
the  distinction  now  conferred  on  him.  As  Dr.  Floren  is  pres- 
ident on  the  board  of  directors  of  the  Bethany  College,  it  is  to 
be  presumed  that  the  college  takes  the  doctor's  honor  as  a  tacit 
acknowledgment  of  its  own  value  as  an  educational  institution. 
Congratulations,  Doctor! 

Lannaskede  is  a  particularly  pleasant  place  for  rest  and  recre- 
ation. From  a  guide  or  hand-book  I  quote  the  following  with 
pleasure: 

Lannaskede  Spring  is  a  place  which  for  a  long  time  back 
has  enjoyed  the  well-founded  reputation  of  being  one  of  the  best 
of  its  kind  in  Sweden.  Those  who  have  there  regained  their 
health  and  strength  are  innumerable.  The  elements  making  this 
spring  so  deservedly  famous  are,  too,  many.  Chief  among  them 
is  the  high  and  beautiful  location,  and,  also,  the  strong  mineral 
water,  and  the  clay  used  for  bathing  purposes.  Of  late  years  the 
owners  have  gone  to  vast  expenses  in  order  to  make  improve- 
ments calculated  to  increase  the  attractions  of  the  place,  already 
great  by  what  nature  has  done. 

The  spring  is,  as  we  know,  situated  on  one  of  the  highest 

.S28 


points  of  the  elevated  part  of  Smaland.  Its  height  above  the 
level  of  the  sea  is  no  less  than  700  feet.  To  get  there  after  leav- 
ing the  said  road  station  of  Siifsjo  one  has  to  travel  a  little  ways 
on  the  Hvetlanda  &  Safsjo  R.  R.  to  Lannaskede  Spring  Railway 
Station.  The  spring  itself  is  then  found  at  a  distance  of  two  kilo- 
meters from  that  station,  at  which  public  conveyance  by  vehicle 
is  procured  at  all  times.  The  journey  then  is  made  through  a 
pretty  wood  which  is  calculated  to  raise  your  expectations  high. 
And  none  feels  disappointed  when  emerging  from  the  forest  into 
a  wider  view  of  the  country,  in  the  midst  of  which  stands  the  in- 
stitution, surrounded  by  pretty  villas,  sheltered  by  green  trees, 
on  a  high  ridge,  in  a  valley  watered  by  Emin,  or  the  Em  River. 
It  is  a  smiling  and  attractive  scene. 

The  favorable  impression  of  the  place  received  thus  already  in 
approaching  it  is  not  lost  but  strengthened  after  the  arrival.  The 
pretty  and  carefully  maintained  park,  with  its  beautiful  cottages 
and  their  inviting  verandas,  constitutes  a  most  attractive  picture 
full  of  grace,  peace  and  tranquility.  And  what,  if  not  peace  and 
rest,  should  impress  the  health-seekers,  or  those  looking  for  a 
refuge  from  the  fatiguing  battles  of  life? 

Looking  closer  into  the  institution  we  soon  find  that  every 
provision  has  been  made  for  the  comfort  and  well-being  of  the 
guests.  Within  the  spring  park  proper  we  discover  no  less  than 
five  splendid  cottages  designed  as  dwellings  for  first-class  guests. 
Most  of  the  cottages  are  provided  with  handsome  verandas,  two 
stories  high.  The  rooms  are  all  elegant,  and  well  taken  care  of, 
divided  in  suits  of  two  or  three,  with  kitchen  for  families,  while 
there  are  simple  rooms  for  those  preferring  such.  Most  of  the 
rooms  have  fire-places.  The  buildings  for  the  second  and  third 
class  guests,  and  the  hospital  buildings,  are  all  located  outside  the 
park.  But  they  are  all  built  on  high  and  dry  ground,  consisting 
of  a  long  sandy  ridge,  20  kilometers  above  the  river  running  by. 
In  a  separate  building  are  found  the  restaurant,  and  the  halls  for 
social  gatherings.  Here  the  best  kind  of  board  is  obtained  for 
less  than  two  crowns  (50  cents)  a  day.  In  the  same  building  are 
located  other  conveniences,  such  as  telephone,  drugstore,  mas.^age 
room  and  Swedish  movement  cure. 

Many  Swedish-Americans  are  seen  here  every  year.  And 
wise  are  they.  The  spring  is  excellent  for  common  American 
ailments.  The  nature  around  Lannaskede  is  invigorating  and 
tends  to  give  the  patient  necessary  rest.     The  prices  are  uncom- 

529 


monly  low.  There  were  two  belonging  to  our  company  at  this 
spring  during  the  summer,  and  both  agreed  that  everything  was 
highly  satisfactory.  Many  improvements  have  been  made  since 
I  was  there. 

To  the  friendly  and  accommodating  Mr.  Toll,  Dr.  Lundell  and 
others  whom  I  met  I  send  cordial  greetings. 

The  next  morning  we  returned  to  Safsjo  in  company  with 
Pastor  Lund,  regretting  that  we  had  no  time  to  pay  a  visit  to 
his  hospitable  and  handsome  home. 

From  Safsjo  we  went  direct  to  Sweden's  second  university 
city,  the  old  and  venerable-looking  Lund. 


530 


CHAPTER  XXXIX. 

Eighty  Miles  by  Team  in  Sm^land  and  Vestergotland. 

Now  begins  the  most  romantic  part  of  our  travels  in  Sweden 

In  Elmhult  we  met  the  mother  and  five  brothers  and  sisters 
of  friends  in  Lindsborg.  It  was  a  dear  duty  for  us  to  bring 
American  greetings  to  the  expectant  group.  Just  think  of  it, 
how  a  mother  loves,  prays,  and  patiently  waits.  One  of  her 
children  had  been  in  America  before,  and  no  doubt  longed  to 
return.  One  of  the  daughters  seemed  to  look  upon  America  as 
the  most  horrible  place  upon  the  entire  earth.  We  thank  you 
for  the  flowers.     Welcome  after! 

At  6:30  we  passed  R^shult,  where  Linnaeus  was  born,  and 
saw  the  little  obelisk  stone  erected  to  commemorate  this  event. 
The  great  naturalist,  namely,  was  a  Smalander,  at  which  no  other 
Sm^lander  feels  surprised.  From  Vislanda  we  traveled  by  a 
funny  little  railroad  to  Ljungby.  The  region  was  beautiful  and 
adorned  with  many  small  lakes. 

Not  far  from  Ljungby  extend  fine  shooting-grounds,  where 
the  Crown-Prince  and  his  friends  practiced  their  favorite  sport  a 
few  days  later. 

Some  gentlemen  passed  the  night  at  the  hotel  in  eating  and 
drinking,  and  keeping  other  inoffensive  and  decent  people  awake. 
This  nuisance  exists  on  both  sides  of  the  Atlantic.  If  this  custom 
is  to  be  continued  the  dining-room  ought  to  be  placed  on  the  roof 
or  in  the  cellar,  that  is  certain. 

We  awoke  in  bad  humor  the  following  morning,  and  left 
already  by  the  5:30  train  for  Asen. 

It  was  a  funny,  slow-going  little  train.  At  one  of  the  sta- 
tions I  looked  into  the  baggage-car  and  found,  to  my  horror,  that 
our  "telescope"  grip  was  left  behind.  I  immediately  started  an 
American  row,  but  of  course,  in  as  decent  a  manner  as  possible. 
The  station-master  in  Bolmen  was  an  uncommonly  decent 

531 


fellow.  If  anyone  in  all  Smaland  deserves  praise  he  does,  and 
his  colleague  in  Asen.  The  former,  namely,  sent  immediately 
for  our  baggage,  and  afterwards  sent  his  son  with  it  to  Asen,  and 
yet  asked  no  pay  for  all  this  extra  trouble.     I  still  feel  thankful. 

At  Bolmen  we  saw  the  fine,  large  lake  with  the  same  name. 
We  saw  in  the  woods  near  the  depot  two  does,  which  at  the  dis- 
tance from  the  train  were  just  like  our  deers. 

The  people  in  this  part  of  Smaland  appeared  to  me  very  con- 
servative, and  exceedingly  slow  in  their  movements.  I  thought 
to  myself  that  I  had  never  seen  the  like,  that  I  confess  freely. 

There  came  a  dear,  little  elderly  woman  on  the  train  at  one 
of  the  small  stations.  She  had  walked  quite  ten  English  miles 
on  foot,  to  take  the  train  about  6  o'clock.  From  the  station 
where  she  were  to  alight  she  would  still  have  seven  miles  to  walk 
to  the  place  where  she  intended  to  make  a  call.  She  was  to  return 
in  the  afternoon.  It  amounted  to  a  walk  of  altogether  34 
miles  in  a  day,  besides  the  railway  journey  to  and  fro.  What  do 
our  charming  ladies  in  America  say  to  such  a  journey  on  foot? 

She  looked  to  be  about  45  years  of  age,  and  had  never  before 
traveled  on  a  railway  train.  When  the  engine  started  on  a  ter- 
rific rush  of  about  ten  or  twelve  English  miles  an  hour,  she  be- 
came quite  frightened,  and  naively  wondered  if  it  was  safe  to  re- 
main in  the  car.  Her  childish  terror  appeared  to  me,  who  was 
aggravated  that  it  went  so  dreadfully  slow, — so  thorough  comical 
that  it  put  me  in  good  temper  again. 

In  Bolmen  I  met  a  pleasant,  communicative  gentleman,  whose 
opinion  of  our  dear  Smilanders  in  these  parts  was  much  the  same 
as  I,  myself,  had  pronounced  before.  It  is  always  gratifying  to 
be  confirmed  in  one's  own  opinion. 

Ere  I  forget  it,  I  will  sincerely  and  in  as  emphatic  a  manner 
as  possible  express  my  delight  at  the  postal  savings-banks  in 
Sweden,  which  are  backed  by  the  government  as  a  guarantee  that 
the  depositor  shall  not  be  defrauded.  In  that  Sweden  is  ahead 
of  us  in  America.  Oh,  how  wretchedly  bad  is  not  the  condition 
of  our  savings-banks  in  this  country!  Thousands  of  working- 
men  and  wage-earners  confidently  deposit  their  savings  during 
many  years  in  one  of  these  banks,  and — one  fine  day  they  receive 
— nothing.  Every  savings  bank  ought  to  be  made  as  good  and 
safe  as  the  government  of  Uncle  Sam  himself.  That  it  is  pos- 
sible for  a  savings-bank  to  defraud,  constitutes  in  itself  a  public 
danger,  and  an  element  of  dissolution  amongst  us. 

532 


This  is  Asen.  From  this  place  we  were  to  proceed  in  some 
manner  to  South  Unnaryd,  ten  miles  distant,  in  the  beautiful  re- 
gion of  which  lay  my  mother's  home.  We  had  been  told  that 
there  would  be  no  difficulty  in  obtaining  post-horses. 

Yea,  now  we  were  in  a  fix  in  good  earnest.  No  country  inn, 
no  post-horses,  nothing  but  the  amiable  family  of  the  station- 
master.  There  was  a  grocer  who  usually  provided  meals  and 
post-horses,  we  were  told,  but  to-day  they  did  not  want  to  be 
bothered  with  meals,  and  as  his  buggy  was  new-painted  and  it 
had  rained,  he  would  not  allow  it  to  be  used  to-day.  His  store 
appeared  to  me  to  be  somewhat  related  to  what  we  in  Kansas 
term  a  "joint."  From  a  person  who  lived  a  short  distance  from 
him,  I  afterwards  learned  that  the  obliging  man  sold  brandy 
"hugger-mugger,"  and  from  those  who  get  rich  by  such  means 
nothing  better  can  be  expected.  I  pity  my  poor  Smalanders  at 
Asen  who  must  trade  in  this  by-corner  of  a  store. 

Yes,  here  now  we  were  without  our  baggage,  without  any- 
thing to  eat,  and  without  post-horses  and  buggy.  But  the  sta- 
tion-master and  his  family  were  very  kind  to  us,  so  that  we,  after 
a  couple  of  hours,  got  a  nice  cofifee-lunch.  About  eleven  o'clock 
our  baggage  arrived  on  a  railroad  velociped,  and  at  the  same 
time  we  had,  through  a  third  attempt,  obtained  a  team  at  a  farm, 
but  at  the  very  same  time  we  unexpectedly  had  the  luck  of  having 
the  ofifer  of  a  small  steam-launch  making  an  extra  trip  for  our 
sake  up  to  Unnaryd  for  the  small  payment  of  three  kronor  (about 
82  cents). 

While  we  waited,  from  7:12  to  11:30,  I  had  time  to  chat  with 
the  pleasant  station-master,  who  was  also  post-master,  and  by 
chance  I  met  an  old  couple  who  had  heard  my  father  preach  in 
Unnaryd  more  than  40  years  ago,  and  who  were  acquainted  with 
my  friend.  Professor  Krantz,  and  his  parents. 

Now  we  are  on  board  the  little  steamer,  which  bears  the 
pretentious  name  of  "Freja."  At  three  minutes  before  twelve  our 
trip  began  on  the  beautiful  Lake  Unnen. 

Now  we  were  richly  rewarded  for  all  our  misadventures  in 
the  forenoon.  It  was  a  pretty  lake,  and  the  nearer  we  approached 
Unnaryd  the  more  charming  seemed  the  country  to  be.  If  we 
had  that  lake  in  Kansas,  it  would  be  worth  a  million  dollars.  The 
fault  with  us,  who  are  a  "cold-water  state."  is  that  we  have  not 
water  enough.  By  arranging  artificial  irrigation  we  might  cer- 
tainly acquire  much  which  nature  has  forgotten  to  bestow  upon 

537 


us,  but  it  will  tarry  long  yet,  for  even  we  are  afraid  of  anything 
new,  however  excellent  and  useful  it  might  be. 

O,  how  picturesque  that  little  Unnaryd  lies  at  the  foot  of 
the  long-sloping  height,  close  to  the  shore  of  the  lake.  I  am  in- 
deed surprised  that  there  is  not  any  crowded  tourist  hotel  here, 
for  where  can  we  find  a  more  beautiful  neighborhood,  w'here 
tired  people  might  rest  and  gain  renewed  strength? 

We  soon  found  my  dear  maternal  aunt,  who  had  not  re- 
ceived my  letter,  and  who  was  therefore  mightily  surprised  to 
receive  visitors  from  America.  I  was  heartily  delighted  to  see 
the  old  dame.  I  felt  as  if  I  once  more  had  seen  my  own  mother, 
she  who  had  been  called  away  to  the  better  land  more  than  a 
quarter  of  a  century  ago,  and  who  can  then  be  surprised  if  at 
the  same  time  my  heart  felt  touched  and  beat  quicker  than  usual? 

After  that  I  went  to  call  upon  my  father's  good,  old  friend, 
poor,  blind  August  Andreen,  now  I  expect  between  60  and  70 
years  old,  the  son  of  Dean  Andreen.  He  was  alone  at  home  in 
his  cozy  domicile.  When  he  found  who  it  was,  he  received  me 
so  cordially  and  kindly,  that  I  shall  never  forget  it.  No  won- 
der that  my  father  was  so  affectionately  attached  to  such  a  friend. 

I  got  to  know  much  from  Mr.  Andreen,  which  relates  to  my- 
self privately,  but  is  of  no  interest  to  the  general  reader.  Then  we 
had  to  part.  We  stood  close  to  each  other.  "Pardon  me,"  he 
said,  and  then  he  felt. with  his  hands — how  I  looked.  "Poor 
shaving-soap,"  said  my  fatherly  friend,  when  he  lightly  touched 
my  chin.  (I  had  had  some  misinadventure  in  the  forenoon, 
and  was  therefore  unshaved.)  "Let  me  give  you  a  bit  of  Swedish 
shaving-soap."  Quite  easily  he  w'ent  to  a  closet  and  produced 
the  finest,  whitest  piece  of  shaving-soap  imaginable. 

We  talked  still  more  about  song  and  music,  and  the  land- 
scape around.  O,  how  true  is  it  not  to  this  day,  that  those  who 
have  no  eyes  often  see  more  than  those  who  have  eyes  wherewith 
to  see. 

We  met  again  after  a  while  at  my  aunt's  home.  O,  how  I 
regret  that  for  the  sake  of  Asen  those  moments  at  Unnaryd  were 
so  brief!  But  the  friends  we  there  met  remain  endeared  to  our 
hearts  forever.     Farewell!     Au  revoir! 

Well,  now,  of  course,  we  were  to  view  the  dear,  old  fane, 
where  my  mother,  during  her  girlhood,  had  frequented  divine 
service,  and  in  which  my  father  during  five  years,  with  great 
blessings,  had  preached  the  gospel.    Now  we  are  already  outside 

538 


the  church  and  send  the  driver,  a  lad,  to  the  parsonage  to  obtain 
the  key.  He  soon  came  back,  and  said,  discouraged:  "The 
vicar  said  that  the  gentleman  himself  must  come  for  the  key." 
This  aggravated  me  much,  I  confess  it  freely.  Such  haughtiness 
does  not  become  a  clergyman,  and  last  of  all  towards  strangers, 
and  that  obliging,  complaisant  vicar  was  welcome  to  stick  to 
his  key  on  my  account.  My  wife  and  myself  looked  as  well  as 
we  could  through  the  windows  at  the  beautiful  altar-piece  and 
the  general  interior  of  my  father's  and  mother's  church,  and 
after  that  we  continued  our  journey  without  any  further  troub- 
ling his  reverence  in  the  parsonage. 

I  might  certainly  have  obtained  the  key,  if  I  had  gone  myself, 
and  properly  accounted  for  myself,  I  have  no  doubt,  but  in  the 
hospitable,  polite  and  perfect  Sweden  the  vicar's  prelate-like  ac- 
tion seems  to  me  so  uncalled  for,  so  contrary  to  all  else  we  had 
experienced,  both  at  Unnaryd  and,  as  for  that,  all  over  Sweden, 
that  even  now  I  cannot  think  of  it  quite  calmly. 

We  had  an  excellent  team  of  post-horses,  and  the  journey 
along  the  beautiful  road  was  very  pleasant.  We  had  soon  seen 
the  churches  at  Fargaryd  and  Langaryd,  and  shortly  afterwards 
we  had  reached  Nyby,  from  where  w'e  immediatclv  continued 
to  Bodoryd  where  we  stopped  to  rest  a  while,  get  supper,  and 
change  post-horses. 

With  fresh  horses  we  continued  our  journey  to  Smalands- 
stenar.  There  we  w^ere  met  by  a  team  from  relatives  in  \>stergot- 
land.  We  continued  our  journey  past  Willstad  and  Visthult  dur- 
ing the  course  of  the  night.  We  stopped  a  short  while  at  Ryd 
to  convey  greetings  from  America.  At  3:30  a.  m.  we  arrived 
betimes  to  our  dear  relatives  in  Emtashult. 

It  was  quite  an  adventurous  and  romantic  trip.  The  last 
part  of  the  road  was  so  exceedingly  bad  that  the  driver  had  to 
walk  beside  the  narrow  gauged  vehicle  to  hold  it  up.  Aly  wife 
was  hardier  than  myself.  With  only  half  an  hour's  rest  at  Bo- 
loryd,  she  had  been  seated  in  the  vehicle  from  4:15  in  the  after- 
noon till  3 :30  the  following  morning  without  complaining.  We 
had  traveled  7^  Swedish  miles,  or  approximately  f,o  English 
miles. 

It  was  now  good  to  be  able  to  rest  a  few  hours  with  our  dear 
friends  and  relatives  in  Emstahult. 

Next  morning  I  wanted  to  know  evervthing  from  my  cousin 
and  her  husband,  which  latter  had  lived  five  years  in  America. 

539 


I  wr.s  now  in  the  home  of  an  intelHgent  farmer  in  \^estergotland, 
and  had  soon  seen  their  farm-yard,  orchard,  fields  and  meadows, 
everything  v^ith  the  usual  American  speed  and  hurry. 

That  the  husband  of  my  cousin  was  an  excellent  farmer  was 
soon  evident,  and  that  he  has  a  good  helper  in  the  housekeeping 
was  easy  to  understand.  From  what  I  learned  of  him  and  others 
that  I  met  with  last  summer  in  Sweden,  the  following  informa- 
tions have  been  summarized: 

The  farmers  in  Sweden,  in  most  instances,  must  work,  calcu- 
late and  save  more  carefully  than  our  Swedish  farmers  in  Ameri- 
ca can  comprehend.  The  latter  are  much  better  ofT  than  they 
really  know.  In  certain  parts  of  Sweden  things  are  more  favor- 
able, in  certain  places  of  America  conditions  are  worse,  we  ad- 
mit, but  as  a  rule  it  is  generally  thus. 

I  am  myself  a  descendant  from  farmers  and  soldiers,  both  ©n 
my  father's  and  my  mother's  side,  and  I  still  maintain  that  an 
intelligent  farmer,  free  from  debts,  is,  or  at  any  rate  ought  to  be, 
the  most  independent  and  happiest  man  conceivable. 

The  government  of  the  country  ought  to  do  all  what  is  in 
its  power  to  encourage,  protect  and  make  farming  as  profit- 
able as  possible.  This  is,  at  least  in  vast  tracts  of  America,  the 
mainstay  and  principal  source  of  existence.  When  the  farmers 
are  prosperous,  everyone  else  also  succeeds,  and  vice  versa. 

In  Sweden  the  people  agitate  for  a  rational  mode  of  farming, 
over  which  everyone  certainly  ought  to  rejoice. 

The  long  winters  at  home  are  awfully  expensive  for  the  Swed- 
ish farmers  and  stock  raisers.  The  fodder  question  becomes  one 
of  the  most  important.  Even  in  the  condemned  western  part  of 
Kansas  the  Swedish  farmer  can  succeed  better,  if  only  he  works 
rationally — than  in  many  parts  of  Sweden.  I  met,  for  instance, 
on  the  train  one  day  last  week,  a  Swedish  huswife  from  Wallace 
county,  in  our  state.  They  possess  at  her  home  about  30  cows. 
These  exist  mainly  on  the  perennial  bufifalo  grass  on  the  prairies. 
The  Swedish  farmer  had  bought  his  own  separator,  makes  butter 
every  week-day,  sends  it  twice  a  week  to  Denver,  and  makes 
yearly  by  each  cow  between  $25  and  $30  alone  on  the  butter,  and 
gets  he   calves  and  the  butter-milk  besides. 

After  I  had  learned  from  my  relative,  among  other  things, 
that  she  sells  the  sucking  pigs  when  three  or  four  weeks  old  with 
greater  profit,  and  that  the  Swedish  farmer,  on  account  of  the 
fodder,  must  carefully  calculate  how  many  horses  and  cows  he 

540 


can  feed,  etc.,  I  perceive  better  than  before  that  the  Swedish 
farmer  also  in  America  will  gradually  be  more  attracted  by  the 
South,  both  for  the  sake  of  the  climate  and  that  of  the  fodder. 

Now  then,  Kansas  is  already  much  better  than  Minnesota, 
Nebraska  and  Illinois.  We  have  short  winters,  the  fodder  is 
cheap  in  price,  and  we  trade  directly  with  England,  and  possess 
good  ports  in  the  South,  and  the  alfalfa,  that,  wonderful  fod- 
der plant,  thrives  exceedingly  well  in  out  southern  climate. 

Our  beefs,  our  pork,  our  butter,  our  eggs  and  chickens  are 
already  extensively  known,  but,  although  as  a  Kansas  man,  I  am 
proud  of  our  state,  I  must  still  admit  that  Southern  Texas 
with  its  mild  climate,  tempered  by  the  sea-breezes,  its  exemption 
from  winter  cold,  its  capacity  of  producing  almost  everything 
which  can  be  raised  in  the  North,  and  cotton  besides,  its  fertile 
soil,  so  unlike  the  frequently  poor  soil  elsewhere  in  the  South, 
the  cheapness  of  land,  etc.,  strikes  me  forcibly  as  the  future  coun- 
try of  farming.  One  of  our  most  experienced  farmers  in  Kansas 
said  recently,  com.firmatorily :  "If  I  were  to  begin  again,  it  would 
be  in  Texas." 

I  am  consequently  delighted  that  Swedes  by  the  thousand 
have  already  settled  there  with  the  promising  El  Campo  as  prin- 
cipal location.     May  they  succeed! 

Ugh,  those  cold  w'inters!  I  suppose  I  am  spoiled  by  the 
mild  climate  of  Kansas,  but  who  can  keep  from  wondering  at 
times  how  the  folks  in  Minnesota,  Dakota  and  Nebraska  manage 
during  their  long,  cold  and  expensive  winters.  They  must  be  re- 
markably less  chilly  than  we  are,  else  I  can  verily  not  understand 
it  at  all. 

One  thing  I  know:  It  is  both  wise  and  cheap  not  to  have 
cold  winters. 

Your  pardon,  I  am,  however,  still  in  Vestergotland  just  now. 
After  a  while  came  other  friends  to  make  a  call,  among  whom 
was  a  dear,  old  school-teacher,  Mr.  Peterson,  now  on  the  retired 
pension  list.  The  invitations  to  visit  in  the  neighborhood  we 
must  deplore  that  we  could  not  accept  of. 

With  the  school-teacher,  Peterson,  it  was  particularly  pleas- 
ant to  converse.  He  seemed  to  know'  all  things  relative 
to  Sweden,  and  I  beg  leave  to  reproduce  from  his  pen  the  fol- 
lowing description  of  a  thing  which  surely  will  interest  all  my 
readers,  namely,  the  history  of  the  Swedish  common-school  cul- 
ture. 

541 


"During  all  the  time,  when  the  darkness  of  paganism  pre- 
vailed in  our  land,  we  find  no  evidences  of  any  genuine  instruction 
for  the  enlightenment  of  the  soul.  Then  only  brutal  physical 
strength  was  valued.  This  time  in  our  land  can  therefore  with 
respect  to  the  culture  of  the  soul  be  likened  unto  a  dark  night. 

With  the  advent  of  Christianity  into  our  land  we  find  a  few 
dim  traces  of  the  commencement  of  a  secular  instruction  for  the 
coming  generation.  Then  it  was  that  the  monks  and  nuns  in  the 
cloisters  tried  to  communicate  the  learning  they  possessed  to  a 
few  boys  and  girls.  However,  it  was  then  only  a  few  of  the  so- 
called  noblemen's  sons  and  daughters  who  enjoyed  any  instruc- 
tion, but,  in  a  spiritual  sense,  in  an  adverse  tendency  of  the  soul, 
which  depended  upon  the  fact  that  monks  and  nuns  as  teachers 
had  an  altogether  too  vague  conception  of  the  right  and  true 
light.  The  only  thing  which  was  taught  the  people  was  several 
formal  prayers  such  as  "Pater  Noster,"  "Ave  Maria,"  and  the 
"Angels'  Greeting,"  and  how  to  make  the  sign  of  the  cross  on 
breast  and  forehead.  Literary  knowledge  was  out  of  the  ques- 
tion. The  Bible  was,  during  the  Catholic  times,  a  sealed  book 
to  most  of  the  people,  and  was,  moreover,  not  accessible  in  the 
language  of  the  land.  The  Catholic  times  may  thus  be  likened 
to  a  darksome  night,  lit  up  by  fitful  beams  of  moonlight. 

With  the  reformation  began  a  new  epoch  in  Christianity  also 
in  our  country,  and  with  that  also  in  the  history  of  the  parochial 
common  schools.  For  the  foundation  of  Christian  public  instruc- 
tion, the  great  scholar  Luther,  himself,  designed  the  right  plan, 
and  thereby  originated  the  present  public  instruction — and  he  was 
unquestionably  the  right  man  to  do  so.  Sprung  from  the  people, 
he  knew  the  wants  of  the  people,  and  understood  how  to  think 
and  speak  in  the  manner  of  the  people.  This  one  was  a  man 
equipped  by  God,  for  in  his  nature  he  combined  all  the  elements 
which  during  the  last  century  of  the  middle  ages  sought  to  bring 
about  a  reform  of  the  degenerated  religion.  Already  before  the 
beginning  of  the  Reformation  proper  in  1517,  Luther  had  issued 
several  catechical  writings.  Later  on  he  issued  introductory 
works,  and  in  1529  he  allowed  his  Greater  and  Smaller  Catechism 
to  be  published.  These  two  catechisms  placed  the  Reformation 
into  the  hands  of  priests,  teachers,  and  heads  of  families,  and  in 
this  manner  gave  them,  and  through  them,  the  youths  knowledge 
in  the  fundamental  truths  of  salvation.  The  reading  of  the  Bible 
was  at  this  time  also  recognized  as  a  principal  part  of  Christian 

54^ 


instruction.  Before  everything  else,  says  Dr.  Luther,  in  higher 
and  lower  schools  as  well,  the  principal  and  most  common  lesson 
should  be  in  the  Holy  Scriptures. 

In  the  school  in  which  the  Holy  Scriptures  does  not  rule  I 
would  most  assuredly  not  advise  anyone  to  place  his  children. 
Indeed,  the  word  of  God  is  like  the  sun  whose  light  is  reflected 
by  all  other  bodies  so  that  they  also  may  shine. 

Luther  and  the  other  co-reformers  urged  the  erection  of 
schools  for  the  use  of  common  citizens;  still,  the  first  care  in  this 
respect  must  be  to  educate  able  men  for  the  state  and  church. 
The  evangelical  spirit,  however,  by  degrees  brought  forth  school 
measures  to  meet  the  needs  of  the  common  people. 

During  the  first  decade  of  the  reformation  a  point  and  a  goal 
had  been  reached  in  its  native  land.  Germany,  which  could  not  be 
attained  in  our  land  for  a  long  time.  The  reason  for  this  is 
easily  found.  The  motive  power  of  the  Reformation  was  far  dif- 
ferent here,  as  was  also  its  nearest  goal.  Church  improvement  in 
our  land  began  as  an  outward  political  operation,  which  was  not 
properly  brought  forth  by  an  inner  spiritual  necessity,  but  was 
first  prescribed  by  the  force  of  outward  conditions  and  the  state 
craft  of  the  government. 

The  man  who  stands  out  most  prominently  as  a  reformer,  is 
the  ruler  of  the  country.  King  Gustavus  I.  He  urges  the  work 
in  the  first  place  through  love  for  his  country's  liberty  and  inde- 
pendence, probably  in  the  second  place,  through  the  demands  of 
piety  in  his  own  heart. 

In  Germany,  on  the  other  hand,  the  Reformation  proceeds 
from  the  deep  rank  of  the  people,  and  in  general  first  takes  root 
with  the  people  before  the  princes  take  it  under  their  protection. 
With  us  it  goes  almost  exclusively  from  above  downwards  and 
the  king  has  many  a  hard  bout  with  the  people  before  they  will 
give  up  the  masses  and  monks  which  they  wish  to  support  and 
fatten. 

A  longer  time  was  therefore  necessary  here  before  the  ideas 
and  principles  of  the  Reformation  could  become  clear  to  the 
masses.  Fortunately  those  men  who  stood  on  the  side  of  the 
king,  and  who  were  directly  entrusted  with  the  execution  of  his 
behests,  conceived  the  Reformation  more  as  something  inward 
than  as  something  outward,  so  that  a  change  was  occasioned, 
though  slowly,  in  the  inner  foundation  of  the  people's  conscious- 
ness. 

543 


But  we  know  from  history  how  continual  warfare  occupied 
both  the  time  and  care  of  the  people  and  the  government,  so  that 
soul  culture  was  neglected,  manners  often  became  coarse,  and 
in  some  parts  of  the  land  even  barbaric. 

It  is  properly  the  so-called  great  men  in  the  state  and  church 
alike  whom  we  have  to  thank  for  the  first  measures  for  the  ad- 
vancement of  public  instruction,  through  institutions  similar  to 
our  present  public  schools. 

Charles  IX.,  Gustavus  Vasa's  youngest  son,  who  so  ably  con- 
tinued the  work  his  father  began,  instituted  the  first  real  public 
schools  in  the  country,  in  his  duchy  of  Vermland.  In  an  account 
of  Vermland  by  Fernow  it  is  asserted  "that  in  those  places  where 
these  schools  were  found,  the  education  of  children  already  in 
1637  had  attained  such  progress  that  there  could  hardly  be  found 
a  single  peasant  child  who  could  not  read  and  write."  A  century 
and  a  half  later  the  same  testimony  w^as  given  concerning  the 
continued  activity  of  these  schools. 

The  strife  between  the  different  religious  tendencies  of  the  two 
Vasa  sons  produced  in  one  (Charles)  a  decision  and  action  to 
found  public  schools. 

John  III.'s  efforts  to  regain  the  Catholic  mass,  w^hich  soon 
gave  renewed  excitation  to  the  Catholic  doctrine,  not  yet  for- 
gotten by  the  people,  found  an  unalterable  opposition  in  Duke 
Charles'  staunch  affection  for  the  evangelical  doctrine.  The  duke 
must  have  realized  that  the  best  way  of  furthering  the  progress 
of  evangelical  light  among  the  people  was  to  teach  them  to  read 
the  word  of  God.  Therefore  he  and  his  constituent  clergy  and 
civil  officers  established  public  schools. 

In  the  seventeenth  century  not  a  few  public  schools  were 
established  through  the  efforts  of  zealous  clergymen  and  noble- 
men in  most  of  the  provinces  of  Sweden.  Eight  years  after  the 
death  of  Charles  IX.  Johan  Rudbeckius  entered  upon  the  duties 
of  the  bishopric  of  Vesteras.  Flimself  one  among  the  most 
learned  men  of  his  time,  intelligent  and  active,  he  labored  with 
restless  zeal,  both  for  higher  education  and  for  common  public 
instruction. 

That  our  great  King  Gustavus  Adolphus  was  a  zealous  sup- 
porter of  public  instruction  we  know.  Thus,  for  instance,  he 
ordered  especially  for  cities  "that  those  children  who  at  16  years 
of  age  could  not  read  and  write  should  lose  one-third  of  their 
inheritance."     But  the  severely  felt  wars  were  a  great  hindrance. 

544 


NORKKOPING;      1.      CAUL  JOIIAN" 
THE  OLD   MARKET.      3. 


SC^LAUE.      2.      HULMEN  6   FACTOUV    AXD 
THE   COTTON  MILL   OF   GUYT. 


However,  at  least  eighteen  public  schools  were  erected  in  the 
bishopric  of  Vesteras.  In  Sodermanland  Admiral  Gyllenhjelm 
established  public  schools  in  1629  on  his  estates.  Earl  Magnus 
Gabriel  De  La  Cardie  founded  five  public  schools,  and  allowed 
grain,  corn  and  means  to  be  contributed  from  his  country-seats 
for  their  future  support.  Four  of  these  schools  were  built  in 
Vestergotland.  In  Smiland  Earl  Brahe  founded  two  public 
schools.  Gyllenstjerna,  governor  of  the  province,  in  1651, 
founded  a  school  in  Vrikstad.  The  king's  councillor,  Johan 
Skytte  in  1637  founded  a  school  in  the  parish  of  Alem,  Kalmar 
province.  During  his  travels  in  the  interests  of  public  schools. 
Count  Rudenskold  visited  this  region  in  1854  and  then  received 
from  the  judge  of  the  district  the  testimony,  concerning  the 
efficiency  of  the  school  for  200  years,  "that  the  people  in  the 
parish  of  Alem  were  distinguished  above  the  neighboring 
parishes  both  in  intellectual  and  other  respects."  The  Rural 
Dean  Dryselius  in  Jonkoping,  Bishop  Spegel  in  Linkoping,  and 
many  others  should  be  gratefully  remembered  as  zealous  pro- 
moters of  public  instruction.  These  older  schools  from  the 
seventh  century  have  a  great  and  important  significance.  They 
were  the  beacons  of  light  from  which  the  art  of  book  reading 
gradually  radiated  among  the  Swedish  people,  and  had  through 
years  of  activity  advanced  the  education  of  children  to  such  a 
point  that  it  did  not  remain  unnoticed  by  the  legislature. 

With  reference  to  these  Bishop  Spegel  considered  it  proper 
to  propose  to  King  Charles  XL  that  in  the  canon  law  of  1686  it 
should  be  enacted  that  a  universal  reading  of  books  among  the 
common  people  should  be  brought  into  use. 

What  fruit  the  century  of  Reformation  brought  with  it  by 
way  of  knowledge,  and  in  the  foundation  of  a  true  religious  senti- 
ment among  the  people,  we  have  now  in  part  presented. 

Superstition  was  certainlynot  conquered, nor  ignorance  either, 
but  religion  prevailed  in  state  and  church.  Legislation,  public 
and  private  life  began  to  bear  the  impress  of  the  influence  of 
Cliristianity.  We  should  not  forget  in  the  history  of  public  in- 
struction one  of  the  teachers  of  the  Swedish  church  standing  in 
an  unnoticed  position,  Daniel  Anander,  sponsor  of  the  movement 
which  introduced  pietism.  In  1683  he  published  a  pamphlet  in 
which  he  urged  reform  in  the  then  prevailing  poor  manner  of 
preaching,  but  he  also  advocates  the  necessity  of  schools  in  every 
congregation,  and  advises  that  it  is  urgent  to  erect  school  houses 

547 


so  that  children  of  both  sexes  may  be  instructed,  that  the  salaries 
of  the  teachers  should  not  depend  on  the  good-will  of  the  parents, 
but  should  be  determined  by  law. 

All  instruction  in  the  truths  of  Christianity  must  be  founded 
upon  the  catechetical  as  a  basis.  To  try  to  instruct  the  totally 
ignorant  through  catechetical  sermons,  as  then  often  happened, 
was  just  as  unreasonable  as  to  learn  reading  and  grammar 
through  lectures  from  the  cathedra.  As  a  support  for  his  proposi- 
tion Anander  cites  Germany  as  an  example,  where  almost  in  every 
village  able  instructors  were  found.  'Shall  we,  then,  be  backward,' 
says  he;  'or  are  those  few  schools  we  have  sufficient,  where  ha-rdly 
every  hundredth  boy  has  access  to  instruction,  and  where  the 
female  sex  is  almost  entirely  excluded?'  Nor  were  any  very  ex- 
tensive measures  necessary.  As  a  teacher  an  able  parish  clerk 
could  be  used  who  should  be  under  the  supervision  of  the  pastor, 
and  the  bishops  and  deans  at  their  visitations  should  examine 
how  the  duties  were  performed.  Anander  says  further:  'God- 
fathers who  now  generally  become  breakers  of  their  promises, 
could,  through  zeal  in  furthering  the  attendance  of  their  children 
at  school,  somewhat  ease  their  consciences.' 

Even  if  this  urging  of  Anander  for  public  schools  in  every 
congregation  was  nothing  but  a  voice  crying  out  in  the  wilder- 
ness, it,  nevertheless,  in  connection  with  other  demands,  evinces 
that  a  more  general  need  of  institutions  for  the  elevation  of  popu- 
lar culture  had  appeared,  and  that  the  people  were  on  the  right 
way  to  the  realization  thereof. 

The  reading  of  books  by  all  Swedish  members  of  the  Swedish 
church,  which  was  prescribed  in  the  canon  law  of  1686,  and  ac- 
cording to  the  same  should  be  attended  to  by  the  curate,  or  the 
parish  clerk,  was  not  made  obligatory  until  1723. 

Despite  the  many  more  or  less  difficult  obstacles  which  in  this 
world  always  place  themselves  in  the  way  of  a  good  movement, 
the  friends  of  public  instruction  labored  faithfully  for  the  general 
establishment  and  development  of  schools.  Their  number  in- 
creased steadily  and  many  stationary  schools  were  erected  during 
the  eighteenth  century  by  landowners  and  clergymen,  not  only  by 
the  opulent,  but  also  by  such  whose  incomes  were  not  very  large. 
An  instance  in  evidence  will  show  this.  Any  one  who  travels  in 
Skane,betweenYstad  and  Simbrishamn,will  observe  in  thevillage 
of  Tunarp  a  brick  house.  At  the  entrance  he  will  read  the  follow- 
ing:    "To  the  glory  of  God's  name  and  the  improvement  of  the 

548 


}Ouths  in  the  congregation  of  Tunarp,  this  school  house  was 
built  at  his  own  expense  by  Pastor  Nils  Xyman,  1728." 

Examples  of  rich  farmers  in  Skane  who  at  their  own  expense 
have  erected  school  houses  could  also  be  presented.  In  certain 
parts  of  the  country  there  were  accordingly  at  the  middle  of  the 
1 8th  century  not  a  few  stationary  parish  schools.  First  in  this 
respect  are  the  bishoprics  of  Upsala  and  Vesteras,  and  following 
these  the  bishopric  of  Lund;  but  in  the  bishopric  of  Gothenburg 
there  were  but  nine  fixed  school-institutions  during  this  time. 

The  first  in  our  land  who  awakened  interest  in  the  question 
of  seminaries  in  order  to  get  better  pedagogical  qualifications 
among  teachers  seems  to  have  been  Giillik,  Dean  of  Qvidinge 
in  Skane.  He  proposed  at  the  Synod  in  Lund,  1764,  that  such 
a  seminary  should  be  established  at  Lund,  but  this  brought  about 
no  result  until  74  years  afterwards.  In  Lund,  however,  the  first 
Swedish  seminary  was  established,  even  before  the  issue  of  the 
public  school-ordinance. 

The  friends  and  promoters  of  public  instruction  scattered,  as 
we  before  have  noticed,  all  over  the  country,  worked  for  the 
noble  aim,  each  and  every  one  in  his  own  region,  and  with  the 
means  at  his  command,  now  began  gradually  to  know  each  other. 
A  common  goal  drew  them  together.  Union  is  strength.  Thus 
two  societies  were  formed  during  the  last  half  of  the  past  century 
which  labored  for  the  advancement  of  public  instruction  in  the 
nation. 

The  first  of  these  was.  The  Swedish  Society  Pro  Fide  et  Chris- 
tianismo,  founded  in  Stockholm,  1771.  It  issued  among  other 
publications  the  so-called  child-book  of  the  crown-prince,  first 
edition  printed  in  1780,  which  rapidly  won  universal  approval, 
and  was  spread  over  the  whole  country  in  several  editions.  This 
society  founded  three  catechetical  schools  in  the  capital,  where 
according  to  the  original  decision  older  persons  of  both  sexes, 
who  during  their  youth  had  had  no  instruction,  were  given  oppor- 
tunity to  learn  to  read  in  book,  and  in  the  catechism.  These 
catechetical  schools  were  increased  in  181 7  to  seven.  Dr.  Schu- 
bert, of  Germany,  at  one  time  visited  these  schools,  and  found  in 
them  pupils  even  forty  years  old.  The  instruction  was  later  on 
extended  so  that  even  children,  apprentices,  and  servants  were 
admitted.  The  society  used  annually  to  distribute  22  riks  daler 
($6)  to  such  teachers  in  rural  districts  who  were  not  very  well 
salaried. 

549 


The  Society  for  General  Knowledge  was  instituted  in  1790 
The  first  volume  of  its  publications  was  issued  in  1794.  Besides 
the  warmth  and  zeal  it  expressed  for  the  advancement  of  universal 
public  instruction,  it  is  remarkable  in  that  it  contains  an  outline 
of  rules  for  parochial  schools.  With  respect  to  the  subjects  to 
be  studied,  it  proposes  that  the  children  should  be  taught  to  read 
both  Latin  and  Swedish  type  and  in  writing,  practice  both  of 
these  styles, in  numbers  they  should, besides  the  four  simple  opera- 
tions of  arithmetic,  learn  to  settle  household  accounts.  Equally 
important,  it  states  further,  it  is  to  instruct  in  the  history  of  the 
country,  and  in  geography,  as  well  as  in  husbandry.  Further- 
more, it  proposes  that  at  least  half  a  Swedish  acre  should  be  set 
apart  at  the  residence  of  the  teacher  for  plantation  (i  Swedish 
tunnland  or  acre=i  acre  i  rod). 

The  above  named  Society  Pro  Fide  et  Christianismo  also 
issued  a  proposal  for  the  organization  of  the  praochial  schools, 
embracing  all  the  chief  concerns  pertaining  to  public  instruction. 
1st.  Regarding  the  concerns  of  the  schools  it  is  stated  in  the  first 
paragraph,  "In  every  congregation,  at  least  in  every  pastorate, 
the  pastor  and  parishioners  concerned  should  establish  ambulatory 
schools,  which  could  be  moved  from  homestead  to  homestead,  in 
rotation,  according  to  local  conditions,  in  every  parish."  They 
did  not  venture  then  to  demand  a  stationary  school  in  every  con- 
gregation. 2nd.  Regarding  the  subjects  for  instruction  the  prop- 
osition states:  "Clear  reading  is  absolutely  necessary  to  the 
reception  of  all  further  knowledge;  a  knowledge  of  Christianity, 
as  the  most  important  of  all,  should  be  so  studied  that  it  becomes 
not  only  an  act  of  memory,  but  also  so  that  it  appeals  to  both 
reason  and  heart.  Writing  and  arithmetic  should  be  practiced  as 
indispensable  to  every  n:an. 

It  was  considered  equally  important  to  get  a  conception  of 
our  country's  history,  geography  and  products  of  the  soil.  In- 
struction in  hygiene  w^as  also  considered  important,  as  also  in- 
struction and  practice  in  church  song.  Once  a  year  the  pastor 
should  conduct  an  examination  in  the  presence  of  the  principal 
and  the  parents,  and  then  distribute  prizes  of  books  or  copies  to 
meritorious  children."  3rd.  Concerning  the  choosing  of  a 
school-master,  the  pastor  should  make  a  proposition,  which  he 
should  present  to  the  elders  of  the  congregation,  who  together 
with  him  choose  the  one  they  consider  best  qualified.  Further 
the  proposition  contains  decisions  concerning  the  salary  of  the 

550 


teacher,  and  the  manner  of  its  payment.  Moreover,  the  teacher 
should  have  a  residence,  preferably  in  the  center  of  the  parish, 
and  a  Swedish  acre  of  land  for  the  planting  and  cultivation  of 
vegetables.  Thus  already  fifty  years  in  advance,  the  basis  for 
the  school-ordinance  of  1842  was  laid.  About  the  same  time 
the  proposition  to  establish  a  teachers'  seminary  at  Lund  was 
repeated.  This  proposition  was  presented  by  Dean  Schlyter  to 
the  chapter  of  Lund.  To  such  a  comprehensive  insight  into  the 
importance  of  public  instruction  our  fathers  had  already  attained 
during  the  past  century.  When  w-e  compare  the  quoted  proposi- 
tions with  the  school  ordinance  of  1842,  we  find  that  in  those 
propositions  all  the  principal  features  have  been  recognized  and 
very  freely  executed  centuries  before  it  became  a  law. 

Loyal  to  truth,  we  should  not  pass  by  some  of  the  causes 
which  during  that  time  formed  obstacles  in  the  way  for  a  uni- 
versal public  instruction,  resting  on  a  Christian  basis.  That  there 
was  war  and  discontent  has  before  been  stated.  The  spirit  of  the 
time  which  was  formed  during  the  so-called  era  of  liberty,  and 
not  least  during  the  reign  of  Gustavus  IIL,  was  in  no  wise  good. 
It  was  neology  which  swayed  the  minds  of  the  majority,  not 
only  among  the  secular  classes,  but  among  the  greater  part  of  the 
bishops  and  superior  clergy.  Many  preachers  who  stood  closer 
to  the  people,  especially  the  younger  element,  did  not  wish  to  fall 
into  the  danger  of  being  considered  prejudiced,  for  such  was  any 
one  regarded  who  did  not  reject  the  time-sanctioned  doctrines 
and  accept  the  new  tenets.  Of  course,  the  sermons  were  seldom 
positively  heterodox,  but  the  profound  Christian  truths  were 
passed  by — and  so  they  sank  to  become  mere  edifying  medita- 
tions on  nature,  or  soulless  discourses  upon  the  ''Supreme  Being" 
and  moral  truths.  Several  collections  of  sermons,  pastoral  cir- 
culars, chapter-edicts  and  Royal  ordinances  from  that  period 
evince  this. 

Nevertheless  there  were  not  wanting  men  also  who  carried 
the  standard  of  the  cross  on  high,  and  testified  of  the  righteous- 
ness of  faith.  But, as  long  as  the  neologistic  tendency  prevailed  the 
individual  teachers  could  break  its  power  only  in  very  few  places. 
It  is  evident  that  moral  decay  must  follow  in  the  footsteps  of  the 
free-thinker.  It  was  also  great  in  the  circles  where  the  modern 
view  prevailed,  and  superstition  thrived  more  than  ever  before, 
protected  by  the  king  and  court.  But  as  has  already  been  stated, 
.there  were  not  a  few  among  the  preachers  and  laymen  who  real- 

551 


ized  the  danger,  and  united,  were  zealous  for  a  true  public  enlight- 
enment, and  the  establishment  of  schools  upon  a  Christian  founda- 
tion, and  who  labored  to  check  the  contagious  French  atheism, 
and  tried  to  promote  true  faith  and  piety.  As  we  know,  the  society 
Pro  Fide  et  Christianismo,  founded  at  this  time,  continued  to 
scatter  good  and  edifying  literature  among  the  Swedish  people. 
We  teachers  have  in  this  society  one  of  our  best  allies  from  the 
very  commencement. 

With  the  19th  century  the  Swedish  popular  instruction  re- 
ceived new  and  powerful  impeti.  To  have  efficient  teachers  had 
always  been  considered  of  the  greatest  moment.  In  1820  one 
Count  De  la  Cardie  went  to  England  to  gather  information  re- 
garding the  system  of  mutual  instruction.  On  his  return  he 
established  in  Stockholm,  1822,  the  Society  for  Promoting  Mutual 
Instruction.  The  friends  of  public  instruction  in  all  the  provinces 
joined  as  members,  and  paid  yearly  fees.  Thus  the  separate  forces 
were  brought  closer  into  union.  Apparatus  for  instruction  were 
procured  and  spread  over  the  country.  A  pedagogic  seminary 
was  established  in  Stockholm,  1830.  for  the  training  of  public 
school-teachers.  It  was  not  alone  the  promoting  of  a  method 
that  the  society  labored  for,  but  to  create  a  general  zeal  for 
the  advancement  of  public  instruction.  The  principal  of  the 
above  named  school  undertook  a  journey  in  1839  to  foreign 
countries  in  order  to  study  plans  and  methods  in  some  good  edu- 
cational institutions. 

Now  the  combined  efforts  began  to  bear  fruit,  so  that  King 
Charles  XI\'.  (P>crnadotte),  at  the  diet  of  1840  was  warranted  in 
presenting  to  the  four  congressional  estates  a  proposition  regard- 
ing certain  general  outlines  of  necessary  ordinances  in  behalf 
of  the  advancement  of  popular  education. 

The  result  of  the  lengthy  debates  of  the  estates  was.  after 
many  "pros  and  cons,"  especially  between  the  estates  and  the 
select  commission,  who  prepared  the  matter,  the  presenting  of 
this  proposition:  "that  his  Royal  Majesty  should  be  pleased  to 
allow  in  conformance  therewith  the  issuance  of  a  general  law 
concerning  public  instruction  in  all  the  parishes  of  the  realm." 

Thus,  on  the  i8th  of  June,  1842,  the  general  school-ordinance 
of  Sweden  was  published,  and  a  new  era  in  the  history  of  public 
instruction  was  begun. 

It  had  required  two  centuries  and  a  half  of  agitation  before 
the  common  end  was  attained,  "that  in  every  parish  should  be 

552 


1 


established  at  least  one  stationary  public  school,  although  two  or 
three  parishes  could  for  the  present  employ  one  teacher." 

Hardly  any  law  had  ever  been  better  prepared  for  than  this 
one.  There  existed  already  then  about  i,ooo  schools  in  different 
parts  of  the  country,  although  many  large  districts  had  none. 
Then,  for  instance,  in  the  great  district  of  Kind,  which  com- 
prised 35  parishes,  not  one  real  public  school  existed.  But  there 
were  already  in  the  country  two  institutions  for  the  training  of 
tutors,  viz.:  the  college  at  Stockholm,  and  the  seminary  at  Lund. 
These  could,  however,  not  provide  all  parishes  with  graduated 
teachers.  Therefore  seminaries  were  established  in  our  twelve 
diocesan  cities,  which  by  degrees  graduated  teachers.  But  in 
a  great  many  of  the  parishes  the  securing  of  school-teachers  was 
by  no  means  hastened. 

The  school  law  had  prescribed  that  it  should  go  into  effect  at 
the  latest  five  years  from  the  issuance  of  the  ordinance,  thus  in 
1847,  b^^t  in  some  school-districts  it  was  delayed  for  more  than 
ten  years  before  the  first  examined  teacher  was  chosen.  In  these 
parishes  the  old  custom  meanwhile  was  followed;  the  children 
learned  to  read  either  at  the  spinning  wheel  of  their  mother,  or 
from  some  old,  and  very  often  austere  dame.  But  there  were 
also  many  parents  who  were  so  indifferent  and  neglectful  that 
their  children  at  the  age  of  from  12  to  14  years  hardly  knew  the 
letters  of  the  alphabet.  Usually  these  children,  so  long  neglected, 
were  compelled  (in  order  to  undergo  a  preparation  for  confirma- 
tion, which  often  lasted  for  many  years,  before  matriculation  for 
the  purpose  at  the  church),  first  occasionally  to  undergo  a  course 
of  common  school-instruction,  lasting  several  weeks,  or  even 
months.  But  often  these  were  unsuccessful  in  their  preparation 
for  confirmation,  and  as  a  result  many  youths  had  become  from 
17  to  20  years  old  before  they  began  "to  read  for  the  parson," 
as  the  saying  was  in  common  parlance.  When  we  consider  such 
painful  facts,  it  becomes  evident  that  "the  tardy  nation  full  of 
fervor"  well  needed  a  general  school-law  which  says:  You  must. 
It  must  not  be  that  while  the  children  of  certain  people  and 
regions,  are  reared  to  become  intelligent  and  able  men  in  church 
and  state,  others  are  left  to  rudeness  and  ignorance.  And  by  this 
law,  also,  the  state  evidenced  its  desire  to  take  care  that  the  public 
school  receives  its  necessary  support." 

We  parted  with  deep  regret  from  our  friends  in  Emstahult. 
Along  a  road  with  innumerable,  intercepting  five-barred  gates 

55^ 


we  drove  towards  the  pretty  Svenljunga.  My  relative,  who  had 
been  in  America,  provided  us  with  an  excellent  conveyance.  We 
talked  about  Sweden  and  America  during  our  drive,  and  con- 
tinued our  comparisons.  One  thing  is  certain,  that  when  we 
in  America  become  as  saving  and  careful  of  everything  as  they, 
as  a  rule,  generally  are  in  Europe,  then  our  country  will  grow 
opulent  without  comparison. 

In  connection  with  this  I  may  be  permitted  to  communicate 
the  following  information  about  the  suffrage  in  Sweden,  a  thing 
which  is  often  discussed  in  America: 

The  right  to  vote,  or  to  participate  in  the  sessions,  and  de- 
cisions of  the  parochial  board,  is  accorded  to  every  member  of 
the  community,  man  or  woman,  who  is  a  Swedish  subject,  of 
good  repute,  and  taxable  to  the  community,  and  having  paid  the 
assessments  due.  In  cases  which  concerns  assessed  land  only  the 
possessor  thereof  has  a  right  to  vote. 

At  the  election  of  jurors  lateral  and  trustees  at  land  survev- 
ing  transactions,  the  votes  are  cast  "per  capita."  In  other  cases 
the  votes  go  by  scale  of  taxation. 

The  right  to  vote  at  church  council  (equal  to  the  law-decrees 
and  authoritative  edicts  of  the  church-congregation)  belongs  in 
rural  districts  to  each  one  who  possesses  the  right  to  vote  at  the 
parochial  board,  and  in  towns  to  anyone  who  has  the  right  to 
vote  at  the  common  council.  From  this,  however,  are  excluded 
those  of  foreign  religious  persuasions,  and  those  who  have  noti- 
fied that  they  intend  to  secede  from  the  state  church.  The  basis 
for  voting  is  the  same  as  in  common-council. 

The  right  to  vote  at  the  election  of  pastors  every  man  or 
woman  possesses  who  has  the  right  to  vote  at  church-councils. 
With  regard  to  the  computation  of  votes  it  is,  however,  decreed, 
that  in  cases  of  agricultural  real  estate,  no  one  is  allowed  to  cast 
in  his  own  behalf  more  than  one-fifth  of  the  aggregated  votes 
of  the  congregation,  and  with  respect  to  other  taxable  objects 
not  for  more  than  one-fifth  of  the  number  of  votes  which,  accord- 
ing to  usual  computation,  ought  to  belong  to  him.  and  not  for 
more  than  one-fifth  of  the  entire  number  of  votes  of  the  congrega- 
tion. The  right  to  vote  at  common-council  (similar  to  the  board 
of  city  common-council)  is  computed  according  to  the  scale  of 
taxation,  with  the  restriction,  that  no  one  is  allowed  to  vote  for 
more  than  one-fifth  of  the  entire  number  of  votes  of  the  whole 
town,  and  in  each  case  no  one  possesses  on  his  own  account  more 

554 


I 


1 


than  lOO  votes.  The  right  of  political  votes,  that  is,  the  right  to 
participate  in  the  election  of  members  of  the  second  congres- 
sional chamber  or  diet,  belongs  to  any  man,  in  the  community 
in  which  he  resides,  who  has  the  right  to  vote  in  the  common- 
council,  or  either  owns,  or  with  chartered  rights  of  habitation, 
dwells  on  real  estate  in  the  country  or  in  town,  taxed  to  at  least 
i,ooo  kronor,  or  who  farms  on  rental  for  at  least  five  years  agri- 
cultural estate,  taxed  at  least  to  5,000  kronor,  or  pays  to  the  state 
the  income  tax  on  at  least  800  kronor  a  year.  This  right  of 
political  vote,  which  is  confined  only  to  men.  is  consequently  ex- 
ercised by  a  minority  of  the  population  of  the  countrv.  Thus  in 
1893  it  was  restricted  to  6.2  per  cent  of  the  population,  and  23  per 
cent  of  the  men  who  were  of  age.  At  the  election  of  members 
of  congress  every  voter  only  possesses  one  vote." 

The  ecclesiastical  department  verifies  the  above  in  the  fol- 
lowing official  communication: 

Stockholm,  Oct.  28,  1897. 
To  Dr.  Carl  Swensson: 

In  reply  to  your  letter  of  inquiry  of  the  4th  instant,  I  have 
the  honor  to  inform  you  that  in  Sweden  women  have  not  the 
right  to  vote  at  the  election  of  members  for  congress,  but  on 
the  contrary,  if  she  is  single,  she  has  the  right  to  vote,  both  at  the 
election  of  pastors  and  at  parochial  and  church-councils,  that  is,  at 
the  common  concerns  of  the  community.  The  basis  for  the  ex- 
ercise of  the  right  to  vote  is  equal  for  man  or  woman,  that  is, 
exercised  in  similar  manner,  and  premises  similar  conditions. 

With  profound  respect, 
F.  Holmquist, 
Ecclesiastical  Under-Secretary. 

The  women  of  Sweden  consequently  possess  the  right  to  vote 
on  the  same  basis  of  property  as  the  men  at  common-councils 
and  in  church-matters.  The  right  of  political  votes  they,  how- 
ever, lack.  If  the  Augustana  Synod  permitted  women  to  cast 
their  votes  in  the  congregation,  women  in  Kansas  would  then 
possess  about  the  same  privilege  as  in  Sweden,  with  the  addition, 
that  no  basis  of  property  is  prescribed  with  us. 


559 


CHAPTER  XL. 

SVENLJUNGA,    BORAS    AND    HeRRLJUNGA. 

One  who  has  traveled  much  and  extensively  grows  somewhat 
inured  at  last,  and  becomes  inclined  to  believe  in  his  own  in- 
fallibility as  a  tourist. 

I  had  scanned  the  time-table  closely,  and  knew  for  certain  that 
the  train  for  Boras  left  Svenljunga  11:50  a.  m.  Well,  we  are  at 
the  depot  1 1  40 — just  ten  minutes  too  late,  because  your  humble 
servant  had  read  a  3  as  a  5. 

It  was  very  provoking,  but  I  had  none  but  myself  to  blame, 
and  who  does  not  know  that  it  is  easier  to  blame  others  than 
one  self,  always  so  dear.     The  next  train  left  next  day. 

But  an  American,  and  a  Kansas  man  at  that,  does  not  lose  his 
courage  for  a  trifle.  After  a  while  we  had,  at  the  request  of  my 
host,  drank  what  in  this  country  is  called  eleven  o'clock  coffee, 
and  a  little  later  we  sped  away  with  horses  towards  the  city  of 
Boras,  a  distance  of  some  25  English  miles. 

The  region  we  traveled  through  was  a  beautiful  one,  especially 
as  we  neared  the  object  of  the  trip.  We  passed  in  rapid  succes- 
sion windmills,  hamlets,  villages,  churches  and  cottages,  crossing 
the  railroad  several  times,  until  we  finally  saw  ourselves  en- 
wrapped in  a  thunderstorm.  The  experience  was  interesting 
enough,  and  occupied  our  thoughts  a  good  deal  after  it  was  over. 
People  think  sometimes  that  there  are  no  thunderstorms  in 
Sweden  worth  speaking  of.  That  is  a  mistake.  Both  the  light- 
nings and  the  claps  were  genuine  and  fully  up  to  the  American 
mark,  while  the  rain  reminded  us  vividly  of  Nebraska.  When 
it  poured  down  the  hardest  and  the  thunder  came  with  the  great- 
est force,  my  little  criver,  calmly  remarked  that  it  was  not  advis- 
able to  ride  very  fast  in  such  weather.  But  he  whipped  up  the 
horses  at  the  same  time,  making  them  speed  away  like  a  train 

560 


over  the  road,  showing  by  this  piece  of  grim  humor  that  he  was 
a  true  child  of  his  province,  Wcstgothia. 

It  had  been  fair  day  in  Bor^,  which  we  soon  learned  by  meet- 
ing large  crowds  of  returning  visitors,  some  riding,  others  walk- 
ing. It  was  a  particularly  pretty  sight.  Never  anywhere  in 
Sweden  have  I  seen  such  a  stately,  well-dressed  and  handsome- 
looking  rural  people  as  on  this  Boris  road.  In  spite  of  the  fact 
that  they  all  came  from  a  city  fair,  I  could  not  notice  more  than 
one  among  the  whole  multitude  who  had  partaken  too  much  of 
the  social  glass.  He  wanted  to  make  a  race  in  the  rain  with  the 
other  vehicles,  but  his  wife  and  boy  frustrated  his  foolish  attempt. 

Oh,  that  people  cannot  learn  to  see  the  curse  of  intoxicating 
drinks  to  their  souls  and  bodies! 

My  young  Swedish-Americans  would  laugh  heartily  if  they 
could  see  the  many  ancient  and  comical-looking  vehicles  in  use 
on  this  road.  A  road  wagon  in  Sweden,  though  not  "a  beauty 
and  a  joy  forever,"  seems  nevertheless  to  last  for  generations,  for 
some  now  in  sight  appeared  as  old  as  any  great  grandfather.  The 
small  and  often  enough  clumsy  wheels  and  the  narrow  gauge 
made  me  wonder  all  the  time  why  the  carts  and  wagons  did  not 
tip  over  in  the  many  curves  along  the  way.  But  the  roads  are, 
generally  speaking,  in  such  a  good  condition,  hard  and  w'ide  and 
even,  that  this  fear  of  an  American  is  unnecessary. 

Boras  has  a  remarkably  fine  location.  I  came  there  with  the 
preconceived  idea  that  both  the  city  and  its  surroundings  were  of 
a  more  than  commonly  prosaic  appearance.  But  that  I  found  to 
be  a  grievous  error.  The  whole  vicinity  is  beautiful  and  attrac- 
tive, and  the  city  is  well  built,  wide  awake  and  progressive. 

Having,  at  the  hotel,  received  refreshment  for  my  physical  part, 
which  was  welcome,  indeed,  after  a  ride  of  this  kind  twenty-five 
miles  long,  we  went  out  to  take  a  good  look  at  this  Westgothian 
city,  often  mentioned  in  the  history  of  the  country. 

The  Westgothians  are  born  business  men.  They  are  clever, 
clear-headed  and  calculating.  They  very  seldom  make  a  mistake 
as  to  either  the  end  they  seek  or  the  means  they  employ.  Boris 
grows  and  develops  with  wonderful  speed  and  becomes  rich  in 
the  same  proportion.  The  buildings  are  large  and  stately  look- 
ing, the  parks  and  promenades  fine  and  everything  presenting  an 
up-to-date  appearance  that  makes  a  very  favorable  impression  on 
the  turist's  mind. 

561 


We  did  not  inspect  the  city  only,  we  read  its  papers  also. 
There  were  two  things  that  enlisted  my  special  attention  while 
scanning  the  Boras  journals.  In  one  notice  I  learned  that  the 
king  had  granted  an  audience  to  Mr.  John  Ortengren,  leader 
of  the  Swedish-x\merican  singers,  previous  to  his  return  to 
the  United  States.  King  Oscar  likes  the  singers  from  the  far 
west,  and  their  skillful  leader.  The  other  article  treated  of  the 
views  of  the  Author  Ewald  regarding  what  in  Sweden  passes 
under  the  name  of  laseri,  whereby  must  be  understood  the  ex- 
treme pretistic  tendency  of  certain  religionists,  at  present  extant, 
more  especially  in  the  northern  provinces  of  the  country.  And 
Ewald's  views  were  very  radical.  Everything  evil  up  there  in 
Norrland  he  charges  to  this  earnest  embrace  of  the  Christian 
religion.  It  is  true  enough  that  things  assume  a  rather  queer 
aspect  among  the  independents  and  the  sectarians  once  in  a  while, 
but,  as  Ewald  does,  attribute  all  this  to  laseriet  is  not  only  wrong 
but  also  wicked. 

In  the  evening  we  continued  our  way  to  Herrljunga.  There 
was  a  regular  jam  of  people  on  the  train.  A  number  of  laborers 
were  going  home  over  Sunday,  and  it  was  a  somewhat  strange 
preparation  for  the  Sabbath  they  were  occupied  with.  To  work 
hard  all  week,  and  then  spend  the  earnings  in  whisky  on  Saturday 
night  and  Sunday,  that  is  indeed  something  pitiable  and  con- 
temptible. What  is  being  done  in  Sweden  to  keep  the  people 
sober,  and  in  the  Christian  faith?  Much,  very  much,  that  I  know, 
but  a  great  deal  still  remains  to  be  done. 

My  Swedish-Americans  become  dearer  and  dearer  to  me,  and 
I  feel  also  more  proud  of  them  since  I,  through  these  two 
journeys,  have  had  opportunities  to  see  something  of  the  popular 
life  in  Sweden.  Our  Christian  Swedish-American  colleges,  our 
church-life,  with  people  and  pastor  so  closely  connected,  our  good 
newspaper  press,  the  improved  economical  conditions,  travels 
and  association  with  people  of  other  nationalities — all  has  had  a 
wonderful  effect  on  our  people  as  a  whole  in  this  free  land  in  the 
west.  And  still  it  is  true  that  here  also  much  remains  to  be  done 
for  and  among  us. 

We  stayed  over  night  in  the  little  Herrljunga. 

One  of  the  people's  excursions  to  the  exhibition  in  Stock- 
holm, so  popular  all  over  the  country,  sped  through  the  city  dur- 
ing the  night.  All  the  tickets  had  been  sold  long  in  advance  of 
the  departure. 

562 


CHAPTER  XLI. 

A  Sunday  in  HjaRP^s. 

The  following  day,  which  was  Sunday,  we  arose  early,  took  a 
light  breakfast,  and  then  went  down  to  the  train  leaving  6:50 
o'clock. 

Among  our  fellow  passengers  we  had  the  stately-looking  Gen- 
eral Erickson,  a  nephew  of  the  greatest  Swedish-American,  the 
inventor  of  the  Monitor,  Capt.  John  Ericson.  Other  officers 
were  in  the  company,  all  fine-looking  fellows. 

On  this  train  we  came  in  company  with  an  entertaining  West- 
gothian,  who  had  lived  in  Ashland  and  Washburn,  and  knew  Pas- 
tor j.  D.  Nilsenius  very  well.  He  had  returned  to  Sweden  be- 
cause his  wife  would  under  no  circumstances  join  him  in  America. 
It  is  a  strange,  or  perhaps  I  should  say,  quite  a  natural  thing  that 
all  these  Swedish-Americans  in  Sweden  long  to  get  back  to  Amer- 
ica, and  would  all  C(bme  if  they  only  could  arrange  their  aflfairs  to 
suit,  which,  of  course,  is  difficult  for  some  of  them.  It  is  a  pleas- 
ure to  revisit  Sweden  at  any  time  and  ever  so  often,  but  one 
who  is  used  to  American  life,  is  reluctant  to  settle  down  for 
good  in  Sweden  when  he  eventually  returns  thither. 

The  landscape  around  Hakanstorp  and  HjarpSs  consists  of  a 
pretty  and  fertile  plain  or  prairie,  as  we  call  it  in  America.  Here 
you  will  find  well-to-do  farmers,  and  the  whole  neighborhood 
looks  very  prosperous  indeed.  It  is  very  easy  for  an  American 
to  feel  at  home  here,  because  everything  he  sees  reminds  him  of 
his  own  country. 

At  the  HjarpHs  station  we  were  met  by  our  friend  Sandzen, 
and  before  we  reached  the  parsonage  the  dean  himself  came  and 
greeted  us  in  the  old-fashioned,  cordial  manner. 

His  wife  is  cordiality  itself  incarnate — so  kind,  so  friendly,  so 
lovinglv  hospitable.     They  showed  us  immcdiatclv  a  room  placed 

563 


at  our  disposal;  then  followed  breakfast,  and  after  that  we  all  went 
to  church,  where  much  people  had  gathered. 

Then  dean  himself  preached.  His  discourse  was  a  warm, 
evangelical  explanation  of  the  gospel-text  for  the  day,  treating  of 
a  Christian's  relation  to  earth-life.  "Life  here,"  he  said,  "is  a 
primary  school  for  the  heavenly  life  to  come."  His  subject  was: 
The  faith  the  Lord  Jesus  desires  to  find  for  His  servants,  i.  In 
whom  alone  is  this  faith  to  be  found.  2.  This  faith  shows  itself 
in  everything  in  the  hands  of  a  Christian.  3.  How  the  friends 
of  Jesus  better  and  better  learn  to  see  and  appreciate  this,  thus 
becoming  more  and  more  diligent  in  their  efforts  to  properly  ad- 
minister their  earthly  estate,  great  or  small.  4.  The  inner  char- 
acter of  this  faith,  or  faithfulness,  will  always  consist  in  our  unre- 
served willingness  to  serve  Jesus. 

I  enjoyed  a  peaceful  and  precious  hour  in  the  temple.  No 
wonder  that  there  are  no  separatists  or  dissenters  in  a  parish 
where  God's  word  is  preached  in  such  a  way  as  here. 

Now  we  are  home  in  the  parsonage  again,  enjoying  our  dinner 
in  the  most  happy  and  thankful  mood.  Five  o'clock  in  the  after- 
noon your  humble  servant  preached  at  vesper  for  a  numerous 
crowd  of  hearers. 

Later  we  took  a  good  look  at  the  surrounding  country  from 
an  elevation  on  the  burying  ground.  It  reminded  me  at  once  of 
the  Smoky  Hill  \'alley  in  Kansas,  so  much  so  that  I  actually 
felt  as  if  that  vast  valley  or  plain  lay  extended  before  my  vision. 
From  my  point  of  view  I  was  able  to  see  the  grand  cathedral  in 
the  city  of  Skara,  also  the  churches  of  the  city  of  Lidkoping  and 
those  in  Saleby,  Trassberg,  Rada,  Ljung,  Skarstad.  Varnum, 
Vedum,  Bitterna,  Larf,  Travad,  West  Klefva,  Edsvara.  Kvannum, 
Sodra,  Vanga,  Mngsjo.  Lefvene  (where  King  Hawkin  the  Red 
was  born  and  died  1097,  being  also  buried  here)  Ytterum  and 
Fyrunga  with  many  more,  making  40  altogether. 

We  could  also  see  Kinnekulle.  Billingen  and  Mosseberg. 
which  places  I  visited  and  described  seven  years  ago,  but  only 
got  glimpses  of  now  from  the  mound  in  the  churchyard  of 
Hjarpas. 

This  church  was  built  1803,  but  the  original  one  was  erected 
as  far  back  as  the  fifteenth  century  or,  as  some  will  have  it,  the 
eleventh. 

Hjarpas  with  a  population  of  1,239,  Ufvered  with  627  and 
Haggesled   with   407   souls,  all   constitute   one.      The  dean  has 

564 


lived  here  for  20  years,  during  which  time  many  improvements 
and  additions  have  been  made  on  the  premises,  so  that  the  estate 
now  is  very  valuable  and  brings  a  handsome  annual  income.  A 
high  degree  of  education  seems  to  exist  among  the  people,  and 
none  have  left  the  congregation. 

The  pleasant  social  chat  in  the  afternoon  and  the  evening  of 
this  Sunday  I  never  shall  forget.  We  made  then  the  acquaint- 
ance of  the  brothers  Frans  and  Carl  Xilsson,  Cand.  of  the 
philosophical  degree.  School  Teacher  Engstrom  and  others.  We 
had  also  the  pleasure  to  become  acquainted  with  the  assistant 
pastor  in  the  place,  and  later  with  the  genial  Rector  L.  Linder, 
from  Borslig,  whose  wife  is  the  daughter  of  Rector  Sandzen,  now 
dead.  Rector  L.  had  attended  installation  festivities  in  Tadeved, 
where  Rector  Dahlstrand  had  been  inducted  into  office  by  the 
bishop  and  fifteen  assistants. 

Such  a  day  is  memorable  for  the  congregation  concerned.  It 
transpires  somewhat  in  this  way: 

1.  Installation  speech  by  the  bishop. 

2.  The  installation  act  itself. 

3.  High  mass  by  the  new  rector. 

4.  Visitation  speech  by  the  bishop. 

5.  Examinations  of  the  communion  children  by  the  priests 
of  the  congregation,  while  their  assistants  examine  the  congrega- 
tion itself  as  to  their  Christian  knowledge. 

6.  The  bishop  speaks  from  the  altar,  exhorting  the  people 
with  respect  to  the  moral  and  religious  condition  in  the  congrega- 
tion. 

7.  Conclusion  of  the  service. 

8.  A  visitation  council. 

All  this  claims  the  whole  day,  but  it  does  not  occur  very  often, 
whence  it  is  borne  with  patience. 

When  all  was  finally  over,  dinner  was  served  in  the  parson's 
home  for  the  bishop,  the  assistants,  the  members  of  the  church 
council,  those  of  the  school  committee  and  also  invited  guests. 

At  the  council  the  bishop  had  asked  the  owner  of  Storeberg 
if  he  voluntarily  would  relinquish  his  right  of  patronage  in  regard 
to  certain  church  matters,  but  his  answer  had  been  decidedly 
negative. 

But  we  are  still  in  Hjiirpis.  The  dean  has  a  beloved  son  in 
Bethany  College,  Lindsborg,  and  another  who  has  settled  down 
as  a  physician  in  the  same  place.     The  former  was  at  present 

565 


home  on  a  visit  to  his  beloved  parents.  Another  son,  who  is  a 
young  and  promising  theologian  from  Upsala,  and  a  singer  and 
musician  besides,  was  also  present  at  the  happy  family  reunion. 

The  dean  understands  everything.  He  is  a  good  preacher,  a 
poet  of  no  mean  order,  singer  and  musician,  an  excellent  shepherd 
for  his  flock  and  a  first  rate  agriculturist. 

The  conversation  was  animated  and  singing  and  playing  went 
on  in  high  spirit.  The  dean  had  versified  and  made  music  to 
"den  apostoliska  tron"  and  other  pieces.  It  goes  without  saying 
that  time  fled  away  fast  with  such  a  highly  interesting  and  varied 
program.  Entirely  too  early — and  still  it  was  very  late —  we  had 
to  say  good-night  to  each  other. 

Just  think  how  lovely  and  attractive,  how  simple,  natural  and 
true  is  the  social  life  among  the  cultured  Swedes.  Happy  people, 
they ! 

And  nevertheless  we  prosaic  Americans  very  often  make  our 
way  through  life  easier  than  these  refined  and  happy  Swedes  at 
home.  Such  is  life,  such  the  play  of  fate.  But  if  they  come  to 
America  and  allow  themselves  to  become  fully  naturalized  they 
will  soon  make  their  mark. 


--^ 


66 


NORRKOPIXG  :      1.      THK    HAU150K   WITH   THE   HOLM. 
2.      COTTOX  TEXTUKE   KACTUUY.      3.      THE   KACTOUY   ON  THE   ISLK. 


JOHN  ERICSON. 


CHAPTER  XLH. 

John  Ericsson's  Monument  in  Filipstad,  Vermland. 

I  was  very  anxious  to  go  to  Vermland.  My  reasons  were 
many.  Nature  up  there  is  so  Swedish,  so  northern,  the  people 
so  happy  and  upright,  and  the  historical  memories  so  many  and 
immortal. 

This  people  is  a  peculiarly  happy  one,  but  also  proud.  And 
I  do  not  begrudge  them  their  happiness,  while  their  pride  is  most 
pardonable.  I  wish  I  could  tell  the  people  in  America  how  the 
little  inland  lakes  in  this  province  smile  to  the  tourist  as  he 
travels  past  them;  how  the  forests  themselves  cheer  him  with 
their  mixture  of  leaf-trees  and  pines;  and  how  all  the  Xorthern 
aspects  present  themselves  all  over,  though  not  without  a  soft 
touch  of  the  Southern  nature  here  and  there,  very  welcome  to  a 
Kansas  man. 

But  who  can  fully  explain  to  me  why  the  inhabitants  of  this 
province  all  are  so  happy?  This  disposition  is  enviable  and  con- 
stitutes by  itself  a  rich  national  resource.  Minds  like  their's  are 
easy  to  touch  by  great  thoughts.  They  are  ideal  by  nature. 
Others  may  drudge  along  as  slaves  to  filthy  lucre,  but  the  son 
of  this  province  loves  to  take  a  sublimer  view  of  things.  lie 
believes  in  that  which  lasts  forever.  To  him  genius  is  greater 
than  gold,  and  his  soul  is  attuned  to  the  life  where  joy  knows  of 
no  cessation. 

As  reliable  in  his  views  as  the  more  conservative  man  of 
Westgothia,  he  will  never  be.  But  this  is  not  owing  to  a  less 
measure  of  natural  gifts,  but  rather  to  a  larger  measure  thereof. 
The  Westgothian  is  a  Lutheran  and  a  royalist,  and  such  he  ever 
remains.  But  this  man  of  Vermland  is  often  seized  by  new 
thoughts  and  views,  because  of  the  warm  blood  coursing  through 

his  veins. 

369 


We  regretted  sincerely  that  our  stay  in  the  lovely  Hjarp^s 
was  cut  so  short,  for  there  it  was  good  to  be,  literally  speaking. 

Early  on  Monday  morning  we  started  for  Vermland.  Pretty 
prairies,  with  golden  crops,  we  saw  all  the  way  to  Sauistad. 

Now  we  came  in  sight  of  Detten,  which  is  a  part  of  Lake 
\'ettern  and  full  of  fish. 

Look  there!  The  harvesters  are  at  work  in  the  field  with 
their  old-fashioned  scythes.  True,  it  looked  poetical,  but  I  admit 
that  the  American  self-binding  reaper  is  immensely  more  prac- 
tical. I  need  not  inform  you  that  the  latter  machine  has  found 
its  way  to  Sweden.  I  often  noticed  advertisements  about  it 
posted  up  at  the  railway  stations. 

Now  we  are  steaming  by  Halleberg  and  Hunneberg,  two 
uncommonly  beautiful  and  romantic  mountains,  or  rather  moun- 
tain regions,  as  there  are  no  less  than  24  small  lakes  on  one 
of  tiiem,  and  one  on  the  other.  Here  we  have  the  famous  hunt- 
ing-grounds of  the  King.  Here  it  was  that  the  German  Em- 
peror hunted  a  few  years  ago,  together  with  the  King,  of  Sweden. 
Among  others  then  present  we  remember  the  friend  of  the 
Swedes,  the  then  American  minister,  W.  W.  Thomas,  who  we 
hope  soon  to  see  returned  to  Stockholm. 

Lilleskog  is  the  name  of  the  station  where  the  royal  hunters 
used  to  leave  the  train  when  the  sport  was  ready  to  begin. 

Gota  Elf  now  comes  in  view,  then  Vargon,  then  a  pretty 
river,  further  a  factory — and  finally  the  City  of  Venersborg,  boast- 
ing 6,000  inhabitants.  But  our  stay  there  was  necessarily  short 
this  time. 

At  Oxnered  we  took  the  train  on  the  Bergslags  line  in  order 
to  reach  Vermland.  This  road  is  owned  by  private  parties.  The 
coaches  are  particularly  commodious,  and  the  company  must 
have  a  fine  profit  from  the  undertaking. 

Speaking  of  the  railroads  of  Sweden,  the  following  statistical 
statements  may  be  of  some  interest.  The  lines  owned  by  the 
state  are  3,269  kilometers  in  length;  the  private  roads,  6,486 — 
total,  9,755  kilometers.  Employes  of  the  state  lines  (gatekeepers 
not  included)  are  5.946  in  number.  First-class  travelers,  10,772; 
second-class,  894,804;  third-class,  4,562,389;  troops,  121,660. 
Total,  5,589,625.  Freight,  net,  4,499,189  tons.  Receipts  for 
tickets  sold,  8,489,176  crowns;  for  freight,  17,582,863  crowns. 
The  income  from  transportation  of  troops,  mails,  prisoners  and 
extra  trains  added  makes  the  gross  receipts  27,247,930  crowns. 

570 


The  expenses  for  running  and  maintaining  all  amount  to  17,759.- 
809.  The  amount  paid  into  the  state  treasury  is  9,000,000 
crowns.     This  for  the  year  1895,  and  in  regard  to  the  state  roads. 

Now  something  about  the  private  lines:  Travelers,  11,533,- 
658.  Transportation  of  freight,  9,602,347  tons.  Receipts,  30,- 
722,y()y  crowns.     Running  expenses,  16,668,024  crowns. 

The  original  expenses  for  building  and  equipping  the  state 
lines  were  232,983,384  crowns.  The  value  of  the  same  lines  at 
the  end  of  aforesaid  year  was  305,061,729  crowns.  The  private 
lines  have  received  support  of  the  state  to  the  amount  of  65,- 
216,295  crowns. 

The  trip  takes  us  first  through  the  province  of  Dalsland.  At 
Sefifle  we  enter  Vermland.  The  grave  mound  of  Olof  Tratalja, 
the  patriarch  of  the  province,  is  said  to  be  here,  at  the  bridge  of 
Sefifle. 

The  country  around  X'ermlandsbro  is  pretty.  Before  we 
reached  Segmon  several  small  lakes  came  in  view,  which  was  also 
the  case  before  our  arrival  to  Grums.  The  oats  were  ripe  but 
uncut  all  around  in  these  parts,  though  it  was  now  as  late  as 
August  1 6th. 

Many  cows  were  seen  in  the  clover  fields  of  Vermland,  and 
just  before  we  came  to  Edsvalla  we  saw  a  bee-farm. 

At  romantic  Kil  the  train  stopped  for  dinner,  and  of  course  we 
got  a  splendid  meal. 

Now  we  sped  on  in  the  direction  of  Filipstad.  We  passed 
Klarelfven  (Clear  river)  just  3:15  p.  m.,  then  a  tunnel — but  we 
had  electric  light  in  the  car — and  now  we  are  in  the  midst  of  a 
rain-storm  which  very  much  reminded  us  of  American  experi- 
ences of  the  same  kind. 

Now  one  after  the  other  of  the  most  beautiful  natural  scenes 
rolled  before  our  eyes  like  in  a  swift  Kaleidoscope — lakes,  forests, 
meadows,  grain-fields,  saw-mills,  farm-houses,  large  estates  with 
splendid  mansions — all  assuring  me  that  Vermland  is  good  for 
the  reputation  it  enjoys. 

At  4  o'clock  we  passed  Geijersdal,  a  name  that  recalls  to 
memory  a  great  .son  of  X'ermland,  one  who  made  himself  im- 
mortal in  more  than  one  way.  To  know  Geijer  is  to  love  and 
revere  him.     He  is  indisputably  one  of  Sweden's  greotcst  sons. 

A  minute  more  and  we  stop  at  Daglosen.  where  we  exchanged 
trains,  and  in  a  little  while  we  are  in  Filipstad. 

What  a  fine  location  that  little  city  has!     I  wandered  around 

571 


and  about  within  its  limits  with  the  greatest  pleasure.  But  we 
were  now  at  the  goal  of  our  journey.     And  what  was  that  goal? 

The  satisfaction  of  seeing  the  justly  celebrated  monument  of 
John  Ericsson. 

It  is  found  on  the  prettiest  spot  in  the  cemetery — a  pleasant 
little  mound,  with  a  clear  blue  lake  on  one  side  and  beyond  it 
the  large  fine  church. 

Now  we  are  there.  On  the  stone  we  read:  "Faderneslandet 
it  John  Ericsson.  (The  native  country  to  John  Ericsson.)  And 
behold  the  splendid-looking  shield  with  the  propeller  in  the  cen- 
ter and  wreaths  all  around! 

We  walked  onto  the  monument.  Now  we  stand  here  in  the 
new  sanctuary  of  the  dearest  memories.  The  coffin,  made  of 
oak,  rests  on  a  fine  pedestal  of  granite.  On  it  we  read  this  in- 
scription: 

"John  Ericsson,  born  at  Lingbanshyttan,  July  31,  1803;  died 
in  New  York,  March  8,  1889." 

The  Swedish  flag  and  the  American  were  kept  inside  the 
monument.  On  the  top  of  the  coffin  is  placed  a  monitor,  and  a 
propeller  at  the  end.  A  bust  in  bronze  of  the  great  man  is  seen 
in  a  niche,  and  the  whole  room  is  filled  with  wreaths  and  other 
tributes  of  love  and  memory. 

But  in  order  to  get  the  story  complete  and  reliable,  I  quote 
the  following: 

"It  is  now  seven  years  since  the  splendid  cruiser  Baltimore, 
of  the  United  States  navy,  bore  John  Ericsson's  remains  across 
the  ocean  to  be  reclaimed  by  his  native  soil  in  the  far-ofT  North. 
It  was  as  if  the  slumbering  minds  of  Patriotism  had  been  aroused 
and  set  in  motion  by  the  dead  one,  who  once  had  said:  'All  my 
poW'Crs  and  all  my  possessions  I  place  to  the  service  of  my  native 
country.'  So  great  and  so  ardent  was  the  enthusiasm  with  which 
the  revered  ashes  was  received  by  his  countrymen.  A  noble 
feeling  of  emulation  sprang  up  between  dififerent  parts  of  the 
country,  who  all  desired  to  receive  and  inter  the  earthly  part  of 
the  great  inventor.  Sweden  has  no  pantheon  for  its  distinguished 
sons.  If  it  had  had  one  John  Ericsson  would  readily  have  found 
his  final  resting-place  there.  The  capital  of  the  country  wished 
to  take  the  remains  and  prepare  a  grave  for  them  in  this,  the 
premises  of  a  navy-yard,  which  already  possesses  many  evi- 
dences of  John  Ericsson's  genius.  Others  thought  it  would  be 
proper  to  deposit  the  ashes  of  him  by  the  side  of  his  great  teacher, 

572 


Baltzar  von  Platen,  at  the  shore  he  made  or  along  the  Gota 
canal.  His  surviving  relatives  in  Sweden  showed  their  delicacy 
in  the  matter  by  not  participating  in  this  rivalry,  and  when  at 
last  the  deputies  from  Filipstad  and  Ferncbo  parishes  came 
to  the  King  with  the  question,  he  commanded  that  the  remains 
should  be  laid  to  rest  in  their  native  place.. 

Thus  the  wish  and  hope  of  John  Ericsson  was  fulfilled,  for 
he  had  already,  in  1876,  in  a  letter  to  a  friend  in  Sweden,  uttered 
these  patriotic  words:  'I  will  be  more  satisfied  to  know  that 
my  ashes  shall  rest  under  a  sand  pile  on  Swedish  soi!  than  un- 
der a  monument  in  America."  " 

September  15,  1890,  was  a  day  of  extreme  enthusiasm  for 
the  City  of  Filipstad  and  its  vicinity.  The  city  had  adorned 
itself  with  flags  and  flowers,  just  as  if  it  was  to  receive  a  King. 
But  the  sombre  spruces  planted  along  the  streets  evinced  that  it 
really  was  no  occasion  for  joy.  Just  think  with  what  delight  this 
native  place  of  the  dead  should  have  received  him,  had  he  arrived 
alive.  Under  the  vault  of  the  temple  the  remains  now  were  given 
the  three  customary  shovels  of  the  native  soil  by  Bishop  C.  AI, 
Rundgren. 

A  subscription  of  money  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  a 
worthy  resting-place  for  this  true  Knight  of  Labor  was  innnedi- 
ately  begun.  The  call  made  was  chiefly  fo^  \"ermland,  but  the 
whole  country  responded,  and  finally  the  Riksdag,  or  Congress, 
appropriated  20,000  crowns  for  the  purpose.  When  the  sum 
had  reached  double  that  the  work  began.  The  architects  Hed- 
lund  and  Rasmussen  in  Gothenburg  made  the  drawing,  and  the 
building  of  the  chapel  was  done  by  a  firm  in  the  City  of  Udde- 
valla.  And  now  it  stands  there  on  its  pretty  mound,  reflected  in 
the  clear  waves  of  Daglosvag,  with  the  winds  playing  their 
Aeolean  harps  around  it.  It  is  made  not  of  marble,  for  Sweden  is 
poor  in  that,  but  of  granite  that  has  defied  ages  upon  ages.  The 
countryman  who  visits  this  sepulchre  feels  proud  of  the  treasure 
concealed  there,  and  grateful  to  the  great  republic  that  sent  back 
the  ashes  of  the  illustrious  Swede. 

The  monumental  chapel  stands  now  as  an  eloquent  evidence 
of  the  love  and  gratitude  our  countrymen  entertain,  as  do  the 
wreaths  sent  along  with  the  funeral  procession.  These  signs  of 
loving  recollections  serve  also  in  some  degree  to  explain  the  life 
of  the  great  inventor,  because  they  have  come  from  almost  all 
places  that  were  fields  of  activity  for  his  genius  wliile  he  lived, 

573 


and  sent  by  individuals  and  corporations  who,  in  one  or  another 
way,  had  been  benefited  by  the  deeds  of  John  Ericsson. 

On  the  Httle  promontory  between  the  lakes  Hyttsjon  and 
Langban,  one  of  the  prettiest  parts  of  Vermland,  John  Ericsson 
was  born  in  a  humble  home  July  31,  1803. 

His  mortal  part  received  greetings  from  the  graves  of  his 
father  and  mother.  His  father  was  Olof  Ericsson  and  he  found 
his  rest  far  away  among  the  rocks  on  the  western  coast  of  the 
country,  while  his  mother,  Brita  Sofia  Yngstrom,  is  buried  at 
IMedelplana  on  the  flowery  height  of  Kinne-Kulle.  By  the  side 
of  the  iron  cross  that  marks  Olof  Ericsson's  grave  on  the  island 
of  Kanso  is  erected  a  granite  shaft  with  this  inscription: 

"To  the  memory  of  Olof  Ericsson  and  his  sons,  Nils  Ericsson 
and  John  Ericsson,  this  stone  was  raised  by  the  Workingmen's 
Society  of  Gothenburg."  The  winds  of  Cattegat  made  music  in 
the  spruces  planted  on  the  grave,  and  of  spruce  twigs  taken  from 
these  trees  the  people  of  the  island  make  memorial  wreaths  for 
March  9.  John  Ericsson's  mother  is  said  to  have  been  an  un- 
commonly educated,  noble  and  strong-minded  woman,  and  it 
was,  no  doubt,  from  her  the  sons  received  the  teachings  that 
developed  into  such  great  practical  results.  Those  who  take 
care  of  her  grave  at  the  shore  of  Vanern  sent  a  wreath  to  the 
cofifin  of  her  son. 

As  a  greeting  from  "the  home  of  the  childhood"  has  come 
from  the  estate  called  Langbanshyttan — where  a  memorial  stone 
was  erected  in  the  year  1867 — a  wreath  made  of  leaves  from  the 
trees  surrounding  John  Ericsson's  early  home. 

The  nearest  relatives,  of  whom  the  state  architect,  C.  T.  Odh- 
ner,  was  present  when  the  coffin  was  lowered  on  the  shore  of 
Daglosa,  have  contributed  a  wreath  of  laurel  with  the  following 
inscription:  "A  tribute  of  reverence  and  gratitude  from  nieces 
and  nephews." 

As  a  greeting  of  welcome  from  the  native  region  was  re- 
ceived a  decoration  of  laurel  representing  the  teller,  the  torch 
and  the  arrow, — the  symbolical  signs  of  the  mining  district.  It 
was  probably  under  the  impression  that  the  cofSn  and  corpse 
were  still  on  board  the  Baltimore  that  caused  the  senders  to 
attach  the  following  inscription,  borrowed  from  Esaias  Teg- 
ner's  Frithiofs  saga: 

"The  flag  is  on  high  and  is  pointing  to  North, 
Where  the  land  is  I  ever  held  dear. 
574 


I  shall  follow  the  course  of  the  heavenly  winds, 
To  the  North,  to  the  North  I  shall  steer." 

Many  other  tributes  of  the  same  kind  were  received. 

One  of  these  came  from  Halnatrop,  where  John  Ericsson  as 
a  mere  boy  had  an  opportunity  to  exhibit  some  drawings  to 
Admiral  Baltzar  von  Platen,  who  then  said:  "Continue  as  you 
have  commenced,  my  boy,  and  you  will  accomplish  something 
great  some  day." 

At  the  age  of  fourteen  John  was  employed  as  engineer  at  one 
of  the  canal  stations  and  could  thus  "as  a  child  conmiand,"  to 
cjuote  the  words  of  a  poet.  He  had  then  to  lead  the  work  of  a 
force  600  strong,  though  he  was  so  small  he  had  to  stand  on  a 
little  chair  when  using  his  instrument. 

His  constant  association  with  military  men  evoked  a  desire 
in  him  to  become  one  of  the  profession,  and  at  the  age  of  seven- 
teen he  was  enrolled  in  one  of  the  regiments  of  Jamtland,  where 
he  commenced  his  career,  1821.  The  title  of  captain  he  always 
bore  he  got  there.  But  he  was  first  raised  to  the  rank  of  lieu- 
tenant, of  course.  He  was  at  this  time  a  favorite  of  all  his  su- 
periors, the  Crown-Prince  included.  Hence  he  was  commissioned 
to  make  the  maps  to  a  work  about  the  war  of  the  period  18 13- 14. 
It  is  also  said  that  King  Charles  XIV.  had  advised  him  to  seek 
a  field  for  his  inventive  genius  in  England. 

He  left  Sweden,  May  i,  1826,  never  to  return  to  it  while  alive. 
Only  his  remains  came  back,  but  with  more  than  ro)al  honors. 

Of  his  work  and  combats  in  England  a  reminder  came  in 
the  shape  of  a  cypress  wreath,  on  the  ribbon  of  which  was  writ- 
ten: "From  the  son  of  the  friend  Adolf  von  Rosen."  This 
Adolf  von  Rosen  was  the  father  of  the  Swedish  railroad  system, 
and  John  Ericsson  was  the  first  locomotive  engineer.  In  the 
month  of  October,  1829,  there  was  a  contest  on  the  Liverpool  & 
Manchester  line  between  George  Stephenson's  Rocket  and  John 
Ericsson's  Novelty.  Novelty  showed  itself  superior,  but  had, 
nevertheless,  to  abandon  the  race  on  account  of  the  boiler,  which 
did  not  hold  out.  Ericsson  later  turned  this  locomotive  into 
a  fire-extinguishing  engine. 

Nov.  I,  1839,  John  Ericsson  left  England  and  went  over  the 
Atlantic  to  visit  its  proud  daughter  in  the  west,  America.  There 
he  pursued  indefatigably  the  road  to  fame  and  immortality,  and 
before  a  quarter  of  a  century  had  elapsed  his  name  was  known 
all  over  civilization. 

575 


Many  memories  from  the  United  States  adorn  the  grave.    . 

But  the  greatest  honor  was  indeed  the  act  of  the  United 
States,  one  of  the  powerful  nations  of  earth,  when  it,  through 
its  government,  sent  the  ashes  of  its  benefactor  back  to  Ultima 
Thule  on  its  handsomest  man-of-war,  with  a  guard  of  honor 
across  the  ocean. 

The  wreaths  and  decorations  sent  along  with  the  Baltimore 
testified  to  his  great  popularity  in  the  land  of  his  adoption. 

The  most  important,  if  not  the  most  conspicuous  of  these, 
was  perhaps  the  laurel  wreath  tendered  by  the  American  Society 
of  Swedish  Engineers,  and  attached  to  the  coffin  August  23, 
1890,  when  the  remains  were  taken  on  board  the  Baltimore, 
while  the  Swedish  flag  for  the  first  time  floated  over  the  govern- 
ment buildings  in  New  York.  Inside  the  bunch  of  ribbons,  at- 
tached to  the  wreath,  lies  a  cloth  of  silk  on  which  are  printed 
these  words  of  farewell  by  the  Swedish  American  Engineers: 

"As  a  last  farewell  from  the  shores  of  Captain  John  Erics- 
son's adopted  country  we  adorn  his  coffin  with  the  laurel  wreath." 

If  the  leaves  thereof  were  inscribed  each  with  a  different  in- 
vention or  improvement  of  greater  or  less  magnitude  with  which 
his  extraordinary  genius  has  enriched  science  and  benefited  man- 
kind, their  number  would  probably  not  suffice,  so  prolific  was 

his  brain. 

May  the  wreath,  emblematic  of  his  immortal  works,  accom- 
pany his  remains  across  the  seas,  a  silent  greeting  to  his  and  our 
native  land,  as  a  humble  token  of  the  profound  and  lasting  esteem 
in  which  his  memory  is  held,  his  name  honored,  by  us  and  our 
numerous  American  brethren. 

The  independent  order  of  Odd  Fellows,  to  which  John  Erics- 
son belonged,  being  a  member  of  Lodge  No.  no  Manhem,  deco- 
rated the  coffin  with  evergreens  and  the  symbols  of  the  order. 

A  laurel  wreath  inscribed,  "A  tribute  of  reverence,"  and  a 
wreath  of  oak  leaf,  "To  the  Swedish  inventor,"  were  received 
without  any  information  from  whom. 

The  Swedish  Ladies'  Society  of  Brooklyn  had  made  of  flow- 
ers an  imitation  of  his  first  monitor,  which  taught  the  world  a 
new  method  of  naval  warfare,  but  above  the  monitor  is  hovering 
a  white  dove,  telling  that  it  was  the  love  of  peace  that  actuated 
the  inventor  even  while  devising  this  famous  tool  of  destruction. 
Or  perhaps  the  Swedish  ladies  desired  to  send  a  greeting  like 
this  with  the  dead  countryman  to  his  and  their  native  land:     "If 

576 


you  wish  that  the  genius  of  peace  shall  extend  its  white  wings 
over  the  North,  then  prepare  yourself  powerfully  to  meet  witches 
coming  in  men-of-war  from  the  East." 

The  Ladies'  Society  of  New  York  tendered  to  the  man  from 
the  land  of  iron  and  with  the  iron  will,  a  laurel  wreath  of  iron. 

A  uniting  power  among  the  Swedes  in  America  is  their  press. 
The  Swedish  Tribune  of  Chicago  deposited  a  large  laurel  wreath, 
with  a  poetic  inscription. 

One  of  the  admirers  of  the  dead  inventor  had  sent  a  star 
spangled  banner  with  the  request  that  the  flag  under  which  the 
Monitor  fought  and  won  the  memorable  battle  March  9,  1862, 
should  be  given  a  place  at  the  bier  of  the  master. 

It  was  after  an  absence  of  64  years  that  John  Ericsson  re- 
turned home. 

He  died  in  New  York,  March  8,  1889,  and  the  funeral  cere- 
monies took  place  in  Trinity  Church  in  the  same  city,  the  nth 
of  the  same  month.  Aug.  22,,  1889,  the  Baltimore  left  New  York 
and  arrived  at  Stockholm  September  12th.  Two  days  later 
America  delivered  the  coffin  "to  the  beloved  soil  of  the  Swedish 
native  land,  and  on  the  fifteenth  the  remains  were  entrusted  to 
the  peace  of  the  grave,  the  final  ceremonies  taking  place  in  the 
church  of  Filipstad. 

As  has  been  said,  the  enthusiasm  with  which  not  Sweden 
alone,  but  also  the  neighboring  nations,  received  the  information 
of  the  noble  act  of  the  United  States  in  relinquishing  the  remains 
of  John  Ericsson  and  carrying  them  back  to  his  native  land,  was 
very  great.  All  over  Sweden,  but  more  especially  in  Vermland, 
memorial  festivities  were  arranged,  and  the  cofifin  honored  by  the 
presence  of  large  multitudes  wherever  it  passed  through  the 
country.  At  the  termination  of  this  funeral  procession  the  cofnn 
was  hid  from  view  by  a  shower  of  flowers. 

A  splendid  laurel  wreath  with  the  colors  of  the  Scandinavian 
union — white,  red,  blue  and  yellow — came  from  Norwegians. 
The  inscription  was:  "The  memory  of  John  Ericsson,  the  faith- 
ful worker,  the  great  thinker,  shall  live  in  gratitude,  admiration 
and  love  among  the  people  of  the  North  from  generation  to 
generation." 

From  the  Danish  Odd  Fellow  Lodges  was  delivered,  through 
a  representative  present,  a  laurel  wreath  "To  Brother  John  Erics- 
son." 

The  capital  of  Sweden  was  represented  by: 

581 


The  Royal  Academy  of  Science,  presenting  a  wreath  of  laurel, 
bearing  the  words:  "To  John  Ericsson,  the  celebrated  member 
of  the  Academy." 

The  Academy  of  War — a  laurel  wreath. 

The  Swedish  Society  of  Engineers — a  wreath  of  laurel. 

The  Swedish  Society  of  Inventors — a  wreath  of  oak-leaves. 

The  Society  of  Steamboat  Captains — a  wreath  of  cypress 
and  laurel  "To  John  Ericsson,  the  creator  of  the  modern  steam- 
boat fleet." 

The  Technological  Society — a  wreath  of  cypress. 

The  Society  of  Machinists — a  wreath  of  laurel  "to  the  hon- 
orary member." 

Seamen's  Society — a  wreath  of  laurel. 

Stockholm  Labor  Society — a  laurel  wreath. 

The  Technological  High  School — a  laurel  wreath, 

Aftonbladet,  journal,  wTeath. 

It  will  be  noticed  that  it  is  mostly  the  learned  societies  that 
have  remembered  the  great  man,  which  is  true  also  of  Gothen- 
burg and  other  cities. 

The  Scientific  and  Literary  Society  of  Gothenburg  contrib- 
uted a  laurel  wreath. 

The  Technological  Society  of  the  same  city  sends  a  similar 
wreath  to  the  pioneer  in  the  field  of  engineering  and  invention. 

The  Machinists'  Society — \vreath  of  oak-leaves. 

Lund  students  sent  a  wreath  of  laurel  with  this  inscription: 
Terram  non  animum  mutant 
Qut  trans  mare  currunt. 

Orphei  Drangar,  elites  of  Upsala  students,  did  the  singing  at 
John  Ericsson's  grave. 

The  Scanian  (Skinska)  Club  of  Engineers— wreath  of  laurel. 

Sailors'  Society,  Carlskrona— wreath  of  laurel. 

The  scholars  at  the  Technological  Institute,  Norrkoping — 
wreath  of  laurel.     Inscription:    "Your  memory  shall  never  die." 

Technological  Society,  Eskilstuna— a  laurel  wreath. 

Employes    at    the    mechanical  shops,  Kristinehamn — laurel 

wreath. 

Labor  Society,  Filipstad— wreath  of  cypress. 

The  City  of  Carlstad — laurel  wreath. 

The  Lodge  Filip  of  the  Good  Templars,   Filipstad— laurel 

wreath. 

The  Singers  of  Filipstad  are  in  the  habit  of  singing  at  the 

582 


grave  of  John  Ericsson  everyi5th  of  September,  tho  dav  when 
the  remains  arrived  home  there. 

A  beautiful  wreath  of  oak-leaves  with  black  ribbons  and 
marked  F.  S — s  has  the  pretty  inscription:  "John  Ericsson,  the 
patriot,  who  by  labor  and  genius  won  world-wide  fame,  and  bv 
his  patriotism  the  love  of  the  Swedes.  'AH  my  power  and  all  my 
possession  I  place  at  the  service  of  my  native  land.'  " 

A  bust  of  John  Ericsson  and  also  a  lithographic  crayon  em- 
bellish the  grave. 

Our  illustrious  countryman's  (John  Ericsson)  life  presents 
many  shining  examples  of  combats  without  the  clang  of  arms,  of 
conquests  made  without  the  shedding  of  blood,  says  one  of  his 
biographers. 

Genius  was  his  sword  as  w^ell  as  shield.  In  labor  he  found 
his  honor,  and  the  brilliant  laurels  he  reaped  in  the  fields  of 
peace  and  that  threw  such  a  splendor  over  himself  and  his  land, 
are  blessings  for  the  whole  human  race.  J\lay  his  example  make 
many  followers! 

Rich  and  abundant  w-as  the  harvest  of  flowers  deposited  by 
love,  gratitude  and  admiration  on  the  cofifin  of  John  Ericsson,  but 
one  wreath  was  missing  up  to  May  22,  1895,  the  wreath  which 
was  to  remind  us  of  the  part  this  philantropist  and  genius  took 
in  the  cause  of  liberty  for  the  North  American  slaves. 

On  the  above  day  the  Fisk  Jubilee  Singers,  a  celebrated  troop 
of  colored  singers,  gave  a  concert  in  the  church  of  Filipstad,  at 
which  occasion  the  song  to  the  honor  of  John  Ericsson,  the  son^ 
about  their  first  hero,  John  Brown,  at  the  same  time  placing  a 
wreath  of  gratitude  on  the  sarcophagus  of  John  Ericsson.  The 
accompanying  inscription  reads:  "From  former  slaves  and  the 
children  of  slaves  to  the  memory  of  John  Ericsson,  one  of  the 
great  champions  of  freedom." 

The  freshest  wreath  on  this  tomb  is  the  one  placed  there  June 
12,  1895,  by  the  Vermland  members  of  the  Upsala  Singers  when 
they  passed  through  the  place  on  their  trip. 

John  Ericsson  is  and  will  always  remain  a  historical  per- 
sonage for  us  Swedish-Americans.  His  name  shall  be  honored 
as  long  as  the  unity  of  the  States,  and  their  independence  as  a 
republic,  is  dear  to  us.  No  wonder  that  John  Ericsson  festivities 
are  heard  of  year  after  year,  and  that  the  Swedish-.\mericans 
learn  to  revere  his  memory  more  and  more  as  time  flies  by — this 
highly  gifted  son  of  Vermland  who  once,  by  his  Monitor,  rescued 

583 


our  cause  when  the  union  lay  trembHng  in  the  scale.  Three 
cheers  for  John  Ericsson's  memory  up  here  in  the  high  North 
and  in  America! 

The  monument  is  one  of  the  handsomest  I  have  ever  seen, 
and  will  bear  witness  from  generation  to  generation  to  the  great- 
ness of  John  Ericsson,  and  the  gratitude  of  his  native  country  to 
one  of  its  greatest  sons. 

Later  we  took  a  view  of  the  stately  church  and  the  surround- 
ing grounds,  bought  som&  photographic  views  and  started  off  in 
the  direction  of  Kil  on  the  6:30  train.  At  the  station  we  saw 
some  carloads  of  wood-pulp  on  its  way  to  Gothenburg,  and  from 
there  to  foreign  countries. 


584 


CHAPTER  XLm. 

A  Day  in   Beautiful  Carlstad. 

After  a  good  night's  rest  in  Kil  we  went  the  next  day  to  Carl- 
stad, in  the  province  of  Vermland,  which  city  is  noted,  first, 
for  being  the  resident  city  of  the  bishop  of  the  diocese,  and, 
secondly,  for  the  old  saying  that  the  sun  shines  there  in  a  pecu- 
liarly brilliant  way. 

On  the  train  I  met  quite  unexpectedly  Pastor  Juhlin  of  the 
City  of  Arvika,  who  formerly  was  a  member  of  our  Augustana 
Synod.  He  had  l.-ecome  healthy  and  robust  at  home  by  the 
invigorating  climate  of  the  ever-cheerful  Vermland,  so  much  so 
that  I  did  not  recognize  him  at  first  sight.  Our  meeting  was 
especially  delightful  to  me.  For  w^e  are  just  like  a  pair  of  twins, 
he  and  I,  born  on  the  same  day,  and  very  good  friends  besides. 
It  was  a  joyous  piece  of  news  to  hear  that  he  had  succeeded  well 
in  Sweden  with  his  examinations,  and  that  he  continues  to  pros- 
per in  every  other  way. 

On  the  same  train  I  also  met  Pastor  Viotti,  who  was  on  his 
w^ay  to  Upsala. 

At  half  past  ten  o'clock  we  arrived  at  beautiful  Carlstad. 
where,  as  stated,  the  bishop  of  the  diocese  of  X'ermland  resides. 
But  with  that  famous  sun  of  Carlstad  your  humble  servant  had 
rather  bad  luck.  Now,  as  seven  years  ago,  it  denied  mc  the 
privilege  to  behold  its  efifect  on  the  handsome  city  and  its  no  less 
pretty  surroundings,  for  just  as  I  came  it  began  to  rain. 

Here  now  comes  the  well-known  Dean  Jakobsson.  He  looks 
somewhat  aged  already,  but  his  fame  as  a  learned  and  pious  man 
has  not  declined  with  his  youth.  He  stopped  when  I  saluted 
him,  and  our  interview  was  both  entertaining  and  edifying. 

He  said  that  the  sectarian  movements  of  \'ermland  were  in 

585 


a  retrograding  condition,  which,  he  added,  was  also  true  of  re- 
Hgion  in  general  A  deplorable  spirit  of  indifference  had  taken 
possession  of  the  people,  and  this  indifferentism  was  caused  by 
the  fact  that  every  Tom,  Dick  and  Harry  had  been  allowed  to 
preach  what  they  pleased.  Just  as  I  always  have  said,  viz.,  that 
the  preacher  ought  to  be  qualified  enough  to  know  what  he 
teaches  and  be  "rite  vocatus"  besides,  as  otherwise  the  good  re- 
sult will  not  be  permanent. 

Mr.  Jakobsson  remembered  well  Doctor  O.  Olson  in  Rock 
Island.  He  was  a  great  light  in  Vermland  while  there,  said  my 
reverend  friend,  who  especially  recalled  a  speech  by  Dr.  Olson, 
delivered  before  the  school-children  in  Carlstad  long:,  long  ago. 

Said  further  that  the  people  of  Vermland  have  a  marked 
inclination  for  religion,  and  mentioned  the  Schwabians  in  connec- 
tion therewith.  This  gave  me  the  opportunity  to  state  that  I 
had  made  the  same  observation  in  Lindsborg,  and  then  I  could 
not  omit  to  express  my  praise  of  the  whole  Swedish  people  in 
America  for  their  religious  interest  and  willingness  to  make 
the  most  liberal  sacrifices  for  the  church-work  in  this  country. 

The  Mission-Friends,  the  Baptists,  and  the  Salvationists,  not 
to  mention  the  Good-Templars  and  other  temperance  societies, 
had  all  found  Vermland  to  be  a  pretty  good  field  for  their  activ- 
ity. The  Mission-Friends  in  America  hail  to  a  great  extent  from 
this  province.  Those  among  them  who  have  organized  them- 
selves into  a  covenant  are  the  best  and,  indeed,  the  only  ones 
who  have  any  future.  In  regard  to  their  present  condition  the 
following  statement  at  their  last  annual  meeting  may  be  of  some 
general  interest. 

The  Forbundet  (Covenant)  has  260  ministers,  which  is  twice 
the  number  of  the  congregations.  Its  membership  is  something 
over  10,000,  and  in  its  Sunday-schools  about  12,714  children 
are  instructed.  The  mission-houses  represent  a  value  of  $448,000. 
In  its  schools,  there  were  81  students,  of  which  15  were  candi- 
dates for  the  ministry.  The  election  of  executive  committee 
resulted  in  the  reelection  of  C.  A.  Bjork  as  president,  the  election 
of  E.  A.  Skogsbergh  as  vice-president,  D.  Nywall  as  secretary, 
A.  Mellander  as  vice-secretary  and  secretary  of  finance,  and  C. 
G.  Peterson  of  Chicago,  manager  of  "Missions  Vannen,"  as 
treasurer. 

At  the  annual  meeting,  it  was  reported  that  the  debt 
amounted  to  $18,045  ^"^  for  the  payment  of  this,  those  present 

5S6 


subscribed  the  neat  sum  of  $3,000.  Next  annual  meeting  will 
be  held  at  Omaha,  Neb. 

Of  the  Swedish  Baptists  in  the  United  States  this  may  be 
said: 

"The  statistics  of  the  Swedish  Baptist  congregations  in  the 
United  States  of  North  America  for  the  year  1896  has  now  been 
issued  and  a  copy  has  been  received  by  us.  In  it  wt  find  that 
at  the  beginning  of  the  year  there  were  280  Swedish  Baptist  con- 
gregations with  a  membership  of  18,902  members.  .Among  the 
separate  conferences  Minnesota  leads,  with  4.967  members;  next, 
the  Illinois  conference  with  3,517,  the  conference  of  the  Eastern 
states  with  3,256,  Wisconsin  conference  with  1,107,  Iowa  con- 
ference with  1,027,  ^"d  the  Nebraska  conference  with  992  mem- 
bers; the  other  conferences  have  a  smaller  number  of  members, 
varying  from  370  to  663.  The  number  of  ministers  is  161,  but, 
besides  these,  there  are  74  ministers  not  bound  to  any  congrega- 
tion. The  seating  capacity  of  the  churches  is  44,208  persons, 
and  the  property  of  the  church  is  valued  at  $727,748.48,  upon 
which  rests  a  debt  of  $159,149.78.  With  references  to  changes 
during  the  year  we  find  that  1,348  have  been  baptized,  912  have 
migrated  to  this  land,  and  372  have  been  admitted  by  confession 
of  faith  or  have  been  re-instated;  on  the  other  hand,  1,134  have 
removed  to  other  lands,  872  have  been  excluded  and  161  have 
died.  The  gain  in  membership  is  therefore  no  more  than  468. 
A  noticeable  fact  is  that  the  number  of  emigrants  from  this  coun- 
try and  the  church  exceeds  the  number  of  immigrants  by  no  less 

than  222. 

The  statistics  concerning  the  Swedish  Methodists  in  America 

appear  like  this: 

The  number  of  members  amount  to  about  20.000.  that  of  the 
congregations  to  224,  that  of  the  churches  to  180.  and  that  of 
the  ministers  to  207.  A  complete  and  exhaustive  history  of  this 
denomination  is  now  being  prepared,  and  will  soon  be  ready. 

The  English-speaking  Methodists  and  Baptists  in  America 
have  long  classed  Sweden,  Norway  and  Denmark  among  the 
countries  which  collectively  they  call  "the  foreign  mission."  and 
where  they  maintain  missionary  efforts.  These  Lutheran  coun- 
tries are  thus  put  together  with  China,  Japan  and  Africa. 

Regarding  the  missionary  appropriations  made  by  the  Metho- 
dist-Episcopal Church  for  the  Scandinavian  countries.  I  have 
gathered  the  following  information  from  the  annals  of  the  church 

5^^7 


itself,  and  found  in  the  University  library  at  Evanston,  Illinois: 

For  the  Swedish-Norwegian  mission  the  church  appropriated 
during  the  period  1855-65,  $165,816.68;  for  1866-68,  $68,183.39, 
which  sum  was  for  the  whole  Scandinavian  field;  for  the  long 
period,  1868-97,  $655,027.93,  which  amount  went  to  Sweden 
alone;  the  years  1868-69,  $23,039.80  for  Norway  and  Denmark; 
for  Norway  alone,  1870-97,  $357,094.46;  for  Denmark  the  same 
period,  $301,321.73,  and  for  the  years  1886-96  the  Bible  Society 
paid  $2,150.  Hence  the  total  amount  spent  for  missionary  pur- 
poses in  t1ie  Lutheran  Scandinavian  countries  is  $1,572,633.90. 

The  appropriations  by  the  same  church  during  the  period 
1859-68  for  the  missionary  work  among  foreigners  in  the  United 
States,  the  Germans  not  included,  were  for  the  years  1867-74, 
$229,525,  of  which  sum  $106,400  went  to  the  Scandinavians.  For 
the  same  purpose  the  same  church  disbursed  $7.^,032  for  the 
period  of  1881-96.  For  the  Swedes  alone  the  expenses  were 
$376,650  from  1875  to  1896.  For  the  benefit  of  the  Norwegians 
and  the  Danes  the  fund  furnished  w^as  $187,103,  from  1885  to 
1896;  and  between  1875  and  1884  the  Norwegians  alone  drew 
$61,561,  while  the  Danes  got  $1,500,  for  the  years  1875,  1876  and 
1883.     Total,  $1,037,171. 

Thus  is  seen  that  the  American  Methodists  have  spent  the 
enormous  sum  of  $2,609,804.99,  here  at  home  and  in  Sweden, 
Norwav  and  Denmark,  for  the  purpose  of  converting  Lutherans 
to  Methodists. 

I  have  asked  the  great  Chicago  University  to  give  me  similar 
statements  of  the  Baptists'  appropriations  for  their  missionary 
work  in  the  Scandinavian  countries,  and  so  far  I  have  been  in- 
formed that  Sweden  alone  had,  many  years  ago,  cost  them 
$230,000. 

Some  of  the  more  clear-sighted  ^Methodists  in  America,  espe- 
cially among  the  laymen,  have  already  seen  and  acknowledged 
the  impropriety  of  this  kind  of  missionary  work  among  Scandi- 
navian Lutherans  who  are  instructed  in  the  word  of  God  from 
their  childhood  and  remaining  for  the  length  of  their  life  under 
the  immediate  influence  of  the  Christian  church  and  its  institu- 
tions. Why  not,  they  ask,  spend  these  efforts  among  the  millions 
of  heathens,  who  have  not  yet  been  reached  by  the  gospel?  The 
sagacious,  energetic  and  intelligent  Bishop  Vincent  of  the  Meth- 
odist Church,  who  is  the  originator  of  the  grand  Chautauqua 
idea,  visited  Sw^eden  some  years  ago.     When  I  met  him  a  year 

588 


later  he  told  me  that  the  first  question  he  had  to  answer  himself 
in  Sweden  was,  "Why  am  I  here?  It  is  clear,"  he  said,  "that 
we  cannot  expect  to  build  up  a  church  of  our  own  in  Sweden 
in  the  sense  we  do  it  in  other  countries.  All  we  possibly  can  do 
is  to  arouse  and  revivify  what  is  already  there." 

These  were  honest  and  manly  words.  It  is,  too,  a  fact  that 
the  Methodists  of  Sweden  generally  are  spoken  of  as  the  most 
candid  and  exemplary  among  all  those  who  have  left  the  Luth- 
eran State  Church. 

That  the  Swedish  Episcopalians  in  America,  who  are  anxious 
to  appear  as  the  nearest  kindred  to  the  Swedish  Church,  arc  not 
recognized  as  Lutherans  or  in  any  way  identical  with  the  State- 
Church  at  home,  is  a  well-known  fact  to  all  who  have  in  the  least 
inquired  into  the  matter.  The  confessions  of  faith  of  the  two 
churches  are,  as  we  know,  not  at  all  the  same,  and  such  being 
the  case,  it  follows  that  all  talk  about  identity  is  futile. 

It  is  something  very  sad  to  me  to  see  the  Protestant  churches 
have  so  little  respect  for  themselves,  for  each  other  and  for  their 
common  Lord  and  Master  that  this  proselyting  business  is  thus 
made  possible.  When  my  own  church,  the  Lutheran,  engages  in 
the  business  of  making  proselytes  I  shall  judge  her  as  I  judge  the 
others.  The  whole  matter  is  wrong  and  unevangelical,  and  fur- 
thermore, a  crime  against  our  plain  duty  to  the  heathen  world. 

How  the  Lutheran  Church  in  America  has  developed  as  a 
whole  and  among  the  Swedes  is  shown  by  the  following  two 
tabular  statements: 

Statistics,  showing  the  growth  and  present  size  of  the  Luth- 
eran Church  in  the  United  States: 

Year.  Ministers.      Cor 

1800  70 

1820  170 

1830  300 

1840  400 

1850  757 

i860  1,134 

1870  1,933 

1880  3^092 

1890  4,692 

1896  6,152 

591 


regations. 

Communicants, 

350 

15,000 

850 

35,000 

1,000 

55.000 

1,200 

120,000 

1,624 

143.540 

2,017 

235,000 

3,417 

387.746 

5>388 

694,426 

7.948 

1,099,868 

11,095 

1,428,693 

Statistics,  showing  the  growth  and  present  size  of  the  Au- 
giistana  Synod. 

Par-  To  Expenses 

Year.       Min.      Con.  Church,    son.      Comm.         Pop.  benevolence.  by  congreg. 

I860  17  36  21  —  3,748  —  Doll.      4,29.00  5,599.33 

1870  45  99  51  30  16,376  26,322  "        7,381.35  124,707.00 

1880  141  311  214  95  39,979  71,904  "     31,788.65  138,111.65 

1890  308  611  4b6  201  78,295  145,073  "     75,329.47  580,845.93 

1896  438  847  679  302  110,430  187,314  "     96,587.94  710,422.60 

What  the  Archbishop  of  Sweden  thinks  of  the  fact  that  any- 
one may  preach  will  appear  from  the  following  anecdote: 

The  Archbishop  and  the  Minister  of  War — one  as  good  as 
another. 

The  Archbishop  himself  was  on  a  visit  to  Upland's  regi- 
ment at  Poland's-backen,  near  Upsala,  and  was  treated,  of  course, 
as  a  most  highly  respected  and  honored  guest.  He  was  enter- 
tained in  the  best  possible  manner,  and  was  especially  shown  the 
homage  of  having  the  whole  regiment  file  past  him  in  full  parade. 

When  he  beheld  this,  he  said  to  the  bystanders: 

"Nay,  why  should  not  the  Archbishop  of  the  realm  review  a 
military  parade;  as  long  as  the  Minister  of  War  travels  about 
dedicating  churches  and  chapels." 

Pardon  my  deviation.  We  are  yet  in  Carlstad  and  con- 
versing with  one  of  the  most  erudite  men  of  the  Swedish  Church, 
one  who  very  well  remembered  our  friend,  Pastor  Seleen,  who 
at  present  is  enjoying  a  necessary  rest  in  his  native  Sweden. 

Now  we  went  to  pay  our  respect  to  the  Bishop  of  Carlstad 
diocese,  the  aged  and  venerable  Claes  Herman  Rundgren,  who, 
besides,  enjoys  the  distinction  of  being  one  of  the  Eighteen  in 
the  Swedish  Academy. 

He  received  us  in  a  very  friendly  way.  One  feels  immedi- 
ately that  he  is  a  great  and  in  every  sense  ripe  character,  a  man 
who  knows  what  he  is  about,  and  knows,  too,  how  he  shall 
reach  the  desired  end.  Bishop  Rundgren  must  already  have 
seen  his  78th  year;  he  is  tall  of  stature  and  lean,  wears  side- 
whiskers,  has  fine  features  and  looks  very  distinguished. 

We  spoke  first  about  Sweden  in  general  and  about  the  Stock- 
holm exposition.  It  was  the  opinion  of  the  bishop  that  Sweden 
does  not  know  itself  sufificiently,  and  that  one  of  the  benefits  to 
be  derived  from  this  exhibition  would  consist  in  a  better  knowl- 
edge of  the  country  and  of  each  other. 

592 


As  regards  the  church,  tlic  bishop  seemed  to  think  that  the 
people,  how  indifferent  they  in  a  rcHgious  sense  may  appear, 
nevertheless  have  the  love  of  the  church  at  heart  in  a  larger 
measure  than  is  commonly  believed.  This  lie  said  in  connection 
with  the  subject  of  official  visits  and  their  great  use. 

The  bishop  is  strong  and  indefatigable.  Others  take  vaca- 
tions, he  works  on  even  during  the  summer  . 

Pastor  Juhlin's  errand  was  to  deliver  the  hundjlc  request  of 
the  church  council  that  the  bishop  visit  Arvika,  preach  there  and 
officiate  at  an  act  of  dedication  of  some  recently  made  additions 
and  improvements  about  the  burying  ground.  The  bishop  prom- 
ised to  come.  Of  his  visit  Pastor  Juhlin  wrote  later: — "The 
bishop  came  to  Arvika,  according  to  agreement,  and  delivered 
an  extraordinary  fine  sermon  with  Matt.  15:  29-31  for  text,  the 
subject  being,  'How  Jesus  helps  in  every  need.'  And  the  opinion 
of  all  who  heard  the  sermon  was  that  never  has  anyone  spoken 
as  the  bishop  did.  Although  it  rained  that  day  the  concourse 
of  people  was  so  great  that  only  half  of  them,  found  room  in  the 
church. 

The  bishop  showed  us  a  pamphlet  just  received  and  written 
by  Hammarskold,  who  'in  it  endeavors  to  show  the  natural  rela- 
tionship between  the  Swedish  State  Church  and  the  Episcopal 
Church.  The  bishop's  opinion  of  it  was  this:  "It  will  make 
very  little  impression  on  this  side." 

With  gratitude  for  the  entertainment  in  the  Episcopal  resi- 
dence we  took  a  hearty  farewell  of  the  venerable  dignitary. 

How  funny  they  are  in  old  Sweden,  anyhow.  They  have  two 
kinds  of  flowers  which  they  call  by  the  names  of  clerical 
(Geneva  bands)  collars  and  la)'-preachers,  respectively.  Char- 
acteristically enough,  the  former  grow  in  the  poorest  soil, 
while  the  other  seek  the   richest. 

In  Carlstad  we  met,  also,  the  county  judge  and  provincial 
secretary,  Mr.  Frithiof  Grafstrom,  son  of  the  bishop  with  the 
same  name,  and  son-in-law  of  Mr.  Olson,  manufacturer  and  mem- 
ber of  the  first  chamber  of  the  diet. 

We  did  not  forget  to  visit  the  cathedral,  where  we  were  kindly 
attended  by  the  gentleman  in  charge,  Mr.  J.  O.  Anderson, 
who  has  many  acquaintances  in  Lindsborg.  The  church  is  large 
and  spacious.'  It  was  dedicated  1730.  and  has  an  organ  with  29 
pipes,  worth  22,000  crowns.  In  this  choir  is  a  number  of  pretty 
paintings.  It  seats  2,000  persons,  and  it  was  furnished  with 
new  benches  in  1878. 

593 


We  continued  the  trip  in  the  afternoon.  We  saw  Klarelfven 
(the  Clear  river)  and  a  large  saw-mill  at  Skara.  Between  that 
place  and  Kil  is  seen  a  beautiful  prairie  girted  by  woody  hills. 
We  arrived  at  Kil  in  a  shower  of  rain,  and  from  there  w^e  went 
to  Trollhattan,  the  Niagara  of  Sweden. 

I  said  that  Bishop  Rundgren  is  one  of  eighteen  in  the  Swedish 
Academy.    The  whole  roll  of  members  looks  this  way: 

1.  Hans  Ludvig  Forssell,  elected  1881,  president  in  the  prin- 

cipal college. 

2.  Gunnar  Wennerberg,  1866,  ex-state  councillor. 

3.  Carl  Gustaf  Malmstrom,  1878,  state  archivarian. 

4.  Claes  Herman  Rundgren,  1877,  bishop  of  Carlstad. 

5.  Knut  Fredrik  Sodervall,  1892,  professor  of  Northern  lan- 

guages at  Lund. 

6.  Hans  Olof  Hildebrand,  1895,  state  antiquarian. 

7.  Nils  Fredrik  Sander,  1889,  ex-councillor. 

8.  Carl  David  af  Wirsen,  1879,  permanent  secretary  of  the 

Academy. 

9.  Esaias  Henrik  Wilhelm  Tegner,   1872,  professor  of  Ori- 

ental languages  at  Lund. 

10.  Count  Carl  Johan  Gustaf  Snoilsky,  1876,  chief  librarian. 

11.  Chas.  Teodor  Odhncr,   1885,  state  archivarian. 

12.  Adolf  Fredrik  Nordenskiold,  1893,    professor   of  Mineral- 

ogy, Stockholm. 

13.  Carl  Anders  Kullberg,  1865,  author,  defunct;  vacant. 

14.  Carl  Rupert  Nyblom,  1879,  professor  of  esthetics  and  lit- 

erature at  L'psala. 

15.  Anton  Niklas  Sundberg.  1874.  archbishop. 

16.  Erik  Georg  Waldemar  Napoleon  Rudin,  1896,  professor 

in  exegetics.  I'psala. 

17.  Vacant  after  L;,;,is  de  Geer. 

18.  Gustaf  Hakon  Jordan   Ljunggren.    1865.  ex-professor  of 

esthetics  and  history  of  literature,  Lund. 


594 


CHAPTER  XLIV. 

Trollhattan. 

Swedish-Americans  all  over  Sweden  this  summer!  At  Kil 
I  met  at  the  railroad  station  one  Mr.  Olson  from  Chicago,  a 
friend  of  Pastor  Abrahamson.  As  we  near  Gothenburg  we 
strike  a  company  of  Rockford  Swedes  on  their  way  back  to  their 
fine  little  city  in  the  northwestern  part  of  Illinois,  where  our 
countrymen  have  met  first  success,  then  reverse,  and  now  again 
prosperity,  which  will  last  forever,  let  us  hope. 

And  now  farewell  to  Kil,  a  place  that  has  become  renowned  in 
the  United  States,  thanks  be  to  "Jan  Olson,"  the  popular  humor- 
ist. 

On  the  train  one  has  plenty  of  time  to  read,  especially  when 
traveling  through  regions  where  you  have  been  before,  so  that 
nothing  new  attracts  your  attention  on  the  outside. 

In  the  newspapers  I  found  accounts  of  the  annual  meeting  of 
the  Swedish  free-thinkers.  Grand  speeches  were  made  of  course, 
for  talk  is  cheap,  as  the  prosaic  but  ever-practical  Yankee  says. 
These  fellows  were,  naturally,  anxious  to  have  the  State-Church 
abolished,  "because  she  is  so  irrational  in  her  teachings  and  so 
unjust  in  her  policy."  Strange  enough  the  notorious  Wicksell 
opposed  a  resolution  to  this  effect,  as  he  was  in  favor  of  the 
reformation,  not  the  abolishment,  of  the  church. 

It  is  actually  amusing  to  a  thinking  and  reflecting  person  to 
notice  the  rash  impudence  of  these  free-thinking  gentlemen. 
Where  or  when  did  they  acquire  patent  right  on  everything  ra- 
tional? Or  how  can  they  know  in  every  instance  what  is  ra- 
tional or  not?  I.  among  many  others,  should  very  much  like  to 
know  where  they  have  their  source  of  knowledge.  They  are  in  the 
habit  of  speaking  as  if  nobody  else  knew  anything  or  had  any 
common-sense,  and  this  with  a  confidence  and  assurance  that  at 

5^5 


once  reminds  the  hearer  of  the  way  people  talk  in  the  insane 
asylums.  The  views  of  these  "blasphemous  youths,"  as  they  are 
called,  have  proved  themselves  entirely  ineffectual  for  the  produc- 
tion of  any  good.  In  America  I  have  noticed  that  these  free- 
thinkers are  not  inclined  to  have  their  children  educated  in  re- 
ligious unbelief,  but  strive  to  have  them  brought  under  the  in- 
fluence of  churches  and  Christian  people  in  general.  And  they 
have  themselves  told  me  why.  In  one  family  the  father  was  a 
free-thinker,  but  the  mother  a  believing  Christian.  They  had  a 
lovely  little  girl  with  rare  understanding  for  her  age.  She  fell 
seriously  sick  and  knew  soon  that  she  was  going  to  die.  The 
father  sat  by  her  side  trying  to  console  her.  Suddenly  she  asked: 
"Papa,  do  you  want  me  to  die  in  your  faith  or  mamma's?"  The 
man  remained  quiet  a  little  while,  but  answered  finally  with  these 
words:     "Die  in  mamma's  faith,  my  child,  die  in  mamma's  faith." 

Christianity  is  true,  not  alone  as  a  divine  revelation,  but  also 
as  a  common  moral  code.  Look  at  it  in  its  general  aspects.  It 
makes  man  better  and  happier  already  here  on  earth,  and  if  its 
teachings  are  true  it  makes  us  infinitely  happier  in  eternity. 

One  step  more.  They  want  to  appear  learned.  But  are 
they?  Do  they  possess  the  impartiality,  moderation,  sagacity, 
penetration  of  mind  and  humble  love  of  truth  that  we  expect 
of  a  learned  person? 

I  need  not  answer  that  question.  All  true  philosophy,  like  all 
true  theology,  point  alone  to  Him  who,  moved  by  love,  died 
on  Golgatha  as  the  one  who  has  got  the  key  to  the  whole  situa- 
tion, being  the  center  of  all  and  the  one  able  to  explain  the  whole 
thing. 

Now  we  are  here — at  Trollhattan.  Having  ordered  room  at 
the  railway-hotel  we  procured  a  guide  and  told  him  to  show  us 
everything,  which  he  did  to  our  fullest  satisfaction.  These  small 
guides  are  obliged  to  give  20  per  cent  of  the  fees  they  receive  to 
the  fund  of  the  tourist  society.  Poor  little  fellows!  Knowing 
their  duty  in  this  respect  I  was  moved  to  increase  my  fee  a  little, 
so  as  to  keep  up  the  spirit  of  my  ciceron. 

The  name  Trollhattan.  which  means  the  Witch-cap.  was  known 
already  in  ancient  times  through  the" fabulous  story  of  Starkod- 
der's  and  Hergrim's  fight  about  the  beautiful  Ogn  Alfafostre. 
Starkodder  had,  so  this  story  goe?,  a  sweetheart  called  Ogn  Alfa- 
fostre. Hergrim  Halftroll  was  the  name  of  the  rival — always 
indispensable  in  a  narrative  of  this  kind.     At  a  time  when  Star- 

5.^ 


kodder  was  absent  Hergrim  came  and  carried  off  the  beautiful 
maid  and  married  her.  When  Starkodder  returned  he  became 
very  mad  and  challenged  the  bold  Hergrim  to  a  duel  which  was 
to  decide  whether  he  or  the  other  fellow  should  have  the  fair 
Ogn.  This  duel  took  place  at  Trollhattan.  Hergrim  was  mor- 
tally wounded.  This  the  maid  took  so  hard  that  she  committed 
suicide,  and  the  place  got  the  name  it  still  bears  after  Hergrim 
Halftroll  (Half-witch)  who  was  killed  in  the  fight. 

The  day  was  not  fair.  Shower  succeeded  shower,  and  it  is 
very  difficult  to  have  an  open  eye  for  the  beauty  of  nature  under 
such  circumstances.  I  was  more  favored  when  I  saw  the  place 
the  last  time,  and  my  impressions  of  it  then  will  have  to  serve  the 
purpose  now\ 

We  had  soon  passed  a  row  of  shops  and  factories  and  arrived 
at  Utsikten,  or  Prospect  Point,  as  it  may  be  called  in  English, 
from  which  elevation  one  can  with  great  advantage  view  the 
whole  situation,  especially  if  you,  as  we  did,  enter  the  tower  at 
the  hotel.  We  now  look  down  and  out  over  the  river  and  the 
falls,  trying  to  crowd  into  the  small  camera  of  the  eyes  a  picture 
of  this  miracle,  so  grand,  so  beautiful,  so  Northern  in  its  nature 
that  any  one  who  sees  it  can  never  forget  it.  The  first  impres- 
sion is  a  feeling  of  surprise.  For  Trollhattan  is  indeed  greater 
than  its  reputaton.  It  is  like  the  Swedes  and  everything  Swedish : 
too  modest.  If  this  grand  cataract  was  in  Norway  or  America, 
the  whole  world  would  talk  about  it.  I  have  viewed  Niagara 
with  admiration  from  all  possible  points,  and  of  course  in  each 
case  came  to  the  conclusion  that  there  can  be  but  one  Niagara  on 
the  globe,  but  Trollhattan  is  unique,  if  the  expression  is  per- 
mitted; the  falls  are  indeed  no  imitation,  but  something  in  and 
by  themselves.  Of  course  I  expected  to  like  them,  but  to  find 
them  so  grand  and  myself  so  delighted  over  their  unique  beauty 
(pardon  me  once  more),  this  was  something  unexpected,  as 
neither  descriptions  nor  illustrations  are  able  to  give  an  adequate 
idea  of  the  reality. 

We  still  remain  at  Utsikten.  On  the  opposite  side  appears 
a  clifif  overgrown  with  trees  and  so  high,  so  northcrnly  austere 
that  the  impression  remains  forever.  And  now  I  look  down  into 
the  deep,  sombre  river.  Lo,  not  one  cataract,  but  a  whole  set 
of  them,  a  chain  5,000  feet  in  length.  It  is  fall  after  fall,  and 
no  repetitions  but  new  formations  every  time.  I  stood  there 
long,  leaning  on  a  cane  and  trying  to  obtain  one  single  impres- 

597 


sion  of  the  whole  of  this  most  wildly  beautiful  scene  I  have 
ever  beheld.  What  a  majesty  in  the  multitudinous  voices  of  the 
waters!  What  a  completeness  of  the  whole  picture!  How  truly 
Northern  the  aspect  of  it  all!  Oh,  how  I  love  this  untamed  nature 
in  its  free  defiance,  in  its  callous  austerity,  in  its  smiling  grace! 
Where  besides  in  the  land  of  my  ancestors  is  found  such  a 
wonderful  combination?  I  stand  here  yet.  Look  at  the  silver- 
ribbon  in  the  dark-green  frame,  lo,  how  the  spirits  of  the  waters 
heedlessly  jump  from  cataract  to  cataract,  and  behold  how  the 
rainbow  from  on  high  colors  the  spray  sent  up  from  the  roaring 
mass  of  water  as  it  tumbles  down  the  rocks!  Is  nature  dead? 
Indeed  not.  It  lives — it  lives  at  least  here  in  old  Sweden,  for  it 
lived  for  me  that  memorable  hour  I  spent  at  Trollhattan. 

We  behold  first  the  three  Hell-Falls.  They  are  formed  by 
the  mass  of  water  plunging  in  wild  haste  over  three  precipices 
which  appeared  to  me  much  greater  than  they  really  are.  After 
these  come  the  Stampstroms  Falls,  and  further  down  the  Toppo 
Falls,  which  is  the  most  important  of  them  all  in  point  of  size 
and  grandeur.  Here  the  river  rushes  on  with  a  weird  and  ter- 
rible sound  in  order  to  precipitate  itself  down  a  rock  44  feet  in 
height.  The  cataract  is  divided  in  the  middle  by  an  island  called 
Toppon.  In  one  of  the  rocks  on  either  side  of  the  falls  is  found 
a  large  hollow  place  where,  according  to  tradition,  cruel  robbers 
of  old  kept  in  hiding.  Right  above  this  hollow  there  was  long 
ago  a  protruding  rock  called  Skraddare  Klinten  or  the  Tailor's 
Bluff,  which  name,  if  the  old  legend  is  true,  is  got  after  a  tailor 
who  was  sentenced  to  death  but  promised  a  pardon  if  he  could, 
sitting  on  the  high  cliff,  sew  a  new  suit  without  getting  dizzy- 
in  the  terrific  roar.  One  of  the  sources  of  my  information  says 
he  succeeded,  and  another  that  he  did  not,  but  both  agree  that 
he  eventually  found  his  grave  in  the  raging  abyss. 

Near  by  is  Kungsgrottan  (the  Royal  Grotto)  where  several 
royal  persons,  as  for  instance,  Gustavus  III.,  Charles  XVI. 
(Bernadotte)  and  Oscar  I.,  have  had  their  names  cut  into  the  rock. 

The  last  of  the  falls,  or  the  first,  according  to  the  way  you 
take  them,  is  called  Gullofallet,  which  throws  itself  down  a  cliff 
26  feet  in  height,  divided  in  its  fall  by  an  island,  Gullon. 

At  the  Toppo  Falls  there  is  a  rickety  iron  bridge,  as  waver- 
ing and  shaky  as  a  new-fangled  member  of  oCngress  when  he 
rises  the  first  time  to  make  a  speech.  This  bridge  leads  to  a  little 
rocky  isle  in  the  midst  of  the  roaring  stream.     There  the  view 

598 


is  majestically  grand.  The  roar  makes  all  common  conversation 
impossible.  But  you  can  talk  all  you  want  when  you  get  away 
from  there.  While  on  the  spot  you  are  apt  to  be  lost  in  deep 
and  mute  contemplation. 

The  power  of  the  falls  is  of  course  enormous,  said  to  be 
equal  to  225,000  horse-power.  Several  industrial  establishments 
are  to  be  seen  here,  as  saw-mills,  paper-mills,  mechanical  shops 
and  an  oil-refinery. 

As  a  place,  Trollhattan  grows  all  the  time.  It  looked  much 
larger  and  more  populous  now  than  seven  years  ago.  A  da^' 
at  Trollhattan  is  ever  memorable.  Whoever  goes  to  Sweden 
without  taking  in  this  place  commits  an  unpardonable  mistake 
from  the  tourist's  point  of  view. 

The  following  day  we  went  towards  Gothenburg  and — our 
American  home. 


603 


CHAPTER  XLV. 

VisjTiNG  THE  King. 

Marstrand  is  one  of  Sweden's  most  popular  watering  places. 
It  is  located  on  an  island  of  the  same  name  about  twenty  miles 
north  of  Gothenburg.  A  little  steamer  takes  you  there  and 
back  for  five  kronor,  or  less  than  $1.50.  Upon  arrival  you  find 
that  Marstrand  is  six  miles  distant  from  the  main  land,  being 
only  one  of  a  series  of  islands.  Its  nature  is  very  weird,  but  the 
climate  is  wonderfully  salubrious.  The  ocean  air  is  everywhere, 
and  the  stormy  Xorth-Sea  sends  only  its  mildest  breezes  to  the 
Summer-City,  where  Sweden's  King  spends  a  month  every  sum- 
mer, joined  by  about  three  thousand  of  his  happy  subjects. 

Bishop  Johansson  and  his  son,  Cand.  Phil.  Johansson,  who 
are  spending  a  month  there,  received  us  very  kindly  and  had 
rooms  in  readiness  for  us.  Faithful  to  one  of  Sweden's  best  sum- 
mer customs,  we  at  once  took  a  walk  up  the  mountains,  from 
which  we  enjoyed  a  most  splendid  and  unique  view.  To  my 
American  friends  of  the  Central  States  and  the  West,  that  view 
would  have  been  something  never  to  have  been  forgotten.  Here 
and  there  we  saw  unlimited  expanse  of  water.  In  other  direc- 
tions, and  immediately  around  us,  were  islands,  and  rocks,  and 
light-houses,  warning  the  mariners  of  seen  and  unseen  dangers. 
I  noticed  especially  the  "Pater-Noster"  rocks,  so-called  because 
of  the  many  prayers  sent  to  heaven  by  unfortunate  sailors  who 
experienced  danger  and  death  on  the  terrible  reefs,  of  which 
only  a  part  are  visible  above  the  water's  surface. 

The  climbing  the  mountains  and  breathing  the  pure  salty 
breezes  of  the  sea,  were  a  splendid  preparation  for  our  supper  at 
8  p.  m.  We  hurried  somewhat  as  there  was  to  be  a  soiree  at 
8:30,  at  which  the  King  was  expected  to  be  present.  I  had 
never  seen  the  King  and  was  very  anxious  to  see  His  Majesty, 

604 


of  whom  1  knew  and  had  heard  so  much.  We  succeeded  in  get- 
tings  good  places  in  the  gallery  and  in  a  few  minutes  His  Maj- 
esty, King  Oscar,  three  members  of  the  cabinet  and  other  dis- 
tinguished guests  w^alked  into  the  hall.  King  Oscar  is  the  Peace- 
Monarch  of  Europe.  His  reign  is  of  twenty-five  years  duration 
since  Sept.  i8th,  and  that  period  of  time  has  been  one  of  growth, 
development  and  increased  prosperity  for  Sweden,  but  not  by 
arms  of  war,  but  by  more  vigorous  industries,  increased  popular 
education,  and  business  principles  applied  to  every-day  life.  The 
King  is  the  most  learned  monarch  living,  an  eloquent  speaker, 
a  most  entertaining  conversationalist,  a  poet  of  note,  but  also  a 
diplomat  and  an  astute  business  man. 

But  he  is  something  more.  He  is  the  nearest  and  dearest 
friend  of  his  people.  It  seems  that  he  has  not  an  enemy  in 
Sweden.  No  nihilists  in  that  Lutheran  and  educated  country. 
The  King's  ear  is  open  to  everybody,  that  is  the  reason.  Re- 
forms and  progress,  and  development  by  peaceful  means  are  the 
order  of  the  day.  Yet,  some  wanted  matters  to  move  faster, 
but  sure  is  better  than  fast. 

There  he  stands,  '•every  inch  a  King."  Oscar  U.  is  six  feet 
three  tall,  is  in  good  flesh,  68  years  old,  but  his  gait  is  that  of  a 
young  man.  He  wears  a  full  gray  beard,  trimmed  quite  short, 
and  looks  very  much  like  his  portraits.  He  was  dressed  in  a  dark- 
colored  sack-coat,  a  white  vest,  and  carried  his  white  tourist  and 
sailor  cap  in  his  hand.  No  soldier,  no  body-guard,  no  detectives 
around  that  King!  His  IMajcsty  walked  about  in  the  hall,  spoke 
with  everybody,  it  seemed,  sat  down  a  minute  here  and  a  minute 
there,  was  all  joy  and  sunshine  to  his  friends  and  subjects,  and 
looked  for  all  the  world  like  one  of  our  own  most  popular  pres- 
idents, only  more  democratic,  more  friendly  than  any  public  man 
of  note,  that  I  have  ever  met  in  America. 

There  have  been  Germans  at  Marstrand  thi.<  summer.  Some 
one  asked  the  children  of  a  lovely  family  how  they  liked  Sweden. 
"Very  well  indeed,  but  there  are  so  few  soldiers  here."  Yes.  it 
must' seem  queer  to  a  German  that  the  King  moves  about  with- 
out soldiers  guarding  his  person  or  watching  his  surroundings. 
The  ship  of  His  Majesty,  "Drott,"  looks  as  peaceful  as  its  royal 
passenger.  Happy  Sweden!  And  yet  as  long  as  its  neighbors 
profess  "armed  peace."  it  must  follow  suit,  fortify  its  shores, 
^  build  navies,  and  drill  its  citizens  in  the  use  of  not  only  books, 
but  also  arms.     An  opposite  policy  would,  to  me  at  least,  seem 

605 


almost  like  political  insanity.  Oh,  that  the  clamor  of  war  would 
forever  be  expatriated  from  all  civilized  countries.  And  yet, 
what  did  not  our  own  Senate  do  only  some  weeks  ago?  I  blush 
when  I  think  of  it,  think  of  the  sorrowful  fact  that  v,-e  clogged 
arbitration,  by  a  series  of  political  demagogery,  entirely  tm worthy 
of  our  halls  of  legislation.  The  treaty  did  not  suit  our  Senate? 
Well,  why  could  it  not  be  changed  to  suit  it?  Its  destruction 
was  needed  for  political  purposes,  that  is  the  long  and  short  of 
it  to  the  average  citizen.  And  the  ignorant,  immature,  foolish 
and  unworthy  language  used  by  some  of  the  Senators!  Yes,  the 
American  people  will  remember  it  all,  by  and  by,  if  not  at 
once. 

The  King  had  been  busy  with  caginet-meetings  these  days, 
days,  but  was  gracious  enough  anyway  to  allow  me  a  brief 
audience,  which  I,  of  course,  appreciated  very  much.  He  well 
remembered  Bethany  College.  His  IMajesty  has  been  the  friend 
of  that  Western  Institution  for  many  years,  and  our  gratitude, 
which  I  personally  expressed,  is  deep  and  sincere. 

Oh,  how  King  Oscar  loves  dear,  old  Sweden.  He  asked 
many  questions  in  a  hurry  concerning  my  impression  of  the  con- 
ditions obtaining  in  his  kingdom  in  general,  and  about  the  great 
Exposition  at  Stockholm.  One  expression  of  His  Majesty  I 
will  never  forget.  It  is  so  characteristic  of  him  and  his  reign. 
"Here  I  live  in  peace  and  joy  with  my  people." 

One  cloud  remains.  Bjornstjerne-Bj5rnson  and  others  in 
Norway  persist  in  keeping  up  a  continued  agitation  in  that  beau- 
tiful sister-country.  B.  B.  and  his  associates  are  to  me  the  most 
ungrateful,  big-headed  and  near-sighted  politicians  imaginable. 
The  end  is  not  yet,  and  no  one  can  say  what  it  will  be.  What 
would  be  best,  a  stranger  sees  with  small  effort,  it  seems. 

Carlsten  is  the  fortress  of  Marstrand.  It  was  not  built  yes- 
terday. In  1230  the  foundations  were  laid.  In  1682  it  was  com- 
pleted. The  walls  of  the  great  tower  are  thirty  feet  thick.  We 
ascended  the  tower,  172  steps,  and  were  repaid  by  a  magnificent 
view  of  the  surroundings.  We  walked  among  the  former  prison 
cells,  traversed  an  underground  passage  into  the  chapel  of  the 
fortress,  and  withal  lived  in  the  ages  gone  by  for  an  hour  with 
much  interest  and  to  our  great  enjoyment.  The  fortress  is  not 
used  in  its  original  capacity  any  longer. 

There  stands  the  King,  the  Peace-Monarch,  on  the  shore,  as 
our  steamer  leaves  land,  waving  good-bye  to  his  three  cabinet- 

606 


members  on  board,  and  to  all  and  everyone  of  the  passengers  in 
general. 

^  Long  live  King  Oscar,  and  many  well-wishes  for  his  happy 
reign  and  kingdom! 

While  the  fast-going  steamer  speeds  towards  the  wealthy 
and  handsome  city  of  Gothenburg,  I  beg  leave  to  relate  to  my 
friends  in  America  what  power  is  vested  in  the  King  of  Sweden. 
They  will  certainly  be  surprised  to  learn  how  circumscribed  by 
law  that  constitutional  power  is. 

The  following  excerpt  is  made  by  a  fully  competent  person: 

The   King. 

7.  The  King's  (the  government's)  public  duties  are  given  in 
the  rules  of  government  No.  16,  according  to  which  the  King, 
among  other  things,  has  to: 

Strengthen  and  further  truth  and  justice,  prevent  and  forbid 
iniquity  and  injustice; 

Not  to  deprive  or  cause  anyone  to  be  deprived  of  life,  honor, 
personal  liberty,  and  welfare,  without  that  he  be  lawfully  con- 
victed and  sentenced; 

Not  to  deprive  or  cause  anyone  to  be  deprived  of  real  estate 
or  personal  estate,  without  investigation  and  judgment,  in  the 
manner  in  which  the  laws  of  Sweden  prescribe; 

Not  to  coerce  or  cause  to  be  coerced  anyone's  conviction  of 
conscience,  but  to  protect  each  at  the  free  exercise  of  his  religion, 
unless  the  peace  of  the  community  thereby  is  molested  or  public 
scandal  caused. 

The  King  takes  the  oath  in  the  privy  council  that  he  will 
literally  adhere  to  the  rules  of  government,  the  acts  of  the  con- 
stitutional laws,  common  laws  and  legal  statutes. 

The  King's  Royal  Prerogatives. 

The  King  possesses  the  right  of  decision  in  the  government 
after  the  advice  of  the  privy-counselors  has  been  taken.  On 
rendering  decisions  at  least  three  cabinet  ministers  must  be  pres- 
ent, and  in  more  important  cases  all  the  members  of  the  priv\- 
council. 

Matters  which  concern  the  relation  of  the  realm  to  foreign 
powers,  appointing  ambassadors  and  other  officials  at  the  lega- 
tions abroad  the  King  decides,  after  hearing  the  minister  of 
foreign  afifairs,  the  prime  minister,  and  one  more  of  the  privy- 

607 


counselors.     One  member  of  the  Norwegian  privy-council  is  also 
called  in. 

The  King  can  declare  war  and  conclude  peace  after  having 
heard  the  privy-council. 

In  the  King  is  vested  the  supreme  command  of  the  army  and 
navy,  and  the  questions  of  authority  which  fall  to  him  in  this 
respect,  the  King  decides,  after  the  respective  ministers  of  war 
or  navy  have  given  their  opinion,  without  hearing  the  privy- 
council. 

The  King  possesses  two  votes  in  the  supreme  court,  whose 
judgments  are  rendered  in  the  King's  name,  and  require  his  sig- 
nature. 

In  criminal  cases  the  King  possesses  the  power  of  pardon- 
ing, reducing  life-sentence,  and  restituting  civil  rights,  and  prop- 
erty forfeited  to  the  crow^n,  after  the  supreme  court  and  the  privy- 
counselors  have  given  their  opinion  in  the  matter. 

The  King  stands  at  the  head  of  the  entire  state-economy.  He 
is  also  "summus  episcopus,"  that  is,  supreme  bishop,  or  the  head 
of  the  ecclesiastical  administration.  At  the  privy-council  he  has 
to  appoint  the  majority  of  the  higher  state-ofificials,  and  also 
several  of  lower  degrees. 

When  the  King  finds  that  the  welfare  of  the  realm  demands 
it,  he  can  dismiss  those  who  hold  positions  of  public  trust. 

The  King  has  the  right  to  grant  Swedish  citizenship  to  any 
foreigner  if  he  is  of  good  repute,  has  completed  his  21st  year,  has 
lived  three  years  in  the  land,  and  can  maintain  himself. 

With  regard  to  the  legislature  the  King  has  absolute  veto, 
that  is,  full  right  to  say  no  to  the  decision  of  the  Diet.  On 
the  other  hand  the  Diet  possesses  similar  veto  against  the  King. 

The  issuance  of  decrees,  or  laws  and  statutes  which  concern 
the  public  economy  of  the  realm,  and  regulations  for  public  in- 
stitutions the  King  alone  decides.  The  Diet  has  a  right  to  ex- 
press its  wishes  as  regards  the  matter. 

The  King  appoints  the  speakers  for  each  of  the  two  chambers 
of  the  Diet. 

The  King  can  convene  or  dissolve  an  extra  session  of  the  Diet, 
when  it  seems  fit  to  him,  and  he  can  dissolve  the  ordinary  ses- 
sion of  the  Diet  when  it  has  been  assembled  during  four  months. 
He  can  dissolve  either  or  both  chambers  of  the  Diet,  and  order 
new  elections.  He  can  open  and  close  the  Diet  in  person,  but 
must  not  be  present  at  their  sessions. 

608 


CHAPTER  XLVI. 

A  Few  Hours  in  Gothenburg. 

This  heading  sounds  unnatural  and  unjust.  A  tourist  ought 
not  to  act  that  way.  To  stay  weeks  in  Stockhohn  and  only  a 
few  hours  in  Gothenburg  is  not  excusable  except  when  there  is 
an  exhibition  in  the  capital  and  the  tourist  is  patronizing  a  steam- 
boat company  that  compels  the  traveler  to  wait  several  days  in 
England  for  an  Atlantic  steamer. 

I  liked  the  Allen  Line,  but  this  arrangement  did  in  no  wa_y 
suit  my  taste. 

Gothenburg  is  the  great  commercial  city  of  Sweden,  that 
much  you  notice  as  soon  as  you  enter  it.  Here  money  is  hon- 
ored to  the  same  degree  as  in  America.  The  people  in  this  city 
show  a  fine  appreciation  of  both  silver  and  gold,  wishing  to 
come  in  possession  of  the  metals  in  unlimited  quantities.  To 
me  the  little,  cheerful  and  wide-awake  city  appeared  much  more 
beautiful  now  than  seven  years  ago.  It  is  remarkably  well-built 
and  looks  solid.  Pardon  me  if  I  say  that  I,  as  an  American,  fell 
in  love  with  Gothenburg  this  time.  Should  the  improvements 
and  additions  to  the  city  go  on  at  this  rate  for  some  time  to 
come  it  will  soon  assume  the  appearance  of  a  metropolis. 

I  had  many  traveling  cares  on  my  brain  this  tunc.  It  is 
always  connected  with  a  great  deal  more  trouble  to  journey  home 
again  than  to  go  away.  So  your  humble  servant  at  least  has 
found  it. 

Mr.  I,undberg,  the  accommodating  agent  of  the  Allan  Line, 
placed  himself  at  my  service  in  many  ways,  for  which  I  felt  grate- 
ful. 

It  was,  so  to  say,  a  foregone  conclusion  that  we  should  meet 
many  Swedish-Americans  in  this  city. 

At  about  noon  the  second  day  wc  went  down  to  the  harbor 

609 


to  say  good-bye  to  Dr.  Bersell,  Mrs.  Lund  and  Pastor  Lund- 
quist.  "Bon  voyage,  Andrew  and  Edda!  We  others  will  soon 
join  you  on  the  other  side." 

At  the  evening  we  were  the  guests  of  Mr.  Rodhes  and  Pastor 
Stenvall.  There  we  met  Rector  Palmgren  and  other  friends. 
On  my  way  thither  I  was  overtaken  by  a  sudden  thunder  storm, 
and  I  must  say  that  the  equal  of  it  in  force  and  grandeur  is 
seldom  seen  even  in  America. 

We  talked  about  many  things  that  evening.  A  certain  \a.dy 
in  the  company  did  not  like  America,  and  in  that  she,  of  course, 
differed  with  us  Swedish-Americans,  who  defended  our  side  of 
the  subject  with  all  our  eloquence. 

After  this  the  religious  congress  in  Stockholm  was  brought 
up  for  discussion.  In  our  company  the  mere  thought  of  such 
a  congress  was  rather  unpopular.  Christianity  is  a  revealed  re- 
ligion, and  knows  no  competitors.  No  Christian  can  or  wnll  be 
impartial  to  Christianity.  Some  in  our  little  circle  were  much 
astonished  to  see  men  in  high  positions  within  the  State-Chruch 
participate  in  this  congress.  Concerning  the  opinion  of  the  con- 
gress in  general  I  now  take  the  liberty  to  reproduce  what  my 
school  and  traveling  companion,  the  Knight  of  the  Order  of  the 
North-Star,  etc..  Pastor  Abrahamson,  says  in  "Fosterlandet." 
He  writes: 

"The  much  talked  of  religious  congress  was  held  from  Aug. 
31st  to  Sept.  4th.  It  commenced  with  a  sermon  in  Storkyrkan, 
and  the  preacher  was  Canon  Personne  from  Linkoping,  while  the 
sermon,  which  treated  of  the  forniatory  principle  of  our  church, 
that  is  the  supreme  authority  of  the  word  of  God  in  al!  questions 
concerning  faith,  constituted  an  able  and  eloquent  Lutheran 
testimony  in  this  important  case.  The  beginning  of  the  con- 
gress, consequently  made  a  very  good  impression  on  all  who 
have  their  greatest  treasure  in  the  word  of  the  Lord.  The  sub- 
sequent sessions  of  the  congress  were  held  in  Riddarhuset  and, 
as  I  was  so  situated,  I  attended  almost  all  of  them. 

Regarding  this  congress  you  are  compelled  to  ask:  "What  was 
the  use  of  it?  What  are  the  existing  needs  that  made  it  neces- 
sary?" The  first  answer  must  be  that  it  was  not  brought  about 
by  the  representative  men  of  the  Swedish  Church.  If  the  matter 
had  depended  on  them  there  would  have  been  no  congress. 
Some  very  prominent  clerymen  told  me  that  the  interests  of  the 
church  could  be  handled  better  at  the  general  church-councils 

610 


and  the  common  ministerial  meetings  than  at  a  congress  of  this 
nature,  and  hence  they  were  opposed  to  it.  Xo,  the  congress 
was  the  creation  of  the  modern  Bible-critics,  and  no  wonder  then 
that  it  was  looked  upon  with  a  good  deal  of  suspicion  by  the 
Christians  of  our  native  land.  But  what  was  to  be  done  when 
it  could  not  be  prevented?  And,  had  the  true  friends  of  the 
church  any  duties  to  perform  with  regard  to  it?  Many  of  them 
decided  to  be  present  in  order  to  counteract  the  tendency  in 
the  Ritchlian  direction.  It  was  on  this  account  that  many  older 
clergymen  who  had  opposed  the  holding  of  the  congress  expressed 
themselves  satisfied  with  Bishop  Scheele  as  its  president,  though 
he  also  was  against  it,  his  motive  for  participation  being  well 
known.  And  by  the  same  motive  other  earnest  clergymen  who 
attended  were  actuated,  such,  for  instance,  as  Prof.  Rudin  and 
others.  The  bishop  accepted,  too,  the  presidency  only  on  the 
express  condition  to  be  allowed  full  freedom  to  conduct  the  pro- 
ceedings according  to  his  own  judgment,  and  to  correct  anything 
by  him  deemed  wrong. 

The  lectures  delivered  were  not  at  all  what  I  expected  them 
to  be.  Max  IMueller's  speech  surprised  me  the  most.  It  did 
not  meet  the  expectations  either  as  to  style  or  contents,  and  ■ 
hence  it  elicited  no  discussion.  Some  speeches  were  very  good. 
In  one  speech  the  modern  scepticism  was  pictured  in  clear  and 
vivid  light,  but  it  was  met  by  Prof.  Rudin  and  other  members 
with  the  most  powerful  and  eloquent  testimonies  for  the  word  of 
God.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  their  replies  will  be  permitted  to  ac- 
company the  speech  in  the  reports  of  the  congress. 

What  was  gained  by  this  congress?  It  was  said  that  the 
ulterior  end  of  it  was  to  show  the  results  of  scientific  research 
in  relation  to  the  Bible,  but  I  do  not  believe  that  any  such  end 
was  accomplished.  And  what  did  they  then  accomplish?  That 
the  future  will  have  to  show.  Much  good,  I  hardly  think,  will 
accrue;  and  if  it  does  not  turn  out  much  else  instead  we  have, 
next  to  God's  grace,  the  weakness  of  the  "progressive  theologi- 
ans" and  the  strength  and  vigilance  of  the  president  and  others 
to  thank  for  that.  It  was  noticeable  that  the  public  took  very 
little  interest  in  the  proceedings,  as  most  of  the  sessions  were  not 
attended  by  more  than  could  well  be  accommodated  in  half  the 
space  of  the  building." 

The  next  day  we  viewed  a  part  of  the  splendid  city.  Some 
of  the  members  of  our  company  had  several  days  at  their  disposal. 

613 


How  filthy  Hull  and  Liverpool  look  when  you  arrive  there 
direct  from  the  clean  and  cheerful  Gothenburg. 

At  the  hotel  we  were  paid  a  visit  by,  among  others,  the  asso- 
ciate editor  of  Goteborg's  Aftonblad  (The  Evening  News  of 
Gothenburg),  Mr.  Elander,  a  Swedish-American.  Thanks  for 
the  visit  and  the  papers! 

After  a  short  call  on  relations  to  some  Lindsborg  friends 
we  embarked  at  i  o'clock  p.  m.  on  the  steamer  Ariosto,  and  thus 
our  visit  to  Sweden  terminated  this  tim'e. 

Thanks  for  the  flowers!     Thanks  for  all! 


614 


CHAPTER  XLVn. 

King  Oscar's  Jubilee. 

Oscar  II.  had  been  King  of  Sweden  twenty-five  years  tlie  i8tli 
of  September-,  1897,  and  this  occasion  was  duly  celebrated  by  a 
jubilee  in  Sweden,  and  everywhere  else  where  the  Swedish  tongue 
if.  spoken  and  Swedish  hearts  are  beating.  For  the  fame  of 
this  king  has  gone  far,  and  his  name  as  well  as  himself  is  loved 
and  revered  everywhere.  What  he  is  and  what  he  has  been  for 
his  native  land  and  its  people  cannot  properly  and  adequately 
be  described  in  this  book,  the  purpose  of  which  is  quite  a  different 
one  besides.  However,  the  festivities  witnessed  all  over  the 
world  in  honor  of  King  Oscar  show  beyond  doubt  that  he  is 
considered  and  respected  as  one  of  the  superior  men  of  his  time. 
Let  us  briefly  review  King  Oscar's  jubilee  as  it  occurred  in 
Sweden  and  elsewhere. 

In  Sweden,  Stockholm  w-as  of  course  the  chief  place  for  the 
festivities,  which  assumed  the  greatest  splendor  there.  The 
solemnities  lasted  two  whole  days  in  that  capital,  from  September 
17th  to  September  19th,  though  there  were  echoes  of  them  ex- 
tending into  the  following  week.  The  celebration  began  with  a 
divine  service  in  commemoration  of  Charles  X\\  It  was  a 
beautiful  thought  of  the  living  king  thus  to  remember  the  dead 
brother  w-ho  was  his  predecessor  on  the  throne.  "The  popular 
king,"  as  Charles  was  called,  is  living  still  in  the  hearts  of  the 
people,  though  25  years  have  fled  since  he  quitted  his  mortal 
habitation.  He  will  never  be  forgotten,  and  therefore  the  act 
of  Oscar  in  this  case  is  understood  and  appreciated.  At  the 
memorial  service,  w'hich  was  held  in  the  Church  of  Riddar- 
holmen,  where  all  trophies  and  other  dear  things  of  the  historical 
past  are  preserved,  the  elite  of  the  nation  had  gathered  on  this 
occasion — court,  army,  congress,  church,  science,  everything  of 

615 


this  kind  being  represented.  The  poet  Carl  Snoilsky  had  written 
the  cantal  that  was  sung,  and  Bishop  von  Scheele  preached  the 
sermon. 

Among  royal  personages  who  at  the  festivity  represented 
foreign  countries  were  the  crown  prince  and  crown  princess  of 
Denmark,  and  also  the  Princess  Thyra  of  the  same  country; 
Prince  Fredrik  Leopold  of  Prussia;  the  Duke  Regent  Johan 
Albrecht  of  Mechlenburg-Schwerin,  the  Grand  Duke  of  Saxe- 
Weimar,  the  Prince  and  Princess  Waldeck-Pyrmont.  the  Grand 
Duke  Constantin  of  Russia,  the  Arch  Duke  Eugene  of  Austria, 
the  Duke  of  Aosta,  Prince  Christian  of  Schlesvig-Holstein. 
Prince  Ruprecht  of  Bavaria,  Prince  Chira  of  Siam,  and  many 
others,  not  to  forget  the  Kings  of  Roumania,of  Sachsen,  and  of 
Greece,  besides  the  Sultan  of  Turkey,  represented  by  extraor- 
dinary ambassadors.  Congratulations  were  also  delivered  by  the 
republics  Paraguay  and  Bolivia  through  their  consuls. 

The  homage  of  the  learned  of  Europe  was  especially  grand. 
Dressed  in  the  uniform  of  the  Academy  of  Science  and  sur- 
rounded by  the  foremost  among  the  scientists  of  his  land,  the  king 
received  the  deputies  from  the  foreign  universities,  all  appearing 
in  togas  or  the  uniforms  of  their  respective  societies.  Tlie  Uni- 
versities of  \'ienna,  Lcyden,  Miinchen,  Bologna,  Cambridge,  Ox- 
ford, and  Strassburg  delivered  to  the  king,  through  their  repre- 
sentatives, artistically  embellished  diplomas,  conferring  the  title 
of  doctor  and  honorary  membership.  The  speeches  accompany- 
ing the  diplomas  were  answered  by  the  king  in  French.  The 
University  of  St.  Petersburg  and  the  Royal  Academy  of  Art  and 
Science  in  Berlin  both  made  King  Oscar  an  honorary  member. 
Never  before  has  a  king  received  so  many  and  so  great  marks 
of  distinction  at  one  time. 

Other  committees  and  delegates  who  had  come  to  pay  the 
king  their  respects  were  very  many  and  unusually  brilliant.  I 
record  the  following:  The  court  and  staff  of  the  king,  the  Swed- 
ish and  the  Norwegian  state  councils,  Knights  of  the  Order  of  the 
Seraphim,  the  two  chambers  of  congress,  directors  of  the  state 
book  and  treasury  department,  the  governors  of  the  provinces, 
the  provincial  councils,  city  councils  of  Stockholm,  Gothenburg, 
Malmo,  Norrkoping  and  Gefle  economical  societies,  the  supreme 
court,  the  Swedish  ministers  to  foreign  courts,  colleges  and  other 
governmental  departments, the  mayors  of  Stockholm  and  Gothen- 
burg, generals,  colonels,  admirals  and  commodores,  the  arch- 

6i6 


bishop  (who  spoke  for  the  clergy,  expressing  the  wish  that  the 
state  church  long  may  retain  its  summus  episcopus,  at  which 
utterance  the  king,  to  whom  the  allusion  was  made,  stepped  down 
from  his  elevation  and  embraced  the  aged  prelate),  the  directors 
of  the  Riddarhuset  (the  house  of  Nobles),  the  Universities  of 
Upsala  and  Lund,  Caroline  Institute,  the  High  Schools  of  Stock- 
holm and  Gothenburg,  academies  and  learned  societies,  the 
iNlasonic  order,  the  central  committee  of  the  exposition,  deputies 
from  numerous  cities,  the  Numismatic  Society  of  Sweden,  the  So- 
ciety of  the  Red  Cross  of  Sweden,  the  Swedish  Society  of  Physi- 
cians, the  Society  of  Druggists,  the  Society  of  Teachers,  the  gen- 
eral Society  of  Popular  Teachers,  the  Swedish  Association  of 
Actors,  the  Bookkeepers'  Association,  the  Manufacturers'  Asso- 
ciation of  Stockholm,  the  Mechanics'  Society  of  Stockholm, 
similar  societies  of  the  cities  of  Gothenburg  and  Norrkoping. 
the  Swedish  Association  of  Authors,  the  Artists'  Society  of 
Sweden,  the  Lithographic  Institute,  the  Swedish  Hunters'  Asso- 
ciation, the  Yachting  Society  of  Sweden,  the  Swinmiers  Society 
of  Stockholm,  the  Young  Men's  Christian  Association  (led  by 
Prince  Bernadotte),  the  Swedish  Missionary  Society,  the  Metho- 
dist Episcopal  Church,  the  Augustana  Synod,  led  by  Rev. 
Sward,  the  Hebrew  Congregation,  the  Swedish  Sharpshooters, 
the  Anthropological  and  Geographical  Society,  the  Technological 
Society,  the  National  Lodge  of  Good  Templars,  the  Society : 
Friends  of  the  Poor,  Stockholm's  Chess  Players'  Society,  the 
Society:  Assurance  Association  of  Laborers,  the  Police  Corps  of 
Stockholm,  the  Agrarian  Association  of  Sweden,  the  Dentists 
Society  and  the  Society  of  Subordinate  Army  Officers. 

The  speech  in  which  the  Augustana  Synod,  represented  by 
Dr.  Sward,  expressed  its  congratulations,  was  this: 

"Your  Majesty!  As  a  representative  of  the  Augustana  Synod 
and  its  college  at  Rock  Island  in  the  United  States  of  America, 
(which  Synod  now  consists  of  about  200,000  members,  the  ma- 
jority of  whom  were  born  and  raised  in  Sweden),  I  beg  reverently 
to  express  on  this  significant  occasion,  and  in  the  name  of  that 
Synod,  the  most  heartfelt  gratitude,  coupled  with  the  sincerest 
wishes  of  future  success  for  your  majesty.  I  assure  your  majesty 
that  our  church  heartily  rejoices  over  the  peaceful  and  successful 
reign  you,  by  the  grace  of  God,  have  given  your  people  these 
twenty-five  years,  a  time  full  of  blessings  for  the  land  and  its 
inhabitants,  blessings,  be  it  further  said,  that  even  we  in  the  far 

617 


off  West  have  felt  in  the  highest  degree.  IMost  reverently  we 
now  pray  that  your  majesty  will,  henceforth  as  hitherto,  kindly 
remember  our  Lutheran  church  in  North  America.  I  am  also 
requested  to  deliver  to  your  majesty  an  address,  but  as  that  has 
been  delayed  in  England,  I  have  to  beg  that  you  graciously  re- 
ceive it  when  it  arrives.  (This  address  arrived  immediately  after 
the  close  of  the  audience.)  I  wish  and  pray  that  God's  choicest 
blessings  may  rest  upon  your  majesty  and  the  whole  royal  house, 
now  and  forever." 

The  king  replied  as  follows: 

"I  thank  you  from  my  heart  for  the  w'ords  you  have  expressed 
on  behalf  of  the  Augustana  Synod.  Though  you  all  live  far 
away  from  your  native  land  you  are  not  distant  from  my  thought 
and  my  well  wishings.  The  bonds  uniting  those  of  a  common 
origin  and  a  common  faith  reach  further  than  the  stretches  over 
which  the  Atlantic  billows  are  surging." 

The  Bethany  College  in  Lindsborg,  Kansas,  which  belongs  to 
the  Kansas  conference  of  the  Augustana  Synod,  did  also  verbally, 
through  Pastor  J.  Scleen  and  Dr.  E.  Floren,  express  cordial 
congratulations,  to  which  the  king  replied. 

A  delegation  of  ladies,  representing  benevolent  societies,  paid 
its  respects  to  the  queen  who  has  always  manifested  a  warm 
Christian  interest  for  the  exercise  of  true  Christian  charity  of  all 
kinds. 

Besides  this  personal  homage  paid  the  king  he  received  a 
great  number  of  addresses  and  gifts  from  abroad  as  well  as  from 
his  own  subjects.  Among  the  latter  I  may  mention  the  follow- 
ing: Addresses  from  the  Historical,  Antiquity  and  Literary 
Academies  (a  poem  of  homage  in  Latin),  the  Musical  Academy, 
the  Universities  and  the  High  Schools,  the  General  Artists'  So- 
ciety, the  Young  Men's  Christian  Association,  the  Humanitarian 
Scientific  Society  in  Upsala,  the  Red  Cross,  the  Military  Scientific 
Academy,  gifts  and  addresses  from  the  relatives  of  the  King  of 
Sweden  (a  chandelier  of  silver),  the  court  departments  (a  so-called 
nautilus  bowl  set  with  jewels),  the  Lithographic  Institute  of  the 
general  staff  (splendid  lithographical  pictures),  the  Swedish  Acad- 
emy (its  large  gold  medal),  the  members  of  the  Stockholm  com- 
mon council  (a  fine  picture  worked  in  silver  and  set  with  gold, 
pearls  and  diamonds,  and  besides  the  promise  of  200,000  crowns 
for  a  hospital  for  consumptives),  from  the  ladies  of  Halmstad 
a  table  set  of  flowers.     By  a  national  subscription  has  been  col- 

618  i 


lected  a  jubilee  fund  of  2,200,000  crowns,  which  fund  shall,  in 
accordance  with  the  will  of  the  king,  be  employed  for  combating 
the  ravages  of  tuberculosis. 

Of  the  foreign  gifts  and  addresses  I  will  mention  these: 
The  Swedish  Americans,  a  splendid  silver  vase  bearing  some 
Swedish-American  emblems.  The  design  was  made  by  Mr. 
Charles  Friberg.  This  gift,  accompanied  by  an  e.xcellent  address, 
was  delivered  to  the  king  by  Mr.  Ferguson,  the  .\merican  min- 
ister in  Stockholm;  the  Augustana  synod,  an  address,  richly  got- 
ten up  and  signed  by  leading  ministers  and  laymen  of  the 
synod;  the  Bethany  College,  a  similar  address;  the 
Scandinavians  of  Utah  a  bo.x  of  ony.x,  containing  the  Mormons' 
book  in  handsome  binding;  the  professor  of  languages  and  elo- 
quence, Mr.  Frank  Gustafson  of  Helsingfors,  a  latin  poem 
dedicated  to  the  only  crowned  scholar  in  Latin;  Swedes  in  Rio 
Janiro  a  large  picture  with  panoramic  views  of  the  pretty  city; 
the  planter.  Major  Novas,  in  Brazil,  a  load  of  the  best  coffee,  etc. 
Through  the  Countess  Torborg-Rappe,  from  the  Swedish- Amer- 
ican Women's  Equality  Society  fin  which  Mrs.  Emmy  Evald  is 
president)  ,  an  extraordinarily  fine  address. 

Saturday,  September  i8th,  was  the  festal  day  proper.  A 
solemn  Te  Deum  was  then  held  in  the  palace  chapel,  being  a 
Thanksgiving  service,  to  which  the  king  had  given  the  members 
of  his  family  special  invitation,  also  the  royal  guests  present,  the 
court  members  and  ministers  of  state,  the  members  of  congress, 
the  most  important  state  officials,  and  the  foreign  deputies.  The 
sermon  was  delivered  by  the  chief  court  chaplain.  Bishop  Billing, 
who  preached  earnestly  and  eloquently  on  the  text  taken  from 
Jeremiah,  chap.  29,  verses  1-2.  The  service  closed  with  the  sing- 
\n<y  of  psalm  2y2  of  the  Sweuicsh  hymnal,  while  the  cannons 
thundered  from  all  vessels  anchored  in  the  harbor  and  at  the 
levee.  An  impressive  scene  was  witnessed  at  the  termination  of 
the  solemnities,  when  the  King  and  the  Queen  effectively  em- 
braced their  sons  and  kissed  them. 

Otherwise  the  jubilee  was  celebrated  by  illumination,  singing, 
festive  dinners,  promenades  in  carriages,  torch-light  proces.-ions, 
a.  s.  o.  The  illumination  was  everywhere  splendid  and  wonder- 
fully brilliant  in  some  places.  Never  before  had  Stockholm  been 
seen  in  such  an  ocean  of  light,  and  never  will  the  inhabitants  of 
the  city  forget  the  blinding  glare  of  flames  conjured  forth  on  the 
shores  of  Lake  Miilar,  in  homage  of  the  royal  couple  that  have 

619 


shed  so  much  splendor  over  Sweden  before  the  other  nations. 
The  royal  cortege,  consisting  of  about  forty  vehicles,  proceeded 
through  the  radiant  streets,  the  object  of  grand  ovations  and 
showers  of  flowers,  music,  cheers,  and  storms  of  jubilant  exclama- 
tions. When  was  a  king  paid  such  homage  by  his  people?  And 
the  torch-light  procession!  A  line  of  1,500  singers,  headed  by 
the  white-capped  students  of  Upsala,  a  grand  parade,  with  torches 
and  lights  in  the  hands  and  the  fire  of  enthusiasm  in  their  young 
hearts!  Six  abreast,  the  procession  is  slowly  crawling  along  like 
serpents  of  fire  in  the  direction  of  the  palace.  Outside  the  south- 
ern vault  of  the  palace  the  torches  are  extinguished.  A  march  is 
played;  the  ranks  arrange  themselves  in  the  spacious  court 
yard;  the  gigantic  chorus  sings  for  the  king,  breathing  its  senti- 
ments in  the  national  hymn  "StillaSkuggor,"  and  the  monarch, 
with  signs  of  emotion  in  his  features,  stands  at  a  window  in  the 
palace,  crying,  "thanks,  my  friends,  thanks  to  you  all."  Then 
the  cries  of  long  live  the  king  grow  stronger  and  clearer,  where- 
upon the  crowd  departs,  singing  with  thrilling  effect  "D^nen 
liksom  ^skan,  broder,  hogt  var  fosterlandska  sang  (sound  as 
thunder  does,  our  brothers,  now,  our  patriotic  lay),  the  king  re- 
maining in  his  position,  deeply  sunk  in  a  musing,  dreaming  state 
of  mind. 

The  marshal,  Frederick  von  Essen,  said  of  the  homage  a  few- 
days  later,  when  he  met  the  students  in  Upsala  and  tendered 
them  the  thanks  of  the  king,  that  he,  the  king,  had  been  very 
deeply  touched  by  the  demonstration,  no  other  part  of  the  festivi- 
ties having  made  such  a  deep  impression  upon  him.  The  most 
profound  effect  was  visible  when  a  thousand  voices  sang  these 
farewell  words: 

"Azure  vaults  with  the  star  hosts  teeming, 
Let  the  lights  of  our  souls  be  gleaming, 
Let  us  of  future  bliss  be  dreaming, 
When  it  draws  near  the  eventide." 

The  general  musical  festivities  must  not  be  forgotten,  nay, 
they  cannot  be  forgotten  by  any  one  who  was  present  at  them.  A 
monster  chorus  of  the  foremost  singers  of  Sweden,  where  every 
member  knew  and  felt  the  power  of  song!  A  gigantic  concert 
where  every  number  on  the  program  was  executed  with  youthful 
ardor!  Such  was  the  first  general  musical  festivity  of  the  jubilee, 
performed  in  the  music  hall  at  Fredrikshof.     Never  before  have 

620 


GOTHENBURG:      1.      THE   GRAND  THEATER.      2.      ART  MUSEUM. 
3.      THE   kino's  gate   AVENUE. 


GOTHENBURG  :      1    NOUTn    AXD   .SOUTH   HARBOR   STREETS. 

2.      PART   OF  THE   HARBOR,  WITH   THE  CUSTOM    HOUSE. 

3.      CITY   HALL   AND   THE  SQUARE  OF  GUSTAVUS   ADOLPHUS. 


any  number  of  singers  sung  with  such  zest  and  spirit  the 
national  hymn,  "Ur  Svenska  hjertans  djup  en  ging"  (Out  of 
our  Swedish  hearts  we  send).  Other  popular  songs,  such  as 
"Hor  oss,  Svea,"  "Jag  vet  ett  land,"  "O,  Gud  som  styrer," 
"Harliga  land,"  "Frihet  bor  i  norden,"  "Du  ganla,  du  friska.  du 
fjellhoga  nord,"  were  rendered  with  equal  force  and  eflfect.  And 
the  public  that  filled  the  large  hall  to  the  uttermost  of  its  capacity, 
the  royal  personages,  young  and  old,  big  and  small,  applauded 
repeatedly  until  you  wondered  if  there  was  no  end  to  it;  the  1.500 
students  meanwhile  waving  their  white  handkerchiefs — snow- 
capped billows  on  a  white  sea.  And  the  king,  who  can  imagine 
what  he  felt  in  his  inner  heart,  where  he  stood  in  the  midst  of  a 
jubilant  throng,  and  the  object  of  such  loyal  enthusiasm? 

But  it  was  not  in  Stockholm  alone  the  jubilee  took  place. 
Everywhere  within  the  limits  of  Sweden,  in  cities  and  in  the  coun- 
try, church  services  and  festivities  were  witnessed,  temples,  halls, 
school  rooms  and  other  public  places  being  used  for  the  purpose 
of  expressing  by  words  and  deeds  the  sincere  joy  over  the  king's 
successful  reign  so  many  years.  Speeches,  music,  processions, 
torches  and  demonstrations  of  every  kind  were  on  the  programs 
throughout  the  country.  The  people  of  Sweden  were  simply  car- 
ried away  by  their  loyal  love  for  their  king  these  two  long-to-be- 
remembered  festive  days. 

This  jubilee  extended  far  beyond  the  boundaries  of  the  king's 
own  country,  for  it  was  celebrated  with  a  will  in  foreign  coun- 
tries. Norway,  being  a  part  of  his  own  domains,  came,  of  course, 
next  to  Sweden  in  real  enthusiasm.  In  Christiania,  the  capital 
of  that  country,  great  arrangements  had  been  made  for  the 
celebration  a  week  later  than  in  Sweden.  The  public  sermon  was 
preached  by  Bishop  Bang  in  the  Church  of  Our- Redeemer,  the 
text  being  Psalm  103,  vers.  1-2.  This  divine  urged  the  Nor- 
wegians to  rally  around  the  king  in  closed  ranks.  The  public 
buildings  in  the  city  were  richly  decorated,  the  illumination  bril- 
liant, and  the  popular  processions  grand.  The  audiences  were 
given  about  the  same  way  as  in  Sweden.  The  king  and  the  queen 
were  made  the  objects  of  a  continuous  jubilant  ovation  by  the 
masses  of  people  filling  streets,  squares  and  windows.  When  the 
king  after  a  speech  to  the  people  proposed  the  singing  of  the 
hvmn  "Ja  vi  elsker  dette  lande,"  and  having,  with  bared  head, 
joined  in  the  performance,  a  storm  of  wild  enthusiasm  broke  out 
among  the  assembled  thousands.    The  king  and  the  whole  royal 

625 


house  received  in  every  way  the  strongest  assurances  of  love  and 
loyahy.  One  correspondent  says:  "The  vast,  grand  and  impos- 
ing popular  demonstration  that  I  just  now  have  witnessed  is  a 
most  convincing  proof  of  the  fact  that  the  king's  power  rests  on 
a  broad  basis,  even  here  in  Norway,  and  that  the  nation  has  his 
cause  at  heart." 

In  Helsingfors,  Finland,  the  Swedish-Norwegian  guild,  and 
the  Swedish  Social  Club,  of  that  city,  celebrated  the  occasion. 
At  the  guild  Count  M.  Bjornstjerna  made  an  eloquent  speech. 
In  London  the  Scandinavians  spent  three  whole  days  in  merry- 
making, while  charge  d'affairs,    Th  von    Ditten,  the    legation 
Preacher   Palmer,   and   the   Norwegian,    Pastor   Barman,   con- 
tributed to  the  solemnities  with  eloquent  and  patriotic  ovations. 
In  the  Swedish  church  service  was  held.     Of  the  general  tone 
among  the  Scandinavians  the  Daily  Chronicle  says:     "Only  the 
presence  of  the  king  could  have  increased  the  enthusiasm  mani- 
fested by  Norwegians,  as  well  as  the  Swedes."     In  Berlin,  Ger- 
many, tile  Swedes  had  not  forgotten  King  Oscar's  jubilee     At  a 
tine  collation  on  the  19th  they  brought  him  their  homage,  the 
secretary  of  the  legation,  Mr.  Stromfelt,  firing  the  hearts  of  the 
Scandinavians  by   an   eloquent   speech.— In    Paris,   France,   the 
occasion  was  solemnized  by  the  Scandinavians  at  a  dinner  spiced 
by  songs  and  speeches.    In  St.  Petersburg  and  Moskwa,  Russia, 
and  in  other  places  the  Swedes  held  church  services  and  meet- 
ings.    Besides  jubilee  festivities  were  arranged  in  the  cities  of 
Liibeck,  Wismar,    Danzig,    Leipsig    (in    the    latter    place   the 
provincial  governor,  Johannes  Nilson,  delivered  the   oration, 
after  which  a  telegram  was  received  from  his  cousin,  the  great 
singer,  Christina  Nilson),  Vienna  and  Constantinople,  at  which 
place  the  Sultan  himself,  the  grand  vizir  and  minister  for  for- 
eign affairs  tendered  their  congratulations  by  representatives. 
Last,  but  not  least,  come  now  the  Swedes  in  America,  who 
in  the  most  unmistakable  way  manifested  their  love  for  the  old 
country  and  its  king.    Almost  in  every  place  where  Swedes  are 
found  in  any  large  number,  east,  west,  south  and  north,  did  thev 
celebrate  King  Oscar's  jubilee,  as  in  New  York,  Boston,  Philadel- 
phia. Chicago,  Minneapolis,  St.  Paul,  San  Francisco,  a.  s.  o.    The 
Augustana  Synod  especially  showed  unfeigned  and  sincere  affec- 
tion in  this  case  by  services  in  its  congregations,  and  the  schools 
at  Rock  Island,  St.  Peter  and  Lindsborg. 

Add  now  to  all  what  has  been  said  of  King  Oscar's  jubilee 

626 


that  he  durinc^  the  festal  days  received  400  telegrams  from  all 
parts  of  the  world,  and  it  is  easy  to  see  and  acknowledge  that  this 
homage  paid  this  aged  monarch  has  never  been  surpassed. 

The  king  has  expressed  his  gratitude  in  many  ways  to  those 
who  participated  in  the  jubilee  proceedings.  He  has  done  so  by 
special  letters;  through  the  mayor  of  the  capital,  Mr.  Tamm.  to 
the  people  of  the  city  and  the  police  for  their  exemplary  conduct: 
through  the  Marshal  von  Essen  to  his  beloved  people  for  their 
unanimous  homage,  and  through  the  minister  for  foreign  affairs 
to  all  the  Scandinavians  in  other  countries,  who  during  the  fes- 
tivities showed  him  and  the  queen  so  many  signs  of  precious 
affection  and  esteem.  This  last  acknowledgement,  which  is  of 
greatest  interest  to  us  Swedish-Americans,  is  as  follows: 

"Your  Excellency! 

From  the  legations  and  the  consulates  of  the  Union,  from 
Scandinavian  and  other  societies  in  foreign  countries,  from  pri- 
vate men  and  women  of  Swedish  and  Norwegian  birth  in  distant 
lands,  and  lastlv,  from  many  who  have  left  their  native  country 
for  good,  though  still  attached  to  it  by  bonds  of  love,  so  many 
evidences  of  affection  for  me  and  the  queen  have  these  days  come 
m  the  shape  of  letters,  telegrams,  addresses  and  gifts,  that  it  be-' 
comes  impossible  to  send  each  one  and  all  our  personal  thanks. 
T  therefore  request  your  excellency  to  communicate  to  all  who 
have  thus  given  us  joy  the  expressions  of  our  sincere  gratitude.    I 

am  yours  ever  with  favor, 

OSCAR. 

Besides  the  king  gladdened  the  hearts  of  many  of  his  faithful 
subjects  with  medals  and  stars  and  signs  of  different  orders  and 

degrees.  ^    ,      .   ,  .,       .      ... 

The  purpose  of  this  brief  description  of  the  jubdee  festivities 
is  to  show  that  the  King  of  Sweden  is  respected  all  the  world 
over,  and  that  Oscar  II.  is  beloved  by  his  people,  and  that  he 
holds  them  very  dear  in  his  heart. 

Foreign  papers  actually  tried  to  outdo  each  other  in  the 
praise  of  the  grandly  successful  jubilee  in  Sweden,  of  King  Oscar 
II  and  of  the  Scandinavian  people.  To  these  papers  belong  the 
Times  and  Daily  Chronicle  (London),  Hamburger  Xachnchten 
(Bismarck's  organ),  Berliner  Tageblatt.  Frankfurter  Zeitung, 
Vossische  Zeitung,  the  Cologn  Gazette  and  the  ^liinchen  Zcitung 
these  last  six  being  all  German.     Then  there  were  Le  Tempts 

627 


(France),  Nuova  Antologia  (Italy),  and  National-tidende  (Den- 
mark.) 

We  cannot  conclude  this  sketch  in  any  better  way  than  to 
quote  what  the  Vossische  Zeitung,  before  referred  to,  said  on 
the  occasion: 

"King  Oscar  of  Sweden  and  Norway  is  now  celebrating  his 
twenty-fifth  year  jubilee,  and  what  at  this  juncture  attracts  the 
greatest  attention  is  the  personality  of  the  monarch  himself. 
King  Oscar  is  one  of  the  most  sympathetic  of  contemporary 
rulers.  He  is  the  prince  of  peace  and  the  indefatigable  promoter 
of  art  and  science.  The  most  beautiful  termination  of  his  long 
and  prosperous  reign  would  be  such  a  settlement  of  the  Swedish- 
Norwegian  contest,  whereby  both  the  sister  nations  could  pro- 
cure permanent  harmony.  For  these  thinly  populated  and  long 
extending  countries  the  union  is  the  only  means  for  their  welfare. 
A  celebrated  Norwegian  popular  orator  and  poet  was  recently 
heard  to  sigh  for  "the  modern  ruler."  Well,  he  did  not  need 
to  seek  long  to  find  him.  Any  land  could  call  itself  blessed 
with  such  a  ruler  as  Sweden  and  Norway  have,  for  whom  the 
prosperity  of  the  people,  and  the  development  of  all  arts  and 
sciences  stood  as  the  highest  aim  of  his  duties  as  king.  May 
King  Oscar  on  these  days  receive  the  candid  congratulation  of 
this  Germany,  to  which  the  northern  countries  are  united  by  so 
many  sacred  ties!  May  the  prince  of  peace  on  the  thrones  of 
Sweden  and  Norway  be  granted  many  years  yet  to  rule!" 

To  this  last  wish  is  hereby  added  a  sincere  and  cordial:    So 
mote  it  be! 


628 


CHAPTER  XLVIIL 

Home  Again  • 

Home  again! 

Our  homeward  voyage  was  pleasant  enough,  though  the 
North  Sea,  always  unruly,  had  a  tendency  to  increase  our  already 
strong  love  for  the  solid  part  of  the  globe. 

Seasickness  is  indeed  nothing  to  laugh  at.  Oh,  how  miser- 
able the  victim  is!  Even  I  know  now  by  practical  experience  what 
it  is.  My  pride  as  a  tourist  has  vanished,  for,  while  prostrate  on 
the  deck,  I,  like  the  rest  of  the  passengers,  had  to  exclaim: 
"Ulrick!"     The  old  North  Sea  was  to  blame  for  the  whole  thing.. 

In  Liverpool  we  were  shown  much  kindness  by  the  agent  of 
the  x-Mlen  line,  Mr.  Ennis.  He  was  an  old  friend  of  the  late 
Colonel  Hans  Mattson,  and  related  how  he  once  surprised  him 
by  a  telegram  from  Skine,  ordering  places  for  700  passengers. 

Then  we  visited  the  Swedish  Sailors'  Home,  which  we  found 
very  inviting,  and  in  every  way  suited  for  its  purpose.  Among 
papers  found  there  was  our  own  beloved  "Augustana."  What 
we  then  felt  we  can  best  express  by  quoting  a  little  letter  sent  to 
the  editor,  and  inserted  in  "Augustana"  for  September  i6th: 

Dear  Augustana! 

"Today  some  of  us  made  a  visit  to  'Evangeliska  l-"o?terland- 
stiftelsens'  mission  for  sailors  in  this  great  seaport  cit\'.  It  was 
especially  agreeable  to  find,  among  other  conveniences,  a  large 
and  fine  reading  room,  comfortable  in  every  respect.  Just  think 
what  a  blessing  this  is  for  emigrants  and  sailors!  Let  us  not 
forget  our  own  immigrant  mission  in  New  York,  so  deserving  of 
our  encouragement,  and  in  need  ot  support. 

"Among  papers  from  America  we  found  Augustana,  IKni- 
landet  and  Missions  Vannen.  When  traveling  in  foreign  coun- 
tries papers  that  you  are  familiar  with  appear  to  you  like  old 

629 


friends  and  greetings  from  them.  It  is,  therefore,  very  good  and 
useful  to  supply  such  reading  and  mission  rooms  with  literature 
of  this  kind. 

A  pretty  little  church  or  chapel  is  attached  to  this  mission, 
and  services  are  held  five  times  a  week  for  the  sowing  of  the 
heavenly  seed  in  human  hearts. 

We  Augustanites  sat  down  at  once  and  perused  the  Augus- 
tana.  No  wonder  that  the  editor-in-chief  found  it  so  pleasant  in 
Vasa  while  on  his  visit  there,  for  it  is  a  really  agreeable  place, 
ascribable  in  no  small  degree  to  the  fact  that  our  friends.  Dr. 
Norelius  and  Reverend  Fremling,  reside  there. 

We  noticed  what  Dr.  Lindahl  said  about  the  minister's  cloak 
and  the  Luther  coat.  The  author  of  this  concurs  perfectly  in 
what  was  said.  In  the  first  named  garment  appears  only  a  part 
of  what  once  was  a  real  thing  to  wear,  while  the  Luther  coat 
undoubtedly  is  the  most  practical  and  useful,  and  also  the  most 
tasteful  garment  imaginable.  It  is  especially  suited  for  the 
American  summers,  besides  being  just  the  thing  that  could  in 
an  external  way  unite  us  to  the  Lutheran  church  in  general. 

But  how  good,  after  all,  that  costumes  and  ceremonies  do  not 
form  anv  part  of  the  essential  elements  of  the  church. 

And  how  well  we  relished  O.  O's  grand  utterances  about  the 
Swedish  language!  That  tongue  does  not  die  soon  in  America. 
It  shall  never  die  if  we  only  do  our  duty  to  it  and  to  ourselves. 
I  have  in  my  humble  way  for  years  defended  and  emphasized 
the  same  sentiments,  viz.:  this,  that  the  L'nited  States  is  the 
gainer  by  every  nationality  preserving  and  perpetuating  what- 
ever good  it  has  inherited  and  taken  with  it  to  these  shores. 
While  this  is  true  in  a  general  way.  I  hold  that  the  special  duty  of 
our  Swedish-American  schools  is  to  pay  all  possible  attention  to 
the  Swedish  language,  Swedish  literature  and  Swedish  histo'ry. 
English  comes  as  of  itself,  and  we  shall  never  need  to  be  deficient 
in  that  tongue.  Our  parents  do  not  make  their  sacrifices  to  our 
schools  for  nothing.  They  desire  that  these  institutions  shall 
preserve  our  Lutheran  faith,  and  our  Swedish  tongue,  and  it 
cannot  be  amiss  to  remind  all  those  concerned  of  this  once  in  a 
while. 

Pastor  Torell  touched  upon  a  very  important  subject,  but 
found,  as  it  appeared,  no  willing  listeners.  Anybody  is  able  to 
see  that  education  without  the  fear  of  God  and  Christianity  is 
nothing  more  than  heathenism  more  or  less  refined,  but  every- 

630 


body  will  not  look  at  the  matter  in  that  way,  for  otherwise  wc 
should  find  more  young  Swedish-Americans  attending  our 
Christian  colleges,  which  certainly  constitute  our  most  important 
mission.  Let  us  try  to  love  and  maintain  those  institutions  by 
all  means.  Hold  what  you  have,  is  the  command.  The  instttu- 
tions  we  have  are  the  gifts  of  God,  that  is  a  thing  we  all  agree 
about,  even  though  we  may  differ  as  to  the  way  we  shall  perform 
our  duty. 

These  lines  I  write  on  the  paper  belonging  to  the  Sailors'  Mis- 
sion. May  God  bless  its  work  in  every  possible  way!  Thanks 
for  the  hour  spent  in  the  reading  room ! 

In  our  company  are  Pastor  Tcngwald  and  his  wife.  Pastor 
Frost,  and  Pastor  Stenwall,  the  Professors  Sandzen.  Thorsten- 
berg,  Sellberg  and  our  newly  elected  teacher  in  drawing  and 
painting,  Carl  Gustafson— Lotave,  the  Brothers  Holmbom.  from 
Michigan;  Miss  Swenson,  from  Cheyenne;  Mrs.  Danielson, 
from  Topeka,  and  also  some  other  Swedes. 
Receive,  dear  Augustana,  our  greeting! 

Professor  Gustafson-Lotave  is  a  son  of  Smaland,  born  in  the 
city  of  Jonkoping.  and  he  seems  to  be  just  the  man  for  the  place 
he  is  to  fill.  He  has  a  good  general  education  and  has  spent  two 
years  in  technological  schools,  at  Stockholm,  and  also  two  terms 
as  a  pupil  of  Axel  Kulle.  Zorn  and  Richard  Berg,  besides  two 
years  in  the  best  art  schools  of  Paris.  He  is  also  sculptor,  wood 
engraj^-er  and  designer  in  clay.  He  has  sold  some  pictures  al- 
ready and  got  some  praise  from  the  public  journals.  His  fort 
is  figure  painting,  which  is  very  important  when  we  come  to  the 
question  of  altar  pictures,  for  which  orders  are  still  received  at 

Bethany  College. 

We  embark  this  afternoon  and  hope  by  the  grace  and 
protection  of  God  soon  to  land  hearty  and  well  in  our  own  coun- 
try. 

Dr.   Floren  had  to  remain  in  Sweden  at  least  one  month 

longer  on  account  of  his  broken  limb. 

Just  think  what  a  great  influence  a  paper  like  "Augustana"' 
exerts  on  our  countrymen.  May  its  circulation  be  more  and  more 
extended  and  the  biesings  conferred  by  it  greater  in  the  same 

measure. 

The  trip  across  the  water  went  well  enough.  But  twice  we 
were  thoroughly  terrified  by  the  failure  of  the  engines  to  con- 
tinue their  work.    The  feelings  at  such  mishaps  are  indescribable. 

631 


But  our  captain  was  a  prudent  and  conservative  man.  His 
adopted  motto  is:  "Better  a  day  late  than  not  to  get  there  at 
all."    Who  will  not  subscribe  to  such  a  wise  sentiment? 

The  St.  Lawrence  bay  and  the  river  with  the  same  name 
deserve  a  separate  chapter,  which  will  come  next  year,  if  not 
before. 

How  good  one  feels  to  be  home  in  his  native  land  once  more. 
We  got  there  after  having  passed  the  great  tunnel  at  Port  Huron. 
Through  smoke  and  dust,  the  W'orst  we  have  ever  experienced, 
and  with  a  speed  of  fifty  miles  an  hour  we  finally  arrived  late  in 
the  evening  to  the  incomparable  cosmopolitan  city  of  Chicago, 
only  to  stay  fifteen  minutes  before  continuing  westward. 

In  Kansas  City  we  remained  over  night.  In  the  evening  I 
had  the  opportunity  to  speak  of  my  traveling  impressions  before 
quite  a  large  audience.  They  commanded  me  to  use  the  English 
language,  which  I  did  with  great  pleasure.  The  request  for  this 
lecture  met  me  at  Liverpool,  demanding  an  immediate  answer 
by  cable. 

At  Salina  we  were  met  by  family  members  and  other  good 
friends.  One  hour  more  and  the  train  stopped  at  Lindsborg,  and 
there  ended  our  European  trip  this  time. 

An  hour  later  we  were  most  cordially  received  by  500  friends 
who  had  gathered  in  the  dining  room  of  the  college. 

HOME  AGAIN! 

And  this  means  hard  and  persevering  work  as  long  as  life  and 
strength  hold  out. 

What  shall  be  the  object  of  our  exertions? 

The  answer  is  simple:  We  shall  work  for  the  welfare  of  our 
people. 

What  else  shall  November  6th  remind  us  of?  What  did  he 
do  who  on  that  day,  265  years  ago,  shed  his  blood  for  others? 

If  our  Swedish  people  shall  be  able  to  fill  its  mission  as  an 
element  in  the  great  republic  it  must  live  with  open  eyes,  warm 
hearts  and  clear  consciences. 

So  far  it  has  succeeded  well  in  this  country.  This  is  first  true 
of  us  in  an  individual  capacity.  But  who  can  say  that  the  national- 
ity, as  such,  has  not  in  a  marked  degree  improved  its  general  status, 
while  it  has  won  an  enviable  reputation  as  an  important  factor  in 
the  new  nation  now  in  making. 

632 


Remember,  too,  the  Swedish-American  press.  What  an  honor 
that  is  to  us  Swedes  in  this  country.  There  is  nowhere  in  Sweden 
any  journals  edited  better,  or  with  more  care,  than  the  best  ones 
among  the  Swedish-American  papers.  The  one  who  writes  this 
is  glad,  indeed,  over  this  encouraging  fact,  for  the  influence  of  the 
press  cannot  be  overestimated. 

The  sacrifices  our  Christian  Swedish-American  people  have 
made  for  churches,  schools,  orphan  homes  and  hospitals  are,  in- 
deed, great,  and  deserving  of  the  highest  praise. 

What  will  then  the  future  be?  Such  as  we  Swedish- Americans 
make  it.    We,  cooperating  with  God,  must  shape  it. 

But  there  are  shadows  on  the  otherwise  handsome  picture. 

Selfishness,  envy,  hatred  and  other  mortal  sins  appear  too 
often  in  the  individual.  The  Swedish-American  is  not  always 
true  to  his  ancestors  in  magnanimity,  public  spirited  zeal  and 
godliness. 

Intemperance,  and  other  vices,  have  presented  a  deformed 
figure  of  the  nationality  in  some  respects  here  and  there  among 
us,  throughout  the  great  land. 

W'ithin  the  world  of  journalism  the  danger  of  sensationalism, 
invited  by  greed,  may  face  us  if  we  are  not  on  our  guard.  Let  us 
hope  that  we  shall  not  see  a  "Xew  York  Journal,"  or  a  "Xew 
York  \A'orld"  in  Swedish,  for  such  a  day  would  be  deplorable 
indeed.  The  inviolate  conscience  of  the  press  is  the  necessary 
safeguard  of  a  free  people.  It  cannot  be  denied  that  the  interest 
for  the  spiritual  side  of  life,  for  Christian  culture  and  charity  has 
decreased  considerably  of  late.  The  spirit  of  the  world,  which 
always  falls  like  a  deathly  pall  over  everything  spiritual  and  ideal, 
is  inclined  to  affect  us,  too.  Severed  by  the  claws  of  that  monster 
even  the  rich  considers  himself  too  poor  to  care  for  anything  but 
himself  and  his  earthly  treasures;  and  under  the  same  evil  spell 
the  most  penetrating  mind  is  dulled  to  that  degree  which  permits 
it  to  see  nothing  worth  living  for  but  the  evanescent  joys  of  the 
day. 

But  the  bright  redeeming  features  of  the  pictures  are  many 
and  cannot  be  darkened  by  the  shadows. 

Our  people  have,  on  a  large  scale,  risen  high  above  its  former 
level,  that  no  one  will  deny.  This  is  discernible  on  many  fields. 
But  it  has  been  done  gradually  and  slowly,  so  that  many  a  one 
who  never  goes  away  from  the  stage  of  action  cannot  notice  it. 
\Miat  I  contend  is  that  the  Swedes  in  America  are    progressing. 

635 


Our  religious  and  political  journals  are  in  many  cases  edited 
better  than  before,  which  any  one  can  see.  Many  of  our  papers 
that  not  long  ago  were  much  below  the  average  mark  have 
developed  into  respectable  journals,  and  taken  place  in  the  front 
rank.  Those  always  good  are  better,  those  very  good  before,  ex- 
cellent now.    Some  exceptions  there  are,  but  that  is  natural. 

Our  Swedish-American  colleges  are  more  advanced,  deserve 
in  a  higher  degree  their  names,  and  are  in  all  respects  superior 
to  what  they  once  were.  The  courses  are  more  thoroughgoing 
and  S}-stematical,  the  department  larger  in  number,  and  more 
adapted  to  the  needs  of  our  people,  and  the  teaching  method  more 
perfect  and  satisfactory. 

This  is  a  bright  point — the  brightest  of  them  all.  When  our 
Swedish-American  colleges  cease  to  exist,  then  we  will  also  see 
the  end  of  our  nationality  as  a  distinct  factor  in  the  body  politic. 
Neither  the  press  nor  the  church  would  be  able  to  maintain  it 
without  the  aid  of  the  schools.  The  colleges  are  of  vital  impor- 
tance to  the  perpetuity  of  the  nationality.  If  the  church  'and  the 
press  have  to  perpetuate  themselves,  then  the  best  thing  they  can 
do  is  to  assume  a  friendly  attitude  to  the  schools.  And  this  truth, 
I  think,  they  have  practically  acknowledged  long  ago. 

Our  orphan  asylums  and  hospitals  improve  rapidly.  The 
principle  of  charity  is  not  dead  among  us,  but  manifests  more  life 
than  ever. 

In  our  churches    he  pure  word  of  God  is  proclaimed  with 
power.     Our  preachers  and  ministers  are  urged  and  encouraged 
to  higher  and  deeper  studies,  to  better  preparations  for  their  ser-, 
mons,  to  the  observation  of  more  care  in  style  and  contents — and 
to  the  performance  of  the  duty  to  say  amen  at  the  proper  time. 

We  preach  nowadays  often  in  English,  too,  in  order  to  take 
care  of  the  Swedish-American  youths  who  have  distanced  them- 
selves from  the  tongue  of  our  forefathers.  And  this  is  as  it 
should  be. 

]\Iany  Swedes  begin  to  donate  considerable  sums  to  our 
schools,  our  charitable  institutions,  our  mission  work,  and  other 
general  and  public  purposes.  X'othing  can  be  more  commend- 
able than  that.  It  has  always  been  an  American  custom  to  up- 
hold causes  of  this  kind  by  private  contributions,  and  if  we  could 
induce  the  rich  and  the  well-to-do  among  ourselves  to  imitate 
the  natives  more  generally  in  this  way,  our  institutions  would 

636 


THE   ROYAt   PALACE 


THE   BANQUETING   SUITE.      "THE    WHITE   SEA,"  OK 
WHITE  MAKBLE   BALL  ROOM. 


THE   ROYAL   FALACE  :      THE  CROWN  PRINCES   SUITE  OF   APARTMENTS. 


have  no  difficulty  in  the  struggle  for  existence,  but  flourish  and 
prosper  with  greater  vitality  for  the  tasks  assumed.  . 

Hence,  good  cheer,  all  ye  faithful    and  patriotic    Swedish- 


«3 

Americans! 


Le  us  all  stand  united  for  what  is  good,  noble  and  true.  Let 
each  and  all  do  the  very  best  to  maintain  and  wider  extend  the 
good  name  and  esteem  of  the  Swedes  on  this  side  of  the  Atlantic. 
Let  us  faithfully  and  intelligently  support  and  promote  all  good 
undertakings  among  us,  for  then  the  God  of  our  ancestors  shall 
look  down  with  mercy  and  grace  upon  the  children  in  this  dis- 
tant land,  who,  though  feeble  and  failing,  still  try  to  be  like  those 
that  have  tread  the  good  path  before  them. 

The  next  Sunday  I  preached  again  in  Lindsborg's  "stone 
church,"  the  simple  but  spacious  temple  of  the  Bethany  Church. 
Just  twenty  years  earlier  I  preached  my  first  sermon  in  the  same 
church,  which  at  that  time  did  not  seat  more  than  half  the 
present  number  of  people.  The  text  was  the  same  for  both  these 
sermons,  taken  from  the  books  of  Joshua,  chapter  24,  ver.  15: 
"Choose  today  whom  ye  will  serve,  I  and  my  house  will  serve 
the  Lord."  In  the  afternoon  we  celebrated  a  simple  anniversary 
of  which- the  organ  of  the  synod,  the  Augustana,  kindly  said  this: 

"The  Bethany  congregation  in  Lindsborg,  having  celebrated 
the  twentieth  anniversary  of  the  day  when  Dr.  Swensson,  as  a  stu- 
dent, 4)reached  his  first  sermon  there,  the  Lindsborg  News  speaks 
of  the  occasion  as  one  of  the  most  pleasant  and  entertaining. 
The  remarkable  development  of  the  congregation  and  the  whole 
region  around  Lindsborg  during  these  twenty  years  is  simply 
phenomenal  and  furnishes  the  observer  not  only  a  proper  thing  to 
reflect  on,  but  also  material  for  a  very  important  chapter  in  the 
history  of  the  Kansas  conference  and  the  Augustana  synod. 
Thanks  be  to  the  Lord  for  the  success  of  His  kingdom  here  on 
earth !" 

HOME  AGAIN! 

It  is  ready.  My  flowers  have  been  tied  together  hastily,  en- 
tirely too  hastily.  Thanks,  however,  for  your  willingness  to  re- 
ceive the  wreath. 

I  have  written  partly  in  Swedish  and  partly  in  English. 

Friends  have  helped  me  by  compiling,  translating,  a.  s.  o.  A 
hearty  thanks  to  them.  The  reader  will  kindly  pardon  the  un- 
evenness  of  the  contents  and  other  things  unavoidable  in  haste. 

637 


If  I  have  been  able  in  this  simple  effort  to  say  a  good  word 
from  our  mother  Svea  to  her  children  in  this  country,  then  I 
feel  amply  rewarded. 

A  cheer  for  our  mother,  old  Sweden!  Three  cheers  tor  our 
bride,  the  young  America! 


638 


